Re: [MBZ] testing

2015-08-07 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
The list continues to be unresponsive. I'm getting notices from Verizon the 
it's not getting responses from the list server and that retries are timing out 
after several hours.

Kaleb, you need to get on someone's ass about this. It's been going on for a 
week.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 7, 2015, at 7:37 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
wrote:

 6:05pm EDT, 8-7-15
 
 FAILing6:35 pm CDT, but it has been in the inbox an hour and a half or so.
 
 Timestamp:   Fri, 07 Aug 2015 15:04:41 -0700 (PDT)
 
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Re: [MBZ] testing

2015-08-07 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
I did not get the ticket submitted like I thought, it is now. I will soon know 
if it is a Verizon issue like I suspect.

Sent from my iPhone

 On Aug 7, 2015, at 6:58 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:
 
 The list continues to be unresponsive. I'm getting notices from Verizon the 
 it's not getting responses from the list server and that retries are timing 
 out after several hours.
 
 Kaleb, you need to get on someone's ass about this. It's been going on for a 
 week.
 
 Dan
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 On Aug 7, 2015, at 7:37 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 6:05pm EDT, 8-7-15
 
 FAILing6:35 pm CDT, but it has been in the inbox an hour and a half or 
 so.
 
 Timestamp:   Fri, 07 Aug 2015 15:04:41 -0700 (PDT)
 
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Re: [MBZ] testing

2015-08-07 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes

Came thru right away from the list to me.

On 8/7/2015 5:04 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

6:05pm EDT, 8-7-15

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Re: [MBZ] testing

2015-08-07 Thread Mitch Haley via Mercedes


 On August 7, 2015 at 8:31 PM Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 
 Came thru right away from the list to me.

Me too, was in my inbox within 30 seconds after I sent it. 

Mitch. 

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Re: [MBZ] testing

2015-08-07 Thread OK Don via Mercedes
It looks like it arrived a minute before you sent it at this end.

On Fri, Aug 7, 2015 at 5:04 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 6:05pm EDT, 8-7-15

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-- 
OK Don

NSA: The only branch of government that actually listens to US citizens!

*“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many of
our people need it sorely on these accounts.”* – Mark Twain

There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few who
learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric fence
for themselves.

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2012 Passat TDI DSG, 44 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] ?

2015-08-07 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
and probably full of asbestos, too.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

 On Aug 3, 2015, at 12:46 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 Ahh the workday. By the time you wrote I'd already been at work for nearly 2 
 hours inflicting knowledge on the unsuspecting...
 I spent most of yesterday jacking Angie's parent's 150 year old house trying 
 to level out the kitchen so we can lay tile. We bought the tile for them at 
 Christmas 2013, I'd like to get it down before this Christmas. After 
 replacing 2 wooden posts and raising half of the house about 3/4 the floor 
 is pretty level and has most of the sag taken out of the center so the peel 
 and stick tiles will probably survive for a good long time.Before you 
 denigrate peel and stick tiles they'll be replacing linoleum from the '60s 
 that is literally worn through...
 -Curt
  From: WILTON via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 To: mercedes list mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 Cc: WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com 
 Sent: Monday, August 3, 2015 9:59 AM
 Subject: [MBZ] ?
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] Power Booster saga

2015-08-07 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
Probably.

I'm not sure how the heat factors into it, but a lockup in one wheel is usually 
a hose whose internal lining has failed and swelled.

Dan

Sent from my iPad

 On Aug 3, 2015, at 12:20 PM, Bob via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 A few weeks ago I mentioned I broke down on the way to my shorehouse. Since 
 I  replaced the power booster on my 78 240D before I went ahead   ordered 
 A PB from Rockauto.con,got it in a day  a half .I contortingly  installed 
 it [ Dan- easy for me being 5'-6]  Then I realized the check  valve on the 
 vacuum pump was kaput.  Couldn't remove it due to the galling  between the 
 steel valve  the aluminum body. So I put in a new one. I even  had to remove 
 a broken bolt from the previous owner. Bled the brakes with my  homemade 
 pressure bleeder [Boy that's fun !!]
 Then when I would drive it a few miles,after a few lights  
 my front right  caliper would lock up  I had to abandon the car Half an 
 hour later I come  back I would drive back to my house before it would get 
 tight again. I  installed both front NEW calipers[Bendix] just 2 years ago. I 
 replaced all four  brake hoses about 4 years ago.
  My question  is does this sound like  brake hoses collapsing on the 
 inside ?? I don't remember my source for these  hoses [Chinese?] My car 
 brakes would be fine after it cools  down  after a half hour or more. I 
 bled 
 the brakes again still same thing.
 I did notice that my rear  brake hoses did have some black specs 
 when I bled them so I'm wondering about  the hoses.
   HELP ! I'm now 92 miles away from my  car since I had to come home 
 due to renters.  I'm 4 weeks away from My week  at the house when I could 
 work on it again in my driveway. Any suggestions ?? If  I need hoses I'll 
 order 
 from MB. Caliper from Rockauto. THanx guys. 
 
 Bob 
 1983 240D
 
 PS runs like a new car except for the eventual lockup
 
 
 
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[MBZ] OT: Thermostats at Liquidation Pricing

2015-08-07 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes
Since many of you have been having Heating/AC problems this year, may 
someone is interested in a new thermostat.  These guys have been 
sending me a lot of deals for air cond.  Sounds like Kleb is fixed up 
again, but someone else may be down.


Happy DIYing!



Click on the click here link below to see the thermostats on sale. 
Some are really cheap.  For the website: surpluscityliquidators.com 
if you need a furnace, a/c water hotter, 'lectric motor, etc.





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Re: [MBZ] ? for the easterners

2015-08-07 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
Not even close, thank goodness.

He’s in South Florida living with his mom.  His daughter attends Florida 
Polytechnic in Lakeland, FL, which is about halfway between Tampa and Orlando.  
He was trying to find a way to live in Lakeland when his daughter first got 
accepted to Florida Poly.

Dan


 On Aug 4, 2015, at 12:44 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 Go spend the winter with FL Fats, isn't he somewhere near Tampa?
 -Curt
  From: Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 Cc: Curly McLain 126die...@gmail.com 
 Sent: Tuesday, August 4, 2015 12:07 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] ? for the easterners
 
 I went to Naples last Feb. and swam in the Gulf - barely tolerable at 70
 degrees.
 
 Napoli is nice, but too far and too expensive.  It might cost less to 
 go to the real Napoli than the fake one in FL.
 
 We are trying to find someplace that is available and easy travel for 
 family in gu'fpo't and West Virginny, and preferably warm and some 
 form of sand beach, if only a pond.
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] This is bad

2015-08-07 Thread Max Dillon via Mercedes
How do organic pads compare to ceramic?
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On August 7, 2015 10:06:33 AM EDT, Dan Penoff via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
If you want to go on the cheap with some organic pads, check out Rock
Auto. They have had some seriously good deals on close outs for brake
pads of late. I just picked up a set of domestic organic pads for the
98 S420 last week for $6.
D

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Re: [MBZ] New Addition to the Driveway

2015-08-07 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
I don’t know if the OBDII thing had anything do do with the facelift in 1996, 
as all of the information was already there - they just weren’t making it 
accessible via the OBDII standards.

We haven’t topped off from the drive back from Mobile, but should be in the 
next day or two.  I’m interested to see what kind of mileage we got.  I don’t 
think 25 MPG is realistic, as I drove the 1998 S420 back from St. Louis and 
only got around 23 MPG.  It’s got to be better than the coupe, as it only got 
around 16-17 MPG on a mixed driving cycle.

I’ll report back as soon as I know.

Dan


 On Aug 2, 2015, at 7:36 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 
 Didn't the entire computer system get upgraded in 1996 since they had to 
 change
 it anyway to meet OBD-II?
 Do any of the mechanical transmission models have a chance of hitting 25mpg on
 the highway?
 
 Mitch. 
 
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Re: [MBZ] OT - a little excitement, propane fire

2015-08-07 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
I haven’t noticed if Costco sells propane here.  I’ll be interested to see what 
Andrew finds out.

Dan


 On Aug 4, 2015, at 3:08 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 That's sick.  HD charges more than triple what you pay.  I'll check at the
 Pentagon City Costco when I go there later today..
 


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Re: [MBZ] Trying to screw the clown

2015-08-07 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
If I watch TV at all tonight, as I rarely do, it will be to see the latest 
episode of Rick and Morty on Adult Swim.

Another really awesome series on AS is Mr. Pickles. I highly recommend it, 
although you better be up for some really off color, raunchy and moderately 
violent stuff presented in a very humorous fashion.  Brooke Shields voices the 
mother on it. That won't have the desired effect until you see the show, then 
it will surprise you

Dan fan of Robot Chicken and Aqua Teen Hunger Force

Sent from my iPad

 On Aug 6, 2015, at 3:27 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 Very creative!!
 
 On Thu, Aug 6, 2015 at 3:10 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 Yeah its hard telling.
 Graham could have done something better, auction Trump's number for
 charity or something...
 -Curt
  From: Andrew Strasfogel astrasfo...@gmail.com
 To: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com; Mercedes Discussion List 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Thursday, August 6, 2015 3:02 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Trying to screw the clown
 
 WOW, that's a tough one:  who is the bigger a**hole?
 
 
 On Thu, Aug 6, 2015 at 2:59 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 Lindsey Graham is the schmuck, he did it after Trump posted his phone
 number.
 I wonder if Trump thought it through from the first place or got lucky
 when Graham destroyed his phone...
 -Curt
  From: Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Cc: Curly McLain 126die...@gmail.com
 Sent: Thursday, August 6, 2015 2:48 PM
 Subject: [MBZ] Trying to screw the clown
 
 So some schmuck posted the clowns private cell phone # to the
 internet; trying to get him all bent.
 
 He puts a recorded campaign message on the phone and smiles!
 
 Gotta love a real 'Mercan!So much different than a DC borg!
 
 
 Making lemonade out of lemons!
 
 
 
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[MBZ] Ceramic brakes Wuz:This is bad

2015-08-07 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes

DO you want or care about clean wheels?

Ceramic will keep your wheels cleaner.  I've had very good luck with 
cheap pads from oreely.  They do make your wheels dirty.  I just 
clean and paint the wheels every few years with a rattlecan.  Unless 
you are driving on a race track, the cheap (organic) pads work very 
well.  If you plan to drag the brakes all the way down a mountain, 
they may fade, but I never have any problem.


Ceramic on the dogde van:  The anti skid accelerometer has been fubar 
mostly since we got the van.  Most of the time the system turns 
itself off, but sometimes the LF brake drags.  this ruins the discs 
and pads.  About 18 months ago I put new pads and rotors on; did the 
ceramic pad breakin stuff; and they were wonderful.


Unfortunately, i never figured out how to snip the purple wire 
somewhere buried under the console that is said to disable the 
antiskid system.  So the new rotors and pads are ruined.  I recently 
dug in to the console innards and found the accelerometer.  I never 
found the purple wire, but I unplugged the accelerometer, with the 
same effect.  Anti skid is now dead.  There are 2 fuses you can pull 
to disable, but it also kills the speedometer, odometer and some 
other somewhat necessary systems.  This is all not really the fault 
of ceramic pads, but i don't think the cheap pads would cause the 
rotor warping like these did.


The whole deal of the special breakin procedure for the ceramic pads 
is related to not warping the rotors and putting a glaze on the 
ceramic pad.




How do organic pads compare to ceramic?
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300



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[MBZ] Ceramic brakes Wuz:This is bad

2015-08-07 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes
FWIW:  I have never had ceramic pads on an MB.  ALL stop well, no 
problems with fade, etc with the cheap or midrange pads.  The very 
cheapest pads are ok, they just make your wheels dirtier.  Midrange 
are a little less dirty for the wheels.


OE on the MBs were organic or asbestos, depending on age. (pre 1990 MBs)
OE on the dogde were ceramic, so I used ceramic there.



DO you want or care about clean wheels?

Ceramic will keep your wheels cleaner.  I've had very good luck with 
cheap pads from oreely.  They do make your wheels dirty.  I just 
clean and paint the wheels every few years with a rattlecan.  Unless 
you are driving on a race track, the cheap (organic) pads work very 
well.  If you plan to drag the brakes all the way down a mountain, 
they may fade, but I never have any problem.


Ceramic on the dogde van:  The anti skid accelerometer has been fubar 
mostly since we got the van.  Most of the time the system turns 
itself off, but sometimes the LF brake drags.  this ruins the discs 
and pads.  About 18 months ago I put new pads and rotors on; did the 
ceramic pad breakin stuff; and they were wonderful.


Unfortunately, i never figured out how to snip the purple wire 
somewhere buried under the console that is said to disable the 
antiskid system.  So the new rotors and pads are ruined.  I recently 
dug in to the console innards and found the accelerometer.  I never 
found the purple wire, but I unplugged the accelerometer, with the 
same effect.  Anti skid is now dead.  There are 2 fuses you can pull 
to disable, but it also kills the speedometer, odometer and some 
other somewhat necessary systems.  This is all not really the fault 
of ceramic pads, but i don't think the cheap pads would cause the 
rotor warping like these did.


The whole deal of the special breakin procedure for the ceramic pads 
is related to not warping the rotors and putting a glaze on the 
ceramic pad.




How do organic pads compare to ceramic?
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300



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Re: [MBZ] Urgent repair shop needed in central mass

2015-08-07 Thread Dan Penoff via Mercedes
So now we have an approved repair facility we can rely on if we're passing 
through northern New  Jersey?

I tried sending this when you originally posted, but the OkieISP must have been 
on the blink. There is a forum on Benzworld listing repair facilities all over 
the U.S. By region and city.

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/recommended-repair-shops/

Dan

Sent from my iPad

 On Aug 5, 2015, at 10:20 PM, Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 Thanks guys he ended up with a tow trunk to my house in northern NJ.
 
 I rebuilt the pump... he had the kits in the trunk oddly enough.  The new
 diaphragm tore nearly immediately.  The kits were made in Taiwan.
 
 So now Gary has to find me quality parts so I can get this thing fixed and
 out of my garage this weekend!
 
 Jaime
 
 On Tue, Aug 4, 2015 at 12:33 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 No ideas, its well outside of my operating area. Theres a TDI guy in
 Agawam, oops I guess its Westfield, that might be worth calling. If he
 can't help he might know somebody who can.
 Mike McCannaka 94xWestfield, MA 01085413-455-5602TDIMike@comcast.netASE
 Certified L1 Master Automotive Technician for over 15 years. I have the
 necessary TDI diagnostic and specialty tools to perform the job correctly.
 Many parts in stock to reduce down time.
 
 -Curt
 
  From: Jaime Kopchinski via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 To: mercedes Mailing List mercedes@okiebenz.com; mercedes 
 merce...@mercedeslist.com
 Cc: Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com
 Sent: Tuesday, August 4, 2015 10:09 AM
 Subject: [MBZ] Urgent repair shop needed in central mass
 
 Hi all,
 I have a friend off of I-84 just south of the mass pike who broke down in
 his 77 300D.  Sounds like a vacuum pump failure... Engine runs fine, but
 brakes are hard and there are no vacuum functions working.
 
 Anyone have a shop in the area to recommend?
 
 He needs to get back to NJ soon, but repair might be a better option than a
 tow and local repair.
 
 Thanks,
 
 Jaime
 
 
 --
 Jaime Kopchinski
 http://www.jaimekop.com/
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 -- 
 Jaime Kopchinski
 http://www.jaimekop.com/
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Re: [MBZ] OT Jacks

2015-08-07 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
Umm. I'd submit that either you don't have a very good jack (you're sure its a 
20 ton and not a 2 ton? 2 ton bottle jack is maybe 3 in diameter, 20 ton is 
more like 6) or you've got a very heavy cottage.
Maybe 13 years ago the floor in my grandmother's house was sagging really bad 
under the fridge. We cut a 6x8 hole in the floor and found a broken beam. We 
sistered 2x8s on to both sides and jacked both broken pieces into place, then 
ran bolts through the 2x8s and the other piece of beam, put another 2x8 under 
it and fashioned a post under that. All the jacking for that job was done with 
a 5 ton bottle jack since we couldn't find the 20. My grandmother's house is 
quite large, 2 stories with high ceilings, built around 1850 if I remember 
right. We weren't lifting the whole house on that job but the fridge backed up 
against an interior wall which had settled a bit more than an inch so we were 
lifting the interior of the house. You could also see some bow come out of the 
ceiling. That one we lifted over two days. Had to cordon off the hole in the 
floor lest somebody forget and stumble into it on the way to get a drink of 
water in the night.
-Curt
  From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
 To: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com; Mercedes Discussion List 
mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 Sent: Friday, August 7, 2015 2:27 PM
 Subject: OT Jacks
   
When I jack the cottage to level it, it makes the 20 ton jacks work.
Last summer I bought a bunch of the big old screw jacks. 6 of them are 
about 2 feet tall and I think I have 6 that are about 1 foot or a bit 
more and thenI have 3 or 4 smaller ones.
The idea with these is that you can leave them in place and give them a 
half turn every couple of weeks and slowly move a building back up where 
it should be without much danger of tearing things apart or breaking glass.
There is an addition on the south side of my house sitting on a grade 
beam on bell piles that has settled and I hope to raise it back up at 
some point. Unfortunately, it has a crawl space that is not easy to get 
into and I may have to cut a hole in the floor in the den in order to 
gain sufficient access. When I built the addition, I left a small 
opening and put a trap door in the floor of a closet. Big enough to get 
in and out but not all that good for hauling in lumber to build a beam 
to jack on. I would also have to cut the stucco on the exterior and find 
and release the bolts or cut them so that the building could be slowly 
lifted off of the grade beam and up where it should be. Then I would 
need to fill the gap and restucco the outside. I would also have to cap 
the poured doorsteps on both the east and west sides as they are part of 
the gradebeam and are down too. Not too obvious now but if the house 
were levelled, then the porches would be very obviously out of whack.
The addition is 10 feet wide and 30 feet long and 2 storeys high. It has 
settled about 2 inches on the outer edge and 2 inches on 10 feet is 
obvious when I walk from the original house into the new part. No 
plumbing or kitchen or bath etc. so not too much to cause other issues. 
I think that the pull on that side of the house has altered the whole 
house as some of the doors in the original house do not stay open on 
their own now etc. I think, that if it was slowly moved back where it 
started, it should sort out most of the issues that have been created by 
the fact that the addition settled. The house was built new in 1981 and 
the addition added in 1987 so none of it is ancient.
That is why I acquired all of these jacks.

RB



On 07/08/2015 10:54 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:
 I know, I was embarrassed to have to bring it but I forgot the 20 at camp...
 -Curt
        From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
  To: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com; Mercedes Discussion List 
mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Sent: Friday, August 7, 2015 11:35 AM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] This is bad
    
 A 12 ton jack is a small tool.

 RB



 On 07/08/2015 10:31 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:
 Claw hammers are for driving nails, machinists hammers are for machines... I 
 think mine is a 3# hammer but it gets used for basically everything except 
 driving nails.
 Shoulda seen my father-in-law last week when I was unloading my house 
 jacking tools, 5# hammer, 12 ton jack, 4x4 post. If you're going to lift a 
 house you don't use small tools.
 -Curt
          From: Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
    To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Cc: Curly McLain 126die...@gmail.com
    Sent: Friday, August 7, 2015 11:19 AM
    Subject: Re: [MBZ] This is bad
      
 2 lb at HF is maybe $6 and well worth it for tie rods and ball
 joints, etc.  Mine is maybe 12 over all, so it is easier to
 maneuver than a claw hammer and has twice the clout.

 TO take out the tapered bolts on IH H, they say to whack the side of
 the yoke while applying pressure.  I used a crowbar and the 2 lb LFH
 and they popped right out. 

Re: [MBZ] No more sinking, maybe

2015-08-07 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes

On 07/08/2015 3:33 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

FTE master cylinder arrived last night about 8:30 p.m., I had half a day
off so I installed it after lunch.  Did not bench bleed it, just used the
power bleeder and pushed fresh fluid out to all four wheels.

Pedal feel is exactly like before (mushy) but it has always been mushy on
that car.  I may decide to try a different brake booster.  What causes a
mushy brake pedal other than air or bad MC?  Time for new brake hoses at
all four corners?

At first, the pedal would sink, just like with the last MC.  I drove it
around the block and stopped hard a few times, and it got better.  Doesn't
sink now, brakes do their thing just fine, no pulling.  I may get some more
brake fluid and try bleeding it some more.

I think I'll drive this car for a few days and see how it performs.
-
Max
Charleston SC
___

I think I would bleed the brakes some more. My son replaced some rusted 
brake lines on an old 4Runner that we had a few years back and had a 
devil of a time getting a good pedal. I think he bled it about 4 times 
before he got all of the air out.


RB

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Re: [MBZ] This is bad

2015-08-07 Thread Meade Dillon via Mercedes
New Moog tie-rod ends installed yesterday evening, they have a lifetime
warranty.

I have the MB special tool (201 589 13 33 00, see picture procedure
46-6177) for removing the outer tie-rod end, works like a champ.  Inner,
not so good.  The tool orientation on the inner end puts the tool nut up
into the engine compartment, so that there is no room to get a wrench on
it.

The nut is 24mm, and the only sockets I have for that are normal depth; a
deep well is required.  I don't own a 24mm deep well socket, so I made a
spacer from a Harbor Freight 32mm socket by cutting off about 10mm (there
is a 32mm counter-hold point on the tool just below the part that the nut
pushes on).  Took me about an hour to cut off that 10mm and grind the edge
flat; this was an impact wrench socket, pretty beefy.  Poor little harbor
freight bench grinder with a cut-off wheel at one end and a course grinding
stone at the other, gets the job done but easily bogs down so I don't push
it.

I carefully measure the distance between the ends of the old tie-rod, and
adjust new to match, but of course the steering wheel is now cocked at
about 1:00, so an alignment is forthcoming.

Odd thing was that immediately after the work, at the first start-up for a
test drive, the brake pad sensor light decided to light up and tell me the
front pad(s) are low.  It was winking at first, went off while backing up,
but then after a few yards of forward motion it stayed on steady. Took the
left front wheel off again to make sure I didn't mess that up, couldn't
find anything, and that inner pad does indeed look a little thin and the
disc might be contacting the sensor now.  I may pull the sensor connection
off at that pad and see if that clears the light.  Good excuse to install
Akebono ceramic pads.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Thu, Aug 6, 2015 at 5:28 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 On 06/08/2015 2:24 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

 Too late for that.  If I make a command decision and just get'er done,
 as
 long as the result is positive then I don't even need to ask forgiveness.

 Once I open the can and ask the question, then (I've learned) it's just
 best to keep her totally in the loop.

 Plan B it is, until a better option comes along.

 Lots of rain and lightening here now, may have to move the work into the
 garage tonight.

 -
 Max
 Charleston SC


 My good wife would not care what I spent or how I got the car fixed so
 long as I just did it.
 She has been giving me a hard time about the length of time my car has sat
 in the garage since I had brake issues a while back.

 RB


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Re: [MBZ] More ac

2015-08-07 Thread Jim Cathey via Mercedes
It apparently got stuck on last night, I woke up this morning to 67 in 
the house. The electric bill is probably not going the be pleasant.


Welded contacts are not all that rare, if it's built with the
tech that is susceptible to that.  Not all that hard to patch,
either.  Or to cure.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] More ac

2015-08-07 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
Wife is calling home warranty people today to see if they fix it, if not I 
guess I will dive into it

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 7, 2015, at 8:21 AM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
wrote:

 It apparently got stuck on last night, I woke up this morning to 67 in the 
 house. The electric bill is probably not going the be pleasant.
 
 Welded contacts are not all that rare, if it's built with the
 tech that is susceptible to that.  Not all that hard to patch,
 either.  Or to cure.
 
 -- Jim
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] This is bad

2015-08-07 Thread Meade Dillon via Mercedes
New Moog tie-rod ends installed yesterday evening, they have a lifetime
warranty.

I have the MB special tool (201 589 13 33 00, see picture procedure
46-6177) for removing the outer tie-rod end, works like a champ.  Inner,
not so good.  The tool orientation on the inner end puts the tool nut up
into the engine compartment, so that there is no room to get a wrench on
it.

The nut is 24mm, and the only sockets I have for that are normal depth; a
deep well is required.  I don't own a 24mm deep well socket, so I made a
spacer from a Harbor Freight 32mm socket by cutting off about 10mm (there
is a 32mm counter-hold point on the tool just below the part that the nut
pushes on).  Took me about an hour to cut off that 10mm and grind the edge
flat; this was an impact wrench socket, pretty beefy.  Poor little harbor
freight bench grinder with a cut-off wheel at one end and a course grinding
stone at the other, gets the job done but easily bogs down so I don't push
it.

I carefully measure the distance between the ends of the old tie-rod, and
adjust new to match, but of course the steering wheel is now cocked at
about 1:00, so an alignment is forthcoming.

Odd thing was that immediately after the work, at the first start-up for a
test drive, the brake pad sensor light decided to light up and tell me the
front pad(s) are low.  It was winking at first, went off while backing up,
but then after a few yards of forward motion it stayed on steady. Took the
left front wheel off again to make sure I didn't mess that up, couldn't
find anything, and that inner pad does indeed look a little thin and the
disc might be contacting the sensor now.  I may pull the sensor connection
off at that pad and see if that clears the light.  Good excuse to install
Akebono ceramic pads.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Thu, Aug 6, 2015 at 5:28 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 On 06/08/2015 2:24 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

 Too late for that.  If I make a command decision and just get'er done,
 as
 long as the result is positive then I don't even need to ask forgiveness.

 Once I open the can and ask the question, then (I've learned) it's just
 best to keep her totally in the loop.

 Plan B it is, until a better option comes along.

 Lots of rain and lightening here now, may have to move the work into the
 garage tonight.

 -
 Max
 Charleston SC


 My good wife would not care what I spent or how I got the car fixed so
 long as I just did it.
 She has been giving me a hard time about the length of time my car has sat
 in the garage since I had brake issues a while back.

 RB


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[MBZ] testing

2015-08-07 Thread Mitch Haley via Mercedes
6:05pm EDT, 8-7-15

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Re: [MBZ] No more sinking, maybe

2015-08-07 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes

FTE master cylinder arrived last night about 8:30 p.m., I had half a day
off so I installed it after lunch.  Did not bench bleed it, just used the
power bleeder and pushed fresh fluid out to all four wheels.

Pedal feel is exactly like before (mushy) but it has always been mushy on
that car.  I may decide to try a different brake booster.  What causes a
mushy brake pedal other than air or bad MC?  Time for new brake hoses at
all four corners?

At first, the pedal would sink, just like with the last MC.  I drove it
around the block and stopped hard a few times, and it got better.  Doesn't
sink now, brakes do their thing just fine, no pulling.  I may get some more
brake fluid and try bleeding it some more.

I think I'll drive this car for a few days and see how it performs.
-
Max
Charleston SC
___



I am guessing you did not get all the air out of the master.  Did you 
bench bleed it first?  If not, it probably had air in it.  Often when 
driving, the master will bleed the air into the reservoir, or worse, 
the new rubber will rip or tear or scuff and you end up with a new 
leaky MC.


It is handy to have a junker around to borrow old MC lines from.  cut 
them 6-8 long and bend them so they go back into the MC.  Put on 
short rubber hoses that go under the fluid surface.  Put the MC in a 
vice, fill, then  run the plunger to the stop and back out several 
times until no more air bubbles come out.


Anyhow, if the pedal is firm now, you probably have all the air out.

waytago!

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Re: [MBZ] ? for the easterners

2015-08-07 Thread Tim Crone via Mercedes
On Aug 4, 2015 12:26 PM, WILTON via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:

  I vowed to return and do the  tour by myself, but have never returned.

The older Cub Scouts here (central NC) go annually, well worth the trip.  I
think we've aged out of the trip, at least until the baby is in Webelos.

To the original question, we tend to visit:
Savannah
Myrtle Beach
NC Outer Banks / eastern forests

Savannah is a nice historic city, my wife and I go there on long weekends
without children. (Charleston has a similar reputation, but I've never
stayed in the city personally.) We always stay in the historic section of
Savannah, where it is easy to walk to various places / monuments /
squares.  It is heavily dependent on summer tourism so I don't know what is
closed in winter, but the displays should be up if you like walking and
touring.  I have been satisfied with my walking guidebook of Savannah,
though we did take a ghost tour one year that was fun.  Savannah is a
working port, so you can find anything you want in the city proper
year-round.

Myrtle has a lot of stuff to do if you want to try different restaurants,
see shows, etc., and also sit on the beach.  We take the kids there most
Thanksgivings (and I usually wear a light jacket at most).  It is the Vegas
of SC, without the legal gambling but with an ocean.  Not my thing but the
wife and kids prefer it.  The ocean water is cool by November but
tolerable.  If you are a swimmer many hotels have indoor pools that use
filtered ocean water, so you can have the experience without the ick.

The Outer Banks are good if you like to explore nature.  Lots of fishing
and swimming (maybe not so much of the latter in winter).  There's a lot of
hiking - big forests on the mainland, too - if that appeals. You'd be
comfortable in a light jacket, but probably not without.  It is cheap to
visit the OB in winter, but you may have to bring in and prepare your own
food and drink as a lot of the businesses are closed.

Personally I would stay out of Florida, maybe bring along a functional but
dirty 140 to lure Penoff north.  Refugees from Florida have told me St. Aug
is decent, but as you go south you lose the Southern vibe and it gets nasty
fast.  That said if you want to swim in the ocean you may need to go there,
and if so I'm sorry...

In your shoes I'd probably go to Charleston for the company/ocean or
Savannah for the history, and I think you'll find it's pretty comfortable
in either.  Just wanted to present some alternatives that might make for
different kinds of trips.  Hope you have a great time!

Best,
Tim
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Re: [MBZ] OT gold (and everything else) is crashing

2015-08-07 Thread Tim Crone via Mercedes
On Aug 3, 2015 11:22 AM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 A Washington Porst reporter binge-read ALL of Trump's books over a single
 weekend!  His observtions are worth noting, since he is the likely R
 standard bearer.

I'm just curious if hire an assistant man has read them all himself.  I'm
not particularly surprised the reporter thinks they are disjointed.

Once upon a time a tool guy told me Colin Powell does his own work on his
Volvos.  Why isn't he running?

In other news, I got to spend 20 minutes looking at the SDLs' engines the
other day.  More on that later, the up shot is that I'm feeling better
about moving the 300's engine rather than just the head.

Best,
Tim
Not running for president
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Re: [MBZ] This is bad

2015-08-07 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes

A 12 ton jack is a small tool.

RB

On 07/08/2015 10:31 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:

Claw hammers are for driving nails, machinists hammers are for machines... I 
think mine is a 3# hammer but it gets used for basically everything except 
driving nails.
Shoulda seen my father-in-law last week when I was unloading my house jacking 
tools, 5# hammer, 12 ton jack, 4x4 post. If you're going to lift a house you 
don't use small tools.
-Curt
   From: Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: Curly McLain 126die...@gmail.com
  Sent: Friday, August 7, 2015 11:19 AM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] This is bad

2 lb at HF is maybe $6 and well worth it for tie rods and ball

joints, etc.  Mine is maybe 12 over all, so it is easier to
maneuver than a claw hammer and has twice the clout.

TO take out the tapered bolts on IH H, they say to whack the side of
the yoke while applying pressure.  I used a crowbar and the 2 lb LFH
and they popped right out.  Had to do this 2-3 times recently.

Same technique should work for tie rod ends/BJ.



I always try a few blows with a regular hammer, I think only once have I
gotten lucky.

This tool was about $50 or so, bought back when Rusty was in business, and
I really like it.  Position, tighten up a bit and check to make sure it's
holding, crank it down nice and snug (three or four white knuckles of
torque), hammer the end contacting the threaded portion of the joint and
the joint usually pops right out after a couple hits.

Someday when I've got some time to play (maybe today, depending on weather)
I will try making a perfect box with string around the perimeter of the
car, then measure / adjust the toe-in.  Another way would be to make two
parallel lines with string, then drive the car between and measure/adjust.
Would be so nice to have a pit or a lift for this work.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Fri, Aug 7, 2015 at 10:11 AM, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:


   I've never had the tool.  I just back the nut off to flush, then pop it
   with a short handle 2 pounder.  That is done from the bottom, so no
   clearance problems Clarence.

   If one is really bad, i've used the pickle forks, but both of mine are
   gone now, so I just use the LFH.

   You can adjust toe fairly close with just a tape, the the homemade caliper
   works better.  I've never made the homemade caliper.



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Re: [MBZ] This is bad

2015-08-07 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
I know, I was embarrassed to have to bring it but I forgot the 20 at camp...
-Curt
  From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
 To: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com; Mercedes Discussion List 
mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 Sent: Friday, August 7, 2015 11:35 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] This is bad
   
A 12 ton jack is a small tool.

RB



On 07/08/2015 10:31 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:
 Claw hammers are for driving nails, machinists hammers are for machines... I 
 think mine is a 3# hammer but it gets used for basically everything except 
 driving nails.
 Shoulda seen my father-in-law last week when I was unloading my house jacking 
 tools, 5# hammer, 12 ton jack, 4x4 post. If you're going to lift a house you 
 don't use small tools.
 -Curt
        From: Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
  To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Cc: Curly McLain 126die...@gmail.com
  Sent: Friday, August 7, 2015 11:19 AM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] This is bad
    
 2 lb at HF is maybe $6 and well worth it for tie rods and ball
 joints, etc.  Mine is maybe 12 over all, so it is easier to
 maneuver than a claw hammer and has twice the clout.

 TO take out the tapered bolts on IH H, they say to whack the side of
 the yoke while applying pressure.  I used a crowbar and the 2 lb LFH
 and they popped right out.  Had to do this 2-3 times recently.

 Same technique should work for tie rod ends/BJ.


 I always try a few blows with a regular hammer, I think only once have I
 gotten lucky.

 This tool was about $50 or so, bought back when Rusty was in business, and
 I really like it.  Position, tighten up a bit and check to make sure it's
 holding, crank it down nice and snug (three or four white knuckles of
 torque), hammer the end contacting the threaded portion of the joint and
 the joint usually pops right out after a couple hits.

 Someday when I've got some time to play (maybe today, depending on weather)
 I will try making a perfect box with string around the perimeter of the
 car, then measure / adjust the toe-in.  Another way would be to make two
 parallel lines with string, then drive the car between and measure/adjust.
 Would be so nice to have a pit or a lift for this work.

 -
 Max
 Charleston SC

 On Fri, Aug 7, 2015 at 10:11 AM, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

    I've never had the tool.  I just back the nut off to flush, then pop it
    with a short handle 2 pounder.  That is done from the bottom, so no
    clearance problems Clarence.

    If one is really bad, i've used the pickle forks, but both of mine are
    gone now, so I just use the LFH.

    You can adjust toe fairly close with just a tape, the the homemade 
caliper
    works better.  I've never made the homemade caliper.


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Re: [MBZ] This is bad

2015-08-07 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes
I've never had the tool.  I just back the nut off to flush, then pop 
it with a short handle 2 pounder.  That is done from the bottom, so 
no clearance problems Clarence.


If one is really bad, i've used the pickle forks, but both of mine 
are gone now, so I just use the LFH.


You can adjust toe fairly close with just a tape, the the homemade 
caliper works better.  I've never made the homemade caliper.




New Moog tie-rod ends installed yesterday evening, they have a lifetime
warranty.

I have the MB special tool (201 589 13 33 00, see picture procedure
46-6177) for removing the outer tie-rod end, works like a champ.  Inner,
not so good.  The tool orientation on the inner end puts the tool nut up
into the engine compartment, so that there is no room to get a wrench on
it.

The nut is 24mm, and the only sockets I have for that are normal depth; a
deep well is required.  I don't own a 24mm deep well socket, so I made a
spacer from a Harbor Freight 32mm socket by cutting off about 10mm (there
is a 32mm counter-hold point on the tool just below the part that the nut
pushes on).  Took me about an hour to cut off that 10mm and grind the edge
flat; this was an impact wrench socket, pretty beefy.  Poor little harbor
freight bench grinder with a cut-off wheel at one end and a course grinding
stone at the other, gets the job done but easily bogs down so I don't push
it.

I carefully measure the distance between the ends of the old tie-rod, and
adjust new to match, but of course the steering wheel is now cocked at
about 1:00, so an alignment is forthcoming.

Odd thing was that immediately after the work, at the first start-up for a
test drive, the brake pad sensor light decided to light up and tell me the
front pad(s) are low.  It was winking at first, went off while backing up,
but then after a few yards of forward motion it stayed on steady. Took the
left front wheel off again to make sure I didn't mess that up, couldn't
find anything, and that inner pad does indeed look a little thin and the
disc might be contacting the sensor now.  I may pull the sensor connection
off at that pad and see if that clears the light.  Good excuse to install
Akebono ceramic pads.

-
Max
Charleston SC


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Re: [MBZ] OT gold (and everything else) is crashing

2015-08-07 Thread Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes
She was younger so obviously had to be his niece.

On Fri, Aug 7, 2015 at 10:03 AM, Rich Thomas via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

 I used to work for this guy who had a townhouse in Alexandria when CP was
 Chairman of the JCOS, and quite married.  Many evenings a black Town Car
 would pull up to a woman's town house across the street and CP would get
 out and go in, car would leave.  Car would show up the next morning early
 and collect CP.  Apparently he was just visiting his niece rather than take
 the longer ride home. Yeah, that's the ticket...

 --R

 On 8/7/15 6:21 AM, Tim Crone via Mercedes wrote:

 Once upon a time a tool guy told me Colin Powell does his own work on his
 Volvos.



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Re: [MBZ] This is bad

2015-08-07 Thread WILTON via Mercedes

ATTABOY!

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Meade Dillon via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: Meade Dillon dillonm...@gmail.com
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2015 9:57 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] This is bad



New Moog tie-rod ends installed yesterday evening, they have a lifetime
warranty.

I have the MB special tool (201 589 13 33 00, see picture procedure
46-6177) for removing the outer tie-rod end, works like a champ.  Inner,
not so good.  The tool orientation on the inner end puts the tool nut up
into the engine compartment, so that there is no room to get a wrench on
it.

The nut is 24mm, and the only sockets I have for that are normal depth; a
deep well is required.  I don't own a 24mm deep well socket, so I made a
spacer from a Harbor Freight 32mm socket by cutting off about 10mm (there
is a 32mm counter-hold point on the tool just below the part that the nut
pushes on).  Took me about an hour to cut off that 10mm and grind the edge
flat; this was an impact wrench socket, pretty beefy.  Poor little harbor
freight bench grinder with a cut-off wheel at one end and a course 
grinding

stone at the other, gets the job done but easily bogs down so I don't push
it.

I carefully measure the distance between the ends of the old tie-rod, and
adjust new to match, but of course the steering wheel is now cocked at
about 1:00, so an alignment is forthcoming.

Odd thing was that immediately after the work, at the first start-up for a
test drive, the brake pad sensor light decided to light up and tell me the
front pad(s) are low.  It was winking at first, went off while backing up,
but then after a few yards of forward motion it stayed on steady. Took the
left front wheel off again to make sure I didn't mess that up, couldn't
find anything, and that inner pad does indeed look a little thin and the
disc might be contacting the sensor now.  I may pull the sensor connection
off at that pad and see if that clears the light.  Good excuse to install
Akebono ceramic pads.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Thu, Aug 6, 2015 at 5:28 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:


On 06/08/2015 2:24 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:


Too late for that.  If I make a command decision and just get'er done,
as
long as the result is positive then I don't even need to ask 
forgiveness.


Once I open the can and ask the question, then (I've learned) it's just
best to keep her totally in the loop.

Plan B it is, until a better option comes along.

Lots of rain and lightening here now, may have to move the work into the
garage tonight.

-
Max
Charleston SC


My good wife would not care what I spent or how I got the car fixed so

long as I just did it.
She has been giving me a hard time about the length of time my car has 
sat

in the garage since I had brake issues a while back.

RB


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Re: [MBZ] This is bad

2015-08-07 Thread Curly McLain via Mercedes
2 lb at HF is maybe $6 and well worth it for tie rods and ball 
joints, etc.   Mine is maybe 12 over all, so it is easier to 
maneuver than a claw hammer and has twice the clout.


TO take out the tapered bolts on IH H, they say to whack the side of 
the yoke while applying pressure.  I used a crowbar and the 2 lb LFH 
and they popped right out.  Had to do this 2-3 times recently.


Same technique should work for tie rod ends/BJ.



I always try a few blows with a regular hammer, I think only once have I
gotten lucky.

This tool was about $50 or so, bought back when Rusty was in business, and
I really like it.  Position, tighten up a bit and check to make sure it's
holding, crank it down nice and snug (three or four white knuckles of
torque), hammer the end contacting the threaded portion of the joint and
the joint usually pops right out after a couple hits.

Someday when I've got some time to play (maybe today, depending on weather)
I will try making a perfect box with string around the perimeter of the
car, then measure / adjust the toe-in.  Another way would be to make two
parallel lines with string, then drive the car between and measure/adjust.
Would be so nice to have a pit or a lift for this work.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Fri, Aug 7, 2015 at 10:11 AM, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:


 I've never had the tool.  I just back the nut off to flush, then pop it
 with a short handle 2 pounder.  That is done from the bottom, so no
 clearance problems Clarence.

 If one is really bad, i've used the pickle forks, but both of mine are
 gone now, so I just use the LFH.

 You can adjust toe fairly close with just a tape, the the homemade caliper
 works better.  I've never made the homemade caliper.



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Re: [MBZ] More ac

2015-08-07 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
Well it's supposedly fixed. They sent somebody out. It had some wires that were 
shorting out so it was not reading the thermostat or something. I am not sure 
what wires as I was not there.

Sent from my iPhone

 On Aug 7, 2015, at 8:25 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
 
 Wife is calling home warranty people today to see if they fix it, if not I 
 guess I will dive into it
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Aug 7, 2015, at 8:21 AM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 wrote:
 
 It apparently got stuck on last night, I woke up this morning to 67 in the 
 house. The electric bill is probably not going the be pleasant.
 
 Welded contacts are not all that rare, if it's built with the
 tech that is susceptible to that.  Not all that hard to patch,
 either.  Or to cure.
 
 -- Jim
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] ?

2015-08-07 Thread Dwight Giles via Mercedes
Well Wilton I  would rush to buy that book. Don't think you need to
remember it all to make your point. One of my good friends in my 20's 
30's was a WWII Marine vet who taught me a lot of the BS from them. SOSDD
On Aug 6, 2015 10:57 AM, WILTON via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:

 Well, the absolute biggest one of our time, no, not just of our time, but
 for the nation's entire history, is the whole tragedy of the Vietnam War.

 I'll think about it some more and see if I can remember enough of the BS de
 jour during my 22 years active to compile.  (Some of it is already in
 other stuff I've written.)  I remember thinking and saying at the time
 that there was
 something all the time.  Now, with 40+ years of retrospect, It seems hard
 to separate the general BS into specific events.  So much of the BS de
 jour that seemed so important in our lives at the time seems very petty now.

 In trying to overcome some of the BS de jour, I took great pride (still
 do) in trying to use some common sense in every situation.

 Wilton

 - Original Message - From: Fred Moir via Mercedes 
 mercedes@okiebenz.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Cc: Fred Moir fredh.s...@hotmail.com
 Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2015 4:03 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] ?


 Wilton.I'd pay good money to read such a book!

 Fred Moir.Lynn MA.Diesel preferred.

 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Date: Wed, 5 Aug 2015 14:54:06 -0400
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] ?
 From: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 CC: wilt...@nc.rr.com

 And I understood very well while taking no offense whatever.  ;)

 BTW, Fred, I didn't get along very well with the military BS, either.
 'Wish
 I had taken good notes to write a sizable book on some the unbelievable
 crap
 we all endured.

 Wilton


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[MBZ] OT Jacks

2015-08-07 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes

When I jack the cottage to level it, it makes the 20 ton jacks work.
Last summer I bought a bunch of the big old screw jacks. 6 of them are 
about 2 feet tall and I think I have 6 that are about 1 foot or a bit 
more and thenI have 3 or 4 smaller ones.
The idea with these is that you can leave them in place and give them a 
half turn every couple of weeks and slowly move a building back up where 
it should be without much danger of tearing things apart or breaking glass.
There is an addition on the south side of my house sitting on a grade 
beam on bell piles that has settled and I hope to raise it back up at 
some point. Unfortunately, it has a crawl space that is not easy to get 
into and I may have to cut a hole in the floor in the den in order to 
gain sufficient access. When I built the addition, I left a small 
opening and put a trap door in the floor of a closet. Big enough to get 
in and out but not all that good for hauling in lumber to build a beam 
to jack on. I would also have to cut the stucco on the exterior and find 
and release the bolts or cut them so that the building could be slowly 
lifted off of the grade beam and up where it should be. Then I would 
need to fill the gap and restucco the outside. I would also have to cap 
the poured doorsteps on both the east and west sides as they are part of 
the gradebeam and are down too. Not too obvious now but if the house 
were levelled, then the porches would be very obviously out of whack.
The addition is 10 feet wide and 30 feet long and 2 storeys high. It has 
settled about 2 inches on the outer edge and 2 inches on 10 feet is 
obvious when I walk from the original house into the new part. No 
plumbing or kitchen or bath etc. so not too much to cause other issues. 
I think that the pull on that side of the house has altered the whole 
house as some of the doors in the original house do not stay open on 
their own now etc. I think, that if it was slowly moved back where it 
started, it should sort out most of the issues that have been created by 
the fact that the addition settled. The house was built new in 1981 and 
the addition added in 1987 so none of it is ancient.

That is why I acquired all of these jacks.

RB

On 07/08/2015 10:54 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:

I know, I was embarrassed to have to bring it but I forgot the 20 at camp...
-Curt
   From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
  To: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com; Mercedes Discussion List 
mercedes@okiebenz.com
  Sent: Friday, August 7, 2015 11:35 AM
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] This is bad

A 12 ton jack is a small tool.


RB



On 07/08/2015 10:31 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:

Claw hammers are for driving nails, machinists hammers are for machines... I 
think mine is a 3# hammer but it gets used for basically everything except 
driving nails.
Shoulda seen my father-in-law last week when I was unloading my house jacking 
tools, 5# hammer, 12 ton jack, 4x4 post. If you're going to lift a house you 
don't use small tools.
-Curt
 From: Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
   To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: Curly McLain 126die...@gmail.com
   Sent: Friday, August 7, 2015 11:19 AM
   Subject: Re: [MBZ] This is bad
 
2 lb at HF is maybe $6 and well worth it for tie rods and ball

joints, etc.  Mine is maybe 12 over all, so it is easier to
maneuver than a claw hammer and has twice the clout.

TO take out the tapered bolts on IH H, they say to whack the side of
the yoke while applying pressure.  I used a crowbar and the 2 lb LFH
and they popped right out.  Had to do this 2-3 times recently.

Same technique should work for tie rod ends/BJ.



I always try a few blows with a regular hammer, I think only once have I
gotten lucky.

This tool was about $50 or so, bought back when Rusty was in business, and
I really like it.  Position, tighten up a bit and check to make sure it's
holding, crank it down nice and snug (three or four white knuckles of
torque), hammer the end contacting the threaded portion of the joint and
the joint usually pops right out after a couple hits.

Someday when I've got some time to play (maybe today, depending on weather)
I will try making a perfect box with string around the perimeter of the
car, then measure / adjust the toe-in.  Another way would be to make two
parallel lines with string, then drive the car between and measure/adjust.
Would be so nice to have a pit or a lift for this work.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Fri, Aug 7, 2015 at 10:11 AM, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:


 I've never had the tool.  I just back the nut off to flush, then pop it
 with a short handle 2 pounder.  That is done from the bottom, so no
 clearance problems Clarence.

 If one is really bad, i've used the pickle forks, but both of mine are
 gone now, so I just use the LFH.

 You can adjust toe fairly close with just a tape, the the homemade caliper
 works 

Re: [MBZ] This is bad

2015-08-07 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
Claw hammers are for driving nails, machinists hammers are for machines... I 
think mine is a 3# hammer but it gets used for basically everything except 
driving nails.
Shoulda seen my father-in-law last week when I was unloading my house jacking 
tools, 5# hammer, 12 ton jack, 4x4 post. If you're going to lift a house you 
don't use small tools.
-Curt
  From: Curly McLain via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com 
Cc: Curly McLain 126die...@gmail.com 
 Sent: Friday, August 7, 2015 11:19 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] This is bad
   
2 lb at HF is maybe $6 and well worth it for tie rods and ball 
joints, etc.  Mine is maybe 12 over all, so it is easier to 
maneuver than a claw hammer and has twice the clout.

TO take out the tapered bolts on IH H, they say to whack the side of 
the yoke while applying pressure.  I used a crowbar and the 2 lb LFH 
and they popped right out.  Had to do this 2-3 times recently.

Same technique should work for tie rod ends/BJ.


I always try a few blows with a regular hammer, I think only once have I
gotten lucky.

This tool was about $50 or so, bought back when Rusty was in business, and
I really like it.  Position, tighten up a bit and check to make sure it's
holding, crank it down nice and snug (three or four white knuckles of
torque), hammer the end contacting the threaded portion of the joint and
the joint usually pops right out after a couple hits.

Someday when I've got some time to play (maybe today, depending on weather)
I will try making a perfect box with string around the perimeter of the
car, then measure / adjust the toe-in.  Another way would be to make two
parallel lines with string, then drive the car between and measure/adjust.
Would be so nice to have a pit or a lift for this work.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Fri, Aug 7, 2015 at 10:11 AM, Curly McLain via Mercedes 
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:

  I've never had the tool.  I just back the nut off to flush, then pop it
  with a short handle 2 pounder.  That is done from the bottom, so no
  clearance problems Clarence.

  If one is really bad, i've used the pickle forks, but both of mine are
  gone now, so I just use the LFH.

  You can adjust toe fairly close with just a tape, the the homemade caliper
  works better.  I've never made the homemade caliper.


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Re: [MBZ] OT Jacks

2015-08-07 Thread Curt Raymond via Mercedes
Its hard to judge how hard the jack is working other than how effectively its 
trying to bury itself in the ground. Often when jacking a house like my 
grandmother's that doesn't have a foundation we'll have a tough time since we 
need to dig down to get the jack under somewhere. I've got a couple 2x8 blocks 
to put under it but the footprint is often still too small. 
I learned my lesson on this helping my uncle jack the other side of the wall 
Dad and I raised when he rebuilt the bathroom. We got the jack good and buried 
but then couldn't get it to go back down until we dug all around it to get to 
the release... Now if its sinking I'll put the load back down and crib the base 
better...
-Curt
  From: Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca
 To: Curt Raymond curtlud...@yahoo.com; Mercedes Discussion List 
mercedes@okiebenz.com 
 Sent: Friday, August 7, 2015 3:38 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT Jacks
   
On 07/08/2015 2:26 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:
 Umm. I'd submit that either you don't have a very good jack (you're sure its 
 a 20 ton and not a 2 ton? 2 ton bottle jack is maybe 3 in diameter, 20 ton 
 is more like 6) or you've got a very heavy cottage.
 Maybe 13 years ago the floor in my grandmother's house was sagging really bad 
 under the fridge. We cut a 6x8 hole in the floor and found a broken beam. We 
 sistered 2x8s on to both sides and jacked both broken pieces into place, then 
 ran bolts through the 2x8s and the other piece of beam, put another 2x8 under 
 it and fashioned a post under that. All the jacking for that job was done 
 with a 5 ton bottle jack since we couldn't find the 20. My grandmother's 
 house is quite large, 2 stories with high ceilings, built around 1850 if I 
 remember right. We weren't lifting the whole house on that job but the fridge 
 backed up against an interior wall which had settled a bit more than an inch 
 so we were lifting the interior of the house. You could also see some bow 
 come out of the ceiling. That one we lifted over two days. Had to cordon off 
 the hole in the floor lest somebody forget and stumble into it on the way to 
 get a drink of water in the night.
 -Curt
      

Now, having said that the jacks I was using out at the lake were 20 ton, 
I will admit that I did not try lifting the cottage with a smaller one. 
I have a smaller hydraulic jack - maybe 8 ton that I used to carry 
around in my 68 Chevy pickup because the original jack did not work and 
it is out at the lake since we sold the truck.
I also have a 12 ton in a smaller hydraulic press here in the city that 
I have offered to let my son take home but is still sitting in my garage.

How can you tell I am a pack-rat when it comes to tools???



RB


  
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[MBZ] No more sinking, maybe

2015-08-07 Thread Meade Dillon via Mercedes
FTE master cylinder arrived last night about 8:30 p.m., I had half a day
off so I installed it after lunch.  Did not bench bleed it, just used the
power bleeder and pushed fresh fluid out to all four wheels.

Pedal feel is exactly like before (mushy) but it has always been mushy on
that car.  I may decide to try a different brake booster.  What causes a
mushy brake pedal other than air or bad MC?  Time for new brake hoses at
all four corners?

At first, the pedal would sink, just like with the last MC.  I drove it
around the block and stopped hard a few times, and it got better.  Doesn't
sink now, brakes do their thing just fine, no pulling.  I may get some more
brake fluid and try bleeding it some more.

I think I'll drive this car for a few days and see how it performs.
-
Max
Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] OT Jacks

2015-08-07 Thread Randy Bennell via Mercedes

On 07/08/2015 2:46 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:

Its hard to judge how hard the jack is working other than how effectively its 
trying to bury itself in the ground. Often when jacking a house like my 
grandmother's that doesn't have a foundation we'll have a tough time since we 
need to dig down to get the jack under somewhere. I've got a couple 2x8 blocks 
to put under it but the footprint is often still too small.
I learned my lesson on this helping my uncle jack the other side of the wall 
Dad and I raised when he rebuilt the bathroom. We got the jack good and buried 
but then couldn't get it to go back down until we dug all around it to get to 
the release... Now if its sinking I'll put the load back down and crib the base 
better...
-Curt


Yes, I have been there too.
The garage at the lake is open on one side on the bottom like a carport. 
The other side is closed in etc and there is a 2nd floor above both 
sides used for storage.
The garage is settling some and a few years ago my son and I jacked up 
the outer wall of the carport some. I intended to lift it more the 
following day but it rained hard that night and filled the holes that we 
had dug for the jack full of water. I tried to bail them out so we could 
continue our project but then the ground was so soft we were just 
pushing the jack into the ground. I filled in the holes with gravel that 
had been dug out of them and waited for a better day. Sadly that day has 
yet to come and the garage is still down on that side - now worse than 
ever. I do need to get back to it but now I need to move a bunch of 
stuff out of the way  so I can get to the outer wall -including my boat 
which could be moved as it is sitting on a trailer but is a job because 
I have to move other stuff so I can move the trailer.


RB

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[MBZ] More ac

2015-08-07 Thread Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes
It apparently got stuck on last night, I woke up this morning to 67 in the 
house. The electric bill is probably not going the be pleasant. 

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[MBZ] OT: Burial at Sea

2015-08-07 Thread Mitch Haley via Mercedes
http://www.thesandgram.com/2009/07/28/burial-at-sea-by-ltcol-george-goodson-usmc-ret/

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