[RBW] Re: Imminent Mystery Bike Reveal

2012-07-31 Thread newenglandbike
That's awesome! Can't wait to see it.



On Tuesday, July 31, 2012 4:38:41 PM UTC-4, Pudge wrote:

  Dave at Riv just called to get my shipping address for the Mystery Bike 
 -- it's going out in the next day or two.  Yippee!  Pics as soon as it 
 arrives, I promise.

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[RBW] Re: Does this Betty Foy Look Different to you?

2012-07-10 Thread newenglandbike
Nice lookin' bike.The straight line definitely looks good.



On Tuesday, July 10, 2012 10:10:53 AM UTC-4, Peter Pesce wrote:

 Hmm. I think you're right. I always disliked the bent line also. 


 -Pete in CT

 On Tuesday, July 10, 2012 1:14:43 AM UTC-4, Rocky B wrote:

 Take a look at the frame lines of this Betty Foy: 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/10344790@N06/7514719444/in/pool-rivendell

 Is it me or does it looks like the top tube and the mid-seat stays line 
 up?   

 ...because I've always wished they were built like that.

 Rocky



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[RBW] Re: Tubus Cosmo and ~64cm Frame size?

2012-07-04 Thread newenglandbike
Not that the OP should have any problem with the tubus cosmo on his frame- 
   but tire/wheel size is not the only thing to consider, and there is a 
point where many racks do not fit well on larger frames, because the seat 
stays are angled much more steeply and this pushes the rack mounts 
(braze-ons) out over the rear hub.If the rack has adjustable top stays 
that can retract to account for it (I think all the tubus ones do) then 
there's no problem, but some lower-end racks don't have that adjustability, 
so you end up with a rack that looks like it is tipping backwards.

Anyway good luck :)


Matt

On Tuesday, July 3, 2012 7:30:49 PM UTC-4, Leslie wrote:

 I've got a pair of Cosmos on my 56 Bombadil (650b w/2.3 and SKS 
 fenders)...  works great (front was a trick to mount, but the rear was 
 easy).  

 Thing is, is shouldn't matter if it's a 56 or a 60 or a 64; the wheelsize 
 is going to be the same (my fat 650b is as tall as my 60 Ram wearing 700c 
 32's...); yes, your seat tube will lengthen, as will the top tube, bottom 
 tube, forks;  but the braze-ons should be at the same distance above the 
 axles, regardless of the size..  

 I think you'll be fine.

 FWIW, I like my Cosmos...



 On Monday, July 2, 2012 7:40:34 PM UTC-4, HKett wrote:

 Hi everyone, I have a 64cm Atlantis and right now I have a standard 
 blackburn rack on it that is too small to get level and as thus presses 
 against my fenders and causes rubbing. So I've decided to get a new rack, 
 and the Tubus Cosmo looks perfect for what I want. I've placed a backorder 
 at the local bike shop, but they won't get stock for a few weeks, so before 
 I wait a while, get it, and realize it doesn't fit, does anyone have 
 experience with the Cosmo and a ~64cm frame, Atlantis or similar?

 Thanks in advance!

 -Holger



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[RBW] Re: Betties and Sams and paint choices

2012-07-04 Thread newenglandbike
That's funny about the o.g. green and gold Hillborne-   my gf loved that 
color at first sight, and she barely looked at the orange one they had 
right beside it at Harris... she ended up getting the green one.  I have to 
admit I am partial to the original yellowish green with gold decals too, 
though the orange was cool.   It doesn't look 'pimped out' or gaudy to me 
at all but rather more subdued than the metallic orange.

Matt

On Wednesday, July 4, 2012 12:27:30 PM UTC-4, Andy Smitty Schmidt wrote:

 I was in a similar position as you, Earl. The wife was skeptical of a Riv 
 because of cost (her $400 Kona - actually $600 after adding fenders, racks, 
 and new seat - was her most expensive bike to date), and she wasn't a huge 
 fan of the color. We have family in CA so were able to go by Riv HQ on a 
 trip to visit the fam. She got over the cost hump by riding one and seeing 
 the craftsmanship/details of the Betty firsthand (she instantly fell in 
 love with it). Once she loved the ride and general aesthetic of Betty, the 
 obvious choice was to get a custom color. Vince was a trooper to bring out 
 frame after frame from the attic until she found the color she wanted. The 
 color she ended up picking was the original Sam Hillborne green w/ cream 
 details.https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/jLOL1qDlVSId6zim3LQ-wNMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlinkI
  know what you mean about the SH green w/gold decals but it's a completely 
 different look with cream HT, accents,  decals.

 I know this doesn't really address your Q about why the color doesn't 
 change from batch to batch. I'm not privy to that info. I also see that 
 your signature indicates that you're overseas, so a trip to Riv HQ may not 
 be as easy. 

 FWIW... We've had Big Betty a little over a year and the wife still 
 adores it and loves to ride it. 

 good luck.  

 --Andy


 On Wednesday, July 4, 2012 8:09:19 AM UTC-7, Earl Grey wrote:

 Can anyone explain to me (I know, I should write Grant) why the Sam 
 has gone through 4 gorgeous paint choices (the only one I didn't like 
 was the original green, but only because of the gold decals; too much 
 like a pimped Lexus), and Betty is still on her first (not terrible) 
 paint job. True, there is Ives Gomez, but he sports the same IMHO 
 tasteless gold decals. 

 This seems even stranger because of the perceived notion that color 
 has a much larger influence in women's bike buying decisions. Lest I 
 be accused of prejudice, my own wife and several female friends have 
 confirmed this (I know, small sample size). 

 Why do I care? I have been wanting to buy my wife a Betty Foy for a 
 while, and she actually wants one, but she pretty much hates the 
 color, nor does she like black and gold. Upon asking her what color 
 she DOES like, she can't actually give an answer beyond I'd have to 
 look at a bunch of bikes. Oh well, at least she knows what she 
 dislikes, and I am not among them. 

 Nonetheless, I have a feeling that she is not alone, and that 
 switching Betty's color every couple of re-orders would increase 
 sales, as it would increase the color choices over time, and might 
 also lead to the-red-ones-are-going-away-get-yours-now-type sales. If 
 the Betty came in a color my wife liked, and that color was going 
 away, I would have bought one already. 

 Cheers, 

 Gernot 
 Thailand



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Re: [RBW] Re: The New Riv

2012-07-04 Thread newenglandbike
+1 for no problems with horiz. dropouts and QRs. I certainly haven't 
had any issues with slippage on my quickbeam with the stock Suzue QR hub, 
and I've really stomped on the pedals sometimes.  BUT, I do like 
vertical dropouts nonetheless, since they are just that much easier when 
you're fixing a flat or what not since the wheel is aligned as soon as you 
drop it in.If you want to make a SS/fixie, you have eccentric hubs.


On Wednesday, July 4, 2012 1:42:31 PM UTC-4, Peter M wrote:

 20 years of riding at least 10 different bikes with horizontal drops,  
 never an issue with slipping and again 30 seconds to set up oh and I am 240 
 and rode fixes with horizontal drops, again no slipping. Options are nice, 
 especially if they want to get a broad audience.  
 On Jul 4, 2012 1:34 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 I agree that verticals are better for derailleurs, but what about
 buyers who may want to use a ss hub or hub gear? Are they to be
 deprived of the cheapest Rivendell?

 Note that this comes from someone who overrode Grant's suggestion of
 horizontals for two customs and ended up fixi-fying them: one with an
 ENO and one with replacement 1010s.

 On Wed, Jul 4, 2012 at 11:20 AM, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
  Heartily agreed, steve.
 
  -sv
 
  On Jul 4, 2012 1:11 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 
  On Wed, 2012-07-04 at 11:53 -0400, Peter Morgano wrote:
   +1 on all that, especially horizontal drops
 
  Why?  They're an enormous pain in the a$$ with no benefit for users of
  derailleur drive trains, and this bike is coming with a derailleur 
 drive
  train.
 
 
  
   On Wed, Jul 4, 2012 at 11:44 AM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com
   wrote:
   I guess that the Xmart crowd often (not always, of course)
   spends high
   $ on cars and big trucks a lot fancier than many listers own,
   along
   with big TVs, electronic junk and fancy phones/service, at
   least to
   judge by what I see in the parking lot and on the shelves at
   my (as
   rare as possible) trips to the WalMart near my mother's 
 house.
  
   I hope the new bike has horizontal dropouts.
 
 
 
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: The New Riv

2012-07-04 Thread newenglandbike

I like how anyone who wants options is like a leper, haha.  you have 
eccentric hubs  Let us eat cake!

LOL!   It's a bike Rivendell might offer, that might have vertical 
dropouts, or might have horizontal ones. Both afford the user options, 
both have drawbacks.   Nobody is shunning/oppressing anybody, I don't 
think!  This is a bicycle forum, so expect some zealotry but don't let 
it make you feel bad.:)


On Wednesday, July 4, 2012 2:35:58 PM UTC-4, Peter M wrote:

 I like how anyone who wants options is like a leper, haha.  you have 
 eccentric hubs  Let us eat cake! 
 On Jul 4, 2012 2:06 PM, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.net wrote:

 I've had slipping rear wheel problems, it's annoying, and I've even heard 
 of some reputable people struggle with it. We're capable of functioning 
 with horizontals, but as Steve said, they can be a pain.

 - Jim W.

 Sent from my iPhone

 On Jul 4, 2012, at 10:42 AM, Peter Morgano uscpeter11...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

 20 years of riding at least 10 different bikes with horizontal drops,  
 never an issue with slipping and again 30 seconds to set up oh and I am 240 
 and rode fixes with horizontal drops, again no slipping. Options are nice, 
 especially if they want to get a broad audience.  
 On Jul 4, 2012 1:34 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 I agree that verticals are better for derailleurs, but what about
 buyers who may want to use a ss hub or hub gear? Are they to be
 deprived of the cheapest Rivendell?

 Note that this comes from someone who overrode Grant's suggestion of
 horizontals for two customs and ended up fixi-fying them: one with an
 ENO and one with replacement 1010s.

 On Wed, Jul 4, 2012 at 11:20 AM, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:
  Heartily agreed, steve.
 
  -sv
 
  On Jul 4, 2012 1:11 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
 
  On Wed, 2012-07-04 at 11:53 -0400, Peter Morgano wrote:
   +1 on all that, especially horizontal drops
 
  Why?  They're an enormous pain in the a$$ with no benefit for users of
  derailleur drive trains, and this bike is coming with a derailleur 
 drive
  train.
 
 
  
   On Wed, Jul 4, 2012 at 11:44 AM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com
 
   wrote:
   I guess that the Xmart crowd often (not always, of course)
   spends high
   $ on cars and big trucks a lot fancier than many listers 
 own,
   along
   with big TVs, electronic junk and fancy phones/service, at
   least to
   judge by what I see in the parking lot and on the shelves at
   my (as
   rare as possible) trips to the WalMart near my mother's 
 house.
  
   I hope the new bike has horizontal dropouts.
 
 
 
 
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 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
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[RBW] Re: Tubus Cosmo and ~64cm Frame size?

2012-07-03 Thread newenglandbike
I don't have a tubus cosmo, but I do have a Tubus cargo and it works fine 
on a 65cm frame.  I hope yours works well on your setup.



On Monday, July 2, 2012 7:40:34 PM UTC-4, HKett wrote:

 Hi everyone, I have a 64cm Atlantis and right now I have a standard 
 blackburn rack on it that is too small to get level and as thus presses 
 against my fenders and causes rubbing. So I've decided to get a new rack, 
 and the Tubus Cosmo looks perfect for what I want. I've placed a backorder 
 at the local bike shop, but they won't get stock for a few weeks, so before 
 I wait a while, get it, and realize it doesn't fit, does anyone have 
 experience with the Cosmo and a ~64cm frame, Atlantis or similar?

 Thanks in advance!

 -Holger


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Re: [RBW] Re: rene herse crank

2012-05-31 Thread newenglandbike
For those who are using Sugino cranks: I've been using the Surly steel 
110bcd chainrings on my Sugino XD and AT cranksets for a while now, because 
of the softness issue with the Sugino rings-  they just wear out way too 
fast.  Definitely no issues with the steel rings.   they are great. 

I like the gearing flexibility that new RH cranks offer, and agree with 
previous posters, that the price is still a small part of the cost of a 
good bike.


-Matt

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[RBW] Re: Schwalbe and flats: Is it just me?

2012-05-18 Thread newenglandbike
I have experienced this same phenomenon with a set of nokian 
hakkapalitta(sp?) studded tires recently.Those things NEVER flat.  
After the second slow flat in a row, I figured it must be something wedged 
in the casing. It was NOT easy to find, but it was a small sliver of 
rusted metal about 3mm long-   tiny! I still don't know what the heck 
it came from, or how it got wedged so deep into the tire.   I guess it 
could have been from a chunk of rusted snowplow blade or something.   

Matt

On Thursday, May 17, 2012 12:04:50 PM UTC-4, Philip Williamson wrote:

 If you haven't found the culprit, it could still be in there. I like the 
 idea of marking the tire, but I've never done that. I reuse my patched 
 tubes, which might give a little extra protection if there is a 'gremlin' 
 in the tire casing. Great word for a hidden flattener. :^)
 Patrick is right - if the flat is on the rim side, it's a spoke hole (or 
 burr?), not a tire problem.
 In the case of a tire-side puncture, SOMETHING caused it, right? I run my 
 finger carefully inside the tire, trying to avoid puncturing my flesh on 
 the thorn or wire, or getting a paper cut from the edge of the bead. I line 
 up the patched tube to the tire, and search in both matching locations, in 
 case I flipped the tube around during the patch process. i.e.: if the valve 
 stem is 12:00, and the puncture is at 3:00, but I can't find any cause 
 there, I check at 9:00 as well. I bend the tread in hard at that point with 
 my left thumb, and press against it with my right middle finger, trying to 
 force the sticker all the way through the tread. I usually find it. 

 I did just realize that the heavier tires have a thicker tread where 
 thorns and wire bits can hide. That could be the whole of your problem. 
 Thinner threaded tires are easier to find the culprit, so it doesn't stay a 
 gremlin, causing more mischief.

  Philip

 Philip Williamson
 www.biketinker.com



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[RBW] Re: Group response - Stolen Rivendell Posted on Ebay

2012-05-15 Thread newenglandbike
Well I hope the frame ends up back in Taylor's (the rightful owner's) 
possession-definitely positive karma balance in that.


On Monday, May 14, 2012 10:30:54 AM UTC-4, Pammie wrote:

 What a great group - Good luck getting the bike back!! I wouldn't want   
 to own a bike with that history, for one.  Bad karma. 

 My other thought is that if the seller is an actual business - you   
 could bring a suit for conversion or other torts. .  . 

 BTW, I'm still looking for Manny's bike to show up here in Ventura and/ 
 or Los Angeles. . . .I know he's North but you never know . . . 

 All my family's early bikes (1978 Raleigh, 1980 Mongoose, 1987   
 Raleigh, and 1988 Ross) were lost due to theft. . .so I'm sensitive to   
 this topic. 




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[RBW] Re: Grant JUST RIDE at Harris Cyclery June 1

2012-05-15 Thread newenglandbike
Sweet,  I'll be there. Thanks a lot Elton!




On Tuesday, May 15, 2012 5:20:52 PM UTC-4, Elton Pope-Lance wrote:

 We're not wanting to miss the party, so we've got Grant Petersen on the 
 docket for a book signing here at Harris in Friday, June 1, from 5-6pm.  
 We'll follow the store event with a social pace ride for any and all who 
 wish to join.  
 Any bikes are welcome, with extra credit given for steel (and double extra 
 credit for lugs).
 Plenty of books will be on hand for sale.

 Elton Pope-Lance
 Natick, MA


  


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[RBW] Re: Grant JUST RIDE at Harris Cyclery June 1

2012-05-15 Thread newenglandbike
P.S. we should go ride the Weston trails maybe.   :D



On Tuesday, May 15, 2012 5:52:14 PM UTC-4, newenglandbike wrote:

 Sweet,  I'll be there. Thanks a lot Elton!




 On Tuesday, May 15, 2012 5:20:52 PM UTC-4, Elton Pope-Lance wrote:

 We're not wanting to miss the party, so we've got Grant Petersen on the 
 docket for a book signing here at Harris in Friday, June 1, from 5-6pm.  
 We'll follow the store event with a social pace ride for any and all who 
 wish to join.  
 Any bikes are welcome, with extra credit given for steel (and double 
 extra credit for lugs).
 Plenty of books will be on hand for sale.

 Elton Pope-Lance
 Natick, MA


  


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[RBW] Stolen Rivendell on ebay

2012-05-14 Thread newenglandbike
Read the comments for this bike on flickr, it was stolen last year:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rudetay/5389948467/


Yet here it is for sale on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rivendell-Bike-Frame-/261024248321?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item3cc641f201


bastards.

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[RBW] Re: Stolen Rivendell on ebay

2012-05-14 Thread newenglandbike
I sent him a message through flickr-   hopefully he'll get it.  The 
ebay listing says it's in Ohio, but I don't know if the original owner is 
in ohio or not-   any Ohioans here?It would be great if someone could 
pounce on this douchebag.




On Monday, May 14, 2012 6:46:40 AM UTC-4, MichaelH wrote:

 Does anyone have contact info for Taylor Cruse, the rightful owner of 
 this? 

 On Monday, May 14, 2012 4:18:35 AM UTC-4, newenglandbike wrote:

 Read the comments for this bike on flickr, it was stolen last year:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/rudetay/5389948467/


 Yet here it is for sale on ebay:


 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rivendell-Bike-Frame-/261024248321?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item3cc641f201


 bastards.



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[RBW] Re: Stolen Rivendell on ebay

2012-05-14 Thread newenglandbike
Looks like the seller already parted out the SRAM levers that were on it:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261010421506





On Monday, May 14, 2012 7:15:14 AM UTC-4, newenglandbike wrote:

 I sent him a message through flickr-   hopefully he'll get it.  The 
 ebay listing says it's in Ohio, but I don't know if the original owner is 
 in ohio or not-   any Ohioans here?It would be great if someone could 
 pounce on this douchebag.




 On Monday, May 14, 2012 6:46:40 AM UTC-4, MichaelH wrote:

 Does anyone have contact info for Taylor Cruse, the rightful owner of 
 this? 

 On Monday, May 14, 2012 4:18:35 AM UTC-4, newenglandbike wrote:

 Read the comments for this bike on flickr, it was stolen last year:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/rudetay/5389948467/


 Yet here it is for sale on ebay:


 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rivendell-Bike-Frame-/261024248321?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item3cc641f201


 bastards.



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[RBW] Re: Stolen Rivendell on ebay

2012-05-14 Thread newenglandbike
Taylor-good luck getting it back man.   



On Monday, May 14, 2012 8:04:00 AM UTC-4, Taylor wrote:

 Yep, this was mine, I'm in Columbus, Ohio, so I'm pretty close. 

 I very much appreciate the people that notified me about this. Going to 
 try and get it back through official channels before doing anything crazy.

 Taylor

 On Monday, May 14, 2012 4:18:35 AM UTC-4, newenglandbike wrote:

 Read the comments for this bike on flickr, it was stolen last year:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/rudetay/5389948467/


 Yet here it is for sale on ebay:


 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rivendell-Bike-Frame-/261024248321?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item3cc641f201


 bastards.



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[RBW] Re: Stolen Rivendell on ebay

2012-05-14 Thread newenglandbike
On Monday, May 14, 2012 8:04:00 AM UTC-4, Taylor wrote:
Yep, this *IS* mine, I'm in Columbus, Ohio, so I'm pretty close. 

FYP :)



On Monday, May 14, 2012 8:25:06 AM UTC-4, newenglandbike wrote:

 Taylor-good luck getting it back man.   



 On Monday, May 14, 2012 8:04:00 AM UTC-4, Taylor wrote:

 Yep, this was mine, I'm in Columbus, Ohio, so I'm pretty close. 

 I very much appreciate the people that notified me about this. Going to 
 try and get it back through official channels before doing anything crazy.

 Taylor

 On Monday, May 14, 2012 4:18:35 AM UTC-4, newenglandbike wrote:

 Read the comments for this bike on flickr, it was stolen last year:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/rudetay/5389948467/


 Yet here it is for sale on ebay:


 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rivendell-Bike-Frame-/261024248321?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item3cc641f201


 bastards.



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[RBW] Re: tektro cr720 installation advice

2012-05-10 Thread newenglandbike
Brian,
I would slice off a 1x1 square of 400 grit sandpaper, wrap it around the 
canti post and work it around like rolling a cigarette.   It won't take 
much to make the brake fit.

Jim,   The CR720 such an excellent brake-   the opposite of fiddly and 
minimally effective.   How are you setting them up? Deore V-brakes may 
be good but V-brakes are a totally different animal, and not everyone likes 
the feel.

-Matt


On Thursday, May 10, 2012 2:20:01 AM UTC-4, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:

 The Deore v-brakes are so much better in so many ways than ANY canti, 
 especially the fiddly and minimally effective CR720...maybe just take it as 
 a sign from God that you are meant to use v-brakes on this bike?

 On Thursday, May 10, 2012 1:13:04 AM UTC-5, stonehog wrote:

 I'm finding that the CR720 canti brass bushing fits too snugly on the 
 canti posts on my new hunqa.  I can hardly force the brake on the post.  I 
 tried a Deore V-brake and it goes on no problem.   I'm guessing the posts 
 have clear-coat as they look coated shiny.  What is the best way to remove 
 this?  Should I just sand it or is there a good solvent that works for this 
 sort of thing?  I am not seeing this issue on my brief interweb search, so 
 I'm guessing most folks just sand the posts, or I have a strange defective 
 brake set?

 Brian
 Seattle, WA


On Thursday, May 10, 2012 2:20:01 AM UTC-4, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:

 The Deore v-brakes are so much better in so many ways than ANY canti, 
 especially the fiddly and minimally effective CR720...maybe just take it as 
 a sign from God that you are meant to use v-brakes on this bike?

 On Thursday, May 10, 2012 1:13:04 AM UTC-5, stonehog wrote:

 I'm finding that the CR720 canti brass bushing fits too snugly on the 
 canti posts on my new hunqa.  I can hardly force the brake on the post.  I 
 tried a Deore V-brake and it goes on no problem.   I'm guessing the posts 
 have clear-coat as they look coated shiny.  What is the best way to remove 
 this?  Should I just sand it or is there a good solvent that works for this 
 sort of thing?  I am not seeing this issue on my brief interweb search, so 
 I'm guessing most folks just sand the posts, or I have a strange defective 
 brake set?

 Brian
 Seattle, WA



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[RBW] Re: Help me choose my next Riv!

2012-05-10 Thread newenglandbike
This may not be much help, but I think you'd be fine on a SH for touring 
even if it involved lots of offroad places. 700x40mm tires are fine for 
that in my experience, even fully loaded on single-track. The 
hunqapillar with 700x50s would obviously work too. You just have a 
tough decision my friend, and yet you can't go wrong.

*My question is:  how did you send just the fork to waterford if the stem 
is stuck?



On Wednesday, May 9, 2012 10:06:49 PM UTC-4, Tim wrote:

 Ok, please help me out. I had to send my fork to Waterford to have the 
 stuck stem removed and the gravity of not having a second Riv has sunk 
 in. I'm stuck riding a way too small Cannondale or an old 
 Specialized Rockhopper which is, although a decent bike, also too 
 small (and not a Riv.) So, now it's time to choose. Right now I have a 
 63cm AHH with noodle bars and longboard fenders. At least 90% or more 
 of my riding is on the road. I did a supported Southern Tier tour last 
 summer and would like to do at least one, unsupported (though lightly 
 loaded) tour this year and more in the future. I like the occasional 
 fast club ride. In fact, I really, really like them, but I'm not as 
 fast as I used to be (51 with 2 artificial knees.) I bought the old 
 MTB for single track last year and found it to be a blast. 

 So my dilemma: Which should be my next Riv? Hunqa or Rodeo? I will 
 eventually have both but I'll order one of them probably very soon. By 
 the time I get Homer's fork back I'll have been without it for 3 weeks 
 and that, my friends, is unacceptable. I love the fast riding and I 
 actually was planning on the Rodeo when I got the AHH but changed my 
 mind after talking with Keven and Grant. Do you guys think the Rodeo 
 is too close to the Homer and too limited? I guess if I got it I would 
 probably go with racks and more of a touring setup for Homer. Or if I 
 got the Hunqa, maybe I could strip down Homer and use it for the 
 clubbish rides. But where does that leave the occasional single track 
 foray? What say ye all? 

 Thanks in advance.

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[RBW] Re: tektro cr720 installation advice

2012-05-10 Thread newenglandbike
The topic of v-brakes vs. cantis has been rehashed again and again-   it's 
well-trodden territory here and elsewhere on the net and of most folks are 
probably not going to change their once they've settled on one or the 
other.But, among cantimount brakes, the CR720s are among the best 
I've ever tried, easy to set up and quite capable of sending you over the 
bars if that's what you're after.They're relatively inexpensive too.

Matt


On Thursday, May 10, 2012 9:40:41 AM UTC-4, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
wrote:

 The CR720 is now standard issue on Cross-Checks and LHTs, which are the 
 two models we sell most at my shop. I've come to dislike cantilevers in 
 general, but I don't understand the appeal of this model in particular. I 
 doubt I'm making any setup mistakes, as I've been setting them up and 
 riding them for years, and I dislike them equally on bikes set up by 
 others. I find them fiddly and underpowered. Here's why, maybe. 

 I guess one person's grabby, unmodulated brake is another's significant 
 technological improvement in braking. When I switched over from Paul cantis 
 to my current cheapish Tektro v-brakes on my touring bike, on the first 
 ride, I had to make a semi-emergency stop when a car pulled out in front of 
 me too close for comfort. I pulled the brakes with all my ingrained 
 cantilever king-fu grip, and was startled by how fast I stopped. So I can 
 see how a person who's accustomed to cantis and, perhaps, read enough Jan 
 Heine and other conventional wisdom that says v-brakes aren't adequately 
 modulated, would come to the conclusion that v-brakes aren't adequately 
 modulated based on such an experience. But if you stick it out with 
 v-brakes and make a few good stops, your hand recalibrates, and modulation 
 is just fine, ultimate oh sh!+! stopping power is greatly improved, and 
 cantis start to feel like something from the rod-brake era. Plus v-brakes 
 are cheap and easy to set up - the number of forum posts here pertaining to 
 v-brake setup issues here is nil, while canti setup discussions are a near 
 weekly occurrence. 

 IME, some men and all but the burliest women are unsatisfied with the 
 braking power of a new, say, Surly LHT with stock cantilever brakes. Now 
 that Tektro makes long pull aero levers, and v-brakes are excellent 
 even/especially at the cheap level, it's a $60 upcharge to go to v-brakes 
 on these bikes. We do the swap more often than not...which means that I 
 have a bunch of cr720 brakes to sell at swap meets someday!

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[RBW] Re: What is the deal with the double top tubes?

2012-05-09 Thread newenglandbike
The double top-tube thing has been available on Rivendells for a long time 
I think, going way back to larger-sized customs, but first appearing on 
standard models with the AHH in larger sizes (67cm and up) if I'm not 
mistaken. Then around 2009 the Bombadil came standard with it, to 
're-triangulate' the frame due to the expanded geometry and tall head 
tube.  



On Wednesday, May 9, 2012 10:35:33 AM UTC-4, Kayakguy wrote:

 I haven't been to the Rivendell site for awhile and I see all these 
 double tubes. I looked for a post on here or on the site but found 
 nothing. 

 Is this standard now? I see pictures of the same model with double and 
 single tubes. 

 Thanks for filling me in.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Slipping QR in horizontal drop out help

2012-05-07 Thread newenglandbike
I bet the steel QR solves the problem... aluminum QR nuts are suspect for 
slippage.In addition to going to steel, maybe take it in to a shop and 
have them align the dropouts or borrow a Park FFG-2 alignment tool-  if 
they are skewed a bit it certainly isn't helping the situation.Anyway I 
hope you figure it out.


Matt



On Sunday, May 6, 2012 10:18:53 PM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Yes, definitely Al. I put on the new end (still Al) and same 
 problemhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/7150628661/in/photostream/.
  
 Went back and dug out the Mavic all-steel 
 QRshttp://www.flickr.com/photos/cyclotourist/7150710351/in/photostreamI 
 used to have on there and have replaced them, but not put any miles on it 
 yet. I took those off a while ago as I never liked the cam action on them 
 compared to Shimano. They never seemed to lock down like Shimanos do, so 
 thought I was moving in the right direction. Perhaps not. I'm not sure my 
 troubles started with the change as it was several years ago, but I don't 
 remember a problem w/ the old Mavics.

 Thanks again for the input on this! I hope to soon report back with 
 positive news for everyone!

 On Sun, May 6, 2012 at 4:17 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 I am pretty sure it's the aluminum contact surfaces -- modern skewers
 are meant, it seems, for vertical dropouts only. I remember tightening
 an allen slow release on one of my fixies until the (steel) skewer
 snapped -- couldn't get the aluminum ends to grip tightly enough.

 Come to think of it, I've got a 5-6 lb bag of old, old-school,
 all-steel skewers and if you (the original complainant) want one, just
 LMK. I think I've got a 130 or so and possibly even a 135 or two. None
 are very pretty (except the NOS Zeus front which ain't leaving).

 Note: will trade skewer/s for single old Campy Record dustcap or
 pair/sof nice, shiny metal ones. (I have one Campy already -- thanks,
 Eric.)

 On Sun, May 6, 2012 at 4:29 PM, Kelly tkslee...@gmail.com wrote:
  My wife's fuji tour bike had this problem.  Went from aluminum to steel 
 skews, knurled.  This fixed the problem for us.
 
  Kelly
 
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 --

 -
 Patrick Moore, Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact Patrick Moore, ACRW
 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html
 -

 A billion stars go spinning through the night
 Blazing high above your head;
 But in you is the Presence that will be
 When all the stars are dead.

 Rainer Maria Rilke, Buddha in Glory

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 -- 
 Cheers,
 David
 Redlands, CA

 **
 “I believe in an America where millions of Americans believe in an America 
 that’s the America millions of Americans believe in. That’s the America I 
 love.”



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[RBW] Re: Do not attempt this at home

2012-05-06 Thread newenglandbike
Wow that's serious clearance.That setup looks awesome.  Regarding 
streetable tires fatter than hetres, I highly recommend the schwalbe 
'fatty' tires that Rivendell sells.. great tires.

On Sunday, May 6, 2012 7:55:06 PM UTC-4, Leslie wrote:

 Disclaimer: I realize, running knobby, lugged tires under fitted fenders 
 can be hazardous, as a twig could get picked up and pulled in and jam.  Do 
 not do as I do; I was curious if it was even possible to do this, so I 
 tried...

 56cm  Bomba,  650b; Pacenti NeoMoto 2.3 tires, and P65 SKS/ESGE fenders. 
  Plenty of room, more than my Ram has w/32's under aluminum 45 fenders...


 http://www.flickr.com/photos/leslie_bright/7150235995/in/pool-1302140@N21/lightbox/

 I intend to not run fenders w/ lugged tires when I need them; but I'm 
 looking for fatter 650b tires, fatter than Hetres, with a streetable tread, 
 and am making sure that these are going to fit about any tire I can find...

 -L



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[RBW] Re: Wide profile canti brake recs

2012-05-05 Thread newenglandbike
In my experience, brake squeal can be tuned out with slight adjustments to 
the angle of the pads.  it may take a few tries but usually works.If 
that doesn't work I'll switch to different pads, but usually it does.


On Saturday, May 5, 2012 2:13:35 PM UTC-4, Tom Harrop wrote:

 So what's the thinking on the cause of brake chatter? I have CR720s with 
 Kool Stop dual compound my 68 cm Bombadil and I get some pretty ferocious 
 chatter, particularly when it's wet. When the front brake doesn't chatter, 
 it squeals!

 Is it because of the super-long fork blades? Or have I done something 
 wrong setting them up?


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[RBW] Re: Wide profile canti brake recs

2012-05-04 Thread newenglandbike
I tried shimano 550s and was disappointed, I'll never go back to 
low-profile brakes. I really dig my Tektro CR720's.In fact, I use 
them on three different bikes, two of them with Nitto mini-fronts.   I have 
never had Paul brakes, but a friend of mine has them and likes them.I 
don't think I'll ever get them though, since I have no reason to.The 
CR720s are fantastic brakes.   Here's a pic of them on my quickbeam:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/43029278@N07/4136473729/in/set-72157622885539082

Shimano MC70 was also a pretty decent brake.

-Matt


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[RBW] Re: Was your RIV sizing right on?

2012-05-03 Thread newenglandbike
I would follow Rivs advice.   FWIW I think top-tube crotch clearance fears 
are unfounded.I know many disagree.I ride bikes with ~2cm top-tube 
standover clearance in the woods and never have a problem even with 
frequent foot-downs or sudden dismounts.   Most of my riding growing up was 
BMX, and other than that kind of riding which is totally different, I've 
never had both my feet blow off the pedals and my butt fall off the saddle 
all at the same time, nailing my crotch-but if that were to happen, I'd 
rather a shorter drop to the top tube than a longer one wherein gravity has 
more time to do its acceleration thing.   Also, sounds stupid but I like 
resting my leg on the top-tube when stopped, and when riding bikes with 
compact/expanding geometry I kind of miss that. 6', ~89cm pbh, and have 
always ridden 62-64cm frames.  Also have a 65cm touring/workhorse rig that 
is amazing for long distances.

-Matt

On Wednesday, May 2, 2012 2:28:55 AM UTC-4, lungimsam wrote:

 Hello All, 

 When you got your Riv's, how was their sizing recommendation for you? 

 I am planning on getting a RIV sometime, and was wondering if I should 
 go by what they recommend (I hear usually larger), or go with my gut 
 (smaller). 

 What's your advice?

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[RBW] Re: Question about White Ind Dos Freewheel

2012-05-01 Thread newenglandbike
I shift my quickbeam quite a bit, which I guess seems to be unusual among 
QB/SO owners when these threads come up, but I'm not really sure why.  
I have a White 16/19 fw, a 22t ACS on the other side, and the stock QB 
crank with 40/32 rings.

For riding more than 15 miles, I use 40/16, and this is mainly for going to 
work which is 15 or 17 miles if I go the longer way.   For the riding in 
the city of boston, or with my significant other, I'll switch to 40/19, 
which takes about 5 seconds.Sometimes also use that for long rides too 
when I'm not in a hurry. When we go in the woods, which we do often 
thankfully, I flip the rear wheel and ride 40/22 to get to the trails (20 
seconds), then do another 5-second change to 32/22 at the trailhead if it's 
a hilly, rocky, root-heavy trail, which in New England they generally are.

I really enjoy the concept of the QB and feel that it works great exactly 
as the ad copy originally described-   switching gears now and then, but 
benefiting from the simpleness, quietness, and one-speedness of a single 
speed most of the time.   I have derailleured bicycles too, but riding a QB 
is sufficiently different and pleasant, in additional ways that I can't 
easily explain, to justify its design.

-Matt



On Monday, April 30, 2012 8:55:52 PM UTC-4, EricP wrote:

 For the folks that have one of these on their Quickbeam or SimpleOne - do 
 you actually swap gears that much?  Am thinking of a 17/19 for my 
 SimpleOne.  Besides worrying about clearance issues am just wondering if it 
 would get used enough to justify the price.  There are not a lot of long 
 climbs in the Twin Cities, but in other parts of the state, a 2 mile or 
 more climb is not unheard of.  Also thinking it might be good for a bail 
 out on a windy day.  Or really steep shorter hills.  As my SimpleOne has 
 metal fenders, this seems a more appropriate choice that flip/flop 
 freewheels.
  
 Have also considered a Dingle fixed cog setup.  Not willing to try that 
 right now.  The idea of superfast spinning on downhills just doesn't appeal.
  
 Thanks in advance for any opinions.
  
 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN


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[RBW] Re: Question about White Ind Dos Freewheel

2012-05-01 Thread newenglandbike
P.S. for shifting gears when there isn't a stick laying around-  which 
there is most of the time-I have used the following at various times:

5mm allen key from saddlebag pocket, 90% of time
pocket knife, left the allen key on workbench
Kryptonite lock key, didn't have my knife
Pencil

I find that the trick when flipping the rear wheel is to grab it by the 
tire with your fingertips rather than grabbing the rim, to avoid getting 
brake/road grime all over your hand.   But yeah, your fingers get a little 
dirt on them when flipping the wheel.I wipe them off on the grass or my 
pantleg.For flipping the bike over to do this with a basket on it, 
that's where bungee nets come in.



On Monday, April 30, 2012 8:55:52 PM UTC-4, EricP wrote:

 For the folks that have one of these on their Quickbeam or SimpleOne - do 
 you actually swap gears that much?  Am thinking of a 17/19 for my 
 SimpleOne.  Besides worrying about clearance issues am just wondering if it 
 would get used enough to justify the price.  There are not a lot of long 
 climbs in the Twin Cities, but in other parts of the state, a 2 mile or 
 more climb is not unheard of.  Also thinking it might be good for a bail 
 out on a windy day.  Or really steep shorter hills.  As my SimpleOne has 
 metal fenders, this seems a more appropriate choice that flip/flop 
 freewheels.
  
 Have also considered a Dingle fixed cog setup.  Not willing to try that 
 right now.  The idea of superfast spinning on downhills just doesn't appeal.
  
 Thanks in advance for any opinions.
  
 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN



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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 59cm Joe/Joe Longlow revised

2012-04-27 Thread newenglandbike
There is also a Riv blog post about the Hilsen tubeset here:

http://rivbike.tumblr.com/post/3218082349/the-t-question-long-post-dry-reading

The Homer is made with these tubes, if made in Wisconsin:

Seat tube: True Temper Verus heat-treated CrMo. HT CrMo generally ends up 
with a tensile strength of at least 140,000 psi, so I’m guessing it does 
too, but if you must know, look it up online. The bike would be no worse if 
the seat tube metal had an ultimate tensile strength (UTS) of 100,000 psi. 
That’s more than strong enough, but if a truly crummier frame somewhere had 
the 140,000 psi metal, we’d look bad, and would look defensive defending 
the 100,000 psi tube, which is nuts. 
True Temper makes an even stronger tube, OX Platinum, which does’t work 
well for seat tubes, because heating hardens it to the point where it’s too 
hard to ream, so the seat post might not fit well.

DOWNtube and TOP TUBE: Here we do use OX Plat, with a UTS of about 200,000 
psi. At this point it’s sort of like putting a razor’s edge or super steel 
on a butter knife and calling it better for it. But in the only slightly 
weird world of marketing fancy bikes, when bad builders can buy the same 
tubing and brag about it, it makes nonsense to use something more 
realistically appropriate. 

The head tube is OX plat, too. With our lugs, with their reinforced head 
tube rings that totally forever absolutely will never ovalize, there’s no 
advantage to it, but we got it, anyway. 




On Thursday, April 26, 2012 7:43:41 PM UTC-4, Fullylugged wrote:

 At times RBW gives tube specs but usially not.  Ram specs are published. 
 You can search this list archives because i posted themwithin the last 
 year.  Or emsil me and ill send yhem from a device i can actually type 
 on.

 Sent from my Kindle Fire


 --
 *From:* Ryan Ray ryanr...@gmail.com
 *Sent:* Thu Apr 26 16:18:48 CDT 2012
 *To:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 *Subject:* [RBW] Re: FS: 59cm Joe/Joe Longlow revised
  
 How do you know the tubes? Was there a time when Riv told you what tubes 
 they used? 

 Iv'e been trying to find out the tubes in Rambs.

 Thanks,
 Ryan





 On Thursday, April 26, 2012 1:55:43 PM UTC-7, SISDDWG wrote:

 Frame, fork, and headset only 

 Frame: 
  Long-low road 
  Standard 
  Size: 59cm measured ctt, tt has 1 degree upslope 

 Braze-ons: 
  Shifter bosses 
  Cantilever bosses 
  Rear rack mounts 

 Installed Parts: 
  Tange Rollerball headset 26.4 x 30.2 

 Paint: 
  JB Green 
  Painted head tube 
  Window fill 

 Specs: 
  Top Tube: Reynolds 725 28.6 x 858 (AG206) 
  Head Tube: Reynolds 531 31.7 x 0.9 
  Fork Blades: Reynolds 531 Rnd 24OD x 0.55 x 385 
  Down Tube: Tange Prestige 28.6 9-6-9 
  Seat Stay: Vitus 16OD x 0.8 x 560 
  Seat Tube: Vitus 28.6 976 (GTI) 
  Chain Stay: Reynolds 725 22.2 ROR 8-6 (FX2500) 

 NEVER crashed. No dents. Usual unobtrusive paint chips. 

 Shipping within continental U.S.A. only. Buyer pays actual USPS cost. 

 Price: $850 plus shipping cost via Paypal or cash if local pick up. 


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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: 59cm Joe/Joe Longlow revised

2012-04-27 Thread newenglandbike
Continued.

The chainstays are OX PLAT, with the odd wall thickness of 0.76mm. Normal 
would be 0.7 to 0.9, with 0.8 being really common, but these are 0.76. Odd, 
but fine. They’re good chainstays.

The seat stays are Reynolds double-tapered HT CrMo (725). TruTemp doesn’t 
make double-tapered seat stays, and the Hilsen doesn’t NEED them, but I 
like them and the Hilsen is our pride and joy, so we get them from Reynolds.

The fork blades are Reynolds, too. We like this blade better than any 
other. It’s not heat-treated. I don’t like heat-treated fork blades, 
because I think in a front-end crash, the forks should bend before the 
downtube does. Sometimes both go—-you never can tell—but when you’ve got an 
OX Plat down tube, a non-heat treated fork makes sense.

All of our lugs and bb shells and fork crowns and most of our dropouts are 
our own, meaning made just for us and of our design. They are as good as 
lugs can be, I think, but they can’t make a badly designed or poorly brazed 
frame good. Since our frames are well-designed (my opinion) and brazed, it 
makes sense to use really find fittings, and that’s why we do it.

On Friday, April 27, 2012 4:29:55 AM UTC-4, newenglandbike wrote:

 There is also a Riv blog post about the Hilsen tubeset here:


 http://rivbike.tumblr.com/post/3218082349/the-t-question-long-post-dry-reading

 The Homer is made with these tubes, if made in Wisconsin:

 Seat tube: True Temper Verus heat-treated CrMo. HT CrMo generally ends up 
 with a tensile strength of at least 140,000 psi, so I’m guessing it does 
 too, but if you must know, look it up online. The bike would be no worse if 
 the seat tube metal had an ultimate tensile strength (UTS) of 100,000 psi. 
 That’s more than strong enough, but if a truly crummier frame somewhere had 
 the 140,000 psi metal, we’d look bad, and would look defensive defending 
 the 100,000 psi tube, which is nuts. 
 True Temper makes an even stronger tube, OX Platinum, which does’t work 
 well for seat tubes, because heating hardens it to the point where it’s too 
 hard to ream, so the seat post might not fit well.

 DOWNtube and TOP TUBE: Here we do use OX Plat, with a UTS of about 200,000 
 psi. At this point it’s sort of like putting a razor’s edge or super steel 
 on a butter knife and calling it better for it. But in the only slightly 
 weird world of marketing fancy bikes, when bad builders can buy the same 
 tubing and brag about it, it makes nonsense to use something more 
 realistically appropriate. 

 The head tube is OX plat, too. With our lugs, with their reinforced head 
 tube rings that totally forever absolutely will never ovalize, there’s no 
 advantage to it, but we got it, anyway. 




 On Thursday, April 26, 2012 7:43:41 PM UTC-4, Fullylugged wrote:

 At times RBW gives tube specs but usially not.  Ram specs are published. 
 You can search this list archives because i posted themwithin the last 
 year.  Or emsil me and ill send yhem from a device i can actually type 
 on.

 Sent from my Kindle Fire


 --
 *From:* Ryan Ray ryanr...@gmail.com
 *Sent:* Thu Apr 26 16:18:48 CDT 2012
 *To:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 *Subject:* [RBW] Re: FS: 59cm Joe/Joe Longlow revised
  
 How do you know the tubes? Was there a time when Riv told you what tubes 
 they used? 

 Iv'e been trying to find out the tubes in Rambs.

 Thanks,
 Ryan





 On Thursday, April 26, 2012 1:55:43 PM UTC-7, SISDDWG wrote:

 Frame, fork, and headset only 

 Frame: 
  Long-low road 
  Standard 
  Size: 59cm measured ctt, tt has 1 degree upslope 

 Braze-ons: 
  Shifter bosses 
  Cantilever bosses 
  Rear rack mounts 

 Installed Parts: 
  Tange Rollerball headset 26.4 x 30.2 

 Paint: 
  JB Green 
  Painted head tube 
  Window fill 

 Specs: 
  Top Tube: Reynolds 725 28.6 x 858 (AG206) 
  Head Tube: Reynolds 531 31.7 x 0.9 
  Fork Blades: Reynolds 531 Rnd 24OD x 0.55 x 385 
  Down Tube: Tange Prestige 28.6 9-6-9 
  Seat Stay: Vitus 16OD x 0.8 x 560 
  Seat Tube: Vitus 28.6 976 (GTI) 
  Chain Stay: Reynolds 725 22.2 ROR 8-6 (FX2500) 

 NEVER crashed. No dents. Usual unobtrusive paint chips. 

 Shipping within continental U.S.A. only. Buyer pays actual USPS cost. 

 Price: $850 plus shipping cost via Paypal or cash if local pick up. 


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[RBW] Re: Front Rack for Touring With Atlantis

2012-04-18 Thread newenglandbike
I used the nitto mini front and wald basket, with a Tubus Tara lowrider on 
a 6K tour once.I would use the exact same setup if I did it again.   
The mini-front with wald basket and bungee is incredibly robust, flexible, 
and handy. Of course the Tubus low rider's reputation speaks for itself 
I think.   However, I am sure I could have used a Nitto Big Front rack with 
wald basket and get similar performance. 

Good luck on your tour :D

Matt


On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:34:19 PM UTC-4, Darin G. wrote:

 My Atlantis is built up and riding (gratuitous plug for Saturday Cycles in 
 SLC).  An awesome dreadnaught of a bicycle.  I'm running a Nitto Mini-Front 
 with a Berthoud bag and decaleur on the front.  I'm planning a tour and 
 wondering what y'all use for a front touring rack.  I'm thinking of pulling 
 the Mini off and going with the Nitto Big Front.  Seems the Berthoud bag 
 would rest on it in fine, especially with the decaleur, and then I could 
 hang the front panniers on as well.  But,...wondering if there is some 
 other option where I could keep the Mini-Front and use some kind of clamp 
 on low-rider (Tubus?  Bruce Gordon?).  Is there a rack that would actually 
 use the fork braze ons other than the Nitto?  Suggestions with illustrative 
 photos appreciated.

 D.G.


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[RBW] Re: pre-ordered a blue Sam Hillborne a few minutes ago

2012-04-18 Thread newenglandbike
I've been using the quickbeam crank on my bombadil for years, and have been 
slowly updating my other bikes with the same. The big ring on a triple 
has only ever been a dysfunctional, pant-leg eating guard for me 
anyway. Might as well have a real guard there :)

Matt


On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:27:24 PM UTC-4, Scot Brooks wrote:

 Congratulations! I was in the same situation as you when I ordered my Sam. 
 Had a 14 year old Bontrager Privateer Comp that had been through many 
 reincarnations and it was time to get something new and nice. I think 
 you're going to look back at this as one of the best and most overdue 
 decisions you ever made. 

 In answer your question about the crankset; I went with the triple because 
 they accidentally shipped it to me (I ordered the double with the guard). 
 After riding it for awhile, I removed the big ring in favor of the guard 
 and I've never looked back. I still wish I got the double to begin with 
 because the gearing would be just a bit more useful. In my case, I bought 
 the 12-36 cassette from Riv and I never quite get to low gear even living 
 in hilly Seattle. The cassette would make more sense with the 42/30 double 
 or whatever it is, for me at least. 

 As for the big Marathons, you can go wicked big if you want. I got some 
 700x47 ones to try on my Sam and they fit no sweat, even (kinda sorta) with 
 fenders. I usually just ride the 38 version though. 


On Tuesday, April 17, 2012 10:27:24 PM UTC-4, Scot Brooks wrote:

 Congratulations! I was in the same situation as you when I ordered my Sam. 
 Had a 14 year old Bontrager Privateer Comp that had been through many 
 reincarnations and it was time to get something new and nice. I think 
 you're going to look back at this as one of the best and most overdue 
 decisions you ever made. 

 In answer your question about the crankset; I went with the triple because 
 they accidentally shipped it to me (I ordered the double with the guard). 
 After riding it for awhile, I removed the big ring in favor of the guard 
 and I've never looked back. I still wish I got the double to begin with 
 because the gearing would be just a bit more useful. In my case, I bought 
 the 12-36 cassette from Riv and I never quite get to low gear even living 
 in hilly Seattle. The cassette would make more sense with the 42/30 double 
 or whatever it is, for me at least. 

 As for the big Marathons, you can go wicked big if you want. I got some 
 700x47 ones to try on my Sam and they fit no sweat, even (kinda sorta) with 
 fenders. I usually just ride the 38 version though. 


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[RBW] Re: Questions on Carradice Barley

2012-04-18 Thread newenglandbike
Another vote for the barley being a tad small.Good bag, but other than 
tools/spare tube and a sweater you're not fitting much in there. For 
Carradice, my faves are the camper and camper longflap.BUT you should 
take a long hard look at a Saddlesack Medium or Large.   Those bags 
combined with a nitto top rack are ridiculously useful and well designed.

-Matt

On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 6:44:58 AM UTC-4, doc wrote:

 I found the Barley too small for day rides and went with the Pendle. 
 For both bags I inserted hard plastic backing to help them maintain 
 their shape (cut from cat litter tubs).  For both sprung and unsprung 
 saddles, a Midlands bag support at $7.00 works great and keeps them 
 from swaying, plus prevents them rubbing up against the backs of my 
 thighs. 

 I love the looks of the Carradice, but I wish they had different 
 fasteners than the traditional buckles.  They can be cumbersome, 
 especially in winter when wearing a pair of gloves. 

 On Apr 17, 11:59 pm, charlie cl_v...@hotmail.com wrote: 
  Thought of Barley until I purchased a Nelson Longflap...and glad I 
  did. The Barley would be too small except in ideal weather (for me) In 
  the summer I use a Banana bag for tools,tube, wallet and phone but in 
  the rainy Northwest I need capacity for rain gear and a change of 
  clothing etc. for the other nine months of the year. I imagine a 
  Barley would be a nice bag to leave on all year with perhaps another 
  (maybe a front bag) to supplement. I rack my Nelson now and am in the 
  process of building a spartan rack / bag support / light mount. This 
  rack will be made with the idea of adding and extension piece for a 
  full rack when I want to camp or whatever. Still working on the 
  design...with bags more is better when you actually want to carry 
  stuff. When you go big you find stuff to carry that you might actually 
  need or want to make cycling more enjoyable and less of a stranded in 
  the middle of nowhere without what you need athletic event.   ; ) 
  
  On Apr 17, 2:36 pm, Peter M uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote: 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
   Thinking of getting a Carradice Barley saddlebag but wanted to ask if 
   anyone here is running one currently and how they like it. Also do you 
   need a bag support with this thing like the now discontinued Hupe, and 
   will it work with a sprung Brooks like the B72? Thanks to any help 
   anyone can offer.

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[RBW] Re: pre-ordered a blue Sam Hillborne a few minutes ago

2012-04-18 Thread newenglandbike
Hi Mike,

I just use a triple derailleur, and have adjusted the screws so that it 
doesn't shift past the middle ring. For chain length I use the middle 
ring and largest rear cog +2 links, and that seems to work OK. The 
stock 40/32 of the QB crank may not give you the full range you want but it 
is not awful.When it came time for new rings I went with a 28t small 
ring.   If running 700c wheels with fat tires you may not even need 40t on 
the 'big' (middle) ring and could go to a 36/26 or something.Anyway 
it's great to hop on the bike and not worry about tying up your pant leg 
all the time.The guard also slides right over small fallen trees.

-Matt.


On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 9:36:41 AM UTC-4, Mike wrote:


 On Apr 18, 12:14 am, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote: 
  I've been using the quickbeam crank on my bombadil for years, and have 
 been 
  slowly updating my other bikes with the same. The big ring on a 
 triple 
  has only ever been a dysfunctional, pant-leg eating guard for me 
  anyway. Might as well have a real guard there :) 
  
  Matt 


 More and more this set-up is making sense to me. I have a pair of VO 
 50.4 BCD cranks on my rando bike and while I love the 46/30 rings I 
 just don't like the cranks. Set-up is a bit tricky as it's much easier 
 to have issues with chainline and the crank arms hitting the chain due 
 to the design. Why they didn't update the design a bit, like Rene 
 Herse did, rather than just make a straight copy of the TA crank is 
 beyond me. Also, I don't know that I'm a van of the super low q- 
 factor. 

 I sold my QB a while back but kept the cranks. I may use them on my 
 Hilsen with an 8-spd 11-32 cassette. Two questions: 

 1) What derailer do I use? Double? Triple? 

 2) Are there any issues I need to be aware of when using the big 
 (middle) ring and the lowest or highest gear? 

 I guess I have a third question, how do I determine chain length, just 
 wrap the chain around the big (middle) ring and lowest gear? 

 Thanks! 

 --mike 



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[RBW] Re: pre-ordered a blue Sam Hillborne a few minutes ago

2012-04-18 Thread newenglandbike
PS I haven't had any problems using the big (middle) ring across all the 
cogs, but tend to prefer shifting down to the small ring when on the 
biggest 2 cogs.


On Wednesday, April 18, 2012 9:36:41 AM UTC-4, Mike wrote:


 On Apr 18, 12:14 am, newenglandbike matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote: 
  I've been using the quickbeam crank on my bombadil for years, and have 
 been 
  slowly updating my other bikes with the same. The big ring on a 
 triple 
  has only ever been a dysfunctional, pant-leg eating guard for me 
  anyway. Might as well have a real guard there :) 
  
  Matt 


 More and more this set-up is making sense to me. I have a pair of VO 
 50.4 BCD cranks on my rando bike and while I love the 46/30 rings I 
 just don't like the cranks. Set-up is a bit tricky as it's much easier 
 to have issues with chainline and the crank arms hitting the chain due 
 to the design. Why they didn't update the design a bit, like Rene 
 Herse did, rather than just make a straight copy of the TA crank is 
 beyond me. Also, I don't know that I'm a van of the super low q- 
 factor. 

 I sold my QB a while back but kept the cranks. I may use them on my 
 Hilsen with an 8-spd 11-32 cassette. Two questions: 

 1) What derailer do I use? Double? Triple? 

 2) Are there any issues I need to be aware of when using the big 
 (middle) ring and the lowest or highest gear? 

 I guess I have a third question, how do I determine chain length, just 
 wrap the chain around the big (middle) ring and lowest gear? 

 Thanks! 

 --mike 



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[RBW] Re: 64cm Orange Quickbeam FS in LA

2012-04-16 Thread newenglandbike
Just had a nice ride in the Chestnut Hill woods on my 64cm orange beam.
I couldn't imagine getting bored of it.


On Monday, April 16, 2012 6:44:33 PM UTC-4, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 FYI tall people: 
 http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lac/bik/2961803201.htmlDon't know anything 
 about it, no affiliation, etc, etc. 


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[RBW] Re: New chain skipping

2012-04-15 Thread newenglandbike
Hi Pam,

I'd maybe take a look at your cogs and chainrings (if you haven't replaced 
those too), and make sure that the teeth aren't too worn.You'll know if 
the teeth end in sharp points like a shark fin. 

Matt   



On Sunday, April 15, 2012 8:31:56 PM UTC-4, pam wrote:

 I just got a new chain after LBS told me the old one was worn out. 
 The new one occasionally skips.  The old one never did.  What's the 
 problem? 


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[RBW] Re: SimpleOne

2012-04-11 Thread newenglandbike
Now and then on hills I'll just get off and walk, which I like doing 
actually, it is relaxing.Not that the ride isn't-   it is relaxing 
too.


On Tuesday, April 10, 2012 9:03:05 PM UTC-4, EricP wrote:

 Was that way myself until a about a year ago.  Over the past couple years 
 have been on rides with folks riding single speed (or fixed gear) bikes and 
 was jealous, for lack of a better term.  Especially on the SoCal Riv Ride 
 back in 2009.  Was really yearning for a Quickbeam by the end of the ride.  
 Decided after getting a Cross Check last year to give it a try. Had Jim 
 Thill build a wheel and put it on the bike.  And took it for a ride.  Then 
 another.  Then another.  I liked it.  A lot.  

 There are some limitations with my single speed riding - climbing is 
 slower and will often look for alternate route rather than heading for 
 steep hills.  Then again can probably get around 90 percent of the Twin 
 Cities metro area without having to do an ugly (to me) climb.  And climbing 
 even out of my side street in winter with studded tires was more chore than 
 I'd like.  But overall, it's a fun alternative to shifting.
  
 Plus, a single speed is a great excuse why I can't keep up with faster 
 riders.  Which is just about every body else out there.
  
 Eric Platt
 (Counting down the days until next Monday)

 On Tuesday, April 10, 2012 12:32:22 PM UTC-5, Way Rebb wrote:

 The last single speed I had was as a kid and his StingRay.  Getting a 
 bike with gears was a revelation. I remember actually riding, not 
 pushing the bike, up 73rd in Oakland with a big smile on my face.  I 
 doubt, in fact I know, I'd never get a single speed. I can get the 
 same effect by not changing gears for a while.  Maybe if it had all 
 the braze ons for a Rohloff or something like that.  Some people seem 
 to like them, just not for me. 

 On Apr 9, 7:11 pm, ted ted.ke...@comcast.net wrote: 
  Jim writes: People think single-speed and in the same thought they 
  
  think beater or winter bike or bar bike or whatever other 
  utilitarian, un-romantic category applies. 
  
  I figure Jim's dealt with way more folks buying bikes than I have so I 
  wouldn't take issue with him about what people in the aggregate 
  think. But I sure don't think that way. When I got my first ss/fixed 
  bike (after grade school that is), I was concerned about winter in the 
  midwest. I didn't want rear derailers freezing up packed full of 
  slush. I wanted fenders so I wouldn't get covered with slush. I 
  thought the 1/8th inch chain would lower the loads and wear better. 
  But I wasn't particularly thinking cheep. I got campi track hubs, 
  moderate weight tubular rims, suntour superbe cranks, lyotard platform 
  pedals (ok they weren't expensive but they were nice), and chinelli 
  bar and stem. If I could have afforded a better frame I think I would 
  have. 
  
  I understand fear of theft driving a desire for cheep. But not fear of 
  the elements. I have never hesitated to take a nice bike out into the 
  rain or snow because I was afraid it would get wrecked. I also see no 
  conflict between utilitarian and aesthetics/elegance/beauty etc. Have 
  you ever used snap-on tools? 
  
  Clearly not enough people will pay 1k for a dedicated SS frame and 
  fork to support the SO/QB in the marketplace. I just find it odd if 
  thats not because almost nobody (outside of hipsterdom which, as noted 
  previously, has a different aesthetic) really knows they like riding 
  em. Of course I think lots of things are odd. 
  
  On Apr 9, 3:16 am, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com 
  wrote: 
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
   Also, in reference to Ted's comment about the Cross-check being more 
 an analog to the Hillborne than to the SO: 
  
   That's definitely true if you're talking about the Cross-check as a 
 geared bike. In that case, the two bikes have a lot of similarities, except 
 one looks fancier and costs $600 more (for the frameset only). The price 
 difference is more profound if you compare the CC stock complete bike to a 
 similarly equipped Hillborne, which is not available as a mass-market 
 complete bike. But lots of people, for various reasons, think the price 
 difference on the Riv is plenty acceptable. Lots of people are willing to 
 shell out for a special bike. Cool. 
  
   But single-speeds are different. People think single-speed and in 
 the same thought they think beater or winter bike or bar bike or 
 whatever other utilitarian, un-romantic category applies. In that case, you 
 look at that $600 price difference and you think about rust and dents, and 
 that Surly, what it lacks in panache, it makes up in ruggedness and, 
 ultimately, in the worst case scenario, replaceability. In the case of 
 single-speeds, the preciousness that many of us assign to Rivendell 
 bicycles is a drawback. And that's why I say more mundane frames like the 
 CC make it hard to sell the QB/SO.



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[RBW] Re: Specialized Sequoia

2012-04-11 Thread newenglandbike
I have an '83 sequoia that I stumbled upon in brand new condition at Bikes 
Not Bombs in Jamaica Plain a few years ago, and it gets ridden quite a 
bit.Not quite Rivendell geometry with it's steep ST angle-but it is 
a great bike, worth it if you can find one.I love mine-   it handles 
great, is fairly light yet sturdy, and it fits 28's with fenders no problem.

Here's a shot from before I got fenders for it:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/43029278@N07/5764577826/




On Wednesday, April 11, 2012 11:17:31 AM UTC-4, franklyn wrote:

 Brian,

 I have one that I got last year. I replaced a Riv Bleriot with it. Here 
 are some pictures:

 http://www.flickr.com/photos/franklyn/sets/72157627342403464/

 Mine is a 58cm. I really like these miyata-built sequoia. They are supple 
 and responsible, and the geometry is pretty close to a Riv Romulus or 
 Bleriot. I did swap out the fork to one with lower trail, as all my other 
 bikes have low-trail forks and I preferred the handling now. 

 However, even with the stock fork, it was a fun bike to ride. I got the 
 frameset for $280--repainted. If the bike is really near new, and you 
 will not be swapping out many parts, then $600 is pretty good. If you plan 
 on making lots of changes to the bike, then it might not be as economical 
 for you.

 Franklyn

 On Wednesday, April 11, 2012 6:37:52 AM UTC-7, Brian Campbell wrote:

 I have an opportunnity to buy a 60cm Specialized Sequoia ($650) in almost 
 new condition. My interweb research has let me know that these bikes have a 
 dedicated following. I was wondering if anyone here has one and could 
 possibly tell me their thoughts about the bike and also, if the price is in 
 the ball park?



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[RBW] Re: Nitto R-14 top rack on a Roadeo: Sacrilege?

2012-04-10 Thread newenglandbike
I don't have a Roadeo so take this with grain of salt, but I bet it would 
be fine. The R-14 rack is not typical, being unusually well made, 
lightweight and stiff.  That being said, you could also look into 
mounting the smaller Mark's rack-  although they are normally shown mounted 
to the fork, they can also be mounted to the seatstays.   I have one on an 
old sequoia to support a large saddlebag and it is great.

Matt


On Tuesday, April 10, 2012 12:10:41 AM UTC-4, Forrest wrote:

 Would use rubber-lined clamps on the seat stays, and the long struts 
 bolted to fender braze-ons at the rear dropouts. Could just use a true 
 saddlebag sans rack, but I am overly fond of my Arkel Tail Rider trunk bag. 
 It only weighs a pound, and I usually never have more than 7-9 pounds of 
 stuff in it, max, often more like 5-6 pounds. But it is bullet-proof and 
 waterproof and expandable, and what if I come across a box turtle that I 
 would like to take home to my wife as a present (she's turtle-crazy)?



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[RBW] Re: SimpleOne

2012-04-08 Thread newenglandbike
I think one of the cool things about the QB and Simple One is the 120mm 
rear spacing combined with the relatively huge tire clearance, which AFAIK 
is pretty unique.   You can run a fairly narrow tread crank setup with a 
107mm BB and have get a decent chainline, and yet are able to fit tires up 
to 45s on the QB, or even 50s(?) with the Simple One. You also got the 
Rivendell geometry, lugs, rack and fenderability, build quality, etc.
All this is on top of those awesome 2 inch long angled dropouts.I shift 
my QB now and then between roads and trails, and it comes in handy with for 
example 40/16, 40/19, 32/19 and 32/22 available.   It's a shame they were 
forced to discontinue them, I wish they had been more of a hit.


On Sunday, April 8, 2012 8:27:37 PM UTC-4, EricP wrote:

 Well, in theory, one could have a Surly Cross Check set up for single 
 speed, and still end up ordering a SimpleOne.  In part due to longer 
 chainstays, slightly lower bottom bracket, kewl green color and being the 
 last of the completely different Rivendell models.  But that of course 
 would just be in theory.g 
  
 As a bike, the Cross Check is an excellent bike with a 130mm wide single 
 speed hub.  And I can convert mine to a 1x8or9 in about a half hour.
  
 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN
  

 On Sunday, April 8, 2012 3:25:42 PM UTC-5, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
 wrote:

 Obviously, not everybody will want a single-speed conversion on a 
 non-dedicated SS bike. My point was more to explain, in part, why maybe the 
 SO/QB wasn't a better seller because of frames like the CC that, in 
 function, do the same thing, for less dough.

 Another factor that I think relevant to lagging sales: my exhaustive 
 demographic research suggests that RBW's target market is 58-year-old 
 upper-middle income types who own multiple bikes (including, perhaps, a 
 vintage frame that can be converted). Single-speed popularity tends to be 
 driven, I dare say, by relative youngsters who have only one bike that they 
 ride and lock up everywhere. It's not practical or fashionable in this 
 crowd to have a nice/expensive/new bike. Far more street cred is attached 
 to machines lovingly assembled from dumpster frames and parts.


On Sunday, April 8, 2012 8:27:37 PM UTC-4, EricP wrote:

 Well, in theory, one could have a Surly Cross Check set up for single 
 speed, and still end up ordering a SimpleOne.  In part due to longer 
 chainstays, slightly lower bottom bracket, kewl green color and being the 
 last of the completely different Rivendell models.  But that of course 
 would just be in theory.g 
  
 As a bike, the Cross Check is an excellent bike with a 130mm wide single 
 speed hub.  And I can convert mine to a 1x8or9 in about a half hour.
  
 Eric Platt
 St. Paul, MN
  

 On Sunday, April 8, 2012 3:25:42 PM UTC-5, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery 
 wrote:

 Obviously, not everybody will want a single-speed conversion on a 
 non-dedicated SS bike. My point was more to explain, in part, why maybe the 
 SO/QB wasn't a better seller because of frames like the CC that, in 
 function, do the same thing, for less dough.

 Another factor that I think relevant to lagging sales: my exhaustive 
 demographic research suggests that RBW's target market is 58-year-old 
 upper-middle income types who own multiple bikes (including, perhaps, a 
 vintage frame that can be converted). Single-speed popularity tends to be 
 driven, I dare say, by relative youngsters who have only one bike that they 
 ride and lock up everywhere. It's not practical or fashionable in this 
 crowd to have a nice/expensive/new bike. Far more street cred is attached 
 to machines lovingly assembled from dumpster frames and parts.



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[RBW] Re: Contemplating herd thinning to all-26

2012-04-08 Thread newenglandbike
+1.   I would keep it and try find another way to downsize.   But then 
again that's what I do, and now pretty much all I own are some bicycles and 
a guitar.


On Sunday, April 8, 2012 7:23:13 PM UTC-4, Zack wrote:

 I came across this Long Low in the Riv Reader (I think #16)!  Great story 
 about how you wanted something that would be like your old Centurion. 
  Count me in the group that says hold on to the Riv.  There are surely 
 better places to downsize than a bike that you will literally not ever be 
 able to replace.



 On Saturday, April 7, 2012 11:33:27 AM UTC-4, Beth H wrote:

 Fellow Riv-freaks: 

 As my life and my bicycling style both evolve, some things have become 
 evident. Chief among them is that, of all my bikes, I tend to ride just two 
 the most:

 1. My Surly Big Dummy (no matter what BQ says, I really like mine); and
 2. My 1999 Riv All-Rounder (an acquisiting from another Riv-freak several 
 years ago).

 The former is absolutely necessary for hauling my guitar and amp to gigs, 
 not to mention groceries.
 The latter is my daily transportation. I had promised the previous owner 
 that I would ride the crap out of it, and that is basically what I've 
 been doing since I set it up for city riding.

 I have two other bikes that I don't ride so much anymore. 
 One is the singlespeed mountain bike I've raced on for the last three 
 years, and since I'm fairly certain I won't be racing anymore (my knees 
 can't really handle singlespeed and I don't want to race anything else) the 
 former bike will probably go this year. 
 The latter is my 700c-wheeled LongLow, a bike I've had since 1999 and 
 which I ride less and less as my style and needs change. I am more 
 emotionally attached to this bike than practically so, and I'd like to hear 
 from other folks who have become fans of an all-26-wheeled stable. When 
 did you do it and why?

 Beth in PDX

 http://www.reverbnation.com/bethhamon
 http://beth-hamon.blogspot.com/



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[RBW] Re: Bike Fit - Back Pain - RivRiders Handlebar Survey

2012-04-03 Thread newenglandbike
Bill-   could you be a little less overt in your shameless gambits for more 
bike porn?   have you no dignity man?

Now, back to the topic at hand:   Bruce, please post a picture of your bike 
already.

-Matt



On Tuesday, April 3, 2012 9:23:29 AM UTC-4, Bill M. wrote:

 Bruce,

 Can you post a good profile picture of your bike as it sits, and maybe one 
 of you on the bike?  

 Bill

 On Monday, April 2, 2012 5:05:14 PM UTC-7, Bruce Curry wrote:

 Tis the season to be putting on more miles and I am experiencing more 
 pronounced lower back pain.  For some reason climbing makes it even 
 worse.  I feel like my bars are too far forward for me but don't wan't 
 to launch on a stem buying spree without some scientific study and 
 addl input from group members.  The facts: 

 64cm Ram with the bars about 3cm over saddle height, 60cm cockpit w/a 
 12cm stem and a VO wayback seatpost w/a brooks B17.  I am tall with 
 long torso  short arms.  When I look at my front hub thru my bars the 
 hub is about an inch ahead of the line made by the bars (but since the 
 bars are up so high this point is essentially moot).  What I think is 
 probably the most telling issue is that my knees remain about 7 away 
 from my bars (measured horizontally from each other from a purely 
 eyeballed vertical plane separating my knee from the bars).  The 
 method I used to take this measurement was to spin backwards holding 
 onto the wall looking straight down at a tape measure to judge the 
 imaginary horizontal distance from the farthest forward progress of 
 the knee. 

 Has anyone else faced this challenge?  Solution?  Does the knee-bar 
 quotient seem like a rational metric.  Anyone else care to share 
 their number? 

 Bruce in Seattle



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Re: [RBW] Bosco bars - different flares?

2012-04-02 Thread newenglandbike
I'm pretty sure that's a trick of the camera lens (wide angle), and that 
those are two photos of the same bar.

Matt



On Sunday, April 1, 2012 7:04:30 PM UTC-4, BSWP wrote:

 I saw the new Bosco bars on the RBW site... the pictures give the 
 impression that some of the bars have parallel grips, and some have 
 wide flared grips. Is this just a trick of the camera lens? Same 
 effect can be seen for both the standard bars, and the bullmoose bars. 
 Maybe the pictures are a blend of prototype bars? 

 For example, compare 

 http://www.rivbike.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=HB12PhotoNumber=4 

 to 

 http://www.rivbike.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=HB12PhotoNumber=3 

 - Andrew, Berkeley

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[RBW] Re: A new tent for bicycle camping?

2012-04-01 Thread newenglandbike
I've been using a Hilleberg Unna tent for years now.  Best tent I've 
ever had.so simple to set up and tear down, and tough as nails.
Green color-   which is a big thing for me about tents-   I need them to be 
GREEN (but not lime green).

-Matt


On Saturday, March 31, 2012 10:32:35 PM UTC-4, C.J. Filip wrote:

 Used a Big Agnes Seedhouse for a number of years backpacking.  It 
 was plenty light enough, probably too light since the aluminum poles 
 kept splitting at the ends.  IIRC the Seedhouse may have been in the 
 low three-pound range so your poles might be a little beefier.  Big 
 Agnes replaced the poles without hassle or questions. 

 The Hilleberg tents that Grant and former employee Daniel rave about 
 are some of the highest quality you can buy yet the weight is right 
 there with your Lynx Pass. 

 I'm happy to get 3 seasons out of my backpacking and outdoor gear in 
 general.  $100 would be money well spent if you stay dry, nothing 
 breaks or rips and you get some good use out of it, IMHO. 



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Re: [RBW] 650b Alternatives to Pari Motos.

2012-03-27 Thread newenglandbike
My girlfriend's first-gen Hillborne has Hetre's on it and there is plenty 
of room for fenders (though she doesn't use fenders). 


On Tuesday, March 27, 2012 3:53:19 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On Tue, 2012-03-27 at 08:11 -0700, RJM wrote:
  I am looking for some alternatives to Pari Motos for my Sam.  I have
  been having a problem with flats with these tires, and they seem like
  they are wearing out quicker than I would like. Looking for something
  that will still have some performance and won't be sluggish on the
  road but will still be able to take some road abuse.  I have a spare
  wheelset with Fatty Rumpkins for dirt and touring so I have that kind
  of stuff covered.  Any ideas, recommendations or opinions?

 If the Hetres fit, they're your best bet; however, they may not fit a
 Hillborne.  A good second at a true 38mm is the Lierre.  I don't know
 what their service life will be, but I'm sure it will be significantly
 longer than the Pari Motos, as the PMs have a very thin tread, and the
 Lierres aren't sluggish at all.




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Re: [RBW] What eye protection do y'all use when riding?

2012-03-24 Thread newenglandbike
I wear KDs or sunglasses, or double-lens (no fog) ski goggles in the winter.

On Saturday, March 24, 2012 7:31:18 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:

 On Sat, 2012-03-24 at 17:13 -0600, PATRICK MOORE wrote:
  You long distance riders: what do you wear, if anything, to protect
  your eyes from sun, wind, dust and pollen? I dislike glasses intensely
   because I sweat all over them so that in very short order they become
  largely opaque -- as even the very well designed -- the frames sit
  away from the face -- R Projects got smeared today in 12 miles at 74F,
  11% humidity.

 I wear RayBan Aviators.  Although I occasionally do get a few spots on
 the inside of the lenses, primarily from tearing on extremely windy
 days, I typically do not sweat on the lenses even though our notion of a
 humid day here in metro DC is often as much as ten times higher than
 Patrick's.  

 And when it comes to pollen -- some days around here, you finish a ride
 with a green or yellow skin and need to run the windshield washers
 before you can drive home after the ride.  



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Re: [RBW] New Drivetrain for my Atlantis

2012-03-22 Thread newenglandbike
I have at least 10K on a set of shimano deores (6K continental tour +2.5 
years commuting), re-laced them twice but didn't even clean them off, and 
they still spin silky smooth.   

On Wednesday, March 21, 2012 8:47:00 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:

 11K on a set of Phils and they feel like new. 10K and 7 K in two
 (titanium!) bb assemblies, ditto. Heck, the --what, 30? 40? -- year
 old 3 piece Phils on the old Herse I briefly owned were as smooth as
 the newer ones.

 On Wed, Mar 21, 2012 at 4:48 PM, Bruce Herbitter
 bruce.herbit...@gmail.com wrote:
  I've got over 4k miles on a set of white industries hubs and they still 
 font
  need service
 
  Sent from my Kindle Fire
 
  
  From: Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com
  Sent: Wed Mar 21 16:26:57 CDT 2012
  To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
  Subject: Re: [RBW] New Drivetrain for my Atlantis
 
  On Wed, Mar 21, 2012 at 5:25 PM, sanjoser thomas.savar...@gmail.com 
 wrote:
  hello everyone
 
  I've had a mix of components on my atlantis for it's life, these 10 
 years
  or
  so.
  different shifters, hubs, gears, drivetrain, etc.
  I've got the urge to do an upgrade, and I'd really like to go campy. 
 I've
  been
  advised that my chris king hubs are fine, so long as they get serviced
  every
  six months, so I guess I'll keep those, but everything else is up for
  change.
  This is my goto bike for commuting and tours. I guess I don't have to
  explain that
  to this group.
  So, what 's the consensus?
  best regards
  tom
 
 
  You have to service your hubs every 6 months??
 
  that seems... excessive.
  -sv
 
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 For professional resumes, contact
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 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html


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Re: [RBW] New Drivetrain for my Atlantis

2012-03-22 Thread newenglandbike
PS I'm not proud of that level of neglect of my hubs---  but life gets in 
the way and usually something else is up with my bike/wheels (new england 
road salt eats rims for breakfast).I'm tempted to go clean those hubs 
up right now just b/c they are damn good hubs.

On Thursday, March 22, 2012 5:40:28 AM UTC-4, newenglandbike wrote:

 I have at least 10K on a set of shimano deores (6K continental tour +2.5 
 years commuting), re-laced them twice but didn't even clean them off, and 
 they still spin silky smooth.   

 On Wednesday, March 21, 2012 8:47:00 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:

 11K on a set of Phils and they feel like new. 10K and 7 K in two
 (titanium!) bb assemblies, ditto. Heck, the --what, 30? 40? -- year
 old 3 piece Phils on the old Herse I briefly owned were as smooth as
 the newer ones.

 On Wed, Mar 21, 2012 at 4:48 PM, Bruce Herbitter
 bruce.herbit...@gmail.com wrote:
  I've got over 4k miles on a set of white industries hubs and they still 
 font
  need service
 
  Sent from my Kindle Fire
 
  
  From: Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com
  Sent: Wed Mar 21 16:26:57 CDT 2012
  To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
  Subject: Re: [RBW] New Drivetrain for my Atlantis
 
  On Wed, Mar 21, 2012 at 5:25 PM, sanjoser thomas.savar...@gmail.com 
 wrote:
  hello everyone
 
  I've had a mix of components on my atlantis for it's life, these 10 
 years
  or
  so.
  different shifters, hubs, gears, drivetrain, etc.
  I've got the urge to do an upgrade, and I'd really like to go campy. 
 I've
  been
  advised that my chris king hubs are fine, so long as they get serviced
  every
  six months, so I guess I'll keep those, but everything else is up for
  change.
  This is my goto bike for commuting and tours. I guess I don't have to
  explain that
  to this group.
  So, what 's the consensus?
  best regards
  tom
 
 
  You have to service your hubs every 6 months??
 
  that seems... excessive.
  -sv
 
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 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW
 http://resumespecialties.com/index.html



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Re: [RBW] New Drivetrain for my Atlantis

2012-03-21 Thread newenglandbike
I was thinking the same thing... unless I'm riding 60 miles every day, I 
don't want to be servicing hubs that often.  But back on the drivetrain 
question-   I'm sorry I can't make a recommendation if you want to get 
Campagnolo-   but I've had really good experience with shimano XT, 8-speed 
cassettes and KMC chains on my Bombadil.


On Wednesday, March 21, 2012 5:26:57 PM UTC-4, Seth Vidal wrote:

 On Wed, Mar 21, 2012 at 5:25 PM, sanjoser thomas.savar...@gmail.com 
 wrote:
  hello everyone
 
  I've had a mix of components on my atlantis for it's life, these 10 
 years or
  so.
  different shifters, hubs, gears, drivetrain, etc.
  I've got the urge to do an upgrade, and I'd really like to go campy. I've
  been
  advised that my chris king hubs are fine, so long as they get serviced
  every
  six months, so I guess I'll keep those, but everything else is up for
  change.
  This is my goto bike for commuting and tours. I guess I don't have to
  explain that
  to this group.
  So, what 's the consensus?
  best regards
  tom
 

 You have to service your hubs every 6 months??

 that seems... excessive.
 -sv


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Re: [RBW] Re: 650b ... the next wave.

2012-03-20 Thread newenglandbike
I'm always glad to see more positive exposure for 650b as well, since I 
agree that it is only natural to have a prominent size option to fill the 
relatively huge gap between 559 and 622 in a market where people sweat 
1/2-degree ST/HT angle diffs and fraction-of-a-cm top tube and chainstay 
increments.I just hope there continue to be good 650b rims for those of 
us who don't race and prefer rim-brakes.


-Matt


On Tuesday, March 20, 2012 2:13:43 PM UTC-4, John Speare wrote:

  Agreed, I’m looking forward to:

 -  That same 40mm knobbie

 -  Better selection of XC-style sus forks for 584 (heresy on this 
 list, I know!)

  

  

  

 *From:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:
 rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *William
 *Sent:* Tuesday, March 20, 2012 11:04 AM
 *To:* rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 *Subject:* [RBW] Re: 650b ... the next wave.

  

 The speculation is that there have been carbon tubular 650c rims in the 
 Tri-community for years, and mountain tubulars to fit same, for years. 
  That's been common in the mountain bike racing community.  Not dominant, 
 but not unheard of.  It's obviously possible that DT swiss made a 584 
 prototype, and that Dugast made a tire to fit it.  
  
  
  
 I don't have any first hand info on any of this.  I ride 584 with fervor, 
 and am committed to the wheelsize.  The fact that the industry will be 
 making a push to bring it into the mainstream is great in my book.  It's 
 hard to predict how it'll make my life more convenient.  At least it will 
 mean more shops will stock the tubes and the spokes that I may need.  Since 
 most of the new wave of bikes will have disc brakes, we may not see a lot 
 of rims for the rest of us.  Besides tubes and spokes, the next thing I'm 
 hoping for is a ~40mm knobby, like a 650B cyclocross tire.  That would be 
 kind of fun.

 On Tuesday, March 20, 2012 10:49:23 AM UTC-7, Patrick in VT wrote:

 On Mar 20, 12:56 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote: 
  There's rampant speculation that Nino's bike isn't 650B at all.  It's 
 far 
  more likely that it's 650C.  Who cares between 571 and 584?  Nobody 
 among 
  the converted.  It's just now that the mainstream is about to launch a 
  bunch of 584 mountain bikes, they want to claim that 584 wins races, 
 even 
  if Nino's bike isn't 584. 

 why would it be 650c?  that doesn't make any sense.  DT swiss has 
 confirmed that they're working on 650b wheels and it would make sense 
 that Nino was on prototypes (his whole bike was a prototype).  Given 
 the cost of prototyping everything - and the positive feedback from 
 guys like Nino - I think it's a pretty good indication that DT and 
 Scott will probably throw their hat in the 650b ring.  why one-off a 
 650c bike?


 On Tuesday, March 20, 2012 10:49:23 AM UTC-7, Patrick in VT wrote:

 On Mar 20, 12:56 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote: 
  There's rampant speculation that Nino's bike isn't 650B at all.  It's 
 far 
  more likely that it's 650C.  Who cares between 571 and 584?  Nobody 
 among 
  the converted.  It's just now that the mainstream is about to launch a 
  bunch of 584 mountain bikes, they want to claim that 584 wins races, 
 even 
  if Nino's bike isn't 584. 

 why would it be 650c?  that doesn't make any sense.  DT swiss has 
 confirmed that they're working on 650b wheels and it would make sense 
 that Nino was on prototypes (his whole bike was a prototype).  Given 
 the cost of prototyping everything - and the positive feedback from 
 guys like Nino - I think it's a pretty good indication that DT and 
 Scott will probably throw their hat in the 650b ring.  why one-off a 
 650c bike?
  
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[RBW] Re: Jan Heine says I can ride my Bombadil forever!

2012-03-15 Thread newenglandbike
Well, one might not be able to ride one's bombadil forever, but certainly 
someone or other will be able to ride it forever.   It's a bike for 
multiple geological ages, let alone lifetimes :)

On Thursday, March 15, 2012 1:25:53 PM UTC-4, William wrote:

 OK, that's not a direct quote.  He didn't say that specifically, but in 
 today's blog post, Jan *does* debunk the notion that steel frames go 
 soft with use.  They don't.  You can't break in a steel bike and make it 
 get more flexible for comfort and planing, and you can't wear out a steel 
 frame in terms of stiffness.  It doesn't get flexier with use.  You might 
 break it with use, but you won't make it flexier.  Good read and 
 uncontroversial for many of us, but definitely counter to the popular 
 notion in the cycling community in general.

 http://janheine.wordpress.com/2012/03/15/frames-going-soft/ 




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Re: [RBW] Downhill video

2012-03-09 Thread newenglandbike
This must be part of the standard EN testing (mentioned on the current BLUG 
posthttp://rivbike.tumblr.com/post/18970478258/i-know-its-kind-of-a-cheap-shot-to-show-this)
 
that all the Riv models go through.


On Thursday, March 8, 2012 7:08:41 PM UTC-5, David G wrote:

 Perfect course for a Rosco Bubbe
  
 - David G, Madison WI

 On Thu, Mar 8, 2012 at 6:04 PM, MSmith bee...@gmail.com wrote:

 This is not new news, but I recently re-discovered this video.  
 Unbelievable skills, nerves of steel, and way bigger cojones anyone I know.

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIe6hYAdw_I

 Check out the dog that wanders onto the course...

 Mike in balmy So. Boston, Mass

  


On Thursday, March 8, 2012 7:08:41 PM UTC-5, David G wrote:

 Perfect course for a Rosco Bubbe
  
 - David G, Madison WI

 On Thu, Mar 8, 2012 at 6:04 PM, MSmith bee...@gmail.com wrote:

 This is not new news, but I recently re-discovered this video.  
 Unbelievable skills, nerves of steel, and way bigger cojones anyone I know.

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIe6hYAdw_I

 Check out the dog that wanders onto the course...

 Mike in balmy So. Boston, Mass

  


On Thursday, March 8, 2012 7:08:41 PM UTC-5, David G wrote:

 Perfect course for a Rosco Bubbe
  
 - David G, Madison WI

 On Thu, Mar 8, 2012 at 6:04 PM, MSmith bee...@gmail.com wrote:

 This is not new news, but I recently re-discovered this video.  
 Unbelievable skills, nerves of steel, and way bigger cojones anyone I know.

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIe6hYAdw_I

 Check out the dog that wanders onto the course...

 Mike in balmy So. Boston, Mass

  


On Thursday, March 8, 2012 7:08:41 PM UTC-5, David G wrote:

 Perfect course for a Rosco Bubbe
  
 - David G, Madison WI

 On Thu, Mar 8, 2012 at 6:04 PM, MSmith bee...@gmail.com wrote:

 This is not new news, but I recently re-discovered this video.  
 Unbelievable skills, nerves of steel, and way bigger cojones anyone I know.

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xIe6hYAdw_I

 Check out the dog that wanders onto the course...

 Mike in balmy So. Boston, Mass

  



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[RBW] Re: SH/AHH sizing question

2012-02-29 Thread newenglandbike
The more I think about it, the more I think seat height (SH) is a better 
measurement to go by than PBH if you're going to dive in to a new frame and 
want the right size. PBH can be measured wrong sometimes, whereas if 
you have a bike you've been riding a while, it's pretty easy run a tape 
measure from the center of the bb to the top of the seat and read it from 
the side.Your PBH being 94cm would suggest a SH of 84cm, which would 
put you on a 67-69cm AHH if you go by the SH - 15 to 17cm which would give 
a fistful of seatpost.The 65cm would work too but with more post/stem 
showing.Again this is assuming an 84cm seat height.

For top-tube length, you can use a shorter stem, which is what I have done 
on some of my bikes.   If the longer TT is still not ideal for your 
back/shoulders, I would order a custom.I have done this myself and yes 
it is more expensive, but you will get the Riv fit that is perfect for 
you.   Anyway good luck.

Matt



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[RBW] Re: SH/AHH sizing question

2012-02-26 Thread newenglandbike
Welcome to the board LM, and congrats on deciding to go with a riv.   
regarding your sizing dilemma I vote that you should listen to Rivendell's 
recommendation. I've heard many people say they've regretted not 
following the Riv recommended sizing and went too small because of 
experience with other brands/bikes.   Check out this article for great 
advice:   https://www.rivbike.com/kb_results.asp?ID=41

Anyway don't fear the recommendation RBW gave you-   they wouldn't steer 
you wrong. 

-Matt



On Saturday, February 25, 2012 2:14:48 PM UTC-5, Lugmonster wrote:

 Hello all, 

 I live in Australia and am thinking of picking up a Riv, either a 
 Hillborne or a Hilsen. Given shipping issues etc. I'm sweating over 
 picking the right sized frame. My PBH is 94cm but my height is only 
 186cm ie. I have a pretty long bottom half and short top half. The 
 folks at Riv are suggesting that I should be looking at a 64cm 
 Hillborne or a 65cm Hilsen. 

 Now this to me seems massive, as I seem to be comfortable on an 
 effective top tube length of about 570mm on a standard racing bike 
 (56-68cm frame). Any top tube past 580mm and I feel like its a bit of 
 a stretch. I'm therefore thinking of maybe a smaller Hilsen (?63) or a 
 60cm Hillborne. 

 I do appreciate that the bars will be higher thus shortening the 
 distance to handlebars but still it seems like those frames are a bit 
 stretched out for me. Anyone with a similar build who has had 
 experiences positive or negative with Riv sizing? Could you provide 
 some advice? Thanks! 



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Re: [RBW] Re: Drop Bar Newbie Qs

2012-02-24 Thread newenglandbike
I've tried lots of different drop bars on various bikes and Noodles always 
feel the best to me. With both noodles and traditional drop bars-  when set 
up with the right reach-  I find that when you're riding along on the 
hoods, and decide you want to move to the drops or hooks, they feel 
excessively low and forward at first.But if you give it five minutes in 
that position, your body gets used to it, and it becomes quite 
comfortable.

After riding along settled in the hooks for a while, suddenly you have the 
opposite problem-   moving to the hoods makes you feel bolt-upright, and 
you feel momentarily as though your bars are too high. But give it five 
minutes

I guess the hard part is finding the right reach, where the tops/hoods and 
the hooks feel right for their purpose.But as drop bars go, Noodles 
have the best proportions IMHO.


-Matt

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[RBW] Re: Unique Hillborne for sale on the Bay

2012-02-24 Thread newenglandbike
I have noticed that too. On Rivendells with sidepull brakes, it seems 
like the pads are always positioned near the end of the slot, since the 
brake is positioned for maximum tire clearance. On Rivs with cantis, 
the pads always seem to be best aligned to the rim when near the bottom of 
the slot, which maximizes leverage (and modulation, in my experience).
Its all about the details, and they really get it right.

-Matt



On Friday, February 24, 2012 3:02:37 PM UTC-5, William wrote:

 I'd be extremely cautious buying a Riv with canti-posts put on after the 
 fact.  One of the spectacular aspects of all the Rivendells I've built is 
 that on all of them the brake post positioning has been spot on perfect. 
  I've built up enough bikes in my bike shop days to see how variable 
 cantilever and v-brake performance is when the QC in post positioning is 
 variable.  I think that's something that people overlook when they review 
 the performance of a set of brakes.  The position of your posts locks into 
 place a crucial part of the geometry of the system, and therefore 
 determines a big part of how the brakes will perform.  You can just slap on 
 posts within a few mm and make up for it with pad adjustment to get the 
 brakes set up, but two identical bikes with the same tubing and the same 
 brakes could have much different braking performance if the posts are a few 
 mm lower on one bike than the other.  

 On Friday, February 24, 2012 11:38:58 AM UTC-8, Jim Thill - Hiawatha 
 Cyclery wrote:

 There's nothing odd-looking about v-brakes to anyone who has been around 
 mountain bikes in the past 15-20 years (but before everything had discs). 
 I've never understood the claim that cantilevers have superior aesthetics, 
 especially since (IMO) they work worse and are fiddly to set up and keep 
 adjusted.

 On Friday, February 24, 2012 12:59:38 PM UTC-6, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote:

 The 1st gen green Sams have canti posts. 
 I put v-brakes on mine. 
 Looks a bit odd but works great. 

 Jay 

 On Feb 24, 8:42 pm, Peter M uscpeter11...@gmail.com wrote: 
  Not related at all to seller, looks like an interesting conversion to 
  cantis, I would need a whole repaint because I am OCD, thank god it is 
  not my size. 
  
  http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rivendell-Sam-Hillborne-60cm-frameset-/190645.
 ..



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[RBW] Re: Grant, in (or soon to be) in print.

2012-02-23 Thread newenglandbike
I'm definitely going with at least one paper book since I don't have a 
kindle.  I like Bill's idea of signed copies too, but either way it will be 
a great read for the start of the summer and I can't wait.

-Matt

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[RBW] Re: Fork rake radius

2012-02-21 Thread newenglandbike
William, that bombadil's color is badass.

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Re: [RBW] Jimmy Carter

2012-02-20 Thread newenglandbike
Yes that picture has been around for a while.   But kinda cool to be 
reminded of it... fenderlines be damned, that's a nice bike.

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Re: [RBW] Re: 650b and the MTB crowd.

2012-02-17 Thread newenglandbike
I really like the 650b wheel size for MTB, and am glad it is still slowly 
catching on.As for availability, I also live near Harris cyclery and 
they do have 650b tubes and tires. Awesome bike shop all around, and 
Elton and Susan rock and know a lot about steel bikes (everyone there is 
great).  However for MTB tires I've been the Schwalbe Fatty ones from 
Riv, which last ludicrous amounts of time compared to anything else I've 
tried. 

So yeah..  For regular brake rims you have Velocity synergy or dyad, for 
MTB tires there are Quasi-motos, IRC, Kenda and of course the supreme 
schwalbe 650b Fatty that Riv sells.  I'm all for lots of variety but 
those choices are sweet and as long as they keep making at least those, we 
should be good. 


Matt

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[RBW] Re: Best sellers-worst sellers

2012-02-17 Thread newenglandbike
I have low-normal derailleurs on a couple of my bikes. So much better 
than high-normal IMHO.

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[RBW] Re: East Coast Rivendells / BOBs

2012-02-15 Thread newenglandbike
I live in the Boston area and am a rivenhead for sure.   I know there are 
lots more around here, and have even seen the occasional Rambouillet or AHH 
going by the other way!I primarily ride to work and back and ride the 
trails and aquaducts around newton/weston ma.In the summer I am 
engulfed by the occasional peloton, but miss those guys in the winter (even 
now when we have no snow).

Anyway it seems that in Boston there are lots of steel bikes of all kinds, 
but ironically enough, mostly among younger riders.I think the fixie 
thing, for all its controversy and hype, really introduced young riders to 
the virtues of steel and the fact that durability/repairability IS an 
important part of performance.Fixed gear culture also helped dissolve 
the notion that special plastic clothing is required for riding a bicycle 
(after all, you only need tight jeans and a couple neck tattoos :).  
But seriously, maybe its a stretch but I have hope for the future of BOBish 
principles around here because of the kids.   And Bikes Not Bombs.

-Matt

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[RBW] Re: East Coast Rivendells / BOBs

2012-02-15 Thread newenglandbike
Good point Jim, I totally agree with you about the influence that Grant and 
folks like Sheldon Brown have had, on both bicycle culture, and the 
prevalence of new steel bikes from more mainstream companies-   didn't mean 
to overlook that in my hypothesis about why so many people are riding steel 
frames now.Rivendell has advocated the use of steel and lugs 
continuously since bridgestone, and has always had a dedicated following 
(though smaller at the beginning), whereas the fixie culture has helped get 
a somewhat tangential group of people on board, who will hopefully all end 
up as BOBs/ROBs too heh heh :D

Matt

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[RBW] Re: 46 Noodles swapped for 42s

2012-02-12 Thread newenglandbike
I agree with Charlie-   the wide ones seem better for offroad riding.   
Still, I traded 46s I had on my Bombadil for 42s last year and don't want 
to go back.I must have to to do with my narrow bird-like shoulders 
:DBottom line for me though either size of Noodle bar are the best bars 
I've ridden yet. The backsweep + flat ramps and drops equals 
unparalleled comfort.

I remember reading about a year ago, maybe in a Rivendell blog post, that 
steel Noodles were in the works.I really like that idea.


-Matt


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Re: [RBW] Re: Medium shopsack is back!

2012-02-12 Thread newenglandbike
Yay!  I'm glad their disappearance is only temporary.   I hope to grab 
another one when they come back.

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[RBW] Re: Medium shopsack is back!

2012-02-10 Thread newenglandbike
Shoot, it's gone again!  

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Re: [RBW] Packing the Sackville Shopsack

2012-02-09 Thread newenglandbike
I have a medium shopsack too, for groceries, and I love it.In fact, I 
want to get another one-   but I notice they aren't on the site anymore.
Where'd they go?   I hope they weren't discontinued with the sale (were 
they?)! I'd be really bummed if that were the case.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Atlantis vs. Sam

2012-02-06 Thread newenglandbike
'One guy pointed out that my bike was more a toy than a machine.  '

LOL at some spandex tool on a race bike calling your bike a 'toy'.   
Bicycling is so f-ed up these days.



On Monday, February 6, 2012 5:25:16 PM UTC-5, Smitty-A-Go-Go wrote:

 I think they didn't know what to make of Homer and as a result saw the 
 lugs + shiny bits as frivolous. I was aware going in the possibility of my 
 bike being seen as being an oddball but I didn't think it would be pointed 
 out to me. 

 As a correction... one of my initial sentences was half deleted... or 
 perhaps I only typed half of it before my brain jumped ahead. Anyway... it 
 should read: One guy pointed out that my bike was more a toy than a 
 machine.  

 I've a friend who refers to me as a Riven-dork but it's used in a 
 friendly way. He understands + rides fat tires, racks and bags... he just 
 thinks Rivs are over priced. 

 I've heard of Rivsters getting guff like this but now I feel like I've 
 been initiated into the next level of Riv-ness.

 --Smitty

  


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[RBW] Re: Big bikes and limits

2012-02-03 Thread newenglandbike
Awesome bike man. On cursory judgement by the seatpost and 
seat/handlebar height, it looks like it fits damn comfortably. 

  

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Re: [RBW] Nuance of the rebate system

2012-01-31 Thread newenglandbike
+1.Rebates are a bonus, so however Rivendell want to do them is OK with 
me.   I won't be paying attention.


On Wednesday, February 1, 2012 12:52:25 AM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:

 I liked the old system better, but don't really care much. I'll just 
 ignore the rebate situation and order stuff when I need it.

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[RBW] Re: QB Bottom Bracket

2012-01-28 Thread newenglandbike
I think mine came with a 107mm. If you're using the QB crank though, 
the 32t ring is going to be real close to the chainstay.  real close.   
Hasn't been a problem for me though.

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[RBW] Re: Is the San Marcos a true Rivendell?

2012-01-25 Thread newenglandbike
As far as I know Grant Petersen designed every aspect of it, so it should 
have similar ride quality to a Hillborne.It's just a slightly lighter, 
more road oriented version that takes smaller tires. You can get them 
directly from Rivendell or from Soma but they'd probably build them with 
different parts if you bought it complete.



-Matt

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[RBW] Re: Indian bike names

2012-01-07 Thread newenglandbike
I went to college in a town called Amherst-  as awful a name, due to its 
history, as any word or name that has been appropriated from Native 
American language.But it's just a name, and better that it be used and 
not forgotten by the general public than otherwise.

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[RBW] Re: (What's So Funny 'Bout) Peace, Love, and Understanding?

2012-01-05 Thread newenglandbike
You may have misread Bill's post (or maybe I am misreading it).I don't 
think anyone was suggesting riding in the center of the road. However, 
'taking the lane', or moving away from the shoulder to discourage motor 
traffic from trying to 'squeeze past' when it is not safe to do so (road is 
too narrow, oncoming traffic, debris in the shoulder, etc) is a well 
documented strategy for riding a bicycle safely on the roads.   Sure it 
isn't gospel, and some disagree with this strategy-   but to heck with 
anyone (police or whoever) who tells me not to use it-  it has saved my ass 
many times, whereas obsequiously hugging the shoulder has proven hazardous 
(in my experience).


Safe travels

-Matt

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[RBW] Re: (What's So Funny 'Bout) Peace, Love, and Understanding?

2012-01-05 Thread newenglandbike
WTF is that supposed to mean!?   You clearly have no idea what you're 
talking about.  :)

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[RBW] Re: Quickbeam vs SimpleOne

2012-01-04 Thread newenglandbike
You could use an old 120mm 5-speed, which can still be found.

On Tuesday, January 3, 2012 10:39:40 PM UTC-5, Allan in Portland wrote:

 IIRC, the rear spacing is 120mm. I suppose one could spring it to 126 to 
 fit an old 5 or 6 speed, but I'm not sure that still qualifies as easily.

 Regards,
 -Allan


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Re: [RBW] Re: Roadeo or RB1?

2012-01-04 Thread newenglandbike
I am not interested in fenders or tires larger than 28, nor am I 
interested (for the purposes of this discussion) in fineness of joinery or 
cosmetic details. Just fit (or potential for fit) and, above all, handling.

In that case you should just get early 80's Centurion LeMans, Raliegh 
Comp., Nishiki International, Panasonic, or similar for like half what you 
will pay for the RB1.   Great bikes.  There are plenty of bikes just as 
good if not better than an RB1 in the above respects, without the RB1's 
attendant cache  price tag (which is in no small part due to the 
subsequent success of Rivendell).   Not to downplay Bridgestone-   cool 
catalogs, innovative ideas (but the RB1 was not one of them).

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[RBW] Re: Half-step + granny gearing...

2012-01-04 Thread newenglandbike
I used to have a half-step+granny gearing on my Sequoia (but went to a 
touring triple now).I use an 8-speed in the back with the DO spacing 
spread to 130. I have to agree that with an 8-speed, you definitely *do 
not* need the half-step/granny setup. To really leverage half-step 
gearing you're just going to be shifting almost twice as often and would 
have to be really, really finicky about cadence.


Matt

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Re: [RBW] Anyone Regret Selling a Bike?

2011-12-31 Thread newenglandbike
When I was a kid my dad auctioned off my yellow motobike at the Lion's Club 
auction one summer without telling me. I don't have any hard feelings 
over it, but I do miss that bike - I rode that thing everywhere and it is 
the reason I love riding bikes today. 

The thing about the Quickbeam is that it might not be easy to replace.
Especially since the Simple One seems to be going away.

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[RBW] Re: Can I rant just a minute?

2011-12-29 Thread newenglandbike
I can only imagine the bikes in question (so I'm just going on pure 
assumption here) but my theory is this:   weight comes up so often because 
on certain modern plastic bikes, it is the only redeeming quality left to 
praise.

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Re: [RBW] All American Roadeo

2011-12-22 Thread newenglandbike
It would be cool to see Paul, or any of the other US makes for that matter, 
making derailleurs again.I'm sure they'd make your wallet ache 
something fierce but dang it would be cool. I think it will happen 
someday.

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[RBW] Re: All American Roadeo

2011-12-22 Thread newenglandbike
It seems the point is to buy from extant US manufacturers when possible, 
but to try to find vintage US-made stuff otherwise.


On Thursday, December 22, 2011 1:00:04 PM UTC-5, Kevin M wrote:

 I'm not sure how buying NIB or NOS items off ebay actually helps US 
 manufacturers. 


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[RBW] Re: Schwalbe Winter Studded Tires Clearance question

2011-12-21 Thread newenglandbike
One more vote for 35's-added snow clearance is good, but also, I find 
that if you go too fat you can get a floating effect on fresh snow.
Especially at anything over 10mph. 

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[RBW] Re: 3 pictures of my beautiful Redwood

2011-12-18 Thread newenglandbike
NICE!Couple questions: What color is that-it looks like the 
original Redwood color but I am not sure. Also, what size tires are 
those?Bike looks great with them.

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[RBW] Re: Selle Saddle Sale

2011-12-11 Thread newenglandbike
These saddles are great. I have a no-slot model-   well made, made in the 
US, super comfy.   what more could you ask!

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[RBW] Re: updated geometry chart

2011-12-02 Thread newenglandbike
On Friday, December 2, 2011 9:33:39 AM UTC-5, Garth wrote:

 Is the chart up to date accurate though?  When I inquired about a 62cm. 
 Hunq frame, I was informed the TT was more like 64 or 64.5cm , I can't 
 remember which. That would change some other dimensions as well. The chart 
 shows the original specs, but nothing new as far as I can tell. 



I think the actual TT on the 58 is ~61cm which makes the theoretical TT 
about 63cm, and the actual TT on the 62 is ~63cm and the theoretical TT is 
about 65.

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[RBW] Re: New Rivideo. DD paint

2011-11-23 Thread newenglandbike
+1.The seat-tube sticker is a b.Getting the back to line up 
decently ain't easy. This whole video is pretty awe inspiring though-  
a top craftsman at work.


On Wednesday, November 23, 2011 2:51:53 AM UTC-5, Joe Bernard wrote:

 The most fascinating part for me was the decal placement. It takes a lot 
 of nerve to say yeah, that looks right that quickly. 

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Re: [RBW] dropping roadies feels so good.

2011-11-21 Thread newenglandbike
It's been said that a bicycle without fenders is just a toy.To me 
that's a little extreme, but makes a good point if the bicycle lives in an 
area that gets more than, say, 35 inches of rain per year.   However in my 
opinion it's not too extreme to say the same thing about provision for 
carrying cargo, however small (and not just water bottles).   

NOT that there's anything wrong with toys(!)-   but I think bicycles 
deserve a better purpose at least once in their lifetimes.



On Monday, November 21, 2011 10:15:03 AM UTC-5, James Warren wrote:


 They're not.

 I know stubborn people who stop just short of telling me that they 
 wouldn't be caught dead ever attaching anything resembling a bag to their 
 bike. It means that the kinds of rides I like to do (overnighters) are 
 never an option for us planning group events.

 -Jim W.


 On Nov 21, 2011, at 6:53 AM, René Sterental wrote:

  I'd like to see them pulling/pushing my heft and see if they'd even be 
 riding...



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[RBW] Re: Stolen Hillborne: Chicago

2011-11-21 Thread newenglandbike
Aw man, so sorry to hear about that! I hope you get your bike back.   
Do you by any chance have the serial # written down anywhere?  It might 
be helpful in recovering it, especially if it shows up for sale somewhere.


-Matt

PS Also you might want to be all over craigslist for a 
whilehttp://abcnews.go.com/blogs/headlines/2011/11/colorado-woman-spots-stolen-bike-on-craigslist-steals-it-back/
.

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[RBW] Re: Serial Number Database

2011-11-18 Thread newenglandbike
This is pretty neat.Hats off to RBW for providing this service. really 
cool thing to do.

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[RBW] Re: Serial Number Database

2011-11-18 Thread newenglandbike
Dave,  

Great work on this thing, thanks for continuing to awesomize the website.


Matt

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[RBW] Re: Why I Aspire

2011-11-14 Thread newenglandbike
Good bikes look better with age

http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsargent/3371199870/in/faves-43029278@N07/#/photos/robsargent/3371199870/in/faves-43029278@N07/lightbox/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/collectvelo/4428254190/in/faves-43029278@N07/#/photos/collectvelo/4428254190/in/faves-43029278@N07/lightbox/


Not saying a repaint now and then isn't warranted, but a good patina can be 
like a badge of honor on a bike.


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Re: [RBW] Re: Winter Cycling Wear!

2011-11-12 Thread newenglandbike
Wool longjohns for the legs, works pretty good.   It's kind of like 
dressing for some cross country skiing-  you don't don't need super heavy 
insulation, except maybe on extremities  (hands, feet, etc).

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[RBW] Next generation Bombadil

2011-11-10 Thread newenglandbike
Just browsing through Flickr photos and came across this beast!

http://farm7.static.flickr.com/6162/6184561746_7ee36e200c_b.jpg

This, my friends, has what you could call a nice large tire-to-frame-tubes 
ratio.   8 tires with room for fenders.   Dang!

Note that, in testing, these tires actually proved to be *faster* than 
700x25c's on average.Analysis of results seemed to point to the the 
'supple sidewalls' on these bad boys.


Just had to share :)


-Matt

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[RBW] Re: OMG, a Kiddie Rivvy!

2011-11-09 Thread newenglandbike
Lugged BMX!:)

Seriously this bike looks awesome. 

Regarding the market for kids bikes, many boys (and some precocious/daring 
young girls) do actually want BMX bikes*, which are 
usuallyhttp://www.wethepeoplebmx.de/bikes/trust 
CrMo http://www.sundaybikes.com/catalog/completes/, except for the 
expensive racing ones.They are simple and do not capture the rivendell 
aesthetic-  no gears, no racks, etc-   but tons of fun and an excellent 
introduction to riding without gadgets (not that racks/gears are gadgets).

-Matt


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[RBW] Re: Winter Cycling Wear!

2011-11-09 Thread newenglandbike
I wear wool socks, wool mittens, wool watch cap, and when it really gets 
cold (less than 20F) a wool balaclava and ski-goggles.A regular jacket 
does the trick for keeping my body warm, since my core temperature is never 
a problem when I'm either riding or pushing the bike through snow.   Also-  
not clothing obviously-  but studded tires are a central part of my winter 
ensemble.


-Matt

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[RBW] Re: Nitto Mini Rack and Riv All Rounder fork

2011-11-09 Thread newenglandbike
Hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like you might be able to 
straighten the support struts and it would reach.   

FWIW I have bent/straightened/re-bent a Nitto rack in the past to 
conform/fit to various bikes, with no issues.


-Matt

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[RBW] Re: Winter Cycling Wear!

2011-11-09 Thread newenglandbike
Hmm I dunno.   It's a slippery slope til one day you wake up wearing a 
Schwalbe 'Marathon Winter' codpiece (we've all been there!).   


-Matt

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Re: [RBW] Riv-riding motorcyclists?

2011-11-07 Thread newenglandbike
car = cage

:)

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