On the way home from picking up daughter from escuela today, a woman in
a newish Toyota blew through a red light on the freeway feeder road. A
couple cars in front of me were proceeding through the intersection on
the green, it changed in sequence so we were all moving along. The
first car
Yeah, funny how moving things work --
I nearly got to be #4 in a chain reaction crash in Columbus, OH this
summer -- was blasting along in the left lane and suddenly saw a cloud
of blue/black smoke ahead and tromped on the brakes -- no way a cloud
of smoke on a crowded interstate inside a
I just went out to start my 1981 300sd and the battery was stone cold dead. It
started fine two days ago. I put a charger on and walked out 15 minutes ago and
red battery indicator light is on. It stays on with key in the off or on
position. In addition the glow light did not come on when I
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If you separate the braking and steering into two separate actions
you can get more braking and more steering without using the anti-
lock brakes. Just quickly ease onto the brakes until the tires start
to give an audible warning that they are
Move south, its warmer there.
Red Batt light indicates a faulty charging system, probably a voltage
regulator. You say the car hasn't been started yet, so LT's 1 2 don't
apply, I'd guess you have a voltage leak through the voltage regulator.
Glow system is voltage dependent - if the car won't
I disagree -- I had my car definitely NOT start after having the lose belt,
because the battery didn't have enough juice in it.
On 12/5/06, Michael Hall [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Move south, its warmer there.
Red Batt light indicates a faulty charging system, probably a voltage
regulator. You
Ya, we had an mbca director out to our section to teach a defensive
driving course. They said good tires are really good at either braking
or turning, but less effective doing both at the same time. In an
emergency
brake then steer, or steer then brake. Standing on the brake is easy but
what
Update:
Got the car started and the light goes out while it is running. I haven't
checked to see if it charging. It is just too damn cold out there.
Now the light stays on while the key is on the off position and goes out
when key is the ready to start position.
I have never seen the light
This light is on, the car is not. Can't be a loose belt.
Mike
On 12/5/06, LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I disagree -- I had my car definitely NOT start after having the lose
belt,
because the battery didn't have enough juice in it.
On 12/5/06, Michael Hall [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Move
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MB_W0QQitemZ230061910185QQihZ013QQcategoryZ33675QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
From [EMAIL PROTECTED] Wed Dec 06 02:01:10 2006
Received: from wx-out-0506.google.com ([66.249.82.234])
by server8.arterytc8.net with esmtp (Exim 4.52) id 1Grm5u-0006YJ-2S
for
Tyler Backman wrote:
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If you separate the braking and steering into two separate actions
you can get more braking and more steering without using the anti-
lock brakes.
I disagree. If you were correct, racers would never brake into
or
I find myself checking the rear view mirror during rapid stops under
the assumption that my Benz will stop shorter than most vehicles, and
I don't want to get rear-ended, if there's space.
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all
I said 2 yesterday, but I really have 3, as well as a spare 2.5 turbo
engine. Silly me.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
(2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, (2x) 84 190D 2.2,
81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net
That would be correct I would think. Im not sure if there is a
difference between the older inline engines and newer. In other words,
not sure if it can be used in either style depending on which side of
the engine the starter is on.
Zeitgeist wrote:
Isn't the 5th gear in that tranny a 1:1
that would be nice.
Michael Hall wrote:
We have an 87 300D we put the 5 speed from an 87 300E into to. Works great
so far.
Mike
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
(2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, (2x) 84 190D 2.2,
81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72
I will have to see, I have not unwrapped it yet.
tom savage wrote:
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
yea, it works. I will find out more about it to see what it fits
What is the six-digit number? (ie, 717.400) The epc knows all OE
installations.
Tom
___
OK, so drove my new 91 2.5 turbo today and its squirly on the highway.
I do remember when I used to own this car it was that way but not as
bad. What all should I be replacing? Seems marshall has said this is
caused by the rear links? True? Do the links themselves need to be
replaced,
you have a bad alternator.
MICHAEL ESH wrote:
I just went out to start my 1981 300sd and the battery was stone cold dead. It
started fine two days ago. I put a charger on and walked out 15 minutes ago and
red battery indicator light is on. It stays on with key in the off or on
position.
As I said, your alternator is shot.
MICHAEL ESH wrote:
Update:
Got the car started and the light goes out while it is running. I haven't
checked to see if it charging. It is just too damn cold out there.
Now the light stays on while the key is on the off position and goes out
when key is
I'm an adult and I can meet anytime of the day...it's called retirement!
On 12/5/06, Mike Canfield [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Pardon me Sunil, I came across pretty harsh on that last post...I
apologize.
Mike
- Original Message -
From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes
I thought you were selling that car?
OK Don wrote:
My '87 300SDL started down to 0F last several winters with no effort
at all. I did count to ten after the glow light went out (can't hear
the relay) - it started like it was July. I'm sure the Mobil 1 helped.
--
Kaleb C.
Well I for one am glad the price has finally come down on those!
I hope they're not Katrina damaged!
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
I think some people didn't read the post properly.my car started at -9C
with FOUR dead glow plugs!
That was my point.
Also, since tightening up the #1 injector, that bit of white smoke on
start-up is gone and smoke at night seems to be reduced! Every time I take
the injector lines off the
Bushings only come in the linksnot big dollars but a pain to replace. Do
the subframe stuff while you're there.
BTDT
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
Ok. I shall disregard my military specialty in electronics. I am sure you
guys are correct.
On 12/5/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
As I said, your alternator is shot.
MICHAEL ESH wrote:
Update:
Got the car started and the light goes out while it is running. I
haven't
oh yea, I read it.
Jeff Zedic wrote:
I think some people didn't read the post properly.my car started at -9C
with FOUR dead glow plugs!
That was my point.
Also, since tightening up the #1 injector, that bit of white smoke on
start-up is gone and smoke at night seems to be reduced! Every
pain to replace? What all is involved?
Jeff Zedic wrote:
Bushings only come in the linksnot big dollars but a pain to replace. Do
the subframe stuff while you're there.
BTDT
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official
huh?
LT Don wrote:
Ok. I shall disregard my military specialty in electronics. I am sure you
guys are correct.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
(2x) 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL,
87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, (2x) 84 190D 2.2,
81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
You're best off doing all the links whilst there but I just feel that doing
the subframe bushings with the threaded rod Rube Goldberg thing is
tough..actually, seating them back in is tough.
I passed it off to a pro.
Got a good deal to let them do it all.
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
1975 to retirement in 1995, my military specialty/job was in electronics /
elec engineering / computers.
Therefore ipso facto I am clueless as to how electrons are made and what
makes them stop. I think that is called sarcasm, Kleb.
In other words, I'd still first look for a slipping belt
Grand plan in theory, but when you are trying to avoid 1) a concrete
wall to the left 2) a car shedding parts and bashing into other cars in
front and 3) traffic going 50 mph faster than you on the right, I'll
settle for antilock brakes and standing HARD on the pedal. I'm not a
race car
Rear links, bushing on the spring links, and subframe mounts in the
back -- any or all will cause wheel deflections that cause rear
steer, decidedly unpleasant. Bushings are intergral to the links
(vulcanized in place) and provide part of the spring for the rear
suspension. I've seen some
OK, so drove my new 91 2.5 turbo today and its squirly on the
highway.
Can you tell if the squirrels live in the front or the rear?
I've been told that you can kind of tell, especially with experience.
Also could have loose front pieces, like tie rods, steering idler,
steering shock.
-- Jim
Let's assume your tires can handle 1G in either cornering or braking.
You can brake at 1G, corner at 1G, or do both at once at the
square root of 1/2 or 0.7G in each direction.
It's the same patch of rubber pushing on the road, I'd say that
the maximum length of the force vector is 1G no matter
The alternator light is the indicator in a voltage balance circuit --
it says there is current flowing through the alternator winding, not
balanced by output. The circuit is usually not directional, so
current flow from the battery to the alternator will cause it to come
on (not chargine),
I said 2 yesterday, but I really have 3, as well as a spare 2.5 turbo
engine. Silly me.
Tease, tease, TEASE!
Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon
1983 300SD 284K miles, Ursula
Now the light stays on while the key is on the off position and goes
out
when key is the ready to start position.
It can't be the alternator, I'd say either the key switch
is shot (the electrical portion), or there's something
coupling battery power back into the ignition that oughtn't!
Jack and support, with suspension hanging free. Unbolt links (three
are easy, the tie rods are a big PITA), install new bolts from the 210
chassis with fitting sleeves (new bolts are thinner), jack suspension
level, tighten bolts -- the links must be free when you jack the
suspension up, the
Yup - we can't match that, but did feel the need to share our own
experiences ---
On 12/5/06, Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I think some people didn't read the post properly.my car started at -9C
with FOUR dead glow plugs!
That was my point.
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The
Wife vetoed that idea ---
On 12/5/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I thought you were selling that car?
OK Don wrote:
My '87 300SDL started down to 0F last several winters with no effort
at all. I did count to ten after the glow light went out (can't hear
the relay) - it
A bad alternator can charge OK, but burn up belts -- the one on my old
220 was so corroded that the rotor was knocking on the stator ring!
Ate belts like crazy, and finally lost enough diodes the battery
wouldn't stay charged if I drove at night.
Peter
I think Hans or someone else wrote up the process for the rear
subframe mount replacement a while back. I seem to remember wood
blocks and the weight of the car to push the new ones in.
Subframe bushings require dropping the subframe one side at a time and
making a tool to pull the old mounts
Thanks!
On 12/5/06, LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Ok. I shall disregard my military specialty in electronics. I am sure you
guys are correct.
--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives.
Sir Winston Churchill
'90
I think you missed the part about the light being on while the
ignition was turned off.
On 12/5/06, LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
1975 to retirement in 1995, my military specialty/job was in electronics /
elec engineering / computers.
Therefore ipso facto I am clueless as to how electrons
Reminds me of old Chinese proverb:
In order to know good, one must experience bad
Bill
1981 300 TD
I recall my Bus to be 80 hp and a four speed shift counting reverse
Tyler Backman wrote:
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I think they should learn to drive on an VW Bus
OK, I think that everyone has missed the obvious first place to look when
there is a suspicion that something is wrong at the alternator end - and
that is the regulator/brush assembly. Unless the bearings on the alternator
are shot, rarely is there something wrong with the alternator that a
LarryT wrote:
I can only imagine the uproar that would results if the fees to get a
drivers license were raised to $1500 -$2000! For one thing the number of
teen drivers would be dramaticaly cut as would the number of high school
students filling the parking lots of the local schools!
Shorted windings won't be fixed by a regulator replacement -- my
alternator light got brighter as the engine speeded up, not dimmer --
new alternator. I'd replaced the regulator a couple of years prior.
Peter
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Most people who racers on pavement do complete all of their braking
before entering a turn. They accelerate out of the corner after the
apex, when they are no longer using all of their traction to corner.
Some people do late or early apexing so
Depends on which side the starter motor is, the M102 and 103 have the
starter on the opposite side to Diesel motors.
My 85 201 has a MB 5 speed box while a 81 230TE I bought and dismantled some
time ago had a Getrag 5 speed in it.
Also of note the box in my 201 has a 124 part number on it, so
Thinking about it, if a main alt. diode was shorted battery voltage
could be coupled to the windings, and thence to the B output
where the light goes. And if there's enough draw off of the
other end of the light, such as the rest of the car's electronics,
it could result in the light going on
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The anti-lock brake system works off ABS wheel speed sensors. When
the ABS sensor detects that a wheel is rotating slower than the rest
of the vehicle because it is locked, it reduces brake pressure until
the wheel is rotating again, and then
Right so I run into town this evening to take some video's back and
because of the temp difference there is ground fog and visibility is
not great on the straight country road at 40 mph, what's that? Stand
on brakes as Bambi and his brothers decide which way to run.
Rubber shear, ya clouds of
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Absolutely, avoiding a potential accident is no time to try new
driving techniques. This only works if you have the time and safe
place to practice the technique over and over until you do it
correctly and automatically in an emergency
Are those 4 stripper pistons?
On 12/5/06, Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Well I for one am glad the price has finally come down on those!
I hope they're not Katrina damaged!
Jeff Zedic
Toronto
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official
You missed the part where the engine and ignition were off, and the light
was on. Thats why your diagnosis was off. I doubt a loose belt will cause
the battery light to come on when the car isn't running.
Quit taking everything as a personal attack and read the post.
Mike
On 12/5/06, LT Don
LT Don wrote:
In other words, I'd still first look for a slipping belt before buying
a new alternator, because that was a problem I had last winter: belt
loose, alternator doesn't turn right, battery doesn't charge, you
can't start suddenly.
In this case, I thought the symptoms were:
1.
Oops, I messed up in my last posting.
If the ignition didn't disconnect the power to the regulator
when the car was shut down, the alternator/regulator should
drain the battery in with the charge indicator lit. (but I
would think the drain would be very slow)
Jim Cathey wrote:
Makes me wish I had an ABS-defeat switch wired in,
but when you need it would you have time to hit it?
When my Taurus turns off the brakes as I'm going 15mph
down the hill into the stop sign nearest my house, I
have time to turn off the ignition to make the wheels
stop
So... as of last night I was thinking well it's supposed to be around 15F
this morning so I'll see how my 83' 300D handles that temp. Woke up this
morning and it was 25F, Pff, no problem.
Well... Something funky seemingly with the battery... It ran the glow
plugs fine, but barely turned over
Jim - and others familiar with snow driving: I have kids moving into a mild
snow area [Atlanta] from S. Florida, and as I recall driving in sand is not
the same ... I am trying to offer some advice to my daughter. IIRC, one of
the things I used to do that helped a good deal with stopping on icy
Yeah Levi, The Walmart batteries are made by Johnson control. Arguably the
best battery maker in the nation I have heard.
They do have a 1000CCA model for like 69 bucks for thier MAXX which is thier
top of the line battery.
Mike
- Original Message -
From: Levi Smith [EMAIL
Levi - if you won't go $100 (with the club discount) for a M-B battery at
the dealer, then the oft recommended batteries for our Diesels is the
Interstate brand, and particularly the Optima (more expensive, but
reportedly last a lot longer) Red Top. Looking for reliable service in a
Diesel,
The answer to A is YES. I had a 280Z that would not turn over the
engine. The battery indicated a full 12 volts, all the connections were
clean and tight, but it would not turn the starter. Just for grins, we
stuck in another battery, and it started right up. We took the battery
and had it tested.
Since everybody else is posting about their recent cold starts...
It got to 13F here last night, was about 19F when I went out this morning. Let
the glow light cycle and then maybe 20 seconds more, 2 pumps on the throttle
and hold at halfway, hit the key and it fired up like it was 50F out, no
Yup - trade it for another car ;-)
On 12/6/06, Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Has anyone replaced the dash lights on a 1997 Explorer. The lights in
the cluster (behind the speedo and other gauges) are out on my Wife's
car. Just wondering if anyone has any idea how to change them?
Levi Smith wrote:
So... as of last night I was thinking well it's supposed to be around 15F
this morning so I'll see how my 83' 300D handles that temp. Woke up this
morning and it was 25F, Pff, no problem.
Well... Something funky seemingly with the battery... It ran the glow
plugs fine, but
Curt Raymond wrote:
Since everybody else is posting about their recent cold starts...
It got to 13F here last night, was about 19F when I went out this morning. Let
the glow light cycle and then maybe 20 seconds more, 2 pumps on the throttle
and hold at halfway, hit the key and it fired up
I will disagree about the Optima Red Top. I have used these batteries for
heavy winching applications offroad and they do not hold up well at all in
comparison to the NAPA(read Exide) Orbital. If you are going to go with a
gel type the NAPA brand is way better than the Optima of any color.
Just a theory here but...If your source of iron IS timing chain wear
could it make any sense at all that the longer you run it the less it wears
until the point of failure? I don't know how to explain what I am
thinking..Kind of like there is less tension on the chain as it wears
more
This sounds facetious, but it is close to the truth. Remember, you are
NOT working on a Mercedes. THEY do NOT WANT you to fix ANYTHING. THEY go
to a lot of effort to make sure you cannot make any repairs. For
example, look at the connections for a Ford fuel filter. Take note of
the weird taillight
How warm does a block heater in a W123 heat up to? I plugged in my
diesel overnight (~ 28F) and it fired up immediately, while it takes
coaxing on a warm day without the heater.
Tim
1982 300TD
1991 300TE 4Matic
The block heater puts out a steady output of heat. Most block heaters use
750 watts, and that can be translated into an average number of BTUs or
calories. After a period of time, the water temp in the engine reaches a
steady state (SS), where the heat input equals the heat loss. This SS
it's a 500W heater, approximately heats to 40 C.
On 12/6/06, TimothyPilgrim [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
How warm does a block heater in a W123 heat up to? I plugged in my
diesel overnight (~ 28F) and it fired up immediately, while it takes
coaxing on a warm day without the heater.
Tim
1982 300TD
Ok Don wrote re: the dashlights in my explorer:
Yup - trade it for another car ;-)
When we first bought the Explorer, I would have agreed completely with
you. In fact, I was looking for things to go wrong, so we could get rid
of it. This is the first Ford I have ever had and I was
Mike - I personally use only M-B batteries, as they tend to have a
consistent 5 year (+/-) life, and don't cost significantly more than brand
X, when I drop across the border to Delaware (no sales tax) and get the
typical 10% MBCA discount. And I like to display the car at club car shows,
and
Want a few tons of Detroit iron with a diesel engine?
1984 Oldsmobile Diesel
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-Oldsmobile-Delta-88-Diesel_W0QQitemZ
320056751883QQihZ011QQcategoryZ6406QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Donald H. Snook
1990 300SEL 133K
I have had 3 123's that 290K, 375K and 475K on them respectively. I know
that the older diesels can last that long. I am sure the 124's can last
that long. But, I had no idea that the newer ones were as durable. Look
at this car - 300K on a 1997. That surprises me.
Would someone please buy this, so I am not tempted anymore!
If this is for real, won't someone snatch this up at the Buy it now,
price. Is this too good to be true. Don't get me wrong, that is a lot
of money for this vintage car, but I have seen them go for more with
more miles.
How would a slipping belt have any effect on the car when the engine is
not running? I yield to your vast military experience on that one. He
said the light stays on when the key is turned off and the engine is not
running. I guess its a slipping belt. Every time I have had that
happen to
Cant really tell. Feels like the front, but it could be the back making
it feel like the front though.
Jim Cathey wrote:
OK, so drove my new 91 2.5 turbo today and its squirly on the
highway.
Can you tell if the squirrels live in the front or the rear?
I've been told that you can kind of
ok
OK Don wrote:
It's obviously worn out, so it's only worth $500. I'll be there
Sunday, and will bring fresh squirrels.
On 12/5/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
OK, so drove my new 91 2.5 turbo today and its squirly on the highway.
I do remember when I used to own this car it
ohhh, no kidding, I cant believe that.
OK Don wrote:
Wife vetoed that idea ---
On 12/5/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I thought you were selling that car?
OK Don wrote:
My '87 300SDL started down to 0F last several winters with no effort
at all. I did count to ten after
Right.
Jim Cathey wrote:
Thinking about it, if a main alt. diode was shorted battery voltage
could be coupled to the windings, and thence to the B output
where the light goes. And if there's enough draw off of the
other end of the light, such as the rest of the car's electronics,
it could
You weren't hallucinating Kaleb, the military (not just LT, but the WHOLE
MILITARY), using their experience with electronics, actually made it LOOK
like the alternator was bad when really, it was just a slipping belt. They
had had an elaborate scheme where by you were supposed to ignore the
cool
Donald Snook wrote:
Want a few tons of Detroit iron with a diesel engine?
1984 Oldsmobile Diesel
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-Oldsmobile-Delta-88-Diesel_W0QQitemZ
320056751883QQihZ011QQcategoryZ6406QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Donald H. Snook
1990 300SEL 133K
Some good points for sure, but my car lives outside. I've got a
single-car garage and it's where the motorcycles sleep.
Your answer is in line with what my coffee time mechanics told me just
now (I have morning coffee with the guys from the Cadillac shop across
the road). The youngest guy
yes, that explains it.
Michael Hall wrote:
You weren't hallucinating Kaleb, the military (not just LT, but the WHOLE
MILITARY), using their experience with electronics, actually made it LOOK
like the alternator was bad when really, it was just a slipping belt. They
had had an elaborate scheme
I thought the MB battery was more expensive. I'm not planning on $40, but
$70 sounds more reasonable.
Yeah, I've got M1 in there. I mean it WAS turning over just fine over the
last few weeks with even colder temps. Just seems odd that it picks today
to suddenly have significantly less power.
Cant really tell. Feels like the front, but it could be the back
making
it feel like the front though.
My 190D squirrels felt front-loaded, and they were. I did have one
bad back link, but didn't notice much difference after I replaced it.
-- Jim
I would sure as hell hope so... There are plenty of Subaru's out there with
gas engines with more miles than that on original engines...
On 12/6/06, Donald Snook [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
I have had 3 123's that 290K, 375K and 475K on them respectively. I know
that the older diesels can last
The block heater puts out a steady output of heat. Most block heaters
use
750 watts, and that can be translated into an average number of BTUs or
My MB ones measure about 450W. Engine will eventually get to about
body temperature with enough time, unless sitting in an arctic blast.
(Wind
Just a theory here but...If your source of iron IS timing chain
wear
could it make any sense at all that the longer you run it the less it
wears
until the point of failure?
No. The tension doesn't go down 'cause there is a tensioner in there.
Wear _accelerates_, because the rollers no
Indiana, and it is something I have never done with ABS. Is shifting
into
neutral still a good tip with ABS?
It can't hurt, and may prevent the system from kicking in when it
doesn't really need to.
-- Jim
A) The battery charger seemed to think that the battery was about
full, yet
it would barely turn the engine over on it's own. (Have I got some
issue
where my battery still has voltage, but has lost it's amps?)
Yeah, that happens a lot when batteries die.
-- Jim
generally aimed at the #1 piston and that some of the newer Cadillacs
up here have a second block heater at the other end of the engine. How
does this compare to the W123?
Single one centered in the water jacket. Does a fab job, and
it's not a V-X so there's a lot less thermal isolation from
Jim - at the risk of starting a whole new thread, Wind Chill applies only
to living things (animate) that have a circulating system (blood).
Inanimate objects like machinery may cool faster if wind currents blow on
them, but the concept of lower than ambient wind chill temperatures does
NOT
Jim - at the risk of starting a whole new thread, Wind Chill applies
only
to living things (animate) that have a circulating system (blood).
Inanimate objects like machinery may cool faster if wind currents blow
on
them, but the concept of lower than ambient wind chill temperatures
does
NOT
I have one of the same body style. They will not last anywhere near as
long as a 123 or 124 or 126. The body rusts easily. Paint dings turn
to rust bubbles within weeks. Much of the metal has been replaced with
plastic - which cracks too easily. Especially the fuel delivery
components, steering
That is kind of typical..The starting better thing that is. My well
worn 260K mile 6.9 diesel in my van starts much nicer when the heater is
used in the cold compared to a nice sunny day and no heater.
Makes sense to me really.
Mike
- Original Message -
From: TimothyPilgrim
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