All NON Boot Drives are 'Locked' ???
Hello, I've encountered a weird issue. There are little paddlelocks on most of my drives. I think it's a permissions issue of some sort I've never encountered before. My boot partition on the internal drive is fine, but the other boot partition and the user data partition won't let me access them at all. Says I don't have enough access priviledges. The same issue with my 800gig raid external drive too. I can't access or modify the 'locked' drives with drive utility when booted from an install disk either. When I do a Get Info and look at the sharing and permissions section, all the listings there have a 'custom' indicator in the popup menu. The custom indicator won't change to anything else using the popup menu either. This is very very weird. The 'ignore ownership' check box is marked in the get info window, but the orange paddlelock is also there, I had to click on it and enter my admin password to do the tasks I listed above. What the heck is going on? I'm locked out of all my software, data, data archives, software archives. I tried a reinstall (the boot drive is 'sacrificial' and the user folder is kept on the user partition. NO Help. Quite confused here. Richard -- You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list
File Recovery Query
Hi Group, I have formatted a drive (simple format - no zeroing out) when I meant to zap a partition. I haven't lost anything of 'importance', but can I use a utility program to scan the drive's sectors and reconstitute the data onto another drive? I seem to remember using Disc Doctor back in the day to do something like this under OS9. I immediately shut down the computer and pulled the drive, well, after exercising my 4 letter vocabulary for a moment, so the drive is untouched except for the 'format' command from disk utility. It would be much easier to recover the drive than reconstituting from a plethora of opticals. Thanks Richard 10.5.6 2.4ghz solo 500gig 320gig 800gig external etc etc etc --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are a member of G-Group, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: G4 Mini with Chime of Death
Hi Bruce and Bill, It's definitely not the HD grinding itself up and the External DVD Drive I was using was undamaged (still working in the tower I popped it out of). The Tiger OEM Install disc does have a nice donut of fine engraving upon it near the middle and is kaput pending a nice refreshing day at the spa to get the fine marks of old age to diminish! The Screech is definitely an electronic tone - quite specific in tone and duration. All ports are non responsive during atttempt to boot - ie: monitor doesn't flash, flicker, or anything whatsoever, keyboard numcaps lock led's don't light, and the unit doesn't respond to any keyboard commands - shift down to safe boot, option-command-p-r to zap pram, option held down to select boot drive, zip-nada-nuttin but nuttin! All data is completely backed up via both a superduper produced drive clone and a user folder backup as well. So no worries there! I just have a 'bricked' G4 Mini now! Maybe I'll part it on the lemswap list. Maybe someone can use a powersupply or the 1gig of ram or something? I swapped a dig cam for it a couple of years ago, it was heavily used before getting to me and I flogged it hard. I have no complaints what so ever about it. I must admit that the squeal tone it spits out now is quite striking! Definitely not the breaking glass note of memory errors, more on the order of LOOKOUT! The Reactor Is Melting! Richard On Aug 14, 11:44 am, Bruce Johnson john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu wrote: On Aug 14, 2009, at 7:34 AM, Bill Connelly wrote: On Aug 14, 2009, at 9:32 AM, aussieshepsrock wrote: Hello, I have g4 mini 1.2ghz, 1gig, 40 gig that is now presenting with a loud screech instead of the nice startup chime. It sends no signal to the monitor, isn't attempting to boot, and is unresponsive to any keyboard commands, and the lights in the keyboard don't light (caps lock, num lock, etc). Attempted to start with all connections at rear removed, but just got screeching 'chime of death' - no difference at all. Is the screech sound a head crash of the harddrive? sound like a needle on a record player being dragged across an old vinyl record? What Bill said, the noise of a HD read head grinding it's way through the platter is loud and unforgettable. A system dropped hard enough to fubar the DVD drive, is probably enough to damage the drive. The no memory error is a short sound like breaking glass. Possibly the memory's been knocked loose? -- Bruce Johnson University of Arizona College of Pharmacy Information Technology Group Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
G4 Mini with Chime of Death
Hello, I have g4 mini 1.2ghz, 1gig, 40 gig that is now presenting with a loud screech instead of the nice startup chime. It sends no signal to the monitor, isn't attempting to boot, and is unresponsive to any keyboard commands, and the lights in the keyboard don't light (caps lock, num lock, etc). Attempted to start with all connections at rear removed, but just got screeching 'chime of death' - no difference at all. I suspect the mini may have been damaged in trip to girlfriends home for it and me to stay for awhile. It was flaky upon setup and still flaky when booting from a recent 'superduper' backup. (was freezing up once boot sequence and launch software finished loading). Shutting off yahoo messenger launching at login stabilized that problem, but the mini became quite flaky attempting to configure to access the home wifi and I decided to go for a nuke and pave of internal drive with a fresh tiger install. Tiger install was ruined when drive read head impacted dvd and left a substantial donut of scratches on it after a clumsy accident by me almost knocked drive to floor - it was dangling though. Mini did boot from my clone and was working for a few minutes off the clone, but after attempting to restart from a cold shutdown an hour later, all I get is chime of death screeching. What do I do? I posted to mini list, but only advice so far was to have install dvd polished - but if mini is just screeching and not attempting to boot, I could even purchase a ten pack of install dvd's (and in my opinion) I'd just have a nice matched set of coasters. :-) I haven't heard this sound since I was in college and putzing with a Mac II I found at a garage sale. I suspect and 'think' the physical hardware of my mini is busted somehow. I am outside my realm of technical knowledge and experience here - the mini doesn't seem to be interacting with any of the ports because the monitor isn't responding in any fashion during attempt to turn mini on and the usb wired keyboard isn't receiving power or signal of any kind (caps lock light isn't lighting when attempted). Richard --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Where Do I Find Reliable Info On Color Critical Monitor Choices?
Hi Bruce, thank you for the suggestion re: Scott Kelby's book, I'll add it to my acquisition list - which grows ever longer, but good reference materials are always a great 'first buy'. Here's my thoughts on your responses :-) A: I want my 'pictures' to appear consistently the same when I open then, no matter how far apart they're opened over time :-) Monitors drift. Also, store you images in a cool, dry place, heat can cause color shifts :-P Very Correct Bruce - Displays do drift in their 'representations' of what's being sent to it, even if those files haven't changed a whit. It's an inherent variable within any of our display technologies with some of the variables being the Bulbs/LED's in our LCD's, CRT's and LCD's chemicals and electronic bits aging, changing, or wearing out over time. -FURTHER- The 'place' we use a Display is usually variable, too. Frequently there is a window and the 'color' of the Daylight changes depending on time, weather, season, and how we may have our blinds, curtains, or shades, positioned at any given time. Even if we've avoided the 'window' variable by just having artificial illumination in our work space, those lamps, bulbs, and fixtures, bring both the 'inherent' issues of the light they give and the variability of their output in use and over time. Ooops almost forgot to mention the variables we can introduce by having a desk lamp on sometimes, but not other times, or switching between overheads or floor lamps during the day. Variable Soup! :-) -Further- Since we as 'users' are 'Human Beings', it means we are Biological and therefore are Variable. It's inherent in the 'technology' of the Bodies we use to Perceive the world around us. :-) It's neither a good thing, a bad thing, or any thing at all beyond a statement of the our variability. As a Diabetic and someone with both an inherent sense of color and the habits and experiences my 20+ years in Photography bring to the table, I can state categorically and irrefutable that something as simple as a variance in my Blood Sugar Level changes my Perceptions of Color! (InMyHumbleUnderstanding - the changed density and content of the fluids in my eye work to 'filter' the colors reaching the rods and cones in the eye and changing the 'appearance' of the world around me!). B: I want the images I send to a home printer to bear a close resemblence to what I see on my monitor before hitting print :-) This is where printer and paper (don't forget the paper!) profiles come in so useful. True, Profiles are 'where' it's at, but that is the wonder of the 'Color Munki' by xRite. It will calibrate most any display and projector and printer also! it has the ability to 'sample' the color of a physical object much like those systems they have at paint stores for matching paint to the color of a fabric sample you bring in by holding it under a sensor.. quite cool. C: I want to take advantage of the 'profiles' available from a Photo Lab I use to primarily print my photographs. :-) I would get on some pro/semi-pro digital photographer boards and ask your questions there. Surprisingly, The boards haven't been especially helpful, at least the ones I have interacted with. It boils down to the fact there is simply a low statistical probability of encountering someone who a: knows what they're talking about, b: can explain it, and/or c: has any experience implementing a color control process usable beyond the equipment and variables the person coped with 'fixing' their own color/ display/printing gremlins! My forlorn hope for finding a 'recipe' for implementing some color consistency or a straight forward list of do's and don't's has been utterly dashed at this point! I just got a book by Scott Kelby http://www.kelbytraining.com/books/ (The Photoshop CS4 for Digital Photographers book) which has a good section on calibrating and using profiles. I found the book easy to read and understand; he's got a reputation as a good teacher. I'll definitely aquire the book! -- Bruce Johnson Thanks Again Bruce --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Where Do I Find Reliable Info On Color Critical Monitor Choices?
Hello Tortise! thank you for your response. I think it's length demonstrates the incredible maze of complex variables, theory, and differing goals, people are both interacting with and attempting to achieve. The option of giving easy answers to 'simple' questions is almost precluded by the difficulty of the topic itself and the challenges of the technologies involved. My personal choice at this time is to reach for something to give me a fixed point to interact with my variables from. Right now, I have the variability of my Display, the variability of my Perception, and the variability of how I transmit my images (internet, cd/dvd, or print). I can see and quantify the consistency or lack thereof depending on what I've done (or had done to me) with the variables I interact with. I have chosen to use a Color Calibration Device to quantify and measure my variables. It is the 'Yardstick' I will pick up to measure what various equipment is providing me at a given point in time or method of usage. Instead of measuring the deviation between the 'varying' display I am using against the 'varying' output method I used using the 'varying' perception provided by my human eyes and brain, I will be using a 'fixed' measuring device. I see my challenge as analagous to needing 1 foot sections of 2x2 lumber and cutting the board by 'eyeballing' my cuts. When I line up the '1ft' pieces up alongside each other, none of them will be the same length. If I'm experienced, practiced, and used to the saw I'm using, they might be close, but they won't be the same. If I'm inexperienced or suddenly using equipment I've not used before, those boards can be wildly disparate in their length and even if they are consistent, might not be anywhere close to exactly 12 inches in length because I have no benchmark for what 12 inches actually means! This is the Section of my Decision Tree I feel the most confidence about. I am acquiring a 'ruler' to make my measurements with. Where the 'rubber' meets the road is actually having positive things come of the 'Measurements' I make with my device. I ancedotally hear good things about the Software included with the ColorMunki ColorSpyder type devices and the 'relative' consistency the programs can bring to a users life. I have little info about using the software or their methodologies and zero experience actually physically using them. I am lucky in that I am implementing a system in order to satisfy personal goals and needs. A commercial or business imperative isn't involved here - ie: a Wedding Photographer spending a week doing his color balancing and image edits only to have his thousand dollar print and album order turn out to be jacked up and worthless. (Hint: Pro Labs aren't Walmart - you pay for what you as the customer send to print, if the bride is a subtle hint of orange in some and a subtle hint of plum in others because of the color of the light outside your window or you turned all the lights off in the evening, you get to pay twice for your client's prints. OUCH! As you can see, a 500 buck Color Calibrator is 'expensive', but if it saves a Single 1,000 buck print order it pays for itself. As a Home User, it can pay for itself in the Inkjet Ink you DIDNT waste across the months and years trying to make your 4x6's/5x7's/ 8x10's and such LOOK the way they ought and the way you expect them to. I am an ex-Darkroom Jockey. I recall the glory and satisfaction of having 'calibrated' my Camera, my Meter, my Film Development, and Print Processing, to reference standards. Instead of chasing my tail for an hour to get an 'acceptable' print from my negative, I could reliably get a usable 8x10 from it the first time thru the 'soup' and make creative choices from there! To be able to hit print and get a photo print out of my inkjet that might not be 'perfect' the first time, but isn't something I'd be ashamed to have seen is something I'd move heaven and earth for! I don't expect there to be an exact 'clone' of the image I interact with on my screen - physics and biology make that impossible - but 'consistently close' is more than enough! I know there is a challenge implementing a Color Calibration Scheme and that I have quite the range of theory and knowledge to more fully acquire and appreciate, but at least as an Informed Consumer I now know the things 'I Don't Know' and am acting to alleviate the gaps. Please remember the topic I gave this thread I started. I came asking if someone had somewhere to look or learn more about specific displays from the viewpoint of someone who values colors and images in a somewhat similar manner to myself. Richard :-) On Jun 17, 12:29 am, tortoise cymraeg...@gmail.com wrote: On Jun 15, 5:29 pm, aussieshepsrock ilovaussiesh...@yahoo.com wrote: Hi Adrian, good question re:Color Calibration's Usefulness To Me? It's easy to overlook the variable knowledge bases and interests of the list members in one's quest for assistance
Re: Where Do I Find Reliable Info On Color Critical Monitor Choices?
Hi Adrian, good question re:Color Calibration's Usefulness To Me? It's easy to overlook the variable knowledge bases and interests of the list members in one's quest for assistance with a more narrow question. The purpose of my efforts at color matching is to: A: I want my 'pictures' to appear consistently the same when I open then, no matter how far apart they're opened over time :-) B: I want the images I send to a home printer to bear a close resemblence to what I see on my monitor before hitting print :-) C: I want to take advantage of the 'profiles' available from a Photo Lab I use to primarily print my photographs. :-) I know enough about color theory and science to throw big words and odd little phrases into an explanation of HOW the equipment does it's Color Voodoo Stuff to make Monitors, CPU's, Printers, TV's, Projectors, and such all play Nice Nice together, but it would only impress someone who wouldn't know I don't know enough to explain how it works! :-) I'll venture enough to say that an electronic detector is used to measure the 'colors' your equipment is either displaying or printing and uses software and such to smooth out the often disastrous trip our images suffer going from screen to print or from computer to tv or whatever! If anyone wants to explain it better - God In Heaven - Please Do :-) I think I know enough to trust my decision to use a color calibrator and I feel comfortable reaching for the 'pricier' option of the Color Munki Photo choice of equipment, but I firmly believe the greatest sign of intelligence is acknowledging what one does not know, seeking to acquire that knowledge, and being receptive to the acquisition of knowledge one is lacking. Thanks Richard On Jun 11, 10:02 pm, Wallace Adrian D'Alessio fluxstrin...@gmail.com wrote: On Thu, Jun 11, 2009 at 4:22 PM, aussieshepsrockilovaussiesh...@yahoo.com wrote: Thanks All, I must say that a Color Calibrator (ColorSpyder or ColorMunki type unit) is absolutely at the top of my shopping list. I can state with unequivacobal authority that no matter how wonderful the 'software' calibration is built into our preferred OS, the fact our calibrations are done with 'Human Eyes' makes them completely unrepeatable. There is no getting around the variability of the 'sensors' never mind the ongoing variables of our 'brain's' flexible color perception and the changing nature of the illumination of the room the monitor is used - either the bulbs age and change or the varying 'solar' illumination of a window impinges on the situation. I DEFINITELY use the Software Calibration in OSX - on a quite routine basis! But it's always with the acceptance of it's limitations. It's a usable process, is a workable assistant in chasing color gremlins, but it falls short in critical ways. ___ Out of curiosity on my own part would you care to share your purpose in color matching. i.e. What task are you trying to accomplish? Color matching from print to web? From Video to print? This may be useful as an illustration to those on the list who are unfamiliar with this process and it's uses. Thanks, Adrian --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Where Do I Find Reliable Info On Color Critical Monitor Choices?
Thanks All, I must say that a Color Calibrator (ColorSpyder or ColorMunki type unit) is absolutely at the top of my shopping list. I can state with unequivacobal authority that no matter how wonderful the 'software' calibration is built into our preferred OS, the fact our calibrations are done with 'Human Eyes' makes them completely unrepeatable. There is no getting around the variability of the 'sensors' never mind the ongoing variables of our 'brain's' flexible color perception and the changing nature of the illumination of the room the monitor is used - either the bulbs age and change or the varying 'solar' illumination of a window impinges on the situation. I DEFINITELY use the Software Calibration in OSX - on a quite routine basis! But it's always with the acceptance of it's limitations. It's a usable process, is a workable assistant in chasing color gremlins, but it falls short in critical ways. Richard On Jun 11, 11:50 am, Bruce Johnson john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu wrote: On Jun 10, 2009, at 9:10 PM, tortoise wrote: I'm 'provisionally' settled on the DELL ULTRASHARP 2408WFP 24-inch Widescreen Flat Panel Monitor which is a cnet award winner and highly reviewed there. The link to dell is http://accessories.us.dell.com/ sna/products/Monitors/productdetail.aspx? c=usl=ens=dhscs=19sku=320-6272. I' Does Dell really make their monitors ? No they don't, any more than Apple does. In fact Dell and Apple have used the same OEM's in the past. Don't know about now, but when Dell came out with THEIR 30 LCD, it was pretty quickly determined that they were from the same OEM as Apple and Dell had sales on their monitors much more often. -- Bruce Johnson University of Arizona College of Pharmacy Information Technology Group Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Where Do I Find Reliable Info On Color Critical Monitor Choices?
Thanks Al, That HP monitor looks like a nice option and a bit cheaper than the Dell UltraSharp 2408WFP 24 if I see the price quotes properly. I was startled by the humorous link to the OLED TV in one of the posts above, made me laugh anyway! :-), and I have decided to be careful how generously I spend on a monitor when the uber cool OLED products are just over the horizon. She won't buy a TV until they're available at a reasonable premium to the currend lcd/plasma options. MYSELF - I think they might be a massively cool Display Option with their massive contrast ratios. As a former darkroom/labrat/4x5 zone shooter - living without a 'real' black is kind of depressing! Watching a dvd or vid file with kind of dark grey bars top and bottom is about as much fun as a punch to the face! Bleah! :-) I am currently using an older HP lcd my Girlfriend passed on to me when we met and as a general use item, it's well designed and does pretty good for 'mainstream' tasks. It's definitely not a reliable screen for photo and vid work though and my buying process hasn't been able to start so my item one - color calibrator - isn't around to help yet. Richard On Jun 10, 2:02 pm, Al Poulin alfred.pou...@gmail.com wrote: On Jun 10, 9:08 am, Vic vma...@gmail.com wrote: On Jun 9, 11:45 am, aussieshepsrock ilovaussiesh...@yahoo.com wrote: Seeking a reliable web resource or resources to become knowledgeable in choosing a color critical Monitor for myself. Richard Have you looked at the reviews onhttp://www.tomshardware.com? V Mabus Richard: Why pass up the HP LP2475w? Reading between the lines, it appears that Richard has gone though the Macworld.com materials. The hard copy Macworld magazine for June 2009 ran a long review article on 24 inch displays. Out of five units, only the Apple was not matte. The HP LP2475w, with 4 1/2 mice came out as the pick. The LaCie 324 had the same mouse count but at a much higher cost. I cannot find a copy of the article: The Bigger Laptop Picture online. This is an overarching article about using displays as accessories to laptops. But there are details about the five units in separate reviews on line. The HP item is at:http://www.macworld.com/article/139684/2009/05/hp_lp2475w.html by James Galbraith, lab director. You can find the other reviews with a search on the author's name. The non-Apple units in the article included the Samsung SyncManster 245T and the ViewSonic VX2433wm. Don't waste your time on the latter except to be cheap. Al Poulin --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Where Do I Find Reliable Info On Color Critical Monitor Choices?
Seeking a reliable web resource or resources to become knowledgeable in choosing a color critical Monitor for myself. My google searches looking for websites or webpages were ludicrously scatter shot and mostly 'forum' posts dating back as much as multiple years and no way to differentiate from the 'knowledgeable', the opinionated, the flamer, the fan-boy, or the statistically irrelevant person screaming far and wide over some defective unit they encountered. I'm 'provisionally' settled on the DELL ULTRASHARP 2408WFP 24-inch Widescreen Flat Panel Monitor which is a cnet award winner and highly reviewed there. The link to dell is http://accessories.us.dell.com/ sna/products/Monitors/productdetail.aspx? c=usl=ens=dhscs=19sku=320-6272. I' The current Apple displays are permanently non-options due to glossy screens. I've also seen them described as wonderful and pathetic for critical color in the exact same web forum! I don't know where to go to become an Informed Consumer as I shop for a display. My budget for a monitor is open to spending 5, 6, or 7 hundred bucks on a terrific display. Richard Richard --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Where Do I Find Reliable Info On Color Critical Monitor Choices?
Me thinks I overstated my hopes and expectations! I'm not seeking a mission critical or pre-press/soft-proof grade Monitor, per se. I'm thinking more along the lines of Beautiful Monitor to live with and use for Photography Management and Editing, that is a terrific Video/dvd/movie wating device, and is eminently reliable/repeatable for using a ColorSpyder or ColorMunki calibrator with. I want what I see and 'do' with an image to be repeatable between now and next month and next year as long as I'm bring the file up on a screen calibrated to the same 'standards' as employed by the color management device. I am seeing 'posters' decrying the '@ss-munching Apple Displays and other 'posters' having a verbal-wet-dream describing Apple Displays! Confusion Reigns in the AussieShep Home! Richard On Jun 9, 2:29 pm, pdimage pdim...@btinternet.com wrote: On 9/6/09 18:45, aussieshepsrock ilovaussiesh...@yahoo.com wrote: Seeking a reliable web resource or resources to become knowledgeable in choosing a color critical Monitor for myself. My google searches looking for websites or webpages were ludicrously scatter shot and mostly 'forum' posts dating back as much as multiple years and no way to differentiate from the 'knowledgeable', the opinionated, the flamer, the fan-boy, or the statistically irrelevant person screaming far and wide over some defective unit they encountered. I'm 'provisionally' settled on the DELL ULTRASHARP 2408WFP 24-inch Widescreen Flat Panel Monitor which is a cnet award winner and highly reviewed there. The link to dell is http://accessories.us.dell.com/ sna/products/Monitors/productdetail.aspx? c=usl=ens=dhscs=19sku=320-6272. I' The current Apple displays are permanently non-options due to glossy screens. I've also seen them described as wonderful and pathetic for critical color in the exact same web forum! I don't know where to go to become an Informed Consumer as I shop for a display. My budget for a monitor is open to spending 5, 6, or 7 hundred bucks on a terrific display. Richard Colour critical monitors are usually classed as prepress monitors - very high end with very high end prices. Eizo ColorEdge are allegedly amongst the best flat panel if you are aiming that high. If not there are a wealth of choices - ok for everyday use but colour critical they are not - Samsung are quite good, Phillips are quite good (they provide some for Dell) etc. But flat panels still have a way to go to display realistic colour - WYSIWYG from screen to print is generally poorer on flat panels compared to crt and even plasma. Pete --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Where Do I Find Reliable Info On Color Critical Monitor Choices?
... here's the 'gotcha' - as I saw reading cnet and macworld monitor reviews... is the 'contrast ratio' of 40,000 to 1 the 'real' ratio or an 'interpolated' ratio delivered by playing with screen brightnesses during dark images/scenes to achieve the deeper blacks and brighter perceived whites? This was noted in a review or two I read as being called 'effective' contrast ratio and while it is a somewhat capable technology that improves some uses for a monitor, it doesn't change the 'absolute' values a monitor can deliver and - in my mind - a technology rendered moot when the monitor is under the control of a colorspyder or colormunki calibration and management regime. arrrgh I can speak the speak a bit in regard to monitors, but implementing the knowledge to choose a monitor reveals how much I don't KNOW! I just seek knowledge and resources :-) The ColorWiki website is proving interesting to 'learn' stuff, but where to go to gain more knowledge and basic understandings :-) Richard On Jun 9, 3:53 pm, Wallace Adrian D'Alessio fluxstrin...@gmail.com wrote: On Tue, Jun 9, 2009 at 1:45 PM, aussieshepsrock ilovaussiesh...@yahoo.comwrote: Seeking a reliable web resource or resources to become knowledgeable in choosing a color critical Monitor for myself. My google searches looking for websites or webpages were ludicrously scatter shot and mostly 'forum' posts dating back as much as multiple years and no way to differentiate from the 'knowledgeable', the opinionated, the flamer, the fan-boy, or the statistically irrelevant person screaming far and wide over some defective unit they encountered. I'm 'provisionally' settled on the DELL ULTRASHARP 2408WFP 24-inch Widescreen Flat Panel Monitor which is a cnet award winner and highly reviewed there. The link to dell is http://accessories.us.dell.com/ sna/products/Monitors/productdetail.aspx? c=usl=ens=dhscs=19sku=320-6272http://accessories.us.dell.com/%0Asna/products/Monitors/productdetail I' The current Apple displays are permanently non-options due to glossy screens. I've also seen them described as wonderful and pathetic for critical color in the exact same web forum! I don't know where to go to become an Informed Consumer as I shop for a display. My budget for a monitor is open to spending 5, 6, or 7 hundred bucks on a terrific display. __ Personally I look at contrast ratio. The wider the better. Acer has a 23 that Tiger Direct sells for less than $200 with 40,000 to 1 CR. To get an idea of what that means go to Walmart or other store and look at the Sony Bravia TVs with the same CR. CR equates to color depth. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Seeking Opinions on Elgato products
Hi - Thinking of getting some used /or new Elgato Products. They seem like 'good' Mac-like products that do what they do in a nice way (hardware software). Any thoughts someone might like to share. I am currently operating on a G4 Mini 1.25ghz/1gig/40gig with 10.4.11 and lots of external storage! 500+320+160gigs. Shortly to upgrade to a MacPro Tower (New is quite likely - but used isn't ruled out). I really like the concept of the AppleTV, but these elgato products seem to offer dvr, tuner, capture and conversion, etc etc. More bang for my buck type of idea is my thinking. Richard --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Keep Using SuperDuper or Switch To TimeMachine?
Hello, G4 1.37ghz 768mb/120g with recent upgrade to 10.4.6 from 10.4.11. I was using Superduper to keep this, my father's computer, backed up on a 100gig partition on an external firewire drive (with a seperate partition) holding the superdupe clone of my Mini's Internal HD which I run 10.4.11 on. I've never ever touched, seen, or used Timemachine before, but have a year or two of trust and experience with SuperDuper. Should I stick with that or give TimeMachine the job? Can it use a drive physically smaller than the internal drive in his G4? His drive has less than 40gig used and I know SuperDuper is OK with smaller drives holding the dupe of the original, but larger drive. The backup is kept 'offline' completely unplugged from anything unless being updated or 'rescuing' a problem situation. Does this influence TimeMachine's usability? I run SuperDuper on a manual basis on a fairly regular basis and my father backs up his snapshots from iphoto regularly on his own. Does anyone have an opinion on these issues? Thanks Richard --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: 10.5 Stopped Auto Logging-in on Home Wireless Network
On Apr 7, 3:38 am, Clark Martin cm...@sonic.net wrote: aussieshepsrock wrote: SOLVED_SOLVED_SOLVED The problem is fixed now! There was a compound issue of mis-labeled notes as to what the router access password was and the encryption key password was. My lack of routine use of these kind of items meant I didn't catch the 'obvious' difference between the two based on size of the character string! It might help to realize that the router access password is indeed a password while the encryption key password isn't a password, it is an encryption key. Well, I didn't want to 'flame' apple for a 'd...@ss' interface issue, but the whole 'root' of my inability to solve this problem quickly was the fact that OSX kept asking for 'A Password' each time I selected our home network in the airport dropdown menu within the find when the OS was really asking for 'the encryption key' to log into the home network. Also within the screens associated with the 'Network' contol panel it always requested a password when it was actually requesting the encryption key. To me, that is a flaw in the interface design. In my inexperience and lack of practice interacting with the control panels setting up the network (it really was a MAC-Like easybreezy set- it-n-forget-it experience setting the network up) I didn't quickly jive to the fact the router name password info in the our notes was specific to administering 'the router' itself and not for accessing the wireless network the router provides. I don't see why none of the screens use the label 'Encryption Key Password'. Our notes have it labeled as simply 'encryption key' and I think the advanced screens in the network control panel don't use the word 'password' in the entry points for the encryption key. It's definitely a 'small' flame! I love my mac and OSX! Any and all exposure to windows beyond 'simple and basic internet browsing' just serves to diminish my already low opinion of interacting with that operating system. A password is basically saved and compared when access is attempted. An encryption key is really some data that is combined mathematically with the data in an encryption algorithm to produce the encrypted data (which is then decrypted using the encryption key at the other end). Yep! I was fully aware of what the encryption key was being used for, but I can never recall it being called just 'Password' - EVER. I've run into this before, particularly with routers as there are a number of names, passwords, encryption keys and other pieces of information one must not only create but also keep them straight and record them. I usually record all of them along with the description of what they are on a single sheet of people. And when I set it up for a client I always keep a copy and give the client a copy if they want. Many don't want a copy because they know they are too likely to lose it or toss it at some later time. A 3x5 note card with our routers particulars and keys and passwords is exactly how we have recorded our info, we have a 'system' for info sort of similar to this and we keep it in the household lockbox. quite handy. With stuff like this you are usually far more likely to have trouble because you lost the data (or wrote it down cryptically) than it is likely someone will find the page and break into the network. The info isn't actually 'cryptic' but when OSX asked for 'password' I mistakenly kept entering the only info on the card with the label 'password' without jiving to the fact that OSX was requesting our properly labeled 'encryption key'. This fixed the 'invalid password' obstacle, but restarting waking from sleep still lost 'auto-login'. There were a string of Campground 'Access points' they had used over the winter clogging up the auto-login 'try' list in the network control panel. Our home network was like #15 in the scroll list! I dragged it to the top and voila all is well upon boot-up and wake-up. Interesting. I don't think I've every run into an overly long list but then I tend to clear it out from time to time. That's my Father! He seems to be actively working to avoid building cummulative knowledge from the years of interacting with his Mac, installing software, finding files, solving problems, and etc etc etc. Each instance seems to be treated as a discrete individual event that doesn't aggregate to a larger body of knowledge and experience. The man just retired from being the lead, goto guy to fix and maintain quarter of a billion dollar automated and computerized metal fabrication equipment! It's baffling. He's only 61 and sharp as a tack. I guess the fact it doesn't pack the ability to crush, kill or electrocute him in a split second trips him up!!! -- Clark Martin Redwood City, CA, USA Macintosh / Internet Consulting I'm a designated driver on the Information Super Highway --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message
10.5 Stopped Auto Logging-in on Home Wireless Network
Greetings - A G4 1.3ghz with 120gig/768mb running 10.5.6 (laptop) has stopped logging in automatically to our home wireless network (Linksys router distributing (properly) our cable internet to a wired PC, wirelessly to a PC laptop, and a wireless Mini running 10.4.11). I am completely lost resolving this issue - my Father had his computer rebuilt and upgraded to 10.5 during his winter in Vegas. Upon returning it autologged into the home network without issue for 3 weeks, but a week ago it started not trying to auto connect upon restart or waking from sleep and when the home network is maually selectet from the menubar drop-down - it demands the network password - but the known to be correct password' is used, it is returned as 'invalid password'. Can anyone offer input or advice? The home network is 'seen' just fine in the control panels and airport menu's. Father reports 'issue' developed after having to reboot the cable modem and router one morning when the household computers couldn't access the internet. Afterwards everyone else could 'surf the net' except him. Thanks Richard --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: 10.5 Stopped Auto Logging-in on Home Wireless Network
On Apr 6, 12:55 pm, aussieshepsrock ilovaussiesh...@yahoo.com wrote: Greetings - A G4 1.3ghz with 120gig/768mb running 10.5.6 (laptop) has stopped logging in automatically to our home wireless network (Linksys router distributing (properly) our cable internet to a wired PC, wirelessly to a PC laptop, and a wireless Mini running 10.4.11). I am completely lost resolving this issue - my Father had his computer rebuilt and upgraded to 10.5 during his winter in Vegas. Upon returning it autologged into the home network without issue for 3 weeks, but a week ago it started not trying to auto connect upon restart or waking from sleep and when the home network is maually selectet from the menubar drop-down - it demands the network password - but the known to be correct password' is used, it is returned as 'invalid password'. Can anyone offer input or advice? The home network is 'seen' just fine in the control panels and airport menu's. Father reports 'issue' developed after having to reboot the cable modem and router one morning when the household computers couldn't access the internet. Afterwards everyone else could 'surf the net' except him. Thanks Richard Did I make it clear that we CANT log into the home network at all at this point using his G4 computer? Everyone else's computer in the home isn't having ANY issues at all. Richard --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: 10.5 Stopped Auto Logging-in on Home Wireless Network
On Apr 6, 2:15 pm, Bruce Johnson john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu wrote: On Apr 6, 2009, at 9:55 AM, aussieshepsrock wrote: Upon returning it autologged into the home network without issue for 3 weeks, but a week ago it started not trying to auto connect upon restart or waking from sleep and when the home network is maually selectet from the menubar drop-down - it demands the network password - but the known to be correct password' is used, it is returned as 'invalid password'. Can anyone offer input or advice? I've had this happen occasionally at home with my Netgear or Airport Base station. What seems to fix it is one of these two things: Hi Bruce- 1) Restart the wireless access point (fixes it 90% of the time) We powered the modem down and the router,as well, a couple of times attempting to resolve the issue, but to no positive result. The Router AND Modem are completely usable and accessible with no problems after these reboots of the modem and access point (Router). The issue seems entirely specific to his g4. 2) Turn off the airport, get into Keychain Access, and deleting the saved password, Going into Networks prefs pane and telling it to forget the profile associated with the WAP; then turning on the Airport and going through the connection as if it was new. I will attempt this. My previous efforts included attempting to create a new profile in the Networks Control Panel specific to our home router, but it keeps demanding the router's password - then rejects (repeatedly) our network's password. I'll see what comes of your keychain access suggestion. We're *constantly* having issues like this with the cisco gear they've installed on campus. -- Back to ya soon - Richard Bruce Johnson University of Arizona College of Pharmacy Information Technology Group Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: 10.5 Stopped Auto Logging-in on Home Wireless Network
SOLVED_SOLVED_SOLVED The problem is fixed now! There was a compound issue of mis-labeled notes as to what the router access password was and the encryption key password was. My lack of routine use of these kind of items meant I didn't catch the 'obvious' difference between the two based on size of the character string! This fixed the 'invalid password' obstacle, but restarting waking from sleep still lost 'auto-login'. There were a string of Campground 'Access points' they had used over the winter clogging up the auto-login 'try' list in the network control panel. Our home network was like #15 in the scroll list! I dragged it to the top and voila all is well upon boot-up and wake-up. Thanks, Richard On Apr 6, 2:49 pm, aussieshepsrock ilovaussiesh...@yahoo.com wrote: On Apr 6, 2:15 pm, Bruce Johnson john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu wrote: On Apr 6, 2009, at 9:55 AM, aussieshepsrock wrote: Upon returning it autologged into the home network without issue for 3 weeks, but a week ago it started not trying to auto connect upon restart or waking from sleep and when the home network is maually selectet from the menubar drop-down - it demands the network password - but the known to be correct password' is used, it is returned as 'invalid password'. Can anyone offer input or advice? I've had this happen occasionally at home with my Netgear or Airport Base station. What seems to fix it is one of these two things: Hi Bruce- 1) Restart the wireless access point (fixes it 90% of the time) We powered the modem down and the router,as well, a couple of times attempting to resolve the issue, but to no positive result. The Router AND Modem are completely usable and accessible with no problems after these reboots of the modem and access point (Router). The issue seems entirely specific to his g4. 2) Turn off the airport, get into Keychain Access, and deleting the saved password, Going into Networks prefs pane and telling it to forget the profile associated with the WAP; then turning on the Airport and going through the connection as if it was new. I will attempt this. My previous efforts included attempting to create a new profile in the Networks Control Panel specific to our home router, but it keeps demanding the router's password - then rejects (repeatedly) our network's password. I'll see what comes of your keychain access suggestion. We're *constantly* having issues like this with the cisco gear they've installed on campus. -- Back to ya soon - Richard Bruce Johnson University of Arizona College of Pharmacy Information Technology Group Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Is paragon ntfs software reliable?
If it's just a hand full of files that you want to share between the computers, I've been using an online storage utility called DropBox. They will give you a free account, 2GB of storage. I've got it set up on my office computer (G4 Tower / Gigabit Ethernet) and also my notebook, HP Pavilion tx 1000, at home. It's okay on speed, I move adobe illustrator files, word and excel documents. Thanks Geno, Sounds like a nifty file moving setup for the 'smaller' stuff, but I am hoping to use it as a parking place for large photo video collections so they're accessible for my photographic hobbies and idle entertainment, as well. richard --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Is paragon ntfs software reliable?
On Apr 1, 4:54 am, pdimage pdim...@btinternet.com wrote: On 1/4/09 04:25, aussieshepsrock ilovaussiesh...@yahoo.com wrote: I'm entering a mixed marriage (girlfriend is a PC user) and I'm considering options for having co-usable data drives, files, and etcetera. (Yes, she's slowly being seduced by the powers of Light Goodness - the new iMac's made her go WOW!). I've seen a product called Paragon and I'm wondering is the guru's mucking around here have any experience with it? My Plan is to have an external drive with partitions or the whole drive in ntfs format so I can carry files between her place and mine and maybe do some work on a 'dark forces' peecee as needed. Thx Richard I've been using it with NTFS formatted external drives about two years now with no problems at all. Pete Thanks Pete! I think I'll give it a whirl. I'll first update my system clone in case an errant issue erupts! Richard --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Is paragon ntfs software reliable?
On Apr 1, 1:50 am, Steve R mailing.lists.2...@gmail.com wrote: At 8:25 PM -0700 3/31/09, aussieshepsrock posted: I'm entering a mixed marriage (girlfriend is a PC user) and I'm considering options for having co-usable data drives, files, and etcetera. (Yes, she's slowly being seduced by the powers of Light Goodness - the new iMac's made her go WOW!). I've seen a product called Paragon and I'm wondering is the guru's mucking around here have any experience with it? My Plan is to have an external drive with partitions or the whole drive in ntfs format so I can carry files between her place and mine and maybe do some work on a 'dark forces' peecee as needed. If you plan on using the external drive for storing files (versus running applications) why not format as FAT-32 which needs no extra drivers or applications for either OS? The only limitation is the 4GB file size limit. Format the drive on the Mac, add files. Steve R Thanks for the tip. I'm leaning towards ntfs because IF my inadequate memory is right - there are file name and icon issues I've encountered under fat-32. My photo archiving process is kind of dependent upon correct filename and folder name outcomes. Have you encountered filename issues with fat-32? Richard --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Is paragon ntfs software reliable?
I'm entering a mixed marriage (girlfriend is a PC user) and I'm considering options for having co-usable data drives, files, and etcetera. (Yes, she's slowly being seduced by the powers of Light Goodness - the new iMac's made her go WOW!). I've seen a product called Paragon and I'm wondering is the guru's mucking around here have any experience with it? My Plan is to have an external drive with partitions or the whole drive in ntfs format so I can carry files between her place and mine and maybe do some work on a 'dark forces' peecee as needed. Thx Richard Mac Mini G4, 1gig, 40gig, 10.4.11 --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
OS9 Image Viewer/Slideshow App Suggestions?
HiYa, I'm setting up a Wallstreet running OS9 and I'm looking for a 'Preview.app' type program I can use to look at jpegs and run full screen slideshows with. It's been forever since I've been in 9 and can't think of what to use to get Preview like tools. Not that I like Preview!, but it does what it does fairly decently and I could really use those tools on my Powerbook. Richard --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Recommend a Scanner
You might want to check out the Epson Perfection Series. I personally use the now discontinued 4870 Photo model which has a nice built in transparency adapter and film holders ranging from mounted 35mm slides (8 at a time), 35mm negative strips (4 at a time), 120 neg strips, and 4x5 (2 at a time). The software is fully osx compatible and VueScan will work with it if interested. (Vuescan IS capable of better scans, but the learning curve was very hard for me and I stick with the Epson drivers). The Epson site also routinely has good deals on closeouts and refurbs. Tip: The perfection models lacking 'photo' don't sport the transparency adapter (generally) and the Photo Pro models sport a more robust software set. (your mileage may vary on this tip) On the upside, the 4870 Perfections and others have ICE technology which in these cases work with prints as well as negatives. ICE is a blend of hardware and software which adds a 'surface height' scan to find dust and scratches on your film and prints and 'filter' them out of the final scan through techniques similar to 'cloning' in photoshop. I've oversimplified the description here - but up to a point it does work. It does have tradeoffs, but it's better to have it than not to. Not All Scanners Have ICE! Richard On Jan 26, 2:02 pm, PaperSmyth papersm...@gmail.com wrote: Hi, Guys. Can anyone recommend a currently available artist quality scanner that will work with my G4 MDD running OS X 10.3 (and probably will upgrade to 10.4)? I did check the archives, but the related topics are a little dated. Thanks. Nico PaperSmyth --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Shot Self in Foot, Need First Aid
To NOT be very helpful: Don't Aim Higher or To The Midline When Next Handling a Shooting Device. Richard On Jan 24, 12:12 am, tonycd tonyl...@sbcglobal.net wrote: Hi. (Deep breaths.) I have just received my G4 upgrade card (single 1.6 GHz 7447) from OWC. As the first step in failing to install it, I have utterly paralyzed my perfectly good Quicksilver 867 before either installing or removing a single item of hardware. The first step of the instruction book calls for reflashing the boot ROM up to version 4.2.8. This is already where it starts to get confusing, because the instructions are unclear on whether a Quicksilver needs this step. First, I tried using the provided firmware-updater CD in conjunction with the tiny programmer's button on the face of my machine. The button didn't work as the instructions suggested it would -- in fact, it had no apparent effect on startup whatsoever. I then tried starting at the second step of the instructions: booting into the firmware updater CD. I was able to do this, but the updater's text-only screen said it couldn't reflash, and shut the machine down. It appeared only the boot ROM installation would make the firmware upgrade installable. I checked my machine for my current boot ROM (earlier); it was 4.2.5 followed by a single letter (i?). I downloaded the ROM installer from the specified Apple URL, but found it only worked in OS 9. (I have Tiger and Classic 9.2.2.) I switched Startup Mode into 9.2.2, restarted and got the flashing question mark. Thinking the CD might be a complication, I tried to remove it and couldn't. I popped the case, disconnected its ATA cable, pushed the reset, tried again and still got the flashing ?. (The Quicksilver case, of course, is ingeniously designed so you can't simply push the CD drive's button to get the disc out without complete disassembly of the case. I love fashion.) I then tried to hook up the external FireWire drive I had just CC- Cloned my entire hard drive contents onto. I hit the power button, held down the T key, and this time, the machine simply shut itself off after about 5 seconds. Then I tried the same drill I'd used to disable the CD drive, except on the internal hard drive, to force it to the system on the FireWire drive. No soap there either. I now have: •A CD stuck in the drive, •a flashing question mark, •a Startup Items preference set to 9.2.2 that I can't access in order to change, •no new boot ROM, •no updated firmware, •no new processor, •and no Mac (except the borrowed one on which I'm typing this post). Hl! Yours in absolute exasperation, Tony --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Can my Mac Access my Cable DVR Box 'safely'?
Hi All, Can I use my Mac (g4 mini) to access the recordings in our Cable DVR Box in a 'safe' to the box manner and in a 'successful' manner? It is a 'Motorola DCH 3416 HD Dual Tuner DVR' with all the usual video and audio connectors one might expect, but I noticed there are 2 USB ports and a Firewire port right there on the connection panel on the back of the box. I 'assume' accessing the Hard Drive inside the Box via one of these jacks would be fairly likely, but I wonder what pitfalls and perils I ought to be aware of before attempting anything. I also wonder if the files it uses might be proprietary and/or unaccessable or usable on my Mac. My nebulous goal is the possibility of getting the recordings out and onto opticals in some fashion. Mostly it is just plain technological curiousity rearing it's head. It gives me a lot of 'geek' cred in the household knowing lots of 'useless' stuff like how to get videos out of the 'magic' cable box! :-) Thanks All Richard --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Can my Mac Access my Cable DVR Box 'safely'?
Thanks Dan, I went to 'broadbandreports.com' and nothing definitive jumped out at me as I searched around. Tangental postings give the impression that The 'content police' seem to be actively working towards their goal of destroying access to copyright material retention short of deleting our memories. Bummer. I'm flexible on eye patch related sourcing issues, but I'm not an eye patch content provider :-). CNBC reported this morning that an internet tv show provider -name escapes me- is pressing quite hard to come up with an Internet TV Content sourcing process that is holistic and inclusive of all cabletv network content that is embraced by essentially everyone so everyone 'buys into it' and shares in the revenues. The cnbc folks were split generationally on it's appeal and unanimous in the huge challenge of getting 'everyone' to sign up. Seemed like they were looking at an iTunes kind of portal based on ad revenues for income. A 'true' internet based 'cable tv' site. Richard On Jan 13, 12:13 pm, Dan dantear...@gmail.com wrote: At 8:23 AM -0800 1/13/2009, aussieshepsrock wrote: Can I use my Mac (g4 mini) to access the recordings in our Cable DVR Box in a 'safe' to the box manner and in a 'successful' manner? It is a 'Motorola DCH 3416 HD Dual Tuner DVR' with all the usual video and audio connectors one might expect, but I noticed there are 2 USB ports and a Firewire port right there on the connection panel on the back of the box. I 'assume' accessing the Hard Drive inside the Box via one of these jacks would be fairly likely, but I wonder what pitfalls and perils I ought to be aware of before attempting anything. I also wonder if the files it uses might be proprietary and/or unaccessable or usable on my Mac. I've got Verizon FiOS TV and a Motorola DVR... Verizon has *disabled* all those extra ports. Can't even use them to add more storage space! Go to broadbandreports.com and look for information about your DVR and service provider on their boards. Make sure they're not disabled on yours before going further... My nebulous goal is the possibility of getting the recordings out and onto opticals in some fashion. Best I've been able to do is to put a $40 DVD Recorder between my DVR and TV. Not a very good solution, but it does work. It would be very cool to grab stuff and play it elsewhere, a la Slingbox or TiVo. I'm reluctant to buy or build any infrastructure to do this right now tho. The market is changing so much. It's only a matter of time before the cables loose control and we can get all the shows over the 'net. heh. I keep looking at that eye-patch sitting on my desk. :\ FWIW, - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Where do I learn.... becomes archiving files and images- the future
Hello Dan, Your suggestion of an iPhoto Coffee Table Book might make an excellent add-on to go out with the copies of the optical disc sets I am planning to distribute. I could cherry pick some of the best images, caption them, and make a nice pre-packaged album. As a method of generating a hardcopy storage output of the images in the collection, it's pretty unsatisfactory due to it's a) not being a long lasting visual medium and b) the picture quality can be rather hit or miss without a rigorous matching of one's files to the book printing process and the resolution is rather on the low side. The books themselves are definitely a good idea and can offer the chance to Graphic Design an album rather than knocking together one from small prints. Thanks, Richard On Jan 9, 10:52 am, Dan dantear...@gmail.com wrote: At 10:10 PM -0800 1/8/2009, Paul wrote: One thing that never got mentioned was how much storage this project will use. Are you talking about dozens of DVD's, or over 100? Have you considered making at least one hard copy of the whole thing, for the sake of redundancy and for the greatest accessibility? Not necessarily for the primary hardcopy storage - but doesn't iPhoto have the ability to make a pdf of a coffee table type book? - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Where do I learn.... becomes archiving files and images- the future
HiYa Pete and Everyone! On Jan 12, 7:47 am, pdimage pdim...@btinternet.com wrote: On 8/1/09 22:29, aussieshepsrock ilovaussiesh...@yahoo.com wrote: HiYa Pete and Everyone, My intended Scanning Methodology - Seperate from my Media Storage Options - is something like this. I've only done a 50 image or so 'test' run to sort out file size and physical process considerations at this point. Some of this is based on some comparative tests of various 'scanner driver' options. TIFF with internal compression OFF Photograph Fronts: 600 DPI Resolution 24 BIT Color Depth Digital ICE OFF - It's mucking much more than it's fixing. Unsharp Mask (in scanner software) at the High Setting because it appears to be a well behaved and subtle implementation in my testing up to this point. Photograph Backs: 300 DPI Resolution 8 Bit Grey Scale Unsharp Mask set to High All images receive Levels Adjustments Set Manually. The sliders for each color channel are tweaked individually so the sliders are just past the Highest and Lowest Point on the Histogram Display for Each Channel - ie the darkest/dimmest value is changed from zero to 9 if the scans histogram shows no info below 10. I am cautious about overpowering a particular channels level adjustments and making an image look 'wierd'. I believe this is called manually clipping the highlights and shadows. I can find very little 'standards or good practices' info via google or yahoo searches. This is just how I've learned to go about getting good scan results since my first encounter with a grayscale only flatbed back in the early nineties! Let me dive in. :-) Well you seem to have quite a job on so here's a few tips. It is going to be a bit of a slog. It's the most photo scans I've ever done at once, although I have worked a couple times at jobs where high- speed document scanning was a part of what I had to do. A rather different beast that only in a narrow sense is the same as scanning photo's. :-) The optical resolution of your scanner - say 600x600ppi for this purpose - is the limit for original capture - higher resolutions like 9600x9600ppi can only be provided by interpolation ... Your input is greatly appreciated, but I'm fully up on the Optical vs Interpolated with Scanners. I have actually re-discovered the knowledge that my Epson 4870 PHOTO Perfection scanner only does Transparencies Film at 4800 dpi! Document/Reflective scans top out at a respectable 1200x1200 true optical resolution. If memory serves, it's because a different lens and a narrower scan path is used for film that gives the higher resolution, but don't quote me on it. Unsharp masking is better done selectively per image in Pshop if you have it as ramping the edges to provide a sharper image can produce artifacts. You are quite right about the Unsharp Masking in Photoshop being an incredibly better tool than the ones in scanning software itself. However, when the autoexposure system isn't used in the epson driver and it's harsh restoration and autopilot systems are avoided, the Unsharp set up in the Epson Scan has a very light touch in the 1200 dpi scan tests I've done. As a matter of fact, it's about a quarter of the strength my Photoshop Experience tells me that would be necessary to negatively effect an image's quality in any way. There is nothing dramatic about the differences between ON or OFF, it's there, measurable, but subtle. Levels is a destructive process which affects the entire image - if you move the black point or white point by 10% you are not only disposing of 25 channel levels from each colour - you are creating 25 new ones for each colour as each channel must have 256 levels. I use the non destructive curves if at all possible and reserve level adjustment for very poor low key originals. I only have personal experience to draw upon because authoritative information about this has been difficult to find, but I have doubts as to your statement's applicability to how I edit the levels and how I carefully monitor my levels adjustments and their effect regarding each level and how the levels act in conjunction to generate the whole image. I'll try to find a better way to write how I edit levels, how I approach them as a photo person, and what makes my methods seem to be 'non destructive' from my perspective as a photographer and someone trying to be faithful to what is or isn't in a scan. Highest resolution? I would say around the 200/300ppi mark unless they are earmarked for substantial enlargement. The human eye can only resolve around 180 levels, b/w newspapers print photos at around 80 lines of dots per inch (the cheap paper limits the res) and we see them well as images. Glossy colour mags 133/150/175 lines of dots per inch and they look very acceptable even though the CMYK space is smaller than RGB. Computer monitors are limited by dot pitch and can only manage hardware res around
Re: Where do I learn.... becomes archiving files and images- the future
Topic: Storing Original Prints As Best Option - A Discussion Upfront! Well Kept Prints Are By leaps and bounds this is UNEQUIVOCABLY The Best Option! Any and All Atempts To Explain Doing So Is Best Is To Be 'Preaching To The Choir'. My Photographic Skils Come Out Of Large Format Cameras And Sporting Darkroom Tans. Give me properly processed 4x5 negatives and fibre based prints or Cibachrome Color Prints and I'll be the Most Happy guy around! Having established THAT data point! :-) I have to accept the photos in this box for what they mostly are. CHEAP Color Prints from the late Seventies to Early Nineties. By Definition that makes them NON-Archival. The later stuff will take a fair bit longer to self destruct, but self destruct they will. They have also lived a semi-rough life in the environs of my Grand Mothers home. Loved, but not well stored or temperature protected for the most part. The clock is ticking on these pictures. I would like to have a Non Computer Based Solution to 'Saving' these images and distributing them. I actually have one, but the agreggate cost might be daunting. I can take the Digital Files I am making and print them at the local Professional Photo Lab we have in this town. It's actually a semi- major player nationally and draws clients globally. I used to work there 7 or 8 years ago. Great People. For anything beyond snapshots EVERYTHING I need printed goes to them. Period. They aren't overwhelmingly expensive, but their Quality is Many Orders Of Magnitude Better than using Walgreens or Walmart or Snapfish or Whatever. It would likely cost 150+ dollars a copy just for each set of prints, but I have worked out a process of using Photoshop to divide an 8x10 into 5x8 halves showing each photo and an associated data block showing the available info for each photo. Going this route would buy in to the absolute best printing papers and high quality printing processes to give the longest living color prints I am likely to reasonably encounter. The high res scans would 'hold' more absolute photographic info, but the prints would have the benefit of only needing photon's and breathing people to be accessible in the future! The good ole Mark One Eyeball. Technology Extrordinaire! The likely availability of light and people 5-10 years from now is statistically pretty hopeful! The certainty of cd's, dvd's, or HD's a Decade out might be more squishy! LOL The issue for me is that 2 sets of prints and associated appropriate storage materials looks like a 500 dollar minimum buy in. It is definitely a goal to have this print set, but I don't see how to make it yet. Richard --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Where do I learn.... becomes archiving files and images- the future
Thanks for the Support and Sympathy Bruce. I will swallow my diatribes about 'him' except to unequivocably state he has forfeited his status as member of the Human Race. There is no stepping back from the actions he took in this instance. Yet, it's just one of a collection of instances. Transatlantic Soccer Goals With His Testes is just a good start. ccoe! Richard On Jan 9, 6:29 pm, Bruce Johnson john...@pharmacy.arizona.edu wrote: On Jan 9, 2009, at 3:18 PM, aussieshepsrock wrote: This box I temporarily have only exist because my Aunt happened to spot it atop the trash can at the curb when she dropped by unannounced. Unannounced visits are mostly the only way to see my Grandma because 'HE' finds ways to prevent or delay most visits. Yes, Grandma is in a Strong Cognitive Decline, but 'HE' has never knowingly 'Physically Harmed' her. The cognitive decline is the only way he was able to destroy her precious photograph collection. Absent physical or fiscal abuse the families ability to step in is severely limited. This is a classic sign of controlling behavior. Since she is in cognitive decline, physical and psychological abuse are very hard to diagnose, many municipalities have domestic violence agencies that can help you with this sort of thing, and make no mistake...what he did was domestic violence. Personally I'd have kicked him so hard I'd have scored field goals in Estonia and Turkey simultaneously with his balls, that's an unforgivable piece of assholery. (but I'm probably a bit sensitive. A great-aunt of mine had a similar vast collection of photos and genealogical information compiled about the family, including stuff from people who were long dead...she felt slighted by her sisters for some thing or another, went home and threw it all into the fireplace.) -- Bruce Johnson University of Arizona College of Pharmacy Information Technology Group Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Where do I learn.... becomes archiving files and images- the future
On Jan 9, 8:07 pm, Charles Davis c...@gamewood.net wrote: On Jan 9, 2009, at 7:30 PM, aussieshepsrock wrote: Hi Chuck! Topic: Storing Original Prints As Best Option - A Discussion Upfront! Well Kept Prints Are By leaps and bounds this is UNEQUIVOCABLY The Best Option! Any and All Atempts To Explain Doing So Is Best Is To Be 'Preaching To The Choir'. My Photographic Skils Come Out Of Large Format Cameras And Sporting Darkroom Tans. Give me properly processed 4x5 negatives and fibre based prints or Cibachrome Color Prints and I'll be the Most Happy guy around! Which is why you are aware that 'photographic' (chemical/ paper/ negative) copies have the potential to NOT lose hidden data. [Talking about 'granularity' of the image, for BW, Color is a bit different, but still BOTH contain far more data than a 'granularity = 600 or 1200 dpi can record. I am still 'source material' limited here. Your arguments are exceptionally valid and I don't dispute them in any way. Being satisfied with the appearance of a 4x6 at 600 dpi, is fine, IF that 600 dpi is derived from 1200 dpi or 2400 dpi original data. Nice chunks of this collection have solidly visible film grain. I have almost NO negatives to confirm this, but I suspect 110 and Disc camera sources for some of these images. Even the ones sourced from 35mm were either shot on horrifically bad film stock, shot with astonishingly bad cameras, or printed quite poorly in a high volume situation - Likely combinations of all three at once! Blury highly visible film grain scanned at 1200 dpi is legitimately wasting at least half the pixels. :-) although, I do really like over scans of this type for doing heavy duty dust, speckle, and scratch removal activity in photoshop. you have the higher resolution data available, you can drop quality all you want when you are printing, with no problem. But there is a limit as to how much you can enlarge things depending on the dpi available to you AT THAT TIME. Once you cut the dpi information, that's the NEW limit. Can't magically get those pixels back. :-) Agreed! - I also face the loss of info from the horrific printing process these negatives experienced! Having established THAT data point! :-) I have to accept the photos in this box for what they mostly are. CHEAP Color Prints from the late Seventies to Early Nineties. By Definition that makes them NON-Archival. But you can transfer those pics to current 'photo quality' with attention to using archival grade materials when appropriate. I am trying to put together a print process to go alongside the digital storage arrangement. It might be the 2nd stage of the my project. The later stuff will take a fair bit longer to self destruct, but self destruct they will. They have also lived a semi-rough life in the environs of my Grand Mothers home. Loved, but not well stored or temperature protected for the most part. The clock is ticking on these pictures. Fortunately, you shouldn't be having 'Next Week' deadline problems. :-) Agreed! I just wanted to differentiate these prints versus the much longer living black and white prints people might have in their heads. Color prints, especially early high volume stuff are an entirely different beast. Most of the Treasures in Grandma's Collection were BW and THEY ARE GONE. I would like to have a Non Computer Based Solution to 'Saving' these images and distributing them. I actually have one, but the agreggate cost might be daunting. I can take the Digital Files I am making and print them at the local Professional Photo Lab we have in this town. It's actually a semi- major player nationally and draws clients globally. I used to work there 7 or 8 years ago. Great People. For anything beyond snapshots EVERYTHING I need printed goes to them. Period. They aren't overwhelmingly expensive, but their Quality is Many Orders Of Magnitude Better than using Walgreens or Walmart or Snapfish or Whatever. Remember, as good as you say they are, you have already 'reduced' the grain/pixel information. The 'Reduction' of Information Argument you are presenting is Valid. The response I'm giving is to say that the Grain of The Paper is being used to reproduce huge film grain in minute detail. A 600 dpi scan of Film Grain I can sometimes measure with a Ruler! Were these prints made from ANY camera I've Used Routinely - even the 'Bad' stuff from my early days they would merit MUCH higher resolution scans. I have a Shot on ordinary Kodak Gold shot with a K-mart Focal Brand Wide Angle that has incredibly more detail at 8x10 than many of these 3x5's. I am not disparaging her Camera's or her Pictures by comparing them to what I would have gotten from my Zeiss, my Rolleiflex, or my 4x5 from back in my Film Days. I am factually stating that a Fuji Single Use 35mm Camera would have been a Giant step up in Image Quality! Please Trust Me On This! I have seen Higher
Re: Where do I learn.... becomes archiving files and images- the future
On Jan 9, 8:15 pm, John Callahan jcalla...@stny.rr.com wrote: On Jan 9, 2009, at 10:52 AM, Dan wrote: Hi John! At 10:10 PM -0800 1/8/2009, Paul wrote: One thing that never got mentioned was how much storage this project will use. Are you talking about dozens of DVD's, or over 100? - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth I did a Post re: archive size - nothing definite yet. My Options on file size, dpi variables, and potential individual file compression usage, are not locked in place yet. I WANT to keep it to 10-15 DVD's but still prefering CDR's at this point. Research is ongoing. Haven't read anything in this discussion about the use of flash memory for archiving photographs etc. Would someone expand on this? Great discussion, one of the best and most informative I've seen on LEM. Excellent Question! Easily Answered! Flash Memory IS NOT ARCHIVAL. Period! To Over Simplify The Reason - The fast changing materials which 'flash' on and off to store the 1's and 0's are inherently unstable. For the Memory to be quick it has to change fast, but a quickly changing material generally doesn't resist change well. Over time the material evolves to give an incorrect 1 or 0 or an indeterminate answer. Compared to the volatile system ram in our mac's they last a really flippin long time. But long term storage it isn't. I can over personal experience of having encountered messed up files on my CF cards that were sitting unused for a couple of months. I usually keep em empty for quick use as needed, but a 128mb card and an 8mp dSLR is essentially an exercise in futility! The 128's sat in a draw as soon as my 20D came on the scene! John Callahan Richard If there are no dogs in Heaven, when I die I want to go where they went.¨ . Ah - What He Said Times TEN. Go Will Rogers! --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Where do I learn.... becomes archiving files and images- the future
Flash Memory IS NOT ARCHIVAL. Period! To Over Simplify The Reason - The fast changing materials which 'flash' on and off to store the 1's and 0's are inherently unstable. For the Memory to be quick it has to change fast, but a quickly changing material generally doesn't resist change well. Over time the material evolves to give an incorrect 1 or 0 or an indeterminate answer. Compared to the volatile system ram in our mac's they last a really flippin long time. But long term storage it isn't. Yes, I know I muffed my analogies in that expanation, but the essence is valid. The method the 1's and 0's are stored is inherently unstable and the 1's and 0's don't stay as specified in a durable manner. The 'data' in a sense evolves on it's own and can't be relied upon in a 'calendar' based measurement of time. Is that phrased better? Richard --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Where do I learn about long lasting cdr's or dvdr's ????
As for Safe's with 'electronic' combination locks running off batteries - I have seen them in action when they switched the Store Safe out during a Remodeling back when I was running a 1hr lab for Walgreens. They are about as secure as a White Picket Fence! Due to some battery issues early on, our managers quickly figured out how easy it was to pop the cover and release the lock without the keypad combo so it became routine to open the safe that way at the drop of a hat! Fat-Finger a combo - Pop Cover and OPEN almost as fast as tapping the combo pad! I found this quite distrubing because the safe it self was fairly substandial in size and construction in all other regards but opening it was as easy as changing the batteries in a TV Remote! WOW The 'Classic' Dial Lock might be 'easily' defeated with the proper experience and technology, BUT it's definitely NOT a PLASTIC BOX that is designed to easiy open and contains it's own Internal Override SWITCH either In theory and potential implementation an electronic lock makes it is easy to have quickly changing and changeable combinations in a retail environment with multiple and changing employees coming and going. BUT hire REAL ENGINEERS and NOT Toy Makers!!! :-) Richard On Jan 8, 7:34 am, Charles Lenington macso...@brightok.net wrote: Bruce Johnson wrote: On Jan 7, 2009, at 1:32 PM, John Callahan wrote: snip- Damn, you can get larger boxes, but apparently not from them anymore. A friend had one, I thought it was by them, which was large enough for a sizable camera/lens collection. There are other manufacturers , here's one http://www.uwkinetics.com/ , any dive shop or whitewater shop should steer you correctly. Another large pile of sources: http://www.opticsplanet.net/dry-cases.html I made the comment about vacuum sealing the disk's before I got all the way down to the vacuum issue. I was in Sam's Club (Midwest City, OK) yesterday and they had a Sentry safe on the shelf for $152+/-. The advertising on box claims 1 hour fire protection from normal fires and waterproofing for dvd/cds. I personally would be leery of a lock that took batteries. I guess if you were the type to change batteries in your smoke detectors, then the safe would be remembered also. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Where do I learn.... becomes archiving files and images- the future
HiYa Pete and Everyone, My intended Scanning Methodology - Seperate from my Media Storage Options - is something like this. I've only done a 50 image or so 'test' run to sort out file size and physical process considerations at this point. Some of this is based on some comparative tests of various 'scanner driver' options. TIFF with internal compression OFF Photograph Fronts: 600 DPI Resolution 24 BIT Color Depth Digital ICE OFF - It's mucking much more than it's fixing. Unsharp Mask (in scanner software) at the High Setting because it appears to be a well behaved and subtle implementation in my testing up to this point. Photograph Backs: 300 DPI Resolution 8 Bit Grey Scale Unsharp Mask set to High All images receive Levels Adjustments Set Manually. The sliders for each color channel are tweaked individually so the sliders are just past the Highest and Lowest Point on the Histogram Display for Each Channel - ie the darkest/dimmest value is changed from zero to 9 if the scans histogram shows no info below 10. I am cautious about overpowering a particular channels level adjustments and making an image look 'wierd'. I believe this is called manually clipping the highlights and shadows. I can find very little 'standards or good practices' info via google or yahoo searches. This is just how I've learned to go about getting good scan results since my first encounter with a grayscale only flatbed back in the early nineties! I'm scanning Fronts and Backs using the scanners auto name and numbering setup to coordinate The front and back of image scans in my files. I am using a file name system of '12-15-08 Scans - Back -005.tif' where the Date describes the date the scan was made on, if it's the front or back, and 005 is the 5th image scanned that day. The physical process is that I arrange the photos on the scanner, do the multiple marquee's for the different images with attendant Levels adjustments, hit SCAN and verify the file name is correct and so is the auto number start point. After the fronts finish scanning, I carefully flip the images, switch to greyscale and lower resolution, and make sure the file name is changed and the auto number start point is rolled back to the right point. My theory is to scan the fronts and backs in order to capture things written on the backs of the photo's themselves. I am physically scanning ALL the backs - even those with nothing marked on them - because it was more efficient to just flip the images over to scan all the backs with a filename and auto number adjustment than coordinate which image with stuff written on it matched up with which file name and number and manually set each name for each scan that needed to be made. By scanning every damn picture back it makes it a lot simpler and faster to get the file names right, if I muff the filename having scanned the back becomes totally meaningless as source of information. Also scanning ALL of them helps avoid missing photo backs that I want scanned. At the conclusion I intend to simply delete all the scans of photo backs nobody wrote anything on. :-) This is the extent of my plan to this point. I'll be kicking off the scanning soon, so valuable suggestions on this side of my project would be really cool so I don't have to rescan stuff! :-) My Intention/Plan is to have 'picture naming' memory parties with various family members in order to view the photo's and add the appropriate info to the image files. Each images specific info will be kept integrat to each specific image file. I haven't researched the exact way to put the info in the tiff's themselves, but I'm feeling confident that the EXIF info I love in my Digital Photography are part of an international standards setup and I can easily access and use that process using Photoshop, Lightroom, Aperture, and the like. This whole name/date/event side of the project is a work in progress at this point. Richard Worth bearing in mind is the effect of differing colour profiles - an image which has been optimised on a monitor in the sRGB colourspace will look very different on a monitor which uses a wider profile like the Adobe wide Gamut space - as the channel/level info will be recalculated up to suit and similarly the other way - data from a wider colourspace is shrunk - or in the case of absolute colorimetric dumped - to fit the smaller space. I don't actually use the Fuji Pro black discs for image storage at all - I use them for Red Book CD Audio - and no coasters or failures yet though I imagine audio is the most punishing use of CDR - in and out of jewel cases etc Pete --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To
Re: Where do I learn.... becomes archiving files and images- the future
Hi Chuck, TIFF with internal compression OFF Photograph Fronts: 600 DPI Resolution IF you can stand the increase in file size, go for more DPI. Absent a rescan of the original, it's information that can never be duplicated. I am really leaning towards 1200 dpi, but aproximately 70% of these images I'm scanning were shot with the cheapest of cameras and are the cheapest of machine prints. 1200 dpi scans of originals that represent a resolving power less than half of that is a serious waste of effort and file size. Im serious folks, these were taken with the $5 specials were grandma's camera of choice. Name Brand Single Use Cameras had better optics! I have to do some math in regards to total number of images and what the final file collection may represent in terms of aggregate total Gig's I will be dealing with. I want to keep the 'Disc Set' in either the 5 disc or 10 disc range. I think I'll be forced into DVD-r's by the agregate file size. I don't want to drop a huge quantity of CD-r's on people, but they would be my preference. Photograph Backs: 300 DPI Resolution Adequate for pencil/pen text data. That's what my experiments told me. :-) 8 Bit Grey Scale Unsharp Mask set to High All images receive Levels Adjustments Set Manually. The sliders for each color channel are tweaked individually so the sliders are just past the Highest and Lowest Point on the Histogram Display for Each Channel - ie the darkest/dimmest value is changed from zero to 9 if the scans histogram shows no info below 10. I am cautious about overpowering a particular channels level adjustments and making an image look 'wierd'. I believe this is called manually clipping the highlights and shadows. I can find very little 'standards or good practices' info via google or yahoo searches. This is just how I've learned to go about getting good scan results since my first encounter with a grayscale only flatbed back in the early nineties! Youve worked out something that you are satisfied with, go for it! Thanks! I plan to! My Intention/Plan is to have 'picture naming' memory parties with various family members in order to view the photo's and add the appropriate info to the image files. IF you can add text to the 'back' images, that would simplify things. Also maybe make use of those 'blank' backs? I hadn't thought of that option! I don't particularly think I can make it work well from an implementation viewpoint. I think taking advantage of the EXIF Standards that already exist for Photographic Creators, Distributors, and Users to include full and complete information about Who/What/Where/When along with a TON of other information in the Professional Digital Photography Images will be my best bet. I have more research to do, but I think it would be a complete gift to my relatives of the future in searching for specific pictures of specific people. You may be pleasantly surprised by the amount of 'forgotten' information recoverable at your 'Naming Parties'. I am counting on that! I also know my family is going to have a blast remembering things. I just had the thought of videotaping the parties to record the stories and the people interacting. hm Also, work out in advance how YOU are going to handle 'conflicting' memory information. (Avoid any fights if at all possible.) Since little of the photos remain from Grandma's early days of photographing her kids and the photo's of earlier generations, exact photograph dates and events and names aren't an option. I will note the uncertainty in some manner in my files and notes. I am thinking of having some sort of 'Data Sheet' printed and having people at the events write their notes on them. Each Sheet would have a matching file name or small preview image on them. Maybe I would then scan them and line the file names up in my file naming structure somehow. As well as distilling the info into tags on the files. By the way, I have an aging parent who is showing an accelerating presence of Alzheimers like symptoms. I also have a very unusual way of storing and recalling memories. Exact names and textual type info and exact procedural memories are quite the mish mash. My relationship with the sensing and remembering of things related to days, dates, and times is quite problematic. It's like the the file cards in my head get shuffled and redealt on a routine basis. Mis-remembered events and the blending of stories or people is a part of my everyday life in one way or another! Richard --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To
Re: Where do I learn.... becomes archiving files and images- the future
Original Poster here.. This jpeg vs tiff question is pretty important to me. My personal experience with jpegs is that the inherent nature of how the compression it uses works, very little quantities of data loss equate with the Functional Loss of the image. My limited knowledge of the 'nature' of TIFF is that (to some extent) it is more resistant to losing the entire image if data describing specific pixels is lost or compromised. Does anyone know if this is correct? A further question I have is that the TIFF 'standards' site I was looking at indicates that a previously 'patented' compression option inside of TIFF -I believe the LZW option- was transfered to the public domain -or something similar- so it is considered an open standard that Archive and Library folks and companies are more comfortable using it. My question is whether the LossLess Internal File Compression option makes the individual files be more at risk in the presence of 'partial' file loss? :-) Richard On Jan 7, 2:18 pm, Doug McNutt dougl...@macnauchtan.com wrote: At 13:12 -0500 1/7/09, Dan wrote: At 8:36 AM -0700 1/7/2009, Bruce Johnson wrote: JPEG is also an ISO standard, and open source implementations exist. But apparently it's not a fully free public standard? You have to pay the licensing fee for JPEG2000. JPEG 2000 has an option for 12 bit resolution which might be important to purists who are into perfect rendition of real film. DICOM, the open format for medical graphics is also available though it is intrinsically monochrome - like an X-ray. Color information can be included by making linked red, blue, and green files. The medical folks are slowly moving toward JPEG 2000. I should hope that they also care about images at least a lifetime old. And while I'm at it, RAW formats are uncompressed representations of pixel values. Specifying the format is little more than providing the bit-length of a pixel, (8, 12, 24, 32,. . .) and the number of pixels that are in one complete scan line. A file of that sort would be far easier to figure out, next century on Mars, than the discrete 16x16 two-dimensional cosine transforms of a JPEG. -- -- From the U S of A, the only socialist country that refuses to admit it. -- --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Where do I learn.... becomes archiving files and images- the future
HiYa Pete, thanks for the tip on the 'Black' Fuji media. My only 'techie' relative mentioned these to me over the weekend. He's been a mac disciple since the begining having bought like the third one sold here in Michigan way back when. He's a programmer, engineer, optics, physics, etc etc etc expert currently doing his interdisciplinary thing managing multiple projects at an aerospace company. He used some of these Discs to send pictures and videos to his daughter across the country, but during a visit carrying his shiny new MacBook Pro he discovered their 'blackness' tripped up his drive. He said it was a laser disperion problem - the discs read perfectly in his wife's older ibook and his daughters pc's but choked in his MacBook. As incredibly wonderful these UV and Light defending discs are, they might be a little to exotically engineered for my particular application. I also intend for these discs to be in light tight storage anyway and the benefits derived from the 'engineered sunscreen' the black fuji's aren't really needed. Has anyone heard of Taiyo Yuden the japanese cdr dvdr media manufacturer? I am bumping into postings, pages, and vendors, hailing their discs as being the definite first choice for burning with. The postings are religiously devoted and the ancedotes widely expressed by buyers and audiophiles and such emphatically describe clean, consistent, and accurate burned discs. They also describe consistently NOT burning coasters when using the taiyo yuden media. Richard On Jan 7, 3:27 pm, pdimage pdim...@btinternet.com wrote: On 6/1/09 16:35, Sam Macomber s...@macomber.com wrote: RAW format is all the information captured by the camera's sensor in an unaltered state(though sometimes lossless compression is used, depends on the camera). To generate a TIFF that sensor data has to be altered and when you do so information is lost. Raw data from the sensor is in the form of electron counts from each pixel of the array. Each pixel is further divided into cells - usually four - which are filtered to be sensitive to the red, green and blue areas of the visual spectrum - one red, two green and one blue in the vast majority of digi capture - though Kodak tried one red, one blue and six green in the early days http://www.epi-centre.com/reports/9306cs.html Conversion to tiff or any other format on import into an image editor will not affect the raw data unless the original is destroyed after conversion. Unfortunately sensor data is not the only form of image data called 'raw' - some proprietary systems use the term 'raw' very loosely for uncalibrated binary data - hence the compression. For archiving images I use the Fuji CD-R printable Inkjet Black UV Pro which is recommended for the purpose http://www.fujifilm.co.uk/recmedia/site/product/product.asp?pid=145 not easy to get hold of and not cheap but a pod of one hundred goes a very long way. Pete --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Where do I learn.... becomes archiving files and images- the future
Hello All! Original Poster Here. Looks like I've kicked up a diverse conversation here. I think I've gleaned a great deal of thoughts from what's been discussed and I'll check on the NIST info soon. I want to comment on the RAW image file discussions. It occurs to me that the proper way to think of a camera's RAW file is to consider it a 'piece of undeveloped film'. The conversion and manipulation of a RAW file into a TIFF or JPEG is incredibly analagous to the astonishing ways Film can be manipulated to change the outcome of it's development into a finished Slide or Negative. Let along the changes one can introduce when taking that slide or negative to the print stage. I personally would NEVER consider an Undeveloped Piece Of Film to be ARCHIVAL. Currently, I don't see how RAW in it's current technological status can be considered ARCHIVAL. There is to much proprietary, licensed, and secret(?) tied up in how Nikon, Canon, Hasselblad, etc have things structured. Maybe ADOBE can give DNG to the Library Of Congress as a repository of profiles and processes and such. How are all these zillions of important images be stored for posterity let alone people's family snapshots and memories??? Richard On Jan 6, 2:22 pm, Dan dantear...@gmail.com wrote: At 11:04 AM -0800 1/6/2009, Tom wrote: It's not preserving the still images that bothers me so much as the video---video of our little kids who have grown up or adults who are no longer with us. I can print out still images and preserve them in various ways, but there is no printing out video to save it; it's on disks or tape in order to exist at all. My video is shot on mini-DV, fed into my Mac through a firewire cable, edited in Final Cut, and burned to DVD. These edited videos have titles, captions, and brevity through cuts of unnecessary footage that make it watchable, unlike the raw tapes. And in the process of authoring the DVD-Video, they're also highly lossy compressed. So I just make many copies of my edited videos, burning them slowly (1X) in case that does it any better, distribute them widely among relatives, and then plan on continually copying them onto newer media as time goes by. When I'm gone, I would hope that anyone in the family who cares about these videos would continue such preservation efforts. Keep also the version *before* that final compression. That way, when future DVD formats come out, eg: Blu-Ray, you can re-author the disc with less or maybe even no compression. Just out of curiosity, how big are those pre-compression files? Are you doing this in 1080 or higher? - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Where do I learn about long lasting cdr's or dvdr's ????
Hello All, Thanks for your input! I wanted to 'expand' on how I'm handling this family photo archive project. :-) I AM COMMITTED TO DOING THE SCANNING AND ORGANIZING OF FILES O-N-C-E DOING IT R-I-G-H-T AND NOT HAVING TO REPEAT THE W-O-R-K FOR THESE PARTICULAR PHOTOGRAPHS! My work motto is ' Do it Right, Do it Right the First Time, And Not Do It Over! My Goal is to finish this project with a 'product' that is something a Photographer (like me) many years in the future will have the 'data' to do anything he wants to do with any particular image. Equally important, I want the 'data' to be a genealogical and historical treasure trove to whoever goes through the image files and associated 'data'. I'm not doing any 'genealogical' work per se, but am going to work to 'tag' the images with as much names, dates, and event info as I can glean for each image. A) The Original Photographs will NOT Be Discarded! Very little beats having the originals, but I am mostly left with cheap color prints from the 70's and 80's at this point and the underlying chemistry of how these were made defines them as NON-Archival. The HUGE quantities of black and whites (the Good Stuff) is either buried at the landfill or burned at the County Incinerator. Sigh. B) The Scans them selves will be at deep resolutions and a good bit depth. With nominal adjustments and editing to keep the image files 'true' and without forced color or contrast changes. This minimizes my workload and keeps from having 'image data' lost through the 'restoration' process. C) I'll be using TIFF file format because it turnes out that it is an industry norm for long term digital image storage. D) The Names and Date info for each image will be stored integral to the image file itself. This way each image stands on it's own as a seperate file and if 'say' half the files on a disc become unreadable, it has no material effect on retrieving all the info important to the other half of the files. E) I'll be practicing a defense in depth strategy for storing the files: --- Two copies of the data set will be disperesed to a geographically diverse group of relatives and in good numbers (My Dad is one of 10 kids!). --- The Dispered Copies will be One set of discs for 'use' and one will be for 'storage'. The 'Storage' set will hopefully be in a nice container that wil give a high likelyhood of the discs in their cases will stay vertical and be kept stress free. I'm shooting for a really elegant storage container - custom wood box ? - that shouts I'm important - Take Good Care Of Me! I'm leaning toward jpeg's on the 'for use' discs to maximize the convenience. Nothing firm on that front has been decided yet. --- My personal copies of the 'storage set' will be multiple and on diverse media including Optical and HD. F) I am 'Planning' to use a Scheduled Media RollOver Process to keep the data safe for many many years. I'm hoping to be doing the process every 5 yrs with media I can count on for 10yrs. Maybe it's something I'll do every year, every other year. Query! - As someone who has definitely experienced the loss of data in hd failure, optical disc failure/damage, floppy/zip failure, and video tape decay. I wonder how something as fragile as 'Tapes' can be advocated over high grade opticals for my application. A 'corporate' structure and funding can create a viability for corporate data storage on tapes, but it seems quite expensive and effort intensive to keep the tapes viable and quite actively replacing tapes over time. This isn't Liberty Mutual Insurance with billions on the line and the millions to support the project! It's just us - the ward family - and large segments of our family are barely middle class and none are rich financially :-). Myself, I'm coping with multiple illnesses and only made a few thousand dollars last year! :-) To Everybody, I'm doing this scan project because of how important Photographs and Images are to me. I am in my soul a very caring, creative, and intensely visual person who has bonded those qualities to the art and science of photography. I am doing this to Protect my Dad's Families visual heritage and to disperse it to family members spread from Michigan, to Kansas, to Florida, to California. Richard --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Where do I learn about long lasting cdr's or dvdr's ????
Original Poster Here: Query? - There are Ultra-High Grade Discs made with Gold (to resist corrosion), High Grade Plastics to resist scratches and etc, and with the use of 'higher' stability Dyes (?) all put together with high quality construction processes in their production. The prices are very high for these discs compared to the el-cheapo spindles on sale every week at the BigBox stores. eg: a hundred discs are 150 bucks versus 10 bucks. The 'Tested' theoretical life of these gold disks are 300yrs versus 100yrs for 'normal' High Grade disks. In my non-digital photo printing life there was an outfit doing printing paper and storage methods testing for expected life spans and such who's AUTHORITY and METHODS were exceptionally well regarded. Where is an organization like this for storage mediums. One (or more) has to exist but where do I find it? Query: Where is the 'glaring hole' in my data backup plan for these image files? My 'intended' burning methodologies are to burn very slowly (1x if possible) which in theory and personal experience gives very nice burns with excellent readability in multiple drives. Multiple data integrity tests using multiple drives to verify the burns contents is intended. These methods combined with numerous multiple copies of the entire data set seems like it would give a LOT of data security. With the 'Science' 'Experience' I have and know about - My intended use of 'Ultra-Grade' materials and 'Ultra-Careful' methods to create at least 10 pristine duplicate Disc Sets that will be stored 'as sets', in a durable container, with each disc in individual jewel cases, and a Case that promotes vertical storage, should be an Ass Kicking method to ensure that say 5yrs from now a 'Pristine' copy of this data set exists to be replicated onto whatever is the best method to use 5yrs from now. I would also provide to each 'set holder' a User Copy to use and abuse as they access and view the images. I personally DON'T see the hole in this plan. It will be time and labor intensive to implement this plan, but I have nothing but time on my hands and the 'labor' is labor I can do with my physical limitations. I am 100% - hands on - personally aware of the perils Data burned on Optical Media present. I'm currently dealing with a large cd binder of cd-r's that a roof leak gunked up in the family office. Some of these discs are surface ruined from previous rough handling, some are substrate damaged/corrossion, and some have the reflective layer flaking off the topside. I also note that -absent mildew/moisture- that the 5yr old Name Brand disks that were clean read perfectly. I'm thinking well made disc's that are well stored (some in safety deposit boxes - I hope) are going to be there for us to use for many many years. Richard On Jan 5, 3:45 pm, Dan dantear...@gmail.com wrote: At 1:31 PM -0700 1/5/2009, Doug McNutt wrote: As for optical disks the little pits are smaller for higher density DVDs than for CD-ROMs. I should be expected that smaller pits will be more subject to damage than bigger ones. But an important part of the safety is the material in which the pits are formed. and the quality improvements in the lasers - both the intensity (power levels) and frequencies used - which creates all sorts of backward compatibility issues. Now a question: Is anyone offering the performance of pressed CD-ROMS for a fee that would be reasonable for a dozen copies? Not for a dozen. Maybe for thousands. - Dan. -- - Psychoceramic Emeritus; South Jersey, USA, Earth --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Where do I learn.... becomes archiving files and images- the future
Hi Miko, I happen to personally 'like' your DNG suggestion and am a genuine devotee of RAW files and actively shoot and store them! However, the archive I am creating is NOT an archive for ME or being created for MY use. It's being created for two equally important 'future' relatives - Someone who is looking for pictures of relatives AND someone (like me) who wants great image files to do beautiful things with. The 'Image Archive Industry' relies on the 100% NON-Proprietary nature of TIFF so it's 'future' isn't tied to ANY corporation or group of corporations AND the nature of the file format itself is designed for storing lots of information in the headers (in my case an excellent parking space for my 'exif type info/names,dates,titles). Further benefits come from the fact Any Tiff file is openable many decades from now because even if it falls into total disuse 'generally' all it takes is a programmer to write a program to read the info and retrieve the image in the file. This is a seperate question from the current 'media' choice for storing the group of image files I'm grappling with. No matter how wonderful your raw/dng file suggestion is, it's trumped by the 'benefits' TIFF brings to my specific situation. In my own personal archive I see the incredible merits of DNG when it comes to my personal image making. Sorry Miko, The purpose of my project disqualifies your suggestion for reasons seperate to what makes dng raw so wonderful. I dearly hope that 5-10 years from now DNG has the status of TIFF. LONG LIVE ADOBE - LONG LIVE PHOTOSHOP! Richard On Jan 5, 6:22 pm, MIKO .. miko.supp...@gmail.com wrote: On Jan 5, 2009, at 2:42 PM, Sam Macomber wrote: At this point with newer systems they're generally all supported by Photoshop CameraRAW and can be converted to DNG. i feel that's reasonably safe since I'm seeling the useful life right around 10 years for an image, I don't see many calls for images older than that, even than with images more than 2-3 years old i only get a request maybe once a year ... I can see that for stock images, but for art images that develop some clout, a good print could be requested at any time. I'd love it if there was a 50 megapixel dng out there of Ansel Adams' Moonrise! or Half Dome --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Where do I learn about long lasting cdr's or dvdr's ????
Hello, I'm setting up to archive family photo's for posterity but am getting conflicting info on Media Choices and on going between CDR or DVDR. I'm also not quite sure where to look for scientifically valid evaluations and reccomendations. My google searches and readings seem to be a mix of single source data sets (ie: personal experience!), press releases, 'flame wars', and esoteric descriptions of theories, methodologies, and technologies. I HAD been sold on using very high grade Media made with Gold for it's supposed 'Archival' nature and with CD because they were engineered (supposedly) for extravagent fault tolerance and ability to retrieve 'all' of one's data while DVD's were (supposedly) engineered so error's and missing data have minimal impact on the playing of video. ie: with frames a-b-c-d playing and frame c's data is missing the video stream calmly marches on the frame d. (Simplistic descripions I know, but I think fairly accurate). I'm quite lost and am looking for a 'good' reference source! I am not looking for '10' year durability, just serious confidence in making it 10-15years before revisiting this data for a 'media' or technology roll over. Richard --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: I am thinking about a processor upgrade for my G4/400 AGP
HiYa RiverMan, There is a big 'IF' in my reccomendation, but I see the cheapest and most straight forward speed bump you can achieve is by sliding an Intel Mini in the place of your Tower. When I compare the 'benchmark' numbers in the MacTracker App between a 400mhz g4 agp to a late model Mini it goes from a 221 score to a 2300 score. That is a 10 fold increase. The big 'IF' is whether you can live without the PCI slots, Native OS9, and internal drive expansion and the like. A mini can be had for a lot less than tricking out a G4/400/agp. There is also no rule saying you have to throw away the G4 tower after getting your mini - peaceful coexistence really can happen! In my personal opinion, when faced with jumping upwards from an early G4 tower, there are multiple good reasons to pick a Mini and multiple reasons to not pick a mini - the answer for 'YOU' depends on what variables are important in your computing world and what budget you're working with. It's also hard to call a 10x power increase for 600ish bucks a mistake. At worst I personally would call it a relatively inexpensive technological placeholder to buy the power and see if it will work before dropping a ton of bucks on a current or late model Mac Tower. Richard On Jan 4, 4:31 pm, RiverMan scarumcr...@gmail.com wrote: Has anyone tried the upgrade from XLR8 or Newer Tech? I read about a 1.6 Ghz and a 2.0 Ghz upgrade for my G4 but would love to hear from people who have tried it. Or should I just save my cash and get a newer model? Thanks! -=] RiverMan [=- --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to g3-5-list-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Help! I Wanna Crack A Lacie FW CDRW Case
Hi All, I posted some helpful images on my NEW Flickr Account http://www.flickr.com/photos/zeissfan/ will get you to them. Since the case is nothing but silvers and greys, I posted BW images to skimp on file size and maximize detail. Please help folks Richard On Nov 7, 11:50 am, aussieshepsrock [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'll try to get something on flikr. I've never used it, but it's another skill that would be handy to have. Richard On Nov 7, 10:50 am, Bruce Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED] --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Input requested re: a $10 G3 Powerbook
Hi All, I currently have zero cash assetts to make any acquisitions or I'd have already been out in the market. I might have some things coming to hand which will let me spend a few bucks on this powerbook. Further Info on the Powerbook: The Name Plate Says - 14.1 TFT / 300mhz - 1mb/64mb/8gb HD/4mb video/dvd/modem When I purchased the unit there was literally a stack of them, all with no HD's or AC Adapters, and the keyboards were flopping around. I picked the one with the most 'labeled' MHZ, a confirmed DVD module, and no missing keys. I also tested it by using their ac adapter and getting a 'happy mac' with the expected blinking ? mark along with a pretty screen and no observed screen defects. I own a compatible ac adapter but I can't find the [EMAIL PROTECTED] thing and am having to buy one. I also have a 2.5gig IBM MicroDrive that I knew from previous research can be swapped for an internal notebook drive fairly inexpensively and many powerbooks can boot from the pc card slot. After getting it home and carefully looking around under the keyboard I discovered the HD sled is missing along with the plugin cable/ adapter for the HD. I also strongly suspect it has 128mb or more of ram, but I didn't want to go popping the ram simm out of plain curiosity when I know it boots to the happy mac OK at this point. OS9 and myself don't need a bunch of ram for what I want this powerbook to do. I also figured out the really easy way to latch and unlatch the keyboard, too! I tried to buy another powerbook a couple days later to get another battery, but they'd sold them all by then. Oh well. Total Portability isn't a requirement for me, just a really nice upgrade. If this battery works at all, I'll be happy - further the microdrives are pretty easy on batteries. My EOS 20D has a decent battery life using one so I am quite hopeful in that regard. I can't recall which version of G3 Powerbook this is. It's been sitting on the shelf for months after discovering my ac adapter is MIA. Tweaked my dang back trying to find the thing too. Ouch. It is most definitely NOT a Pismo if that's the version with firewire - this is a SCSI Machine. The copyright date is 1998 if that is at all illuminatory! I'm going to google it and see if the serial number or something might pay off. Richard On Nov 6, 12:02 pm, R. A. Cantrell [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Pismo has firewire, the others don't. On Thu, Nov 6, 2008 at 10:30 AM, Larry Stotler [EMAIL PROTECTED]wrote: On Nov 5, 6:17 pm, aussieshepsrock [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I picked up a G3 Powerbook at my local computer recycler for 10 bucks last sping and I have some questions about whether my plans for it are reasonable. It boots to the blinking question mark just fine and the screen looks great but it came with no HD (or HD mounting hardware it appears) and no AC adapter. I tested it at the store with an adapter they drug out of their repair shop's equipment set. The PB has at least 64mb of ram, a dvd drive module, but no dvd mpeg decoder card. Which one is it? Wallstreet, Lombard or Pismo? IIRC, the lombard and Pismo don't need the dvd decoder depending on which model you had. The 400Mhz Lombard didn't need it I think. My Plan - strictly in pencil at this point!: Use it for Word Processing with my cross 9/osx version of Appleworks. Play Time Wasting OS9 games like Solitaire, Cribbage, and the like which I have floating around. Use it as a REALLY BIG LCD Picture Frame and mobile photo viewer. Potentially watch my avi/divx files or even get the mpeg card to watch 'real' dvd's. May not need the card. Good luck. -- All the best, R.A. Cantrell --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Help! I Wanna Crack A Lacie FW CDRW Case
This is pretty straight forward. I have a Lacie FireWire CDRW Case I'd like to Open Up, but I can't figure out how to do it without breaking parts or pieces of the housing. Shattering Shards Sliding through the Ether isn't something I'm neccessarily opposed to, but if I can avoid that I'd be happier in the end. If I can provide some specs or send pix can someone give me some guidance? It is a very simple shape and design with no Industrial Design flourishes beyond some touches of crome and a nice paintjob. It appears to 'just' be a flat metal box with plastic plates on each end, but the ends are very firmly attached and have stood up to some fairly strong leverage to this point. My hope is to either slip my DVD burner or an HD into it so I can STOP playing musical chairs with my generic FireWire CD/HD external case. Thanks - Richard --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Help! I Wanna Crack A Lacie FW CDRW Case
Update: The Case appears to be 100% plastic upon taking another look at it. Someone just advised to 'check under the feet' and that didn't bear fruit. My assessment -revised- is that the case is constructed of a 5 sided box with openings at front and rear for firewire jacks and the drive door area respectively. The bottom plate looks to be a snap in affair at the ends, but the side seams are damn near perfect and I wonder if they're glued in. I mis-remembered it being a metal box. Dang thing annoys me. To tell the truth, seeing flying shards would be pretty satisfying! Richard On Nov 6, 5:54 pm, aussieshepsrock [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: This is pretty straight forward. I have a Lacie FireWire CDRW Case I'd like to Open Up, but I can't figure out how to do it without breaking parts or pieces of the housing. Shattering Shards Sliding through the Ether isn't something I'm neccessarily opposed to, but if I can avoid that I'd be happier in the end. If I can provide some specs or send pix can someone give me some guidance? It is a very simple shape and design with no Industrial Design flourishes beyond some touches of crome and a nice paintjob. It appears to 'just' be a flat metal box with plastic plates on each end, but the ends are very firmly attached and have stood up to some fairly strong leverage to this point. My hope is to either slip my DVD burner or an HD into it so I can STOP playing musical chairs with my generic FireWire CD/HD external case. Thanks - Richard --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Help! I Wanna Crack A Lacie FW CDRW Case
Since mine is an optical drive, mischievious x-rays aren't much of a concern for me. Also Dennis is probably accurate in his observation, Metal drive housings would be pretty handy in most instances to fend off xrays. I think my best option is someone who has either done it before or can point me to a blue print or some sort of exploded diagram showing what the heck pieces I'm dealing with. I'm serious about describing how durable the plastic this case is made out of are. I pryed the back plate out to about an inch and ended up with a 'bend' in it of less than 1/8th of an inch. Sigh. I also can't get a sturdy enough blade into the incredibly well 'glued' seams along the bottom. 'It's One Tough Truck' Richard On Nov 6, 7:27 pm, Dennis Myhand [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: insightinmind wrote: Know anyone in the medical profession that could x-ray it for you? might ruin the disk/data inside ... Bill Connelly X-rays should not have an adverse effect on a hard drive. It is metal which will block the X-rays and shield the interior of the drive. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Help! I Wanna Crack A Lacie FW CDRW Case
Hi Ernest... It has no 'manufacturers data plate' as one might expect one to look like. There is a tiny sticker over the firewire ports ...very tiny... with a number string on it, but I have no idea whether it's a serial number or not. That number is: 890311121069C514 and there really is an empty space between the C and 514. It's a nice looking unit and has been problem free as a cd burner in the couple of years I've owned it. It would be much nicer to use it as a case for my dvd burner or as a HD case. Richard On Nov 6, 8:04 pm, Ernest L. Gunerius [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Update: The Case appears to be 100% plastic upon taking another look at it. Someone just advised to 'check under the feet' and that didn't bear fruit. My assessment -revised- is that the case is constructed of a 5 sided box with openings at front and rear for firewire jacks and the drive door area respectively. The bottom plate looks to be a snap in affair at the ends, but the side seams are damn near perfect and I wonder if they're glued in. I mis-remembered it being a metal box. Dang thing annoys me. To tell the truth, seeing flying shards would be pretty satisfying! Richard On Nov 6, 5:54 pm, aussieshepsrock [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: This is pretty straight forward. I have a Lacie FireWire CDRW Case I'd like to Open Up, but I can't figure out how to do it without breaking parts or pieces of the housing. Shattering Shards Sliding through the Ether isn't something I'm neccessarily opposed to, but if I can avoid Richard; What is the Model Number so we can get a look at it. ErnieG --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
VueScan Question
Hi All, kind of a random question and I didn't see a straight forward way to ask it at Hamrick Software's website so I brought the question here. I have a Umax Powerlook 1100 scanner with Transparency Adapter and the assorted film holders. I have moved on to a pretty nice epson, but the 1100's scan bed is really big and I'd like to find a way to use it. Vuescan will run my 1100 fine in OSX, but I can only scan aprox. 8.5x11 of the much larger scan bed the 1100 has. (aprox 10x15in or so). Does anyone have any thoughts on solutions for me? If I can find a way to use all that space, I'll keep the scanner, but otherwise it has to go in a sale or swap of some kind. Richard --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Personal Data Removal Methodology Questions
HiYa Group, I want to know if how I've gone about removing files from my drives is Theoretically Sound. After reading the new thread regarding the new version of CCC being out I think I might have a assumed to much about how the process I was using went about it's job. Let me outline how I did what I did and if there is a hole in my process that I don't know about. I made personal commitments I want to live up to. :-) I also don't like being stupid either! LOL I'm on a G4 Mini, 10.4.11, 1gig, 40gig, 320gig external, external dvd burner, Super Duper 'Clone' of the 40gig onto an external drive that is kept unplugged from everthing including power except when it's in use. I want to know whether when I made my 'copy everything' dupe of the internal drive using SuperDuper, were the files and folders containing 'identity rich' info I had previously 'trashed' copied as well. My assumption that since only 'existing' files were involved in creating an SD clone, I didn't have to worry about deleted information getting backed up as well. NOTE: I didn't 'secure empty' the trash because I was planning an upcoming nuke and pave. I eventually nuked and paved my internal drive after my cloning of it in order to see if I could speed it up a bit. I'd been running it almost full for a bit and I wanted to clean out my data and do a poor man's defrag as well. One of the authors in the other thread noted an issue where a dupe can contain all the registry and file errors and 'frag' problems as before because it's doing a 'sector by sector' process (I'm paraphrasing). The question popped in my head - is data that was deleted a part of this byte for bye duping process? Is my 'deleted' data sitting out on the backup drive and I didn't know I put it there? I know my risks are infinitessimal here, but I'm very curious now about how 'superduper' is doing it's job. Thanks Everyone. Richard --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: File Managent Woes
Hi All, Original Poster Here - I wanted to update folks a little on the progress of Sorting out my 'File Management Woes'. I've mostly finished my imports into Adobe Lightroom and it adds up to about 6,700 images :-). Whew. I've also weeded out most of my 'File Dupes' in the process. Things are much more spacious on my HD's to the tune of about 30% on the External and 50% available on the Internal one. Thanks All Richard On Oct 15, 4:33 pm, aussieshepsrock [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks to Everyone! You're input is very welcome and I'm sincerely grateful :-). I wanted to update what I've done since putting up my original posting. My Original Challenges are Prolific File Duplicates and Setting Up A Filing System (Mainly to ride herd on my photos). Equipment recap: G4 Mini/1g/1.25mhz/40g • 320gig My Book External / 40g 250g partitions • 120gig External (Offline Backup of the Mini ) • External DVD Burner The first 'baseline' decision was to commit to Adobe Lightroom. My second decision was to 'Brute Force' my way through finding 'Duplicates'. I have an inordinate amount of time to fill up anyway. The third was to use the 40gig partition exclusively for Photo Files. I did a fresh clone of the internal drive, copied -essentially- all non-application non-system files to the 250gig partition, and punted large swaths of those files to the trash. I freed up almost half the drive! :-) I copied the 40gig partition's contents to the 250 - After moving my beloved 'Busters 'Bones -n- 'CSI's to Opticals (where they actually ought to have been). I am now in the process of comparing Folders on the 250 using the Find command (set to search only the 250) and trashing the dupes I find (I compare file counts and total folder megabytes to make sure things match). I've tossed about 40gig's of dupes at this point. Once I've narrowed my Dupes via this method, I'll turn to Lightroom to import what's left and weed out the duplicate image files that way. I have lightroom set to 'copy' the originals to organized folders on my 40gig partition. I'll then use that program to weed out the crappy images and screw-ups, bring an order to the library by making collections and sub collections of images, Archive the keepers, then clear out space on the 250. I have a 40gig drive floating around I can use to backup the 40gig partition of the 320 My Book External onto. SuperDuper to the rescue :-). OH! I do know the difference between an archive and backup - I was only keeping 'partial backups' because I didn't know for sure what was archived or even what pictures were on the backups with total certainty. My goal is to have some certainty in my archiving and organization to 'KNOW' my next 'Clone' isn't going to write over a one of a kind file or photo. Anyway, I have hacked together a 'start' to my organizational process. I don't have a 'global' plan for archiving and organization set yet, but I'm thinking hard on it. Richard On Oct 14, 8:16 pm, Bruce Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Oct 14, 2008, at 1:49 PM, Dan wrote: Every year or two I poke aruond at file managers, thinking I really should use one. And each time I talk myself out of it. They just don't do what I need/want. And it's not just images. I have the same problem with my music. I don't trust iTunes one bit. Whereas for the 3,456 folders named 'Stuff' organization-impaired among us, iTunes and the like are godsends. They keep stuff findable with out all the hassle of doing it myself. -- Bruce Johnson University of Arizona College of Pharmacy Information Technology Group Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Scanner software works in 10.3 but not 10.4--how come?
HiYa Tom, This may be a stupid question, but upon scanning through this thread a very straight forward solution is jumping out at me. That solution is to operate in 10.3 to use this scanner. The 'stupid' question is whether that overlooks anything seriously important to the functionality or 'safety' of Tom's hardware. I know for a fact that to choose the SCSI Scanner Tom has decided upon to undertake his Slide Scanning with means he took the Much LESS Expensive route for accomplishing it. He was able to do so because he has a SCSI capable computer. If the march of time in the OS world left the Minolta Software behind, I am of the opinion that he should go Oh Well and continue to use 10.3 until his scanning is done. If it's necessary to keep both 10.3 and 10.4 OS's around, it's a small inconvenience to live with -Unless- there are technical obstacles to that. Personally, I'm of the mind that if 10.4 is a requirement for Tom to be in or primarily use, get another quicksilver or a more upscale machine and dedicate one to his Film Scanning. It might also speed up his scanning a lot because he can fiddle away on one Mac while the other fiddles away on his scanning. Please Enlighten Me on any 'holes' in my thoughts on Tom's obstacles here. Knowlege is a wonderful thing. Richard On Oct 14, 10:52 pm, Tom [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I have a Quicksilver 1GHz DP running 10.4.11, with a SCSI card (Adaptec 2930) in it to run a big old SCSI Minolta film scanner (Dimage Scan Multi II). The scanner came with its proprietary Minolta software (Dimage Scan Utility), which works very well, but it only works in in 10.3.9. So, to use the scanner, I have to reboot back into 10.3.9 (which is on an external hard drive), do the scans in 10.3, and then reboot into 10.4 again to use them. This is OK, but slow and kind of a nuisance. I sure wish I could scan film in 10.4.11. There are no updates on the Minolta website beyond what I have, which is 2004 software. Anybody got any idea why this software will work in 10.3, but not in 10.4, and how I might get it to work in 10.4? Thanks for any help! Tom --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: File Managent Woes
Thanks to Everyone! You're input is very welcome and I'm sincerely grateful :-). I wanted to update what I've done since putting up my original posting. My Original Challenges are Prolific File Duplicates and Setting Up A Filing System (Mainly to ride herd on my photos). Equipment recap: G4 Mini/1g/1.25mhz/40g • 320gig My Book External / 40g 250g partitions • 120gig External (Offline Backup of the Mini ) • External DVD Burner The first 'baseline' decision was to commit to Adobe Lightroom. My second decision was to 'Brute Force' my way through finding 'Duplicates'. I have an inordinate amount of time to fill up anyway. The third was to use the 40gig partition exclusively for Photo Files. I did a fresh clone of the internal drive, copied -essentially- all non-application non-system files to the 250gig partition, and punted large swaths of those files to the trash. I freed up almost half the drive! :-) I copied the 40gig partition's contents to the 250 - After moving my beloved 'Busters 'Bones -n- 'CSI's to Opticals (where they actually ought to have been). I am now in the process of comparing Folders on the 250 using the Find command (set to search only the 250) and trashing the dupes I find (I compare file counts and total folder megabytes to make sure things match). I've tossed about 40gig's of dupes at this point. Once I've narrowed my Dupes via this method, I'll turn to Lightroom to import what's left and weed out the duplicate image files that way. I have lightroom set to 'copy' the originals to organized folders on my 40gig partition. I'll then use that program to weed out the crappy images and screw-ups, bring an order to the library by making collections and sub collections of images, Archive the keepers, then clear out space on the 250. I have a 40gig drive floating around I can use to backup the 40gig partition of the 320 My Book External onto. SuperDuper to the rescue :-). OH! I do know the difference between an archive and backup - I was only keeping 'partial backups' because I didn't know for sure what was archived or even what pictures were on the backups with total certainty. My goal is to have some certainty in my archiving and organization to 'KNOW' my next 'Clone' isn't going to write over a one of a kind file or photo. Anyway, I have hacked together a 'start' to my organizational process. I don't have a 'global' plan for archiving and organization set yet, but I'm thinking hard on it. Richard On Oct 14, 8:16 pm, Bruce Johnson [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Oct 14, 2008, at 1:49 PM, Dan wrote: Every year or two I poke aruond at file managers, thinking I really should use one. And each time I talk myself out of it. They just don't do what I need/want. And it's not just images. I have the same problem with my music. I don't trust iTunes one bit. Whereas for the 3,456 folders named 'Stuff' organization-impaired among us, iTunes and the like are godsends. They keep stuff findable with out all the hassle of doing it myself. -- Bruce Johnson University of Arizona College of Pharmacy Information Technology Group Institutions do not have opinions, merely customs --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
File Managent Woes
Hello All, I have a pair of file management challenges and they are feeding upon one another. I have a G4 Mini 1g/40g/1.25ghz running 10.4.11 with a 320gig External for File Storage. In addition I have a 120gig external drive that's used for Dup'ing the Mini's Drive on one half and my Father's iBook on the other. The 120gig is kept strictly disconnected from everything including power sources for data safety. My Problems: a) I have prolific quantities of Image files that semi-regularly come into my computer due to my Photographic Endeavors (It's a hobby, but it isn't - if that makes sense). b) While I live within Filing Systems with utter joy, setting them up is outside my native skill set and I have global structure that the import or disposition of my image files goes into that rides herd on the collection as a whole. ie:the images go to optical, but not within a structure c) I fear cloning over the Backup's I make using SuperDuper for fear of losing files I have no memory of and now sections from previous backups are clogging up my drives. My Challenge is to seperate the wheat from the chaff and harvest my disk space back to me so I have some flexibility to generate a filing system. Can someone make any reccomendations on Dupe Finding Software? I've heard it exists. and Can Someone point me to some resources to guide my setting up a structure for my image files? Maybe my questions are to difuse, but I am locked into the hardware I have with no forseeable ability to buy a faster cpu or any drives. What I've got is what I've got. period. I've used Adobe Lightroom to process specific shoots quite successfully, but within the constraints of my Hardware, I don't think I can implement it successfully to manage my entire photo collection. Not enough CPU to make it work, I think. I have no faith that iPhoto will work for me because all of my experiences with it have been negative. I have no sense of confidence as to where my files are and the editing system is screamingly frustrating to a long time photoshop user. I 'park' images in iPhoto to make them accessible to 'play' with iDVD, but both acts are pretty inconsequential because rendering even slideshow dvd's is truly a horrendous timeconsuming endeavor with a G4. Thanks All for muddling through this long post. Feel Free to Email Me As well. Richard --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Need Help - Don't know where to get it!
Richard: I was able to get on with an updated weblink: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/index.php Hope this helps, Dana The page won't load using anyone's links in their replies. ?!?!?!?!?! Confusion still rules the roost here :-)! LOL I'm going to fish up my dis-used copy of safari and give it a whirl. My only thought is it's a Firefox issue of some sort. I'll update on my results Thanks All, Richard --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
Re: Need Help - Don't know where to get it!
;-) Yep, my Australian Shepard (Chopper by name) does herd me now and again. I'm STILL not able to load Canon POTN with Safari nor Firefox. I'm of the mind that if the site had 'blocked' me, I wouldn't be receiving emails from them and I would have been notified somehow. It's also a very 'tame' kind of site people. It's a straight up Canon Camera User group kind of thing with the only difference from this group essentially being the inclusion of lots of Pictures that people post. I'm confused, a lot. I can't even figure out to email the site to see if I'm blocked somehow. Can anyone get me an email address of an admin at the site? Thanks Richard On Oct 6, 3:17 pm, insightinmind [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: On Oct 6, 2008, at 3:10 PM, aussieshepsrock wrote: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/index.php It opens for me in both Firefox and Safari. Maybe your ISP is being blocked somehow from accessing the ISP that Serves the photo site? Have you been a bad boy (or girl)? Maybe your aussieshep has been a rockin' and playing with your computer? They're known for mischief-making ... (and I love the way they herd people, too) ... --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You received this message because you are subscribed Low End Mac's G3-5 List, a group for those using G3, G4, and G5 desktop Macs - with a particular focus on Power Macs. The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/lists/g-list.shtml and our netiquette guide is at http://www.lowendmac.com/lists/netiquette.shtml To post to this group, send email to g3-5-list@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/g3-5-list?hl=en Low End Mac RSS feed at feed://lowendmac.com/feed.xml -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
