>
> There are still plenty of enthusiastic, younger folks who are most
>> definitely into running the "genuine old hardware" - it's just that
>>
> this
> list hasn't traditionally offered much of a draw for these users. As
>>
> noted,
> the list was formed by and for users of the classic-era
On Wed, 12 Oct 2016, jim stephens wrote:
On 10/12/2016 9:47 PM, Jerry Kemp wrote:
any chance that it could be scanned, then shared that way?
I think this manual should be scanned for posterity but cannot do that.
Something like what is on this page?
http://www.solivant.com/sun100/
> So I've got the machine being quiet now (no buzz). And I've confirmed the
> unit does
> not try to engage the motor unless switched to Line or Local mode. The
> second you
> turn the switch, the motor does about a 1/4 turn and then there's a visible
> spark from
> the bottom of the fuse
Brad,
Sounds like you're on the path to ultimate success - keep at it, and you'll
get to the heart of it.
There's no better guarantee for success than simply refusing (aka failing)
to give up at any time. Take needed breaks, review docs, listen to
suggestions - but never, ever quit until it's
I don't know that Digital ever had a Unibus disk controller for ST412
interface disks, but were there any third party controllers? I'm in
need of disk controllers for PDP-11/40 and think that might be an
option given the availability of reliable MFM disk emulators.
-chuck
On 10/14/2016 7:29 PM, Tony Aiuto wrote:
I used most of the SEL/Gould/Encore machines. The 32/77 was an original
SEL design, from before Gould bought them. It ran MPX-32, their real-time
OS. TTL based. The 32/87 was ECL, in a much bigger cabinet. They made
slight hardware changes to the 32/77
On 10/14/2016 09:11 PM, william degnan wrote:
On Thu, Oct 13, 2016 at 11:31 AM, Joseph Zatarski
wrote:
It's too bad it's out in Australia, I qualify for the top priority of the
list, 'under 21 years of age'
Especially this is too bad: "Anything not sold, swapped or
On Thu, Oct 13, 2016 at 8:25 PM, wrote:
> I have a collection of DEC items available for sale, swap or giveaway.
>
> They are mostly VAX or MicroVAX items, as well as a few PDP-11 items.
>
> These are in Melbourne, Australia. I appreciate this may not be of much
> interest
I see you didn't bother to check the clutches. You'd have found that the
clutch that reset the keyboard could be released.
The buzzing may also be related to your fuse blowing the supply
that feeds the receiving coil may have a shorted diode or capacitor.
That would both explain the fuse and
On 10/14/2016 04:03 PM, Dave Wade wrote:
-Original Message-
From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-boun...@classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of Paul
Berger
Sent: 14 October 2016 23:49
To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
Subject: Re: IBM 370 Hard Drive
On 2016-10-14
I used most of the SEL/Gould/Encore machines. The 32/77 was an original
SEL design, from before Gould bought them. It ran MPX-32, their real-time
OS. TTL based. The 32/87 was ECL, in a much bigger cabinet. They made
slight hardware changes to the 32/77 and 32/75 and released them as the
PowerNode
On Thu, Oct 13, 2016 at 11:31 AM, Joseph Zatarski
wrote:
> It's too bad it's out in Australia, I qualify for the top priority of the
> list, 'under 21 years of age'
>
> Especially this is too bad: "Anything not sold, swapped or given away by
> early December will likely go
On Thu, Oct 13, 2016 at 4:12 PM, jim stephens wrote:
> If these are the connectors that can have keys inserted between every
> connector, the small difference would be significant as those would not
> align between a metric connector and an English (inch) board. The
>
Got a little further. The keyboard was definitely jammed. I pulled the
carriage over to the right and noted there's a bar on the left side that a
piece of metal attached to the carriage belt hits, I assume triggering
something. Doesn't work.. the bar is stuck. At any rate, I put the metal
So I've got the machine being quiet now (no buzz). And I've confirmed the unit
does not try to engage the motor unless switched to Line or Local mode. The
second you turn the switch, the motor does about a 1/4 turn and then there's a
visible spark from the bottom of the fuse holder. So I'm
> -Original Message-
> From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-boun...@classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of Paul
> Berger
> Sent: 14 October 2016 23:49
> To: General Discussion: On-Topic and Off-Topic Posts
>
> Subject: Re: IBM 370 Hard Drive
>
> On 2016-10-14 7:42 PM, Jason Howe
Came across this in the local craigslist today:
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/sop/5820161303.html
I don't know if this is of interest to the Big Iron IBM guys, but if
there's any interest from folks not in the Seattle Area, I'm happy to
help faciliate.
--Jason
On Fri, 14 Oct 2016, jim stephens wrote:
There are a number of 1970 postings, which clearly were sent with 0 time
stamp values, and accepted by the mailing agent and archived with the 1970
time frame. They are not all the same in each snapshot.
Appreciate your capture of these.
Sometimes
Okay so, a bit more playing around. The buzzing stops if I rotate the motor.
And then after rotating the motor if I power on and off, it just makes a single
click. Every so many turns though it starts buzzing again.
So maybe we need to get back to the motor and why it's not doing anything?
Think I understand.. I didn't have a clothespeg.. I took some heavy cardboard
paper and folded it and then stuffed into the space between the cylinder and
the back of the magnet. Still buzzes.
-Original Message-
From: cctalk [mailto:cctalk-boun...@classiccmp.org] On Behalf Of Brad H
> I found it. It`s this thing:
>
> https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4pq0-BHd2x6Und4QVJQdGoyaFE
That is the receive magnet. An electromagnet coil that is supposed to be
turned on an off by the incoming serial bits The complex camshaft arrangement
samples the state of that in the middle of
Watch out doing a hard common of the grounds. It may not turn out
pretty. Also make sure there is no VCC routed up the cable.
thanks.
You might well get by with a normal serial DB-9 and some creative cable
making if memory serves. At least the 1194 stuff is only 5 signals.
Some of the
I found it. It`s this thing:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B4pq0-BHd2x6Und4QVJQdGoyaFE
I can actually see it trying to engage when I plug in. That is *definitely*
where the noise is from. If I rotate the motor with it on, the noise changes
depending on where the rotation is at.
It would actually be coming from the motor not the reader. The motor for
the papertape reader is either in the pedestal (if your ASR is on one) or
somewhere in the UCC-6 (the power supply). You have to follow the cable
that comes from the reader along the rim of the chassis.
B
On Fri, Oct 14,
> Good question. I only thought motor because it seemed like the noise was
> from back there. And when I put a plastic tool against the outer casing, I
> could feel a vibration. But now I'm wondering about that paper tape reader..
> when I listened to the noise again it did kinda sound like it
Good question. I only thought motor because it seemed like the noise was from
back there. And when I put a plastic tool against the outer casing, I could
feel a vibration. But now I'm wondering about that paper tape reader.. when I
listened to the noise again it did kinda sound like it might
Hi, although somewhat off topic, unless I'm reprogramming antique computers :)
...
I was wondering if anyone might know where I could find an A/B switchbox for a
10-pin JTAG cable?
(An old-fashioned mechanical switch would work for my purposes, but I don't
want to have to try to build one :)
stupid question - you're certain the motor is making the buzz and not the
reader motor or somewhere on the UCC-6?
Bill
On 10/14/2016 10:32 AM, Richard Schauer wrote:
I'm searching the alt.folklore.computers group (on Google; my ISP no
longer runs a NNTP server) and I can't find Bill's initial invitation
message. I find a later one from June 1997, cross-posted to lots of
comp.sys.* groups, advertising
> Check that all the clutches lock up. You can do this by hand. If
>
> they drag it can stall the motor.
It may be worth removing the belt from the motor :
If an air deflector is fitted over the fan remove it by loosening
thw 2 screws between the fan and the motor and removing the
screw on
On Fri, 14 Oct 2016, Noel Chiappa wrote:
do go back that far, so it doesn't look like we're missing much. The earliest
ones there are from 13 March 1997, so we may be missing a few, but not many;
the first posts are clearly 'hi, here's who am I' kind of things, apparently
in response to an
On Fri, Oct 14, 2016 at 10:33 AM, Noel Chiappa wrote:
> > From: Jason Howe
>
> > I really really want to aquire a PDP-11 ... Given the price of these
> > things in the world right now...
>
> If you're willing to live with a QBUS machine, and not a UNIBUS one,
Check that all the clutches lock up. You can do this by hand. If
they drag it can stall the motor.
Rotate and push on the tab on each. You have to hold the one
from the input coil as the last one. The tension from rotating should
hold them all.
Always start it in local to reduce the load.
If
> From: Jason Howe
> I really really want to aquire a PDP-11 ... Given the price of these
> things in the world right now...
If you're willing to live with a QBUS machine, and not a UNIBUS one, it
doesn't necessarily take a mountain of money - if you're patient and wait for
deals.
> > "There are plenty of people who play the 8-bit home micro games they
> > grew up playing, but many of them (at least the ones I know of) run them
> > on a PC-based emulator not the real hardware."
>
> You don't really think that retro video gaming is the singular, or even the
> primary focus
Spurred by the conversation about the state of the hobby, micro vs mini and the
relevance of this list to both classes, I thought I’d articulate what motivates
me to those not into the micro scene.
I am a micro guy. I was a kid in the late 70s early 80s so that is where my
passion lies.
what I just posted on comp.sys.xerox
I probably should just email Don Woodward or Dave Curbow.
On 10/13/16 11:03 AM, Huge wrote:
> Has *no-one* implemented an XNS time-server on, say, Linux?
>
There are Unix implementations of XNS from way back, but as far as I know
no one has moved
On Fri, 14 Oct 2016, Pete Turnbull wrote:
That's right - except it was started in 1997 and run by Bill Whitson at the
University of Washington - and I joined a few months after it started. Same
experience as Tony.
I normally don't post much here; I read everything, but I don't do much
with
I have been given an lot of SEL software and documentation, along with a
simulator
Now, I need to get off my butt and put it all on line.
Thank you for saving the system, Bob.
On 10/13/16 8:34 PM, Bob Rosenbloom wrote:
> On 10/13/2016 9:01 AM, Rick Bensene wrote:
>>> I'm curious what the
Hi Guys
Having established a good stock of panels. I now have got
a little time to move my PDP-8/i project along a bit.
The front I already had . A kind list member let me have a lights board.
I built and and tested it
It is compatible with the original /i in form, fit and
The start cap on mine was meant to be under the metalwork that holds the single
fuse at the rear of the printer on the left side (looking from the front of the
printer).
But don't be surprised if there isn't one. Try the turning by hand first...
it's quite possible one of the control bars
On 2016-10-13 20:00, william degnan wrote:
I may have some software that is missing from that site, if so I will image
and upload will let you know
Thanks!
" I'm assuming it must be round.. although directly under the fuse is a
little black box connected to it.
I note when I plug it in on Line sometimes there's a single metallic clack
from the PSU area and sometimes it's multiple..lioe someone's operating a
telegraph."
The start/run caps can be
On 10/13/2016 9:39 PM, tony duell wrote:
Actually, it wasn't. I have been a member almost from day 1, and my first
question to the list founder (I think it was Selam) was 'Are minicomputers
welcome on the list, or is it micros only?'
Earliest I could find (I think)
From ard12 at
Yeah I'm sure we must have bad cap(s) here. I think pretty much everything is
original on this thing. I've no idea how old it is.
I'll have to read through the manuals and figure out where the cap is. I'm
assuming it must be round.. although directly under the fuse is a little black
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