VACList-Digest Wednesday, November 28, 2001 Issue 137
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Angled handle rachet screw drivers.
2. Re: Water gauges
3. Re: Water gauges
4. Re: Water gauges
5. Re: Angled handle rachet screw drivers.
6. Furnace Replacement
7. Re: Blinds
8. Re: Blinds
9. Outside skin repair
10. Suburban replacement
11. Re: Furnace Replacement
12. Re: Furnace Replacement
13. 68 Overlander
14. P&S; was 68 Overlander
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 19:14:40 -0600
From: H Spies <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Angled handle rachet screw drivers.
Another tip - Put a dab of valve grinding compound on the screws slot. It will
increase the grip of the blade in the slot.
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 20:20:29 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water gauges
My '73 has the lights on the control panel. A '77 I just saw had the
gauges.
Daisy
"Karl F. Larsen" wrote:
>
> It looks like the type of gauge changed between 68 and 76. My 76
> has meters that indicate the amount of liguid and they are pretty good.
> The fresh water indicator is not very accurate. It reads full when about
> 3/4 full...
>
> --
> Yours Truly,
>
> - Karl F. Larsen, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (505) 524-3303 -
> http://www.qsl.net/k5di/
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 18:54:13 -0700
From: "Bob Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water gauges
Karl, there is a way to set the gauges. The manual for my '76 says to fill
the tank, then using a small screwdriver, adjust the gauge for the correct
reading through a small hole just below it.
You might have to set your initially so they read low, then bring them up to
where they should be.
Bob Hightower
----- Original Message -----
From: "Daisy Welch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2001 6:20 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Water gauges
> My '73 has the lights on the control panel. A '77 I just saw had the
> gauges.
>
> Daisy
>
> "Karl F. Larsen" wrote:
> >
> > It looks like the type of gauge changed between 68 and 76. My 76
> > has meters that indicate the amount of liguid and they are pretty good.
> > The fresh water indicator is not very accurate. It reads full when about
> > 3/4 full...
> >
> > --
> > Yours Truly,
> >
> > - Karl F. Larsen, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (505) 524-3303 -
> > http://www.qsl.net/k5di/
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 20:58:33 -0600
From: "John R. Kleven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Water gauges
Just to add to the gauge calibration, if you have the models that have the
small set screw for calibration, fill them to capacity and then adjust with
a small brass screw driver. I use brass because of my limited experience
calibrating aircraft compasses and avoiding a magnetic field, but I don't
know if it matters here. After you have them perfectly calibrated, drain
the tanks and refill them, check your work, scratch your head as to why they
are off again, recalibrate, drain and fill, go camping, scratch your head
again, open a cold one and decide to live with them not being all that
accurate. Check them every time you walk by because you can't resist, and
you will learn to "gauge" how much is in each tank. Worked for me.
Randy
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 19:48:55 -0800
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Angled handle rachet screw drivers.
Another tip.
If the head is stripped out. Use a Dremel tool to cut a new slot or X on
the top to fit your screwdriver.
-Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: "H Spies" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2001 5:14 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Angled handle rachet screw drivers.
> Another tip - Put a dab of valve grinding compound on the screws slot. It
will
> increase the grip of the blade in the slot.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 02:02:02 -0500
From: Don McKelvay <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Furnace Replacement
Tim,
I was also faced with replacing my Suburban furnace when a hole in the box resulted
from rust. Rather than replace
with a Suburban and based on recommendations of my dealer I replaced it with an
Atwood. Reasons: apparently the
circuit boards for the Atwood are more reliable than the Suburban (I had several
problems with my original board in
my 1976 31 footer). Also Airstream have switched from Suburban and are now using
Atwood which makes getting parts
probably easier down the road.
The only problem - I had to cut a big hole in the side of the trailer for the new
furnace cover and build a support
stand where the old furnace was. Actually it worked our great and you would never
know it had not been done by a
professional. The ducting was simple as both had round connectors.
Don McKelvay
London, Ontario
WBCCI 19432
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 10:03:51 -0500
From: "Robert Gill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Blinds
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Daisy
You wouldn't believe this. I measured my windows for the first time. Went=
to Home Depot and was pricing the blinds just to get a wag on what it wo=
uld cost to do all the windows. I ran into someone I did tile for a few y=
ears ago who happens to have his own blind business now. Told him what I =
was doing and he said he may have some wood blinds in his garage that was=
cut the wrong size. He now has the measurements and is going to check th=
e blinds to see if they will fit. Now my concern/hope is that they will a=
llow me to operate the windows without raising the blinds to get access t=
o the levers.
I'm off work today and supposed to be putting up Christmas lights, but wi=
ll try to slip off to see the blinds myself. He also said he has a couple=
of plantation shutters that I can have if they will fit. Think they may =
look good over the kitchen sink. Thanks for suggesting the blinds, sure =
will beat sewing curtains. I got a needle in a finger from that dang mach=
ine and it hurt worse than hitting it with a hammer.
Bobby
=20
----- Original Message -----
From: Daisy Welch
Sent: Tuesday, November 27, 2001 2:45 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: Blinds
=20
Bob,
I got the blinds at Home Depot, and just cut them off with a saber saw.
They do have ones they will cut for you, but I was still experimenting
and just wanted the cheeeepest ones I could get. I cut them so the slats
would just fit inside the window lifter arms, and shortened them to just
touch the window latches. I ran a piece of shock chord along the bottom
of the shade which goes over the latches and holds the blind against the
wall.
I quess I better get some pix of that.
What i really want is custom made wooden blinds..
The reason I like the blinds is that I can have privacy and light, plus
I can spy on the nieghbors..... And I've made enough curtains in my
life.
Daisy
To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
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When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
------=_NextPart_001_0001_01C177F3.FB42C5A0
Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1"
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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Daisy</DIV> <D=
IV>You wouldn't believe this. I measured my windows for the first time. W=
ent to Home Depot and was pricing the blinds just to get a wag on what it=
would cost to do all the windows. I ran into someone I did tile for=
a few years ago who happens to have his own blind business now. Told him=
what I was doing and he said he may have some wood blinds in his garage =
that was cut the wrong size. He now has the measurements and is=
going to check the blinds to see if they will fit. Now my concern/hope i=
s that they will allow me to operate the windows without raising the blin=
ds to get access to the levers.</DIV> <DIV>I'm off work today and suppose=
d to be putting up Christmas lights, but will try to slip off to see the =
blinds myself. He also said he has a couple of plantation shutters that I=
can have if they will fit. Think they may look good over the kitchen sin=
k. Thanks for suggesting the blinds, sure will beat sewing cur=
tains. I got a needle in a finger from that dang machine and it hurt=
worse than hitting it with a hammer.</DIV> <DIV>Bobby</DIV> <DIV> <=
/DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-=
LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style=
=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV> <DIV style=3D"BA=
CKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From:</B> Daisy Wel=
ch</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, November 2=
7, 2001 2:45 PM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>To:</B> Multiple=
recipients of VACList</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Subject:<=
/B> [VAC] Re: Blinds</DIV> <DIV> </DIV>Bob,<BR><BR>I got the blinds =
at Home Depot, and just cut them off with a saber saw.<BR><BR>They do hav=
e ones they will cut for you, but I was still experimenting<BR>and just w=
anted the cheeeepest ones I could get. I cut them so the slats<BR>would j=
ust fit inside the window lifter arms, and shortened them to just<BR>touc=
h the window latches. I ran a piece of shock chord along the bottom<BR>of=
the shade which goes over the latches and holds the blind against the<BR=
>wall.<BR><BR>I quess I better get some pix of that.<BR><BR>What i really=
want is custom made wooden blinds..<BR><BR>The reason I like the blinds =
is that I can have privacy and light, plus<BR>I can spy on the nieghbors.=
. .... And I've made enough curtains in my<BR>life.<BR><BR>Daisy<BR><BR><BR=
><BR>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to<BR>h=
ttp://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html<BR><BR>When replying to a mes=
sage, please delete all unnecessary original text<BR><BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE=
></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 8
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 09:41:19 -0600
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Blinds
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
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charset="iso-8859-1"
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I installed mini-blinds in my 76 Sovereign and you will need to make =
some adjustments to the blinds to raise and lower the windows. After =
installing the blinds simply mark on each side where the lever to raise =
and lower the window hits the blinds. then cut the couple of inches or =
so off of each side of the slats that will allow you to raise and lower =
the window. Since I have custom curtails as well you don,t see this and =
everything works great.
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Robert Gill=20
Now my concern/hope is that they will allow me to operate the windows =
without raising the blinds to get access to the levers.
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Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.3314.2100" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff=20
style=3D"BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; =
BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; BORDER-TOP: medium none; FONT: 10pt verdana">
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial>I installed mini-blinds in my 76 Sovereign and =
you will=20
need to make some adjustments to the blinds to raise and lower the =
windows.=20
After installing the blinds simply mark on each side where the lever to =
raise=20
and lower the window hits the blinds. then cut the couple of inches or =
so off of=20
each side of the slats that will allow you to raise and lower the =
window. Since=20
I have custom curtails as well you don,t see this and everything works=20
great.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A href=3D"mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]"; =
[EMAIL PROTECTED]>Robert Gill</A>=20
</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> Now my concern/hope is that they will allow me to operate the =
windows=20
without raising the blinds to get access to the levers.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 09:06:48 -0700 (MST)
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Outside skin repair
My 76 23 foot has several places where a learning tower (me)
backed into or ran along side something. There are 2 very bad bumps on the
rear right hand side. This is inside, the back closet area.
I know nothing about fixing the bumps. I'm not sure they can be
fixed. I was told by experianced Airstream owners that each panel will
cost $500 to repair. This adds to $1500 to fix the thing.
Is there anywhere I can get instructions on how to remove an
outside panel, straighten it out, and re-install it? What tools will I
need? I have a good standard home/car toolset. I have a pop rivet set.
What else would I need to buy?
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.qsl.net/k5di/
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 12:11:06 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Suburban replacement
Jim,
If it was me, I'd ask Suburban. After all, they have the blueprints for what
they created during those years. I don't have their email address (if they
have one), but I believe their factory is in Dayton, TN. Why don't you ask
your search engine to find their telephone number?
Worst case scenerio is they'll say all their equipment has been changed over
and they can't accomodate you. If that occurs, ask them to send you the list
of their recommended service centers around the country. That list will
include the addresses and telephone numbers. From there you can do another
search for the email address of those centers closest to you.
Someone has what you want and it's probably gathering dust in a far corner
of their service center. Persistence, persistence, persistence is the bounty
hunters best friend.
It wouldn't surprise me if you learned that some service center has made up
an adaptation kit. Undoubtedly, there's an Airstream dealership with this
problem already solved (a cold weather state). The name of the game is do
the searching legwork while you have the inclination.
The only time I take the Rube Goldberg route is after I've spent an obscene
amount of time searching and investigating and still come up empty handed.
The upside of that is the pump for my creative juices has been well primed.
You'll find one (or two) furnaces to fit your rig - eventually - especially
if both of you work together on this project. Have fun,
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
"The creative mind plays with the objects it loves." Carl Jung
on 11/27/01 7:46 AM, James Greene at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> A very good suggestion, Terry. Do you happen to know where Tim and I can buy
> a new Suburban that is an exact replacement for the one in our older coaches
> with the rectangular ducts. I'd sure like to have one that will slip right
> in like a glove. Oasis RV doesn't have them. All their new Suburbans have
> the round ducts like your '77 coach.
>
> Jim Greene
> ' 68 Tradewind
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Terry Tyler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, November 26, 2001 21:39
> Subject: [VAC] Re: Suburban replacement
>>
>> My brand new Suburban furnace (courtesy of Oasis RV in Tucson) fit in the
>> same place as the old one - like a glove. All the anchoring screws and
>> connecting duct work mated up perfectly.
>>
>> If you end up being introduced to a mongrel furnace as the replacement,
>> why don't ask Oasis for some heads up data? It's far easier to slip in an
>> exact replacement than to muck around with modifications - unless, of course,
>> you are in a panic situation and MUST act right now or yesterday (or you like
>> make-work jobs).
>>
>> Terry
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 09:25:57 -0800
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Furnace Replacement
I did not know about Atwood. I will check into it if I cannot get my
original working.
I was able to get the motor working by fixing the brushes on it last night.
So I am hopeful.
Anyone know what I can do the gas parts for servicing while I have the
furnace out?
-Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don McKelvay" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
. . Rather than replace
> with a Suburban and based on recommendations of my dealer I replaced it
with an Atwood. Reasons: apparently the
> circuit boards for the Atwood are more reliable than the Suburban (
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 12:28:28 -0500
From: Chris Bryant <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Furnace Replacement
At 02:02 AM 11/28/01 -0500, Don McKelvay wrote:
> Rather than replace
>with a Suburban and based on recommendations of my dealer I replaced it with
>an Atwood. Reasons: apparently the
>circuit boards for the Atwood are more reliable than the Suburban (I had
>several problems with my original board in
>my 1976 31 footer).
The circuit boards are actually made by the same company, but...
in the Suburban "NT" series, the circuit board is right next to the
combustion chamber, which makes it very hot- in the Atwood/Hydroflame
models, the board is in the return air stream, which keeps it cool. I have
toyed with the idea of moving the board to a remote location in out
Suburban NT series, which would make it last much better.
>The only problem - I had to cut a big hole in the side of the trailer for
>the new furnace cover and build a support
>stand where the old furnace was. Actually it worked our great and you would
>never know it had not been done by a
>professional. The ducting was simple as both had round connectors.
Did you have to cut a rib, or did you install it vertically? I
have resisted recommending these simply because of the (perceived) amount
of work involved, but they are *much* nicer and easier to work on- you can
actually get to and test every component while the furnace is in and operating.
________
Chris Bryant
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2001 02:18:54 +0800
From: "randy unter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 68 Overlander
Message Number: 23
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 08:30:46 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 68 Overlander
Randy,
Try P&S in Helena OH or Inland RV in CA for the Solordome.
[Scott, I need a new solar dome for my '66 Overlander as well. Where/who is P&S in
Helena and how can they be contacted]
Thanks
Randy Unter
--
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Wed, 28 Nov 2001 14:44:18 -0500
From: "Richard P. Kenan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: P&S; was 68 Overlander
At 02:18 AM 11/29/2001 +0800, you wrote:
>[Scott, I need a new solar dome for my '66 Overlander as well. Where/who
>is P&S in Helena and how can they be contacted]
Randy:
P&S Trailer Service
4702 W. Rt. 6
Helena OH 43435
419-638-6261
I don't see any email or web site information in their Blue Beret
Advertisement. FYI, Walt's RV in Ocala FL has abandoned the factory
plasticoat in favor of the Ruth Bros. (P&S) product. P&S has an excellent
reputation.
- Dick
(5368)
"Think like a man of action. Act like a man of thought."
- Henri Bergson
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #137
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