My windows don't leak but they are significantly 'crazed' (?) so that they
admit light but it is very diffused--something like the light you might get
thru a shower door.
Is there a solution to cleaning them up, short of replacement, with some kind
of chemical or rubbing compound?
Charlie Nels
I think slow turns are good for at least 2 reasons:
1. It gives the trimmer an easier time to get the sail in before needing a
winch.
2. Too fast a turn usually is slow since a) the rudder acts like a brake and b)
it can lose proper
water flow over it if turned too fast which requires the flow
A minor point and probably not significant regarding speed thru the water but I
think you want to line the blades up to be in a vertical plane as opposed to
horizontal plane.
In the vertical plane, they present virtually no cross sectional area to the
boat direction, whereas in the horizontal
Sounds correct--I just was defining a plane differently than you.
For example, if there was a piece of paper clutched by the blades, the paper
would be held in an approximate
vertical plane when folded to minimize drag.
Martec's instructions 1) keep the lower blade from falling down and 2) proj
One idea not mentioned yet, perhaps because it is too obvious, is constant
headsail adjustment, assuming the main is set properly.
When I am not close-hauled (upwind or reaching), I steer a course angle or
position on the horizon and have the head sail trimmer
CONSTANTLY adjusting the headsail
My 36XL dose not have a dodger installed so if I get caught in the rain, I get
wet. That's OK with me since I am a fair weather inshore sailor/racer anyway.
OTOH, for local deliveries or short distance cruising in the Carolina sounds in
the summer, I often use my bimini.
It just fits under the
This is getting confusing.
Before I knew about the 'structural' aspect of the windows of my 1995 C&C XL, a
local yard replaced them with what looks like acrylic at least
partially held in place with screws, the heads of which I can see on the
outside of the windows. This was about 10-12 years a
I suggest the used route unless you plan to use the dinghy a lot.
If you decide on new, I'd consider the propane powered Luhrs (sp?) at about
$1000-light and no fuel hassles.
Charlie Nelson
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
From: David via CnC-List
To: CNC CNC
Cc: David
Sent
A friend of mine recently got a double whammy because of an oil leak in the pan:
He was motoring down the ICW from his home port when the engine slowly died and
would not start.
Since he was heading for Cape Lookout, NC in July, he expected a lot of
motoring so he had checked his oil level
be
I will second doing anything but trying to grind down Plexus. My Lewmar hatch
handles were glued with it and after 18 years, 2 handles
were inadvertently broken away from the Plexiglas hatch by misadventures of my
crew.
I would have ground the handles to dust before removing the old Plexus from
Hey listers;
We have two reasonably active PHRF fleets on the Neuse River in NC that are
about 3 hours apart by boat.
In an effort to get boats to move from one venue to another (increasing the
fleet size in each open but club run regatta), we have been using
a simple PHRF scoring scheme that
Thanks Dennis--these are options we may consider further.
Charlie
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
From: Dennis C. via CnC-List
To: CnClist
Cc: Dennis C.
Sent: Tue, Dec 1, 2015 12:57 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Club Team scoring with PHRF
Hmmm, interesting situation but
If this quote was from a marine operation, I would at least check the price
from a local fabric/upholsterer.
This will reduce the marine 'premium' at least.
Charlie Nelson
36 XL/kcb
North Carolina
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
To: cnc-list
No two blade prop will do very well in reverse although I would get a geared
one so that you can be sure that it opened.
If you race, the lowest drag 2 blade demonstrated by tests in Yachting magazine
was a Gori--which I have used for several years without problems.
It takes a few seconds ru
I was not referring to feathering props. As I understand them, they are
designed to be about equal in forward or reverse.
My former Max-Prop 3 blade feathering prop was excellent and relatively quickly
got the boat going in reverse.
Any geared folding 2-blade prop will get a boat moving in rev
I had my Yanmar 30GM replaced about 10 years ago with a Beta-28--it fit
physically and was the proper power for my 36XL.
The yard did a really good job of sound insulating the engine compartment with
the plastic lined 1/2 inch foam--previously
there was no insulation.
A year or 2 later I repl
engines fan/alternator belt?
Calypso’s Perk 4-108 belts kick off a dust/soot like debris that gathers on the
nearby sound insulation.
Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Charlie
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Mo
My 36 XL/kcb was delivered with a relatively massive table bolted to the the
cabin sole which had 2 fold down leaves.
This table sort of wrapped around the bast so that when the leaves opened, the
table surface was centered fore and aft
and athwartships so that 4+ people could sit around it alt
eryone, discuss. Lol
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Cold on shores of Lake Michigan
Sent from AOL Mobile Mail
On Friday, January 1, 2016 Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
wrote:
My 36 XL/kcb was delivered with a relatively massive table bolted to the the
cabin sole which had 2 fold down leaves.
This tabl
Have a look at small SS mast steps--mounted on the ends of my genoa tracks and
forward of my former baby stay track. You just mount them
with the underside facing forward so that the supports form a 3 pronged SS, low
profile 'cage' that forces any lines up and over them.
Charlies Nelson
Water
I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in
pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is
recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating
power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the underside
I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in
pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is
recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating
power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the underside
I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in
pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is
recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating
power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the underside
I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in
pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is
recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating
power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the underside
I, along with the yard, need to re-bed some deck hatches and rails, etc. I
prefer butyl tape since it works without the mess of the stuff that comes out
of a tube plus it remains flexible if you get the proper 'brand'.
Besides checking my local RV store, what are the lister's recommendations f
Thanks for all the responses on butyl tape--looks like the tape to use is the
Bed-It, although I wish it was 1 inch wide.
Charlie Nelson
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
To: cnc-list
Cc: cenelson
Sent: Tue, Feb 9, 2016 10:30 am
Subject: Stus
I understood, mostly from comments on this list, that using an A-sail on a
displacement hull and sail plan rigged for a mast head spinnaker was not
recommended, except perhaps for short-handed racing.
Is this incorrect, out-of date or still true?
Charlie Nelson
C&C 36XL
New Bern, NC
cenel
I don't know how they work in action on a boat. However, they can be made
relatively easily from single braid line (IIRC) using videos and instructions
from the web.
I came across several of the above as I searched the web for splicing an eye
loop in double braid line. Of course you may not 'g
If your spreaders are in-line (not angled aft), its use is primarily to keep
the non-telephone pole mast from pumping in serious seas or chop. Disconnect it
unless there is usually lots of chop where you race.
My 1995 C&C 36 XL/ckb had an adjustable baby stay with in-line spreaders and my
form
I used a local loft (North) who took the measurements on the boat only after I
agreed to the sale with a 50% deposit. I was a little surprised but I had
decided that his price compared to the other local lofts was competitive. The
other local lofts gave me prices just based on the generic rig s
I heard from my yard manager yesterday that there is now a new chemical spray
that when used with care and kept moist while it works with a wet rag will
allow the removal of things attached with 5200. He claimed this was then the
best adhesive to use for windows and other deck hardware instead
I replaced my Max-Prop 3 blade feathering with a Gori ~ 4 years ago and have
zero issues since. The Gori was tested best/lowest drag of any folding prop by
Yachtworld (?). According to that test, its drag was almost too low to be
measured compared to the other props. Of course, I mostly club rac
I have begun the process of replacing the ~ 15 year old fixed windows on Water
Phantom. They have been leaking for awhile and are severely crazed--so much as
to be opaque.
Interestingly, when they were replaced I also replaced all the Lewmar opening
ports and none of these ports show any craz
Another alternative to consider is something like my 36 XL/kcb was rigged by
the factory or the Harve de Grace yard--not sure which.
4 of the relatively low-load control lines rigged on Water Phantom (Cunningham,
vang, topping lift and outhaul) can be run to cam-cleats like the Harken 150
whi
I had all of Lewmar Ocean series ST winches (6) knurled at a local machine shop
several years ago.
I just took the outside parts to them and with their help decided on a knurl
that appeared to be a good compromise between
grip and tearing up the line.
Cost me $30 each and the grip is still gr
I used to use split rings to reduce sail wear. The yard rigger who is pretty
knowledgeable replaced them all when he tuned the rig,
claiming that cotter pins are best.
Don't know if it is truth or historical lore but I have stayed with the pins
since then.
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 3
Aniother stupid oil trick!
Pumped oil out of my Beta 25, changed filter, added what seemed like more oil
than should have been necessary and started her up.
Ran fine until oil pressure alarm sounded, shut down, checked level, seemed low
so added another quart or so (figured the oil filter was
My 36 XL never had a plate--only a similar decal.
I had a local sign maker make duplicates and install for less than 1 boat buck.
Not as classy as a plate but it copied the original exactly.
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C&C 36 XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
Fro
Just a thought Edd:
I repowered my 13,600 lb displacement C&C 36 XL/kcb (1995) with a Beta 25 after
the Yanmar 30 GM?
blew a head gasket at about 11 years of use (operator/system error!).
It was a perfect match as well and all-in it was about $10K including install,
etc.
I bring it up only be
I managed to crush a 2" x 4" portion of my aft deck on both sides recently.
I have cleaned out the balsa core and removed the fiberglass/gel coat pieces on
top and need to fill it in (its about 1 inch deep) and then, eventually, cover
it with the Kiwi Grip that
was on it pre-crushing.
I have
Josh Muckley
Sent: Thu, Jul 9, 2015 2:17 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Deck repair
If your going to kiwi grip it anyway, why worry about gelcoat?
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jul 9, 2015 2:09 PM, "Charlie Nelson via CnC-List" < cnc-list
ist-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charlie
Nelson via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, July 09, 2015 3:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject: Stus-List Deck repair
I managed to crush a 2" x 4" portion of my aft deck on both sides recently.
On the way to and from our racing area, my Beta-25 with only 390 hours on it
was running fine and then it dies.
It started up right away, ran for a few minutes then died again.
We sailed out of the channel for about 10 minutes, started it up again with no
problems and it ran for 20-30 minutes
Some older furlers required that you remove the drum to get to the end of the
line to undo the knot.
IIRC there were 4 hex-head screws that held my original drum together (Mark 3?)
which had to be removed to reach the knot. The line was threaded
thru the drum and the knot was buried behind/insi
My Beta 28 HP diesel, circa 2001, has developed a sea water leak on the engine
side/aft 'end' of the Jabasco (I think) pump which is driven directly by the
engine,
not by a belt. This engine has a primary coolant which is cooled by this water
pump circulating sea water thru a heat exchanger. BT
If anyone has older aluminum tanks, a newer, legal fitting can also be welded
on the old tank--I think I paid $20 to have a proper valve
welded on my aluminum tank a few years ago.
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com
___
Em
I used to leave the shore power/battery charger on all the time to keep the
batteries topped off and to make up for occassional bilge pump cycling.
Then one day I got to the boat and the bilge pump was not working and the
batteries were dead. It likely had been on for some time since the pump s
One of my crew 'wrenched' the inside handle from my Lewmar low profile hatch.
The handle, which has no outside part, looks like it was 'glued' on to
the acrylic which has a non-circular shape slightly recessed into the acrylic,
presumably to accept the corresponding handle base. The turning
par
I have a '34' centerboard version, which was an option in the early 90s on the
34 series (including the +, the XL and the R).
I think the board design was adopted or copied from the 37 which was an earlier
model but not available new in 1993 (or was out of my price range) one or the
other!
I mounted a Garmin 543/6? at the binnacle--it has a wrap-around type bracket
which holds it at any angle and which is screwed to a base of starboard
spanning the binnacle guard.
It stays down below until I take the boat out.
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com
I have played with doing something to my 36XL to reduce crew requirements plus
to make it easier to cruise shorthanded.
My question is how many crew do you need to fly it when racing (vs the
symmetrical chute)?
Also, do you think the PHRF change was fair and what did it cost in parts?
Charl
I hope some of the racers among the list might want to chime in on the
following.
Before the start this weekend, 2 boats 'barged' down the line, one immediately
to windward and starboard of me (WP) who I protested immediately after the
incident, hailed that I(WP) protested him (NC) and flew th
ORT CT
On Oct 20, 2014, at 10:36, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
wrote:
I hope some of the racers among the list might want to chime in on the
following.
Before the start this weekend, 2 boats 'barged' down the line, one immediately
to windward and starboard of me (WP) who I protes
5-10 yeas ago I had the sole replaced in my 36XL/kcb with a teak and holly
veneer on a plywood substrate (I think--I know it was not solid teak and holly.
The old sole was removed, used for a template and new ones cut, etc. and
installed for about $2000.
Initially I asked the yard for the co
My windows were replaced by a local yard about 10-12 years ago before I was
paying attention to this list. There appear to be screws
involved whose heads I can see from the outside--probably screwed thru the
windows to the fiberglass in the 'frame'--but I am not sure.
Some of them are beginnin
I'll 2nd the Kiwi Grip--easy to put on and the 'grip' can be varied easily, if
desired, by the roller 'nap' and technique of rolling.
I had the yard put it on after my crew removed the hardware--first time for the
yard doing it--and they were impressed.
No issues yet going into my 3rd year wi
Considering this is a one-time job, I would forget about any laminated wood
product in a marine environment.
I used 1" solid red oak, epoxy sealed, as backing plates for my Lewmar primary
winches (#50s?). Much stiffer for its thickness than starboard, it cannot
delaminate, lighter than alumin
I replaced all my original low profile Lewmar hatches more than 10 years ago
with the same models from Lewmar. The lenses and frames are still in great
condition (no crazing on lenses, frames are still intact, etc.,).
I have re-bedded some of them over the years (butyl tape) and replaced a han
Probably need to drill a hole thru the deck--on my 1995 XL/kcb the guard just
stopped at the deck--no holes underneath the SS tubbing.
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb
Oriental, NC
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
To: C&C List
Cc: Edd
Be careful that whatever you do with the epoxy including adding fillers, etc.
that what you are using it on, in or about has sufficient area to absorb the
heat produced as the epoxy 'kicks off'.
I build a wooden sailing dinghy using the 'stitch and glue (epoxy) and got
pretty good with the stu
Except perhaps for the injector pump to cylinder hoses (which are likely
metal), any diesel fuel hose of the correct size will likely work fine.
A word of warning--these hoses are notorious for variations between the OD and
ID so do not assume that if your hose is marked 5/16" on the outside t
Yes for upwind work, if your mast is relatively thin and light.
IMHO, no movement otherwise until you are running downwind when they get
disconnected and run to the shrouds--your shrouds should be fine for any
reaching without the checks.
I would keep backstay tensioned upwind (more in highe
Thanks for your reply Brad.
My cover is screwed in place with more screws than I care to remove. However,
it has one or two semi-circular limber holes on the port and starboard sides
for water to flow away--none that I recall on forward part of it. I can believe
that without these holes, water
I have a similar pole from Forte, not Forespar, with line control. I chose it
instead of Forespar (many years ago) because it cost less (but still at least a
boat buck, the surface was not as slippery (you can see/feel the carbon fibers)
and they made one of the tubes for it match the same diam
I built an adjustable frame for mine from PVC pipe for about $15. This allows
it to more directly face the sun and the frame collapses so I can store it,
with the panel attached, below.
FWIW--it took less than an hour to build and glue the frame. Go the idea from a
you tube video.
Charlie N
You might want to have a machine shop do the bending--I doubt the usual home
workshop tools will do the job. Perhaps if you apply heat you might get it done
but bending a 3/8" piece of SS
is not for the faint of heart!
I always take such SS jobs to a shop--they can do it easily and usually f
Definitely, Bed-it is different--much stickier and flexible than most other
varieties.
I found out the hard way that the butyl tape I got somewhere else (travel
trailer store or on-line?) was much less flexible than Bed-it.
It may have been dried out or it just was made that way. Anyway, if
All PHRF racing on the Pamlico Sound in NC use PHRF with TOT.
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
From: Pete Shelquist via CnC-List
To: cnc-list
Cc: Pete Shelquist
Sent: Thu, Jul 14, 2016 3:30 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wednesday Night racing - now
My rigger uses a portable right angle drill for hoisting him/crew up the mast.
He likes the Milwaukee brand for ~$300-400. He used it to remove my roller
furling recently with his crew hoisting him skyward with the drill and a #30
Lewmar 2 spped ST winch. He was afraid the winch would no give t
Having lost my C&C 36 XL/kcb (1995) centerboard, I know way more than I'd like
to know about them--at least mine.
Yours was a different design (based on your photos) than mine, which is more
elliptical in shape and which was mostly lead at about 920 lbs.
Drawings from the Kingston Maritime Mu
Same experience in my JAM fleet with 30-40 footers--barn doors win every
time--in spite of advice to sail a hotter angle and jibe.
Can't figure out whether the advice is BS or I sail off at an angle where the
extra distance is not made up by the faster speed and the subsequent jibes.
Until I
On my Beta 28, the pump bearings (on the shaft behind the impeller) also have
O-rings on them on both sides of the bearing and these can leak, especially if
a bad bearing has 'scored' the shaft.
In my case, IIRC the shaft was scored enough that the entire pump needed
replacement--the shaft co
FWIW, I have had a few groundings with my board almost all the way up (about 6"
of board exposed--I do not grind it up completely within the trunk since with
sea critters, it can get stuck there) and many more with it down of course!
The only time I saw keel damage was when I hit a submerged c
I can attest to the difficulty of setting a Fortress unless set in relatively
calm conditions, even with a soft mud bottom.
It was one of 2 anchors I used when I anchored out in a local creek during
Hurricane Irene's visit to NC in 2011. I set it and a bigger Danforth (~50 lbs)
in calm water a
I am considering doing my entire interior in some kind of varnish/urethane/etc.
Currently, and as delivered, none of the teak below (except the sole) has had
anything but oil added to the teak--either straight linseed oil or lemon
scented linseed oil.
Before I do anything, I need to thoroughl
I was not prepared to do the glued/taped windows on my C&C 36 XL/kcb when the
windows were replaced this past spring. (They were both leaking and 'crazed'
from the NC sun after 15+ year in it).
The yard preferred to seal them with a proper sealant and then use screws to
hold them in place--th
I think ASPLTD sells what is called a halyard parking bracket which is a
commercial version of a 'reverse' cleat at the mast for the spin halyard.
Basically it is a cam cleat that mounts on a bracket such that the opening
(top?) of the cleat faces the mast. That way, when the kite is hoisted,
My Beta 28 fuel system has recently developed a penchant for sucking air into
the system somewhere upstream of my electric fuel pumps. (I have 2 installed in
parallel so that I can switch between them if one dies or get clogged, etc.)
These pumps are downstream of my Racor 500 30 micron fuel f
Thanks for your responses. To answer some of the questions raised, the pumps
were placed downstream of the Racor for a couple of reasons.
1. The pump original location was upstream of the Racor (30 micron) which was
recommended by the Beta engineer because these small pumps do not have much
v
elsewhere.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Sun, Jun 25, 2017 at 7:31 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
wrote:
My Beta 28 fuel system has recently developed a penchant for sucking air into
the system somewhere upstream of my electric fuel pumps. (I have 2 installed in
paralle
C.
On Mon, Jun 26, 2017 at 8:34 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
wrote:
Thanks for your responses. To answer some of the questions raised, the pumps
were placed downstream of the Racor for a couple of reasons.
1. The pump original location was upstream of the Racor (30 micron) which was
rec
If any lister is interested, I keep my boat in Oriental for the summer and will
be down there this weekend so I could have a look (FWIW!).
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
To: cnc-list
Cc: Della B
Is this boat the C&C 37/40 or a different animal altogether?
Charlie Nelson
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
From: rshibe via CnC-List
To: cnc-list
Cc: rshibe
Sent: Wed, Jul 5, 2017 1:49 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 40 question
Hey guys our boats also serve as "Man Caves
It is time for me to replace my centerboard pennant--now 6 years old.
The yard likes to go with stainless steel wire, which is the same as the
original pennant delivered with the boat when new in 1995.
I am considering using an equivalent or stronger dyneema line but have a few
questions fo
I replaced mine a few years ago and went with Northstar AGMs (Group 31). These
were highly rated then by several reviews.
They claim to be made from 'virgin' (as opposed to recycled) lead, are ~ $350
each and weigh at least 70 lbs.
The ones I got previously from Sams club (AGM--forgot the 'b
If an Edson pedestal, talk to their technical support. I just received a new
handle, shaft and bushing for mine for less than a boat buck.
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
C&C 36 XL/kcb
cenel...@aol.com
-Original Message-
From: bruce via CnC-List
To: cnc-list
Cc: bruce
Sent: Sun, Ju
I used to ride to meetings with an older (then!) fellow who was involved in
maintenance for a large long-haul freight trucking company. They followed a
simple formula that they probably learned from experience about the diesel
engines on their trucks--they probably had several hundred, maybe eve
On the same note, does the list have any thoughts on covering the sole with a
thin teak and holly laminate/plastic(?) that is basically 'stuck/glued' to the
original sole.
I saw an article in Sail Magazine about how to do this but don't know how it
might hold up--probably a lot cheaper and e
Good luck with any 'spot' repairs.
The yard just fixed a collision based leak of longstanding on my starboard bow
quarter hull-deck joint and had to remove the bolts back to about mid-ship to
get enough separation to reach the joint. This was about 6-8 times the
length of the leaking portion
My 36XL/kcb is of a different vintage but I believe it was a slightly scaled
down version of the C&C 37/40 of the late 80s/early 90s. Yours may be very
different.
FWIW, the center boards of the above vintages were fiberglass filled with lead.
On my 36, the board weighs about 1000 lbs.
My pi
A few suggestions:
Have a look at a similar sized boat on the hard and contemplate holding a
sander (~5-6 inches in diameter) above your head while you move it along the
bottom while moving a chair to sit on or doing it standing or kneeling.
Remember that you must not poison yourself with the
Another solution--years ago I used a mast boot that had adhesive around the
edges (maybe only the ends) of the ~ 8" wide soft white
plastic/rubber strip. Don't recall the vendor.
Either per the instructions that came with it (or not--too many years ago!), I
used LARGE SS hose clamps to secure
I believe they produced many of this model--however, there is also a
possibility that not every number used was sequential.
Some manufacturers in other fields will change the serial number when a minor
change is made. Thus you might have gaps in the number sequence with some
numbers not used a
That looks like a standard low-profile Lewmar track/car and it looks like it
has the internal blocks to make it adjustable. Add a suitable block on the fore
and aft ends of the track, run a line appropriately and eventually to the
cockpit and you have adjustable cars.
Mind that you face the c
ve a photo of your setup you can post/send?
Thanks!
Bruce Whitmore
Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
Original message ----
From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
Date: 12/20/17 10:59 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: cenel...@aol.com
Subject:
All the posts about exterior teak have got me thinking about redoing my cabin
teak.
(I am fortunate that my 1995 36 C&C XL/kcb has no exterior teak!)
My interior teak, however, is extensive and never varnished although I did
'oil' it once or twice in the 20+ years of ownership.
Some of it has
IIRC, at least on my 36 XL, the toe rail bolts also hold the deck to the hull
at the hull-deck joint.
I had an old water leak from a collision 15 years ago repaired this past
summer. The leak was at about 6 ft aft of the bow on the starboard side. The
fix was to undo the toe rail and bolts fr
I used the heaviest solid wood I could find--I think it was 1/2" thick,
relatively cheap and available at Lowes and relatively easy to work with normal
tools. The available Starboard in that thickness was pretty expensive.
Coated it with the thin type epoxy (forgot the name) that soaks into the
I need to replace all the cabin lights/fixtures on my 36XL/kcb and am thinking
of a white/red combo LED for all 0r some of them.
I mostly race her so the lights don't get used very often. I want to get
something that is relatively inexpensive, will not
rust/tarnish (forget about the tradition
After I had Water Phantom awl-gripped professionally about 7 years ago, I had a
canvas maker build a 'boot' for the transom.
This is made of some kind of relatively tough vinyl, complete with graphics,
and is attached to the stern pulpit with
simple fasteners around the pulpit supports. It cov
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