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Thanks Gernot. The RF board was already assembled when I bought the unit - I
didn’t do any soldering.
I’ve spent two days going through the boards with a fine tooth comb (aka strong
magnifier) and I can’t find any solder bridges or poorly seated components. I
did wake up with an idea in my
The resistance checks are meant to measure at U13 after being placed and
soldered. It is not a component check, but it will check if you have
done the placement and soldering of all the connected stuff correctly.
IAW, a different value could mean you did a mistake somewhere else.
Visually
Unassembled Heathkits have sold for amazing amounts of money. (I use
the past tense because I doubt there any of those treasures left these
days.)
I have even heard of people "making" an unassembled kit by buying a
built one, taking it apart, unsoldering all the components, and
replacing
Hi Adrian, welcome to the hobby and to the Elecraft list,
Wow, that's quite a collector's item! I'd consider asking Elecraft what
they'd charge to assemble and align for you.
John KN5L
On 2/14/21 3:32 PM, KJ7SOY wrote:
> Hi everyone! I’m new to the list and to Elecraft radios and HAM in
Same as "MAC" for the computer, or an urban legend -- they picked it up
somewhere and repeated it and someone else picks it up from them.
On Sun, Feb 14, 2021, 17:31 Gwen Patton wrote:
> Just don't scream "ham". It's not an acronym, and there's no reason to put
> it in all caps. I have no idea
Just don't scream "ham". It's not an acronym, and there's no reason to put
it in all caps. I have no idea why people keep insisting on capitalizing
it? I know it's off-topic, but why do people do that? Does anyone know?
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
73,
Gwen, NG3P
On Sun, Feb 14, 2021 at 5:26 PM Bill
When I have had issues like this, I have gotten excellent support from
.
73 Bill AE6JV
On 2/14/21 at 4:32 PM, kj7...@gmail.com (KJ7SOY) wrote:
> I have the rev B RF board and I’m doing the manual’s resistance tests.
> Voltage regulators U12 and U13
> are both supposed to test at > 150 ohms.
Adrian,
If you can find no solder bridges, then
Yes, replace the regulator.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 2/13/2021 9:15 PM, KJ7SOY wrote:
Hi everyone! I’m new to the list and to Elecraft radios and HAM in general.
Thanks for bearing with me while I learn!
I picked up an unassembled K3 at an auction
Hi everyone! I’m new to the list and to Elecraft radios and HAM in general.
Thanks for bearing with me while I learn!
I picked up an unassembled K3 at an auction three weeks ago. It’s been sitting
in a box with most of the boards sealed in their anti-static bags since 2009.
I’ve hit a snag and
Hi everyone! I’m new to the list and to Elecraft radios and HAM in general.
Thanks for bearing with me while I learn!
I picked up an unassembled K3 at an auction three weeks ago. It’s been sitting
in a box with most of the boards sealed in their anti-static bags since 2009.
I’ve hit a snag and
Very nicely done Chuck!
73,
Tom - W4BQF
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
Charles Yahrling
Sent: Tuesday, March 3, 2015 5:38 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 assembly slide show
FYI here is a slide show
FYI here is a slide show of basic K3-100 kit assembly SN8760. I'm just now
calibrating but will add slides later as I open it up again and install
KPA3 100W internal amp. If you've never built one or opened yours up this
would be a good study to see how easy it is to get various panels off. Note
Hi Eric,
Nice log of the build, thanks for sharing!
--
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for
I received the boxes on Thursday and started Friday evening. I was on
the air on Sunday. As you noticed, I had several of the upgrades
installed. The basic turn on was done on Saturday. I probably spent
about 15 hours total but I went real slow to make sure I didn't screw
something up.
Eric
This was so helpful, mere words can't describe!
Thanks Eric.
'73. Brian.
Sent from my iPad
On 6 Jun 2014, at 05:41, Eric Ross e...@evross.com wrote:
I did a photo log of my assembly of the K3 (S/N 8312) this last month. I
sure enjoyed the build.
I did a photo log of my assembly of the K3 (S/N 8312) this last month. I sure
enjoyed the build.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/125220397@N06/sets/72157644623374769/
Eric
wb7sde
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Thanks Eric. I enjoyed going through your photos!
Brian KB1VBF (jealous K2 owner)
Sent from my iPad
On Jun 6, 2014, at 12:41 AM, Eric Ross e...@evross.com wrote:
I did a photo log of my assembly of the K3 (S/N 8312) this last month. I
sure enjoyed the build.
I highly recommend building the kit version. Besides saving some money it will
also remove
any hesitancy in opening the rig up later to add whatever filter or module you
may want.
To make the build go easier
1. Be sure you have a good philips screwdriver. (No chewed up tip)
2. A well lit
I have always enjoyed the tinkering aspect of amateur radio. Many of us
started out building our rigs from old radios and TV's (back in the 50's).
The K3 is not difficult for anyone able to follow the detailed and
excellent instructions provided. Age alone should not be a pro or con
decision
My K3 fails the test on page 45 of the assembly manual. The resistance
from a pin on U12 to ground is 447 ohms. One of you asked a question ...
was the reading the same with the leads reversed? The answer is no, that
reading is about 4.5 kohms, and it acts like the meter is charging a
capacitor
, 2013 10:26 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Resistance Check is low
My K3 fails the test on page 45 of the assembly manual. The resistance from
a pin on U12 to ground is 447 ohms. One of you asked a question ...
was the reading the same with the leads reversed
Elecraft K3 Assembly Complete Ready for Testing Day 11
On to final assembly of the Elecraft K3 there didn¹t seem like much left
to do before testing so I had some time the other night to finish up. There
were a few parts here that were a little frustrating mostly to do with the
heat
Yes I have seen this video and sadly it set my expectations that this
might be an easier job than it is :)
He makes it look really easy in this video but I got back to an earlier post
that I have been wanting to take my time and do a little here and there so I
could savor. I thought I would get
Elecraft K3 Assembly Front Panel Day 7
As assembly continues on the Elecraft K3 today was time to finish the back
connectors and the start on the front panel I was trying a new camera and
camera position so let me say up front I¹m not happy with the video but
overall it will give you the view
does. It must have
moved.
73, Russ W9EL
K3 S/N 7081
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Elecraft-K3-Assembly-Front-Panel-Day-7-tp7571603p7571608.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] (K3) Assembly (again) Front head
I tried that first. In my case it resulted in what I considered an
unacceptable deformation of the front panel. Maybe I just had a bad stackup
of tolerances. YMMV!
73,
Josh W6XU
On 12/28/2012 4:14 PM, Don Wilhelm
Hi all
I had nearly finished assembly when I picked up the unit and heard a rattle,
process of elimination I found it in the front head unit and its the flat
washer between the phones socket and the front panel plate itself. Even with
the knurled nut screwed on the front, the flat washer is
I had the identical issue. After verifying that all other hardware was
correct and connectors mated fully, I added an additional thin lock
washer on the jack behind the panel to take up the space. I'm sure it
wasn't necessary, but the little gap bugged me.
73,
Josh W6XU
On 12/28/2012 2:51
Rick,
Apply some pressure between the board and the front panel metalwork -
Squeeze with thumb and fingers while tightening the knurled nut with the
other hand. Tighten until the washer is tight. That method will do no
harm.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 12/28/2012 5:51 PM, Rich wrote:
Hi all
I had
I tried that first. In my case it resulted in what I considered an
unacceptable deformation of the front panel. Maybe I just had a bad
stackup of tolerances. YMMV!
73,
Josh W6XU
On 12/28/2012 4:14 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
Rick,
Apply some pressure between the board and the front panel
I remember having the same problem when I built my K3 about four years ago.
It was never going to work without an additional washer which is what I
installed.
73
Barry VK2BJ
On 29 December 2012 02:31, Josh Fiden j...@voodoolab.com wrote:
I tried that first. In my case it resulted in what I
Hi all
Am hoping someone can answer this one quickly.
I am building my K3 at the moment and am on page 32 of the manual just putting
in VFO B and I don't understand the instructions.
It says 'Cut only the five pins shown close to the back of the pc board so they
do not extend above the solder
against the adjacent board when the front panel is assembled.
73 Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rich
Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2012 11:08 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3
Rich,
Does the illustration following that text help at all? They are the
short ends of the 5 pin connector.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 12/23/2012 2:07 PM, Rich wrote:
Hi all
Am hoping someone can answer this one quickly.
I am building my K3 at the moment and am on page 32 of the manual just
, 2010 7:57 PM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 assembly, resistance checks
...Of the 4 checks all are fine except for U12.
Instead of getting a resistance reading on my digital meter, it never
settles down. It cycles through a range of values up through the Mohm
range
Hi all,
In the K3 Assembly Manual Rev L, I reached the point of doing resistance
checks on pages 44 and 45. Of the 4 checks all are fine except for U12.
Instead of getting a resistance reading on my digital meter, it never
settles down. It cycles through a range of values up through the Mohm
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike Markowski
Sent: Tuesday, August 03, 2010 7:57 PM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 assembly, resistance checks
Hi all,
In the K3 Assembly Manual Rev L, I reached the point
K3 manual Rev L, page 16, references 4-40 split lockwasher and #4 split
lockwasher
Are these the same? All the inventory pages say #4
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Help:
Andrew: Yes they are the same.
73, Doug VE3MV
Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2010 11:38:18 -0400
From: andrew.n...@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 assembly: split lockwasher: #4 same as 4-40 ?
K3 manual Rev L, page 16, references 4-40 split lockwasher and #4 split
Andrew,
They are the same, although for a washer or lockwasher, the 4-40 is a
misnomer, the #4 designation for the hole size is correct, but the -40
refers to the thread pitch, and there are no threads in a washer.
Just for additional information, most of the screw hardware in the K3 is
4-40
Hi All,
Getting ready to take delivery of my K3/100 kit on Tuesday afternoon and
expect to start assembly after I stop slobbering all over the cool box of
stuff! I've got a nice anti-static mat and attached wrist connector that I
got from Fry's just for this project.
That was the good news. The
Jim,
Assuming you have modern electrical wiring (2 wires plus ground) at all
your wall receptacles, just connect it to the center screw of a nearby
receptacle plate. That is sufficient grounding for anti-static
protection. It will not suffice for station grounding for lightning,
but that is
Don (and all) -
Thanks for the info. I had totally forgotten about using that center screw
terminal on the grounded outlets. D'hhh! Homer Simpson mode after too
many Memorial Day cold Heinekens!
73, Jim
--
View this message in context:
My washer was equally loose so I put an extra one in to fill the gap. Then
it fitted very snug.
Barry VK2BJ
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Post:
In a recent message, Barry Simpson vk...@optusnet.com.au writes
My washer was equally loose so I put an extra one in to fill the gap. Then
it fitted very snug.
I had no issue with this personally, but as it is a common problem there
would appear to be a need for a compression type spring washer
, if I shake the radio during reassembly and
hear nothing, I sleep better that night. ;o)
73,
Terry, WØFM
-Original Message-
From: Bob Naumann [mailto:w...@w5ov.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 9:31 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question
Exactly
And what's the washer's purpose?
Mike wrote:
When I built my K3, I was not able to get a tight enough fit between the
DSP board and the front panel to keep that thick washer (that goes over
the phone jack) from rattling.
I pulled the DSP board this morning to send in for the upgrade, and
It was a bit loose on my K3 #1122, but I've seen it as a close fit on other
K3's and a slack fit on a couple of others.
Mine rattled when the internal speaker was used so I put a little bit of stuff
called Blu-Tak on mine to stop it rattling. Subsequently, on removing the DSP
from the front
Thanks, David.
I'm considering just leaving it out, it seems to serve no purpose.
73, Mike NF4L
David Lankshear wrote:
It was a bit loose on my K3 #1122, but I've seen it as a close fit on other
K3's and a slack fit on a couple of others.
Mine rattled when the internal speaker was used so
I think it acts as a spacer and prevents you distorting the board by pulling it
too close.
Get the nut tight enough and it doesn't rattle
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
--
The trees that are slow to grow bear the best fruit.
-Moliere, actor and playwright (1622-1673)
On 17 Mar 2010, at 13:04, Mike wrote:
Mike,
Do not leave it out. That washer is a spacer.
Apply pressure between the board and the front panel metalwork and
tighten the nut until the washer is firmly captive.
If you have the board plugged in correctly, nothing will be harmed. If
you don't have the board pluggin in correctly, it
I might add that if the spacer is left off, the DSP board will flex
every time the Phone plug is removed and can lead to future failure.
73,
Don W3FPR
Don Wilhelm wrote:
Mike,
Do not leave it out. That washer is a spacer.
Apply pressure between the board and the front panel metalwork and
(and
the panel stopped bowing) and went with the hot glue fix.
Terry, W0FM
-Original Message-
From: David Lankshear [mailto:d...@lanks.plus.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 7:53 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question
It was a bit loose on my K3 #1122
Thanks, Don,
If I pull the nut up that tight, I'm afraid I'll distort or break
something. I can't measure it right now, but it's a pretty big gap
(meaningless phrase, I know). I'll look closer when the DSP board gets back.
All it has to do is just touch, right?
Mike
Don Wilhelm wrote:
I
If I get the nut that tight, for sure I'm going to distort or break
something. :-(
73, Mike NF4L
David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:
I think it acts as a spacer and prevents you distorting the board by pulling
it too close.
Get the nut tight enough and it doesn't rattle
73 de M0XDF, K3 #174
it was just snug (and
the panel stopped bowing) and went with the hot glue fix.
Terry, W0FM
-Original Message-
From: David Lankshear [mailto:d...@lanks.plus.com]
Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2010 7:53 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question
On Wed, 17 Mar 2010 12:53:00 -, David Lankshear
d...@lanks.plus.com wrote:
I presume you considered that if there was ever a reason to remove the
washer in the future, you may have to damage the front panel to remove
it, and decided that was not an important issue.
It was a bit loose on my
The fitting of the washer is indeed a trivial matter, Tom. It's on the
inside of the front panel, so if it had to be chiseled off, the marks
wouldn't show and I'm sufficiently competent to use the minimum
amount of adhesive to hold it in place. I won't tighten down the nut
on the front panel
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Assembly question
The fitting of the washer is indeed a trivial matter, Tom. It's on the
inside of the front panel, so if it had to be chiseled off, the marks
wouldn't show and I'm sufficiently competent to use the minimum
amount of adhesive
Bob,
If the washer is loose, vibration can be created by the internal speaker.
Just squeeze the board up to the front panel and tighten the nut on the
headphone jack - no rattle, no stress when the headphone plug is
removed, !no problem!. It seems some owners are overly concerned about
a
When I built my K3, I was not able to get a tight enough fit between the
DSP board and the front panel to keep that thick washer (that goes over
the phone jack) from rattling.
I pulled the DSP board this morning to send in for the upgrade, and
would like to fix the washer when I re-install it.
Rich,
If you will look at the photo #2 at the lower right quadrant of page 32- You
will see that what you are to cut are the bits of the pins that stick out of
the back of the small board attached to the encoder. Do this before you
install the encoder. This is done to prevent these from shorting
Hello. I'm building K3 #3653 and hit a snag installing the second
encoder, VFO B. The instructions (page 32) indicate I need to trim 5
pins close to the PC board as part of the preparation to install the
encoder. I'm not seeing it. Does this mean cutting the pins after
installing the
Phil,
The DL2 has an included diode detector which can be used in conjunction
with a DMM to measure power accurately. and is not very expensive.
73,
Don W3FPR
Phil Hystad wrote:
Don and Chuck,
Thanks for the explanations. I will probably get the XG2 kit just because it
is yet another kit
Phil,
Those optional tools are for those who are not satisfied with the
default settings - in the case of the 50 uV signal generator, it will
allow you to set your S-meter at the S-9 point. My K3 was 'right on'
with the default settings, but since I have an XG2, I checked it anyway.
The 1
I didn't use the optional tools when building my K3. I really don't need
to have that degree of precision. Just build it and enjoy it.
73, Mike NF4L
Phil Hystad wrote:
The K3 Assembly guide says that you would need a accurate power meter
measuring 1 mW to 5 W. Also, a signal generator
[With regard to the need for instrumentation]
W3FPR wrote:
So, the question becomes - What degree of accuracy in power output
and S-meter reading do you wish to achieve? The default settings will be
very close, but with the added instruments, one can achieve a higher degree
of confidence in those
Don and Chuck,
Thanks for the explanations. I will probably get the XG2 kit just because it
is yet another kit to build but I doubt that I will get such a meter. Well,
maybe I will if I can find a cheap working on somewhere. No rush though. I
just realized though that I doubt that I have
The Elecraft dummy load DL1 can be used as a watt meter, using a DMM.
Peter
On Sat, Dec 12, 2009 at 8:33 AM, Phil Hystad k7...@comcast.net wrote:
Don and Chuck,
Thanks for the explanations. I will probably get the XG2 kit just because it
is yet another kit to build but I doubt that I
Sometimes learning to achieve greater precision for its own sake can be an
enjoyable and educational pursuit, even if it makes no significant
difference in how the rig performs on the air.
And then there are the occasional Hams who are using their rigs in a special
way that wants greater
Phil,
The DL2 has an included diode detector which can be used in conjunction
with a DMM to measure power accurately. and is not very expensive.
73,
Don W3FPR
Phil Hystad wrote:
Don and Chuck,
Thanks for the explanations. I will probably get the XG2 kit just because it
is yet another kit
The K3 Assembly guide says that you would need a accurate power meter measuring
1 mW to 5 W. Also, a signal generator calibrated 50 microVolts output at 20 or
40 meters. I have a signal generator that goes up to 5 MHz but I am pretty
certain that the voltage adjust does not go down to 50
Phil,
Note that those are optional - not required, but they are useful if one
wants to do the precise adjustments - the default settings will give you
a fully working K3.
The Elecraft XG2 has a 50 uV output level, look at the Mini Kits.
73,
Don W3FPR
Phil Hystad wrote:
The K3 Assembly guide
Don,
Thanks for the pointer to the XG2 -- yes, that is what I was trying to think
of. About them being optional, I did see that but I was curious as to what
what gains by the precise adjustments. If the default settings give you a
fully working K3, what is being done by those who are making
Maybe this is old news, but it's an amusing video. I obviously spent way
too much time assembling mine.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfUMZcwtIyw
Dick, K6KR
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Dick Dievendorff wrote:
Maybe this is old news, but it's an amusing video. I obviously spent way
too much time assembling mine.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfUMZcwtIyw
You must not have used those Scott Joplin CDs.
--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
Refer to page 67 of the Rev G or H manual for more information about where
the wattmeter or sig generator are used.
They are entirely optional, as the text explains, but some builders want to
perform the calibration procedures requiring them anyway. There are a
variety of ways to measure 1 MW
Serious QRO.
| perform the calibration procedures requiring them anyway. There are a
| variety of ways to measure 1 MW other than an actual power meter. A good
| oscilloscope is one option.
Regards,
Mike VP8NO
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Elecraft mailing
A very big oscilloscope attenuator for a megawatt, I agree ;-)
Ron
-Original Message-
Serious QRO.
| perform the calibration procedures requiring them anyway. There are a
| variety of ways to measure 1 MW other than an actual power meter. A good
| oscilloscope is one option.
Dave, W8OV wrote:
I'm considering ordering a K3 kit soon. I wonder how 'optional' these
items listed in the assembly manual really are:
Optional Equipment:
1. RF Power Meter with accurate readout from 1 mW to 5 watts, minimum.
2. Signal generator with calibrated 50 uV output at 20 or 40
I'm considering ordering a K3 kit soon. I wonder how 'optional' these
items listed in the assembly manual really are:
Optional Equipment:
1. RF Power Meter with accurate readout from 1 mW to 5 watts, minimum.
2. Signal generator with calibrated 50 uV output at 20 or 40 meters.
I have a Bird
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dave, W8OV
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 8:48 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly Question
I'm considering ordering a K3 kit soon. I wonder how 'optional' these
items listed in the assembly manual really are:
Optional
Dave,
Those pieces of equipment are entirely optional. They are not
required at all. In fact the 1 mW level is only used if you include the
KXV3 option.
The Power Meter can be used to obtain more accurate power calibration
(but the K3 does a good job of it without that meter), and the
' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 2:02 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly
That is an outstanding suggestion Joe!
Simple and elegant. I hope it makes it to The List!
Frank- W6NEK
- Original Message -
From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
Sent: Saturday
Yeah, band buttons would be nice if the panel were larger. But there is a
good work-around that doesn't require a computer. If you're new here, you
may have missed it. Just use quick-recall memories 0-9. This results in two
taps instead of one (MV, n) but it sets you up with all variables the way
- 50 MHz).
73,
... Joe, W4TV
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rick Tavan N6XI
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 4:41 PM
To: John N1JM
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly
Assembly
Don Wilhelm w3fpr at embarqmail.com
Sat Apr 4 20:22:42 EDT 2009
Previous message: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly
Next message: [Elecraft] [K3] K3 Assembly
Messages sorted by: [ date ] [ thread ] [ subject ] [ author ]
Frank,
No need for it to go on The List - it is reality now. You can set
, 2009 5:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly
That is an outstanding suggestion Joe!
Simple and elegant. I hope it makes it to The List!
Frank- W6NEK
- Original Message -
From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly
SNIP
All that's necessary is to set MEM 0-9 to Band Sel in
the configuration menu. After that, M-V followed by 1
through 0 will recall the last used frequency/mode on each
band 160 - 6 (1 = 1.8, 2 = 3.5, 3 = 7
That is an outstanding suggestion Joe!
Simple and elegant. I hope it makes it to The List!
Frank- W6NEK
- Original Message -
From: Joe Subich, W4TV li...@subich.com
Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 4:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly
SNIP
All that's necessary is to set MEM 0
Seems that this posting keeps coming up. :-)
Oldie but goodie from March 2008
de Doug KR2Q
http://mailman.qth.net/pipermail/elecraft/2008-March/084937.html
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After 2 months sitting on the bench and 2 weeks of on and off assembly, I
finally have my K3/KPA3/KRX3, etc., up and running. I was a little
apprehensive about lowering the sub receiver into the radio with all the RF
cables in the way and difficulty in seeing the sub-in and sub-out
I suspect many of us had some degree of fear factor when lowering the
subrx into the depths for the first time. If you look carefully at
how it's aligned, it would be really difficult to get it wrong. This
isn't apparent during the first attempt though.
And yes - a terrific radio is the K3.
Greetings,
K3/100 assembly in work. I just did the four resistance checks that verify the
power buses are not shorted to ground. All R measurements exceeded the
minimums specified. However, that kind of leaves a big range of what
constitutes nominal values. Can anybody provide what are
You are fine.
Fire it up.
73,
Steve
NN4X
On Wed, Jan 21, 2009 at 10:04 PM, Walter V. Gilles wvgil...@yahoo.comwrote:
Greetings,
K3/100 assembly in work. I just did the four resistance checks that verify
the power buses are not shorted to ground. All R measurements exceeded the
minimums
: [Elecraft] K3 Assembly, Resistance Checks
Greetings,
K3/100 assembly in work. I just did the four resistance checks that verify
the power buses are not shorted to ground. All R measurements exceeded the
minimums specified. However, that kind of leaves a big range of what
constitutes nominal
Hi, Has anyone else had big difficulty getting the front panel connector jacks
to match up with the plugs on the RF board when installing the front panel?
The problem appears to be the plug behind the mic connector (p50) not wanting
to mate.
Pins appear to be straight and equally spaced like
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 4:07 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 assembly problem
Hi, Has anyone else had big difficulty getting the front panel connector
jacks to match up with the plugs on the RF board when installing the front
panel?
The problem appears
I had never seen a Power Pole connector and there are no specific
instructions except for soldering and contact alignment.
My problem was inserting the small pin that holds the connector together.
At first I tried pressing it in using needle nose pliers and it spoinged
away in some direction.
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