One thing that seems to work fairly well is that if you have the 2nd
RX, you can have both on AM, but shift the 2nd RX by around 2.7kHz or
2.8kHz with respect to the 1st RX. In effect, it gives you AM
bandwidth of about 5.6kHz. Of course that means you don't get diversity RX.
73 de David M0DHO
Hi All,
I have found Rose's web page but get lost in the amount of detail. I
can not find the prices and am put off because of plethora of information
which to my old mind lacks organization. How does one get to the prices?
73 Doug EI2CN
-Original Message-
There is another maker of dust covers for Elecraft rigs, Doug. They are
at
http://www.radiodustcovers.com/ELECRAFT.html
I have these covers on my K1, K2 and K3 and am very pleased with them.
73 de David G4DMP
In a recent message, Doug Turnbull turnb...@net1.ie writes
I have found Rose's
Alan Bloom wrote:
The paint must also be removed from the sheet metal around each of the
points where it attaches to the 2D fasteners.
My recent P3 metalwork had much more paint underneath the spray masking
tape than the 3-y-o K3 had. It needed a vicious stainless steel scratch
pen to clean
From the mobile
On May 4, 2011, at 1:17 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:
I'm surprised that RIGrunner or MFJ or somebody doesn't make a 12V
distribution system with a remote on/off control that could be
connected to the K3 switched 12V output.
It's actually a piece of
I have been using an ALS-600, the 600-watt Ameritron solid state amp, for two
years. My shack is wired for 120 volts, 20 amps, 2 circuits.
The voltage from the power supply drops only slightly when transmitting, almost
surely from internal factors, not house wiring. The AC mains voltage does
From the mobile
On May 4, 2011, at 1:17 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com wrote:
I'm surprised that RIGrunner or MFJ or somebody doesn't make a 12V
distribution system with a remote on/off control that could be
connected to the K3 switched 12V output.
It's actually a piece of
The web site is:
http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/7058736_hZbo4
Look at the top of the page where it clearly says:
Rose Kopp N7HKW, makes beautiful covers and carrying cases for Elecraft
radios and related equipment.
Email Rose at elecraftcov...@gmail.com for details and pricing.
Tel:
An external relay (or FET) switch box controlled by the K3 is certainly the
way to go, and is the simplest project imaginable. The builder can
configure it for their choice of DC connectors. I built one here several
months ago when I first got my P3. In addition to providing as much current
for
If you have a dedicated 120V circuit for your ham shack and only run one
transceiver and one medium power amp you will probably be OK. The trouble
comes
from using a house circuit that already has other users and was designed for
those users. Many house circuits use #14 wire and are good for
Any news of KPA-500 assy.manual.
73,Nandu
K3 # 282
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When I was a teenage novice in the early 1970's, armed only with a
Heathkit HW-16, 15 meters became my favorite band. It was a reliable
source of DX contacts even when my entire antenna system was a
multiband inverted-V a few feet off the roof.
15 m, as well as the other high HF bands (12
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That's great and I like the idea, but with a variable S7 to S9 noise floor
here, I find the K3 stops all the time - would you expect that or am I doing
something wrong?
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108
--
For all our conceits about being the center of the universe, we live in a
routine planet of a
If there's a high noise floor, try the following, in this order:
- Turn off the preamp, and possibly even turn on the attenuator
(SCAN is pretty sensitive, so it will stop on real signals above
the noise floor even with the attenuator on)
- Narrow the filter bandwidth and slow down the
Move to the countryside with no urban noise - go live in the middle of texas :-)
Thanks Wayne, very good things to try there.
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108
--
Two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity.
But I'm not so sure about the universe. -- Albert Einstein.
On 4 May 2011,
You could use the SQL control to set the threshold up to the noise
floor. I use scan all the time with an S4 noise level, and the SQL
helps a lot.
matt W6NIA
On Wed, 04 May 2011 16:36:02 +0100, you wrote:
That's great and I like the idea, but with a variable S7 to S9 noise floor
here, I find
Ho, David...
Living in the middle of Texas -- LOFL or IASMBG (I almost swallowed
my bubble-gum -- what you might call a gob-stopper).
Actually, I am not sure that the middle of Texas is quiet...lots of
dry wind to generate static charge/discharge...I suggest Ruby, Alaska,
or
Had forgotten that K3 had SQL - good point
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108
--
Do not pray for tasks equal to your powers; pray for powers equal to your
tasks. -Phillips Brooks, bishop and orator (1835-1893)
On 4 May 2011, at 17:00, Matt Zilmer wrote:
You could use the SQL control to set the
Wayne,
Which signal's level does the K2's controller watch when scanning?
73, Wayne (still studying for the test)
On 05/04/11 08:00, Wayne Burdick wrote:
...But the K2
and K3 have a SCAN feature that lets the radio do the work, while you
answer email, work on homebrew projects, clean up the
The V_SMTR line on the control board, which is still live even when
the receiver is muted.
Good luck with the test!
73,
Wayne
N6KR
Wayne Conrad wrote:
Which signal's level does the K2's controller watch when scanning?
73, Wayne (still studying for the test)
Or you can do it by scrounging. :)
At work, we had 4 Furman MP-15 remote switched power relay
outlets. We obsoleted them when we did a redesign of our
attraction, so, as usual, I had an application for them in
mind, and rescued them from the dumpster in fine Ham
fashion.
These are 15 amp
I ran a Swan Mark-III (2x3-400z) PS on 120vac in a bedroom (My ham
shack) running 2500vdc @ 400mA (1000VA) to run my 2m-8877 to 600w
output. That PS drew at least as much as the KPA500 will. I only
saw a slight momentary flicker in the room lights when I switched to
transmit (I am
Bob and all,
Thank you, Rose saw my e-mail and wrote me so I am now in e-mail contact
with her and will probably order both a case and cover. Thank all of you
who steered me in the right direction.
73 Doug EI2CN
-Original Message-
From: Bob Naumann
The K3 is a great radio, we all agree, and it is finding lots of
enthusiasts for use on VHF/UHF. But for one very popular use, it is
not able to fulfill is as a satellite radio. For successful use on
the ham sats one needs to have full duplex operation. This usually
is in the form of
Page 40 is the assignment tonight. :-)
I did not know this existed.
Don
KD8NNU
On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 11:00 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:
When I was a teenage novice in the early 1970's, armed only with a
Heathkit HW-16, 15 meters became my favorite band. It was a reliable
source of DX
I just installed the K144RFLK in my K3. I have the .5 ppm oven controlled
crystal in my radio.
When I calculate the new offsets, I ended up with a 0.104 Hz offset for the
144-146 range and a 1.4 Hz offset for the 146-148 range.
Following the instructions and converting these amounts to KHz, I
Just to see that I'm reading the schematic correctly: V_SMTR is in the
IF stage, after AGC, so the crystal filters are in effect when scanning,
but the audio filter (KAF2/KDSP2) is not part of the loud enough to
stop scanning circuit. It looks like the audio filter, mute, and audio
amplifier
I have been looking on the web for an article out of QST. This article was
published in the last two years or so... The article was about an indicator
for
tuning. The author used a wheatstone bridge. He dumped a lot of power into a
dumby load from the xmiter so tehre was just a few
I will add a few comments to Cookie's good advice. If you are wondering if
your ham shack is wired with 15 or 20 amp service here is an easy way to
tell. There are two common types of grounded duplex receptacles available in
the USA. The NEMA 5-15R type has two parallel blades with the U ground
Gentlemen:
I appreciate all the input, but the question has been answered.
To clarify, this is a modification, reconfiguration of an existing shack.
There's power there, 115V and 220V. There's an opportunity for a 2nd 220V
line.
I'm going to do that, I needed to know what type of power cord was
Wayne,
I often use the K3 scanner to listen for band activity (I wrote the
SCANNOW key macro that scans immediately the range of freqs
from VFO-A thru VFO-B).
The scanner is great for keeping an eye (ear?) on the band while doing
other things around the shack or, in my case, while busy with
An ARRL website search for wheatstone bridge tuner finds:
Oct 2004 - QST (Pg. 60)
The Wheatstone Bridge (sidebar to An SWR Indicator for the MFJ-902
Antenna Tuner)
(Workbench)
Author: Ceccherelli, John, N2XE
http://p1k.arrl.org/pubs_archive/104134
Unfortunately the PDF (you have to be an ARRL
Yes.
73,
Wayne
N6KR
On May 4, 2011, at 10:36 AM, Wayne Conrad wrote:
Just to see that I'm reading the schematic correctly: V_SMTR is in
the IF stage, after AGC, so the crystal filters are in effect when
scanning, but the audio filter (KAF2/KDSP2) is not part of the loud
enough to stop
Hi,
I knocked out C9, a big capacitor (compared to the other SMDs) while
reistalling the subRX.
It got hooked by the coax from the Aux antenna.
My question is, what does C9 do, and what would happen without it ?
Also any suggestions ? I never did SMD soldering, and also this one seems
tricky.
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Getting ready to use my K2 SN6473 on PSK and possibly other data
modes. Wondering if there's any issues w/IMD on the K2? I seem to
remember seeing somewhere on the web a mod made to the SSB board? or
was that just early SN K2s? Or if I just watch my gain/power levels to
avoid any ALC
Steve,
That is old information that you were seeing. Those changes have been
incorporated on your KSB2 - of course, if you purchased an older KSB2
board from another owner, you should check it physically against the
values changed by that IMD mod. The mod instructions are on the
Elecraft
Hi Mark,
If your value of REFCAL is very close to 49,380,000 then the XVn offsets
will be very small, and may even be zero.
BTW, what is the value of REFCAL on your radio?
73,
Paul
--
Paul Saffren - n6hz
Firmware Engineer
Elecraft Inc.
831.763.4211
www.elecraft.com
My REF frequency is 49.380.000
Right on the money, Since my radio reads out directly on the REF frequency,
that is why I was suggesting putting a statement in the manual to just go ahead
and set the Offsets to 0 for that case.
Mark Goecke KC5VF
Mark,
I agree with you. If your REFCAL is on the button, or fairly close (which
I'll have to calculate) , the XVn values should then be set to zero. I'll
talk to our technical writer and address the changes to the manual.
Thanks,
paul
--
View this message in context:
I ran a transmit test today on my recently built (serial 7059) K2/100, with SSB
adaptor, KAT 100 antenna tuner and elecraft balun. For the station antenna, I
have an 80 meter dipole with each leg currently cut to 66 feet. The center of
the dipole is not quite 40 feet high. The two ends are
Something seems weird with my K2 - when I put my hand near the front left of
the face the frequency of signals on the band swing around wildly (sometimes I
can get the signal to go outside of a 500 hz passband). Sometimes it settles
back down to where it was before but sometimes not. It also
Paul,
Did you set the menu ATU parameter to AUTO and then do a TUNE before
trying to transmit?
If you did, you should have heard relays clack while the KAT100 found a
match, then the SWR indicators should have settled to less than 1.5.
If you followed that procedure, then yes, you can
Paul, you can use an 80 meter dipole on 40 as you describe. Many have done
it with success. However, you may have to fool with it to get it to work,
since the antenna is being fed at a very high impedance point.
I assume the balun you're talking about is 4:1. To start, I'd suggest
grounding the
TJ,
That is indeed weird behavior for the K2. I would suspect a solder
connection problem somewhere inside the K2.
If not a solder problem --
Did you flush cut the leads below the BFO inductor L33? If not, the
toroid may be sitting too high and contacting the bottom cover. And did
you
Tony and all,
Those counterpoise wires should not just be dangled on the ground.
They will carry RF current, and the RF voltage at the ends can be quite
high. Treat them just like an antenna radiating element - keep them
clear of possible contact for humans and pets, and use insulators on
Paul,
In addition to the points in my last post, a check of the feedpoint
impedance (with an antenna analyzer) at the end of the parallel line
would be informative. If you have an 80 meter radiator and a feedline
that is close to a half wavelength on 40 meters (34 feet or some
multiple of
Thanks Don - I did not build my K2 but I checked L33 and it looks good. It
seems the problem is more prominent when I push on the top cover anyway, which
makes me think that L33 isn't the problem. Are there any specific components in
the front left of the RF board I should look for specifically
Hello all,
I am combining some gift cash plus the proceeds from the sale of a radio
and have enough to finally order my very own KX1 CW QRP transceiver kit.
For the moment, the base radio is the only thing I can purchase. I
eventually will add the 3080, antenna tuner and the nifty key.
I
This is odd. Just finished a QSO with J5UAP on 30m this evening and
then switched over to 40m to pursue some more DX. When I got there, I
wasn't able to get any power out. It showed 0.0W when I tried to TUNE
(I have a remote tuner at the base of my vertical).
I power cycled the radio and then
Add to this the fact that the radio now is only putting out 12W
instead of 100W. :-(
Thanks for any assistance.
-john W4PAH
On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 10:28 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
This is odd. Just finished a QSO with J5UAP on 30m this evening and
then switched over to 40m
On Wed, 2011-05-04 at 22:12 -0400, John wrote:
Hello all,
I am combining some gift cash plus the proceeds from the sale of a radio
and have enough to finally order my very own KX1 CW QRP transceiver kit.
Hi John,
It's a great little radio; you'll love it. I built the 40-20 version and
the
Wow! I've not had those issues turn up on my K3, but suddenly not getting
more than 12W out sounds like the KPA100 is off-line. Considering how
confused the K3 acted previously, I'd check the CONFIG menu to ensure it
still shows the KPA100 as Installed.
Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
John, the KX1's tuner is a snap to add. Remove a jumper from the connector
for the KXAT1 and plug it in. The connector on the main KX1 pcb is installed
during the initial build.
The 3080 option is a little more involved since it involves mounting a pony
board on the main board, but it's nothing
Plus do a full congig TX etc
Gary
On 5 May 2011 12:46, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:
Wow! I've not had those issues turn up on my K3, but suddenly not getting
more than 12W out sounds like the KPA100 is off-line. Considering how
confused the K3 acted previously, I'd check the
Aaaargh...dang fingers...CONFIG TX GN
Sheesh
Gary
On 5 May 2011 12:51, Gary Gregory garyvk...@gmail.com wrote:
Plus do a full congig TX etc
Gary
On 5 May 2011 12:46, Ron D'Eau Claire r...@cobi.biz wrote:
Wow! I've not had those issues turn up on my K3, but suddenly not getting
more
On Wed, 2011-05-04 at 22:12 -0400, John wrote:
Hello all,
Oh yes, and the instructions for the 40-20 only radio give you
variations on a couple of steps that you'd take if you intend to add the
80-30 board later. So the latest instructions anticipate somewhat a
later addition of the extra
That was my first thought, Ron.
I had previously had my TUN PWR set to 25W, but when I looked at that
menu item it was set to 12W. I had not changed the setting.
The KPA100 was no offline in the config menu at all.
I reflashed the firmware and now it's all working, I think. The
LP-100A
John,
If you are an experienced builder, you can build the KX1 with
consideration for the addition of the KXB3080 option - if and only if
you order the KXB3080 at the same time as the KX1 (you will need some of
the components).
If you cannot order the KXB3080 until later, just mount L6 on
Doing that now. Thanks, Gary.
-john
On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 10:52 PM, Gary Gregory garyvk...@gmail.com wrote:
Aaaargh...dang fingers...CONFIG TX GN
Sheesh
Gary
On 5 May 2011 12:51, Gary Gregory garyvk...@gmail.com wrote:
Plus do a full congig TX etc
Gary
Just did the TX GAIN CONFIG and I'm getting only ~80W into the dummy
load on all bands. Hmmm.
Thoughts?
Maybe my LP-100A is poorly aligned, but I don't think so...
-john W4PAH
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Home:
OK. I'm really going to bed now--but before I do I noticed that I can
turn the TX ALC 'off' in the CONFIG menu and manually adjust the TXGN
HP for each band to achieve the 100W into the dummy load (as measured
through the LP-100A).
Is this advisable?
-john W4PAH
On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 11:15 PM,
TX ALC should work in the OFF position just fine. I don't use ALC on the
KPA_500 anyway so it should be fine.
Gary
On 5 May 2011 13:34, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
OK. I'm really going to bed now--but before I do I noticed that I can
turn the TX ALC 'off' in the CONFIG menu and
I am getting ready to buy a K3 and a MH-2 hand mike.
Due to the layout of my station, I need to add a 6-foot-long extension
cable from the K3 mike jack to the actual mike connection. I have the
necessary connectors on hand. but I'm wondering about the 8-conductor cable.
Is a piece of CAT-5
There is a similar article on p.36-38 of this month's (May 2011) CQ Magazine.
Leigh/WA5ZNU
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/OT-QST-Article-tp6331809p6333113.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
Ethernet cable is gonna look oogly - but it's cheap. The twisted
pairs should provide a little shielding. The jacket will not be very
smooth unless it's made from some material like TPE (rubberized
thermoplastic). These are usually called Plenum Cables because of the
rated temperature range.
I tried it, and thought I had flunked scanning 101. You have to push the
M - V button twice before pushing the scan button. Maybe it says that
somewhere, but I didn't see it. I was only pushing it once. Anyway, now it
plays! Watching my P3, however, it does skip over some signals. Some
Steve,
Is a piece of CAT-5 data cable (four twisted pairs of #24 wire)
suitable for this purpose? Are there any special precautions I need
to observe?
It will work fine. Just be sure to use one pair for mic and mic return
(pin1 and pin 7) and one pair for PTT and ground (pin 2 and pin 8).
Hi -
I am trying to reduce my K1's VFO drift to an acceptable level. The VFO
frequency drifts up at a rate of about 30Hz/minute (after a 5 minute warm
up). Even after one hour, the drift is still about 15Hz/minute. This is
too much, obviously.
I have been trouble shooting this with the help of
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