[RBW] Re: TRP RRL vs Shimano Tiagra

[Jeffrey Arita]

@atreya: I rarely post to the RBW Owners Bunch since we no longer own any 
Rivs, but the topic of RRL vs Shimano caught my eye.

I (Jeff) am only 5' 7" with small-medium hands.  My wife (Lori) is about 
the same - 5' 5" with small-ish hands (PBHs in the high 70's, low 80's).  
Back in the mid-2010's we rode standard road-racing type drop bars.  With 
small-ish hands, we gravitated toward the TRP RRLs since they were a bit 
more 'ergo' and made braking easier.  We rode these levers on singles as 
well as our tandem.  Everything pretty much okay.

Flash-forward to 2020 or thereabouts and I bought a Black Mountain Cycles 
Monster Cross.  I decided to go with the latest-craze gravel-type drop bar 
handlebars, eventually landing on the Ritchey Beacons 
.  The 
Beacons definitely are funky looking and from an aesthetic view can be 
described as ugly.  They are simply drop bar handlebars where they've been 
flared out *dramatically *[36 degrees!].  

The Beacons (as well as other gravel bars on the market) have relatively 
short reach and shallow drop.  Upon placing any kind of road handlebar 
brake lever on them, it provides (in our humble opinion) much improved 
ergonomic use of the lever (any lever).  Again, note, both of us have 
small-ish hands and the combined cockpit allows comfortable spots on every 
part of the handlebar.  The short reach + shallow drop + ease of braking is 
there.  Strange, but one of the most comfortable spots is deep in the drops 
because it isn't too much of a reach - yet working the lever is easier (vs. 
the traditional road bars).

In 2023 we decided to change out all of our road-type handlebars to the 
Beacons.  We used them on our bicycle tourers and for PBP.  Interesting, 
but simply modifying the *angle *where the brake lever sits, it definitely 
helps out.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/YBMwTzR6hCK7NNcL9

Best regards,

Jeff & Lori
Claremont, CA

On Friday, May 17, 2024 at 5:58:26 PM UTC-7 atreya...@gmail.com wrote:

> Folks, 
> Want to give drop bars one more time on my homer. 
>
>  Long background and context , I had drop bars set up TRP RRL but never 
> got comfortable . But I think it had do more with the reach. I had around 
> set back and 7 cm stem . Also I have short torso and long legs. I am 5'8.5 
> but have pbh of 86.5 . Out of curosity I tried Knee over pedal spindle with 
> plumb bob. On my homer I had to set it up with zero set back and push 
> saddle forward. ( interestingly same thing on my Atlantis translates to 
> around 20 mm set back , didn't realize .5 degree change in seat tube could 
> make such difference ). More importantly with  this saddle position it 
> feels like my reach has significantly increased. I can comfortably reach 6 
> -7 cm beyond hooks of albatross set up on 100 mm Nitto faceplater. So I am 
> thinking of trying 52 cm noodles with 7cm stem. 
>
> I like aesthetics of Shimano better than RRL . So folks who have used 
> both? Is there a difference in performance and comfort , to make the 
> upgrade worth it. Also looks like ramps on RRL are longer, does it add to 
> the reach? . My priority is in the following order 1. Comfort 2. Braking 
> performance 3. Asthetics 4. Price. 
>
> I would really appreciate your experience and insights. Happy weekend !
>

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[RBW] Re: I bought my 52cm Rivendell Bicycle Works Clem Smith Jr. "L" bicycle in RBW Blue

[Jeffrey Arita]

Kim!!

Congrats on getting your better-fitting Riv!!  Wear out those drivetrain 
parts, wearing a huge grin!

All the Best,

Jeff & Lori Arita
Claremont, CA

On Monday, November 6, 2023 at 4:03:26 PM UTC-8 Kim H. wrote:

> Today, I am very happy to report that I found and bought my 52cm Rivendell 
> Bicycle Works Clem Smith Jr. "L" bicycle in RBW Blue that I have been 
> searching for. It was a demo at RBW headquarters in Walnut Creek. Will 
> Keating helped me with the sale after he sent me pictures of the bike for 
> my approval. My search is over. 
>
> Needless to say, I am very excited. It should be arriving at my home by 
> the end of the week.
>
> Anyone wanting to buy a 59cm lime olive Clem Smith Jr. "L" complete 
> bicycle ? 
>
> After, I get all of my componentry off of my lime olive Clem over onto my 
> blue Clem, I will have a complete 59cm Clem "L" for sale. The reason why I 
> am selling, it is the frame is too large for me too handle. 
>
> I will no longer be green. I will be a lovely shade of azure blue.
>
> Kim Hetzel.[image: clem52-2.jpg][image: clem52-3.jpg]
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Boise to San Francisco bicycle route

[Jeffrey Arita]

We rode the TransAmerica route in 2016, starting from Astoria, Oregon, EB 
to Yorktown, VA.  You could start from Boise heading WB, connecting to the 
TransAm route near Austin, Oregon (I saw some red heat maps along Highway 
26, starting at Vale, Oregon on ridewithgps).  Then head WB on the TransAm 
to the coast.  There is a fantastic hostel in Mitchell, Oregon (Spoke'N 
Hostel).  They will even *drive *you up to see the painted hills!  The 
stretch from Sisters, Oregon to McKenzie Pass is otherworldly (no 
spoilers).  Definitely worth doing at least once.  Since you are headed WB, 
you will have one heckuva downhill from McKenzie Pass.  You will reach the 
west coast and then connect to the Pacific Coast route SB to SF.  The capes 
along the Oregon Coast are beautiful.  Redwoods in Northern California.  
Coastal views are beautiful.  Source is Adventure Cycling Association 
(ACA).  Their hard-copy maps leave much to be desired but they more often 
than not have valuable information (water, food, lodging/camping).

The other option is find a way to ACA's 'Western Express' (WE) route.  We 
rode part of the WE in June (Carson City, NV to Cedar City, UT).  The 
primary problem is finding suitable water sources and carrying enough food 
for several days?  We aren't familiar with Highway 95 SB, so it could be 
dodgy with tractor trailers.  Also, dependng upon season, south of 
Winnemucca along Grass Valley Road could be difficult (water, heat, wind) 
before you actually connect to the WE (loneliest highway in the US).  The 
prevailing winds are from the west, so you would be likely heading into a 
headwind.  On one of our (EB) segments (Carson City -> Fallon) we had a 
fantastic tailwind + it was slightly downhill: it only took us 4H 2M to 
cover 61 miles fully loaded. 

Have fun!

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Monday, October 23, 2023 at 3:07:37 PM UTC-7 Jim S. wrote:

> Hi, I understand that I can use Google or other sources to research a 
> preferable route. But I was wondering if anyone in the group has done all 
> or part of this ride? I"d be curious about routes you chose, etc. 
>
> Thank you for any ideas.
>

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[RBW] Re: Tire Recommendations

[Jeffrey Arita]

+2 for Panaracer GravelKing tires (smooth tread and "SS" and "SK" models 
(up to 700 x 43 size so far).  Have tried some RH models.  Panaracer GK's 
are 'close to good enough' at half the price vs. RH in our opinion.

Currently riding Panaracer GK smooth treads in US & France - approx. 1,700 
miles so far.

Good luck,

Jeff
On Wednesday, August 9, 2023 at 9:04:16 PM UTC+2 Matthew Williams wrote:

> Hi everyone, 
>
> I need a new set of durable-ish, puncture-resistant tires.
>
> Type of ride: Mostly long-distance rides on asphalt and concrete, and the 
> occasional gravel or dirt path. 
>
> Size: 700 x 50
>
> Dealbreakers: I use tubes, and all-black sidewalls. No gumwalls or stripes!
>
> I’m curretly looking at these two Schwalbe options:
>
> G-One Overland:
> https://www.schwalbetires.com/Schwalbe-G-One-Overland-11654399
>
> Hurricane:
> https://www.schwalbetires.com/Hurricane-11159185
>
> Does anyone have experience with either of these tires? Are these good 
> options? Or, can you make a recommendation for another tire that would work 
> for me?
>
> As always, your experience, wisdom, and advice are welcomed and 
> appreciated.
>

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[RBW] Re: Patch or Replace a Tire?

[Jeffrey Arita]

Matthew,

You could try patching the tire.  I've used Rema's TT13 Tubeless Repair Kit 
(sorry, can't post hyperlink as we're away from home).

We were on a bike packing trip in the middle of nowhere when my wife sliced 
her sidewall on a sharp square rock.  Sealant wouldn't repair the long cut 
- as expected.  Ended up removing the tire, emptying the remaining sealant 
(yes, messy), cleaning the area of the sidewall cut, applying the patch AND 
installing a tube.  The tube ended up actually helping to meld the patch to 
the inside of the tire since it was compressing the two together.  
Obviously the patch prevented the tube from bulging to the outside.

Might be worth a try since that SK is practically brand new.

Also: since you may have run over other bits of glass I would suggest you 
inspect both tires: tiny shards may have embedded themselves into the 
tires.  They could slowly work themselves thru the tread, eventually 
puncturing the tube(s).  One way to check is to chuck each wheel into a 
wheel stand, deflate the tire completely then pinch the tire and carefully 
examine the entire circumference. I typically start at the valve stem and 
go all the way around.  Have a pick or small tweezers handy to pick out any 
of the shards or other debris embedded.  A powerful headlamp helps too.

Good luck,

Jeff

On Thursday, August 3, 2023 at 7:59:17 AM UTC+2 Matthew Williams wrote:

> As I was riding this evening, I saw shards of broken glass glittering in 
> the beam of my headlight but I wasn’t able to swerve out of the way. I 
> heard a small pop as my front wheel ran over the glass, then a loud 
> hiss-isss-isss-isss as the tube deflated and I rolled to a stop.
>
> “No problem,” I thought. “I’m only a block from home, and I can test the 
> patch kit I’ve been carrying.” At home, I removed the wheel and unmounted 
> the tire. The hole in the tube was about seven millimeters wide and I’d 
> already patched the tube twice, so I installed a new tube—but when I 
> remounted it and pumped up the tire, I saw the new tube was poking through 
> the hole in the tire! 
>
> On a car, a tire shop could simply install a patch on the inside of the 
> tire, but I’m wondering if the damage to the tire is too extensive to 
> repair. The tires (Panaracer Gravelking SKs) are nearly new and have fewer 
> than 100 miles on them—they still have the little “new tire hairs” and that 
> white waxy stuff.
>
> What’s the wisdom on this sort of tire damage? Can the tire be 
> patched—and if so, how? Or, do I need a new tire?
>
> As always, your wisdom, advice, and experience are greatly appreciated.
>
> [image: IMG_3219.jpg][image: IMG_3217.jpg]
>

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[RBW] Re: To trade or sell or improve, my 50cm 1988 Bridgestone MB-1

[Jeffrey Arita]

Lee,

I will share our experiences: we bought his/her 90's era Trek 930 ATBs 
during the pandemic as project bikes.  They both had close-to-level top 
tubes, much like your MB-1.  I ended up buying a pair of 
threaded-to-threadless stem adapters and then installing shorter (and 
upright) threadless stems to both raise and shorten the reach.  Be advised 
the specific Treks we had required a slightly larger diameter adapter vs. 
the more common 22.2mm (quill) diameter.  Measure your existing quill stem 
and perhaps order the appropriate sized adapter.  The adapters use the 
almost standard 9/8" diameter size to attach threadless stems.

Good luck,

Jeff

On Monday, July 3, 2023 at 3:42:44 PM UTC-4 Lee T wrote:

> Hi folks,
>
> I've had this MB-1 since 2007 when I lived in the desert in California. 
> I'm its second owner. I don't ride it very much and it's taking up a lot of 
> space in my studio apartment, lol. I wanted a Susie Longbolts but couldn't 
> afford it, and purchased a lovely Clem "L" large off this list a year ago 
> and really love it. I also have a Bianchi San Jose singlespeed 58cm already.
>
> My MB-1s a 50cm and the geometry really annoys me. I have to lean way too 
> far over to reach the handlebars, plus i wonder if the frame is too small. 
> I mostly do singletrack on my Clem with 2.3 Thunder Burt tires. I live in 
> Brooklyn so it's hard to find as many mountain bike opportunities anyway 
> beyond stealth city park biking. 
>
> I coveted the Susie Longbolts/Wolbis Slugstone but wonder how different it 
> would really be from my Clem. In any case, I've been trying to figure out 
> if I should just sell the MB-1 or if I should get some north road bars or 
> something and try those? As far as I know, I have almost all the original 
> parts on the bike minus the seat, so maybe I should sell this to someone 
> for whom this is their dream bike and just be thankful I have two nice 
> bikes already? Not sure!
>
> Thanks for any opinions.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Stolen custom 1995 Rivendell Road Standard (San Francisco)

[Jeffrey Arita]

First, so sorry to hear about your loss

As Bill S asks, was your bike on bikeindex.com?

I purchased a Trek 520 via my local CL.  It was in pretty good shape after 
I examined it.  I wanted to find out what year it was so I googled the SN.  
It popped up on bikeindex.com as being stolen.  Long story short: I 
returned the bike to it's rightful owner.  Good Karma.

All the Best,

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Wednesday, June 21, 2023 at 11:03:19 PM UTC-7 Adrianna T wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> With a sad face I’m writing to say all the bikes in my building got stolen 
> today, including my beloved Riv. 
>
> Some of you helped me plan and figure out how to build it up some time 
> ago. 
>
> This is what it ended up looking like: 
>
> If you come across any of it (including just the frame) I’d be very glad 
> to hear from you. 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB Nitto Technomic 190mm stem & more

[Jeffrey Arita]

Hi Michael,

PM sent.

Best regards,

Jeff Arita
Claremont, CA

On Monday, May 22, 2023 at 11:40:50 AM UTC-7 Michael Baquerizo wrote:

> Looking to put together a riv style bike for my mom, belated birthday and 
> mothers day gift.
>
> Hoping to do so on a budget, already cleared out my parts bin for the same 
> gift for my father.
>
>
>- I'm hoping a  Technomic (the 190mm height) comes in the not deluxe 
>finish, only for $$ savings. Otherwise looking for the deluxe version 190 
>height, 120 length. Either size as I have a shim.
>- Riv Cork Grips, not drilled out for bar ends
>- Pedals, monarch. Condition doesn't matter as long as they spin
>- 26" tires, open to options, although ideally they are gum or tan 
>walls. thinking 2.1 +
>- Happy to buy budget versions of these online, but if anyone has a 
>bikes worth of v brakes and their appropriate levers, id be interested. 
>- Potentially interested in a b17 S, color doesnt matter too much 
>(although classic only, not the funky stuff)
>
> Thanks in advance, hopefully I can help clear out your unwanted goods.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Dynamo Wiring inside the Fork and Frame?

[Jeffrey Arita]

Matthew,

Thank you for your post and your successful update.  This inspired me to 
try.

I have been successful for two different forks - one a modern Soma road 
bike fork and the other a mid-90's Trek Multitrack fork.  Used a bright 
yellow insulated 22 ga. stranded wire to fish with.  Was able to use a 
combo of a single wire strand from a discarded brake cable to 'hook' the 
wire out of the second hole or a very fine set of tweezers to grab it.  
Yes, lots of patience and pushing and pulling to see where that darn wire 
was.

I used (new) B double strand wire for the connections.  Removed about 1" 
of insulation from the B and removed about 1.5" of insulation from the 
yellow fish wire.  Twisted the stranded wires together to form a good 
decent bond.  *Gently *pushed and pulled the assembly through.  Lots of 
patience.

*Note: Like you I physically removed both forks from the bikes - yes lots 
of disassembly and time!   Mounted each fork in a vise for stability and a 
powerful flashlight. Was it worth it?  I think so.*

Best regards,

Jeff
Claremont, CA  



On Sunday, November 20, 2022 at 10:13:40 PM UTC-8 Matthew Williams wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> Most bikes I see with the SON dynamo have the wire wound around the right 
> front fork blade. I want to run the wire inside the fork using the small 
> hole near the dropout. 
>
> I’ve already fished a thin wire through the fork as a leader i.e. I can 
> attach the leader to the SON dynamo wire and pull it through the fork, 
> unless the dynamo wire is too thick. Below are photos of the leader wire I 
> fished through the fork. 
>
> Is this possible, or is it a bad idea? Has anyone here managed to achieve 
> this setup? If so, how did you do it, and please post photos of your 
> internal wiring setups!
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Bike route mapping & guidance app for iPhone

[Jeffrey Arita]

Patrick,

One caveat: if you want the verbal (voice) turn-by-turn feature that 
ridewithgps offers (for routes), then you will need to pay for either a 
Basic or Premium subscription.  The free version does not offer this 
specific feature:

https://support.ridewithgps.com/hc/en-us/articles/4419572706971-Turn-by-Turn-Navigation

Ask me how I know ;)

We finally upgraded to the Premium subscription, primarily because that 
level enables one to 'archive' routes (we have many, many routes and they 
grow as time moves forward).  Archiving routes enables one to 'activate' 
only those routes one wants to (perhaps) synchronize to their desired gps 
standalone device (without having to scroll through dozens and dozens of 
irrelevent routes).  

Just wanted to offer a different perspective.

Good luck,

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Monday, May 1, 2023 at 4:52:39 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Many thanks all; the unanimous and very quick agreement on Ridewithgps 
> speaks well of it and I'lll check it out.
>
> On Mon, May 1, 2023 at 11:56 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> Thanks to the car-centric development of this our Southwestern city we 
>> often have destinations only a few miles away that you can't ride to on 
>> direct, paved routes. OTOH, thanks to our extensive dirt trails, there are 
>> often off-road workarounds that, if they add 50% or more to the total 
>> distance are pleasant to ride -- and after all, one rides for pleasure; or 
>> I hope one does.
>>
>> I have to take a computer in to a shop tomorrow. By 6-lane boulevard and 
>> resulting horrible intersections it's 3.3 miles, but per Google maps there 
>> is apparently a combined residential street-cum-dirt trail route that can 
>> get me there.
>>
>> The trouble is that it's complicated enough that I have a hard time 
>> following it on my 42" professional screen. Also, I am rather "spatially 
>> dyslexic:" I don't easily comprehend spatial directions, relations, and 
>> distances -- generally I painstakingly work out complicated routes on a 
>> verbal instruction sheet.
>>
>> I cannot use Google Maps or on a 2" iPhone screen.
>>
>> But: is there some miracle phone app that will, say, let you pick out 
>> such a route on a big screen and transfer it to a phone where the app will 
>> walk you through the turns and distances?
>>
>> Otherwise, I'll stick to writing out route marker lists.
>>
>> Aside: When I drive with my daughter, she gauged routes using Siri to 
>> operate a direction app that would nag you to turn in "100 yards" or what 
>> have you. But (1) I will *not* talk to a ddogamned machine, and (2) the 
>> routes in question involve paths that I expect are not inside Google or 
>> Apple systems.
>>
>> Patrick Moore, who from time to time revisits Robin Williams very funny 
>> Siri putdown on Ellen DeGeneres.
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Lighter than your Platypus

[Jeffrey Arita]

This entire thread fondly reminds me of "It's A Walk Off" contest from 
*Zoolander*:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sbnCoQ75RuM=95s

One of the first *true (yes, **non-fictional*) accounts of male modeling.  
Gotta love all the models, along with Billy Zane and David Bowie.  

Enjoy,

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Saturday, April 29, 2023 at 6:55:25 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Ok I'll cut to the chase: What is the point of the threads? They seem to 
> be a shot at the Platypus on a Riv forum in favor of two non-Rivs, and 
> frankly they seem directed at a particular person. I've done my best to 
> remain unserious about the whole affair but I'm kinda stumped on what the 
> purpose of this was.  
>
> On Saturday, April 29, 2023 at 6:38:35 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Just for the record -- as the one who started all this nonsense -- I 
>> don't fret about weight, well, with one exception, below; and I weighed the 
>> Matthews only on a momentary impulse of curiosity; the Monocog followed as 
>> a kind of academic investigation.
>>
>> In fact, I fret mildly about weight only for one bike, and that is the 
>> 1999 Joe Starck Gofast Fixie Custom Road; and even on that one I chose most 
>> parts for performance or looks instead of weight -- Dura Ace SPDs instead 
>> of Look KEOS or Speedplay X-1s, Phil hubs, DA GA 200 crank with 52 ring, 
>> Surly Dingle. The only chi chi light part is (I blush to admit) a titanium 
>> stem bolt. 18 lb even. The SA TF hubs adds 11 oz and the TC much more 
>> again, an amount I've not bothered to register.
>>
>> All my other bikes were built without regard for weight and range from 
>> the 28 lb Matthews #2, clone of 2003 Curt Riv Road custom with SA AM hub, 
>> to the 32 lb Matthews #1 and the Monocog at 32.25 -- all of these weighed 
>> with full kit bags of 2 or 3 lb each.
>>
>> On Sat, Apr 29, 2023 at 6:54 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>
>>> Leah: I laughed my head off. For an increasingly silly thread, you 
>>> certainly capped it all. 
>>>
>>> OTOH, I could see you struggling to lift those behemoths.
>>>
>>> Long ago, when my daughter was 5 or 6 (she will, God willing, turn 22 in 
>>> early June), I would be horsing around and playing the fool, and she would 
>>> say, very earnestly and emphatically: "Daddy! Be *sewious!*" I begin to 
>>> understand her sentiment.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sat, Apr 29, 2023 at 2:38 PM Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! <
>>> jonasa...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
 I had to respond to you in my favorite medium, Patrick. Video. I’ll 
 include the link below, since the file is too big. It’s on my Instagram, 
 which I’ve set to public for now, but hurry and watch before I switch it 
 back to private.

 I am making it my new favorite thing to take these classy Rivendells 
 and set them to edgy, tacky hit music in Reels. The purists will ask for 
 the ban hammer. The rest of you will hopefully laugh. This video is 
 entirely in response to these silly threads.
 Leah
 https://www.instagram.com/reel/CrohxSlgzAY/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

 On Tuesday, April 25, 2023 at 8:05:57 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> 2016 Matthews "road bike for dirt" at 31.99 lb with full generous kit 
> in frame bag, which also contains the capacitor and switching box for the 
> K-Lite. 
>
> Dynamo lighting f and r, fenders of 2X thicker than your Honjos, with 
> 2X thicker struts, rear rack, cages, and pedals. Not bad at all 
> considering 
> that the bag with its contents probably weighs close to 4 lb. 
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
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>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>>> ---
>>> Patrick Moore
>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>>
>>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Homer Hilsen: Braking performance

[Jeffrey Arita]

@Jason Fuller:

Good question on which handlebar type are we setting the brake lever with 
(TRP RRL + Tektro 559).  We've become big fans of Ritchey Logic "Beacon" 
drop type gravel bars (here 
).
  
They have 36 degrees of flare - some folks might find it severe while 
others find it ergonomic.  For us, very easy to brake from either the hoods 
or the drops (the severe flare places the brake levers in a much more ergo 
position).  Combine the short reach and shallow drop, it makes it comfy (at 
least for us) in either position (along with the other available positions).

Best regards,

Jeff & Lori
Claremont, CA

On Wednesday, April 26, 2023 at 4:18:50 PM UTC-7 Jason Fuller wrote:

> What handlebar type are you setting it up with?  If going with a bar that 
> uses MTB style levers such as Albatross, I would be much less concerned, 
> because you have much better ergonomic mechanical advantage at the lever 
> vs. being on the hoods of a drop bar lever.  I don't believe you'll have 
> any issue, and if you did, you could rectify with either better pads or 
> going to Paul Racers as mentioned. Then you're certainly well set up for 
> mountains - after all Jan Heine prefers centerpulls over other types of 
> brakes for his wet, mountain pass-heavy and mixed surface riding. 
>
> On Wednesday, 26 April 2023 at 01:27:52 UTC-7 Hoch in ut wrote:
>
>> I’m window shopping for the next project and was interested in the Homer. 
>> Great looking frame. My only concern is the brakes. I live in a pretty 
>> mountainous area. Meaning plenty of long, fast descents. 
>>
>> Those of you with Homers, how have you liked or disliked the brakes? Do 
>> the 559’s give you adequate performance to descend with confidence? One 
>> thing I do like about caliper brakes are how easy they are to set up and 
>> adjust. 
>> Thanks for any input. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Homer Hilsen: Braking performance

[Jeffrey Arita]

I will chime in here: my wife and I ride singles equipped with the Tektro 
559s.  Both bikes use TRP RRL brake levers, so there might be the rub.  
Brake pads all around are Kool Stop salmon pads.  We just completed a 600k 
brevet this past weekend with lots of ups and lots of downs (15k+ of 
elevation gain).  Several of the really steep downhills were on the last 
day - in darkness and speed control (with lots of potholes) was not a 
concern. One frameset is a Soma Pescadero and the other is an older Soma 
Extra Smoothie (both steel frames & forks).  [we used to be Riv AHH & BF 
owners].

Hoch - as you've indicated, they are also extremely easy to set up and 
adjust.

Best regards,

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Wednesday, April 26, 2023 at 1:27:52 AM UTC-7 Hoch in ut wrote:

> I’m window shopping for the next project and was interested in the Homer. 
> Great looking frame. My only concern is the brakes. I live in a pretty 
> mountainous area. Meaning plenty of long, fast descents. 
>
> Those of you with Homers, how have you liked or disliked the brakes? Do 
> the 559’s give you adequate performance to descend with confidence? One 
> thing I do like about caliper brakes are how easy they are to set up and 
> adjust. 
> Thanks for any input. 
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB Sinewave Cycles Beacon 2 Dynamo Light, or reviews

[Jeffrey Arita]

We've got two (his/her) Beacon V.1's.  Purchased 1st quarter 2017.  Both 
worked okay until one of them has issues with all of the LEDs firing up 
upon faster speeds.  Worked with the Owner and he stands behind his 
products.  Around that same time I asked him if he were going to consider 
making a focused lens option (StVZO).  At that time he (unfortunately) said 
'no.'  IMHO, if he were to do so, he could sell a lot of these units to 
randonneurs and cyclotourists alike.

The Version 1 works quite well.  At low speeds only 1 or 2 of the LEDs 
light up.  As speed increases, the third LED lights up.  The lens is 
unfocused, so it is pretty decent if you are off-road on dirt roads.  The 
USB output is integrated into the chassis (obviously power limited via the 
dynamo).  There is a second way to power up the light - you simply plug in 
a USB power source - excellent when you get to a campground after dark and 
you need to light up your camping spot (or if you want to power the light 
without the dynamo).  Well thought-out.  If only there was a StVZO lens 
*option*, I think it would be perfect.

Note: the USB power output is power limited by the dynamo (not the device 
itself).  We have had trouble trying to charge late-model smartphones since 
they are quite power-hungry.  It is probably better to try and charge a 
battery bank (pass-thru or not) vs. the smartphone itself (in  our 
experience).  The dynamo + Beacon *does *re-charge small-ish GPS devices 
quite well such as Wahoo BOLTs and ROAMs. 

Best regards,

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Tuesday, April 18, 2023 at 3:41:05 PM UTC-7 brizbarn wrote:

> Anyone have a Sinewave Cycles Beacon 2 Dynamo Light they want to sell?  Or 
> has anyone used it, and care to share their thoughts?  My dynamo light 
> broke and can't be fixed, and I have a Sinewave Reactor dynamo charger that 
> I use to charge my iPhone or other USB things.  I figured I'd combine the 
> two to declutter things a bit with the Beacon Light.

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[RBW] Re: WTB Rambouillet 54 or Bleriot 55

[Jeffrey Arita]

Hi Mike,

PM Sent,

Best regards,

Jeff Arita
Claremont, CA

On Wednesday, March 22, 2023 at 4:03:32 PM UTC-7 mike naranjo wrote:

> Hi Everyone,
>
> I realize this may be a long shot, but please let me know if you have any 
> leads on a Rambouillet in a size 54 or a Bleriot in a size 55.  Thank you!
>
> Best,
>
> Mike
>

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Re: [RBW] Hozan Bottom Bracket Tapping Tool

[Jeffrey Arita]

JohnS - outstanding work and gorgeous frame!

Way to use what you got!

Best regards,

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Friday, March 24, 2023 at 11:11:44 AM UTC-7 JohnS wrote:

> Jeff, good point, a BB tapping tool would come in handy for the types of 
> bikes I work on, just to chase the threads and make it that much easier to 
> work on them.
> Bill, I considered a LBS but talked myself out of it for a few reasons. 
> There use to be one about a mile from my house, super convenient, knew the 
> staff, very helpful. Unfortunately a few years ago it became a Trek shop, 
> different management, different vibe. More recently they moved, so I don't 
> even think about them any more as an option. Also this time of year is when 
> people take their bikes to the shop for a tune up, so I would have had to 
> wait. Better to buy or make a tool to solve the problem.
>
> I was successful after making a couple variations of the thread chasing 
> tool as was shown in the u-tube video Garth provided. It did take a time 
> and a dental pick to get the threads cleaned out. They weren't crossed 
> threaded after all, just something which was very hard, maybe thread lock 
> or dried grease/gunk, I'm not sure which. The first iteration was to use 
> the Dremel cut off wheel to make slots across the threads of a sealed BB 
> cartridge. That cleared the threads on another frame, but did not budge the 
> Sequoia's threads. I figured the threads were too soft for the task, so I 
> did the same to loose ball BB cups since they are a harder steel. I also 
> bolted the drive side cup onto a 1/2 threaded rod so that I could turn it 
> with a wrench (see picture). I installed the left side cup to help the tool 
> stay aligned with the threads. This worked very well with a lot of oil and 
> back and forth turning of the tool. I was able to turn it in almost all of 
> the way in. I then removed the tool and checked the threads. This is when I 
> saw the hardened material in the threads and started to use the dental pick 
> to scratch it out. I then used the tool a couple of more times to get all 
> of the material out. Now I can thread a cup or sealed cartridge in by hand.
>
> The project is a '92 Specialized Sequoia, lugged frame, great shape, 
> purchased from list member Eric L a couple of weeks ago. Converting it from 
> 27" to 700c will allow 32mm tires and will replace my Surly Pacer as my 
> club ride bike. A classic sport/touring rig. Riv content: somewhere, 
> someone said, Grant was quoted as saying it was the best bike he had 
> ridden, or something along those lines, at the time of the interview.
>
> Thanks again Garth for the video, it really helped!
> JohnS
>
> On Thursday, March 23, 2023 at 11:05:11 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> I would think that if you brought a frame to a shop with the right tool, 
>> that shop should be able to chase your fixed cup in under 15 minutes.  At 
>> $2 a minute, that should be $30 or less.  I can't imagine that you could 
>> make a suitable home made tool for under $30 of headache.  There's got to 
>> be a good shop in the eastern half of PA.  
>>
>> I'd love to have a set of quality BB chasing (and facing) tools in my 
>> possession, but haven't pulled the trigger on the expense.  For work of 
>> that type, I pay Mike Varley, which is a 80-minute drive, but it's always 
>> worth the trip.  
>>
>> BL in EC
>>
>> On Thursday, March 23, 2023 at 10:25:21 AM UTC-7 JohnS wrote:
>>
>>> Rich, thank you for the offer, but I'm in eastern PA, so a road trip to 
>>> mid-Iowa isn't in the cards.
>>>
>>> Garth, thank you for the u2-video, that was very informative. I've got 
>>> some extra BB cups that I can sacrifice to become tools, so I'll give that 
>>> a try with a lot of caution.
>>>
>>> Eric, I'll probably go with the Hozan tools if the home made version 
>>> doesn't work out.
>>>
>>> John
>>> On Thursday, March 23, 2023 at 11:05:30 AM UTC-4 Eric Daume wrote:
>>>
 No experience with the taps, but in my experience I would pick a Hozan 
 tool over a Park. Park tools just seem so-so to me. 

 On Thursday, March 23, 2023, JohnS  wrote:

> Anyone have experience with the Hozan BB tapping tool? My '82 
> Specialized Sequoia drive side treads have been cross threaded and need 
> to 
> be tapped. Park tool is too expensive for me. 
>
>
> 

Re: [RBW] Hozan Bottom Bracket Tapping Tool

[Jeffrey Arita]

JohnS: Sorry, late to the party: yes, I've got a set of the Hozan's you 
mention.  They've worked well in many BB shells (I've caught and released a 
fair number of frames).  Yes, they aren't cheap but they do the job.  I was 
advised to use Tap Magic PROTAP cutting fluid whenever using taps/dies by 
folks on the iBobs.

I've found some BB shells to be ever so slightly undersized, while others 
simply have some grease/crap/corrosion in the threads.  Just 3 days ago I 
bought an old Trek Multitrack bike (I think '96 MUSA frameset).  Tore it 
down and it became obvious the owner kept it housed in a garage.  
Everything removed easily and the BB shell was pristine (quite unusual).  
Chasing the threads I could simply turn the Hozan taps *by hand* (I 
normally have to use a pretty big adjustable wrench).  YMMV.

I normally start at the BB shell and then work around all the other 
threaded bits on the frame and fork (M5s for braze-ons, M6's for cantilever 
studs, M10 on the derailleur hanger).  Generally makes reassembly 
straightforward and drama-free (boring).

Good luck,

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Thursday, March 23, 2023 at 10:25:21 AM UTC-7 JohnS wrote:

> Rich, thank you for the offer, but I'm in eastern PA, so a road trip to 
> mid-Iowa isn't in the cards.
>
> Garth, thank you for the u2-video, that was very informative. I've got 
> some extra BB cups that I can sacrifice to become tools, so I'll give that 
> a try with a lot of caution.
>
> Eric, I'll probably go with the Hozan tools if the home made version 
> doesn't work out.
>
> John
> On Thursday, March 23, 2023 at 11:05:30 AM UTC-4 Eric Daume wrote:
>
>> No experience with the taps, but in my experience I would pick a Hozan 
>> tool over a Park. Park tools just seem so-so to me. 
>>
>> On Thursday, March 23, 2023, JohnS  wrote:
>>
>>> Anyone have experience with the Hozan BB tapping tool? My '82 
>>> Specialized Sequoia drive side treads have been cross threaded and need to 
>>> be tapped. Park tool is too expensive for me. 
>>>
>>>
>>> https://www.ebay.com/itm/354072136754?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110013%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIMRXI%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D247483%26meid%3D265aab9e5c174a48a713dd81a11fcfd5%26pid%3D101110%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D24%26sd%3D40417089%26itm%3D354072136754%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DPersonalizedV1_7%26brand%3DHOZAN&_trksid=p2047675.c101110.m2109=cksum%3A354072136754265aab9e5c174a48a713dd81a11fcfd5%7Cenc%3AAQAH8KvVpLM%252FL%252FYbyLgq7kTmGAaB383Ythl3%252BULNz4mWdQZjQUGEBVScEzldt9pDIEwjVC9sgwCeV0gMCq3ICdfjOxVov5C3psDxws5xIkFsJd%252Bofy%252FVssNxE9YaNOke2Niw2FTLCIMN3jpraIuhLLGVWQakcU7%252FnAeSW4OR0OgcLdP0nb94Y17R90GxjWo1PpW2LR2XFF5A4NVsqQlH2ZBBBTbJp2KMYAroLUIWVLPKGDkNuJgnWaX9dIe4yRn56VtU1hM99PVpuuDhd4m%252BuiA1R9j68SiVyItHNLsJfVSMlHG5JzoQ1Tddgih52SA1NrDosw%253D%253D%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2047675=5019983455
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> JohnS
>>>
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>>> 
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>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: WTT: Nitto Noodle for your Spank Flare 25 Degree bars

[Jeffrey Arita]

Max,

PM sent.

Best regards,

Jeff Arita
Claremont, CA

On Monday, March 6, 2023 at 8:20:30 AM UTC-8 maxcr wrote:

> I'm looking to explore some flared dropbar action on one of my builds - as 
> the title says, I what to trade my Noodle for your Spank Flare 25 Degree 
> bar, ideally in 50 or 52cm width.  
>
> My Nitto Noodle is a 46, it's in great condition and I'll throw in a set 
> of basic Shimano brake levers (Tiagra) to make up for the price dif.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Max in Boston.
>

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[RBW] Re: Bikepacking Essentials: On Finding Goldilocks

[Jeffrey Arita]

@John Rinker:

For your GD loadout, it amazes me how much bikepackers have in common: our 
list matches *almost *verbatim - down to the Sea to Summit eVent drybags 
(and no, I'm pretty sure we didn't memo each other before heading out).  
The make and model of other items might be different, but you get the 
idea.  The 'essentials' are remarkably the same.  We, too are huge 
believers in wool!!  A couple of things stood out, at least for us: we did 
not bring dedicated cameras/equipment (used smartphones) or fishing gear 
(we should have, in retrospect).  But, 99% the same.  

We did the GD in 2017 NoBo (depart from Puerto Palomas/Columbus).  We left 
in July and ran out of season upon getting to Butte, MT (snow).  Hit pause 
and restarted from Butte in July 2018.  Life-changing, to say the least.  
That is, so far, the only route I would do again in a heartbeat.  So 
gorgeous.

We too had a Big Agnes CopperSpur tent (loved it) but we actually *wore *it 
out (it was used extensively until late last year - zippers failing).  I 
love wearing out stuff.  We liked to call it a big mosquito net ;).  We 
just got a  Durston X-Mid Pro 2 tent a few days ago.  Goodness gracious!  
Talk about light!  We'll see how durable that tent is  Heading to the 
UK, France (PBP-bound) and Spain this summer.  Then South America (Santiago 
to Ushuaia) in November.  Back home by early April?

Like you said, the variables change, so the Goldilocks list can be elusive!

Best regards,

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Wednesday, March 1, 2023 at 3:44:31 PM UTC-8 John Rinker wrote:

> Moving this over from Johnny's 'Fitting the Hunqapillar' thread and in 
> response to Jay's inquiry about my essential packing list for touring. 
>
> Of course, some of it depends on the nature of the tour itself: climate, 
> remoteness, and goals for the trip. For example, on the Great Divide, I 
> packed my tenkara rod and for the Cabo loop, I swapped it out for a mask 
> and snorkel. When I rode the Annapurna Circuit I didn't pack shelter or 
> kitchen as I stayed in tea houses and ate dahl bat. 
>
> As examples, here are packing lists from the two very different trips 
> mentioned above. 
>
> The Great Divide (2018) 
> 
>
> The Cabo Loo (2023) 
> 
>
> Sadly, the photos are the same, but the Cabo Loop list is more 
> representative of what I've learned that I'd rather not be without on any 
> journey. 
>
> The clothing in the Great Divide list was basically cut in half before I 
> left- where there are 2s, I kept 1. I did retain both pairs of sandals- a 
> small luxury after a long day in the saddle. Neither did I end up carrying 
> so many water bottles, and I have since swapped out the MSR gravity filter 
> for a Steri-Pen UV filter. 
>
> Didn't take my full spice kit on the Baja Divide because I'd planned to 
> live on fish tacos the whole time (very tricky in the mountains!). I no 
> longer take the Nikon as my iPhone 8 takes fine snaps, I leave the Garmin 
> GPS as I use GaiaGPS on my device, and I've swapped out my tripod stool for 
> a lighter Japanese folding stool. 
>
> I love my Big Agnes CopperSpur tent but wanted to spend some time getting 
> good at setting up my Mountain Laurel Designs Trailstar tarp in the deep 
> sand of Cabo where tent stakes are useless. 
>
> As far as essentials, hmm? My Marmot sleeping bag, a water bottle, my tool 
> roll, down jacket, wool undies, bandanas, rain gear, and camp slops.
>
> Anyways, that's my thinking on packing on wilderness-focused tours. 
>
> I'd love to hear what you've gleaned from your experience and what you 
> consider your essentials when heading into the mountains.
>
> Cheers, John
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Front Derailleur Suggestions

[Jeffrey Arita]

Matt,

I just saw this thread.  I had your exact same problem (compact double 
crankset w/ 46-30 rings + front derailleur).  When shifting from small to 
big,  it wouldn't or the chain would jump over onto the crankarm.  I was 
sure I installed the correct front derailleur.  

I examined the FD I installed and saw that it was my IRD *Alpina-d* for 
triples (wrong one for this use-case).  OLD EYES, I'm guessing.  I dug out 
my IRD *Sub-C *and, of course, all was right with the world - excellent 
shifting with the compact crankset.  The IRD Sub-C 

 
is just another potential solution for your crankset combo (unfortunately I 
checked and it seems to be out of stock and is backordered at many 
retailers).

Good luck,

Jeff
Claremont, CA



On Thursday, February 23, 2023 at 7:27:42 PM UTC-8 mmille...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Thanks all. When the FD was lowered, the chain could not climb up to the 
> big ring. First thing he did was lower it. I tried it myself, when I first 
> got the bike. 
>
> I just ordered a cx70. If that doesn’t work, I’ll get new VBC or figure 
> something out.
>
> Also figured out the brake levers were long pull. So that explains part of 
> the braking issue. Brakes are overrated! Ha.
>
> Matt
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Feb 23, 2023, at 9:16 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>
> The hiccup here is his double is really more of a triple with the middle 
> ring removed; lifting a chain from 28t to 46 is a big climb. I'm not sure a 
> double is going to cover this, but I agree lowering the derailer is a good 
> idea. 
>
>
>
> On Thursday, February 23, 2023 at 5:52:25 PM UTC-8 Nick Payne wrote:
>
>> Your FD needs to be lowered a fair bit. At the point of closest approach, 
>> there should be only about 2mm clearance between the top of the chainring 
>> teeth and the outside derailleur cage as it passes over the teeth. I have 
>> doubts about the experience of your "experience" mechanic if he positioned 
>> the FD where your photo shows it. Making that change will mean that the 
>> cage won't have to move so far outboard to get the chain onto the big ring. 
>> And if you're only using two chainrings, fitting an FD intended for a 
>> double rather than a triple would also improve things. The sculpting of the 
>> cage on a triple FD is intended for use with chainrings where there is a 
>> reasonably large jump in the number of teeth between the granny and middle 
>> chainrings, and a considerably smaller jump between the middle and outer 
>> chainrings.
>>
>> Nick Payne
>>
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> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/10fb423e-0cbc-4088-a95f-df59b61ceec5n%40googlegroups.com
>  
> 
> .
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Cima Coppi Cycle Wear C.B.

[Jeffrey Arita]

We do not (unfortunately) have any experience with their cycling shorts.  
However, my wife and I each own a pair of their wool jerseys and they have 
held up very well.  The Merino wool is very comfortable with excellent 
construction and attention to detail.  We received them in early 2019 and 
have worn them for many brevets.

Jeff & Lori Arita
Claremont, CA



On Saturday, February 4, 2023 at 6:07:32 AM UTC-8 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:

> Has anyone ordered any product, namely cycling shorts through this company 
> located in Oviedo, Spain ?
>
> https://cimacoppi.cc/en/content/9-who-we-are
>
> If so, looking for any feedback for consideration of purchasing some 
> cycling shorts.
>
> Thank-you.
>
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA.

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[RBW] Re: Jobst Brandt thought experiment: What would he ride today?

[Jeffrey Arita]

Andrew,

Thank you for sharing.  The article was definitely worth the read.  A few 
things stood out to me:

- they were/are all *extremely *fit.
- fear was not a word in their vocabulary.
- what camaraderie (and competition) at the same time.
- the Higgins' couple rock.  Of course the stoker is doing all the work ;)

Jeff
Claremont, CA
(who's beloved stoker [Lori] continues to do all the work)

On Tuesday, January 31, 2023 at 7:49:25 AM UTC-8 andyree...@gmail.com wrote:

> I'm in the process of building a JB-inspired road bike but with a nod to 
> current bicycle trends: mainly wider tires and spinnier gearing. As a 
> result, it's made me wonder what he would be riding today if you spliced 
> his timeline and moved his prime days to current day. 
>
> Today's Radavist 
> 
>  article 
> really fueled that question so I'd like to open it up to this group who 
> likely have much more insight into the man and his bike(s). 
>
> What are we thinking? Rim brakes or disc? Carbon? Steel? Ti? I see a lot 
> of similarities between him and Jan Heine as far as a desire for 
> performance and reliability, so perhaps he'd lean towards a rando build?  
>
> Take it away if you wish, 
> Andrew
>

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[RBW] Re: Short trip suggestions?

[Jeffrey Arita]

Perhaps the Oregon Outback  if 
you haven't already done it?  A long way to travel, which makes it that 
much more of a commitment (in a very good way).  We did it this past June.  
Definitely recommend for seriously "getting away from it all."

Heal fast,

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Monday, December 19, 2022 at 11:28:49 AM UTC-8 mcgr...@gmail.com wrote:

> I'm laid up for 6 more weeks with a broken foot (technically a fractured 
> fifth metatarsal), which has kept me from doing most of the things I enjoy 
> and has just generally not been super fun.  So I'm trying to look forward 
> to the spring and thinking about planning a bicycle trip somewhere new.  
> I'm in northern NJ, but I'm up for driving, flying, whatever.  I would be 
> thinking an extra-long weekend, maybe 4 days.  My favorite rides are taking 
> my Hunqapillar out on rolling dirt roads, easy singletrack or doubletrack, 
> but I'm also not pavement-averse.  
>
> If you have any suggestions, I'd love to hear them, and start 
> planning/dreaming for sunnier days!
>
> James
>

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[RBW] Re: FOR SALE: TRP RRL Alloy Bike Brake Levers Road Bike

[Jeffrey Arita]

PM Sent.

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Wednesday, November 23, 2022 at 6:20:55 AM UTC-8 rcc...@gmail.com wrote:

> Additional photos available upon request.
>
> On Wednesday, November 23, 2022 at 9:19:54 AM UTC-5 Rob Collard wrote:
>
>> TRP RRL Alloy Bike Brake Levers Road Bike  Black-Silver
>> Left and right TRP brake levels used on a 2020 Roadini build with 9 speed 
>> bar end shifters. Shimano SIS OT-SP41 cables, cable stops and installation 
>> instructions included.
>>
>> *Asking $35 plus shipping. *  Rob Collard Buffalo, NY
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Kickstand plates, what's up with that?

[Jeffrey Arita]

My wife and I each had Rivendells (me an AHH, my wife Betty Foy).  Both 
frame models each came with kickstand plates (yay!).  We spec'd both bikes 
with Greenfield *single *leg sidestands.  To our knowledge, the kickstand 
plates remained sturdy and attached.  But, both bikes were *not *loaded 
with a lot of gear or stuff - no racks and panniers, groceries, etc.  My 
wife did commute with her BF and she did carry extra clothing and shoes, 
but that was pretty much it.

We've since sold the Rivs but definitely see the need for some sort of 
sidestand, especially while loaded touring.  We've got friends that have 
purchased Click-Stands and they hold a very well loaded bicycle.  The guy 
builds a solid product.  Just remember to use the front brake band and 
you're good-to-go.  I ended up making our own from tent pole pieces after 
seeing how simple they were.  Another possible solution that won't stress 
out any part of the bicycle.

http://www.click-stand.com/

Leah: if you are concerned about your smartphone bicycle mount, consider 
getting a Quad Lock.  They are pricey, but we feel it is well worth it.  
We've used them for years now (6+) cyclotouring on- and *off-road* and they 
have kept our phones safe and secure.

https://www.quadlockcase.com/collections/shop-cycle

Good luck,

Jeff & Lori Arita
Claremont, CA

On Sunday, November 6, 2022 at 2:25:28 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

> [ I thank-you Joe Bernard for diverting Leah's 'Using Your Rivendell' 
> thread into a separate thread about "Kickstand plates, what's up with that 
> ?" ]
>
> I'm always here to help! ‍♂️ Or annoy people, depending on your POV! 
>
> I'm definitely going to keep my one-legger and try not to snap anything. I 
> tried kickstandless for a few weeks and it drove me nuts trying to figure 
> out how to part my bike with scraping it on poles and walls. Kickstands for 
> me! 
>
> On Sunday, November 6, 2022 at 2:03:43 PM UTC-8 Kim Hetzel wrote:
>
>> I thank-you Joe Bernard for diverting Leah's 'Using Your Rivendell' 
>> thread into a separate thread about "Kickstand plates, what's up with that 
>> ?"
>>
>> Upon you doing this, your timing is perfect. Like I mentioned previously, 
>> I just installed my new Pletscher two legged kickstand and the new rubber 
>> shoes for the feet of the stand on my Clem Smith Jr. "L" bike. I had the 
>> same set-up on my 2008 Surly Long Haul Trucker with no issues in the short 
>> time that I owned it. 
>>
>> I am very grateful to read all the valuable input and experiences with 
>> their kickstand plates. 
>>
>> What I plan on doing is to remove my Pletscher two legged kickstand and 
>> put the single kickstand back on my bike for the time being. I am going to 
>> order the Pletscher kickstand hardware from Rivendell and install the 
>> rubber chain stay protectors with the long bolt and reinstall the two 
>> legged kickstand. I want to preserve my kickstand plate being the third 
>> owner in less than a year. 
>>
>> Kim Hetzel
>> Yelm, WA.
>>
>> On Sunday, November 6, 2022 at 11:10:44 AM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> Seconding Jim's thoughts about your phone mount. I see a turn-by-hand 
>>> screw and plastic clamp, you'll break the clamp before crushing the bar if 
>>> you ever screwed it down that hard. 
>>>
>>> A little blue Loctite on the threads of that screw should keep it tight. 
>>>
>>> On Sunday, November 6, 2022 at 4:33:20 AM UTC-8 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 I read the product description which warns of over tightening and 
 ruining the frame. And then I thought of my new phone handlebar mount that 
 affixes to the bar like a vice and wondered if I’m ruining my Billie Bars! 
 I find myself having to tighten it a smidge now and then, and I wonder if 
 it’s because it’s mashing the aluminum Billie Bar. Can anyone offer an 
 opinion here? (I got a new iPhone and it’s huge and heavy, for what it’s 
 worth.)
 [image: image0.jpeg]

 On Nov 6, 2022, at 7:10 AM, Kainalu V. -Brooklyn NY  
 wrote:

 
 https://www.rivbike.com/products/pletscher-kickstand-hardware?variant=23336090241

 Save the plate! Add some weight!
 -Kai

 On Sunday, November 6, 2022 at 1:12:04 AM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:

> I thought I'd bring this over here instead of continuing to hammer 
> Leah's 'Using Your Rivendell' thread. 
>
> Do we have any reports of plates separating from the stays from a 
> single-leg kickstand, or are they all double-leggers? My experience with 
> both is this: 
>
> I used a double-legger on a Clem and could really load that bike up, 
> I'm familiar with that rocking sensation of all the weight torquing on 
> the 
> stand. On my custom I use a single leg (the stock one that came on Clem 
> completes a few years ago) and it's not very strong. It supports the bike 
> fine and I can put a small shopping load in the bags, but as soon as I 
> start to 

[RBW] Re: Betty Foy Sizing & Search

[Jeffrey Arita]

My wife had a 58cm Betty Foy.  She is about 5' - 6" tall and when we 
visited Rivendell, they advised that as her size.  We were a bit hesitant, 
but upon receiving the completed bike it fit her well since it is a 
step-through.  As noted, Riv recommended (at that time) Albatross 
handlebars - they come back toward the rider and it is nice and upright, so 
good fit is not too difficult.  Thus, I think your wife would fit a 52cm no 
problem.  My wife did use it for commuting purposes, too (until we plugged 
the plug).

Yes, I think it might be a bit hard to find a Betty Foy.  Maybe the 
Platypus?

Best regards,

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Monday, October 24, 2022 at 12:00:06 PM UTC-7 mmille...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hello all,
>
> I've been looking for a step-through for my wife. She specifically likes a 
> Betty Foy, but really anything "pretty" would work. She's not really in to 
> changing gears a lot, and this would also be for commuting and trail rides 
> <10 miles. Does this crew have any ideas/bikes?
>
> Also, it's tough to find sizing on the Betty Foy bikes. Does anyone have 
> old material or could chime in with their size? I've searched and searched, 
> but been coming up empty.
>
> She's 5'4" with a 77 PBH.
>
> Thanks,
> Matt in STL
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Sunxcd 50.4 cranks 170mm or less or something else...

[Jeffrey Arita]

I was successful in using a VO 50.4 crankset set up with TA chainrings (42 
/ 26).  VO does not make any smaller chainrings than their stock setup when 
you purchase it, unfortunately (it comes stock with 46/30).  Yes, the setup 
can end up being a bit pricey, but if you want lower ratios, this is one 
such solution.

I chose that combo as I installed it on a gravel bike that would see some 
climbing where we live (foothills of Southern California).  It worked okay, 
but gotta say I might have wished for a bit lower gearing (I ran an 
11-speed cassette - 11 / 34).

Since I ran an 11-speed chain, the chain fell between the chainrings with 
the stock VO hardware and TA rings.  I was able to solve this problem by 
swapping out the stock VO small ring spacers with slightly thinner ones 
made by Wheels Manufacturing.  Shifting is spot-on.

Good luck,

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Saturday, October 8, 2022 at 4:23:06 PM UTC-4 J wrote:

> Howdy folks,
>
> I'm preparing parts for a new bike and I'm stuck on cranksets. I'd like to 
> run, what I think is called a sub compact double, but something in the 
> range of 42-26, or 44-26. I could just buy shorter chainring bolts and pull 
> the outer big ring off a triple crank (Sugino AT?) like I've done for 
> years, but I was hoping to do something a bit better looking this time 
> around. 
>
> The Sunxcd is sold out everywhere, I've never been to keen on White 
> Industries and only having black chainrings, RH are beautiful but too 
> expensive, TA are tough to nab on ebay, I don't think I can get that low 
> with the Velo Orange Grand Cru. 
>
> 11-32 or 11-34 cassette. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Doldrums

[Jeffrey Arita]

Hi Jay,

I will send you a PM on the Oregon Outback (since I suggested it).  Be on 
the lookout for it as it may go to your spam folder

Jeff

On Friday, September 16, 2022 at 3:10:09 PM UTC-4 Jay Lonner wrote:

> 
> So I’ve been mulling this over and am thinking that the Oregon Outback 
> sounds like a good goal for me. I’ve never done any bikepacking but have 
> extensive backpacking experience in the North Cascades, so a venture like 
> this would marry two lifelong interests. More to the point, it would demand 
> training and a number of shakedown rides, which would break me out of the 
> three R’s and get me back onto my bike.
>
> Apart from rides with my wife and family I’ve mostly been a “lone wolf” 
> cyclist, which is inadvisable in the backcountry. How does one break into 
> the bikepacking scene? A “companions wanted” ad in Adventure Cyclist 
> magazine? Can anyone point me in the direction of clubs/communities of 
> likeminded souls? Or do any of you in the greater PNW region feel like 
> signing up for a little adventure?
>
> Jay Lonner
> Bellingham, WA
>
> Sent from my Atari 400
>
> On Sep 16, 2022, at 9:10 AM, Josh Brown  wrote:
>
> 
>
> I love looking at the circle I made around Taiwan this summer so much that 
> I'm going to share it here.
>
> On Thu, Sep 15, 2022, 7:19 AM Eric Daume  wrote:
>
>> With wandrer, even worse than cul-de-sacs for me are apartment complexes. 
>> Tedious architecture and lots of dead ends. 
>>
>> I had one ride where I spent about 1.5 hours riding (in the rain!) 
>> through several apartment complexes, trying to finally close out a section, 
>> only to find my phone had stopped recording a mile into the ride. Doh!
>>
>> Eric
>>
>> On Wed, Sep 14, 2022 at 8:59 PM Robert Tilley  wrote:
>>
>>> I recently signed up with Wandrer to force me to take some different 
>>> routes. I've worked from home for the last 4 years or so and have no free 
>>> time so all of my rides tend to be errands and also tend to be along the 
>>> same routes. 
>>>
>>> It's been fun so far but I have come to really hate the inventor of the 
>>> cul-de-sac. My area is full of them and it's a real pain to "bag" them all. 
>>> One short road section here has eight cul-de-sacs sprouting off of it. I've 
>>> gotten a lot of odd looks in the week that I've been trying to clear them 
>>> all. I keep thinking I'm gonna get beat up since I likely look like some 
>>> kind of weirdo riding into and out of all of these small neighborhoods. 
>>> I've started using my Brompton so I look more like a harmless creep than a 
>>> creepy creep. I'm waiting for someone to post about "some weird old guy 
>>> riding through our neighborhoods" on the Nextdoor app.
>>>
>>> I make double sure that my watch is recording my ride before I take off. 
>>> I can't even imagine going through some of those routes only to find I 
>>> didn't hit "record". My wailing would be heard for miles and would be the 
>>> source of much consternation I am certain.
>>>
>>> I have my area about clear so I'm now heading out into the unknown...
>>>
>>> Robert Tilley
>>> San Diego, CA
>>>
>>> On Wed, Sep 7, 2022 at 4:22 AM Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>>>
 Eric described and showed some of the fun one can derive from 
 wandrer.earth.

 I concur wholeheartedly that wandrer.earth can add another layer of fun 
 to cycling for some people.  I tend towards the compulsive, and so when I 
 can planfully do something, I am generally more likely to follow through 
 with that something, or at least stick with that pursuit for a longer 
 period.  In short, wandrer.earth got me through the pandemic, because it 
 added a layer of fun for rides that were all solo, and were mostly not far 
 from my front door.  I got pretty hardcore with it, and am very proud of 
 my 
 footprint in the SF Bay Area (Contra Costa, Alameda and Marin Counties 
 mostly).  My job has me travel to Michigan almost monthly, and my presence 
 in Wayne County is preserved on wandrer, and that helped shape many of the 
 hours that I would otherwise have spent watching TV in a hotel room.  I 
 just returned from a three week vacation in Europe and one of my digital 
 souvenirs is a solid footprint in Stockholm, Sweden, Copenhagen Denmark, 
 and Amsterdam.  

 Bill Lindsay
 El Cerrito, CA

 On Wednesday, September 7, 2022 at 3:14:33 AM UTC-7 Eric Daume wrote:

> Near Dublin, OH, a suburb of Columbus. According to wandrer.earth, 
> Dublin has just over 400 miles of bike paths and accessible roads (it 
> doesn't count interstates, etc). It took me from November through July to 
> hit my target for riding these roads (blue is ridden, red is unridden):
>
> [image: image.png]
>
> It's a fun app. I found I was riding longer distances to get out to 
> new roads, so I ended up in better than usual shape for mid summer.
>
> Eric
>
>
>
> On Tue, 

[RBW] Re: Doldrums

[Jeffrey Arita]

Jay,

I've definitely been in your place - the 3 R's: the same roads, routes or 
routines.  Day in, day out.  One might suggest a way to get out of the 
doldrums is to engage in 'voluntary hardship.'  Perhaps a cycle-touring 
trip to a place/locale you have never been.  One such route that is kinda 
close to you is the Oregon Outback 
, partially inspired by Jan 
Heine's trip report (and no, we did NOT do it as a FKT).  In fact, we did 
it extremely slowly.  We hit frost, rain and heat all in the same trip.  
Definitely something that might take you out of the doldrums.

Good luck,

Jeff
Claremont, CA


On Tuesday, September 6, 2022 at 1:52:51 PM UTC-4 Jay Lonner wrote:

> Over the years my cycling has increasingly tended toward 
> commuting/utility. Bike-centered vacations/tours remain on the menu, and 
> are still very enjoyable to me, but the day-in, day-out feels like a chore. 
> Part of this is seasonal — I have an easier time dealing with cool, wet 
> conditions than hot, sticky weather. So maybe this problem will solve 
> itself with the autumn rains imminent. But I’m wondering whether others 
> ever get a case of cycling burnout, and maybe have some tips to work 
> through it.
>
> Jay Lonner
> Bellingham, WA
>

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[RBW] Re: Going around in circles with shifters.

[Jeffrey Arita]

Ben: I will add my 2 cents: we are big bar-end fans - they are on the bikes 
that have drop handlebars.  We only go friction - not indexed, so YMMV.  We 
use front racks and Wald baskets, and yes, depending upon your specific 
setup, the pair of long "U" cable and cable housing can get in the way.  
Try routing the big U's under the Mark's rack and then zip-tie them to the 
rack so they are somewhat stationary.  Finally zip tie both U's together so 
they act like a single unit.  Yeah, it looks clunky but it might help keep 
those big U's under control.

Good luck,

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Wednesday, August 24, 2022 at 6:48:00 PM UTC-7 bunny...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hey all! Just looking for some gear chat.
>
> I have a Rambouillet with drop bars. I'm finally getting everything 
> comfortable, but I've been around the block with my shifters.
>
> My bike came with 8 speed bar end shifters. However, when I did my first 
> configuration I mounted them on the downtube. They worked great. It was 
> kind of a bummer to reach down, but I went with it because I loved the 
> simplicity and getting the cables off the handlebars. 
>
> After a while I decided to put them back in the bar ends. I had previously 
> used bar ends for a long time, so it felt like home. However, I have a 
> front Mark's rack with a basket and the derailleur cables were always 
> getting in the way of the front stuff.
>
> So I just ran the cables fully under the bar tape and that install works 
> great to get stuff out of the way, but now my shifting performance is 
> pretty bad from the twisty cable runs; much worse than any other 
> configurations.
>
> So, nothing is really broken, but I know it can be better. Wondering if I 
> should try again with a new take on the "not under tape" routing. Or try 
> downtube again? Or just go nuts and look for a used STI system?
>
> Let's chat!
> Ben
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Randonneuring Bike

[Jeffrey Arita]

Hi Dick,

I will chime in here: I rode a 400k brevet in April on a (new to me) 
Rambouillet.  I purchased it from a list member here in 2021 and it rides 
well (vs. my other brevet bike).  I did use a Brooks Cambium 'carved' model 
(my favorite saddle).  Tires were 700x32 Panaracer GravelKing slicks at 
relatively low pressures.  Comfy.  As others have duly noted, just about 
any bicycle will do, as long as its comfortable for you.  

Good luck,

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Thursday, August 18, 2022 at 1:52:59 PM UTC-7 Dick Combs wrote:

> Looking for opinions/thoughts on the best Riv for Brevets, 200-400K rides. 
> Looking for current models as well as older models. Thanks

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Re: [RBW] Re: Best dynamo headlight for road riding

[Jeffrey Arita]

Patrick,

My wife and I have experience with several different dynamo LED lights. 
 Edelux, Edelux 2, B Cyo, Sinewave Beacon, B IQ-X.  For us, at this 
time, the B IQ-X is the best for pavement riding.  It easily eclipses the 
Edelux 2.  I recall riding with the IQ-X on our tandem last summer on a 
night ride.  It lit up our *entire* vehicle lane.  Some folks do not like 
how there are dimmer spots and brighter spots from the lens.  I get it. 
 But we got used to it.  On a very dark night it is amazing.  Watch for 
Amazon sales for really good pricing

One really annoying thing (at least to me) is the IQ-X has an automatic 
feature in which it automatically turns on as a daylight or nightlight, 
depending upon how much ambient light the device senses.  Some might find 
this an invaluable feature, YMMV.  Every time one stops for a bit of time I 
have to remember to *manually* turn it off, saving those precious watts on 
those steep climbs (we are currently cyclotouring in SW Colorado).

Regarding the Sinewave Beacon: I agree - it could be *the* perfect light if 
it had an StVZO lens, IMO.  I did ask the owner of Sinewave a few years ago 
if he was going to use such a lens.  At that time he said no.  Despite 
that, the Beacon checks off a lot of positive features I wish other LED 
lights would incorporate.  Being able to power an LED light via a dynamo 
*OR* a USB battery should be standard, IMO.  Within the chassis, it also 
has electronics for a USB output - extremely critical for cnyclotouring. 
 I've had direct experience with the issue of charging a *smartphone* off 
the USB output: it is a measly trickle charge.  But, I think we have to 
remember that it isn't really the light's fault but rather the dynamo.  The 
dynamo outputs a nominal 3 watts.  With losses between the dynamo, wiring 
and USB device, it really is a trickle.  I have had excellent success in 
directly recharging GPS devices (Wahoo BOLT and ROAM) using the Beacon. 
 Since their batteries are relatively small, the Sinewave Beacon's USB 
output has recharged those devices within an hour or so of steady riding. 
 Allows one to start the next day with a full charge - perfect for 
cyclotouring/bikepacking.

Good luck,

Jeff & Lori Arita
Claremont, CA (currently in Silverton, CO)

P.S.: We Amtrak'd from Los Angeles to ABQ.  Took the Rail Runner (awesome) 
to Santa Fe.  Began pedaling from SF to Durango.  We loved the Rail Runner: 
when the train car's doors were about to close, the audible warning was the 
Road Runner's "Meep - Meep." ;)





On Friday, July 29, 2022 at 8:40:37 AM UTC-6 brok...@gmail.com wrote:

> My only dyno headlight experience is with the Sinewave Beacon. I mention 
> it because it seems to address your two questions. It ticks a lot of boxes 
> for me, but after 2.5 years of hard use with it, I can't say it has lived 
> fully up to the expectations I had for it.
>
> Pros: Made in USA, waterproof, all metal construction, can be mounted 
> upside-down, is tremendously bright, has a standlight that glows for hours, 
> is pre-wired for a taillight, can be powered by a battery bank, can charge 
> devices via a waterproof USB port
>
> Despite all the pros, two things have disappointed me. First, the beam 
> pattern is more suited for off-road riding. It just blasts a big round beam 
> of light directly in front of you. No focused beam pattern for riding in 
> traffic. Secondly, I'm not sure if my light is faulty, or if it's user 
> error, but I find the USB charging capability pretty much useless. I can 
> plug my phone into it and ride 20-30 miles at 12-14mph and the battery may 
> only go up 1-2% from where it was when I plugged it in. I've heard folks 
> say it is best used to trickle-charge a battery bank, but my battery bank 
> is so large, and takes so long to charge up when plugged into a wall 
> outlet, I don't think I would ever know whether or not the Sinewave was 
> even charging it at all.
>
> On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 9:30 AM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>
>> The nice bright (plastic) headlight on the Dahon was a Lumotec IQ 
>> something or another, again, no longer made.
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 27, 2022 at 2:37 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:
>>
>>> ...  A few years ago I had a high-end (if there are levels, this was an 
>>> upper-class level model) but now (I think) discontinued headlight on my Hon 
>>> Solo that gave a brighter and broader beam than the EI, and had a normal 
>>> standlight -- 3 minutes or so.
>>>
>>
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>>  
>> 

[RBW] Re: Bike check: Mike Varley's Tesch road bike

[Jeffrey Arita]

My middle brother's passion is photography, and yes, he takes amazing 
images, too - he loves the fall colors.  Your photos of summers in 
Tennessee are inspirational: my wife and I just might have to plan a 
cyclo-touring trip to check out those sights.

I recall my older sister buying Paul Simon's "There Goes Rhymin' Simon" LP 
(yeah, 33-1/3rd) BITD.  *Kodachrome *- a classic!!

Later,

Jeff

On Thursday, July 7, 2022 at 5:58:48 PM UTC-7 Andrew Turner wrote:

> Thanks, Jeff! 
> I took a pretty long photography break but I'm starting to feel the itch 
> again. I have a hard time simply taking pictures of my rides, it turns into 
> going on rides to take pictures which for me, isn't the point of riding. I 
> think that's the great thing about film cameras since you don't get a redo, 
> you just gotta ride on, but I don't have that equipment...yet. Digital's so 
> much easier to upload and edit, too. Hmph. 
>
> On Thursday, July 7, 2022 at 7:27:05 PM UTC-5 Jeffrey Arita wrote:
>
>> Andrew,
>>
>> Very, very nice Tesch!  But, I must say, even *better *images.  I kept 
>> scrolling and scrolling, enjoying your journeys.  Those gorgeous curvy 
>> roads.  Two thumbs up!!
>>
>> Best regards,
>>
>> Jeff
>> Claremont, CA
>>
>> On Thursday, July 7, 2022 at 4:26:11 PM UTC-7 Andrew Turner wrote:
>>
>>> Well I'll be. Thanks for the heads-up, it's fixed now. 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, July 7, 2022 at 6:18:26 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>>> It's a great looking bike.
>>>>
>>>> The nut part of your Nitto Stem handlebar pinch bolt is installed 
>>>> backwards.  You should flip that over.  
>>>>
>>>> Bill Lindsay
>>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>>
>>>> On Thursday, July 7, 2022 at 3:59:44 PM UTC-7 Andrew Turner wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I bought this bike a few months ago and quickly fell in love with it. 
>>>>> It's reached the final form so I took some pics and did a little 
>>>>> write-up. 
>>>>> Just keep scrollin' :) 
>>>>>
>>>>> Cheers, 
>>>>> Andrew 
>>>>>
>>>>> https://www.lickcreekrambler.com/
>>>>>
>>>>

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[RBW] Re: Bike check: Mike Varley's Tesch road bike

[Jeffrey Arita]

Andrew,

Very, very nice Tesch!  But, I must say, even *better *images.  I kept 
scrolling and scrolling, enjoying your journeys.  Those gorgeous curvy 
roads.  Two thumbs up!!

Best regards,

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Thursday, July 7, 2022 at 4:26:11 PM UTC-7 Andrew Turner wrote:

> Well I'll be. Thanks for the heads-up, it's fixed now. 
>
> On Thursday, July 7, 2022 at 6:18:26 PM UTC-5 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> It's a great looking bike.
>>
>> The nut part of your Nitto Stem handlebar pinch bolt is installed 
>> backwards.  You should flip that over.  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Thursday, July 7, 2022 at 3:59:44 PM UTC-7 Andrew Turner wrote:
>>
>>> I bought this bike a few months ago and quickly fell in love with it. 
>>> It's reached the final form so I took some pics and did a little write-up. 
>>> Just keep scrollin' :) 
>>>
>>> Cheers, 
>>> Andrew 
>>>
>>> https://www.lickcreekrambler.com/
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: New Dynamo Wheel Day

[Jeffrey Arita]

I will add our 2 cents: 100% agree with Busch & Muller IQ-X (100 lux).  The 
light output is quite amazing.  We've used these on early season brevets 
and they really light up the road.  It is (in our opinions) brighter than 
the Schmidt Edelux II.

The B rear light is fantastic too (Toplight Line Brake Plus), the one 
that gets brighter when one slows down.

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Friday, May 13, 2022 at 10:43:50 AM UTC-7 Doug H. wrote:

> I just received a Hands On Wheels 650b Cliffhanger with a Kasai Dynacoil 
> RB hub! I'm always amazed at the quality of Rich's wheels. I bought a front 
> only for my Clem and now need lights. I'm open to recommendations but have 
> been looking at Busch and Muller lights which seem on par with the best 
> made. The other, cheaper brands I've seen are AXA and Trelock. One other 
> surprise was Rich sent a Silver branded skewer. I did not know they offered 
> those but it looks classy and well made.
> Doug
>

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[RBW] Re: A love letter to stainless steel water bottles

[Jeffrey Arita]

@ Andrew,

Thanks for sharing.  We will be checking out the Bivo.  Their cap and 
(gravity) flow rate looks ideal (ex-NASA developed!).  Will be on the 
lookout for their insulated model, hopefully soon.

We continue to use Hydroflask models, but the flow rate out of their 
specific mouthpiece is just so-so.  Plus, cleaning the inside of their cap 
can be concerning, lots of nooks and crannies.  

@ Miles: we too use King Cages (with above stainless steel Hydroflasks).  
We've found the King Cage 'Iris' model cage to hold a naked stainless 
container a little better vs. King's  (we've used both models of King 
Cages).  The amount of friction between the two King Cages is clearly 
evident.  Granted, we were *not *using this specific combo off-road though.

While off-road we used the large wide-mouth Hydroflask (40 ounce - 1.18 
liter) insulated container with a BBB XL Fueltank cage + Voile strap.  This 
combo was extremely secure in all kinds of rough terrain (it never ejected 
off the bike).  It obviously removes the possibility and ease of drinking 
while riding a bike though.  It was simply a way to carry a decent amount 
of water securely while cyclotouring/bikepacking.

Best regards,

Jeff
Claremont, CA





On Wednesday, May 4, 2022 at 3:12:48 PM UTC-7 Andrew Turner wrote:

> I came across this company a couple weeks ago and bought 2, and thought 
> I'd share.
> https://drinkbivo.com/   
>
> I've used both plastic (Purist) and stainless (Klean Kanteen) bottles in 
> the past but the Purist inevitably get funky, leaves an aftertaste despite 
> the hype, and will eventually get tossed. Kleans are great but not as 
> optimized for cycling as Bivo's product. I highly recommend trying them 
> out, especially if you haven't tried stainless. This came off really ady so 
> I apologize for that but plastic sucks...that being said, it looks like 
> some biodegradable options are popping up which is great. (But stainless 
> tastes so gd) OK I'M DONE, PROMISE! 
>
> Andrew

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[RBW] Re: Heterodoxy — reconciling RBW with the mainstream

[Jeffrey Arita]

Jay,

My wife and I spent some time this past fall in Colorado, New Mexico and 
Northern AZ.  We drove a car and took our bikes (all rigid, adventure and 
gravel bikes).  Riding some of the singletrack trails in Colorado, we got 
an abrupt wake-up call - many of the sections were, for us, very technical 
vs. what we were used to on rigid bikes.  Most of the locals were looking 
at us funny, as they were on full suspension rigs.  Sure, trail knowledge 
and experience are crucial, but having that technology sure helps.  The AZT 
and CT can be brutal.

Upon our return in late 2021, we got my wife a full suspension mountain 
bike for her birthday.  It is night and day the type of terrain one can 
ride (in comfort *and *control).  So, yes, different tools for different 
terrain.  We've had or still have Rivs (AHH, BF, Ram) along with a CF full 
suspension, adventure (Fargos), steel tandems and randonneurs.  Nothing 
wrong with applying different tools for specific situations.  I'm thinking 
as long as one is having a good time, it can't be wrong. 

Best regards,

Jeff & Lori
Claremont, CA

On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:49:11 PM UTC-8 Jay Lonner wrote:

> My wife and I are spending a week in northern AZ, which included a day of 
> mountain biking in Sedona. We rented fancy dual-suspension, carbon fiber 
> wonderbikes which are about as anti-Riv as you can get — and it was a 
> fantastic experience! I’ve never ridden such a beast before, and was amazed 
> at the terrain it could handle in the hands of a newcomer to this style of 
> riding. It’s the most fun I’ve had on a bike in years.
>
> I had a Gus in my shopping cart when they were last on sale, but 
> ultimately didn’t go through with the purchase because I want to be free to 
> experiment with builds that depart from the Riv way of doing things, such 
> as IGHs and disc brakes. And now I’m doubly glad I held off, because I am 
> giving serious consideration to buying a fully modern mountain bike.
>
> In retrospect I think I gave too much credence to the idea of underbiking. 
> There’s no way I could have handled this sort of terrain on a Riv-style 
> bike — I would have been walking it the entire time. And while that may be 
> the lowest common gear, as a former commenter here liked to say, it 
> wouldn’t have been nearly as fun.
>
> So I guess this is part confession and part query — who else mixes and 
> matches their Rivendells with the sort of modern ironmongery that would 
> give Grant & Co. conniptions? 
>
> Jay Lonner
> Bellingham, WA (but temporarily in Sedona, AZ)
>

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[RBW] Re: Buzzy hubs, hipster or window rattling?

[Jeffrey Arita]

What's with all the hubbub, bub?  (badda bing).

I like both - based on that bike's needs - the WI hubs on our adventure 
bikes kept the bears on Def-Con 4 ;)

Ha!  Now, back to our regular programming

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Wednesday, February 9, 2022 at 7:58:17 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Just back from a ride on my fancy schmancy custom with its fancy schmancy 
> White Industries hubs. Why did I think that loud freewheeling buzz was the 
> cool jam?? I feel like I'm on a Harley with straight pipes pissing all the 
> neighbors off! What's the verdict around here, are buzzy hubs hip and cool 
> and I'm a grouchy old anti-hip and cool person? 
>
> Joe "uncool as always" Bernard 
>

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[RBW] Re: Hub Play

[Jeffrey Arita]

Well, I gotta say, this topic (the humble bearing) can be one heckuva 
rabbit hole!  John, this is likely why your Chris King's are probably still 
going strong - go here , scroll 
down to "Our Bearings" and watch CK's video.

CK manufacture their own sealed angular contact bearings.  Amazing since CK 
can then control each and every aspect of all of their components.  Makes 
complete sense.

It appears that WI has partnered with Enduro Bearings.

It would be an interesting exercise to convert from radial to angular 
contact bearings - yet another project!  I have to say, I'm hesitant to try 
since I'd likely have to buy or borrow more drifts and tools.

I recently serviced my rear hub for my Rambouillet (Shimano Ultegra 
FH-6500).  I think that hub was introduced around 2002-2003 or so.  I 
bought the Ram from a fellow RBW person on this forum and it was ridden 
well.  After disassembling the hub it was in very good condition.  I 
cleaned out the cup and cones and used Shimano's "Premium" grease and it 
buttoned up nicely.  Amazing longevity.   Those cup and cone angular 
contact bearings last a long time. 

Best regards, 

Jeff
Claremont, CA  






On Wednesday, January 26, 2022 at 5:03:46 PM UTC-8 John Rinker wrote:

> I agree- a very interesting discussion. Regarding my hub, it spins 
> beautifully and so I'll live with the quirky radial bearing play. Out of 
> curiosity, the bearings are ABEC 6902. Does this mean if I wanted one day 
> to replace them with angular bearings I would go with 7902s? Seems logical, 
> but until yesterday I had no idea bearings came in other flavors. 
>
> On a side note, I have some 25-year-old Chris King hubs that run 
> beautifully with no play. Would these contain angular bearings or just 
> really good radial bearings like the Phils?
>
> Cheers,
> John
>
> On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:38:22 AM UTC+9 Nick Payne wrote:
>
>> On Thursday, 27 January 2022 at 6:36:02 am UTC+11 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> I remember in the very early years of Riv that Grant mentioned Bullseye 
>>> hubs do this and to basically ignore it. Until I've done a 
>>> *lot *more riding..ignore it I shall. 
>>>
>>
>> I have some Bullseye hubs that are now almost 40 years old, and they have 
>> exhibited this play since new, and still exhibit it to much the same 
>> degree. I replace the 6001 bearings in them every few years. There is much 
>> the same play in the Bullseye roller bearing bottom brackets, of which I 
>> still have a couple in use. If you grab the crankarms and waggle them, some 
>> small amount of play can be detected, and could be detected even when the 
>> BBs were brand new.
>>
>> Of the cartridge bearing hubs that I have, only the White Industries and 
>> Onyx hubs have adjusting collars that would allow for correct preload to be 
>> set if the deep groove radial bearings were replaced with angular contact 
>> bearings.
>>
>> Nick
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Hub Play

[Jeffrey Arita]

FWIW: I bought a *very *well-used DTSwiss wheelset (240S hubs) a bit ago.  
The guy I bought the wheelset from is a bikepacker and he really rode those 
wheels (good for him).

I re-laced the rear hub to my rim of choice and built it up into a complete 
wheel.after I installed it there was definitely lateral play: with the 
wheel/tire on the bike, bike on the ground, grab the tire between the thumb 
and index finger and move side to side.  Definitely a perceptible bit of 
play both ways.

Apparently this issue is fairly well known with DTSwiss 240S hubs (I found 
out after buying the wheelset of course).  The inner driveside bearing 
takes the most beating and should be checked and replaced.  So, it 
looks like I will be taking that rear hub apart.

As an aside, I also have an old-ish Shimano FH-3500 hub (Sora).  It has 
regular cup & cone bearings and it is like a Timex: it takes a beating and 
keeps on ticking.

Jeff


On Tuesday, January 25, 2022 at 10:28:17 PM UTC-8 John Rinker wrote:

> Garth and Jeffrey,
>
> Thank you very much for your kind replies. Yes, this was my first course 
> of action when the problem first arose, and while WI contacts at the time 
> were attentive and wished to help, I recall we didn't really come to a 
> solution. I do have a conversation in the wings with another knowledgeable 
> fellow, so I'll see where this one takes me. I contact WI again if 
> necessary.
>
> S.Greco, I'll keep you informed should my issue be resolved. 
>
> Cheers,
> John
>
> On Tuesday, January 25, 2022 at 10:47:39 PM UTC+9 S. Greco wrote:
>
>> I have this same issue with one of my M15 hubs. Please post if you get a 
>> solid answer. 
>> My LBS recommended new bearings which I bought and installed, but it did 
>> not fix the issue.
>>
>> On Monday, January 24, 2022 at 9:33:29 PM UTC-5 Jeffrey Arita wrote:
>>
>>> John,
>>>
>>> As Garth advises, I too would reach out to White Industries.  I had a 
>>> question regarding a rear hub awhile ago and they were very helpful.  
>>> Speaking on the phone in a two-way is, IMHO, always better.  They might 
>>> need to eventually inspect the hub, so that might happen.  Either way, WI 
>>> has been outstanding, at least for me.  Good luck.
>>>
>>> Best regards,
>>>
>>> Jeff
>>> Claremont, CA
>>>
>>> On Sunday, January 23, 2022 at 3:07:46 PM UTC-8 John Rinker wrote:
>>>
>>>> Please pardon if this is not the forum for this and kindly redirect me 
>>>> if possible. 
>>>>
>>>> The rear wheel of my Hunq finds a White M15 that is about 4 or so years 
>>>> old at its center. Several years ago it developed a bit of play and I 
>>>> haven't been able to solve the issue. I have adjusted it meticulously 
>>>> according to White's specifications, but the play resurfaces after a few 
>>>> kilometers of riding.
>>>>
>>>> I. have a. new set of bearings for the hub, but before I replace them I 
>>>> thought I'd reach out to see if anyone might offer a simpler fix. 
>>>>
>>>> CHeers,
>>>> John
>>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Hub Play

[Jeffrey Arita]

John,

As Garth advises, I too would reach out to White Industries.  I had a 
question regarding a rear hub awhile ago and they were very helpful.  
Speaking on the phone in a two-way is, IMHO, always better.  They might 
need to eventually inspect the hub, so that might happen.  Either way, WI 
has been outstanding, at least for me.  Good luck.

Best regards,

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Sunday, January 23, 2022 at 3:07:46 PM UTC-8 John Rinker wrote:

> Please pardon if this is not the forum for this and kindly redirect me if 
> possible. 
>
> The rear wheel of my Hunq finds a White M15 that is about 4 or so years 
> old at its center. Several years ago it developed a bit of play and I 
> haven't been able to solve the issue. I have adjusted it meticulously 
> according to White's specifications, but the play resurfaces after a few 
> kilometers of riding.
>
> I. have a. new set of bearings for the hub, but before I replace them I 
> thought I'd reach out to see if anyone might offer a simpler fix. 
>
> CHeers,
> John
>

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[RBW] Re: Platypus Questions

[Jeffrey Arita]

My wife and I use Click-Stands .  The stand is 
*not 
*attached to your bike.  Yes, another thing to carry on your bike.  But it 
works very well for very heavy cyclotouring/bikepacking bikes.  It should 
work well for your Platy.  In reading everyone's comments, we had exactly 
the same issues trying to use a fixed/attached sidestand.  It turns out 
that using the Click-Stand combined with a means to "set the front parking 
brake" does the trick (sort of a nice anti-theft device, too).

When working on bikes, I use a Park Tool PCS-9.x series.  I always attach 
the clamp to the exposed seatpost (yes, my wife's Betty Foy commuter with 
rear rack and panniers was a heavy lift).  I never attach it to any part of 
the frame as the clamping forces can be pretty brutal.  Some of our bikes 
have very little seatpost showing, so I have to mark the seatpost, loosen 
the seatpost binder bolt, extend the seatpost so that the clamp has enough 
to grab.  After working on the bike, readjust back to the original height.

Good luck,

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Thursday, January 6, 2022 at 1:19:59 PM UTC-8 hugohal...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hi Everyone, I have been enjoying my 60cm Platypus since I received it in 
> October. On rides, I have been loving the extra long top tube, however, it 
> has made the bike unwieldy when it is in storage, on the repair stand or 
> locked up. Anyone else having these issues? Anyone have any suggestions for 
> 1. a good kickstand, and 2. a good position on the repair stand? Thanks!
>
> As far as kickstands are concerned, I did try the single leg kick stand 
> that came with my Big Dummy long tail cargo bike, however, it did not work. 
> The Big Dummy's extra length is in the extra long chain stay whereas the 
> Platypus's extra length is in every part of the geometry being stretched 
> out. I also purchased a Pletscher twin kickstand, however it appears that 
> the kickstand plate on the Platypus is built only for a single kick stand. 
> Has anyone had any luck getting the twin on the Platypus, or should I just 
> shell out and get one of the recommended kickstands from Riv? If so, does 
> someone recommend a specific model for the Platypus?
>
> Thanks! - HH 
>

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Re: [RBW] Bar end vs Downtube

[Jeffrey Arita]

This discussion is timely.  We've been using bar ends for so long now that 
shifting becomes instinctual.  However, I do use pretty decent sized 'U' 
cable housing so that shifting is smooth.  The housing/cabling can get in 
the way of handlebar bags, and as some have noted, it doesn't look the best 
although it is functional.

I just might try Steven's suggestion.  Thanks everyone,

Happy Holidays!

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Friday, December 24, 2021 at 4:45:22 PM UTC-8 Steven Sweedler wrote:

> After many years of riding nothing but bar end shifters, I have switched 
> to stem mounted shifters and find them very easy and convenient. They have 
> a simple cable run, especially if your cables run onnyour downtube. Either 
> hand can shift either derailleur. Worth considering. Steve
>
> On Fri, Dec 24, 2021 at 7:04 PM  wrote:
>
>> Years back I bought a used Rambouillet that came to me with down tube 
>> shifters. I rode it that way for a while just to see what I thought of them 
>> after at least a decade since the last time I used them.
>>
>> I can’t say they were horrible but I much prefer bar mounted shifters 
>> since they make shifting easier and safer. I do like the look and the ease 
>> of setup of down tube shifters but the ergonomics are lacking for me. I 
>> ride a 58-60 cm frame.
>>
>> Robert Tilley
>> San Diego, CA
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Dec 24, 2021, at 11:01 AM, atreya...@gmail.com  
>> wrote:
>>
>> I am debating bar end vs down tube shifters for the upcoming homer 
>> build. I like the simplicity and aesthetics of down tube but concerned how 
>> “inconvenient “ they could be given longish geometry of rivs. For non 
>> racing and just riding for pleasure usecases does it matter .I am also 
>> considering going downtube for FD and bar end for RD. If over time I find 
>> downtube comfortable enough switch both to downtube . Would love to hear 
>> groups thoughts and experience. 
>>
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>> 
>> .
>>
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>> .
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> -- 
> Steven Sweedler
> Plymouth, New Hampshire
>

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[RBW] Re: New to me Saluki is in

[Jeffrey Arita]

Joel,

Gorgeous bike!  Perfect to end the year and to begin a new one.  Enjoy it!

Best regards,

Jeff 
Claremont, CA

On Friday, December 24, 2021 at 8:12:30 AM UTC-8 Joel S wrote:

> [image: Saluki TA Zephyr.jpg][image: Saluki side raw.jpg][image: Saluki 
> side back.jpg][image: Saluki front.jpg]Thanks to Johnny Alien I was able 
> to get this frame
>
> sorry for the poor photo quality but the basement lighting is poor. here 
> is a quick look.
>
> [image: Saluki.jpg]
>

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[RBW] Re: WTT: Brooks C17 Black

[Jeffrey Arita]

Hi Doug,

PM sent.

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 7:29:41 AM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:

> I've now tried the C17 and my bum doesn't approve so I want to trade for a 
> B17 black or antique brown, not the honey color. Or, another brand of 
> leather saddle. If I don't find a trade I will sell this like new C17 in 
> box.
> Thanks,
> Doug
> Athens, GA
>

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Re: [RBW] Bike to Ride 70 Miles On

[Jeffrey Arita]

Congratulations on completing the birthday ride!  I agree, any bicycle will 
do.  

This:  * >   Time and determination are key  I think   <*

All the Best,

Jeff & Lori
Claremont, CA

On Sunday, November 14, 2021 at 6:31:29 AM UTC-8 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:

>
> I've seen your friends on those Townies a number of times at WWL, aways do 
> a smile & a wave.
> On Sunday, November 14, 2021 at 7:48:54 AM UTC-6 Ryan wrote:
>
>> Good on you guys! made my day!
>>
>> I turn 70 next December (2022)...maybe I'll make that a goal! I'm sure 
>> your wife and her friend were glad you came along. If I was doing something 
>> like this, I'd want company too...and it doesn't matter how long it takes. 
>> Ideally I'd do some kind of out-and-back  into the wind in the AM and 
>> tailwind for the PM but sometimes it doesn't work out that way. I'd have to 
>> work up to it , though
>>
>> Yes, Rivs are fine bikes. I'd probably use my Road with drop bars...my 
>> other ones have moustache and choco; after 50 miles I'm missing drop bars.
>>
>> But enough about me...congratulations to all of you!
>>
>> Ryan in Winnipeg
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, November 13, 2021 at 11:00:06 PM UTC-6 Lucky wrote:
>>
>>> That’s rad!
>>> Those Electra pedal-forward bikes have kept my in laws able to bike into 
>>> their 70’s.
>>> My mom finally overcame her personal feelings associated with trikes, 
>>> and bought one last year (her balance is poor following an injury). Now she 
>>> rides that trike whenever the weather allows and just loves having the 
>>> option to bike.
>>> I agree, if you’re comfortable on a bicycle the only limit to how far 
>>> you can ride it is your own endurance. 
>>> Happy Birthday to your wife!
>>>
>>> On Nov 13, 2021, at 20:51, st nick  wrote:
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>
>>> What bike would you pick to ride 70 miles?
>>>
>>> Some of you probably regularly do that distance.
>>>
>>> My regular range is 20 to 40 miles.
>>>
>>> It's been a long time since I rode 70 miles and I was a much younger 
>>> fellow.
>>>
>>> I think about any Rivendell model is up to the task.
>>>
>>> Of course a lot depends on the rider and if they are up to the task.
>>>
>>> Some might choose their lightest and/or fastest bike.
>>>
>>> I pose this question to see what people think and there will likely be a 
>>> lot of different view points about it.
>>>
>>> I learned something today.
>>> A bike one wouldn't necessarily think would be a good candidate for that 
>>> mileage can still work.
>>>
>>> My wife and her good friend decided they wanted to make a 70 mile 
>>> attempt today to celebrate my wife turning 70.
>>>
>>> I'm along for the ride and mechanical support if needed.
>>>
>>> I admit was a bit skeptical as they haven't been doing a great deal of 
>>> riding the last few months  perhaps in the range of 30 or so per week.
>>>
>>> Heck, I didn't even know if I could make it that far.
>>>
>>> Also they have comfort style Electra  Townie and Trek Pure bikes. (Very 
>>> similar...I think Trek bought Electra) not exactly light weights. They have 
>>> that pedal forward design in which the bottom bracket and crank are 3 or so 
>>> inches forward of the seat tube.
>>>
>>> This allows a rider to have their saddle at the correct height but put 
>>> their foot on the ground without getting off the saddle. 
>>>
>>> Cool design for certain riders, I think, especially older people of 
>>> which our group of 3 are getting into that category.
>>>
>>>
>>> One is geared 1x7 and one a 2x7 and both have grip shifts.
>>>
>>> I should have probably taken my Sam Hillbourne but we needed a basket to 
>>> carry stuff so I grabbed my 1990 Miele mtb I had converted to urban cruiser 
>>> and grocery getter. It's very comfortable and has a pretty relaxed 
>>> geometry. 
>>>
>>> I think around 40 miles was my previous longest distance on it.
>>>
>>> I keep all 3 bicycles pretty well maintained. 
>>>
>>> It started out at around 40 degrees and we had to layer up for the start 
>>> and have somewhere to carry layers we would take off later in the day as 
>>> well as snacks and extra water.
>>>
>>> Well , we made it 73 miles on those bikes.
>>>
>>> It took practically all day as we only averaged 10.3 mph ,so around 7 
>>> hours ride time and around 2 or a bit more hours down time for lunch and 4 
>>> or 5 breaks.
>>>
>>> Gosh, this is long.
>>>
>>> We are all exhausted and exhilarated and a bit giddy we actually did it 
>>> being our age and I'm a year older.
>>>
>>> I'm feeling blessed to still be able to do it.
>>>
>>> Slow riders on not fast bikes and perhaps not optimum bikes can still do 
>>> it.
>>> Time and determination are key  I think.
>>>
>>> Safe riding, 
>>>
>>> Paul in Dallas
>>>
>>> <2023_215215.jpg>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> .
>>>
>>> -- 
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>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, 

[RBW] Re: Night riding

[Jeffrey Arita]

Bones,

Thank you for sharing.  I, too, have been guilty of not donning all the 
gear one normally does.  The palms thing really stuck in my mind.  Thanks 
again for the kind reminders!!

All the Best,

Jeff
Claremont, CA 

On Tuesday, November 9, 2021 at 9:04:43 PM UTC-8 Bones wrote:

> I too commute year-round and I ride primarily at night. I work evenings 
> and nights and commute via bicycle, and I've been doing so for about ten 
> years so I'll add some safety tips. I took a pretty nasty midnight spill 
> back in May. I took a right hand turn a bit too close to the curb and could 
> not see the thin layer of gravel/sand on the street. It was pitch black, no 
> cars around, I had a dynamo on the bike, and I was traveling at about 
> 15mph. Still didn't see it. The bike went out from under me and I skid 
> about 15ft. So lesson number one was to slow down on the turns and take 'em 
> wide. The bike was almost completely unharmed, except for a minor scuff to 
> the left grip and a lovely new red paint job, courtesy of my palms. Plenty 
> of bruising and scrapes but mostly on my hands, which I suppose 
> instinctively did their job. I went back the next day to collect the pieces 
> of my apple watch, which did a fantastic job protecting my wrist. That was 
> lesson number two: always wear gloves. After I got up and realized how bad 
> it was I reached into my BananaSax and pulled out a bandana, which made a 
> great tourniquet. I wish I had packed two though, as both palms were in 
> very bad shape. Lesson number three: always pack a few bandanas.
>
> I'm not adding this to discourage anyone from riding at night, I just hope 
> other folks can learn from my mistakes. I love riding at night, especially 
> late. Few cars, no sounds... it's a whole different world. Like Roberta 
> stated: very stress relieving and soothing. *Especially* after work.
>
> Bones
>
> On Tuesday, November 9, 2021 at 5:35:57 AM UTC-5 ascpgh wrote:
>
>> I like to separate the arms race of lumens and reflective area on my 
>> night rides. They are slower, tend to last longer if I'm not on a to-bed 
>> schedule for early wake up. Not so concerning after this weekend. I was at 
>> the dog park with my pup and before I really took note of the sunset. 64° 
>> was headed for the 40°s under the clear skies and I was in shorts, T-shirt 
>> and a shell.
>>
>> I've reported on night rides around here before, where there are 
>> definitely two cultures of dark riding. One that starts around the corner 
>> from my house has been more of a Dirty Dozen Bike Race 
>>  training ride and has been running three 
>> sadomasochistic hours and thirty miles weekly. The other began with my 
>> friend and me after the regular riding season meeting at that coffee shop 
>> ended in October. We meander, we invite new to the dark riders, we go 
>> places the high tempo riders skip for better paces and miles while they 
>> train for the Dirty Dozen bike Race originated by ultra rider Danny Chew. 
>> They all tend to be on their road racing bikes with battery lights. I have 
>> evolved (over 25? years) to dyno hubs, wired LED head and taillights, 
>> carrying a rechargeable set to back others up in case of a fail. Don't like 
>> phantom bikes around me unless we're clustering around a rider who's 
>> batteries died. A few of us continue into the bad weather, be it wet or 
>> cold. It adds to the challenging character of night riding. Headlights 
>> redefine a place you ride in the daylight, focussing on what's important 
>> and redefining all else. 
>>
>> I like to include photo stops, curious passageways, local sights and 
>> surprising connections. Food and drink often involved. Too hard for new 
>> initiates to dark riding to grasp the fast cool of darkness mentioned by 
>> Denis in NC and adequately provide for full spectrum physical output so we 
>> try not to get too sweat soaked at any point although everyone's experience 
>> (effort/perspiration) will vary on any given hill so accommodation is my 
>> byword. I like to have a big enough bag on my bike to carry extra layers 
>> ("normalizing" items for a restaurant) and a lock for stops.
>>
>> I commute year round and my days begin and end with my rides before 
>> sunrise and after sunset for all but about three months and a week or so of 
>> the year. I pedal each leg allowing myself to be amazed and let some 
>> wonderment into my head. One neighborhood on my route has made quite a 
>> resurgence in the fifteen years I've been pedaling through it. Businesses 
>> have anchored, people have reason to be there and a core of artisans have 
>> been promoting a "First Fridays" evening sidewalk festival for years now 
>> with businesses open sidestreets marketplaces sprouted for the night adding 
>> to the resident restaurants, coffee shops, a tea house and microbrewery. 
>> Takes all the stress from work out of my head or clears it to begin another 
>> day.  
>>
>> From rides 

Re: [RBW] Re: Goathead immunity

[Jeffrey Arita]

Patrick,

Congrats - you (have been) and are realizing the benefits of tubeless 
tires.  I 100% agree that there is a lot of knowledge (and potential 
frustation) learning about these new-fangled tubeless tires.  But now that 
you *know *how to do it, they will continue to provide the benefits you 
describe.

One day when we were riding into Silver City (NM) I heard a strange noise 
emanating from my rear wheel.  Nothing felt out of place so I ignored it.  
We got to our motel for the afternoon and setled inI then examined my 
bike and saw a *lot *of *Stan's* on the back of my seat tube (white 
globules).  Tire was holding air, although it was a bit softer than 
normal.  I must have picked up some nasty crap that caused the sealant to 
fly around like that.  I added some air and all was good (had to eventually 
buy a new replacement tire in Salida, CO).

About a month ago I was coaching a good buddy of ours on how to go about 
doing tubeless conversions (from afar).  Yes, lots and lots of frustation 
and I could hear him saying in his head "is this worth all the hassle?"  
Well, you just summed it all up with the numerous goatheads you just added 
to your *collection*.  Can you imagine having to patch up the inner 
tube???  What??  You've got to be joking!! 

How often do I add sealant?  Great question.  I definitely add sealant 
before a cyclo-tour or some such thing and a bit of time has passed (maybe 
several months).  Perhaps a bit sooner if we've had hot and dry weather (we 
are in Southern California).  FYI: we now have experience with Stan's, 
Orange Seal (both standard and endurance) and now Panaracer Seal Smart.  
Stan's and OS (both) have worked well and are very easy to add via the 
tubeless valve stem (with valve core removed).  I've found Panaracer Seal 
Smart somewhat harder to add via the tubeless valve stem because the 
ground-up walnut shells can clog the stem.  I use an old spoke to push 
anything that might have gotten clogged in the stem to clear it (yeah, 
another pain in the arse).

Later,

Jeff (will be in Crested Butte for a few days to leaf peep)


On Saturday, September 25, 2021 at 12:39:34 PM UTC-6 Patrick Moore wrote:

> First, an update: the Big Ones (again, these are 29 1/2" tall, 62 mm wide, 
> and weight *450 grams each*) each have a dozen or so thorns embedded in 
> the tread with tops broken off; no air loss. 2-3 fl oz each tire of OS 
> Endurance, which is said to take longer to evaporate than OS regular.
>
> I schedule replenishment every 3 months or so for tubeless tires, though 
> usually what happens is that I forget, and only notice that the sealant has 
> evaporated when I get flats that don't seal; fortunately, these have all 
> been slow leaks, so I can generally limp home by stopping and pumping.
>
> Endurance doesn't clump; I get a skin and strings of dried sealant which I 
> don't bother with unless I have to open the tire for some other reason.
>
> OS regular in tubes takes a year or more to dry out; I just added more to 
> one or 2 tubes after a flat or 2 would not seal, and it had probably been 
> 18 or 24 months since I had first added the OS regular. (OS Endurance 
> doesn't work in tubes, IME.) I've not had OS clump in tubes the way Stan's 
> did.
>
> On Sat, Sep 25, 2021 at 10:47 AM A. Douglas M.  wrote:
>
>> Patrick,
>>
>> This year’s crop is indeed bountiful. Last week I got a tire full and 
>> made it home only to find that tire (29x2.5 surly ET) flat the following 
>> day. I believe my orange seal dried out.
>>
>> Just two days ago I got a few goat heads in my 650b WTB resolutes. I knew 
>> this occurred because I got a nice spray of OS all over my hand and leg. It 
>> did seal up on its own. A few pumps of the mini pump had me back on the 
>> road, and that tire stayed inflated as of this morning.
>>
>> How often do you top off your sealant? How often do you scrape out old 
>> boogers?
>>
>> I think tubeless is a requirement in goathead country. Riding is not 
>> enjoyable when having to fix 3+ tubes per ride.
>>
>> Best,
>>
>> Aaron in El Paso 
>>
>> On Friday, September 24, 2021 at 8:07:47 PM UTC-6 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> This evening I did a combined pavement and dirt ride on my "road bike 
>>> for dirt" Chauncey Matthews bilaminate custom, on a route including nearby 
>>> acequia roads, Paseo Bike Path, Rio Grand Boulevard, Los  Poblanos open 
>>> space, Montano Boulevard. 
>>>
>>> This years's goathead crop is a stunner. I took a shortcut from Los 
>>> Poblanos to RG Boulevard that took me over a few hundred feet of goathead 
>>> carpet -- I could hear the tires crunching over the thorns as they picked 
>>> them up, and the scraping of the embedded thorns against the underside of 
>>> the Kelpie fenders. Sure enough, as I turned left onto RGB, I saw dozens of 
>>> thorns embedded in the extra light Schwalbe Big One front (450 grams, 62 mm 
>>> actual on 35 mm outer width rims).
>>>
>>> But I made it home and just now, 3 hours 

[RBW] Re: Do you use a torque wrench? Or are they a

[Jeffrey Arita]

John,

I've used a Park Tool TW-5.x torque wrench for several years now, since 
2016 or so (knock wood).   IME what you've experienced is not at all 
normal.  I'm sure you are aware, but Park has an unofficial guarantee.  If 
you kindly tell them that a Park Tool tool you own just isn't up to snuff 
(with an explanation), they will likely send you a free replacement.  

The primary reason I use one is bicycle fasteners are quite small and I 
just don't have the touch to know what is *close* to reasonable tightness.  
I am especially careful around threadless stems (steerer tube and handlebar 
settings).  The majority of bikes we have are steel steerer tubes with 
aluminum alloy stems and handlebars.  I am simply trying to stay within the 
torque *range *that is recommended.  I figure if I do that with all of the 
parts attached to a frameset, then I should have reasonable confidence that 
the bicycle will stay together.

Best regards,

Jeff

On Friday, September 24, 2021 at 2:22:24 PM UTC-6 John Phillips wrote:

>Just found my 2nd torque wrench has died, after less than ten uses, 
> after being properly stored, in a dry place, in its box, with the tension 
> relaxed.
>
>I started putting my Effetto Mariposa through the warm up calibration, 
> and no clicks at 16Nm nor 3 Nm nor any Nm setting. I wanted to install a 
> Paul Boxcar stem on my Hunq, my first 31.8mm stem, and I wanted to get it 
> right, but now I'm left with just my own wrenching touchy feelyness.
>
>My Park Tools torque wench was dead on arrival, and now my second much 
> more pricey Effetto Mariposa has abandoned its mortal coil and left me 
> checking the REI return policy. What gives? Is the normal? I have trout 
> flies that have lasted longer! Jeez! I still use my first, now 52 years 
> old, fiberglass fly rod. I know I'm not Godzilla.
>
>Are there any reliable torque wrenches out there for 3-5.5Nm wrenching, 
> or are they just a waste of money if you're a careful mechanic?
>
> Sorry for the ranting, but I'd really like to know what you all depend on.
>
> Thanks, John
>

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[RBW] Re: Any former paper boys (or girls) on this list?

[Jeffrey Arita]

Yep, I had my fair share of folks claiming "they just didn't have the $3.35 
this month" kind of game.  I believed them and I just kept returning.  As 
duly noted, my fellow paper-dude buddy (the one who gave me his part of the 
route) told me flatly "just throw the paper on the roof - they'll get the 
message."  It was almost a game.  I didn't know the rules.

Hopefully many here will recall this recurring scene from Better Off Dead:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iayLBI7nsE0

Jeff

On Wednesday, September 8, 2021 at 11:03:23 AM UTC-7 ericyue...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> I delivered the San Mateo (California) Times as a preteen in the early 
> 90s.  I started out on a shitty Schwinn BMX knockoff with coaster brakes 
> and used my first few month's wages to buy a Gary Fisher Hoo Koo E Koo on 
> layaway.  I threw papers onto porches and driveways out of a bag that 
> attached to my handlebars and delivered six days a week.  I'm glad to hear 
> I wasn't the only sucker pulled into being an unwitting "independent 
> contractor"; to this day I still think about the sort of shitbag you have 
> to be to keep ducking a 12 year old looking for the $6 you owe him for your 
> daily paper.  Somehow, this was about half the folks on my route. 
>
> On Wednesday, September 8, 2021 at 10:17:33 AM UTC-7 John Hawrylak wrote:
>
>> With the number of responses indicating carrying the papers in a front 
>> basket, or the bags slung over the bars, we should have been using the 
>> French style low trial  geometry like those guys delivering the papers to 
>> French news stands.   I'll like to see them deliver the Thursday afternoon 
>> editions, typically the day with the heaviest advertisements, other than 
>> Sunday and the Wednesday before Thanksgiving.   
>>
>> John Hawrylak
>> Woodstown NJ
>>
>> On Wednesday, September 8, 2021 at 12:19:46 PM UTC-4 Scott Calhoun wrote:
>>
>>> It is interesting how varied the methods of carrying the papers are. I 
>>> used canvas bags looped around the front of the wide steel cruiser bars not 
>>> too dissimilar in shape from some of the recent Riv handlebar offerings. In 
>>> the back, Wald baskets. On days with thick papers, I'd load both baskets, 
>>> and the front bags, and then stack papers between the two baskets in back 
>>> and throw those first. 
>>>
>>> I never used the canvas bags that you wore over your head--mostly 
>>> because the older kid I inherited the route from taught me his way and I 
>>> just stayed with it. If I was doing a route now on a bike, I'd take the 
>>> Quickbeam with front basket--I think the papers are so slim these days that 
>>> I could fit twice or three times as many papers in the same space I used in 
>>> the 70s-80s. 
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, September 8, 2021 at 8:33:39 AM UTC-7 Lefebeaver wrote:
>>>
 I delivered papers 6 days a week for the Portsmouth (NH) Herald. I went 
 by bicycle unless the snow was very, very deep. I think it's influenced my 
 lifelong attitude, which jives with the Riv philosophy, that a bicycle 
 should be outfitted to be as robust and useful as possible, and carry 
 anything. And I could go right out this afternoon on my Atlantis and 
 deliver papers - it's perfectly set up for it! 

 On Monday, September 6, 2021 at 12:11:33 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Dave Moulton has an interesting little post on his blog today about 
> the disappearance of the paper boy. I don't recall ever having seen 
> one except (always!) in movies, but then we lived when I was a boy in 
> the US in what was still a semi rural area, and the rest of the time 
> overseas. All the newspaper deliverers I've seen have been middle aged 
> people in cars. 
>
>
> http://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com/blog/2021/9/6/the-newspaper-boy.html 
>
> I do recall working followup for the 1990 census on a bike! (I did 
> similar work for the 1980 census in my car in a very rural part of NW 
> Georgia; now that was interesting -- like Deliverance except that the 
> people were very nice, even though I was -- to them -- a Yankee 
> Oriental who was asking way too many personal questions.) 
>
>
>
> -- 
>
> --- 
>
> Patrick Moore 
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum 
>


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[RBW] Re: Any former paper boys (or girls) on this list?

[Jeffrey Arita]

I had a paper route starting in 1976 to late 1977 (junior high school 
years).  Number of papers (The Ontario, CA-based *Daily Report, *long since 
swallowed up into another owner and name) varied between 25 to 27, IIRC.  
It was $3.35 per month and it was many times a bear to collect those funds 
from some folks.  My buddy who gave me that part of the route simply 
advised me to "throw the paper on the roof - you can say you *delivered *it."  
I never had the heart to do so - I guess in retrospect I should have thrown 
it on the roof!
 
So my route covered several very flat miles (rural housing with mild 
traffic) so I *inherited* my middle brother's Schwinn Varsity 10-speed (you 
know, the green one).  The bicycle obviously made deliveries easy *and *fast.  
An interesting factoid: I don't think I ever got a flat tire on that 
bike(!).  In fact, I rode that darned thing sometimes to and from Junior 
High School.  Never carried a pump, tools or spares.  Sheesh!

Carried the papers in a canvas double-pouched bag (front and back).  Loaded 
up the papers to be balanced.  When the front pouch was empty I would 
rotate it around for the remaining batch of papers (all on the fly while 
rolling).  For this paper, it was 7 days per week and the Sunday Edition 
(typically dropped off Saturday evening) was extra thick and heavy, loaded 
with advertisements and coupons.  I disliked Sunday mornings, but it was 
what it was.  My route was in Southern California where it rarely rained, 
but when it did I had to place each paper in a plastic bag and wrap it with 
a rubber band.  Took extra time to obviously do that.  The Sunday edition 
would barely fit inside those plastic bags.

It was a daily chore (Monday through Friday was always after school) and 
because I threw relatively few papers, I ended up earning only about $1 per 
day.  I had to pay all costs (wholesale cost of papers, plastic bags, 
rubber bands, etc.) upfront.  After paying those bills and collecting what 
was owed me, I simply kept the surplus.  It ended up being about +$27 per 
month.  I do recall that the guy who delivered the bulk papers to me was an 
*older* college kid.  He was amazing as he would always deliver my bundle 
early - it would always be sitting outside our door when I got off the 
school bus or rode home (on my brother's Schwinn Varsity).

I can understand today why one has to do it in a vehicle: that person 
probably delivers hundreds, if not thousands per day, all over a large 
geographical region.

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Monday, September 6, 2021 at 9:11:33 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Dave Moulton has an interesting little post on his blog today about
> the disappearance of the paper boy. I don't recall ever having seen
> one except (always!) in movies, but then we lived when I was a boy in
> the US in what was still a semi rural area, and the rest of the time
> overseas. All the newspaper deliverers I've seen have been middle aged
> people in cars.
>
> http://davesbikeblog.squarespace.com/blog/2021/9/6/the-newspaper-boy.html
>
> I do recall working followup for the 1990 census on a bike! (I did
> similar work for the 1980 census in my car in a very rural part of NW
> Georgia; now that was interesting -- like Deliverance except that the
> people were very nice, even though I was -- to them -- a Yankee
> Oriental who was asking way too many personal questions.)
>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>

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[RBW] Re: Parts bin clean out: Nitto S65, Shimano derailers, R599 front brakes, Schwalbe G-one Speed tires, ergon, pletscher, sunrace

[Jeffrey Arita]

Hi Abe,

PM sent on several items.  Thank you,

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Sunday, September 5, 2021 at 10:43:59 AM UTC-7 Pancake wrote:

> Updated to add a link with photos of the SKS P45 fenders for sale ($20) - 
> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bop/d/napa-bike-fenders-sks-p45-longboards/7376058451.html
> Already some interest in the seatpost and pedals, locals please reach out 
> so I can avoid the post office! 
> Take care,
> Abe
>
> On Sunday, 5 September 2021 at 10:15:49 UTC-7 Pancake wrote:
>
>> These are all bits that were on or meant for my Rivendells (Sam, Cheviot, 
>> Rosco Baby) or similar bikes (Jamis steel frame bikes since donated to 
>> friends). Links to Craigslist posts with some more details and PHOTOS. 
>> Price is before shipping, local pick up (in SF Bay Area, *Napa*, Sonoma, 
>> or Berkeley) is preferred. 
>>
>> Make me an offer for multiples or if my prices seem off. 
>>
>> Seat Post: Nitto S65 Crystal Fellow 27.2mm x 250mm long - zig zag marks 
>> on the lower half of the post from inserting/removing it. *($40* 
>> 
>> *)*
>>
>> Cassettes:  
>> 
>>
>>- Sunrace MX8 NEW 11 speed, Silver, 11-46t ($60)
>>- Shimano LIKE NEW CS-HG200, 9-Speed, 11-32 teeth *($10)*
>>
>> Bike Mirror 
>> 
>> : Mirrycle Mountain *($7* 
>> 
>> *)*
>>
>> Bottom brackets:  
>> 
>>
>>- *2 x *Shimano UN55 
>>
>> 
>> - 68 x 110mm  
>>
>> 
>>*($15)*
>>- Tange BB 68 x 107mm - *($* 
>>
>> *1
>>  
>>with any other item)*
>>
>> Tektro Cable Hanger, *new* in the bag, 1" with barrel adjuster, 
>> cantilever *($6* 
>> 
>> *)*
>>
>> Derailers: 
>> 
>>
>>- Shimano Tiagra 
>>
>> 
>>  Silver RD-4500 
>>9-speed long cage *($15)* - if this fits your cassette or you want to 
>>use with a roadlink extender, it's a very nice polished looking derailer, 
>>I'd use a melamine sponge to remove the branding for full silver polished 
>>look.
>>- Alivio rear RD-M4000 -  
>>
>> 
>>*($15)* - came off a nearly unused Kona Coco, nice chain wrap and 
>>gear range.
>>- Suntour front derailer double road - worked nicely to shift a 
>>46/30t double crankset. *($5)*
>>
>> Delta Cycle Stem Raiser Riser Pro Extender Head Up *($10* 
>> 
>> *)*
>>
>> MKS large toe clips pair - straps and bolts included *($15)* 
>> 
>> MKS Sylvian touring pedals 9/16” *($20* 
>> 
>> *)*
>>
>> TwoFish The Quick Vinyl Coated Cage *($10* 
>> 
>> *)*
>>
>> JTEK ShiftMate 6 - cable pull modifier *($40* 
>> 
>> *)* - This model is for mating Shimano shifters with SRAM 1:1 
>> derailleurs or SRAM non-road shifters with Shimano derailleurs. It will 
>> also let you run Shimano 10 speed road STI with Shimano MTN 10 Dyna-Sys 
>> derailleurs and Shimano or SRAM cassettes.
>>
>> Sunrace v-brake levers silver from Rivendell *($20* 
>> 
>> *)* - V-brake linear pull levers. *Silver* model from Sunrace make for 
>> Rivendell. Nearly new looking. Came on the used set of Tosco bars from 
>> Rivendell a couple months ago. 
>>
>> Brakes: 
>> 
>>
>>- Tektro r559 - *two* FRONT brakes, side pull dual pivot caliper 
>>brakes. Recessed nut. Come with Kool Stop inserts in Tektro holders. *$30 
>>each.*
>>- Tektro Oryx - front and rear pairs, cantilever 

[RBW] Re: Rack recommendation

[Jeffrey Arita]

Matthew,

We use a Yakima-brand roof-type rack atop our 2004 Honda Accord.  We 
originally purchased that system back in 1989 (yes, they last a long 
time).  In transferring that system from vehicle to vehicle, we purchased 
IIRC *Q-clips* or some other such thing.  Parts that were *specific *to 
that vehicle.  This system was not inexpensive because we had to buy the 
towers, the clips and the crossbars.  After that, you then had to buy the 
specific sport attachment, in this case a bicycle rack.  One of the reasons 
we did do this was we enjoyed snow skiing (at that time) and so we 
purchased snow ski mounts as well.  One could also buy a space case, a 
basket or a canoe/kayak carrier.

For now, we have two single bicycle carrier trays and fork mounts 
(Yakima-brand) where you do have to remove the front wheel (downside).  The 
forks are secured by a quick-release lever and the rear tire rides inside 
the carrier tray.  A ratcheting strap secures the tire (and thus the rear 
of the bicycle).  Very secure (upside).  We've transported a pair of 
bicycles in very strong crosswinds at highway speeds (65 - 70 mph) without 
incident.  We also have a Yakima-brand tandem carrier.  Also very secure.  
The tandem's bottom tube rides in a support which is then secured with two 
(2) ratcheting straps.  The front wheel is removed and the fork is secured 
with a very large diameter axle quick release.

The biggest downside to a roof-mounted rack is if one forgets that a 
bicycle is riding on top and you drive into your garage.  I did this once 
and yes, it is heart-breaking.  Not only the damage to the bike, but to the 
car, rack and garage.  Luckily for me, that one time it only caused minor 
damage.  But yeah, that is a very serious downside.  As others have 
suggested, if you put a bike atop your rack you could place an object 
inside your garage preventing you from unconsciously driving into your 
garage.  Or you could unplug your garage door opener or some other such 
idea.

Since you currently have a new vehicle which kinda sits low (not like an 
SUV), you might want to consider a roof-mounted rack system.  Again, not 
inexpensive but if you need to transport your bikes to and from venues, it 
is a pretty secure way to do so. 

Good luck,

Jeff
Claremont, CA



On Saturday, August 14, 2021 at 2:26:53 PM UTC-7 Matthew Williams wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> My wife and I need a bike rack for her 2020 Honda Fit.
>
> I'm assuming the best/most secure racks are roof-mounted.
>
> Please post your opinions, pros and cons, experiences, etc. What do you 
> folks use and recommend?
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Berthoud, Ostrich, Thomson, Paul

[Jeffrey Arita]

Hi Ed,

I sent a PM regarding item 5 (Paul Thumbies).  Thanks,

Jeff Arita
Claremont, CA

On Tuesday, July 27, 2021 at 12:35:36 PM UTC-7 Ed Felker wrote:

> Here are bags and parts that need to go. The bags were on occasional-use 
> bikes. Photos here: https://bit.ly/3iLxVuA
>
> Details: Prices do not include actual UPS ground shipping from Washington, 
> DC. USA addresses only. Paypal f/f preferred. Local pickup/handoff can be 
> arranged. 
>
> 1. Berthoud GB 192 front bag, with strap. Gray. Very good lightly used 
> condition, with a small hole in the underside where a bolt was used to help 
> secure it to a front rack. Strap included. $100.
>
> 2. Klikfix fork and adapter for the GB 192, new, never installed. $25.
>
> 3. Berthoud mini 86 bag. Gray. A stylish little bag. $75.
>
> 4. Ostrich S-2 saddle bag and seatpost support rack. Green. The internal 
> stiffener worked its way through the fabric, which left a small cut that 
> can be seen in the photos. I used the stiffener inside the bag under the 
> straps. $70 for bag and rack. 
>
> 5. Paul thumbies shifter mounts for MTB bars, 22.2 size. Black. Unused. 
> $45.
>
> 6. Thomson Elite 250mm straight post. *27.4 size.* Note the unusual size. 
> New, never installed. $50.
>
>
> thanks, 
> Ed Felker
> Washington, DC 
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Comebacks for when people think your bikes cost too much

[Jeffrey Arita]

I 100% agree with Joel Stern - better to simply not state how much it 
cost.  Cost, like many things, is relative.  What is inexpensive for some 
is extravagant for others.  Keep the cost private.

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Sunday, June 27, 2021 at 8:43:51 PM UTC-7 Joel S wrote:

> Of the few people I have told about the cost of the bikes I have only a 
> couple get it, one is a bike guy.  Most people will not get it.  It’s the 
> same with guitars, cameras, etc.  Best to not discuss with those that 
> really do not get it.  For most $1,000 is an extravagant bike.  Jewelry, 
> watches, best not to discuss.  
>
> On Sunday, June 27, 2021 at 11:12:57 PM UTC-4 Kushan wrote:
>
>> Wife and recently marked the 10th anniversary and decided to get each 
>> other nice presents. She is getting me an Appaloosa built and I got her 
>> something she really wanted in the jewelry department (of 20-30% higher 
>> value than the bike). 
>>
>> We are both financially responsible people, don't live lavishly, and can 
>> afford both items. However, the reactions of the friends and family who 
>> hear about our gifts and their values have been somewhat puzzling for me. 
>> While no one has given a second thought to the price of the jewelry, the 
>> reactions on the bike have almost universally been that of astonishment. 
>> And these are from people who know me well, know I enjoy cycling, and that 
>> I only have one bike right now which I am planning to sell when the new one 
>> arrives.
>>
>> So that got me thinking, I can't be the only one who has experienced 
>> this. What are some other similar stories? More importantly, what do you 
>> say to a well-meaning loved one when they ask things like "$3500 for a 
>> bike?" and "but isn't your current bike orange too?"
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Phone holder preferences

[Jeffrey Arita]

Quad Lock is our choice.  Combined with the QL case or the adhesive 
adapter, these things have been *Lock* steady (he he) over thousands of 
miles of cyclo-touring (off and on-road).  And no, we do not work for Quad 
Lock.

We realize it is pricey but one needs to keep in mind how valuable one's 
mobile phone is (beyond just the initial price).  One's mobile device 
serves so many purposes.

Good luck,

Jeff & Lori
Claremont, CA

On Sunday, June 13, 2021 at 7:27:17 AM UTC-7 Robert Blunt wrote:

> Hello everyone,
> I have a Samsung Galaxy note which is a rather large phone. I am looking 
> for suggestion about handlebar holders you have tried and liked. 
> Robert Blunt
> Pennington, NJ
>

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Re: [RBW] Things You Might Like

[Jeffrey Arita]

+1 on the Quad Lock!  Amazingly reliable means to secure a smartphone.

Here are a couple:

- Rok Straps.  IMHO should be considered standard equipment if 
bikepacking/cyclo-touring/grocery-getting/commuting.  More than once we 
carried back to our campsite a stack of firewood on a Tubus rack.  

- Voile Straps.  Combined with manythings/anything cages will secure large 
objects to a bike.  Relied on one to secure an MSR water purifier for an 
off-road adventure (GDMBR).

Cheers,

Jeff
Claremont, cA

On Friday, May 28, 2021 at 4:58:26 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Things I like and must have on my custom: 
>
> 1. Quad Lock phone mount. This is the motorcycle version for bars (cuz I 
> have lots of room), they make a stem mount for bikes, too. It's expensive 
> and worth every penny, I probably spent more on cheap ones that vibrated 
> and drove me crazy and I tossed em. 
>
> 2. Road Runner Burrito Supreme bar bag: holds my keys, wallet, reading 
> glasses (for said phone), tools and whatnot. And holds its shape empty, I 
> love it. 
>
> 3. My trusty German mirror. Which probably has a real name but Grant calls 
> it a German mirror and that's what it is to me. And I'm just noticing that 
> this one is cracked, I need a new German mirror! 
>
> 4. I'm afraid none of these things are darling cuz I'm a big tough manly 
> man (藍), but I'm thinking my cracked German mirror could use a darling 
> Platypus sticker. Then my droptoptube custom can be an honorary Platy!  * 
>
> * Joe goes looking on the Etsy places for stickers
>
> On Friday, May 28, 2021 at 12:55:37 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>
>> 
>> 3rd time’s the charm on these photos…sorry!
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On May 28, 2021, at 12:29 PM, lucky...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> I can’t ride happily without one of my handlebar water bottle bags. I 
>> have fun ones from Cycle Cats, Oveja Negra, and Greg Newland. Here is my 
>> Atlantis with my Oveja Negra bag, which holds a 32oz Hydroflask with room 
>> to spare. 
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>> On May 28, 2021, at 12:04, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding!  
>> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> <61EFBF0A-CF73-46E8-A772-9945FE80A017.jpeg>
>> <0DDE862C-5234-4CFD-A788-FFA8CDD1DBDD.jpeg>
>> This will be a delightful and useful thread. What things do you have on 
>> your bike that you find dead useful? Bonus points if it is also darling.
>>
>> I’ll go first. 
>>
>> I have done away with bottle cages in favor of Randi Jo Bartender Plus 
>> bags. I like to carry a Hydroflask and her bags take both 32 and 40 oz 
>> bottles. I recently got a new Hydroflask with a straw lid and now I can sip 
>> water right out of the bottle without pulling it out of the bag. Bonus 
>> points: the vinyl Platypus sticker.
>>
>> Leah
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>> <61EFBF0A-CF73-46E8-A772-9945FE80A017.jpeg>
>> <0DDE862C-5234-4CFD-A788-FFA8CDD1DBDD.jpeg>
>>
>> -- 
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Re: [RBW] Clothing for hot and humid riding

[Jeffrey Arita]

Eric,

Yeah, us being from Southern California, we don't turn on our A/C until it 
hits at least +85 degrees F.  OTOH, we are wimps when it comes to *winter* 
if you can call it that.  We have restaurants that have outdoor heating if 
the temperature drops down to a *chilly* +65 degrees F.  Most folks in the 
Upper Midwest would likely call it a nice summer evening and put on shorts 
and a t-shirt with flip-flops.

If touring in middle-of-nowhere I highly recommend lighweight Merino wool.  
Being of the lightweight variety it isn't too hot to wear and it dries out 
*quickly 
*if left in the sun (after washing).  It is anti-microbial and it doesn't 
smell as Joe M. points out.  Wool top + wool boxers at least for me was a 
great combo.  One could go for multiple days without having to bathe (had 
to purify water for drinking and cooking only).  This was a great combo for 
the Great Divide where services were relatively far apart.  Smartwool was 
where we bought most of the our clothes from.

Be advised that many call their garments *wool* when in fact they are 
wool-blends.  To get the less-stinky garment, it is important to get a 
mostly if not 100% wool garment.

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Thursday, May 27, 2021 at 6:51:58 AM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> Thanks, all. 
>
> Steve -- Thanks for the tip on the shorts. On special for $38 and made in 
> Oregon, will have to give them a shot! 
>
> Doug -- I hear ya on the seersucker, thanks! I know Grant loves it for hot 
> weather. 
>
> Jeff -- the soaked-through cotton tee is a tricky one! That chill you 
> mention is something I dread. Also once the shirt becomes soaked I struggle 
> with the weight and sag of the fabric. 
>
> On Thursday, May 27, 2021 at 9:18:15 AM UTC-4 Jeffrey Arita wrote:
>
>> +1 on seersucker.  I chose short sleeve + lots of sunscreen.  Extensive 
>> use in 2019 for Chicago to NYC route, starting on July 5.  Interesting 
>> aside: the shirt would be soaked and stayed reasonably cool because of the 
>> evaporative effect.  However when stepping into an air-conditioned 
>> convenience store I actually could not linger long as I would get chilled.  
>> I actually ate the snacks outside in the shade.
>>
>> YMMV.
>>
>> Jeff
>> Claremont, CA
>>
>> On Thursday, May 27, 2021 at 5:36:14 AM UTC-7 Doug Williams wrote:
>>
>>> Seersucker shirts. Long sleeve can be best for sunburn protection and 
>>> still almost as cool as short sleeve. But either way, seersucker is about 
>>> as cool as you can get.
>>>
>>> Doug
>>>
>>> On Thursday, May 27, 2021 at 4:41:38 AM UTC-7 Steven Sweedler wrote:
>>>
>>>> Try the Jackson and Gibbens touring shorts, shorter than Riv’s and very 
>>>> light and airy. 
>>>> https://www.bicycleclothing.com/Mens-Touring-Shorts.html
>>>> Steve
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, May 27, 2021 at 7:35 AM Eric Marth  wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> It's getting into the gross season here in Virginia where heat and 
>>>>> humidity blend into a delightful sludge. I'm curious to hear from members 
>>>>> about their preferred riding clothing for the heat. What's your go-to 
>>>>> deal? 
>>>>> I'm curious about comfort for longer rides (which for me are in the range 
>>>>> of 40-60 miles) in non-cycling cycling clothes. Any experienced riders 
>>>>> from 
>>>>> the Sticky States have a special blend they'd like to share? 
>>>>>
>>>>> I often ride in whatever I happen to be wearing and usually that's a 
>>>>> cotton tee and a pair of heavy canvas carpenter shorts. For longer rides 
>>>>> I 
>>>>> prefer a linen or chambray shirt. Linen, in particular, has been great. 
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm looking for some inspiration to counter my perspiration. The 
>>>>> canvas shorts are not ideal. I have two pairs of MUSA shorts from Riv but 
>>>>> for my tastes they are way too long and too baggy. I'm resistant to going 
>>>>> over to traditional jerseys and shorts, though the idea of Kucharik wool 
>>>>> shorts has caught my interest. 
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks to all in advance!
>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>&g

Re: [RBW] Clothing for hot and humid riding

[Jeffrey Arita]

+1 on seersucker.  I chose short sleeve + lots of sunscreen.  Extensive use 
in 2019 for Chicago to NYC route, starting on July 5.  Interesting aside: 
the shirt would be soaked and stayed reasonably cool because of the 
evaporative effect.  However when stepping into an air-conditioned 
convenience store I actually could not linger long as I would get chilled.  
I actually ate the snacks outside in the shade.

YMMV.

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Thursday, May 27, 2021 at 5:36:14 AM UTC-7 Doug Williams wrote:

> Seersucker shirts. Long sleeve can be best for sunburn protection and 
> still almost as cool as short sleeve. But either way, seersucker is about 
> as cool as you can get.
>
> Doug
>
> On Thursday, May 27, 2021 at 4:41:38 AM UTC-7 Steven Sweedler wrote:
>
>> Try the Jackson and Gibbens touring shorts, shorter than Riv’s and very 
>> light and airy. 
>> https://www.bicycleclothing.com/Mens-Touring-Shorts.html
>> Steve
>>
>> On Thu, May 27, 2021 at 7:35 AM Eric Marth  wrote:
>>
>>> It's getting into the gross season here in Virginia where heat and 
>>> humidity blend into a delightful sludge. I'm curious to hear from members 
>>> about their preferred riding clothing for the heat. What's your go-to deal? 
>>> I'm curious about comfort for longer rides (which for me are in the range 
>>> of 40-60 miles) in non-cycling cycling clothes. Any experienced riders from 
>>> the Sticky States have a special blend they'd like to share? 
>>>
>>> I often ride in whatever I happen to be wearing and usually that's a 
>>> cotton tee and a pair of heavy canvas carpenter shorts. For longer rides I 
>>> prefer a linen or chambray shirt. Linen, in particular, has been great. 
>>>
>>> I'm looking for some inspiration to counter my perspiration. The canvas 
>>> shorts are not ideal. I have two pairs of MUSA shorts from Riv but for my 
>>> tastes they are way too long and too baggy. I'm resistant to going over to 
>>> traditional jerseys and shorts, though the idea of Kucharik wool shorts has 
>>> caught my interest. 
>>>
>>> Thanks to all in advance!
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>> an email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
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>>>  
>>> 
>>> .
>>>
>> -- 
>> Steven Sweedler
>> Plymouth, New Hampshire
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: My Betty Foy after 10 years

[Jeffrey Arita]

Pam,

Only one word comes to my mind after reading this: R-E-S-P-E-C-T

Carry on!

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Saturday, May 15, 2021 at 6:11:15 PM UTC-7 Pam Bikes wrote:

> I wanted to share pictures of a Riv after 10 years with lots of beausage.  
> I'm terrible at Wordpress and not sure how to format it so it's cobbled 
> together but I did put all the pictures there and some fun facts.  I love 
> my bike.  It's the one thing I use everyday and enjoy riding it still.
>
> http://cltspokespeople.org/my-betty-foy-after-10-years/
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 700c Wheel recommendations

[Jeffrey Arita]

Kushan,

I am a very big fan of Velocity rims (A23s, Dyads, Fusions).  My latest 
wheelbuild used Velocity Quills (36H).  I use them on a monster cross bike 
and they are much more laterally stiff vs. the A23s (as Velocity so 
indicates).  Point and go and steering is dead-on.  Tough, I've taken them 
over rough off-road terrain.  Quills can handle tubeless tires in the range 
you are looking for (I am currently running 43mm Panaracer GravelKing SSs).

On another note I have found it very difficult to buy Velocity Quills (out 
of stock).  I resorted to purchasing what was available and I just received 
a pair of DTSwiss R460 rim-brake rims.  Dead-ringer for the Quills as far 
as profile goes.  Per the sticker on the rim, it says it can accomodate up 
to 56mm wide tires tubed or tubeless.  I paid just under $56 for each.  32 
hole max only, though.  Have your local bike shop build them up for you - 
just another option.

Best regards,

Jeff 

On Friday, May 14, 2021 at 2:01:37 PM UTC-7 Kushan wrote:

> Hi all - 
>
> I am looking for some 700c wheel recommendations for an Appaloosa build 
> project. I plan to use it for everyday recreational riding and long weekend 
> rides (50-100 miles). While most of my riding will be on paved roads, I 
> don't want to worry if I hit an occasional dirt or gravel patch on the way 
> (I currently ride a Roadini and off road riding isn't very confidence 
> inspiring). I don't plan to carry much weight on the bike but I am a heavy 
> fella (200+ lbs) so the wheel effectively will end up carrying some weight. 
> I plan to set it up as tubed but, if possible, would like to try tubeless 
> conversion in future as well (though this is not a dealbreaker). I plan to 
> run 48 - 50 mm tires. 
>
> Custom builds are out of budget so I am looking for some recommendation on 
> full wheelsets (new or used). My current top contender is Velocity 
> Cliffhangers 
> .
>  
> While this checks all the boxes above, my main concern is whether they are 
> overkill for my mostly payment riding style. 
>
> Best
> Kushan 
>

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[RBW] Re: New old ride

[Jeffrey Arita]

Excellent, Joel.  Looks like a beautiful place to ride a bicycle.  Keep it 
up!   [insert icon for two thumbs up]

Best regards,

Jeff

On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 1:02:21 PM UTC-7 Joel S wrote:

> [image: F929C578-8A29-4BB9-A7C1-2E2360EC3872.jpeg][image: 
> FA6C19E9-A648-4E7E-BDA9-49E2E5311091.jpeg][image: 
> 2750E0F7-369C-41B4-B665-829E268AFE93.jpeg]I have not done this ride in 
> over 12 years due to being off the bike for 10 then building up my legs 
> (and back).  
>
> I like it as it is mostly quiet roads, a bit of traffic here and there and 
> stupid High School students who don’t understand they need to wait for a 
> bicycle to clear an intersection.  
>
> The ride is somewhat rural with some farms and barns. Not too many anymore 
> but I did find a recently plowed field waiting to get planted.  
>
> Other than some wind the weather was perfect. 
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Help choosing brake levers for drop bars

[Jeffrey Arita]

Paul,

Given your choices above, my wife and I use TRP RRLs on the two tandems and 
a bunch of singles which have drop bars.  Nice ergo feel plus they have the 
nice brake cable release mechanism - useful for wide-ish tires.

I recently sold a set of Gran Compe 202s on iBobs.  They were ok but we 
prefer the RRLs.

Good luck,

Jeff

On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 11:17:31 AM UTC-7 Paul Richardson wrote:

> After entirely too long without, I'm building up a road bike with drop 
> bars.  I'd value any input regarding a solid choice for brake levers to go 
> on my Noodles.  Right now I've gotten as far as the TRP RRL that Riv sells, 
> or possibly the Gran Compe 202, and would be especially curious to hear 
> from anyone who has tried either or both of those.
>
> Any input is welcome and appreciated!
>
> thanks
> paul
> takoma park, md.
>

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[RBW] Re: Shortish reach drops with long returns

[Jeffrey Arita]

Kevin,

I agree with you regarding wrist position on the hoods on the Woodchippers 
- it is not the best.  IME, the wrist/hand position on the other gravel 
bars (on the hoods) are much, much better.  Our current favorite is the 
Ritchey Beacon.  We just bought a pair to install on our touring tandem.  
Good luck with your search,

Jeff

On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 7:16:42 PM UTC-7 Kevin wrote:

> Thanks for the suggestions. I'll check some of those out. 
>
> Have tried the Woodchippers and I think the drops position is awesome but 
> I don't love the wrist angle on the hoods.
>
> Would love to try the 26.0 Shakas but they seem pretty difficult to come 
> by unless somebody here is sitting on a pair.
>
> On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 12:45:26 PM UTC-5 Christopher Cote wrote:
>
>> Check out the Soma Highway One. I think that is exactly what you're 
>> looking for.
>>
>> Chris
>>
>> On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 12:52:46 PM UTC-4 Kevin wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I like the hoods position that wider, shorter reach drop bars, paired 
>>> with modern longer reach brake levers provides. However, several of the 
>>> these I've tried (Noodle 48, RM-013 (I do tend to prefer a silver 26.0 
>>> clamp)) seem to have correspondingly short returns, such that I can barely 
>>> get a full hand comfortably on the flatter portion of the drops.
>>>
>>> Lengths of the returns is not typically a measurement noted anywhere in 
>>> description/specs, so I am seeking out some real world experiences. Anybody 
>>> have similar experiences and are there bars that have worked well for you?
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Shortish reach drops with long returns

[Jeffrey Arita]

Kevin,

I have tried multiple drop bars.  I agree, specifically the Nitto Noodle 
does have shorter flatter portions on the returns.

IME, the gravel type bars have more generous *returns*.  Specifically the 
Salsa "Woodchipper", Ritchey "Beacon" and the Spank "Flare 25" bars.  IMHO, 
the Beacon and the Flare 25s place the brake levers in a more ergo position 
as well (vs. non-flared drop bars).  IME, if one places the Woodchippers at 
the recommended angle, it enables very good hand positions for climbing 
(much like bar-ends on mountain bikes).  We rode Woodchippers (on Salsa 
Fargos) on the GDMBR and they worked very, very well.

Good luck,

Jeff
Claremont, CA



On Thursday, April 22, 2021 at 9:52:46 AM UTC-7 Kevin wrote:

>
> I like the hoods position that wider, shorter reach drop bars, paired with 
> modern longer reach brake levers provides. However, several of the these 
> I've tried (Noodle 48, RM-013 (I do tend to prefer a silver 26.0 clamp)) 
> seem to have correspondingly short returns, such that I can barely get a 
> full hand comfortably on the flatter portion of the drops.
>
> Lengths of the returns is not typically a measurement noted anywhere in 
> description/specs, so I am seeking out some real world experiences. Anybody 
> have similar experiences and are there bars that have worked well for you?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Ride Report: Yakushima Island, SW Japan

[Jeffrey Arita]

John,

Thank you for this!  Your write-up and photos painted an idyllic world.  It 
looked almost like another planet.  What a way to explore.  It will 
definitely be on our bucket list.

Best regards,

Jeff
Claremont, CA USA

On Saturday, April 3, 2021 at 5:48:34 AM UTC-7 John Rinker wrote:

> I am grateful to live, teach and ramble around on my bicycle in Japan. For 
> more than 30 years my career as an International school teacher has landed 
> me in some beautiful, unique places and Japan is certainly high on my list 
> of ‘Favorite Places I Have Pitched My Tent’. Now, Yakushima Island in 
> South-Western Japan is near the top of my list of most beautiful places 
> I’ve ever ridden a bicycle.
>
> In Japan, Yakushima is well known but infrequently visited owing to its 
> remoteness. It boasts the greatest yearly rainfall in the country and is 
> home to some of the oldest living trees on the planet. Yaku-sugi, or the 
> cedars *(cryptomeria)* of Yakushima stand in ancient rainforests and the 
> oldest, Jomon-sugi, is estimated to be between 2800-7200 years old. Others, 
> Yoyoi-sugi, Bandai-sugi, and Yamato-sugi are 3000 years old. As the typical 
> life expectancy of cedar is as much as 500 years old, even the many 
> 1000-year-old cedars on the island are strange and wonderful anomalies. 
>
> In stark contrast to Yakushima Island, a World Natural Heritage site, 
> Japan’s Shinkansen, or high-speed train, is a marvel of modern 
> transportation technology. With my bike in a bag, I would travel the first 
> 1400 kilometers of my journey in about 6 hours so I could spend the next 5 
> days meandering mountain roads for 160 or so kilometers. 
>
> After a couple of nights in the port of Kagoshima and a day cycling around 
> Sakura-Jima, the most active volcano in Japan, I boarded the ferry as a 
> cloud of ash spewed across the bay from one of the volcano’s two vents. 
> Four and a half hours of rough seas later, I rolled off the ferry buffeted 
> by 40km/h winds as the peaks of Yakushima were shrouded in mist above me. A 
> strategic left turn put the winds at my back and me on a clockwise route 
> around the island. Only a few kilometers later I cruised into an empty 
> campsite on a rocky beach and pitched my tent. Across the road, I found a 
> small restaurant the served red-curry ramen with smoked Yakushima venison 
> and a delicious pale ale brewed on the island by Catch Brewery. My plans 
> for the rest of the day were sealed! 
>
> The winds abated during the night and the next morning I awoke to a 
> glorious sunrise over the East China Sea. After coffee, I rode up into the 
> mountains towards the Shiratani Unsuikyo to hike the ravine in search of 
> the famed Yaku-sugi. Once off the main trail, the rugged path winds through 
> moss-covered boulders and thick forest where frequent crossings of pristine 
> mountain streams eventually lead to the huge, ancient cedar trees. The 
> first one I came to was Yoyoi-sugi, a 3000-year-old giant perched on a 
> steep slope. Eight meters in girth at chest height, Yoyo-sugi’s upper 
> branches rise out of the forest like a great, skeletal hand clawing for the 
> sky. One after another, the humongous, gnarled trunks of these ancient 
> trees scattered throughout the forest were truly awe-inspiring. These and 
> the forest in which they dwell make it abundantly clear why Hayao 
> Miyazaki’s supreme anime, *Princess Mononoke *could be set in no place 
> other than in this magical realm.
>
> Back on my bike, the 12 kilometers and 600 meters of elevation were behind 
> me in about 15 minutes and I was back at sea-level and headed toward the 
> onsen town of Onoaida. A mountainous landscape and 10 meters of rainfall a 
> year generate a great deal of water flowing to the sea. I spent much of my 
> time on the island crossing bridges and scrambling over granite boulders to 
> either swim in crystal mountain rivers or to try my hand at tenkara, 
> Japanese-style fly fishing. The result was a slow circumnavigation of the 
> island with plenty of time lounging in beautiful spots next to flowing 
> water and warming myself on slabs of igneous rock. 
>
> The western side of the island is considerably drier, more secluded, and 
> covered in a thick tropical forest. Much of it is traversed by a 
> single-lane mountain road that closes between 5 pm and 7 am each day due to 
> the danger of navigating it in the dark. These factors create a quiet 
> environment for the island’s resident macaques and deer. On this side of 
> the island, I often pedaled by troops of macaques lazily grooming each 
> other along the roadside or browsing in trees overhanging the tarmac while 
> nearby the small Yakushima deer grazed with little concern for a guy on a 
> bike.
>
> Yakushima is a small island, only 120 or so kilometers around, and can 
> easily be ridden in a day. But, why one would travel to this stunning 
> island and not stretch a bicycle journey into days (even weeks) is beyond 

Re: [RBW] My New-to-Me Rambouillet

[Jeffrey Arita]

Patrick, thank you!

The handlebars are Velo Orange *Porteurs*.  They measure out to about 48cm 
at the widest point (where the bar cons go).   The brake levers are 
Dia-Compe DC139s, I'm guessing nicknamed "Guidonnets."  I did a quick 
search and Blue Lug sells them, available in black only (Universal Cycles 
was out of stock).  Apparently they are available in either 22.2mm or 
23.8mm clamp sizes.  They are an interesting design, I'm thinking designed 
to follow the curves of a porteur-style bar, enabling braking from many 
hand positions.

I'm not certain if they would work (well) with mechanical disc brakes.  I 
would assume the two would need to be carefully paired together to ensure 
the cable pull of the DC139 is appropriate for whatever mechanical disc 
brake caliper is chosen.

Regarding the mudguards, yes, I hope to reinstall it.  But, I will likely 
install larger tires so that will likely put an end to that.  In reading 
the background story on the Rambouillet (thanks to Cyclofiend), Grant puts 
tremendous thought into all of his designs.  I'm thinking this would make a 
fantastic rando bike.

On Monday, March 29, 2021 at 8:53:44 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> That's very nice, and I like the bar and brakes, tho' generally I 
> personally much prefer drops on all my bikes. I assume you'll install the 
> front fender?
>
> And what bar is that?
>
> Where does one find such guidonnet levers? Those might be just the thing 
> for my new MAP bar on the Monocog (installed flipped like your bar), where 
> all the vast real estate (I didn't after all trim the bar) makes lever 
> placement a bit puzzling. Levers like those could be installed ahead of, 
> instead of behind, the taped section on the curves, and still allow braking 
> from the straight sections.
>
> Oh, and would those work with cable-operated disc brakes? Perhaps not ...
>
> Patrick Moore, who fondly remembers his blue Ram.
>
> On Sun, Mar 28, 2021 at 5:22 PM Jeffrey Arita  wrote:
>
>> Hey Bunch,
>>   
>> I always wanted a Riv Rambouillet and when the opportunity knocked I 
>> jumped on it.  I went for a proper ride this afternoon and it is the usual 
>> Rivendell ride: smooth, predictable, enjoyable!  
>>
>> Special thanks to the previous owner and fellow Bunch Member (Jay 
>> LePree).  He carefully had the bike professionally packed for safe passage 
>> across the country.  The bike's frame and fork were all thoughtfully 
>> protected with pipe insulation and the front wheel was nicely tucked 
>> between the left crankarm, zip-tied to the frame.  Plenty of dunnage was 
>> used to occupy the void spaces, to prevent anything from moving within the 
>> box.  Cardboard boxes were also used to provide internal 'box' strength to 
>> prevent the long and thin box from crushing.  I could tell a lot of 
>> thought, time and care went into this packing project.  It arrived in 
>> perfect shape.
>>
>> The only things I needed to do was install the front wheel, 
>> seatpost/saddle and handlebar/quill.  Connect the two brake cables and it 
>> was done.  I didn't have the patience to reinstall the front mudguard, 
>> though!
>>
>> I wasn't too sure about the *Guidonnet *brake levers but by the end of 
>> my ride today I'm thinking I could get really used to these.  Yeah.  
>>
>> Enjoy,
>>
>> Jeff
>> Claremont, CA
>>
>>   
>>
>> -- 
>>
> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> email to rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
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>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/b4363acb-95d8-4300-8f65-b309579c0028n%40googlegroups.com
>>  
>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/b4363acb-95d8-4300-8f65-b309579c0028n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: My New-to-Me Rambouillet

[Jeffrey Arita]

Hey Jay - sorry, yes, the Supernova light made the journey as well.  After 
unpacking it all I disconnected the light and wiring and placed it in a 
safe spot.  In my excitement to ride the Ram I simply jumped on and rode 
away.  I will definitely reconnect it today.  Yes, those good folks at Trek 
knew what they were packing - they really wanted to make sure it made the 
journey safely.  

Yes Andy, I realize my descriptors were perhaps a bit on the bland side, 
maybe closer to an ultra-light shade of beige ..*s*, we don't want *too 
*many people to know what we know, though, right?  To quote Ned Ryerson 
from *Groundhog Day*, "Am I right or am I right or am I right?  
Right.right. right."

On Monday, March 29, 2021 at 6:47:59 AM UTC-7 ascpgh wrote:

> Nice!
>
> You will feel growing enjoyment and recognize orange as the fastest color. 
> What may seem like meh ride attributes of "smooth, predictable, enjoyable" 
> will rise in your favor as they are delivered with the consistency of stone 
> columns through all circumstances. 
>
> "Smooth, predictable, enjoyable" will become very decisive words when 
> other bikes' rides are compared or considered. The giants topple against 
> these.
> [image: 1BA71749-6A21-4C4D-A30F-78046D1C707F_1_105_c.jpeg]
> Andy Cheatham
> Pittsburgh
>
> On Sunday, March 28, 2021 at 7:22:55 PM UTC-4 Jeffrey Arita wrote:
>
>> Hey Bunch,
>>   
>> I always wanted a Riv Rambouillet and when the opportunity knocked I 
>> jumped on it.  I went for a proper ride this afternoon and it is the usual 
>> Rivendell ride: smooth, predictable, enjoyable!  
>>
>> Special thanks to the previous owner and fellow Bunch Member (Jay 
>> LePree).  He carefully had the bike professionally packed for safe passage 
>> across the country.  The bike's frame and fork were all thoughtfully 
>> protected with pipe insulation and the front wheel was nicely tucked 
>> between the left crankarm, zip-tied to the frame.  Plenty of dunnage was 
>> used to occupy the void spaces, to prevent anything from moving within the 
>> box.  Cardboard boxes were also used to provide internal 'box' strength to 
>> prevent the long and thin box from crushing.  I could tell a lot of 
>> thought, time and care went into this packing project.  It arrived in 
>> perfect shape.
>>
>> The only things I needed to do was install the front wheel, 
>> seatpost/saddle and handlebar/quill.  Connect the two brake cables and it 
>> was done.  I didn't have the patience to reinstall the front mudguard, 
>> though!
>>
>> I wasn't too sure about the *Guidonnet *brake levers but by the end of 
>> my ride today I'm thinking I could get really used to these.  Yeah.  
>>
>> Enjoy,
>>
>> Jeff
>> Claremont, CA
>>
>>   
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: In Praise of Park Tools

[Jeffrey Arita]

Peter,

I own a lot of Park Tools, including a CN-10.  I use them quite often.  
Perhaps your CN-10 is a lemon?  Give Park a call and explain your 
experience with that particular tool.  They just might send you a 
replacement.  

Best regards,

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 1:17:41 PM UTC-7 divis...@gmail.com wrote:

> That's interesting, and raises the question of whether their customer 
> support might be relied on for other things.
>
> I own many Park tools (spanners, hex drivers, spoke wrenches etc), but 
> only a few with moving parts: The PAW-12 crescent wrench, the CCP-2 dual 
> 22mm (Campy/Shimano)/23mm (TA) square-taper crank extractor, and my bête 
> noire, the CN-10 cable/housing cutter.
>
> I bought this cutter brand-spanking new, and it's been terrible from day 
> one. When the pivot bolt is tightened, it's too tight to close for the cut; 
> when you loosen it enough for smooth travel, it leaves a ragged edge on the 
> housing and pulls threads out of cables. There's no middle ground; there 
> should obviously be some sort of thin Teflon washer (or even brass) between 
> the two arms of the cutter, so that you get smooth travel but the arms are 
> close enough for a clean cut. To me, this seems like a fatal design flaw. 
> For decades, Felco and VAR have made cable cutters that work, and I've 
> heard good things about Shimano's cutters; why would a brand that makes 
> premium products design cutters with so much friction in the system that it 
> doesn't perform the function for which it's designed?
>
> I've never just thrown it out. I just stick it/throw it back into my 
> toolbox, take it out forgetfully every six months to cut a housing, make a 
> ghastly mess of the job, and get mad all over again. It's never occurred to 
> me to phone Park and complain about the fact that their expensive cutter 
> doesn't work at all.
>
> Peter "ten times bit, not shy enough" Adler
> Berkeley, CA/USA
> On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 12:06:45 PM UTC-7 Christopher Cote wrote:
>
>> I had a brand new external BB socket crumble like an old cookie the first 
>> time I used it. Obviously a bad casting. I emailed Park's customer support, 
>> they asked for a pic, and sent me a new one really quickly. A+ customer 
>> service in my book.
>>
>> Chris
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, March 21, 2021 at 1:15:13 PM UTC-4 Marty Gierke, Stewartstown 
>> PA wrote:
>>
>>> I have one of those workstand seat tube holder things, but the top knob 
>>> broke a while back. It's not something Park has sold for many years, and I 
>>> probably could have come up with a fix, but I took a chance and called to 
>>> see if they had a knob for it. Talked to a real person who pointed me to 
>>> the secret place on the site to find obsolete repair parts, and I was able 
>>> to order a NOS Park-branded knob and the plastic sleeve thing for a few 
>>> bucks. The guy kind of laughed and admitted they had not sold this thing 
>>> for at least fifteen years, but was happy to put this one back in service. 
>>> It showed up in the mail two days later. Shipping cost was less than 4 
>>> bucks.
>>>
>>> [image: Park1.jpg]
>>>
>>> Love it when a company is willing to take care of you and be pleasant 
>>> about it. The guy on the phone called me by name at least three times. 
>>> Kudos to Park Tools. May they live long and prosper.
>>>
>>> Marty
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Shoe recs for platforms

[Jeffrey Arita]

Adam,

I purchased the Trailcross shoes early last year in preparation for some 
bikepacking adventures + flat pedals.  Did not go on any extended 
adventures but I did ride the shoes a *lot *on day rides.  Very, very nice 
in hot weather.  While wading through streams the shoes dried out quickly.  
The Five Ten sole really gripped any kind of flat pedal - sometimes too 
well as it made it difficult to move my foot while pedaling.  Hike-a-biking 
was good too as the sole at the toe gripped inclines well.  My only gripe 
is they are definitely *not *cold weather shoes (like today) ;)

Good luck,

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Saturday, March 13, 2021 at 6:22:47 PM UTC-8 Adam wrote:

> Thanks again all, Thought I'd post a follow up for what it's worth.
>
> I went with the Five Ten Trailcross - a newish model with mesh upper, and 
> a little more walking/hiking traction in the sole. So far, I like them, 
> though I haven't seen how they'll do in more extreme conditions. They're 
> great for a little wet, cold, muddy. I had to hike-a-bike over some steep 
> crumbly sections and they held up well for that.
>
> Several folks above mentioned the toe box being small/narrow, and I agree. 
> I have wideish feet and these are right on the threshold of not working for 
> me, especially with thicker socks. That said, I did a long ride in them 
> today with thick wool socks and everything was comfy, just a bit tight.
>
> I think the breathability will be amazing once it's not so cold.
>
> anyway, thanks all for the recommendations, there were lots of good ideas 
> on here, very helpful.
> On Monday, March 8, 2021 at 6:10:50 PM UTC-5 Robert Hakim wrote:
>
>> I bought a pair of these :
>>
>> https://www.specialized.com/us/en/2fo-flat-2-0-mountain-bike-shoes/p/155830?color=237107-155830=61119-6237
>> And I quite like them. They're a bit warm in the summer but are stiff, 
>> comfortable, durable and shed reasonable amounts of water. 
>>
>> I bought mine last year, they had better color options- i.e. not super 
>> bright and not white. 
>>
>> -Robert
>>
>> On Monday, March 8, 2021 at 4:12:36 PM UTC-5 Joe M. wrote:
>>
>>> I prefer Altra Lone Peaks for when I'm going on dirt and Vans slip ons 
>>> for pavement riding. Both these shoes feel good on my MKS Monarch/Gamma 
>>> pedals.
>>>
>>> On Friday, March 5, 2021 at 5:36:32 PM UTC-8 David Person wrote:
>>>
 +1 on the Five Ten Freeriders.  Grippy and long lasting soles.  Pedal 
 pins don't tear them up.

 On Wednesday, March 3, 2021 at 2:15:19 AM UTC-8 Ed Carolipio wrote:

> I prefer Five Ten Freeriders for biking - all my bikes have flats - 
> with the suede/mesh uppers and the rigid + grippy stealth rubber soles. 
> MSRP is $100 but can be had for as low as $60 when they go on sale. My 
> experience with Freeriders is they break in well and can take a beating. 
> For a change of pace, I also wear low cut Vans with waffle soles, laces, 
> and suede/canvas uppers (Berle Pro, BMX, Old Skool).
>
> --Ed C.
> On Tuesday, March 2, 2021 at 6:17:22 PM UTC-8 Adam wrote:
>
>>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> I've seen a few old threads on this topic, but am curious what shoes 
>> people like for their platforms? I'm using the newish grip monarchs.
>>
>> I've been riding in an old pair of running shoes for a number of 
>> years, but the holes are getting out of hand and it's time for them to 
>> retire. I tried a pair of fairly rigid spd shoes that I had sitting 
>> around 
>> from a few years ago (without the cleats) and while I like the rigidity, 
>> the grip doesn't hold up when they're wet.
>>
>> I'm finding that I like the additional stiffness. Trying the mushy 
>> running shoes again, they feel pretty bad. I'm not sure how they didn't 
>> bother me all those years.
>>
>> So what's grippy (esp when wet), not too hot, decent in the rain, and 
>> reasonably stiff?(doesn't have to be cycling specific)
>>
>> Thanks for your thoughts!
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Weight question / I'm obviously confused

[Jeffrey Arita]

Jim,

You are not imagining things.  I have a Surly Cross-Check that has been 
used as a commuter, grocery-getter, randonneur, single-speed and as a 
cyclo-tourer.  When I had it configured as a tourer I had it fairly heavily 
laden in front (2 large Ortlieb backroller panniers + Tubus Tara) with an 
Ortlieb rack pack on back + Tubus Cosmo.  I still cannot believe how 
comfortable that particular rig rode.  As Mark Schneider points out, bikes 
do seem to work better when they flex a bit, and with the Surly's decently 
burly tubes, it sure proved that theory!

Good luck!

Jeff

On Sunday, January 10, 2021 at 5:01:26 PM UTC-8 Mark Schneider wrote:

> I think I have an idea. The stiff tubing on your Clem wasn't flexing 
> without a load. Bikes work best when they flex a little, your other bikes 
> weren't as stiff, the extra weight allows the Clem to "plane". I've heard 
> Jan Heine talk about stiffer bikes needing more weight to ride better.
>
> On Sunday, January 10, 2021 at 11:57:28 AM UTC-8 Jim Whorton wrote:
>
>> Jim M, thanks for sharing that about the 52 Clem.  I had wondered how a 
>> 52 would feel.  I can't help thinking the 55 Atlantis would be perfect, 
>> though I'm hesitant to spend that money on a new bike for all the reasons 
>> people have said. 
>>
>> Really appreciate all the comments and advice.  I've learned a ton from 
>> this forum over the last couple years.
>>
>> DougP,  yes, I am with you on donating bikes and parts.  Rochester has a 
>> great non-profit called R Community Bikes that repairs old bikes and gives 
>> them away to people who need them.  I have given them a few.
>>
>> Jim W
>>
>> On Sunday, January 10, 2021 at 1:14:07 PM UTC-5 Jim M. wrote:
>>
>>> On Saturday, January 9, 2021 at 8:24:28 PM UTC-8 Jim Whorton wrote:
>>>
 I'm not sure why I picked up the pipe, Jason.  It seemed like a good 
 pipe.  

>>> I have a pipe like that (slightly shorter) to use as a cheater bar. 
>>>
>>> I have the same pbh and bought a 52 Clem H that was on sale. It was too 
>>> small though I fit the theoretical range. I should have gotten the 59. I 
>>> support the suggestions of better tires/lower pressure. I think you'll feel 
>>> a big difference. I really liked the Clem other than the sizing.
>>>
>>> jim m
>>> walnut creek
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Racks/fenders, an aesthetics question

[Jeffrey Arita]

Joe,

*VERY *nice bike!

My opinion:  I appreciate in most cases what a bicycle looks like, but 
being of the engineering mindset I typically go with 'if it is desperately 
needed, then do it.'  Thus, if you cycle in rainy weather then by all means 
install mudguards.  If your weather happens to be mostly dry then I would 
probably forego them.

I have installed my fair share of mudguards on bicycles as we've cycled 
many different places (rainy places, normal afternoon thundershowers, 
etc.).  I definitely agree that patience is required.

Either way, you have a fantastic ride - enjoy it!

Best regards,

Jeff
Claremont, CA

On Monday, December 14, 2020 at 10:05:22 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:

> I need opinions on this matter because I've wrestled with it enough to 
> think I might be bonkers loony and need to get out more (probably and yes): 
>
> This is my Riv Custom (pictured below) and it's about to get a Nitto RBW51 
> rear rack to support a gray Medium Saddlesack. To go along with it I'm 
> thinking of adding fenders even though I don't particularly need them, and 
> find them to be a bit of a fussy headache. Here's my dilemma: I think racks 
> need fenders. Like it looks wrong if you just have a bag-support rack and a 
> bag over a bare tire. I know this is a thing with gravel/camping bikes now, 
> but my brain is stuck on the 'full touring bike' look of the olden days 
> which always had racks and fenders together. So whaddyathink? Do they need 
> to go together to look "right", or is my drop-toptube low-kicker Rivendell 
> already non-traditional enough that it doesn't freaking matter? 
>
> Joe "he needs to get out more" Bernard
>

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[RBW] Re: Talk Me Out of Building My Own Wheels

[Jeffrey Arita]

Steven,

Definitely do it!  If you are meticulous and patient, then you should be 
fine.  I have used Roger Musson's book along with his spoke length 
calculator - both have worked very, very well for me [16 wheel builds 
later]. 

I learned because my wife and I were about to embark on the TransAm back in 
2016.  Since we were going to be unsupported, I figured I'd better be able 
to fix and repair a wheel.  That is one of the many good things that comes 
out of all this: you will be able to repair broken spoke(s) or nipple(s) 
anywhere, as long as you carry spare(s).  You will also appreciate 
something that is so light is able to carry you so far and so fast.   And 
no, we had zero problems on the TransAm (and beyond).

Fast-forward to late 2018: I finally decided to purchase a tensiometer 
(Park Tool's model).  I think it is a good investment.  It helps *quantify *the 
tension all the way around the wheel.  Their Wheel Tension App is quite 
good in illustrating this, IMO.  Yes, my previous wheel builds did have 
some significant imbalances (!).

If you are provided the priceless luxury of time, definitely move forward!

Good luck,

Jeff

On Monday, October 19, 2020 at 8:25:58 AM UTC-7 Steven Seelig wrote:

> So with COVID and all, I've decided that now is the time to do stuff that 
> I haven't ever done before.  Learning to speak French is perhaps a bridge 
> too far - not so good at language.  But it seems reasonable to think that I 
> can at least build a front wheel with a Dyno hub to put on the Sam I ride 
> in the means streets of DC and on some gravel.  
>
> I have a truing stand but not a dishing tool.  I would say I am a 
> competent wrencher.  Of course anyone who has built up a wheel did it once 
> for the first time.  Is this something I should take on?  What are the odds 
> for success?  Will I quit in frustration?
>
> Points of view encouraged.
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: cheap parts, upright cockpit, crank, tires

[Jeffrey Arita]

Hi Drew,

I might have a few parts to offer up.  I will send you a private message.

Best,

Jeff Arita
Claremont, CA

On Saturday, October 3, 2020 at 10:58:04 PM UTC-7 Drw wrote:

> Putting together a bike for a newly relocated friend, who needs a bike, 
> but can only manage about 200$ for something, AND is also aesthetically 
> inclined (i know, you cant have both. i know.). I redirected away from big 
> box, and we picked up a 1992 trek 730 multitrack with 50% serviceable 
> parts. Right now, looking for...
>
> -upright bars. something between jitensa to albatross shaped bars would be 
> fine
> -silver stem that'll work with above
> -700x40 maybe 42 tires
> -a mostly silver double (or triple)crankset
>
> Would maybe be interested in
> -Thumb shifters for 7 speed (to go with og drivetrain)
> OR
> -9 speed cassette. ( i almost have all the parts to fudge a 9 speed 
> drivetrain)
>
> Budget is very low, so i'm mostly dipping into my own $$ for this, and 
> requesting your forgotten parts bin items and or generosity. 
>
> shipping would be to 90066. Thanks all,
> Drew
> d rew bec kmey er @ gmai l . com
>

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[RBW] Re: PSA: Cheap fenders killed my bike.

[Jeffrey Arita]

Dear Brendon,

First and foremost, so glad you are ok!  I think we all appreciate you 
sharing your unfortunate experience and as a warning to others of what 
could happen.  This critical information will definitely guide me should I 
ever look into installing mudguards.

Again, thank you for taking the time and effort to post the photos.  A 
picture is worth a thousand words.  The forces those high quality steel 
tubes underwent must have been amazing.  And you weren't going that fast!

Stay Safe!

Jeff
Claremont, CA USA
On Tuesday, June 30, 2020 at 8:17:44 PM UTC-7 brendonoid wrote:

> Thanks so much for everyones kind responses. It was really hard to take 
> clear pictures. I do not like take photos and try not to do it too much.
> I hope these work;
> headtube variance:
> [image: APPAheadtubebend.jpg]
> Doesn't look much in the picture but the bend in the middle was actually 
> enough to lift the headbadge loose. seemed to have fulcrumed a bend around 
> the second TT.
> Downtube bend was lower in the tube and a lot longer than I was looking 
> for so my initial inspection missed it:
> [image: APPAdowntubedistortion.jpg]
> Yes that is an old bent Homer fork from an accident in 2013, its steerer 
> was not distorted so was a test bed for headset alignment,
> Headset misalignment is 0.45mm according to my feeler gauge:
> [image: APPAheadsetmisalignment0.45mm.jpg]
> And finally you can see that the fork has bent where the steerer enters 
> the lug and it actually seems the crown lug has twisted slightly also. 
> Frustratingly the fork blades seem almost perfectly straight.
> [image: APPAforkcrowntwist.jpg]
>
> I will look into the Eastern States options as far as frame repair is 
> concerned but at this point I might just try to get a new fork from Riv and 
> ride it as is. The frame isn't twisted at all and the double top tube gives 
> me confidence that if the downtube does fail it wont be catastrophic. The 
> chamfer on the FSA headset cups/bearings seem to absorb the misalignment 
> and function very smoothly. I suspect an old loose ball headset would not 
> function at all.
>
> Would probably had grief purchased an orange 57cm if they had still been 
> available...I do love orange.
> On Tuesday, 30 June 2020 at 17:23:00 UTC+8 brendonoid wrote:
>
>> Hey guys, I just wanted to let everyone know the obviously stupid thing 
>> that I did even though I knew it was stupid has ruined my bike. Maybe this 
>> will help others as a warning or something... ?
>> I've been running some cheap plastic fenders SOMA somethingorothers that 
>> did not have those plastic easy break stay connecters that most common 
>> sense fenders have. I knew this was a hazard but had ridden many 1000s of 
>> kilometres on them and had just sort of forgotten about it. 
>> It gets worse; I attached my Nitto Big Front rack (34f)? to do an 
>> overnighter on a nice trail while i was on holiday squeezing the adventure 
>> inbetween some bad weather and storms. On the second day, 80kms from the 
>> next town as I crested the hill...through a lot of debris and broken 
>> branches... doing ~15kmh (not exceeding 20kmh) my bike suddenly came to a 
>> stop. Just a firm enough stop to lift the back end up a little bit and make 
>> me have to put my feet down suddenly.
>> The fender stays had lodged themselves into the fork along with the thick 
>> piece of bark that had caused the accident.
>> "No worries! these cheap fenders finally failed!" I thought, "my stupid 
>> fault. Oh well, lucky I was going slow!' 
>> As I disentangled the mess, removing the front wheel, "Oh no, the fork is 
>> bent" I realised. "It's okay, the wheel isn't hitting the downtube I can 
>> still ride out of here... why has the head badged popped out funny though?"
>> Oh, the headtube is shaped like a banana...
>> Welp.
>> I could have been doing 40km/h down hill and i could have died as well as 
>> killing my bike. This is what I am trying to commisserate myself with. It 
>> barely helps.
>> I live in Western Australia. There are no local frame builders I know of 
>> or would trust to try and repair this frame. Shipping the bike back to 
>> Rivendell is going to be an expensive excercise and in these COVID times 
>> I'm not sure they can do anything anyway. I really just don't know what I 
>> am going to do.
>> The accident was so minor and I have bent forks before. The problem here 
>> and the reason it has been so catastrophic is because the Big Strong Nitto 
>> rack reinforced the fork removing tis failure mode of being able to bend, 
>> that force was translated into the headtube as the fork actually bent where 
>> the steerer is welded into the crown lug translating that force into the 
>> headtube.
>> I can post pictures if anyone is interested. The frame is weirdly 
>> straight and I cannot find any distortion in the maintubes despite the 
>> obvious bend in the head tube. The headset cups are only out of alignment 
>> to the point that a sealed bearing headset 

[RBW] Re: Help! Chain/tire rub problem with my Susie build

[Jeffrey Arita]

David,

You are most welcome - at least from our perspective for a completely 
different bike and drivetrain and wheelset

I would encourage anyone to try the GD.  If one doesn't have the time to 
tackle the entire route in one go that is completely understandable.  
Consider doing a section.  We met several folks that were on their third or 
fourth seasons as they return again and again to ride the different 
sections.  It is not impossible and as many cyclo-tourists can attest, once 
you are out there, you simply find your rhythm.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xqCYE-Smqf4  

On Friday, June 26, 2020 at 12:48:13 PM UTC-7 David Wadstrup wrote:

>
> Jeff,
>
> Thanks so much for such a detailed explanation!  This really put all the 
> technologies and standards in perspective and helped me wrap my head around 
> everything.  What a experience that ride must have been!  I'm thoroughly 
> jealous.
>
> Best,
>
> David
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Suggestions for best-value 120 mm, 32-hole, silver, sealed-bearing fixed hub?

[Jeffrey Arita]

Yes, true.  I think that is why the use of the nuts make the VO flexible 
for various dropout widths.

VO really did their homework on this hub, IMHO.  Both sides of the hub are 
the exact same, so running two different freewheels with lockrings is 
possible.  Or, obviously two fixed gears.

Good luck,

Jeff

On Wednesday, June 10, 2020 at 11:09:11 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Just realized: One would have to trim the axles to fit a 120 MM hub with 
> QR skewer, right? Not a huge obstacle, but something to include in the 
> pro/con mix.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 12:07 PM Patrick Moore  > wrote:
>
>> Thank you, Jeff; this is exactly the kind information I was hoping for. I 
>> just looked again at the VO hub and it does indeed have hollow axles; 
>> missed that before. It is now #1 tied with Surly.
>>
>> Noted about Shimano QRs; that's what I've been using myself; agree they 
>> work better than many others.
>>
>> On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 10:18 AM Jeffrey Arita > > wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Patrick,
>>>
>>> I will offer up my 2 cents: I own a Surly Cross-Check (132.5mm rear 
>>> dropout spacing) and I converted it to SS/fixed gear about 18 months ago.  
>>> Never having such a drivetrain, I researched rear hubs.  I settled on the 
>>> VO fixed/freewheel hub (32 hole drilling only).  I installed a Shimano 
>>> freewheel cog on one side and a Surly fixed cog on the other.  The VO hub 
>>> came with various spacers so the hub will fit 126, 130 or 135 dropouts.  It 
>>> does have a hollow axle but I've only used the bolts to secure it to the 
>>> horizontal dropouts on the CC.  One could use a QR if desired.  FWIW: Mike 
>>> Varley (BMC) recommends use of Shimano only QRs for the rear.  He states 
>>> they clamp very well vs. other QRs on the market.
>>>
>>> BTW: I recently purchased a Fuji Team road bike frame & fork.  The 
>>> mid-80's frame had 126 spacing.  Wanting to put it together quickly to see 
>>> how it rode I put the VO hub with the 126 spacers on it.  
>>>
>>> Good luck!
>>>
>>> Jeff
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, June 10, 2020 at 7:11:57 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>>
>>>> I should add that the default is the Surly, if currently available; it 
>>>> has been perfectly trouble free for thousands of miles and looks good. A 
>>>> fixed/fixed would be nice, though. And I'd like opinions on others.
>>>>
>>>> On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 7:48 AM Patrick Moore  
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I have to buy a new fixed road hub since the Surly I've been using 
>>>>> apparently can't  be respaced to the required 120 mm. 
>>>>>
>>>>> I've not bought a fixed hub since 2006 or so, tho' I did upgrade my 
>>>>> Surly axle and bearings about 2010, so I'm interested in suggestions.
>>>>>
>>>>> I'd like:
>>>>>
>>>>> Adequate sealing against dust and occasional rain;
>>>>> Hollow axle for QR or allen bolts;
>>>>> Decent bearings.
>>>>>
>>>>> I know and own Phil, but I am trying in this case to buy on merit or 
>>>>> value and not on status. If Phil or Paul don't add 50% or 100% more value 
>>>>> (metaphor) then I'd rather not pay half or all again as much as necessary.
>>>>>
>>>>> I see that Surly still makes a 120 OL silver 32 hole hub and that you 
>>>>> can buy a hollow, threaded axle for it.
>>>>>
>>>>> Miche, Velo Orange, DT, Formula: I've looked at all of these, but not 
>>>>> all take QR skewers.
>>>>>
>>>>> Your (singular and plural) recommendations?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks.
>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
>>>>>
>>>>> ---
>>>>> Patrick Moore
>>>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> -- 
>>>>
>>>> ---
>>>> Patrick Moore
>>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>>>
>>>> -- 
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>>> To unsubscri

[RBW] Re: Suggestions for best-value 120 mm, 32-hole, silver, sealed-bearing fixed hub?

[Jeffrey Arita]

Hi Patrick,

I will offer up my 2 cents: I own a Surly Cross-Check (132.5mm rear dropout 
spacing) and I converted it to SS/fixed gear about 18 months ago.  Never 
having such a drivetrain, I researched rear hubs.  I settled on the VO 
fixed/freewheel hub (32 hole drilling only).  I installed a Shimano 
freewheel cog on one side and a Surly fixed cog on the other.  The VO hub 
came with various spacers so the hub will fit 126, 130 or 135 dropouts.  It 
does have a hollow axle but I've only used the bolts to secure it to the 
horizontal dropouts on the CC.  One could use a QR if desired.  FWIW: Mike 
Varley (BMC) recommends use of Shimano only QRs for the rear.  He states 
they clamp very well vs. other QRs on the market.

BTW: I recently purchased a Fuji Team road bike frame & fork.  The mid-80's 
frame had 126 spacing.  Wanting to put it together quickly to see how it 
rode I put the VO hub with the 126 spacers on it.  

Good luck!

Jeff


On Wednesday, June 10, 2020 at 7:11:57 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I should add that the default is the Surly, if currently available; it has 
> been perfectly trouble free for thousands of miles and looks good. A 
> fixed/fixed would be nice, though. And I'd like opinions on others.
>
> On Wed, Jun 10, 2020 at 7:48 AM Patrick Moore  > wrote:
>
>> I have to buy a new fixed road hub since the Surly I've been using 
>> apparently can't  be respaced to the required 120 mm. 
>>
>> I've not bought a fixed hub since 2006 or so, tho' I did upgrade my Surly 
>> axle and bearings about 2010, so I'm interested in suggestions.
>>
>> I'd like:
>>
>> Adequate sealing against dust and occasional rain;
>> Hollow axle for QR or allen bolts;
>> Decent bearings.
>>
>> I know and own Phil, but I am trying in this case to buy on merit or 
>> value and not on status. If Phil or Paul don't add 50% or 100% more value 
>> (metaphor) then I'd rather not pay half or all again as much as necessary.
>>
>> I see that Surly still makes a 120 OL silver 32 hole hub and that you can 
>> buy a hollow, threaded axle for it.
>>
>> Miche, Velo Orange, DT, Formula: I've looked at all of these, but not all 
>> take QR skewers.
>>
>> Your (singular and plural) recommendations?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> -- 
>>
>> ---
>> Patrick Moore
>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>
>>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Sun Protection in Sunny Climes

[Jeffrey Arita]

I believe it was Grant at Riv that got me on the seersucker material thing 
(several years ago?).  I was able to test the clothing material on a tour 
my wife and I did last summer (ACA's CHI -> NYC route).  It was of course 
hot and humid and the shortsleeve seersucker shirts I wore were quite 
comfortable and cool - despite wearing a backpack-style hydration pack.  IF 
you didn't wear a hydration pack I imagine it would be even cooler.  Be 
advised: be especially careful entering any air-conditioned convenience 
store.  I nearly froze inside as they typically had the AC set so darned 
low.  It felt much better when going back out into the summer heat.

Consider perhaps a long-sleeved seersucker blouse/shirt?  The material 
provides a huge amount of surface area for evaporative cooling as you roll 
along.  The material hopefully provides some level of SPF.

Good luck!

Jeff

On Sunday, May 17, 2020 at 4:58:35 PM UTC-7, Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! wrote:
>
> I have been riding my big blue Clementine like it’s my JOB this year. I’ve 
> got 960 miles on that Blue Beauty and it’s only May, which is really good 
> for living in a car-centric suburb like mine. I wanted to do 2020 miles in 
> 2020, and the COVID crisis has put me ahead of schedule. With my husband 
> commandeering our bedroom as his office, one son Zooming his middle school 
> classes in the downstairs office, and my 2nd son Zooming 5th grade at my 
> kitchen table, there hasn’t been any places left for me in my house. It 
> seems I have no choice but to hit the road. Oh, twist my arm, why don’t 
> you. “Are you going out on your two-wheeler? Gonna hit the old dusty 
> trail?” my husband will ask. “Yes, I am doing this for YOU,” I say. 
>
> Compounding the issue is that I never leave before one mug of coffee, and 
> that mug cannot be rushed. So, I rarely get out there before 7:30 when the 
> sun is high in the sky. This is Vegas, and it’s hot here - we are in the 
> 90s and not a cloud in the sky most recently. Enclosed is a photo of my tan 
> line, and I haven’t even spent much time in the pool yet. Yikes. I’ve been 
> wearing some non-toxic sunscreen but honestly, it’s just better to cover 
> up. But how do you cover up when it’s so hot outside? I can’t imagine 
> wearing pants and long sleeves, but I also don’t want sun damage and skin 
> cancer, so I figured I’d come here and see what you folks do. 
>
> What clothing could I wear that would protect my skin without making me 
> sweat to death? Linen would be a good option, right? But where do you get 
> linen riding clothing? 
>
> Thanks!
> Leah
>

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[RBW] Re: Velocity Quill experiences?

[Jeffrey Arita]

Tom,

Your inquiry is timely.  I recently bought a BMC Monster Cross (frame and 
fork).  I was originally planning on installing a set of wheels (Velocity 
A23 rims) I already had to put on the new bike.  Wanting to go fairly 
wide-tires on the Monster Cross, I was limited in tire width on the A23's.  
I actually asked Velocity if their Quill rims really made that much 
difference (internal width wise).  They responded (naturally) that it does 
make a huge difference

Flash-foward to last night.  I finally finished both wheels and the Monster 
Cross is 95% ready to ride.  It has brand new Quill rims with re-purposed 
hubs (SON28, White Industries Daisy).  I was able to buy from WI a NDS 
spacer to convert it from 145mm to 130mm spacing.  Tires are Panaracer 
GravelKing slicks (700x38), tubeless.  The wheels came together really, 
really well.  My short jaunt last night was really good and once I have 
some mileage on them I can report back...

BTW: I finally purchased a wheel tension tool (Park Tool, TM-1).  I realize 
the tool is fairly decent and not the best out there BUT Park's "wheel 
tension app" makes this (to me) an almost indispensable tool.  One is able 
to *quantify *their work and to give a lot of *confidence *in their 
build(s).  I've been assembling wheels since 2016 without using a tool.  
Most (maybe all) rim manufacturers provide maximum tension figures.  With 
the tool I am now able to approach that figure.

I spent quite a bit of time checking all of my other wheel builds and found 
the typical neighboring and opposing spokes "not sharing the load."  A 
fairly well-balanced wheel can now be realized.  I cannot hear well 
anymore, so this tool now does for me what my hearing cannot!

Good luck!

Jeff  



On Friday, January 3, 2020 at 6:50:04 PM UTC-8, tc wrote:
>
> I now have a 62 MIT Atlantis frame.  I'm gonna order a new Rich-built 
> wheelset for it.  Velocity Quill?  Cliffhanger?  
>
> I'm leaning toward Quill because they fit a wider range of tires, esp. 
> narrower ones in case I want to go crazy and fender it.  Also, Quills are 
> lighter by a pound, seem to be strong enough (I'm not gonna tour with heavy 
> loads).  Jan's article, "Myth 18: Wide Tires Need Wide Rims 
> " 
> started me on this path.  A chart in that article says a 21mm inside width 
> (what the Quill has) should be able to handle a 64mm ((!) tire ... though 
> Velocity recommends up to 47...which seems very conservative to me.  I'm 
> running Dyads and 2.1 Nano's on my Toyo Atlantis...super combination.  
>
> I won't be putting a 64 tire on a Quill, but will think strongly about the 
> 55 Antelope Hills.  Also have some 29x2 G-One Speeds to consider.
>
> Anyone have any experience with Quills?
>
> Thanks,
> Tom
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Advice Needed: Tires

[Jeffrey Arita]

Marc,

Sorry - I just saw your question regarding GravelKing's.  We've been lucky 
thus far.  Only a few flats - no more than any other type of tire.  Note 
that we only have the 'standard' GravelKing slicks.  Apparently Panaracer 
came out with a GravelKing PLUS.  The GK Plus adds a "ProTite Shield Plus" 
layer onto the 'standard' GK.  I/we do not have any experience with the GK 
Plus.

Note: I/we do make sure we (kinda) carefully watch the air pressures both 
front and rear (per Frank Berto's tire chart as a starting place).  For a 
single bike it it not a huge issue (we typically run them kinda low 
pressure anyway) but for the tandem I watch it carefully because of the 
potential for pinch flats.  For the tandem I ran 90-ish psi front and 
95-ish psi rear (tubed of course).  We rode a 200k brevet on January 1st 
and a 75 miler this past weekend without flats (as expected).

I/we don't have any experience with GK's run *tubeless *but as duly noted I 
am building up a Black Mountain Cycles Monster Cross (rim-brake model).  
I've got the front wheel completed (700x38 GK tubeless with Panaracer Seal 
Smart).  Interesting to note: Upon installing the tire onto the rim (new 
Velocity Quill) and inflating it, the tire did NOT hold air, even for a few 
minutes.  I checked it under water and saw that a lot of air was being lost 
at the bead AND where the Velocity Quill rim was joined together.  I 
installed the sealant and it completely sealed the leaks (I tested it under 
water after adding the sealant).  I've used Stan's and Orange Seal and this 
is the first time using Panaracer's version.

Good luck on your eventual selection!

Jeff

On Wednesday, January 15, 2020 at 7:18:10 AM UTC-8, Marc Irwin wrote:
>
> The Gravel King seemed an option until I heard a number of complaints 
> about flats, even on tubeless applications.   
> What is your experience with Gravel Kings and flats?  I've been using 
> Pasela tires for years but have been thinking of tubeless for the Hillborne 
> now.
>
> Marc
>
> On Wednesday, January 15, 2020 at 10:00:25 AM UTC-5, Jeffrey Arita wrote:
>>
>> Steve,
>>
>> Maybe consider Panaracer tires?  Specifically the GravelKing slicks?
>>
>> My wife and I ride our fair share of RH/Compass tires.  Excellent 
>> quality, extremely comfy, long-wearing and high performance.  We also own a 
>> fair number of Panaracer tires - specifically GravelKing slicks (28 and 32 
>> mm).
>>
>> We've ridden the GK's on our tandem (the frame and fork can only fit 28mm 
>> max) and they are very, very nice.  They are very reasonably priced too.  I 
>> will be mounting a set of 38mm GK's on my new Black Mountain Cycles Monster 
>> Cross [I am currently building it up].  I only wished they made a 44!
>>
>> Good luck!
>>
>> Jeff
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 14, 2020 at 6:25:58 AM UTC-8, Steve Cole wrote:
>>>
>>> I want to replace the tires I currently am running on a bike I use only 
>>> about a quarter of the time.  The bike is a 1990s era Bianchi Axis.  It is 
>>> currently set up with 700c x 37 Schwalbe Marathons (the original).  I want 
>>> to go a size larger which I believe the bike will accommodate.  I also want 
>>> a suppler tire.  I ride mostly in the city, on paved country roads and 
>>> occasionally on fairly smooth dirt roads.  I've considered Rene Herse 
>>> Barlow Pass, Continental Contact Speed or Schwalbe G-One Speed.  I'm 
>>> interest in any views you have on these tires or others you would strongly 
>>> recommend.  Many thanks.
>>>
>>> Steve Cole
>>> Arlington, VA 
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Advice Needed: Tires

[Jeffrey Arita]

Steve,

Maybe consider Panaracer tires?  Specifically the GravelKing slicks?

My wife and I ride our fair share of RH/Compass tires.  Excellent quality, 
extremely comfy, long-wearing and high performance.  We also own a fair 
number of Panaracer tires - specifically GravelKing slicks (28 and 32 mm).

We've ridden the GK's on our tandem (the frame and fork can only fit 28mm 
max) and they are very, very nice.  They are very reasonably priced too.  I 
will be mounting a set of 38mm GK's on my new Black Mountain Cycles Monster 
Cross [I am currently building it up].  I only wished they made a 44!

Good luck!

Jeff

On Tuesday, January 14, 2020 at 6:25:58 AM UTC-8, Steve Cole wrote:
>
> I want to replace the tires I currently am running on a bike I use only 
> about a quarter of the time.  The bike is a 1990s era Bianchi Axis.  It is 
> currently set up with 700c x 37 Schwalbe Marathons (the original).  I want 
> to go a size larger which I believe the bike will accommodate.  I also want 
> a suppler tire.  I ride mostly in the city, on paved country roads and 
> occasionally on fairly smooth dirt roads.  I've considered Rene Herse 
> Barlow Pass, Continental Contact Speed or Schwalbe G-One Speed.  I'm 
> interest in any views you have on these tires or others you would strongly 
> recommend.  Many thanks.
>
> Steve Cole
> Arlington, VA 
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Cane Creek SCR-5 Road Brake Levers - $8.00

[Jeffrey Arita]

Thank you, Joe!  I am sure many of us have these kinds of things laying 
around - not physically attached to a fully functioning bicycle.  Hopefully 
they could be re-purposed.  

Best regards,

Jeff

On Monday, December 16, 2019 at 7:44:47 PM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Good man, Jeff, I try to do "somebody should use these" sales, too, 
> sometimes. Which reminds me I need to dig around here for some parts that 
> will ship for about 8 bucks. 

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[RBW] Re: FS: Cane Creek SCR-5 Road Brake Levers - $8.00

[Jeffrey Arita]

SOLD!

On Monday, December 16, 2019 at 7:38:21 PM UTC-8, Jeffrey Arita wrote:
>
> SALE PENDING
>
> On Monday, December 16, 2019 at 7:24:07 PM UTC-8, Jeffrey Arita wrote:
>>
>> I have a pair of black Cane Creek SCR-5 road brake levers for sale.  
>> $8.00 includes shipping CONUS (USPS Flat Rate Box).  I absolutely hate to 
>> throw anything like this away.  Good shape (fit and finish) and fully 
>> functional.  Hopefully they find a nice home.  Thank you for looking.
>>
>> Best regards,
>>
>> Jeff Arita
>> Claremont, CA
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Cane Creek SCR-5 Road Brake Levers - $8.00

[Jeffrey Arita]

SALE PENDING

On Monday, December 16, 2019 at 7:24:07 PM UTC-8, Jeffrey Arita wrote:
>
> I have a pair of black Cane Creek SCR-5 road brake levers for sale.  $8.00 
> includes shipping CONUS (USPS Flat Rate Box).  I absolutely hate to throw 
> anything like this away.  Good shape (fit and finish) and fully 
> functional.  Hopefully they find a nice home.  Thank you for looking.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Jeff Arita
> Claremont, CA
>

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[RBW] An Ent and Hurricane Ridge

[Jeffrey Arita]

Wally, please report back, I am very interested in these tires.  Thank you!

Best regards,

Jeff

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[RBW] Re: For Sale Silver Crankset 173 low Double, bb, $160 shipped

[Jeffrey Arita]

Mark: I PM'd you.  

Best regards,

Jeff

On Thursday, November 21, 2019 at 4:05:17 AM UTC-8, Mark Roland wrote:
>
> A low mileage 173 Silver crankset from Rivendell Bicycle Works. Lightly 
> pre-scuffed, including Silver logo, low, low mileage, still 250,000 miles 
> or many millions of revolutions* to go! Yours today for just $160! You 
> heard right, $160! Act now and I will include the bottom bracket--and pay 
> for the shipping! Why am I selling this beautiful, functional piece of 
> cycling history? Because I have two! Make one yours today. Please contact 
> off list. (Dealer fees and local taxes extra, but will not be charged! 
> May cause sudden bursts of speed and/or extreme enjoyment. *Guaranteed, or 
> to the end of your driveway, whichever comes second.)
>
> [image: MVIMG_20191006_123456198(1).jpg]
>
> [image: MVIMG_20191006_123446399(1).jpg]
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Bicycle Lights for Commuting

[Jeffrey Arita]

SON hub + Edelux II.

SON hub + Sinewave Cycles Beacon.

Another recommendation is to wear those ankle reflectors.  Good luck!

Jeff

On Monday, November 4, 2019 at 9:48:18 PM UTC-8, DHans wrote:
>
> With the time change I will be biking home in the dark. I’m curious about 
> your light setup for riding in the dark. Also favorite light brands. 
> Thanks. 
> Doug

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Re: [RBW] Rebuilding MKS Touring Pedals

[Jeffrey Arita]

+1 regarding Patrick Moore's comments.

I have found after cleaning and regreasing the components, that the 
re-adjustment back to 'just right' can be a fair amount of 
trial-and-error.  It can be done but patience is necessary.

I have also found the following to be extremely useful to capture all of 
those darned loose ball bearings:

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W9100-Magnetic-Pick-Up/dp/B00276MRT2/ref=sr_1_7?hvadid=17342947=c=9031212=g=1t1=b=17420540817160236484=kwd-67460143889=magnetic+telescoping+pickup+tool=1555358101=gateway=8-7

Deacon Patrick, do you also have the MKS dustcap tool?  Riv sells them

Good luck!

Jeff 

On Monday, April 15, 2019 at 8:01:06 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I take it these are the old Touring pedal, not the more expensive and 
> cartridge bearing model ...
>
> If the pedals are dry but not gritty, one option is to shoot them full of 
> thick grease using a grease gun. Another is to set them on end and dribble 
> heavy oil, like Phi'ls, into the, and let them sit.
>
> Are these new pedals? -- ie bearings typically overtight and underlubed? 
> For years I've dribbled oil and simply ridden the bearings smooth; they 
> still last a long time without need for further intervention.
>
> The processes for disassembly and re-assembly is complicated by wee little 
> bearings and wee little cones and wee little locknuts, and locknuts on 
> rather imprecise threads so that it's rather delicate to find the bearing 
> load that doesn't become too high when tightening the locknut. Sorry, don't 
> have a video to share, but the technique is the same for all loose bearing 
> pedals, and any video on rebuilding these should suffice.
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 15, 2019 at 8:50 AM 'Deacon Patrick' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com > wrote:
>
>> Can anyone recommend a good video for rebuilding MKS Touring pedals? 
>> Standard cone bearings. I don't think I need new bearings, just to open 
>> them up and lube. Is that as simple as remove the end cap, insert lube, 
>> replace end cap? If so, no video required. Grin.
>>
>> With abandon,
>> Patrick
>>
>> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>> www.CatholicHalos.org
>> www.DeaconPatrick.org
>>
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>> .
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>> For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
>
>
>
> **
>
>
>
>
>
> *Still 'round the corner there may waitA new road or a secret gate,And 
> though we pass them by today,Tomorrow we may come this wayAnd take the 
> hidden paths that runTowards the Moon or to the Sun.*
> --- J.R.R. Tolkien
> ---
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching
> Other professional writing services
> Expensive! But good.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
>
>

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[RBW] Ride Report: Eastern Cape, North Island, New Zealand

[Jeffrey Arita]

Ok John, in my book you win the contest for best life experience description!  
You wrote as well as.

Will definitely put this on our bucket list.  Thank you for posting!

All the Best (as)

Jeff

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[RBW] To Helmet or not

[Jeffrey Arita]

+2 for wearing a helmet.  My wife crashed very recently (wet bike path, 
off-camber, downhill turn) and landed almost head first.  Cracked helmet in 3 
places...she (and I) without further comment understood what could have 
happened...

Jeff

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Re: [RBW] Re: Whoah! 1 x 12?????

[Jeffrey Arita]

Patrick,

We (wife and me) have been friction shifting for oh, maybe 10 years now.  
Mostly 9 speed because it works wonderfullywe just got rando-type bikes and 
went to the dark side (11 speed drivetrain).  To be fair, both bikes came stock 
with 11 speed.  We did appreciate the dual-control levers (Shimano Ultegra) but 
I changed them out to microSHIFT 11 speed mountain (bar cons no less) 
specifically for the friction mode (they also shift indexed with Shimano 
Dyna-Sys mountain derailleurs).

Shifting works quite well!

Best,

Jeff

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[RBW] Re: My wife's request for a bike tour

[Jeffrey Arita]

Hi Kip!

Congratulations and good luck on your adventure next summer!  *Being able 
to have your entire family experience this is absolutely priceless.*

My wife and I recently returned home (Southern California) from a long 
adventure (I don't want to bore everyone with the details).  As part of the 
adventure we took the Pacific Coast Route home from Canada.

There are way too many details to provide but we can communicate offline if 
you prefer with your questions or concerns.  In a nutshell my wife and I 
encourage you (or anyone) to get out and simply do it.

Best regards,

Jeff Arita
Claremont, CA


On Sunday, October 7, 2018 at 4:57:13 PM UTC-7, Kip Otteson wrote:
>
> My wife requested that we do a bike tour this upcoming summer.  This is a 
> pretty rare request and when she mentioned it I jumped at the chance.  I'm 
> planning on riding the Pacific Coast route as laid out by Adventure 
> Cycling.  We are not doing the whole trip, but are going to be riding from 
> Southern Oregon and will be ending up in the OC.  The crew will be me, my 
> wife, and two kids, daughter (12) and son (15).  We have ridden a few tours 
> in SE Asia but nothing this long.  Not remotely.  I'll be on my Bombadil, 
> my wife on her Heron, and my son on a Surly Pack Rat, daughter on an 86' 
> Panasonic Mountain Cat 4500.  We plan on being on the road from the 10th of 
> June till around the middle of July.  We are both school teachers so this 
> is doable as far as work is concerned.  Being teachers, we are on a budget 
> and plan on camping as much as we can.  We have used Warm Showers in the 
> past and are hosts.  That is a great deal, for sure. 
>
> I'm looking for any suggestions from folks that have done this.  Good 
> places to camp, words of advice on road conditions, etc.   
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Kip 
>

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[RBW] Re: HHH tool kit and other brainstorming

[Jeffrey Arita]

Hi Tony,

First congrats on your HHH.  Tandems are a blast!

I would add my 2 cents:  Depending how far you may be traveling and the 
likelihood of being far from a good bike shop, consider the following:

- Does the multi-tool have a masterlink removal tool?  If not, such a tool 
might help out in a pinch.
- HHH-specific eccentric spanner wrench?  Our tandem has the Bushnell 
eccentric which requires a spanner (Park tool) to adjust tension on the 
timing chain.  I would agree that it does not typically require a lot 
adjustment but if it becomes loose..
- I appreciate that you have a multi-tool...consider using that tool on all 
the fasteners, bolts, etc., on the tandem in a safe environment *before 
*venturing 
out.  Better to find out in a safe environment vs. ?  I ditched the 
multi-tools as I found I could not reach all of the fasteners.   I now 
carry separate Bondhus wrenches (hex, Torx) wrapped together with hook & 
loop.
- Spare fasteners?  Consider installing spare fasteners & washers on unused 
braze-ons on the frame.  If not there, carry spares in an empty patch kit 
box whose lid is secured with Gorilla tape.  Spares would possibly include 
disc rotor fixing bolts (kinda unique), new disc-specific brake pads, spare 
brake pad fixing bolt & secure clip, etc.
- Spare spokes and nipples?  Spoke(s) for drive and non-drive side of rear 
wheel?  Front wheel?
- Spoke wrench for above nipples?
- Cassette cracker tool (for drive-side spokes)?  We carry the Stein tool.  
Hopefully will never have to use it but carrying spare spokes/nipples and 
spoke wrench kinda useless unless you have this.

++

I realize one can carry this wy too far but on a tandem it is kinda 
important (IMHO) for a happy stoker!

HAVE FUN ON YOUR TANDEM!!

Best regards,

Jeff

On Tuesday, June 19, 2018 at 9:59:39 AM UTC-7, Tony DeFilippo wrote:
>
> Slowly but surely my size small, blue HHH is rounding into shape.  I had a 
> frustrating aborted ride last weekend after I developed a rub in the rear 
> disc brake - I'm still learning about adjustments on that device.  But that 
> aside it's fully ride-able and we've gotten a number of <15 mile rides and 
> we're planning a couple of full day efforts for the week of July 4th.  I 
> also just ordered a matched set of the grey grid bags for the bike, a 
> medium sackville, a small saddlesack, and an extra small saddlesack.  So 
> now I need to outfit the bike with it's own set of tools and ready spares 
> so it's always ready to go and I'm not constantly grabbing odds and ends 
> from my wife's Clementine or my Saluki.  Here is my list so far, I'd love 
> some feedback and discussion about what folks keep in they're rolling tool 
> kits.
>
> Medium Sackville (front Wald 137)
> -mostly day-of decision items tailored to the trip
> -rain gear, if necessary
> -camera, if necessary
> -snacks/food
> -keys, wallets, phone charger
> -misc last minute items
>
> Small Saddlesack(mounted behind stoker, also this bag will get shared w/ 
> the clementine)
> -2 tubes
> -overflow from sackville
> -toddler stuff; change of clothes, diapers, wipes and so forth
>
> Extra Small Saddlesack (mounted under capt seat/stocker bars)
> -1 tube
> -Steel core tire levers x2
> -Crank Bros multi tool
> -Leatherman multi tool (original)
> -Zip Ties
> -Surly long toe strap
> -Bit of duck tape (emergency tire repair)
> -Mini First aid kit
> -Spare chain links and master links 
> -Patch kit (not sure why i bother given my lack of success w/ this)
>
> On the frame
> -Zefal X4 frame pump
>
>
> What do you think, what am I missing?
>
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: Another chain question

[Jeffrey Arita]

Michael,

We use SRAM and KMC 9 speed chains.  Both shift well.  Because I am frugal 
I made my own chain tools:  Took a pair of small scissors and Dremeled out 
a radius on both blades of the scissors.  Grab the chain with the 'tool', 
squeeze the links with your fingers and the chain breaks.  You can buy the 
tool as well.

Best regards,

Jeff

On Sunday, June 3, 2018 at 4:13:07 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> I have been using the Conex 908 chains on all my bikes for many years and 
> like both the way they shift and that their quick link works so much better 
> than shimano & Sram links.  Now I see that the RBW site describes the KMC 
> quick link as "the best."  Most links are pretty easy to put on but hard to 
> get off.  Does anyone here have experience with these chains & links? How 
> do they stack up to  others.
>
> Michael
>

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[RBW] Re: Keto next week: how do i not bonk?

[Jeffrey Arita]

Fantastic, Deacon Patrick!  

Best regards,

Jeff

On Thursday, May 24, 2018 at 2:48:16 PM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
> Your body has to learn to drink deep fat instead of sucking sugar. You may 
> bonk. Continue slowly anyway. 20 miles RT is nothing for once you are fat 
> adapted. I do century rides without eating anything, having fasted since 
> dinner the day before. But it takes time. 
>
> If you bonk: Stop. Rest. Give your body (liver, I think?) time to catch 
> up, to learn to use unused muscles. They have to get stronger and 
> rediscover how to function. 20-30 minutes. Then ride on, slow. You may have 
> to ride maddeningly slow. That’s just fine. Your body will get better and 
> stronger at this and you will improve. You may ride half the time, rest 
> half. That’s ok. My rule of thumb is the body takes 3 months to make an 
> initial adjustement to any big change — and that’s just the initial 
> adjustement. Grin. Other benchmarks are 9 mo. , 18 mo, and 3 years. Persist 
> for three months, keeping a log of info that seems pertinant along the way 
> if you like. Then look back and be amazed at how far you’ve come. 
>
> Some people make the shift more easily if they allow themselves to sip 
> their sugar instead of gulp, slowly weaning themselves off it. I find this 
> just prolongs the challenge, but if it works for you, go for it! Try cold 
> turkey first, though, and see how that goes. 
>
> For reference, I can’t imagine grabbing food or drink for a 20 mile ride, 
> unless I plan on lazing about along the way and then I bring coffee. 
> (You’ll discover you need a lot less water without carbs). 
>
> Let us know how you do! 
>
> With abandon, 
> Patrick

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[RBW] Re: Riv complete: appropriate mechanical expectations?

[Jeffrey Arita]

Hi Rod,

Back in 2011 my wife and I took delivery of two complete Riv builds: Betty 
Foy for her and AHH for me.  Both builds were professionally assembled, 
adjusted and tested.  Not sure about the framesaver - probably not but in 
reality unless one lives in a nasty climate the frames should still last a 
long, long time.  The other nice thing to recall is the frame and fork are 
steel (especially the fork's steerer tube).  All parts can be nicely 
snugged down without fear of snappage or breakage (it is always good to use 
a torque wrench).  Confidence in a long-lasting bicycle without fear is 
very high.  I do qualify this statement by saying regular maintenance and 
inspections should be performed and any suspect parts be replaced as soon 
as possible.  Happy cycling!

Best regards,

Jeff

 

On Tuesday, May 22, 2018 at 9:02:23 AM UTC-7, Rod Holland wrote:
>
> Thanks, all, for sharing your experience with this. Most all the fittings 
> I had occasion to expose were well-prepared (grease, anti-seize, loctite, 
> or light oil). There were one or two exceptions, but they were easy to 
> recognize and deal with, and tended to be trivial anyway (e.g., fender 
> mount bolts on the fork). And EVERYTHING that could be tuned, was tuned: no 
> fussing with brakes or derailleurs. Now, I didn't pull the bottom bracket 
> to check for grease, and didn't want to add a 3-day delay for a 
> conscientious frame-saver application (I reckon that can keep until the 
> Winter bike-tinkering season). I just put everything that wasn't put 
> together, together, added grease, anti-seize, or Tri-Flow as needed, and 
> pretty soon it was a bike. 
>
> Thank you, Rivendell!
>
> rod
>
> On Monday, May 21, 2018 at 11:04:03 AM UTC-4, Rod Holland wrote:
>>
>> I've just taken delivery of a Clem-L complete, a gift for my girlfriend. 
>> As I get set to attach pedals, saddle, bell, etc., it occurs to me to ask 
>> what people's experience with the mechanical preparation of Rivendell 
>> completes has been. Should I expect that everything that should be lubed, 
>> has been lubed? Do I need to second-guess the build? I've never heard 
>> stories of that sort here, so I'm guessing not. What are people's 
>> expectations for finishing/prepping a newly-delivered Riv complete bike? 
>>
>> Related question: does Riv normally frame-save their complete bikes?
>>
>> rod
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: GDMBR with Adventure Cycling

[Jeffrey Arita]

Hi Bill,

Ah, got it on the ACA tourMy wife and I have never been up in the 
Canadian Rockies by bicycle so it will be a "first-time" experience for 
us.  From Mexico to Butte, MT we had the good fortune to see all the riders 
headed southbound.  We saw ALL kinds of bikes on the Divide.  Many of the 
Europeans brought their standard touring bicycles (front and rear racks 
with panniers) with relatively narrow Schwalbe touring tires.  They got 
along fine!  Have a great time!

Best regards,

Jeff

On Monday, May 14, 2018 at 6:39:26 AM UTC-7, Bill Schairer wrote:
>
> First, I thought I posted a reply to everyone thanking for all the good 
> wishes but I don't see it.
>
> Second, Jeff, what I'm going on is one of ACA's organized tours from Banff 
> to Whitefish, MT.  I saw that about the route extension to Jasper for their 
> maps but I'm quite certain Jasper will not be our starting point on the 
> tour.  Maybe next time.  This is my first organized tour so I'm a bit 
> nervous about that.  I've always toured with friends or family but nobody I 
> know wants to do self contained camping anymore much less off road and I 
> don't want to make my first off road by myself, so...
>
> I have done Jasper to Banff on the Icefields Parkway back in 1982 and it 
> was spectacular.  Truly a can't miss ride.
>
> On Saturday, May 12, 2018 at 8:34:10 AM UTC-7, Jeffrey Arita wrote:
>>
>> Hey Bill,
>>
>> Have a BLAST on the GDMBR!  Looks like you have prepped very well.
>>
>> Will the ACA allow you to start from Jasper, this being the 20th 
>> Anniversary of the GD?  The ACA is supposed to have the map section for the 
>> Canada portion updated to have the new terminus in Jasper (vs. Banff) by 
>> June 15th or so.  An additional 387 miles, through some of the most 
>> gorgeous scenery on the planet.  My wife called and their website says June 
>> 15 but verbally they are not committing to any specific date for public 
>> availability of the revised map section :(
>>
>> My wife and I are headed back up to Butte, MT late June / early July.  We 
>> are northbounders.  Last year we departed Puerto Palomas (alternate 
>> end/start) and made it to Butte before the first snows hit in 
>> mid-September.  We hit the pause button in 2017.  So, we are hitting the 
>> re-start button and maybe we will encounter you later this year?  When do 
>> you depart?
>>
>> Best regards,
>>
>> Jeff
>>
>> On Friday, May 11, 2018 at 3:52:24 PM UTC-7, Bill Schairer wrote:
>>>
>>> Just received final confirmation (on my 65th birthday) from AC that our 
>>> tour from Banff to Whitefish on the GDMBR is officially a go. I have been 
>>> excitedly prepping myself and my Atlantis for this adventure. Hanging from 
>>> the frame will be:
>>>
>>>
>>> Bruce Gordon front and rear racks
>>>
>>> VO decaleur front rack
>>>
>>> 3 cheapo/clearance water bottle cages from Nashbar
>>>
>>> B17 saddle, very well broken in and so comfortable
>>>
>>> Sugino triple 46/36/24
>>>
>>> Shimano A530 pedals (spd one side, platform the other)
>>>
>>> Suntour Cyclone FD
>>>
>>> Suntour VGT RD
>>>
>>> Suntour bar-end friction shifters
>>>
>>> Shimano HG-400-9 12-36 cassette
>>>
>>> Crane Creek brake levers on Specialized 40mm drop bars (swapped from 
>>> stoker position on tandem for Albastache)
>>>
>>> Shimano cantilever brakes
>>>
>>> Deore LX 32/36 hubs laced by RL to Velocity Synergy 700C rims
>>>
>>> Schwalbe Mondial 50mm tires (measure at 47-48 @ 40 psi on the Velocity 
>>> rims)
>>>
>>>
>>> I’ve decided against fenders because clearance is so tight, I am not 
>>> sure I can fit them in the bike box, it will simplify break down and 
>>> reassembly (which I’ll be doing myself), and it will reduce toe overlap. I 
>>> may decide to borrow 40 hole, White Industries, Velocity Dyad front wheel 
>>> from tandem but probably not. I’ll box the bike myself in a Bikeflights 
>>> cardboard box and check for $25 on Alaskan Airlines.
>>>
>>> May opt for a smaller water bottle on the bottom - that’s pretty tight. 
>>> 40+ year old Kirtland handlebar bag, Beckman front and rear panniers. I 
>>> suspect there will be some modifications yet as I ride and fiddle. 
>>> Certainly, this is no UL rig but I can and have lifted it over obstacles as 
>>> much as 2 ft high.  Maybe I'll be lucky and get a "whatever it takes" 
&g

[RBW] Re: GDMBR with Adventure Cycling

[Jeffrey Arita]

Hey Bill,

Have a BLAST on the GDMBR!  Looks like you have prepped very well.

Will the ACA allow you to start from Jasper, this being the 20th 
Anniversary of the GD?  The ACA is supposed to have the map section for the 
Canada portion updated to have the new terminus in Jasper (vs. Banff) by 
June 15th or so.  An additional 387 miles, through some of the most 
gorgeous scenery on the planet.  My wife called and their website says June 
15 but verbally they are not committing to any specific date for public 
availability of the revised map section :(

My wife and I are headed back up to Butte, MT late June / early July.  We 
are northbounders.  Last year we departed Puerto Palomas (alternate 
end/start) and made it to Butte before the first snows hit in 
mid-September.  We hit the pause button in 2017.  So, we are hitting the 
re-start button and maybe we will encounter you later this year?  When do 
you depart?

Best regards,

Jeff

On Friday, May 11, 2018 at 3:52:24 PM UTC-7, Bill Schairer wrote:
>
> Just received final confirmation (on my 65th birthday) from AC that our 
> tour from Banff to Whitefish on the GDMBR is officially a go. I have been 
> excitedly prepping myself and my Atlantis for this adventure. Hanging from 
> the frame will be:
>
>
> Bruce Gordon front and rear racks
>
> VO decaleur front rack
>
> 3 cheapo/clearance water bottle cages from Nashbar
>
> B17 saddle, very well broken in and so comfortable
>
> Sugino triple 46/36/24
>
> Shimano A530 pedals (spd one side, platform the other)
>
> Suntour Cyclone FD
>
> Suntour VGT RD
>
> Suntour bar-end friction shifters
>
> Shimano HG-400-9 12-36 cassette
>
> Crane Creek brake levers on Specialized 40mm drop bars (swapped from 
> stoker position on tandem for Albastache)
>
> Shimano cantilever brakes
>
> Deore LX 32/36 hubs laced by RL to Velocity Synergy 700C rims
>
> Schwalbe Mondial 50mm tires (measure at 47-48 @ 40 psi on the Velocity 
> rims)
>
>
> I’ve decided against fenders because clearance is so tight, I am not sure 
> I can fit them in the bike box, it will simplify break down and reassembly 
> (which I’ll be doing myself), and it will reduce toe overlap. I may decide 
> to borrow 40 hole, White Industries, Velocity Dyad front wheel from tandem 
> but probably not. I’ll box the bike myself in a Bikeflights cardboard box 
> and check for $25 on Alaskan Airlines.
>
> May opt for a smaller water bottle on the bottom - that’s pretty tight. 
> 40+ year old Kirtland handlebar bag, Beckman front and rear panniers. I 
> suspect there will be some modifications yet as I ride and fiddle. 
> Certainly, this is no UL rig but I can and have lifted it over obstacles as 
> much as 2 ft high.  Maybe I'll be lucky and get a "whatever it takes" 
> comment.
>
> I have plenty of touring experience but do not have a lot of off-pavement 
> experience. I have been doing some practicing here in San Diego to try to 
> get ready. I have successfully taken this unloaded up a about half-mile 
> 15-22% gravel grade but only made it up about half way on my one and only 
> loaded attempt. Pushing the rest of the way was no picnic. I will try again 
> doubtlessly. I’m a little concerned about climbs like this at altitude but 
> one way or another, I’ll manage. Interestingly (to me), I’ve found riding 
> loaded on gravel is easier for me (except for steepest grades) than 
> unloaded. I don’t have to concentrate so much on keeping my weight back or 
> worry about lifting the front wheel. The load also seems to smooth out the 
> rough a bit and the ride feels more stable to me. It is harder to correct 
> my line if I lose it though, especially climbing.
>
>
> As excited as I am, my wife is a bit peeved as I start on her birthday. 
> I’ve tried to explain that this is when the tour is offered so there really 
> wasn’t any choice and I’m getting to the point in life where I have to stop 
> dreaming of doing these things and just do them.
>
>
> Oh, and other RBW content, MUSA pants will double as my off bike pants and 
> rain/wind pants. My wife even gave me another pair for my birthday because 
> she knows I like them so much. Sorry for the length of post but I’m excited!
>
>
> Unloaded and loaded (projected) attached?
>
>
> Bill
>

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[RBW] Re: Single Speed in/around LA?

[Jeffrey Arita]

Hi Reid,

I am a resident of one of the numerous suburbs around Los Angeles 
(Claremont).  Assuming you are staying near the Pasadena area and you want 
to ride 'trails' (meaning dirt), you will likely want to bring a geared 
bike.  This assumes you want to do a lot the trails just north of Pasadena, 
within a VERY easy ride from the Huntington Library.  All you have to do is 
look due North and go up!  Once you reach the dirt trails they do go 
vertical quite quickly and stay that way until you get to the top.  Good 
brakes are a good thing too when you come down.

https://www.mtbproject.com/directory/8017025/pasadena

Some points to consider:


   - Even though you are really, really close to 'civilization' a short 
   ride up into the mountains will mean you are pretty much on your own.  Any 
   accident and it could be a helicopter ride out.  The terrain is quite steep 
   (that is why it is so hard to put the brush fires out).
   - It is getting warmer here in SoCal.  Might be a good idea to bring a 
   hydration pack, first aid kit, mobile phone and lights.  You never know 
   (see above bullet point).
   - We were up at the top of Mount Wilson last year on a bikepacking 
   trip.  At the top are numerous microwave towers and (I think) cell phone 
   towers.  I had ZERO cell phone signal.  Go figure.
   - Tell someone where you are going and when you plan on being back.  If 
   you aren't back at the appointed time, have your person call for help and 
   possibly summon rescue.  Again, it is so close to civilization but it is 
   the real deal.  Water is scarce and you could be in a world of hurt, 
   especially if by yourself.

Sorry to sound so negative but I'd rather be blunt and clear about the 
mountains that are so close to Pasadena.

++

IF you are sticking to sealed (aka paved) roads, then I think you can 
easily navigate them with a singlespeed.  Most of the paved roads are 
engineered so hills should not be a huge issue.

Have fun!

Jeff

On Monday, April 23, 2018 at 10:47:25 AM UTC-7, Reid Echols wrote:
>
> Hi folks, I'll be traveling from Austin to Los Angeles in a few short 
> weeks for a fellowship at the Huntington Library, and am between bringing a 
> "beater" aluminum 29er I could build up from spare parts or my trusty BMC 
> Monstercross, currently set up as a "dinglespeed" with 43c gravel tires. I 
> can handle most of the Austin hills pretty handily, and really enjoy riding 
> the BMC on local singletrack (not too many rock gardens, just the faster, 
> flowy stuff). 
>
> My question is, will I be able to fully enjoy the trails near LA on a 
> singlespeed, cross-style bike, or am I displaying a bit of hubris and 
> should just bring the more traditional mountain bike for the climbing 
> gears? I'll be commuting to the Huntington as well and don't want anything 
> too flashy lest it be stolen. Local perspectives would be welcome! 
>
> All best, 
> Reid in Austin 
>

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