OK Yahoo would not take the message from a ryearns.
- Original Message -
From: r yearns [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, April 08, 2007 2:16 PM
Subject: moderator
Hey moderator guys,
Could one of you change my list email address from the lyearns
Hey moderator guys,
Could you change my list address. currently [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please
change to [EMAIL PROTECTED] that is change the l to a r.
Thanks
Ron Yearns
To listen to the show archives go to link
http://acbradio.org/handyman.html
or
Seems like I have a a spray can of it in the shop. But I remember the squirt
can variety and used a lot of it .
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Brice Mijares
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 04, 2007 9:12 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] myth busters
I am not sure of the ion maker as opposed to ozone producers. If they are
similiar, the same thing or totally different. I do know that high levels of
ozone will deteroite plastics and cause fabric to deteroite. There is some
discussion that ozone is harmful to the human lungs.. Maybe it is
You can use a mail set if the panels were nailed on with finish nails, which
have a small head with an indent on the top. A few raps with a hammer should
set them below the wood surface. If it is nail with a flat head common nail a
small flat ended punch can be used to countersink them.
Ron
walms up and cools down
- Original Message -
From: R S Enterprises
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 3:20 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] help needed
You can use a mail set if the panels were nailed on with finish nails, which
have a small
Teflon tape is a definate insulator. If the threads don't cut through enough
to make contact. Then light no workie.
Ronn
-
Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2007 8:38 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan]
I saw the price on Knockler and Constines on the Craig system and ordered a
doweling jig for seven bucks from Harbor Freight. Then later I was in a Clarks
tool store and asked about a pocket hole jig. The guy came out with a jig and
the bit apoligizing that the bit was almost as much as the
Well two thoughts come to mind. If the casters are the style with the metal
mounting plate is relatiave easy to lay it on a table and measure up from the
table to the top surfface of the caster wheel. If the style is such that a
stem is mounted into a hole then I would get a scrap of wood,
Odd i remember it the other way around. You can paint latex, water based, over
oil. Putting oil paint over latex doesn't work. Hope this lessens your
concern.
In a similar fashion one can put enamel over lacquer, but don't put laquer over
enamel. It tends to dislove it while it is wet.
as
opposed to the hot.
I have been told that in those days it was believed that was the safe way
to
wire.
I haven't been able to verify that fact.
Lenny
- Original Message -
From: R S Enterprises [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday
AAA. I can't speak for the knob and tube in the fair north land, but the
ones I have been involved with in the states have a grounded neutral. The sad
part that they used the same black wire for all the wiring or else it
discolored with age. Anyway it required me using a portable ground
Y E S if the power is on. Then it will hopefully blow the fuse you need to
unscrew.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: David Engebretson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 8:07 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Fuses and light bulbs
Oh
N O if wired properly the white wire which connects to the outer shell is
not hot.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: David Engebretson [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 8:41 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Fuses and light bulbs
Isn't
Basically what you have said is exactly how it was done in the old days. The
first row is nailed next to the wall on the face and at a 45 in the tongue.
Yes pilot holes both places and use a nail set for both places. Once a person
got the hang of it you would nail the rest of it without the
Just a note. The one I did the door warped out of shape so I had to take the
door off and lay it flat on the floor and snug the screws down kind of like
lug nuts on a car. Doing opposite ones back and forth and across.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Robert J. Moore
To:
I was listening to a home improvement show today and the host offered an
interesting way of testing the function of a tank hot water heater. First
you wait until the burner of elements have quit heating. Then go into the
bath tube with a five gallon bucket. Run the water until it gets hot
.
--
Larry Martin
Woodworking for the Blind
--joining the world of blind wood workers
-- Original message --
From: R S Enterprises [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I seem to remember someone a few weeks ago gave a very good description of
the operation of the roto
A suggestion comes to mind regardless of which lumber you use. If you cut a
rabbet in the front and back the end grain of the sides will be covered and you
can nail or screw through the front and back into the sides then you can slso
nail or screw through the sides into the front and rear.
.
-Original Message-
.From: R S Enterprises[EMAIL PROTECTED]
.Sent: 2/9/07 3:27:19 PM
.To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.comblindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
.Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Plywood question
.
.A suggestion comes to mind regardless of which lumber you use. If you cut
I seem to remember someone a few weeks ago gave a very good description of
the operation of the roto rule. I would like to talk with them via
telephone. If they would e-mail me off list with a phone number and best
time to call I would call them. as I have some ideas to discuss.
thanks
Ron
Make sure you also have and use the cleaner before the glue. Also plan your
work. There is not a lot of slack time to be repositioning the joints About a
quarter turn is what to figure on to distribute the glue. A full swab of the
glue or cleaner should be enough to make a complet swipe
Well in the old days the good carpenters laid the sub floor at a 45 degree
angle. This supposedly helped brace the joists and the biggest reason is so
they could lay the finish flooring, usually short oak, eight direction. With
some of those short boards trying to hit a joist was definately a
and not the new ones. He got no answer but had to treat the burned out ones
as hazardous material.
Did you ever run into anything like that?
Lenny
- Original Message -
From: R S Enterprises [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 12
I agree with others. No reason to tear up your floor. Patch the crack. The
reinforcing steel in the slab should keep it from getting real wide.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: tunecollector
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, February 02, 2007 10:28 AM
Subject:
I have personally gotten them as large as 3/4. On some valves you have to buy
a threaded valve and then get a thread to compression adapter. But it still
works fine and they get to make more money. It's the american way.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Dan Rossi
To:
and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
- Original Message -
From: R S Enterprises [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, January 27, 2007 11:26 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] framing nail gun
Hello folks,
I am thinking of purchasing a air powered nail
I will second Tom's advice , do any splicing inside the chassis. As an
electrician I have spliced many extension cords and such, BUT it is not legal
nor wise.. Inside the chassis is like a junction box, quite legal so go for
it.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Keith Christian
Hello folks,
I am thinking of purchasing a air powered nail gun to do framing work. The
information I saw in one catalog talked about the lesser cost ones having a
fixed angle and the most expensive said it could do three different angles..
The nails were also sold according to the degree of
chipboard differ from plywood?
is there more glue in it? Stronger, lighter?
I was thinking 2X8 for the size of the hole.
Right angles to the joists distributes the weight best?
Anything else I should know?
Thanks
On Tue, 23 Jan 2007, R S Enterprises wrote:
The ceiling joists should
The ceiling joists should be 2 by 6 normally. If they are part of a truss
rafter system they may be 2 by 4. If they are 1 by anything I would forget
storage unless very light stuff and not much. You should be able to walk on
the thicker joists anywhere. Try to distributee your weight on two
it. If you're courageous, taste it.
Geoff
- Original Message -
From: R S Enterprises
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 18, 2007 2:31 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] iron and copper pipes
Very good question. I am not sure I have an answer. Many tiems
My normal choice is drilling. If they happen to be pop rivets make sure to
punch out the old center nail.
If there is room the head or peaned side can be ground off.with a grinder. If
there is a washer under the pean I would chose that side since the rivet will
tend to protect the finish of
just to tag onto this If you buy a round head bolt and buy a acorn nut to put
on the end, then both ends will be smooth. you will need to cut off the excess
threads and file a little afterwards to remove burrs so the acron nut will
thread on, but I think you will be happy with the result.
Very good question. I am not sure I have an answer. Many tiems galvanized is
rougher inside or out, but I have also saw some really smooth. If one is
buying I guess you will be depending on the clerk or whoever might be with you.
In your existing house you are about limited to following
Ray gave us a couple of very good posts on copper and iron pipes. I would
like to add a couple of points from my mistakes.
Galvanized pipe is for water.
Black iron is for gas and air. You don't want the galvanizeed particles
coming off and blocking gas orfices or damaging air tools.
If you
Well I do not know how simple you want it but most basements are pretty low
ceilings. There froe you can touch the bulbs with your hand. If it is hot it
is on.
Crude, but you siad simple.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: carlhickson
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent:
This is good and simple also.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Rob Monitor
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2007 1:04 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] lights on or off
Hi, Why don't you get one of the light sockets that screws into the light
If you are using a router to cut dado's I like to lay both sides down flat like
on sawhorses. Clamp them so they are even on the ends. I then clamp the guide
over both sides and cut both left and right side in one pass. At least both
dado's line up from one side to the other. Note of course
Just a thought. Our city requires sheds to be anchored with trailer tie downs
screwed into the ground. Fence anchors screwed to the ground and fastened to
the shed with cable and clamps seems to work. Of course we are part of that
great tornado alley, but strong winds might shift some off
I experenced something similar. I had used latex varnish on a table top and my
sister put a cloth over it. After some time the finish took on the texture of
the cloth. I don't remember if it healed itself or not but I decided I would
not use latex on any top surfaces again.
Ron
-
If there was a photo eye problem you would not hear the motor trying to do
anything.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: rj [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2007 1:39 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] electric garage door problem
Look and see if
I guess I have done it both ways. If you will be trying to use the kitchen
during the time of construction I think you and spouse will be happyer if you
build them elsewhere and install as built units. The time you are out of a
sink etc will be much less, not even considering the mess.
May I say my chin is also used as a hold down on the mitre saw to be able to
measure to the blade. Just the thing to do isn't it.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Lenny McHugh
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2007 10:08 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan]
and the wall mounted members quite a
bit.
Oh well, nothing for it but to be patient.
Dale Leavens, Cochrane Ontario Canada
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Skype DaleLeavens
Come and meet Aurora, Nakita and Nanook at our polar bear habitat.
- Original Message -
From: R S Enterprises [EMAIL
The latex or rubber ones used by many to hand wash dishes can be used. If you
still feel some fear put on a pair of leather ones over the rubber. You can
also use a pair of well insulated pliers to grab onto the connectors and pull
the wires out that way.
- Original Message -
Well how safe do you want to be? The snug super thin Doctor exam glove would
have enough insulation value, but how well do they protect from puncture of
ends of wires or sharp corners. Hence the suggestion for leather outer
protectors as they are technically called. They make a fairly
Auto wiring is D C. On a tangent a cars alternater is a three phase A C
generator inside, but the rectifiers inside only let D C come out.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Robert j. moore
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2007 7:32 PM
Subject: RE:
Yes replacing a 15 amp breaker with a 20 has been done a lot just to prevent so
called nuisence tripping, but it still anin't right. Still not as bad as
putting the 30 amp time delay plug fuses on a no. 14 wire as I have witnessed
in many older homes. In my personal no. 14 wire should only be
The only palm nailer I ever used was the latter that was used with regular
nails. It was just a substitue for a hand held hammer and took several blows
to put nails in.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: carlhickson
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 07, 2007
If you have any thought and want to take these cabinets you number one don't
want to remove any tile. Also most cabinets screwed to the wall are considered
part of the house structure and are intended to pe left when moving. So no
don't fasten them to the wall. They asked about back splash.
This is a very idea to check first. I would usually remove the main cover and
check power on the breaker or fuse. Amazing how many breakers will be tripped
and not appear to be.
As for doing without it I don't see any hazard. If the light is flickering off
and on then you have sparking
Well thinking of the easy one. Once you have one stud found another should be
16 or 24 inches from it. If not drill the hole there. Using a wire stuck
through the hole feel around for the stud. Note it the wire is smaller than
the hole a ninety degree bend about 2 or 3 inches from the end
Well you did not say where this dent was. If you can get behind it as in
inside the car a block of wood and a hammer will work fine. If inside is not a
option sometimes a rubber sink plunger can do wonders. A lot depends on the
size of the dent. Water or oil on the rubber to insure a good
I don't know about the other countrries but in the U S the equipment ground
wire is bare in the romex style cable. In stranded flexible rubber cord it is
insulated green. And in the case of three way switches we use three wires plus
the eqquipment ground making a total of four. These being
Scott you seem to have a fair handle on the concept. When I taught jjunior
high general shop I explained to look at the three way switching configeration
as one big regular single pole switch. The two indentified or commmon terminal
as the two terminals on a regular switch. The power coming
Well Dale I agree with you . In my thirty plus years of wiring and such I
never found or saw a wauy to make sure two three way switches could determine
the light being on or off by a cetian position.. So throw in a couple of four
ways and scratch ones head through the skull deep into the gray
I have gotten postage stamps through my carrier as in through the mail, but
nothing on the web. I would be very surprised if the post office would
trust a bath room scales. I would suggest you contact the local post
office.
They do offer some one flat rate boxes and envelopes, but they are
Stretching my memory some. The pilot may be on when turned to pilot if this
heater has a flue vent. Old floor furnaces had a open pilot used a thermo;ile
and no electricity so the pilot had to be burning for there to be enough
electricity to operate the main gas valve. If the pilot blew out
I would think a piece of three quarters plywood will work as well as anything.
It should extend at least one inch higher than the maximum blade height if you
want to extend it to the left of the blade. Two bolts countersunk on the wood
side and drilled through the miter gauge should hold it
OK wire spacing. It looks like we are getting into three kinds of wiring. The
first is high voltage power lines that come to your transformers and those
mounted on poles are the only ones we are concerned. Most people will not have
ladders out close those poles and it will bake a pretty
Masking tape might work, but I would suggest mulital layers. Duct tape would
work a lot better.. I would suggest covering the inside also. There are lots
of cracks for cold air to go through.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: compgirl32
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent:
Dale,
For some reason a cork screw comes to mind.. I used one last weekend that had
a couple of arms that stayed up until the screw was all the way in than were
pried down against the neck of the bottle which reuslted in the cork being
raised. The bung rim may not be right for this style, but
Dale, very well said. Mostly the higher voltage allows the machinery to be
farther away from the source and use a smaller gage wire thereby lessing the
cost of installation. And if no one has noticed the last scrap copper wire I
sold went for $2.40 a pound. No wonder 12-2 wg romex is going
Well Tom,
It is hard to tell what is really on your knob. Myself I would try fine
sandpaper 220 to remove the green then 400 to buff anything left back
smooth. Then I would spray clear lacquer or clear enamel many, multiple
coats over it.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Tom Fowle
Well what I do is put a dolop of the blue r t v on my index finger just
back of the end, toward the palm. Then I spread it running the point of my
finger along the inside ridge or on one side of the gasket put the gasket
on. Then put the sealer on the other side of the gasket then attach
I purchased my Zircon brand level at my local hardware/lumber yard.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Dale Alton [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 6:26 PM
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] audible level
Where can I purchase one?
Dale
[Non-text
Bill,
There is also a thin, almost veneer, birch stripping that comes in rolls of
various width. It has glue on it you put it on the edge and run a hot
cloths iron over it which melts the glue. After it sets the excess is cut
off with a utility knife, razor blade or sanded. It actually works
habitat.
- Original Message -
From: R S Enterprises [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, October 28, 2006 10:29 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Rewiring a House
As one person has mentioned the surface raceway is one solution. Let's
look
at traditional
I am guessing you have tried a epoxy mix. I know it doesn't work on all
plastics. Is there room perhaps with counter boring to install a pop or
normal rivet?
Ron
- Original Message -
From: tunecollector [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, October 29, 2006
Yep we had a Tif tic tracer at the shop and it worked well. Lots of ways
to skin this cat.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Tom Fowle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2006 10:17 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] identifying
I don't believe the critter will cause any damage to the piping, nor will
there be a danger of sewer gas getting into the house.. Hopefully it will
not get further down into the drain then you face a posibility of the drain
sttopping up. How to get it out? Good question, some pipe
Yes the best route is to disconnect the old wiring at the main panel box and
cut it back everywhere you run into it. Check the price of scrap copper and
new wire and you will probably consider pulling out as much as possible to
sell as scrap.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Jennifer
Hello folks,
I was listening to the handy show and Phil mentioned there was no way for a
blind person to tell which wire was the hot one. or rather what color a wire
was Well one can put the talking multi meter to use. Please note a audial
continuity tester and or a 110 volt buzzer can also
later.
-Original Message-
From: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of R S Enterprises
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2006 1:39 PM
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [BlindHandyMan] identifying black and white wires etc.
Hello folks,
I was listening
Brice,
There are major and many small ones that specilize in fire and security
alarms. I believe most residental systems are just a series of
interconnected alarms without any central control station. If that is your
case most electricians should be able to service them for you. If alll are
Bill,
What ise is a soda straw or small diameter flexible hose. Insert it into
the fill hole start blowing into it while lowering. When you hear bubbles,
stop and mark with tape. Next time if you goe below the tape line you need
some. Do your directions call for a oil change after the first
Just a thought or two. It almost sounds like you have a standing pilot with
a relight system. Funny downdrafts or such can blow out a pilot. Sometimes
there electronic or thermo lockouts that keep some things from working. if
things don't relight in a specified time.I would keep an eye
So am I understanding correctly that the nuts turned off clockwise as in
left handed threads. They should have stamped with a L or made it clear in
the manual.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: rj [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Handyman blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 26,
Sounds logical. Remember blow the air out
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Tom Fowle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 26, 2006 12:42 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Dipsticks
Ron,
Now that straw for dipstick is darned clever and
I have made a couple of roller stands using plumbing pipe for the roller a
discarded fan pedastal and yes was a little unstable. I found a scrap car
brake rotor put down over the upright support so it rested on the base put
enough weight down on the base it is now quite stable.
Ron
-
My experience is that McMaster has more varity in parts, fasteners and such
and there tools are quality but more costly than Harbor Freight. Prrobably
get what you pay for. Don't get me wrong I buy a lot of stuff from Harbor
Freight.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
My experience has been the brackets cost less than the snap in brackets and
then you still have to buy the wall standreds. The wall pieces also hold
the shelves away from the wall unless you notch for them and the premade
shelves arn't always the right width for the snap in brackets. With the
for the suggestion. I've tried this source and the valves are too
large for my purpose.
- Original Message -
From: R S Enterprises
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, October 12, 2006 10:07 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] tiny shutoff valves
Other possibilities
Well all the ends I have replaced have been on Fords, but I think others are
similiar. I would not attempt to work on one without removing the tire and
having the car secured on a jackstand. The tape being wrapped on the rod
end is a fairly good idea. Some sighted people count the number of
Might I suggest that the tankless insides will likely also get mineral
deposits. Anyone know for sure or does the flowing water keep them from
forming on the insides?
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Lee A. Stone [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September
Well Dale has a very novel and workable solution. I kind of prefer using
some kind of continuity tester. Even just a buzzer or bell wired in a
battery circuit will work. The round or u shaped prong is as others have
said the safety equipment grounding wire. Of the two straight prongs the
wider
You did not say how many shelves or what length you were wanting to end up
with. If you were say wanting shelves about two foot long then the smart
thing would be to saw it in the middle making two four foot boards and then
cut each in half. This way the cuts are pretty well balanced each time.
Well Kevin,
I am hardly anytype of chimney expert. If the leaking is happening inside
the chimmney I would suspect the cap may have blown off and depending on the
size of the opening and construction. Stainless steel versus galvanized
steel it might be as pricy as you were quoted. I agree that
Sadly enough I have saw similiar fixtures. Different ones were put together
differently. If it is all painted up options become limited.
Well you or your wife probably will not like this one. Unless you really
want to repair, rewire these for the antique value the most expediant thing
to do is
The make a variety of guides the easiest being a 1 x 2 or 1 x 4 clamped down
with two c clamps and use the left hand to make sure the circular saws left
table edge runs tight against the guide board. Working slow and carefully
you can make a straighter cut than pros using their eyes. The secret
Saw horse height depends a lot on what you are using them for and your
height. I would not go less than 24 inches, but likely 30 inches will be
ablout right. length of the cross board usally works ok at 36 inches. And
for what it is worth I have never sawed the bottom of the legs at a angle.
I do not know about his, but the one I spliced was a ssmall coax cable so it
was pretty easy to keep the polarity correct, but so much for shielding at
that section.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Tom Fowle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 16,
Interesting I had not noticed this resistor. I'll do some careful resistance
checks next time I am in one of these buggers. Additionaly ceiling fans
also use a two section capacitor so section a alone, or b alone, or both are
connected into the winding circuit for speed change.
Ron
- Original
Yep that can happen with the newer imports. In that case you drill out the
rivets and reinstall 1/8 inch all thread with nuts and cut off the excess
rod after installed.
More trouble than it is worth? Maybe, but what is my time worth when I am
working for myself. Particulary when I am repairing
Ahh, I think that is normally referred to as 60 hertz or 60 cycle.
Ron
- Original Message -
From: Jay Williams [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 16, 2006 11:43 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Fan maintenance
Your ceiling fan is running
A couple of thoughts on this. I have used 4 x 8 sheets in my daughters
attic for storage. I rip them into 2 x 8 pieces which fit up most holes or
you need to enlargge the hole to this size or you will not be able to get
much of anything up there. In my garage I have made a hinged access door in
I may be wrong. Heavan forbid, but isn't saving stuff part of being a
handyperson. We don't want to be running to the store to get the proper
repair part. I want it on the premises so I can respond quickly to the
emergency repair. Well maybe a little far in explaination but a large
variety of
-
From: R S Enterprises
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, August 04, 2006 4:36 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Accessible OBD-II unit
I am not familiar with the OBD II equipment. For car problems a good
digital multimeter allong with some code reader will get you goiing
99 matches
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