Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

An interesting post, as I am considering how and where to install the long
tracks I got to upgrade our 35mk2. So the small inner track allows one to
trim the genoa with more curve by bringing it inboard in lighter wind?
Currently, my genoa uses a block on the toerail, and the jib uses the
factory track, which is almost at the cockpit coaming. So by moving the
genoa sheet to the track, I should be able to get more curve? I will have
to try this. I can see the lifelines might be an issue though, as they can
be when running closehauled with the genoa on the toerail.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 9:13 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Welcome Larry,
> I don't think the email server can handle pics but you got away with it.
>
> My understanding is the following:
> The long Genoa track is for the #1s and #2 if you have those.  155% down
> to 120%.  It is the track you will use most of the time and has an
> adjustable car.  The short track inside of this on the cockpit coaming is
> to sheet those same genoas in lighter wind when you want more curve, and
> sheeting to the longer track makes the sail too flat.   The forward track
> is for smaller headsails like a #3, #4, 110% down to storm jib.
>
> Google "Barberhauler"  and you will see some ways to change the lead
> without undoing the usual sheets.
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Pasadena Md
>
> 
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Welcome Larry,
I don't think the email server can handle pics but you got away with it.

My understanding is the following:
The long Genoa track is for the #1s and #2 if you have those.  155% down to 
120%.  It is the track you will use most of the time and has an adjustable car. 
 The short track inside of this on the cockpit coaming is to sheet those same 
genoas in lighter wind when you want more curve, and sheeting to the longer 
track makes the sail too flat.   The forward track is for smaller headsails 
like a #3, #4, 110% down to storm jib. 

Google "Barberhauler"  and you will see some ways to change the lead without 
undoing the usual sheets.

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C&C 34R, Pasadena Md

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List]

http://superb.kcmaps.com

Pierre Tremblay

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Allan Rheaume via CnC-List]

http://have.thesportsbrandingagency.com

Allan Rheaume

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Not the poster’s fault. Hacked...

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 28, 2018, at 18:52, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> He was probably hacked
> Ron
> 
> 
> On Monday, May 28, 2018, 6:45:26 PM EDT, Wade Glew via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> with all due respect, this post has nothing to do with CNC, boating or 
> anything else we are discussing on this list
> 
> On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 4:36 AM, Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>  
> 
> http://service. curediabeteswithoutdrugs.com
> 
>  
> 
> Erik Hillenmeyer
> 
>  
> 
> 
> __ _
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
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> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

 He was probably hackedRon

On Monday, May 28, 2018, 6:45:26 PM EDT, Wade Glew via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 with all due respect, this post has nothing to do with CNC, boating or 
anything else we are discussing on this list
On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 4:36 AM, Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List 
 wrote:


 

http://service. curediabeteswithoutdrugs.com

 

Erik Hillenmeyer

 

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

with all due respect, this post has nothing to do with CNC, boating or
anything else we are discussing on this list

On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 4:36 AM, Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> http://service.curediabeteswithoutdrugs.com
>
>
>
> Erik Hillenmeyer
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I used the key way, but I understand that some rudders have the key way
extend down further than others.  So you may be able to use the key way or
not.

Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 11:54 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gary,
>
> Did you just use the key-way or did you drill through the rudder post as
> well?  I really like how you installed it all at home and then just glassed
> in the shelf!
> Danny
>
>
> On 10/27/2017 11:24 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hi Doug,
>  I had to cut a section out of the tube (terrifying) but it worked out
> great.  Just do all the reinforcing first, before you cut it so everything
> stays lined up.  The tube supports the deck.  See pictures below:
>
> Gary
> ​
>  High Maintenance Autopilot Project
> <https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BwQRSP2fYIFmbWJHUy1vcXI0dUU>
> ​
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:52 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks Gary. Was a portion of the rudder shaft exposed, or did you have
>> to cut a section of the tube away to install the arm for the auto pilot ram.
>>
>>
>> Doug Allardyce
>> _/)~~~_/) 
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]*On Behalf Of *Gary
>> Russell via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, October 27, 2017 9:31 AM
>> *To:* C&C List
>> *Cc:* Gary Russell
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List (no subject)
>>
>> Yes, I do.  I put one in a 37+ and I love it.
>>
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah
>> '90 C&C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:14 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Does anyone out there have experience putting a below deck autopilot on
>>> a 34
>>> plus or 37/40.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Doug Allardyce
>>> _/)~~~_/) 
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
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> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Doug,

 

I “copied” Gary’s design and am happy with the results.  My rudder shaft did 
not have a keyway (Gary’s had one) so I ended up having to drill a 3/8” hole 
through a 3” stainless steel tube with ½” thick walls.  Edson makes an 
appropriate tiller arm with a 3/8” hole pre-drilled.  I used a drill bushing to 
start with a 1/8” pilot hole.  If you end up having to drill your shaft, let me 
know.  I have a drill bushing 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C&C 37+

Bristol, RI

 <mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug 
Allardyce via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 12:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Doug Allardyce
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

 

Thank again Gary. This is very helpful. You did a great job laying everything 
out and then executing. No mysteries now on what needs to be done. Great 
installation.

 

Doug Allardyce 
_/)~~~_/)  

-Original Message-



 

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Thank again Gary. This is very helpful. You did a great job laying everything 
out and then executing. No mysteries now on what needs to be done. Great 
installation.

Doug Allardyce 
_/)~~~_/)  

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Gary 
Russell via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 11:25 AM
  To: C&C List
  Cc: Gary Russell
  Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)


  Hi Doug,
   I had to cut a section out of the tube (terrifying) but it worked out 
great.  Just do all the reinforcing first, before you cut it so everything 
stays lined up.  The tube supports the deck.  See pictures below:


  Gary
  ​
   High Maintenance Autopilot Project​



  ~~~_/)~~




  On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:52 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Thanks Gary. Was a portion of the rudder shaft exposed, or did you have to 
cut a section of the tube away to install the arm for the auto pilot ram.

Doug Allardyce 
_/)~~~_/)  

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Gary 
Russell via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 9:31 AM
  To: C&C List
  Cc: Gary Russell
  Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)


  Yes, I do.  I put one in a 37+ and I love it. 


  Gary
  S/V Kaylarah
  '90 C&C 37+
  East Greenwich, RI, USA


  ~~~_/)~~




  On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:14 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Does anyone out there have experience putting a below deck autopilot on 
a 34
plus or 37/40.



Doug Allardyce
_/)~~~_/) 


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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Gary,

Did you just use the key-way or did you drill through the rudder post as 
well?  I really like how you installed it all at home and then just 
glassed in the shelf!


Danny

On 10/27/2017 11:24 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Doug,
     I had to cut a section out of the tube (terrifying) but it worked 
out great.  Just do all the reinforcing first, before you cut it so 
everything stays lined up.  The tube supports the deck.  See pictures 
below:


Gary
​
High Maintenance Autopilot Project 
<https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BwQRSP2fYIFmbWJHUy1vcXI0dUU>

​

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:52 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Thanks Gary. Was a portion of the rudder shaft exposed, or did you
have to cut a section of the tube away to install the arm for the
auto pilot ram.

Doug Allardyce
_/)~~~_/) 

-Original Message-
*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>]*On Behalf Of *Gary
Russell via CnC-List
*Sent:* Friday, October 27, 2017 9:31 AM
*To:* C&C List
*Cc:* Gary Russell
    *Subject:* Re: Stus-List (no subject)

Yes, I do.  I put one in a 37+ and I love it.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:14 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Does anyone out there have experience putting a below deck
autopilot on a 34
plus or 37/40.



Doug Allardyce
_/)~~~_/) 


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have gone up again.  October will be our fund raising
month.  Please consider sending a small contribution to
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<https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>

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<https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>

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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Doug,
 I had to cut a section out of the tube (terrifying) but it worked out
great.  Just do all the reinforcing first, before you cut it so everything
stays lined up.  The tube supports the deck.  See pictures below:

Gary
​
 High Maintenance Autopilot Project
<https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BwQRSP2fYIFmbWJHUy1vcXI0dUU>
​

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:52 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks Gary. Was a portion of the rudder shaft exposed, or did you have to
> cut a section of the tube away to install the arm for the auto pilot ram.
>
>
> Doug Allardyce
> _/)~~~_/) 
>
> -Original Message-
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]*On Behalf Of *Gary
> Russell via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, October 27, 2017 9:31 AM
> *To:* C&C List
> *Cc:* Gary Russell
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List (no subject)
>
> Yes, I do.  I put one in a 37+ and I love it.
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C&C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:14 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Does anyone out there have experience putting a below deck autopilot on a
>> 34
>> plus or 37/40.
>>
>>
>>
>> Doug Allardyce
>> _/)~~~_/) 
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Thanks Gary. Was a portion of the rudder shaft exposed, or did you have to cut 
a section of the tube away to install the arm for the auto pilot ram.

Doug Allardyce 
_/)~~~_/)  

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Gary 
Russell via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 9:31 AM
  To: C&C List
  Cc: Gary Russell
  Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)


  Yes, I do.  I put one in a 37+ and I love it.


  Gary
  S/V Kaylarah
  '90 C&C 37+
  East Greenwich, RI, USA


  ~~~_/)~~




  On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:14 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Does anyone out there have experience putting a below deck autopilot on a 34
plus or 37/40.



Doug Allardyce
_/)~~~_/) 


___

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___

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Yes, I do.  I put one in a 37+ and I love it.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:14 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does anyone out there have experience putting a below deck autopilot on a
> 34
> plus or 37/40.
>
>
>
> Doug Allardyce
> _/)~~~_/) 
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi John,

First suggestion is to check the Photoalbum site to se if your manual 
is listed in the resources sections. Then talk with a few old guys at 
your marina. If that doesn't work out well enough, post a few more 
details here and we'll take a stab at it.


:)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 11:45 AM 22/07/2017, you wrote:

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List]

Dave,

Thanks for the info.  I have my new Raymarine EV-100 autopilot sitting 
in a box at home waiting to be installed - I too got the email 
indicating there was a wonderful software upgrade, with better course 
management etc etc etc.  I looked into the info far enough to see that I 
didn't have the right gear to use the update and gave up.


In my case the boat only has speed and depth (from the 80's) -- I 
figured that Raymarine is the most likely ecosystem as I add future gear 
- so the Raymarine auto pilot made sense.


I agree with the frustration of proprietary systems - but it seems we 
don't learn these issues until we've already paid to play.  One thing 
I've learned from other listers here is that I'm better off with one 
manufacturer rather than trying to mate together systems.



Mark


There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
  - George Santayana

On 2016-09-20 11:44 PM, Dave via CnC-List wrote:

Graham/all - to be clear, to me the issue is not so much being able to update 
one Manufacturer's firmware from another's device, it's about not being able to 
update it at all, without a MFD  (hence the 'accessories to MFD subject line'). 
 Raymarine could easily have elected to permit updates by some other means at 
the network level or at the device, but didn't.

Read the manual before buying?  Just dug them out and here's  what it says in 
my pristine p70 autopilot controller manual:

'- software revision
Raymarine regularly updates product software to add new features and improve 
existing functionality.  This document covers lighthouse version 3.xx which 
should be used in conjunction with ev... Blah blah
Check the raymarine website to ensure you have the latest software and user 
manuals.'

That's all it says, and I'm a bit surprised.  They address that software 
updates  are part of ownership, and (rightly) offer and encourage the happy new 
autopilot purchaser to update their software, even helpfully directing them to 
the website.(Sounds great, here's my money!). One minor detail seems to 
have been omitted...

It been an interesting topic to explore, with interesting perspectives.   I'll  
figure out a way to sort it.   I like the raymarine instruments and their 
people were accessible and courteous.  The more I dig into it though, the more 
convinced I am that their approach to this is unethical, irrespective of how 
one might feel about their broader strategy.   (The manual ices it.). Anyway, 
now we know, as will others who read the discussion.

I didn't hate them, but I'm starting to.

Mic drop... ;-)

Dave




Message: 3
Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2016 00:02:16 +
From: G Collins 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine exits the instrument, vhf and
autopilot business!
Message-ID:



Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"


You Ray haters kill me...   just kidding!  But sometimes it pays to read
the manual before you buy, and they are all available online these days.

That Garmin thing is a cool solution, I like it.  The Navico (B&G)
version doesn't seem to be available anywhere, so that may have been a
possible route to firmware updates but no longer...

I guess my conclusion early on was to get a MDF that goes with the big
electronics on the boat, so my a75 MDF can update my EV200 autopilot.
And IMHO it makes sense to have the same brand of anyway, so that you
are sure they will work together as best they can.  My wind/speed/depth
system, since it is B&G, is essentially orphaned.  I'm not so concerned
with that.  And I am quite happy with my Raymarine gear, whereas I've
had two Triton displays malfunction on me in the same 3 seasons.

As to why you can't update one companies gear from another companies
MDF, I can't see any company signing up for that - say I update my B&G
firmware over my Ray MDF, and next thing my Triton displays are bricks -
who do I call to get it resolved? That would not be a fun day.

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11


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greatly appreciated!




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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject) -> Raymarine repair and firmware update experience

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Dave,

A while back I noticed that my Raymarine SPX-5 autopilot did not have the most 
recent firmware, but at that time I did not rush to update as I had no 
mechanism, like you, to do so.  To me it was not a major issue as the autopilot 
was working fine.  I operated it as stand alone device which I would mainly use 
to maintain a course heading or to occasionally assist in tacking.   

During it’s 4th or 5th year of use (after warranty), I started having problems 
with the autopilot drifting off course, then failing to recalibrate, and 
finally not working at all.  I called Raymarine and a tech had me measure the 
resistance across several wires to check the compass and measure voltage at the 
wheel drive.  After doing so, a tech stated that the problem was with the 
course computer, and that I need to send it in for repair.   I sailed my 29 for 
another year without a working autopilot before removing it and selling the 
vessel after purchasing my Landfall 38.  

Shortly before splashing the LF38 after some refitting, I sent the autopilot 
computer to Raymarine to see how much it was going to cost to fix it.  Over the 
phone, I was told that it would be a minimum of $99 for out of warranty repair 
work.  About a week after sending it in, I started calling to inquire on the 
repair.   The customer rep. took my contact info and told me they would contact 
me with a day or so.  The very next day, the unit arrived via UPS fully 
repaired and with an updated firmware.  I was expecting a pricey repair charge, 
but the only cost to me was the original USPS shipping fee to Raymarine. 

In your case, If the p70 firmware update provide important fixes or new must 
have functionality, you could look into sending it to Raymarine for the 
updating.  My guess is that they will do it free of charge.  I know it is not 
ideal, but at least it’s an option.

I have to admit, it was mostly this experience with Raymarine that later led me 
to purchasing a Raymarine e7d chart plotter, a Ray depth transducer, and a Ray 
Speed/Log/Temp system over other brands.  And recently an EV-200 autopilot (but 
with the octopus 1212LAR12 linear drive). 


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Sep 21, 2016, at 8:57 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Graham/all - to be clear, to me the issue is not so much being able to update 
> one Manufacturer's firmware from another's device, it's about not being able 
> to update it at all, without a MFD  (hence the 'accessories to MFD subject 
> line').  Raymarine could easily have elected to permit updates by some other 
> means at the network level or at the device, but didn't.  
> 
> Read the manual before buying?  Just dug them out and here's  what it says in 
> my pristine p70 autopilot controller manual:
> 
> '- software revision
> Raymarine regularly updates product software to add new features and improve 
> existing functionality.  This document covers lighthouse version 3.xx which 
> should be used in conjunction with ev... Blah blah 
> Check the raymarine website to ensure you have the latest software and user 
> manuals.'
> 
> That's all it says, and I'm a bit surprised.  They address that software 
> updates  are part of ownership, and (rightly) offer and encourage the happy 
> new autopilot purchaser to update their software, even helpfully directing 
> them to the website.(Sounds great, here's my money!). One minor detail 
> seems to have been omitted...  
> 
> It been an interesting topic to explore, with interesting perspectives.   
> I'll  figure out a way to sort it.   I like the raymarine instruments and 
> their people were accessible and courteous.  The more I dig into it though, 
> the more convinced I am that their approach to this is unethical, 
> irrespective of how one might feel about their broader strategy.   (The 
> manual ices it.). Anyway, now we know, as will others who read the 
> discussion. 
> 
> I didn't hate them, but I'm starting to.
> 
> Mic drop... ;-)
> 
> Dave

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Dave,

not a specific solution to any of your problems, but if you are dealing with 
sanitation, Peggy Hall’s book (Get Rid of Boat Odors) is a very good read. It 
might be the best $25 you spend on your sanitation systems (A Kindle version is 
I think under $10).

Marek

From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2016 09:36
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

HI Dave,

Not for nuthin' but, if you can hear the the vent, it is restricted and won't 
be letting much air in unless there is a vacuum like the one created by the 
pump. Mine was the same way when I bought my boat so I added a second and 
enlarged the first using 1-1/8 SS thru hull fittings and hose. was not that big 
a job. also the waste hose could be a big source of smells from the system. I 
replaced all those as well. no oder at all on our boat!

The larger vents and thru hull also allow me to flush the system at pumpout 
with fresh water running into the system through the vent opening and get the 
tank nice and clean.

Danny




On 8/14/2016 7:45 PM, Syerdave--- via CnC-List wrote:

  Thanks Paul, you've got me thinking
  I know the vent works because the guy who did the last pump out commented 
that he liked the location because he could hear the vent. So, it is admitting 
some air, but day in day out, not a lot because it can't circulate. 
  Any reason you can think of not to create a vented deck fill? Big boats have 
big vents... Same thing, I would think.
  This may not solve the stench-permeated tank issue, but it would air the tank.

  Dave.



  From: Dreuge 
  To: CnClist 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Guidance required on Sewage hose type - LF38
  NOW Active holding tank vent
  Message-ID: <47519851-9d14-4693-b61f-cc574a8f1...@gmail.com>
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii


  Dave,

  From what all the experts say, using quality hose and having proper 
ventilation are main keys. A real eye opener for me was finding 
  a bug nest clogged air vent line, so at the very least check or replace your 
vent line. To be honest, I cannot make any claims that adding the
  active ventilation fixed any problems as the system was be newly installed so 
there was no problem to fix. But at such a small
  cost ~$25, it was a no brainer to install a system which constantly pumps 
fresh air into the holding tank. I thought briefly about getting a 
  12V air pump, but if I were to make any changes it would be to plumb the 
galley sink drain to the head inlet so that when I leave the boat for an 
extended period, 
  the head inlet could easily be flush with fresh water. This eliminate salt 
water organisms from the inlet line which die off in 
  the line and decay, without oxygen, anaerobically. 


  -
  Paul E.
  1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
  S/V Johanna Rose
  Carrabelle, FL

  http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

  On Aug 14, 2016, at 11:01 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Message: 1
  Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2016 08:32:27 -0400
  From: Dave Syer 
  To: "dre...@gmail.com" , C&c Stus List
  
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Guidance required on Sewage hose type - LF38
  NOW Active holding tank vent


  Paul ? great blog, lotsa detail. You have piqued my curiosity with your 
active holding tank vent project. I have a rather ?piquant? poly holding tank 
in my 33-2. I changed the in and out (but not the vent) hoses and still I get a 
stench, particularly when the adjoining lockers are opened. The tank itself was 
removed and repaired, and while out it could not be de-stinked by any means I 
attempted, bleach, etc. Maybe there?s a way to deal with that, dunno.
  Am considering replacing the tank, but would rather resolve the cause. (or do 
both, and make provision for better/active ventilation in the new tank)
  In your post below, you seem pretty pleased with the result, any other 
insights? Anything you would do differently?

  Dave


   

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

HI Dave,

Not for nuthin' but, if you can hear the the vent, it is restricted and 
won't be letting much air in unless there is a vacuum like the one 
created by the pump.  Mine was the same way when I bought my boat so I 
added a second and enlarged the first using 1-1/8 SS thru hull fittings 
and hose.  was not that big a job.  also the waste hose could be a big 
source of smells from the system.  I replaced all those as well.  no 
oder at all on our boat!


The larger vents and thru hull also allow me to flush the system at 
pumpout with fresh water running into the system through the vent 
opening and get the tank nice and clean.


Danny


On 8/14/2016 7:45 PM, Syerdave--- via CnC-List wrote:

Thanks Paul, you've  got me thinking
I know the vent works because the guy who did the last pump out 
commented that he liked the location because he could hear the vent.   
So, it is admitting some air, but day in day out, not a lot because it 
can't circulate.
Any reason you can think of not to create a vented deck fill?  Big 
boats have big vents...  Same thing, I would  think.
This may not solve the stench-permeated tank issue, but it would air 
the tank.


Dave.


From: Dreuge mailto:dre...@gmail.com>>
To: CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Guidance required on Sewage hose type - LF38
   NOWActive holding tank vent
Message-ID: <47519851-9d14-4693-b61f-cc574a8f1...@gmail.com 
>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii


Dave,

From what all the experts say, using quality hose and having proper 
ventilation are main keys.   A real eye opener for me was finding
a bug nest clogged air vent line, so at the very least check or 
replace your vent line.   To be honest, I cannot make any claims that 
adding the
active ventilation fixed any problems as the system was be newly 
installed so there was no problem to fix.  But at such a small
cost ~$25, it was a no brainer to install a system which constantly 
 pumps fresh air into the holding tank.   I thought briefly about 
getting a
12V air pump, but  if I were to make any changes it would be to plumb 
the galley sink drain to the head inlet so that when I leave the boat 
for an extended period,
the head inlet could easily be flush with fresh water.   This 
eliminate salt water organisms from the inlet line which die off in

the line and decay, without oxygen, anaerobically.


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Aug 14, 2016, at 11:01 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:


Message: 1
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2016 08:32:27 -0400
From: Dave Syer mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>>
To: "dre...@gmail.com " >,  C&c Stus List

   mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Guidance required on Sewage hose type - LF38
   NOW Active holding tank vent


Paul ? great blog, lotsa detail.   You have piqued my curiosity with 
your active holding tank vent project.   I have a rather ?piquant? 
poly holding tank in my 33-2.  I changed the in and out (but not the 
vent) hoses  and still I get a stench, particularly when the adjoining 
lockers are opened.   The tank itself was removed and repaired, and 
while out it could not be de-stinked by any means I attempted, bleach, 
etc.  Maybe there?s a way to deal with that, dunno.
Am considering replacing the tank, but would rather resolve the cause. 
(or do both, and make provision for better/active ventilation in the 
new tank)
In your post below, you seem pretty pleased with the result, any other 
insights?  Anything you would do differently?


Dave



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[svpegasus38]

Every year after an extended cruise, I stop at the pump out. Hook up the 
suction hose, open the clean out and spray water in the tank while sucking out 
the tank. This helps keep the odor down, especially being a live aboard. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 #4just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Syerdave--- via CnC-ListDate: Sun, Aug 14, 
2016 16:46To: C&c Stus List;Cc: syerd...@gmail.com;Subject:Stus-List (no 
subject)
Thanks Paul, you've  got me thinkingI know the vent works because the guy 
who did the last pump out commented that he liked the location because he could 
hear the vent.   So, it is admitting some air, but day in day out, not a lot 
because it can't circulate.  Any reason you can think of not to create a vented 
deck fill?  Big boats have big vents...  Same thing, I would  think.This may 
not solve the stench-permeated tank issue, but it would air the tank.
Dave.

From: Dreuge 
To: CnClist 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Guidance required on Sewage hose type - LF38
   NOW    Active holding tank vent
Message-ID: <47519851-9d14-4693-b61f-cc574a8f1...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii


Dave,

>From what all the experts say, using quality hose and having proper 
>ventilation are main keys.   A real eye opener for me was finding 
a bug nest clogged air vent line, so at the very least check or replace your 
vent line.   To be honest, I cannot make any claims that adding the
active ventilation fixed any problems as the system was be newly installed so 
there was no problem to fix.  But at such a small
cost ~$25, it was a no brainer to install a system which constantly  pumps 
fresh air into the holding tank.   I thought briefly about getting a 
12V air pump, but  if I were to make any changes it would be to plumb the 
galley sink drain to the head inlet so that when I leave the boat for an 
extended period, 
the head inlet could easily be flush with fresh water.   This eliminate salt 
water organisms from the inlet line which die off in 
the line and decay, without oxygen, anaerobically. 


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Aug 14, 2016, at 11:01 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2016 08:32:27 -0400
From: Dave Syer 
To: "dre...@gmail.com" ,    C&c Stus List
   
Subject: Re: Stus-List Guidance required on Sewage hose type - LF38
   NOW Active holding tank vent


Paul ? great blog, lotsa detail.   You have piqued my curiosity with your 
active holding tank vent project.   I have a rather ?piquant? poly holding tank 
in my 33-2.  I changed the in and out (but not the vent) hoses  and still I get 
a stench, particularly when the adjoining lockers are opened.   The tank itself 
was removed and repaired, and while out it could not be de-stinked by any means 
I attempted, bleach, etc.  Maybe there?s a way to deal with that, dunno.
Am considering replacing the tank, but would rather resolve the cause. (or do 
both, and make provision for better/active ventilation in the new tank)
In your post below, you seem pretty pleased with the result, any other 
insights?  Anything you would do differently?

Dave



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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Gary,
 I have a Flex-o-Fold also, and if I don't "lock" it, it will continue
to spin.  I use reverse.
Gary
S/V Kaylarah

~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 3:26 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I used to have a Martec. I always moved the shaft to the horizontal prop
> position to assure the blades both folded, or one could end up with a
> ‘hanging blade’ and you know how much that means!
>
>
>
> Now I have a Flex with gears – it folds in any position, and I doubt that
> it must be stopped, as the forward motion of the boat will push the blades
> backward, causing them to fold as long as the shaft is not being powered.
> I’m sure stopping it would help a lot. I have been leaving my Yanmar in
> forward for 22 years with no problems (knock on wood).
>
>
>
> Gary
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *ALAN
> BERGEN via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 8, 2016 2:49 PM
> *To:* cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
> *Cc:* ALAN BERGEN 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List (no subject)
>
>
>
> For a folding prop, you do have to stop the shaft in order for it to
> fold.  You also have to center it (blades in the horizontal position) for
> both of them to fold.  With feathering props, you shift into reverse, the
> shaft turns and the prop feathers.
>
> Alan Bergen
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 11:20 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Gary,
>
> I believe the list has addressed this before but I'll throw it out there
> again.
>
> A freewheeling prop has less resistance than a fixed one.  There are a few
> assumptions being make in that statement.
> *Fixed blade prop
> *No shaft driven generator/alternator.
>
> The navy does it regularly.  As a throttleman onboard an aircraft carrier
> with 4 shafts, I can tell you, a trailing shaft always required less
> compensation than a fixed shaft.  The only reason we ever stopped the shaft
> was to do maintenance/repairs on the main engine or because of a shaft seal
> failure.  The emergency shaft seal would be ruptured if the shaft was
> allowed to spin.
>
> As for our boats with featuring/folding props you have to stop the shaft
> in order to allow the prop to feather/fold.  As others have mentioned you
> may have to shift into reverse to feather the prop.  Staying in reverse
> ensures that the prop doesn't "re-feather" and start spinning again.
> Pretty unlikely.  I occasionally forget to shift into neutral when
> starting... Oops!
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Jun 8, 2016 9:48 AM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Aside from drag, I don't see what harm having it is neutral could do to
> the mechanical systems.  That said, if I recall correctly, the MarTec prop
> folks suggest putting it in reverse temporarily to rotate the prop blades
> into a neutral position...but that could just be something I imagined.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
> > On Jun 8, 2016, at 9:06 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> >
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2016 09:05:42 -0400
> > From: David Knecht 
> > To: CnC CnC discussion list 
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission in forward or reverse while
> >sailing?
> > Message-ID: 
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > Mine recommends reverse but also says the transmission will be damaged
> if left in forward.  Not sure why.  Dave
> >
> >> On Jun 8, 2016, at 7:16 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> The answer may depend on what make of transmission you have, but my
> Hurth transmission recommends reverse.  If your prop is spinning in
> forward, I would suggest that is not good.  I would recommend reverse.
> Some transmission, I'm told, have the oil pump on the input shaft, so there
> is no lubrication when the engine is stopped.  That's one reason you want
> to make sure the prop is not free-wheeling.  The other reason, of course,
> is drag.
> >>
> >> Gary
> >> S/V Kaylarah
> >> '90 C&C 37+
> >> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> >>
> >>
> >> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are gre

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Thank you Josh.  That makes sense.
Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 2:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gary,
>
> I believe the list has addressed this before but I'll throw it out there
> again.
>
> A freewheeling prop has less resistance than a fixed one.  There are a few
> assumptions being make in that statement.
> *Fixed blade prop
> *No shaft driven generator/alternator.
>
> The navy does it regularly.  As a throttleman onboard an aircraft carrier
> with 4 shafts, I can tell you, a trailing shaft always required less
> compensation than a fixed shaft.  The only reason we ever stopped the shaft
> was to do maintenance/repairs on the main engine or because of a shaft seal
> failure.  The emergency shaft seal would be ruptured if the shaft was
> allowed to spin.
>
> As for our boats with featuring/folding props you have to stop the shaft
> in order to allow the prop to feather/fold.  As others have mentioned you
> may have to shift into reverse to feather the prop.  Staying in reverse
> ensures that the prop doesn't "re-feather" and start spinning again.
> Pretty unlikely.  I occasionally forget to shift into neutral when
> starting... Oops!
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Jun 8, 2016 9:48 AM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Aside from drag, I don't see what harm having it is neutral could do to
>> the mechanical systems.  That said, if I recall correctly, the MarTec prop
>> folks suggest putting it in reverse temporarily to rotate the prop blades
>> into a neutral position...but that could just be something I imagined.
>>
>> Tom Buscaglia
>> S/V Alera
>> 1990 C&C 37+/40
>> Vashon WA
>> P 206.463.9200
>>
>>
>> > On Jun 8, 2016, at 9:06 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> >
>> > Message: 6
>> > Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2016 09:05:42 -0400
>> > From: David Knecht 
>> > To: CnC CnC discussion list 
>> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission in forward or reverse while
>> >sailing?
>> > Message-ID: 
>> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> >
>> > Mine recommends reverse but also says the transmission will be damaged
>> if left in forward.  Not sure why.  Dave
>> >
>> >> On Jun 8, 2016, at 7:16 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> The answer may depend on what make of transmission you have, but my
>> Hurth transmission recommends reverse.  If your prop is spinning in
>> forward, I would suggest that is not good.  I would recommend reverse.
>> Some transmission, I'm told, have the oil pump on the input shaft, so there
>> is no lubrication when the engine is stopped.  That's one reason you want
>> to make sure the prop is not free-wheeling.  The other reason, of course,
>> is drag.
>> >>
>> >> Gary
>> >> S/V Kaylarah
>> >> '90 C&C 37+
>> >> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Tom,

I put mine in reverse to stop the prop, then position the shaft so the
blades are folded.  Then I put it back into reverse to lock them in place.
It's easy, especially if you mark the shaft position when the boat is out of
the water.

Jake


Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 8, 2016 09:47
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia 
Subject: Stus-List (no subject)

Aside from drag, I don't see what harm having it is neutral could do to the
mechanical systems.  That said, if I recall correctly, the MarTec prop folks
suggest putting it in reverse temporarily to rotate the prop blades into a
neutral position...but that could just be something I imagined.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I used to have a Martec. I always moved the shaft to the horizontal prop 
position to assure the blades both folded, or one could end up with a ‘hanging 
blade’ and you know how much that means!

 

Now I have a Flex with gears – it folds in any position, and I doubt that it 
must be stopped, as the forward motion of the boat will push the blades 
backward, causing them to fold as long as the shaft is not being powered. I’m 
sure stopping it would help a lot. I have been leaving my Yanmar in forward for 
22 years with no problems (knock on wood).

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 8, 2016 2:49 PM
To: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

 

For a folding prop, you do have to stop the shaft in order for it to fold.  You 
also have to center it (blades in the horizontal position) for both of them to 
fold.  With feathering props, you shift into reverse, the shaft turns and the 
prop feathers.

Alan Bergen

 

On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 11:20 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Gary,

I believe the list has addressed this before but I'll throw it out there again. 
 

A freewheeling prop has less resistance than a fixed one.  There are a few 
assumptions being make in that statement.  
*Fixed blade prop
*No shaft driven generator/alternator.

The navy does it regularly.  As a throttleman onboard an aircraft carrier with 
4 shafts, I can tell you, a trailing shaft always required less compensation 
than a fixed shaft.  The only reason we ever stopped the shaft was to do 
maintenance/repairs on the main engine or because of a shaft seal failure.  The 
emergency shaft seal would be ruptured if the shaft was allowed to spin.

As for our boats with featuring/folding props you have to stop the shaft in 
order to allow the prop to feather/fold.  As others have mentioned you may have 
to shift into reverse to feather the prop.  Staying in reverse ensures that the 
prop doesn't "re-feather" and start spinning again.  Pretty unlikely.  I 
occasionally forget to shift into neutral when starting... Oops!

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Jun 8, 2016 9:48 AM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Aside from drag, I don't see what harm having it is neutral could do to the 
mechanical systems.  That said, if I recall correctly, the MarTec prop folks 
suggest putting it in reverse temporarily to rotate the prop blades into a 
neutral position...but that could just be something I imagined.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C&C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200  


> On Jun 8, 2016, at 9:06 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com>  wrote:
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2016 09:05:42 -0400
> From: David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com> >
> To: CnC CnC discussion list  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission in forward or reverse while
>sailing?
> Message-ID:  <mailto:cc3239bb-3ac8-46c7-9c72-c0a940bd3...@gmail.com> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Mine recommends reverse but also says the transmission will be damaged if 
> left in forward.  Not sure why.  Dave
>
>> On Jun 8, 2016, at 7:16 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List > <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:
>>
>>
>> The answer may depend on what make of transmission you have, but my Hurth 
>> transmission recommends reverse.  If your prop is spinning in forward, I 
>> would suggest that is not good.  I would recommend reverse.  Some 
>> transmission, I'm told, have the oil pump on the input shaft, so there is no 
>> lubrication when the engine is stopped.  That's one reason you want to make 
>> sure the prop is not free-wheeling.  The other reason, of course, is drag.
>>
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah
>> '90 C&C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~


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___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

 

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

For a folding prop, you do have to stop the shaft in order for it to fold.
You also have to center it (blades in the horizontal position) for both of
them to fold.  With feathering props, you shift into reverse, the shaft
turns and the prop feathers.

Alan Bergen

On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 11:20 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gary,
>
> I believe the list has addressed this before but I'll throw it out there
> again.
>
> A freewheeling prop has less resistance than a fixed one.  There are a few
> assumptions being make in that statement.
> *Fixed blade prop
> *No shaft driven generator/alternator.
>
> The navy does it regularly.  As a throttleman onboard an aircraft carrier
> with 4 shafts, I can tell you, a trailing shaft always required less
> compensation than a fixed shaft.  The only reason we ever stopped the shaft
> was to do maintenance/repairs on the main engine or because of a shaft seal
> failure.  The emergency shaft seal would be ruptured if the shaft was
> allowed to spin.
>
> As for our boats with featuring/folding props you have to stop the shaft
> in order to allow the prop to feather/fold.  As others have mentioned you
> may have to shift into reverse to feather the prop.  Staying in reverse
> ensures that the prop doesn't "re-feather" and start spinning again.
> Pretty unlikely.  I occasionally forget to shift into neutral when
> starting... Oops!
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Jun 8, 2016 9:48 AM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Aside from drag, I don't see what harm having it is neutral could do to
>> the mechanical systems.  That said, if I recall correctly, the MarTec prop
>> folks suggest putting it in reverse temporarily to rotate the prop blades
>> into a neutral position...but that could just be something I imagined.
>>
>> Tom Buscaglia
>> S/V Alera
>> 1990 C&C 37+/40
>> Vashon WA
>> P 206.463.9200
>>
>>
>> > On Jun 8, 2016, at 9:06 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> >
>> > Message: 6
>> > Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2016 09:05:42 -0400
>> > From: David Knecht 
>> > To: CnC CnC discussion list 
>> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission in forward or reverse while
>> >sailing?
>> > Message-ID: 
>> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> >
>> > Mine recommends reverse but also says the transmission will be damaged
>> if left in forward.  Not sure why.  Dave
>> >
>> >> On Jun 8, 2016, at 7:16 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> The answer may depend on what make of transmission you have, but my
>> Hurth transmission recommends reverse.  If your prop is spinning in
>> forward, I would suggest that is not good.  I would recommend reverse.
>> Some transmission, I'm told, have the oil pump on the input shaft, so there
>> is no lubrication when the engine is stopped.  That's one reason you want
>> to make sure the prop is not free-wheeling.  The other reason, of course,
>> is drag.
>> >>
>> >> Gary
>> >> S/V Kaylarah
>> >> '90 C&C 37+
>> >> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Gary,

I believe the list has addressed this before but I'll throw it out there
again.

A freewheeling prop has less resistance than a fixed one.  There are a few
assumptions being make in that statement.
*Fixed blade prop
*No shaft driven generator/alternator.

The navy does it regularly.  As a throttleman onboard an aircraft carrier
with 4 shafts, I can tell you, a trailing shaft always required less
compensation than a fixed shaft.  The only reason we ever stopped the shaft
was to do maintenance/repairs on the main engine or because of a shaft seal
failure.  The emergency shaft seal would be ruptured if the shaft was
allowed to spin.

As for our boats with featuring/folding props you have to stop the shaft in
order to allow the prop to feather/fold.  As others have mentioned you may
have to shift into reverse to feather the prop.  Staying in reverse ensures
that the prop doesn't "re-feather" and start spinning again.  Pretty
unlikely.  I occasionally forget to shift into neutral when starting...
Oops!

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 8, 2016 9:48 AM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Aside from drag, I don't see what harm having it is neutral could do to
> the mechanical systems.  That said, if I recall correctly, the MarTec prop
> folks suggest putting it in reverse temporarily to rotate the prop blades
> into a neutral position...but that could just be something I imagined.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
> > On Jun 8, 2016, at 9:06 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> >
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2016 09:05:42 -0400
> > From: David Knecht 
> > To: CnC CnC discussion list 
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission in forward or reverse while
> >sailing?
> > Message-ID: 
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > Mine recommends reverse but also says the transmission will be damaged
> if left in forward.  Not sure why.  Dave
> >
> >> On Jun 8, 2016, at 7:16 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> The answer may depend on what make of transmission you have, but my
> Hurth transmission recommends reverse.  If your prop is spinning in
> forward, I would suggest that is not good.  I would recommend reverse.
> Some transmission, I'm told, have the oil pump on the input shaft, so there
> is no lubrication when the engine is stopped.  That's one reason you want
> to make sure the prop is not free-wheeling.  The other reason, of course,
> is drag.
> >>
> >> Gary
> >> S/V Kaylarah
> >> '90 C&C 37+
> >> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> >>
> >>
> >> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Kanzaki recommends neutral for a fixed prop, neutral or reverse for a
fixed/folding prop.  If you have a folding/feathering prop, shifting into
reverse for a few seconds causes the prop to fold or feather.

Joel

On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 9:47 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Aside from drag, I don't see what harm having it is neutral could do to
> the mechanical systems.  That said, if I recall correctly, the MarTec prop
> folks suggest putting it in reverse temporarily to rotate the prop blades
> into a neutral position...but that could just be something I imagined.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C&C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
> > On Jun 8, 2016, at 9:06 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> >
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2016 09:05:42 -0400
> > From: David Knecht 
> > To: CnC CnC discussion list 
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission in forward or reverse while
> >sailing?
> > Message-ID: 
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > Mine recommends reverse but also says the transmission will be damaged
> if left in forward.  Not sure why.  Dave
> >
> >> On Jun 8, 2016, at 7:16 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> The answer may depend on what make of transmission you have, but my
> Hurth transmission recommends reverse.  If your prop is spinning in
> forward, I would suggest that is not good.  I would recommend reverse.
> Some transmission, I'm told, have the oil pump on the input shaft, so there
> is no lubrication when the engine is stopped.  That's one reason you want
> to make sure the prop is not free-wheeling.  The other reason, of course,
> is drag.
> >>
> >> Gary
> >> S/V Kaylarah
> >> '90 C&C 37+
> >> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> >>
> >>
> >> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Scott Wells via CnC-List]

Will do thanks!

On Saturday, May 7, 2016, Joel Aronson  wrote:

> Scott
>
> Go to YouTube and search C&C 35rigging. The first video shows the setup of
> The Office.
>
> Joel
>
> On Friday, May 6, 2016, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List  > wrote:
>
>> Scott,
>>
>>
>>
>> I have 15 years of experience with the 35-3 and my boat is in Hampton
>> VA.  I have done many modifications and upgrades.  I would be glad to share
>> pictures and experiences.
>>
>>
>>
>> Joel, although not a C&C owner for much longer, has plenty of advice and
>> experience to.  There are a couple of other 35-3’s on the bay too.
>>
>>
>>
>> When you have a question, give the list a shout and I’m sure you’ll get
>> some opinions, comments, snide remarks, and maybe some good advice!  We’re
>> a happy clan of C&C owners.
>>
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>>
>>
>> Jake
>>
>>
>>
>> *Jake Brodersen*
>>
>> *C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>>
>> *Hampton VA*
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Scott
>> Wells via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, May 6, 2016 17:28
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Scott Wells 
>> *Subject:* Stus-List (no subject)
>>
>>
>>
>> Bought a 1986 35-3 keeping it on the Upper  Cheaapeake Bay. It is a
>> salvage project so I am looking for other 35-3 owners on the bay to
>> communicate with. More so I would like to visit a boat to look through, ask
>> questions because In the shape I bought her I  not sure how and what is
>> typical and what has been altered. It used to be a St Mary's College race
>> boat.
>>
>> --
>> Captain Scott Wells
>> Sundance Marine Services LLC
>> 443 877 5830
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>


-- 
Captain Scott Wells
Sundance Marine Services LLC
443 877 5830
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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Scott

Go to YouTube and search C&C 35rigging. The first video shows the setup of
The Office.

Joel

On Friday, May 6, 2016, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Scott,
>
>
>
> I have 15 years of experience with the 35-3 and my boat is in Hampton VA.
> I have done many modifications and upgrades.  I would be glad to share
> pictures and experiences.
>
>
>
> Joel, although not a C&C owner for much longer, has plenty of advice and
> experience to.  There are a couple of other 35-3’s on the bay too.
>
>
>
> When you have a question, give the list a shout and I’m sure you’ll get
> some opinions, comments, snide remarks, and maybe some good advice!  We’re
> a happy clan of C&C owners.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On
> Behalf Of *Scott Wells via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, May 6, 2016 17:28
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> 
> *Cc:* Scott Wells  >
> *Subject:* Stus-List (no subject)
>
>
>
> Bought a 1986 35-3 keeping it on the Upper  Cheaapeake Bay. It is a
> salvage project so I am looking for other 35-3 owners on the bay to
> communicate with. More so I would like to visit a boat to look through, ask
> questions because In the shape I bought her I  not sure how and what is
> typical and what has been altered. It used to be a St Mary's College race
> boat.
>
> --
> Captain Scott Wells
> Sundance Marine Services LLC
> 443 877 5830
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Scott,

 

I have 15 years of experience with the 35-3 and my boat is in Hampton VA.  I 
have done many modifications and upgrades.  I would be glad to share pictures 
and experiences.

 

Joel, although not a C&C owner for much longer, has plenty of advice and 
experience to.  There are a couple of other 35-3’s on the bay too.  

 

When you have a question, give the list a shout and I’m sure you’ll get some 
opinions, comments, snide remarks, and maybe some good advice!  We’re a happy 
clan of C&C owners.

 

Cheers,

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Scott Wells 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 6, 2016 17:28
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Scott Wells 
Subject: Stus-List (no subject)

 

Bought a 1986 35-3 keeping it on the Upper  Cheaapeake Bay. It is a salvage 
project so I am looking for other 35-3 owners on the bay to communicate with. 
More so I would like to visit a boat to look through, ask questions because In 
the shape I bought her I  not sure how and what is typical and what has been 
altered. It used to be a St Mary's College race boat. 

-- 
Captain Scott Wells
Sundance Marine Services LLC
443 877 5830

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Lorne,

I had this problem on my 35 too.

In the morning I found that the Seal was gone (Black Seal, used too 
much of it in the Dark n Stormies).


:)

Cheers, Russ
 Sweet 35 mk-1


At 04:42 PM 26/04/2016, you wrote:


Tr
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All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Francois, 

How did you make the holes in the pedestal and the SS guard? Did you use a 
fitting to make it watertight? Got any pictures? 

Chuck 

- Original Message -

From: "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Jean-Francois J Rivard"  
Sent: Friday, April 8, 2016 10:23:26 PM 
Subject: Stus-List (no subject) 



Hi, I ran mine in the pedestal itself. 



You can run it unobtrusively from the pedestal into the guard near the compass 
binnacle. Then you can run that to the pod. 



-Francois Rivard 
1990 34+ "Take Five" 
Lake Lanier, Ga 



Sent from my iPad 



> On Apr 8, 2016, at 1:35 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: 
> 
> Stus-List 37+ and XL (and probably 34's too) Pedestal Guard 
> Wiring 


___ 

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

>From PO I have some through binnacle and GPS zip tied to outside tubing and
through small waterproof deck fitting. At first I just thought it was lazy
to go to deck fitting, but it is much more serviceable and accessible fwiw.

Kevin
89 30-2 Osprey

On Fri, Apr 8, 2016, 7:24 PM Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi, I ran mine in the pedestal itself.
>
> You can run it unobtrusively from the pedestal into the guard near the
> compass binnacle. Then you can run that to the pod.
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, Ga
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Apr 8, 2016, at 1:35 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> >
> > Stus-List 37+ and XL (and probably 34's too) Pedestal Guard
> > Wiring
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Doug Welch via CnC-List]

The current complement is 2 X G27 and 1 X G22NF (smaller than G24). It seems 
like there should be room replace the 22NF with a 24 but we'll see. I will take 
and post a photo next time I'm on the boat.
Cheers,Doug 

On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 5:20 PM, Dave via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 
Hi Doug - went through this think myself, I had the std 33-2 setup of 2 group 
31 (I think...  Could be 34). Deep cycle flooded batteries (batt 1 and 2) and 
an added xantrex smart charger.  Got some advice from a backup power 
designer
Will parallel the existing batteries and add a u1 start battery, switched with 
a blue seas selector/ combiner, (in a panel with 24/7 breakers and no more 
kick-off toggle) an vsr, all monitored by Victron energy bmv-70, which fits the 
stock 2" hole.  Decided against a smart regulator as offering little benefit.  
Fitting that 3rd battery is a trick, would live to know how it was fine in 
yours.
Dave
The stock alternator is fine 




n Sunday, February 28, 2016 9:41 AM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List 
 wrote:




 We have two T12 136ah  ( slightly larger and heavier than a group 27 ) Rolls 
house batteries which are now in their 12th year of service.  I was thinking 
they were near their end of life but a battery equalization last year seems to 
have given them a new lease on life. We replaced a Rolls starting battery after 
11 years. 
 Ed
 1982 LF38
 On Feb 27, 2016 1:20 PM, "Doug Welch via CnC-List"  
wrote:

   Our new (to us) 33-2 has a couple of Surette Group 27 Deep Cycle Batteries 
of indeterminate age in plastic battery boxes with no lid and a Canadian Tire 
22NF starting Battery (In what looks like a home made wooden battery box). 

   My first instinct is to replace the deep cycles with Interstates and upgrade 
the 22NF to a Group 25 Marine Starter Battery in proper battery boxes (I have 
seen first hand how quickly a dropped wrench landing on exposed 12v battery 
terminals can go very bad).

   The charger is a relatively new looking Professional Mariner ProSport 20 
Heavy-Duty Marine Battery Charger. Both banks are monitored by a cruising 
equipment company e-meter.

   My questions are 
   1. Does anyone have 2 G27s and a G25? Is there room?
   2. Someone told me the Surette are very good batteries with longer than 
average life and I shouldn't be in a hurry to replace them. Experience ? 
Thoughts?
   3. Anything else from your experience I should be thinking about?

   Cheers,
   Doug 

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[jtsails via CnC-List]

Currently reading Dewey Lambdin. Not the easiest to read but his books are 
rapidly climbing to the top of favorites list. I also enjoy anything written by 
James L. Nelson. And there are always the traditional picks of C. S. Forester, 
Alexander Kent, and Patrick O’Brian. For a change of pace, I like Randy Wayne 
White’s “ Doc Ford” series and for a light quick read I go to original Clive 
Cussler books. Oh, and I shouldn’t leave out the Dudley Pope “Ramage” series!
James Taylor
“Delaney”
C&C 38 Mk11
Oriental, NC

From: Rick Rohwer via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2016 10:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Rohwer 
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

Chuck 
For my two bits, Sterling Hayden wrote some damn fine books.  They lit me up!

Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA (damn it’s cold)

  On Dec 31, 2015, at 12:58 PM, Dave via CnC-List  wrote:

  Whynott - a new one for the list- thanks.   wanderer is great, re read many 
times.  Sterling Hayden was an intriguing guy, lived through interesting times. 
 Voyage is very good too.  
  Dave


  Message: 12
  Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2015 14:59:18 -0500
  From: "Chuck Gilchrest" 
  To: 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...
  Message-ID: <002101d14405$bc3db160$34b91420$@comcast.net>
  Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"

  All,
  One of my favorite reads that involves sailing and boat building is Douglass
  Whynott's "A Unit of Water, A Unit of Time", which is a non-fiction account
  of the last boat built by Joel White at Brooklin Boatyard in Maine (the son
  of writer EB White as well as being a prolific naval architect).  The book
  is a quiet book, best enjoyed in front of a fireplace with a few Benjamin
  Mendlowitz calendars and coffee table books available for reference photos
  of the various boats mentioned in the text.  
  Chuck Gilchrest
  Half Magic
  1975 25 mk 1
  S/V Orion
  1983 35 Landfall
  Padanaram, MA

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin
  DeYoung via CnC-List
  Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 2:29 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Martin DeYoung 
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...

  Andrew,

  If you enjoy Sterling Hayden's Wanderer, look for a copy of his novel
  "Voyage". IIRC it is set in 1900 and begins on a dark and stormy night in
  Boston harbor.  In short it is a story of a clipper ship hauling coal around
  the horn to San Francisco.

  For years I carried paperback copies of Wanderer or Voyage to read on
  offshore passages and never got tired of re-reading them.

  Martin DeYoung
  Calypso
  1971 C&C 43
  Seattle

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
  Burton via CnC-List
  Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 7:32 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Andrew Burton
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...

  Rereading Wanderer, by Sterling Hayden. Great great book!

  Andrew Burton
  61 W Narragansett
  Newport, RI
  USA02840

  http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
  +401 965-5260


On Dec 30, 2015, at 17:37, Dave via CnC-List 
  wrote:



Just finished 'Moxie' by Phil weld - great book, impressive man.

In the same vein, about t re-read 'around the world alone' by Alain Colas.


  ___
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Chuck
For my two bits, Sterling Hayden wrote some damn fine books.  They lit me up!

Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA (damn it’s cold)

> On Dec 31, 2015, at 12:58 PM, Dave via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Whynott - a new one for the list- thanks.   wanderer is great, re read many 
> times.  Sterling Hayden was an intriguing guy, lived through interesting 
> times.  Voyage is very good too.  
> Dave
> 
> 
> Message: 12
> Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2015 14:59:18 -0500
> From: "Chuck Gilchrest"  >
> To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...
> Message-ID: <002101d14405$bc3db160$34b91420$@comcast.net 
> >
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"
> 
> All,
> One of my favorite reads that involves sailing and boat building is Douglass
> Whynott's "A Unit of Water, A Unit of Time", which is a non-fiction account
> of the last boat built by Joel White at Brooklin Boatyard in Maine (the son
> of writer EB White as well as being a prolific naval architect).  The book
> is a quiet book, best enjoyed in front of a fireplace with a few Benjamin
> Mendlowitz calendars and coffee table books available for reference photos
> of the various boats mentioned in the text.  
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1975 25 mk 1
> S/V Orion
> 1983 35 Landfall 
> Padanaram, MA 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Martin
> DeYoung via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 2:29 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Martin DeYoung mailto:mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...
> 
> Andrew,
> 
> If you enjoy Sterling Hayden's Wanderer, look for a copy of his novel
> "Voyage". IIRC it is set in 1900 and begins on a dark and stormy night in
> Boston harbor.  In short it is a story of a clipper ship hauling coal around
> the horn to San Francisco.
> 
> For years I carried paperback copies of Wanderer or Voyage to read on
> offshore passages and never got tired of re-reading them.
> 
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C&C 43
> Seattle
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> ] On Behalf Of Andrew
> Burton via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 7:32 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc: Andrew Burton
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...
> 
> Rereading Wanderer, by Sterling Hayden. Great great book!
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett 
> Newport, RI 
> USA    02840 
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 
> 
> +401 965-5260 
> 
>> On Dec 30, 2015, at 17:37, Dave via CnC-List > >
> wrote:
>> 
>> Just finished 'Moxie' by Phil weld - great book, impressive man.
>> In the same vein, about t re-read 'around the world alone' by Alain Colas.
> 
> 
> ___
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

As previously mentioned, check the mast step, most of them have sunk a bit. 
There is balsa coring in the hull in some forward panels, however, no issues 
with my boat. It's a great racer/cruiser, fast and fun to sail.

Mike Amirault
C&C 33II  "Lovely Cruise"
SMSC___

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I bought rough Sawn teak from a guy on Craiglist for a couple hundred bucks.  
Enough to make two sets as it turned out.  I made my own with a jig saw, router 
table and used the the old hand rails as templates.  Had them done in a day and 
took over a week at one coat of finish a day for 8 days. I used epiphanies.  
They really came out nice!


From my Android phone

 Original message 
From: Curtis via CnC-List  
Date: 02/22/2015  4:48 PM  (GMT-05:00) 
To: Paul Fountain  
Cc: ""  
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject) 
 
So I ha no Idea it would be so pricy. Here is what I was quoted. Is this a DIY 
project? should I try to make my own?
Help$$$


Solid Teak Handrails:
Qty (2) – 9-Loop
12” Centers
112” overall length
1” Thick
2-1/2” High
4” Pad Bases
Qty (2) – 6-Loop
12” Centers
76” overall length
1” Thick
2-1/2” High
4” Pad Bases
Furnished finish sanded, cleaned, and ready for application of finish coats by 
others.
Pricing:
 
(2) 9-Loop & (2) 6-Loop Solid Teak Handrails - - - - - - - - - - - - $1,070.00
 
Packaging - - - - - - - - - - - - - -  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
- - - - $    55.00
 
Packaging & Shipping via Motor Freight - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $   237.00
 
Total Project - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
-$1,362.00
 
Note:
 
The above prices are valid for thirty (30) days from the date of this proposal. 
 
Delivery:
 
Typically 8 - 12 weeks, dependent upon prior commitments at date of order entry.
 
Payment:

On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 8:04 PM, Paul Fountain  wrote:
Had new ones made for Perception by Mark Bruckmann, Bruckmann Yachts, his dad 
was one of the original 3 builders that formed C&C  Ran the custom shop. 
They look great on the boat!

Sent from my iPad

On Feb 21, 2015, at 5:53 PM, Curtis via CnC-List  wrote:

I need to replace the 9 loop deck rails and 6 loop interior hand rails on my 
C&C30 MK1. they where terrible in shape when i bought the boat 2012. I 
refinished them and rebedded, but they have served the old girl well. I have 
checked the web found a few sources, but I wonder if any owners have found the 
exact replacement ones? Let me know. Thanks for your time. Capt Curt.
-- 
Best regards,

Curtis McDaniel, 

C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
Discover.  -Mark Twain
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/

 


cpt.b...@gmail.com

 

 __/) 

. 



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-- 
Best regards,

Curtis McDaniel, 

C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
Discover.  -Mark Twain
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/

 


cpt.b...@gmail.com

 

 __/) 

. 



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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Antoine Rose via CnC-List]

Easy DIY
Teak is not the only choice. Iroko is an adequate substitute. The original were 
made of mahogany. You can even use recycled pvc planks made for backyard decks 
(not the prettiest, but say adios to varnishing)

DIY, you need a ten feet planks of something, a hole saw (ideally on a 
press-drill) and a router to do the rounding.

Antoine

Le 2015-02-22 à 16:48, Curtis via CnC-List a écrit :

> So I ha no Idea it would be so pricy. Here is what I was quoted. Is this a 
> DIY project? should I try to make my own?
> Help$$$
> 
> 
> Solid Teak Handrails:
> Qty (2) – 9-Loop
> 12” Centers
> 112” overall length
> 1” Thick
> 2-1/2” High
> 4” Pad Bases
> Qty (2) – 6-Loop
> 12” Centers
> 76” overall length
> 1” Thick
> 2-1/2” High
> 4” Pad Bases
> Furnished finish sanded, cleaned, and ready for application of finish coats 
> by others.
> Pricing:
>  
> (2) 9-Loop & (2) 6-Loop Solid Teak Handrails - - - - - - - - - - - - $1,070.00
>  
> Packaging - - - - - - - - - - - - - -  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
> - - - - - $55.00
>  
> Packaging & Shipping via Motor Freight - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $   
> 237.00
>  
> Total Project - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
> - -$1,362.00
>  
> Note:
>  
> The above prices are valid for thirty (30) days from the date of this 
> proposal. 
>  
> Delivery:
>  
> Typically 8 - 12 weeks, dependent upon prior commitments at date of order 
> entry.
>  
> Payment:
> 
> On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 8:04 PM, Paul Fountain  wrote:
> Had new ones made for Perception by Mark Bruckmann, Bruckmann Yachts, his dad 
> was one of the original 3 builders that formed C&C  Ran the custom shop. 
> They look great on the boat!
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
> On Feb 21, 2015, at 5:53 PM, Curtis via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>> I need to replace the 9 loop deck rails and 6 loop interior hand rails on my 
>> C&C30 MK1. they where terrible in shape when i bought the boat 2012. I 
>> refinished them and rebedded, but they have served the old girl well. I have 
>> checked the web found a few sources, but I wonder if any owners have found 
>> the exact replacement ones? Let me know. Thanks for your time. Capt Curt.
>> -- 
>> Best regards,
>> 
>> Curtis McDaniel, 
>> 
>> C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady
>> 
>> Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
>> didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
>> from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
>> Discover.  -Mark Twain
>> http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> cpt.b...@gmail.com
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  __/) 
>> 
>> . 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Best regards,
> 
> Curtis McDaniel, 
> 
> C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady
> 
> Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
> didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
> from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
> Discover.  -Mark Twain
> http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/
> 
>  
> 
> cpt.b...@gmail.com
> 
>  
> 
>  __/) 
> 
> . 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Stainless was $200 a rail and no maintenance for life!
On Feb 22, 2015 4:48 PM, "Curtis via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> So I ha no Idea it would be so pricy. Here is what I was quoted. Is this a
> DIY project? should I try to make my own?
> Help$$$
>
>
> *Solid Teak Handrails:*
>
>- *Qty (2) - 9-Loop*
>   - *12" Centers*
>   - *112" overall length*
>   - *1" Thick*
>   - *2-1/2" High*
>   - *4" Pad Bases*
>- *Qty (2) - 6-Loop*
>   - *12" Centers*
>   - *76" overall length*
>   - *1" Thick*
>   - *2-1/2" High*
>   - *4" Pad Bases*
>- *Furnished finish sanded, cleaned, and ready for application of
>finish coats by others.*
>
> *Pricing:*
>
>
>
> *(2) 9-Loop & (2) 6-Loop Solid Teak Handrails - - - - - - - - - - - -
> $1,070.00*
>
>
>
> *Packaging - - - - - - - - - - - - - -  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> - - - - - - - $55.00*
>
>
>
> *Packaging & Shipping via Motor Freight - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $
> 237.00*
>
>
>
> *Total Project - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
> - - - -$1,362.00*
>
>
>
> *Note:*
>
>
>
> *The above prices are valid for thirty (30) days from the date of this
> proposal. *
>
>
>
> *Delivery:*
>
>
>
> *Typically 8 - 12 weeks, dependent upon prior commitments at date of order
> entry.*
>
>
>
> *Payment:*
>
> On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 8:04 PM, Paul Fountain  wrote:
>
>>  Had new ones made for Perception by Mark Bruckmann, Bruckmann Yachts,
>> his dad was one of the original 3 builders that formed C&C  Ran the
>> custom shop. They look great on the boat!
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Feb 21, 2015, at 5:53 PM, Curtis via CnC-List 
>> wrote:
>>
>>   I need to replace the 9 loop deck rails and 6 loop interior hand
>> rails on my C&C30 MK1. they where terrible in shape when i bought the
>> boat 2012. I refinished them and rebedded, but they have served the old
>> girl well. I have checked the web found a few sources, but I wonder if any
>> owners have found the exact replacement ones? Let me know. Thanks for your
>> time. Capt Curt.
>> --
>>
>> *Best regards,*
>>
>>
>> *Curtis McDaniel, *
>>
>>
>> *C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady *
>>
>> Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that
>> you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
>> away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore.
>> Dream. Discover.  -Mark Twain
>> http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/
>>
>>
>>
>>  *cpt.b...@gmail.com *
>>
>>
>> * __/) *
>>
>> .
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>
>
> --
>
> *Best regards,*
>
>
> *Curtis McDaniel, *
>
>
> *C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*
>
> Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
> didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
> from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
> Discover.  -Mark Twain
> http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
> *cpt.b...@gmail.com *
>
>
> * __/) *
>
> .
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Curtis,

They really aren't hard to make. Just need to get some full 4/4ths teak.  Mark 
out the loops.  Use a hole saw of a radius that matches the curve if the loops 
and drill holes.  The you connect the holes with a jig saw. Next use a router 
to round the oval holes. Finally cut the thing in half lengthwise and sand it. 
Done. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 22, 2015, at 3:48 PM, Curtis via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> So I ha no Idea it would be so pricy. Here is what I was quoted. Is this a 
> DIY project? should I try to make my own?
> Help$$$
> 
> 
> Solid Teak Handrails:
> Qty (2) – 9-Loop
> 12” Centers
> 112” overall length
> 1” Thick
> 2-1/2” High
> 4” Pad Bases
> Qty (2) – 6-Loop
> 12” Centers
> 76” overall length
> 1” Thick
> 2-1/2” High
> 4” Pad Bases
> Furnished finish sanded, cleaned, and ready for application of finish coats 
> by others.
> Pricing:
>  
> (2) 9-Loop & (2) 6-Loop Solid Teak Handrails - - - - - - - - - - - - $1,070.00
>  
> Packaging - - - - - - - - - - - - - -  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
> - - - - - $55.00
>  
> Packaging & Shipping via Motor Freight - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $   
> 237.00
>  
> Total Project - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
> - -$1,362.00
>  
> Note:
>  
> The above prices are valid for thirty (30) days from the date of this 
> proposal. 
>  
> Delivery:
>  
> Typically 8 - 12 weeks, dependent upon prior commitments at date of order 
> entry.
>  
> Payment:
> 
>> On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 8:04 PM, Paul Fountain  wrote:
>> Had new ones made for Perception by Mark Bruckmann, Bruckmann Yachts, his 
>> dad was one of the original 3 builders that formed C&C  Ran the custom 
>> shop. They look great on the boat!
>> 
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>> On Feb 21, 2015, at 5:53 PM, Curtis via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> I need to replace the 9 loop deck rails and 6 loop interior hand rails on 
>>> my C&C30 MK1. they where terrible in shape when i bought the boat 2012. I 
>>> refinished them and rebedded, but they have served the old girl well. I 
>>> have checked the web found a few sources, but I wonder if any owners have 
>>> found the exact replacement ones? Let me know. Thanks for your time. Capt 
>>> Curt.
>>> -- 
>>> Best regards,
>>> 
>>> Curtis McDaniel, 
>>> 
>>> C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady
>>> 
>>> Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
>>> didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
>>> from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
>>> Discover.  -Mark Twain
>>> http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> 
>>> cpt.b...@gmail.com
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  __/) 
>>> 
>>> . 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Best regards,
> 
> Curtis McDaniel, 
> 
> C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady
> 
> Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
> didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
> from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
> Discover.  -Mark Twain
> http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/
> 
>  
> 
> 
> cpt.b...@gmail.com
> 
>  
> 
>  __/) 
> 
> . 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[wwadjourn]

Ouch. Made some for  a buddy this past fall.  Teak cost $126.  Took me about 4 
hours.  Pictures if you email me direct.  I could walk you through it.
Not difficult with table saw, router or shaper table, spindle Sanders or drum 
on a drill, hole saw jig or band saw.  
Bill Walker
wwadjo...@aol.com. 

Sent from my HTC

- Reply message -
From: "Curtis via CnC-List" 
To: "Paul Fountain" 
Cc: "" 
Subject: Stus-List (no subject)
Date: Sun, Feb 22, 2015 4:48 PM

So I ha no Idea it would be so pricy. Here is what I was quoted. Is this a
DIY project? should I try to make my own?
Help$$$


*Solid Teak Handrails:*

- *Qty (2) - 9-Loop*
- *12" Centers*
- *112" overall length*
- *1" Thick*
- *2-1/2" High*
- *4" Pad Bases*
- *Qty (2) - 6-Loop*
- *12" Centers*
- *76" overall length*
- *1" Thick*
- *2-1/2" High*
- *4" Pad Bases*
- *Furnished finish sanded, cleaned, and ready for application of finish
coats by others.*

*Pricing:*



*(2) 9-Loop & (2) 6-Loop Solid Teak Handrails - - - - - - - - - - - -
$1,070.00*



*Packaging - - - - - - - - - - - - - -  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - - - - - $55.00*



*Packaging & Shipping via Motor Freight - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $
237.00*



*Total Project - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - - -$1,362.00*



*Note:*



*The above prices are valid for thirty (30) days from the date of this
proposal. *



*Delivery:*



*Typically 8 - 12 weeks, dependent upon prior commitments at date of order
entry.*



*Payment:*

On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 8:04 PM, Paul Fountain  wrote:

>  Had new ones made for Perception by Mark Bruckmann, Bruckmann Yachts,
> his dad was one of the original 3 builders that formed C&C  Ran the
> custom shop. They look great on the boat!
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Feb 21, 2015, at 5:53 PM, Curtis via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>   I need to replace the 9 loop deck rails and 6 loop interior hand
> rails on my C&C30 MK1. they where terrible in shape when i bought the
> boat 2012. I refinished them and rebedded, but they have served the old
> girl well. I have checked the web found a few sources, but I wonder if any
> owners have found the exact replacement ones? Let me know. Thanks for your
> time. Capt Curt.
> --
>
> *Best regards,*
>
>
> *Curtis McDaniel, *
>
>
> *C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady *
>
> Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
> didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
> from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
> Discover.  -Mark Twain
> http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
>  *cpt.b...@gmail.com *
>
>
> * __/) *
>
> .
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 

*Best regards,*


*Curtis McDaniel, *


*C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover.  -Mark Twain
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



*cpt.b...@gmail.com *


* __/) *

.___

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Curtis via CnC-List]

So I ha no Idea it would be so pricy. Here is what I was quoted. Is this a
DIY project? should I try to make my own?
Help$$$


*Solid Teak Handrails:*

   - *Qty (2) - 9-Loop*
  - *12" Centers*
  - *112" overall length*
  - *1" Thick*
  - *2-1/2" High*
  - *4" Pad Bases*
   - *Qty (2) - 6-Loop*
  - *12" Centers*
  - *76" overall length*
  - *1" Thick*
  - *2-1/2" High*
  - *4" Pad Bases*
   - *Furnished finish sanded, cleaned, and ready for application of finish
   coats by others.*

*Pricing:*



*(2) 9-Loop & (2) 6-Loop Solid Teak Handrails - - - - - - - - - - - -
$1,070.00*



*Packaging - - - - - - - - - - - - - -  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - - - - - $55.00*



*Packaging & Shipping via Motor Freight - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $
237.00*



*Total Project - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - - -$1,362.00*



*Note:*



*The above prices are valid for thirty (30) days from the date of this
proposal. *



*Delivery:*



*Typically 8 - 12 weeks, dependent upon prior commitments at date of order
entry.*



*Payment:*

On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 8:04 PM, Paul Fountain  wrote:

>  Had new ones made for Perception by Mark Bruckmann, Bruckmann Yachts,
> his dad was one of the original 3 builders that formed C&C  Ran the
> custom shop. They look great on the boat!
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Feb 21, 2015, at 5:53 PM, Curtis via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>   I need to replace the 9 loop deck rails and 6 loop interior hand
> rails on my C&C30 MK1. they where terrible in shape when i bought the
> boat 2012. I refinished them and rebedded, but they have served the old
> girl well. I have checked the web found a few sources, but I wonder if any
> owners have found the exact replacement ones? Let me know. Thanks for your
> time. Capt Curt.
> --
>
> *Best regards,*
>
>
> *Curtis McDaniel, *
>
>
> *C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady *
>
> Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
> didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
> from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
> Discover.  -Mark Twain
> http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/
>
>
>
>  *cpt.b...@gmail.com *
>
>
> * __/) *
>
> .
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 

*Best regards,*


*Curtis McDaniel, *


*C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover.  -Mark Twain
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



*cpt.b...@gmail.com *


* __/) *

.
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Had new ones made for Perception by Mark Bruckmann, Bruckmann Yachts, his dad 
was one of the original 3 builders that formed C&C  Ran the custom shop. 
They look great on the boat!

Sent from my iPad

On Feb 21, 2015, at 5:53 PM, Curtis via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I need to replace the 9 loop deck rails and 6 loop interior hand rails on my 
C&C30 MK1. they where terrible in shape when i bought the boat 2012. I 
refinished them and rebedded, but they have served the old girl well. I have 
checked the web found a few sources, but I wonder if any owners have found the 
exact replacement ones? Let me know. Thanks for your time. Capt Curt.
--

Best regards,

Curtis McDaniel,

C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
Discover.  -Mark Twain
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



cpt.b...@gmail.com



 __/) 

.



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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Bill Bina via CnC-List]

  
  
I got exact replacements from a place
  in Florida that makes all sorts of things out of teak. You are
  correct that the ones carried by all the big retailers do not have
  the correct 12 inch  spacing. 
  
  
  
  Make sure to specify NO FINISH when you order or they will come
  with a rubbed oil finish that you will have to strip before
  applying any varnish. 
  
  Bill Bina
  
  
  On 2/21/2015 7:19 PM, Steve Thomas via CnC-List wrote:


  
  
  
  No one stocks exact replacements.
  You either have to get them made, or make them yourself. The
  "loops" on the stock items are shorter for one thing, and
  there is no way to match them up with the holes in your boat.

   
  Steve Thomas
  C&C27 MKIII
  
- Original Message -

  


  


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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Steve Thomas via CnC-List]

No one stocks exact replacements. You either have to get them made, or make 
them yourself. The "loops" on the stock items are shorter for one thing, and 
there is no way to match them up with the holes in your boat. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
  - Original Message - 
  From: Curtis via CnC-List 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2015 17:52
  Subject: Stus-List (no subject)


  I need to replace the 9 loop deck rails and 6 loop interior hand rails on my 
C&C30 MK1. they where terrible in shape when i bought the boat 2012. I 
refinished them and rebedded, but they have served the old girl well. I have 
checked the web found a few sources, but I wonder if any owners have found the 
exact replacement ones? Let me know. Thanks for your time. Capt Curt.
  -- 

  Best regards,

  Curtis McDaniel, 


  C&C 30-MK1 East Coast Lady


  Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
Discover.  -Mark Twain
  http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/




  cpt.b...@gmail.com



   __/) 

  . 






--


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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Are the set-screws doubled up?  Maybe that's the problem.  I discoverd that
the hard way on my shaft seal.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jan 24, 2015 8:41 AM, "Jake Brodersen via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Spencer,
>
>
>
> The cap on the rudder should unscrew very easily.  Mine spins easily once
> the set screws are removed.  It shouldn't need a wrench at all.  If you
> haven't lifted the rudder slightly to take the pressure off the donut, that
> could be the cause.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *"Midnight Mistress"*
>
> *C&C 35 Mk-III*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Spencer
> Johnson via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, January 23, 2015 11:42 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List (no subject)
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi DavidI have a 1984 LF38 that should be close to yours...we are now 
> dropping the rudder every winter to prevent freezup.  My wite and I can get 
> it down ok, but it takes a bit of help from other sailors to get it back in.  
> I have 2 set screws in the cap on the rudder shaft that need to be loosened.  
> I end up using a pipe wrench to unscrew/screw the cap.  To minimize damage to 
> the cap nut I wrap it with Gorilla Tape.  I have heard of exhaust hose being 
> used...if you can get a good grip.  Tried the flexible wrenches like for an 
> oil filterno dice...takes much more force.  I wish there was a way to 
> make it easier...10 minutes with a big pipe wrench and she is off!   I drop 
> it onto a sawhorse with blocks.  I also make a bit of a netting with rope 
> around the bottom of the rudder and tied over the top...kinda like wrapping a 
> package with ribbon...but it makes it much easier to grab the rudder as we 
> ease it down.  Once down, and wangeled onto a two wheeler, I can put the 
> shaft on my shoulder and move it around to the car pretty easily.  One more 
> thought.I clean the shaft with a drill, 2-3 18" extensions, and a fine 
> scotchbrite like (red) buffing wheel soaked in kerosene to get all of the old 
> lube out.
>
> Hope that helpsGood Luck!
>
> Spencer Johnson
>
> 1984 LF38 #165 Alegria
>
> Racine, WI in the summer
>
> Waukegan, IL in the Winter
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Spencer,

 

The cap on the rudder should unscrew very easily.  Mine spins easily once
the set screws are removed.  It shouldn't need a wrench at all.  If you
haven't lifted the rudder slightly to take the pressure off the donut, that
could be the cause.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

"Midnight Mistress"

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Spencer
Johnson via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2015 11:42 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

 

 

Hi DavidI have a 1984 LF38 that should be close to yours...we are now
dropping the rudder every winter to prevent freezup.  My wite and I can get
it down ok, but it takes a bit of help from other sailors to get it back in.
I have 2 set screws in the cap on the rudder shaft that need to be loosened.
I end up using a pipe wrench to unscrew/screw the cap.  To minimize damage
to the cap nut I wrap it with Gorilla Tape.  I have heard of exhaust hose
being used...if you can get a good grip.  Tried the flexible wrenches like
for an oil filterno dice...takes much more force.  I wish there was a
way to make it easier...10 minutes with a big pipe wrench and she is off!
I drop it onto a sawhorse with blocks.  I also make a bit of a netting with
rope around the bottom of the rudder and tied over the top...kinda like
wrapping a package with ribbon...but it makes it much easier to grab the
rudder as we ease it down.  Once down, and wangeled onto a two wheeler, I
can put the shaft on my shoulder and move it around to the car pretty
easily.  One more thought.I clean the shaft with a drill, 2-3 18"
extensions, and a fine scotchbrite like (red) buffing wheel soaked in
kerosene to get all of the old lube out.
Hope that helpsGood Luck!
Spencer Johnson
1984 LF38 #165 Alegria
Racine, WI in the summer
Waukegan, IL in the Winter

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Spencer Johnson via CnC-List]

Hi DavidI have a 1984 LF38 that should be close to yours...we are now 
dropping the rudder every winter to prevent freezup.  My wite and I can get it 
down ok, but it takes a bit of help from other sailors to get it back in.  I 
have 2 set screws in the cap on the rudder shaft that need to be loosened.  I 
end up using a pipe wrench to unscrew/screw the cap.  To minimize damage to the 
cap nut I wrap it with Gorilla Tape.  I have heard of exhaust hose being 
used...if you can get a good grip.  Tried the flexible wrenches like for an oil 
filterno dice...takes much more force.  I wish there was a way to make it 
easier...10 minutes with a big pipe wrench and she is off!   I drop it onto a 
sawhorse with blocks.  I also make a bit of a netting with rope around the 
bottom of the rudder and tied over the top...kinda like wrapping a package with 
ribbon...but it makes it much easier to grab the rudder as we ease it down.  
Once down, and wangeled onto a two wheeler, I can put the shaft on my shoulder 
and move it around to the car pretty easily.  One more thought.I clean the 
shaft with a drill, 2-3 18" extensions, and a fine scotchbrite like (red) 
buffing wheel soaked in kerosene to get all of the old lube out.
Hope that helpsGood Luck!
Spencer Johnson
1984 LF38 #165 Alegria
Racine, WI in the summer
Waukegan, IL in the Winter

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Lee Youngblood]

Hi Andrew,

You should always expect water in the forward part of the bilge, it 
comes down the mast.  All the openings and lines will feed water 
down.  The forward part of my bilge was partitioned off with a 
separate pump, which I didn't know about, till it made a wicked 
racket at 4am of course.  The pump doesn't get it all, so I vacuum it 
out occasionally.  Clean it out and see if it's rain water or salt 
water.


If you don't have a smile, than I wouldn't worry much about the keel.

Sail the boat, Lee
Simplicity 1974 35-II
Seattle


--
Lee Youngblood  (425) 444-9109

Your Shilshole Sailboat Broker

Gig Harbor Yacht Sales | Seattle
Office @ Dockside Solutions
7001 Seaview Avenue #160
Seattle, WA 98117
New Office Phone (206) 707-1778

GHYS website:  http://www.1gigharbor.com/


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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[dwight]

Andrew

 

I replaced all the washers on the keel bolts on Alianna with 3/8 stainless
plate.  The keel bolts may need to be torqued, including the one under the
mast.   Before torquing the bolts, depending on how serious the leak is,
(like is the bilge filled with water now or if it were full then how bad
would the leak be) you may be able to grind into the joint on either side
back aft as far as you have to and force some compound into the joint after
you clean it out.  I did that on my 35 MKII and I filled the cavity I
created at the joint with 3M 5200.  That will prevent leaking from the
outside into the boat after launch and when you torque the keel bolts and
replace the washers with something more substantial or use at least 2
washers per bolt you can also put compound (4200 0r 5200) around the bolts
where they come up through the hull…I used a lot so that it squished out all
around as I torqued the nuts.  That was 8 years ago and no problems.  Torque
Specs are on the cnc site.  You will need a ¾ in drive and some large (I
think 11/4 and 11/2) deep sockets and about a 1-2 foot long extension on the
drive and a force multiplier on the socket handle…I used a 4 foot long
section of steel pipe…don’t jerk the socket, just steady pull and when you
use the pipe extension you only have enough room for one click on the
ratchet at a time

 

I would expect the keel bolts to be fine and the nuts too…I would definitely
try that before doing a total removal and re-bedding of the keel…On the
outside, after the 5200 cures a bit you can fair with car body filler or you
can epoxy over the entire joint with glass reinforced epoxy and then fair.

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of andrew
rothweiler
Sent: April 24, 2014 2:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List (no subject)

 

Hello all,

Just returned from the trip to look at a C&C 35-2.  I only saw two things
that concerned me (I'm no expert of course and I'd have a thorough survey),
and I'm writing too ask people's opinions on these two issues.

First, at the keel to hull joint, directly under the mast, there was water
weeping through the joint onto both sides of the keel.  Also, if not
mistaken, I believe that the forward keel bolt, which is under the mast and
can't be seen unless the mast is removed, is in this location on a vertical
plane.  Is this weeping at the hull/keel joint a serious concern? (i.e. is
it enough not to waste money on a survey?) Is it likely that there is water
running from the bilge or through the mast, past the keel bolt under the
mast (hence a potentially comprised/rusty keel bolt under the mast?) and
coming out through the joint?  1) the owner has had the boat shrink wrapped
and on the hard for the last three years, and told me that winds this winter
have blown the shrink wrap off the boat, and this spring is the first time
the weeping has occurred. 2)  The entire hull keel joint looked to me to be
very good or excellent, no smile visible, and the bottom looked pretty
smooth with a near perfect coat of fresh bottom paint.

Second,  the washer on the center (lowest in the bilge?) keel bolt was
extremely rusty. The other visible keel bolts and washers looked very good.
I don't remember if the center keel bolt itself was rusty. Also,  the
gelcoat surface of the bottom of the keel was spider cracked pretty
thoroughly, I thought at the time that this was superficial and cosmetic.
Are the rusty keel bolt washer and the spider cracked surface of the bilge
potential areas of concern?

Thank you in advance for any guidance here.

 

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Della Barba, Joe]

My keel bolts all had steel backing plates that were rusting to pieces. I 
replaced them with stainless steel. Not a hard job out of the water if you have 
a B-A-S (big..socket)

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of andrew 
rothweiler
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2014 1:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List (no subject)

Hello all,
Just returned from the trip to look at a C&C 35-2.  I only saw two things that 
concerned me (I'm no expert of course and I'd have a thorough survey),  and I'm 
writing too ask people's opinions on these two issues.
First, at the keel to hull joint, directly under the mast, there was water 
weeping through the joint onto both sides of the keel.  Also, if not mistaken, 
I believe that the forward keel bolt, which is under the mast and can't be seen 
unless the mast is removed, is in this location on a vertical plane.  Is this 
weeping at the hull/keel joint a serious concern? (i.e. is it enough not to 
waste money on a survey?) Is it likely that there is water running from the 
bilge or through the mast, past the keel bolt under the mast (hence a 
potentially comprised/rusty keel bolt under the mast?) and coming out through 
the joint?  1) the owner has had the boat shrink wrapped and on the hard for 
the last three years, and told me that winds this winter have blown the shrink 
wrap off the boat, and this spring is the first time the weeping has occurred. 
2)  The entire hull keel joint looked to me to be very good or excellent, no 
smile visible, and the bottom looked pretty smooth with a near perfect coat of 
fresh bottom paint.
Second,  the washer on the center (lowest in the bilge?) keel bolt was 
extremely rusty. The other visible keel bolts and washers looked very good. I 
don't remember if the center keel bolt itself was rusty. Also,  the gelcoat 
surface of the bottom of the keel was spider cracked pretty thoroughly, I 
thought at the time that this was superficial and cosmetic. Are the rusty keel 
bolt washer and the spider cracked surface of the bilge potential areas of 
concern?
Thank you in advance for any guidance here.

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Peter Fell]

Try right-clicking on the button and ‘open in new tab’'. Takes a long time to 
open but it did for me. Ads (all 3 of them!) have quite a delay on them too.

From: Curtis 
Sent: Monday, January 06, 2014 5:22 AM
To: andrew rothweiler ; cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

Its not working 




On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 7:11 PM, andrew rothweiler  wrote:

  Regarding the CNC Photo Album site, I've tried several times clicking in the 
"Classified Ads" button, but can't get it to open.  Could be my randomly faulty 
computer; otherwise, is the classified section working? Thanks

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  http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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-- 
“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat





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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[dwight]

Just tried the Classified Ads section, works fine for me but takes 5-10
seconds to load.there is not much on it but it does work, at least on my
machine

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
Sent: January 6, 2014 9:22 AM
To: andrew rothweiler; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

 

Its not working

 

 

On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 7:11 PM, andrew rothweiler  wrote:

Regarding the CNC Photo Album site, I've tried several times clicking in the
"Classified Ads" button, but can't get it to open.  Could be my randomly
faulty computer; otherwise, is the classified section working? Thanks


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-- 
"Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should
really be running the world." - Nicholas Monsarrat

  _  

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Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3658/6479 - Release Date: 01/06/14

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Curtis]

Its not working



On Sun, Jan 5, 2014 at 7:11 PM, andrew rothweiler  wrote:

> Regarding the CNC Photo Album site, I've tried several times clicking in
> the "Classified Ads" button, but can't get it to open.  Could be my
> randomly faulty computer; otherwise, is the classified section working?
> Thanks
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
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should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[dwight veinot]

If I recall correctly that repair or rebuild job on a 33-2 could involve a
little more than a simple mast step rebuild, as if any mast step rebuild
were a simple thing to do in the first place.  I recall reading an account
from one contributor on this list who reported first hand about exactly that
repair on a 33-2 and I seem to recall that more extensive work was involved
and that one could expect to spend in the neighbourhood of $20,000 to have
the job done properly.  That said, the 33-2 is a beautiful design that has
good speed potential and sails very well to weather but the very issue that
Andrew has raised was a major concern when I chose to pass on a 33-2 in
favour of a boat that was 10 years older,  my C&C 35 MKII that I have now
sailed very happily for nearly 10 years now with no structural issues.
Alianna is now in her 39th year and going strong and looking good.  All
sailboats require some regular upkeep and repair but probably most would
agree that structural integrity in the mast step / keel sump is a very high
priority issue. 

 

Dwight Veinot

C&C 35 MKII, Alianna

Head of St. Margaret's Bay, NS

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
Sent: July 23, 2013 12:11 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

 

Andrew,

Many of us have had to rebuild our mast step.  It's really not a big deal.

Many early C&C's had an unprotected, unencapsulated wooden mast steps.  The
one on my 35-1 was simply 3-4 pieces of marine ply bonded together and cut
to bridge across the bilge.  After years in the wet environment the wood got
saturated and lost strength.  I installed a hydraulic backstay adjuster.
The first time I tensioned it, I shoved the mast down into the bilge a
couple inches.  Oops!

If the boat you're looking at has a weak step, it's not a deal breaker.  You
have to mark and measure everything around the mast step, pull the rig,
scrape out the old rotted step and build a new step.  You can order thick
fiberglass sheets and cut them to fit and glass them in.  You can shape a
piece of white oak to rebuild it.  You can do like I did and build up a
solid glass step with a limber hole underneath for drainage.  If you're
fairly handy with West System epoxy or fiberglass resin, it's not a huge
job.

The only critical thing is measure, measure, measure so the new step is the
same elevation as the old one.

You have lots of help here on the list.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

 

 


  _  


From: andrew rothweiler 
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 9:50 PM
Subject: Stus-List (no subject)

 

Hello,

It's really helpful and informative to read the posts on this list, thanks
to all who contribute.

 

I'm have  a 33-2 under contract, but have heard about a potential keel/mast
step issue with this model, having to do with a collapsing grid. I've tried
to research this on the C&C site on Sailnet, but there's little info going
back to 2008 posts. Guess I'll find out more from the survey.

 

Can anyone guide me to a source of info about this?  Should such a problem
eliminate a specific boat from consideration? Is the proper repair very
expensive? Sounds like it would be.

 

Thanks in advance for any help with this.


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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3204/6010 - Release Date: 07/22/13

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Dennis C.]

Andrew,

Many of us have had to rebuild our mast step.  It's really not a big deal.

Many early C&C's had an unprotected, unencapsulated wooden mast steps.  The one 
on my 35-1 was simply 3-4 pieces of marine ply bonded together and cut to 
bridge across the bilge.  After years in the wet environment the wood got 
saturated and lost strength.  I installed a hydraulic backstay adjuster.  The 
first time I tensioned it, I shoved the mast down into the bilge a couple 
inches.  Oops!

If the boat you're looking at has a weak step, it's not a deal breaker.  You 
have to mark and measure everything around the mast step, pull the rig, scrape 
out the old rotted step and build a new step.  You can order thick fiberglass 
sheets and cut them to fit and glass them in.  You can shape a piece of white 
oak to rebuild it.  You can do like I did and build up a solid glass step with 
a limber hole underneath for drainage.  If you're fairly handy with West System 
epoxy or fiberglass resin, it's not a huge job.

The only critical thing is measure, measure, measure so the new step is the 
same elevation as the old one.

You have lots of help here on the list.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA





>
> From: andrew rothweiler 
>To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
>Sent: Monday, July 22, 2013 9:50 PM
>Subject: Stus-List (no subject)
> 
>
>
>Hello,
>It's really helpful and informative to read the posts on this list, thanks to 
>all who contribute.
> 
>I'm have  a 33-2 under contract, but have heard about a potential keel/mast 
>step issue with this model, having to do with a collapsing grid. I've tried to 
>research this on the C&C site on Sailnet, but there's little info going back 
>to 2008 posts. Guess I'll find out more from the survey.
> 
>Can anyone guide me to a source of info about this?  Should such a problem 
>eliminate a specific boat from consideration? Is the proper repair very 
>expensive? Sounds like it would be.
> 
>Thanks in advance for any help with this.
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>
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Joel Aronson]

Bob
No I will connect it to the plotter.

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1%7C344%7C2028691%7C2028908&id=1849984

Joel Aronson


On Mar 22, 2013, at 6:37 PM, Bob Moriarty  wrote:

Joel,
Is this the SI-TEX unit that you were looking at?
http://www.si-tex.com/index.php/product-information/ais/sas-300-ais-class-b-ais-transceiver-detail

Although I don't have any of their hardware, I like the SI-TEX brand. They
seem to occupy the "value" space. Value, like free wind, = good.  :-)

Full disclosure: I'm just a day-sailor who rarely ventures outside the
mouth of the St Johns River in Florida. Despite this, I bought an MilTech
AIS receiver 6 or 7 years ago because I thought it was really cool and
relatively inexpensive. It once picked up the signal from an old tugboat in
for repairs at Green Cove Springs. w00t.

As for AIS (receivers), do folks think that a radar-like display of
approaching targets is OK or even perhaps optimal?
Or, is it be important to be able to put the nearby boats in the context of
a chart?

I know that many chart-plotters can interpret and display AIS data and
predict potential collisions. But, might this be a good case for having a
standalone unit, dedicated for nearby "situational awareness" - kinda like
radar I suppose. Probably depends upon one's situation.  :-)

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Fri, Mar 22, 2013 at 12:14 PM, Joel Aronson wrote:

> I've been looking at the Si Tex. built in GPS antenna. Good Price.
>
> Joel Aronson
>
>
> On Mar 22, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Persuasion  wrote:
>
> > Hey Fellow C&Cers
> >
> > Thinking about my next boat project.  I'm looking for advise on an  AIS
> transponder.  I'm thinking about a Class B.  Anyone been down this road
> that can help?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > --
> > Mike
> > S/V Persuasion
> > C&C 37 K/CB
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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>

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Bob Moriarty]

Joel,
Is this the SI-TEX unit that you were looking at?
http://www.si-tex.com/index.php/product-information/ais/sas-300-ais-class-b-ais-transceiver-detail

Although I don't have any of their hardware, I like the SI-TEX brand. They
seem to occupy the "value" space. Value, like free wind, = good.  :-)

Full disclosure: I'm just a day-sailor who rarely ventures outside the
mouth of the St Johns River in Florida. Despite this, I bought an MilTech
AIS receiver 6 or 7 years ago because I thought it was really cool and
relatively inexpensive. It once picked up the signal from an old tugboat in
for repairs at Green Cove Springs. w00t.

As for AIS (receivers), do folks think that a radar-like display of
approaching targets is OK or even perhaps optimal?
Or, is it be important to be able to put the nearby boats in the context of
a chart?

I know that many chart-plotters can interpret and display AIS data and
predict potential collisions. But, might this be a good case for having a
standalone unit, dedicated for nearby "situational awareness" - kinda like
radar I suppose. Probably depends upon one's situation.  :-)

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Fri, Mar 22, 2013 at 12:14 PM, Joel Aronson wrote:

> I've been looking at the Si Tex. built in GPS antenna. Good Price.
>
> Joel Aronson
>
>
> On Mar 22, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Persuasion  wrote:
>
> > Hey Fellow C&Cers
> >
> > Thinking about my next boat project.  I'm looking for advise on an  AIS
> transponder.  I'm thinking about a Class B.  Anyone been down this road
> that can help?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > --
> > Mike
> > S/V Persuasion
> > C&C 37 K/CB
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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>
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Frederick G Street]

On Mar 22, 2013, at 12:21 PM, "Della Barba, Joe"  
wrote:

> Nothing stopping anyone from using Class A but the .

True.  But I stand by my statement, using the word "generally".  Here's more on 
the differences between Class A and Class B:

> The International Maritime Organization (IMO) and the International 
> Convention for the Safety of Life at Sea (SOLAS) requires AIS to be fitted 
> aboard international voyaging ships with gross tonnage of 300, cargo ships of 
> 500 gross tonnage and all passenger ships regardless of size.
> 
> There are several important functional differences between AIS Class A and 
> Class B transponders.  
>   - Class A meets the requirements of the IMO AIS carriage requirements and 
> is standardized in SOLAS, while the Class B provides capabilities which are 
> not fully compliant with IMO requirements. 
>   - A main difference is the data communication technology; Class A units 
> utilize Self-Organizing Time-Division Multiple Access (SOTDMA) technology.  
> This technology ensures that VHF transmissions of different transponders do 
> not occur at the same time by synchronizing their data transmission to an 
> exact timing standard, providing that no transmissions are missed.  Class B 
> units utilize Carrier-Sense TDMA (CSTDMA), which listens to the AIS network 
> to determine if a slot is being used. Once the unit determines that the slot 
> is open, it powers up its transmitter and broadcasts a 1 slot position 
> report.  The Class B is also required to listen for reservations from base 
> stations and comply with these reservations. If the unit cannot find an open 
> slot, it will not broadcast.  
>   - The reporting intervals are lower with a Class B transponder than a Class 
> A transponder. 
>   - The transmitted AIS data from a Class B transponder is limited; a Class A 
> transponder transmits and receives all required AIS data
> 


IF you go Class A, be prepared to be constantly changing your AIS data as far 
as Navigational Status (underway using engine, underway sailing, moored, at 
anchor, etc.), as this data is required to be in the Class A AIS datastream.  
Class B is a lot simpler, and really geared toward recreational use.  Class A 
transponders also use significantly more power than Class B, not a non-issue to 
sailors.  I don't see any benefit to spending the extra $$$, unless you think 
you'll be more visible to large vessels as a Class A vessel; that's a subject 
still being debated:

http://www.panbo.com/archives/2010/04/the_class_b_ais_filtering_myth_revisited_argh.html

http://www.panbo.com/archives/2010/12/class_b_ais_filtering_the_word_from_dr_norris.html


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Della Barba, Joe]

Nothing stopping anyone from using Class A but the .

Class A $2700: 
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=1220215&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50157&subdeptNum=50177&classNum=50183

Class B with display $950 : 
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=750085&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50157&subdeptNum=50177&classNum=50183

Class B black box $560: 
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=795855&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50157&subdeptNum=50177&classNum=50183

Class B black box $450: 
http://www.milltechmarine.com/AMEC-CAMINO-101-Class-B-AIS-Transponder_p_214.html

What I have rec only $190: 
http://www.milltechmarine.com/Smart-Radio-SR161-AIS-Receiver_p_167.html



Joe Della Barba
COQUINA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Frederick G 
Street
Sent: Friday, March 22, 2013 11:44 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

Class A is generally considered only to be for commercial vessels; Class B was 
designed for vessels not required to have Class A, namely recreational vessels.

You could easily drop $3k for a good Class A unit; I'd rather spend $600 on a 
Class B.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 22, 2013, at 9:58 AM, "Della Barba, Joe" 
mailto:joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov>> wrote:


I have an AIS receiver-only and love it. Class A is "better", as in more power 
and more frequent broadcasts, but it uses more power and costs about 5 times as 
much.
Beware the FleaBay AIS units. Many of them seem to come from ship breakers in 
India and are missing parts. Also note many Class A units run on 24 volts.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On 
Behalf Of Persuasion
Sent: Friday, March 22, 2013 10:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Stus-List (no subject)

Hey Fellow C&Cers

Thinking about my next boat project.  I'm looking for advise on an  AIS 
transponder.  I'm thinking about a Class B.  Anyone been down this road that 
can help?

Thanks

--
Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 K/CB
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Joel Aronson]

I've been looking at the Si Tex. built in GPS antenna. Good Price.

Joel Aronson


On Mar 22, 2013, at 10:49 AM, Persuasion  wrote:

> Hey Fellow C&Cers
>
> Thinking about my next boat project.  I'm looking for advise on an  AIS 
> transponder.  I'm thinking about a Class B.  Anyone been down this road that 
> can help?
>
> Thanks
>
> --
> Mike
> S/V Persuasion
> C&C 37 K/CB
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Frederick G Street]

Class A is generally considered only to be for commercial vessels; Class B was 
designed for vessels not required to have Class A, namely recreational vessels.

You could easily drop $3k for a good Class A unit; I'd rather spend $600 on a 
Class B.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Mar 22, 2013, at 9:58 AM, "Della Barba, Joe"  wrote:

> I have an AIS receiver-only and love it. Class A is “better”, as in more 
> power and more frequent broadcasts, but it uses more power and costs about 5 
> times as much.
> Beware the FleaBay AIS units. Many of them seem to come from ship breakers in 
> India and are missing parts. Also note many Class A units run on 24 volts.
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina C&C 35 MK I
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Persuasion
> Sent: Friday, March 22, 2013 10:49 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List (no subject)
>  
> Hey Fellow C&Cers
> 
> Thinking about my next boat project.  I'm looking for advise on an  AIS 
> transponder.  I'm thinking about a Class B.  Anyone been down this road that 
> can help?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> -- 
> Mike
> S/V Persuasion
> C&C 37 K/CB
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Della Barba, Joe]

I have an AIS receiver-only and love it. Class A is "better", as in more power 
and more frequent broadcasts, but it uses more power and costs about 5 times as 
much.
Beware the FleaBay AIS units. Many of them seem to come from ship breakers in 
India and are missing parts. Also note many Class A units run on 24 volts.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina C&C 35 MK I

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Persuasion
Sent: Friday, March 22, 2013 10:49 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List (no subject)

Hey Fellow C&Cers

Thinking about my next boat project.  I'm looking for advise on an  AIS 
transponder.  I'm thinking about a Class B.  Anyone been down this road that 
can help?

Thanks

--
Mike
S/V Persuasion
C&C 37 K/CB
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Joel Aronson]

Be safe!

Joel

On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 3:33 PM, Dennis C.  wrote:

> Well, the storm prep is done. Now we wait.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
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-- 
Joel
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