Jan Steinman via EV wrote:
At that level, the battery has to dissipate only 400 milliwatts,
which it should be able to do without damage under almost any
circumstance.
You'd be surprised. A good new AGM or gel battery can easily go over
13.8v even with just 5-10ma. It takes a long time to get
Cor van de Water via EV wrote:
That was also my immediate thought (being an engineer)
so all I can think is that the solar roofing is directional,
like shingles, so you can't flip it around.
They could have made two variants though, one with + at top
and one at bottom, so you just would have to a
Cor van de Water via EV wrote:
Lee, I can see that you did not proof-read your mail,
Thanks, Cor! Egads, I'm typing faster than I'm thinking. Your
corrections are all right on the money. :-)
- the two zeners are chosen so the sum of the voltages is the desired
output voltage *plus* the drop
Robert Bruninga via EV wrote:
What happens when you might forever overcharge a CAR battery with 30 mA
(during daylight).
Most car batteries are flooded (i.e. not sealed). If you continuously
charge them, once they reach "full" they simply convert the excess
charging current into heat and gass
dovepa via EV wrote:
Isn't that what a trickle charger does? I know lots of people who
leave them on all the time.
People mix up "float" and "trickle" chargers all the time. But they are
quite different devices.
A "trickle" charger delivers a more-or-less constant CURRENT, regardless
of the
Cor van de Water via EV wrote:
For many years, I have used a "take-out" UPS battery
to keep my internet, WiFi and VoIP powered through regular power
outages, always floating it to 13.5V...
I can second Cor's advice. 13.5v is a good float voltage; better than
the usual 13.8v you'll find in most
Robert Bruninga via EV wrote:
For one thing, you can test the controller on the bench,
with a light bulb in place of the motor, a 5k potentiometer
for the throttle pot, and a simple DC power source for input power.
Bingo! Ill disconnect the motor and hook up a few thousand watts of
lights inst
Robert Bruninga via EV wrote:
Old Honda Civic EV conversion troubles (after 2 years of abandonment).
Hi, Robert. These all sound very normal.
1) PbAcid batteries are stll hissing 8 hours after the first charge in a
year was removed? All ten batteries were between 13.5 and 14.5 under charge
wh
Robert Bruninga via EV wrote:
There is no way you can wire 14 solar panels (10' by 20') array in
parallel with the "same wire sizes and lengths" (and loss) compared to
series. Physically impossible.
Bob, "impossible" is not a useful word here. I'm not trying to argue or
"win". I just want to
Re RMS: This stuff is tricky. I don't blame folks for being confused.
If you're powering a resistive load, AC RMS and DC are identical. Line
losses are the same. The resistance in the wire is no different than the
resistance in the load. The losses and power dissipated in both of them
are the
Robert Bruninga via EV wrote:
Still not true. The output of microinverters is at 240 VAC and the average
current in the wires will be double as the same number of panels at 480 VDC.
But each microinverter has its own wire. The total current may be twice
as much in a 240v system as in a 480v
Peri Hartman via EV wrote:
I think Lee was referring to how you wire the panels together, not the
house. You could wire your panels in parallel and, as long as your
inverter is near the panels, not incur any more line losses than a
series system.
Right! PV panels are physically large, even larg
David Kerzel wrote:
In example 1 series you have 2 12 inch leads out of the pack.
In example 2 parallel you use all the leads to connect them together and the
12 inch leads out of the pack are missing, They would add .001 ohm each if
the same size wire which is a second 40 watts.
View with a f
Robert Bruninga via EV wrote:
The only time high voltage helps is when you need to have long wire
runs...
The operative word is "long" And when you wire a house for every room
and for every appliance and for every outlet (whether used fully or not)
then every wire is "long".
What is "long"
Larry Gales via EV wrote:
Thanks, I was somewhat aware of the increased use of copper, but not to the
extent that you specify, so it looks like AC is the way to go, even for
off-grid solar.
Lower voltage means higher current and bigger wires; but it's not as bad
as you think.
First, consider
Bill Collins via EV wrote:
The resting voltage of a lead acid battery is significantly lower than the
voltage required to charge it. For example: a fully charged 12 volt battery has
a resting voltage of 12.6, but will not draw much current unless you apply 13.5
volts or so. This means that when y
Barry Oppenheim via EV wrote:
Slightly OT, does anyone have a good way to add manual function to a HV
contactor? It would be nice to be able to turn on the DC/DC converter
manually in case of 12V failure without having to rig a jumper. I vaguely
remember that one of the OEM EV's had such a butt
EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
Is it more expensive to design semiconductors to switch 10 amps at 12 volts,
or 0.4 amps at 300 volts? That's not a rhetorical question: I don't know.
You generally pay by the watt. Similar price to switch 12v at 100a, or
120v at 10a, etc.
You could regulat
EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
I've never tried this, but I've heard (probably here on the EVDL) of using a
PWM DC motor controller for this purpose. You'd probably need an inductor
in series with its output to simulate motor inductance, so the controller's
current limiting circuit would have
Cor van de Water via EV wrote:
Why don't you try to connect the two first and see if there is a
problem that you want to solve, instead of first building a solution and
then finding out that it is not needed at all?
That's a good idea. If these are big low-resistance AGMs at
significantly diff
Alan Brinkman via EV wrote:
For someone new to electric vehicles, and for a majority of
conversions, a 12 volt accessory battery is the simple means to power
accessories.
That's right. The KISS solution is a 12v accessory battery. Even Tesla
is using a 12v lead-acid accessory battery.
Some
John Lussmyer wrote:
Putting 300VDC at the fingertips of the driver and passengers?
Note that normal 240vac has a peak of around 340v.
High-power accessories like heaters, air conditioners, power steering
pumps, etc. could run directly from the 300vdc. They would be hard
wired, so consumers
Mike Nickerson wrote:
Hi Lee,
I don't think that is how in rush current limiters work. I use them to protect
my DC-DC converter caps so they don't get whacked with a high in rush current
when the connection is first made.
You're right. My explanation was not at all clear. I was staying up to
Michael Ross via EV wrote:
Mike is correct - a single old inefficient panel can draw a sustained arc
an inch or longer. Some decent sized farms have burned down because you
can't just turn off the sun. There are important safety concern to learn
about.
120v DC was used for power distribution in
Roland via EV wrote:
A dead 12 volt battery is the problem when you have your control
circuits in your EV run by 12 volts. My first EV that I received
back in 1976 and still have it today, uses LINE voltage to run all
the control circuits. LINE voltage is the same voltage as the main
battery.
Robert Bruninga via EV wrote:
I'm so fed up with 12v batteries I finally today drilled a hole in the
roof right over the dome light and mounted a solar panel up there where I
could reach the wires and coathanger them over to the pillar and down to
the stupid 12v battery.
Great idea. I did this
Mike Nickerson via EV wrote:
If the long term current draw will be less than 10A or so, you could use an in
rush limiting resistor. That is a resistor with a negative temperature
coefficient. When cool, they have a very high resistance. As they heat up,
their resistance drops.
This is pro
Cor van de Water via EV wrote:
One solution is to make sure you have a good ground connection and not use GFCI.
That was my solution for years with floodeds. Use an isolation
transformer. Plug the charger into it. It's a straightforward and safe
solution.
I still have some big 2kw 120/240va
Mark Abramowitz via EV wrote:
Basically, the chart says that it you compare the various energy storage
technologies, some are well suited for discharging over short time periods and
some for long, and some are well-suited for storing large amounts of energy,
and some smaller.
Here's a simila
EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
Alan Brinkman via EV wrote:
Some of the older Datsun mini-trucks had a rear axle ratio that
would have the drive shaft spinning faster and some conversions did
without the transmission. The few I looked at on the EV Album had a
4.88 rear end.
I also like the old
Christopher Darilek via EV wrote:
How would you mount the car-side PowerPole connector? Pigtail somewhere? I
have a hole in the side of my car I'd like to use to mount it..
Anderson Power Products has a huge variety of housings that the
individual Powerpoles snap into. The housings are used
From: Christopher Darilek:
I'm ready to upgrade my charger connector... My charge rate is 18A
@100V. I think I need 5 connections: +100V, battery ground, +12V,
chassis ground, and BMS output to turn the charger Off. I'd like
for the connector to be accessible without opening the hood. What
do
Michael Ross wrote:
Lots to like about this effort, and the video is easy to watch, and
provocative in good ways. Bill D mentions unsprung weight. If you
aren't a performance nut you can manage clunky handling. Bet those
4 motors aren't heavier that 4 steel truck wheels.
I generally agree with
Sean Korb via EV wrote:
This is the sort of thing where I should study the paper, read the dissents
and then give my completely unscientific opinion as if it were fact.
Yes indeed. :-)
Some basic physics: Imagine you're trying to invent a new battery. You
assume one molecule each of the two r
Willie2 via EV wrote:
I've bought several such things through AliExpress from 24v up to 144v.
Typically sold as ebike batteries. SB50 connectors are common.
http://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?SearchText=lithium+ebike+batteries
Lee will tell you, and I don't question him, that Ping is the quali
dovepa via EV wrote:
He says: Imagine that now you're driving your car, and let's say its
40 percent or 50 percent empty," de Callafon said. "You would have to
charge it. Here you could actually take, if you have 10 modules in
your car, and take five out — those are the ones that are empty — and
Jukka Järvinen via EV wrote:
>> head to Finland! After 2017 tours available to new battery factory too. ;)
>From: Willie2 via EV
>You are teasing us, Jukka?
Yes, in a way. :-)
But i should point out that if the original poster is travelling in the
northern USA, essentially every motel already
Bill Dube via EV wrote:
Harbor Freight sells an outstanding hydraulic crimper at a bargain price:
http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraulic-wire-crimping-tool-66150.html
For $55 there is no reason to use a hammer crimper.
I have used the next size up from this one, made by the same
manufacturer, fo
EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
I agree that a hex crimper is better, and I recommend one if you're pulling
currents upwards of 600+ amps. However, I've used a hammer crimper for
years with currents <= 400a, and have never yet had a problem.
I think the trick is to use a heavy enough hammer -
Michael Ross via EV wrote:
I have to give Jay big yay for the perfect answer. Solder loses any ability
to create a useful joint when it liquifies, hence the need for some very
solid mechanical joining means. The failure modes are truly bad with power
involved.
Agreed; a good answer.
Solder is
EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
Sitting there listening to the speakers going on about their business
as if Tesla doesn´t exist had me wondering if history is going to
repeat itself with a twist.
I don't even see a twist. It's almost exactly the same as when Detroit
ignored all the subcompac
Willie2 via EV wrote:
On 04/14/2016 03:56 AM, EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
On 14 Apr 2016 at 0:06, brucedp5 via EV wrote:
Copper remains the best electrical conductor available
Nope, that would be silver.
Now, if you consider cost-effectiveness, that's another matter. But
that's
not what
EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
I wouldn't even bother asking.
http://la.curbed.com/2014/12/23/10008768/metro-has-arrested-people-for-
charging-their-phones-at-stations
http://www.theblaze.com/stories/2015/03/12/oregon-homeless-woman-charged-
with-electricity-theft-for-charging-her-cellphone/
Jukka Järvinen via EV wrote:
I suggest all EV charging spots to have a cone or something which says
explicitly only EV's allowed. It's less trouble to get off the EV and move
the cone compared to blocked charging when needed.
Hmmm; that makes me think. What about some kind of gate that blocks t
EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
I'll bet that the unloaded vehicle going down the hill does not
produce more electricity than it consumes going up the hill.
Unless some exceedingly large-headed politician (thinks he) has managed to
change the laws of physics, that'd be a pretty safe bet. :-)
brucedp5 via EV wrote:
it mentions the product is
- Safety listed by ETL
I know UL, but what is ETL?
ETL is a competitor of UL. Same kinds of testing; just a different test
lab (and usually cheaper). Both UL and ETL are independent testing
companies. You pay them to test your product. They
Willie2 wrote:
I'm looking for a source for a weather tight, probably fiberglass, box.
About 4'x6' and 2' high with a lift-up top. Can anyone suggest? Some
custom fiberglass shop?
Chris Tromley via EV wrote:
What you're attempting to do is pretty simple, so just about
any fiberglass shop cou
Rush Dougherty via EV wrote:
I'm interested in this idea of 'violations'
Home Depot/Lowes/Ace Hardware/and many other hardware/electrical stores sell
replacement cords for appliances, where you, the homeowner can replace a cord
with a new one. Does that void the UL guarantee and NEC (if there is
David Chapman via EV wrote:
Here is a link to the pic that didnt upload, thanks David R.!
rudman mk2 regboardhttp://postimg.org/image/g1e2uxah3/
I have exactly this board assembled. If someone wants to assemble your
boards, I can send him a photo that shows what all the parts are. Or, I
could
EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
Is there any reason you couldn't build a simple series-parallel stepped
contactor controller?
A contactor controller works, is cheap, and about as simple as dirt. The
controller itself is essentially 100% efficient; it's nothing but
switches, after all.
Howe
Gary Neal via EV wrote:
I'm advising a group competing in the Shell Ecomarathon competition
(http://www.shell.com/energy-and-innovation/shell-ecomarathon/americas.html)
We previously powered our vehicle with a 36V, brushless DC hub motor
designed for bicycles. The problem is Shell requires a mot
Mark Abramowitz via EV wrote:
I know it's been looked at in more recent years, but the actual
reasons for no one implementing such a scheme has, to me, been lost
in the noise.
Actually, battery leasing is very common for commercial and industrial
EVs (fork lifts, golf carts, etc.) Fleet operat
We got the notice too, for our 2013 Leaf. Seems kind of soon to
discontinue online connect-ability. This could be an unpleasant
"surprise" for cars in the future that depend on on-line connect-ability
to work!
I wonder what Nissan is planning to charge to upgrade their service?
Peri Hartman v
Lawrence Rhodes via EV wrote:
When I realized I couldn't build a nice electric car for what I could
buy one for I gave up and bought a used Leaf EV.
So did I. We added a 2013 Leaf to my EV collection. It's hard to beat
the fit/finish/features for the price. It's my wife's car. She prefers
the
Fascinating! I hadn't heard of the Fritchle EV before. 100 miles on a charge
was an amazing achievement, especially considering the roads in those days. I
wonder if there are any details about his batteries?
--
Excellence does not require perfection. -- Henry James
--
Lee A. Hart http://www.sun
From: Lawrence Rhodes
> The trigger works. Press & it stops charging. But after 2 minutes more or
> less it just quits. The MCS100-III has a couple of lights which doesn't
> light. 120v&240v selector which doesn't seem to care what setting it is on.
> The unit was made in 1997 & has been out of
Lawrence Rhodes via EV wrote:
The Ultra Van is a unique motor home.
I've seen an UltraVan, and they are indeed about as close as you can get
to an airplane on wheels without the wings. It is completely smooth
underneath, as well as on the sides and top. I don't know what the Cd
is, but it mu
Lawrence Rhodes wrote:
I noticed Lee Hart saying he doesn't charge to 100%. Why.
Simple. I don't need the range. So there's no need to charge it to 100%
or run it dead.
And, there are reasons *not* to do it. My experience (with all types of
batteries) has been that they last longer if they
Peri Hartman via EV wrote:
I was considering buying an emergency flashlight that stays plugged in
all the time, automatically turns on when the power goes off (like a
commercial emergency light) but can be grabbed and used as a flashlight.
Made in China. From stories like these I decided not to -
Peri Hartman via EV wrote:
Lawrence, you get amazing range. I wish I could get range like that.
Although I have to admit it's rare that I take it further than about 10
miles on the freeway. The majority is on hilly, stop & go city streets
where I get closer to 2.5 to 3.5 miles / kwh. Out of curio
EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
I'm probably swimming against the current here, but I don't think this
reflects well on Tesla.
The blogger wasn't very polite, but these days everybody's a critic. You
expect that in business. IMO, the best response to a post like that is to
say "Thanks for you
Dan Baker via EV wrote:
I'm not sure how many of us use Alltrax controllers in their EVs but I
wanted to share a learning experience I had with one. I purchased an
AXE-7245 3 years ago and last summer it started acting up where it would
not boot in my boat (http://www.evalbum.com/4767). It appe
Cor van de Water via EV wrote:
I am sure that this test is done in software just to verify that
everything works, just like there is a special relay that will
*create* a GFCI event just to test the detection of GFCI before
relying on it. Most standards actually do not specify what happens in
tran
Seth Rothenberg via EV wrote:
I bought a dryer replacement cord with a 3-prong plug and a matching
socket (10-30R)... it says "3-pole, 3-wire, non-grounding"... Is this
an appropriate combination to feed the 6kw charger on my Leaf, using
the OpenEVSE?
I don't know about your openEVSE, but this
There are two ways to look at this problem: From an engineering point of
view, and from a marketing/legal perspective.
From an engineering standpoint, there is no doubt that a safe
high-performance 4-passenger EV could be built that's under 1000 lbs.
Reducing the weight scales down the whole p
EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
Can you tell I'm skeptical? It's an interesting idea, guys, but I'm afraid
you have a big challenge ahead.
A certain amount of this is trolling for publicity and investors. One
marketing research technique is to write press releases for a fake
product (comput
tomw via EV wrote:
No manufactured ev other than Tesla with an adapter can make use of your NEMA
14-50. They all use either standard 120V outlet, L1, or require a J1772
plug to use L2.
Not quite true. We have a Leaf. Indeed, the only way to charge it is via
its J1772 connector.
However, it
brucedp5 via EV wrote:
Renault-Nissan CEO Ghosn says in so many words, resistance [to EVs] is futile...
Sergio Marchionne [Fiat Chysler CEO] admitted very directly... a key reason he
detests the EV revolution: it takes away the core competitive advantage of
automakers. They have outsourced much o
Cor van de Water via EV wrote:
Apparently it is Mastervolt indeed,
they have a BattMan Pro and a BattMan Lite
http://www.mastervolt.us/new-products/
It looks like the Pro has a large digit readout and stores past events
while the Lite has a large bar readout (and small digits) and no
history.
htt
Jay Summet via EV wrote:
I'm looking for an AH meter for my truck... I'm willing to pay extra to
have it use a hall effect sensor (as opposed to a shunt), as I don't
need it to be terribly accurate and for my mounting position a hall
effect will be easier/cleaner.
Hall sensors are fine for meas
http://evolveelectrics.com/displays/tbs-e-xpert-pro/
Jay Summet via EV wrote:
Thanks for the link, yes, that would work.
This looks like a rebranded Xantrex LinkPro meter. The original was the
Cruising Equipment E-meter. They were bought out by Heart Interface and
it become the Link-10. The
Bill Dube via EV wrote:
There is just one on-board charger.
The 2011 to 2012 models have a 3.3 kW on-board charger. Later models
have a 6.6 kW charger.
I've never seen Nissan's "fast" charging setup. What is it, exactly?
There is obviously a second charging connector. I don't know if it's
Bobby Keeland via EV wrote:
I'm retired so don't have a daily commute, but it is 30 miles to my doctor,
dentist and whole foods for grocery shopping. I only drive when I need
something.
Same for me. I'm 65, and live in a small town. I can drive from one end
to the other and back again a few ti
Michael Ross via EV wrote:
Here's what you need to SWAG the utility of PV panels on the truck...
Michael starts out strong, but wanders off before getting to the final
result. Let's try again.
Let's pick a PV panel as a test case. A quick Google search to "buy PV
panels" takes us to http://
EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
The grid is "free storage" for now in some areas, but I predict that net
metering will be dead in 10 years. Powerful and well connnected
(politically, not electrically) people don't like it, and they have state
legislatures in their pockets.
This strikes me as
Seth Rothenberg via EV wrote:
Does anyone know if the Leaf with 6.6KW onboard
charger is supposed to come with a different kind of EVSE?
Or is the "trickle charge" just that, regardless of
the car's ability to charge faster?
What year? I have a 2013 Leaf. It only has the stock "normal" charger;
Bobby Keeland wrote:
Perhaps I can add solar panels on a rack over the pickup so that it is
recharging whenever the sun is shining.
Bill Woodcock via EV wrote:
Adjust your expectations a bit there… It won’t move the needle.
Good PV panels over the bed and (and perhaps the cab roof) will giv
Please tell us more details of your conversion: make, model, year, and how
you are driving it.
Bill C. via EV wrote:
It's a 2002 Ford Focus with and ADC 9 inch motor and Curtis controller,
driven mostly on flat roads. It's wired to open the main contactor when the
accelerator is released, so I
dovepa via EV wrote:
You left out the fact that series motors get too hot when operated at highway
speed for extended periods of time. With the advance in battery technology this
is causing some people issues.
Series motors intended for on-road EVs have built-in fans. I've never
needed to pr
EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
Bob Rice used to call them "Trojan Teakettles." ;-)
...plus a few more colorful adjectives. :-)
When I was running the C-car, I had a panel with 8 edgewise expanded-scale
voltmeters to monitor individual batteries. (It's probably still somewhere
in the garag
EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
On 9 Jan 2016 at 12:56, Lee Hart via EV wrote:
The ComutaVan fixed most of the concerns with the early CitiCars.
I never owned one, but from what I could see of them from a distance, I
think you're right.
At one time I considered buying a partly g
EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
Just some more or less random thoughts:
An excellent summary, David. A few things I can add from my experience
with the ComutaVan:
The ComutaVan fixed most of the concerns with the early CitiCars. Longer
wheelbase, bigger tires, better brakes, and better sho
Robert Bruninga via EV wrote:
I have one of those too! But weeds are growing inside and out the missing
windows after being ignored for 30 years... Mine is bright yellow, a
true cheese... Got the other THINK and a Honda Civic conversion to get
running first...
Ah, that brings back memories.
Alan Arrison via EV wrote:
If the fuse doesn't list a DC rating then don't use it with DC.
That's good advice if you're buying something new, or selling products
that have to meet specs.
However, in many cases the only difference between a fuse with AC only
and AC/DC ratings is that they di
Jay Summet via EV wrote:
Is it correct to assume that a 40 amp fuse rated for 240-600 volts will
also work just fine at 12 volts? (but not the other way around)
It will work, but will also have a higher voltage drop. Small,
low-voltage fuses generally have less DC resistance than a high-vo
Jay Summet via EV wrote:
Has anybody ever melted the plastic and holder of an Automotive ATC
fuse, without blowing the fuse itself? Impressively melted photos here:
http://www.summet.com/blog/2016/01/04/melted-fuse-leg/
Two possibilities occur to me:
1. Fuseholder not rated for the current. 30
John Lussmyer via EV wrote:
I just upgraded the heater in my truck from a single ceramic core (nominal
1500W) to 2 of them.
Measurements show that I'm getting about 2000W of heat total when the fan is on
hi.
Even though each core is wired for 240 VAC, and I'm driving it with 327VDC.
Wonder if
Alan Arrison via EV wrote:
There is simply no way a viable, fully enclosed, highway capable,
electric vehicle ( that can pass safety tests ) can do anywhere near
55wh per mile.
"Well now, I wouldn't say that..." (catchphrase of Richard Q. Peavey
character, from The Great Gildersleeve).
James
Jay Summet via EV wrote:
Even if the electronics are fried, the cord/gun could be connected up
with an Open EVSE type kit to make a new one and retain a lot of the value.
That sounds like a winner. :-) If I had it, I might try to fix it; but
if that failed, just use the parts to build a new on
brucedp5 via EV wrote:
... Ghelase said he’s been told his charger is in violation of the
law and he has to shut it down, giving him no way to keep his
electric vehicle operating.
From the city’s perspective... for safety reasons, the law prohibits
allowing electrical wires to cross property lin
lektwik via EV wrote:
Reading this made me think about the great EV-related stories Lee has
written over the years.
A Christmas Car, By Lee Hart
http://www.evdl.org/pages/xmascar.html
How The Grinch Sold Green-ness, by Lee A. Hart
http://www.davesevs.com/grinch.htm
More here-
http://www.evdl.o
I assume that most EVs in the UK would be charged overnight at home.
Doesn't the UK have the same situation as the USA with there being a
large surplus of power at night, and shortages only happen during the
daytime? Widespread EV use is generally found to *help* the grid, by
leveling power usa
brucedp5 via EV wrote:
I would be interested to know how the EVSE gets implemented. Whether it is
just a simple set 5-15 outlets installed in the back of a remote Gov.
employee's parking lot, or an over blown (expensive) 6kW j1772 mistakenly
installed in primo (most-wanted/front) parking spots.
brucedp5 via EV wrote:
http://www.hybridcars.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/11/Slide11.jpg
(schematic) Tesla patent shows waste heat from the drive motor and
electronics being used to heat the cabin
I did this way back in the 1970's. There should be a description of my
system on the EVDL archive
EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
Didn't the EV1 have a heat pump system pretty much identical to this? If
so, how can Tesla patent it?
First, you can always get a "design" patent. This is like patenting not
the wheel itself; but your particular design of it (with, for example,
square spokes
Bill Dennis via EV wrote:
Combine a copious annual snowfall with a long steep driveway and you'll
understand why I've got such a monster of a snow blower sitting in my garage
(30 inches wide, 24 inches high, 8 horsepower engine). I'd like to go
electric, but I've never seen an electric snow blow
A related question, if I may?
Once upon a time, everyone burned coal in factories, businesses, and
homes for heating and cooking. City air quality was often atrocious.
There were even some epidemics and mass deaths as a result.
I remember my grandparents using coal, at least into the late 195
Lee Hart wrote:
you have to expect that the batteries will get worse over time. All
batteries do.
Ben Goren wrote:
True in practice for today's EVs, but _not_ true as an absolute rule.
Iron Edison-style batteries have functionally limitless lifespans,
though they're much too heavy for use in a
Mark Abramowitz wrote:
> Stock price is irrelevant to the value of a company's used product.
> Frequently also irrelevant to the value of the underlying company.
Agreed. Stock price was just an easy way to demonstrate that the market
price for something does not always reflect its value. In parti
'Leaf’s depreciation is comparable to a pack of Sharpies left out in the sun
with their caps off'
Hyperbole aside, the used price of something is irrelevant unless you
need to sell it.
For example, Tesla's stock price is a roller-coaster. It was at 287 in
Sept 2014, and down to 181 in March
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