VACList-Digest Tuesday, November 27, 2001 Issue 136
Today's Topics:
1. Re: sewing curtains.
2. Re: curtains
3. Re: Suburban replacement
4. Re: Suburban Fan Motor
5. "Good to go"
6. Angled handle rachet screw drivers.
7. '62 Globe Trotter wiring
8. Bear screws
9. 68 Overlander
10. Re: Suburban replacement
11. Re: "Good to go"
12. Re: A request from a new member
13. End cap, furnace, monitors, mini blinds
14. Re: Control panel tank levels
15. Re:
16. Re: Control panel tank levels
17. Re: A request from a new member
18. Cork floors
19. Re: Cork floors
20. Re: plumbing / electrical manuals
21. Re: Suburban replacement
22. Water gauges
23. Re: 68 Overlander
24. Re: glue and composites
25. Re: plumbing / electrical manuals
26. Silver Streak
27. Re: Jacks and folding doors
28. Re: Interior Renovation
29. Re: sewing curtains.
30. Re: Jacks and folding doors
31. Re: Blinds
32. Re: "Good to go"
33. Re: Angled handle rachet screw drivers.
34. Re: '62 Globe Trotter wiring
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Message Number: 1
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 19:44:39 -0500
From: "Robert Gill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: sewing curtains.
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Daisy
You have the '73 Ambassador, right?
I haven't measured any off my windows yet, but were you able to buy all t=
he blinds locally or get them custom cut?
Bobby
'73 Ambassador (rear twin)
=20
----- Original Message -----
From: Daisy Welch
Daisy ( who likes her venetian blinds )
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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Daisy</DIV> <D=
IV>You have the '73 Ambassador, right?</DIV> <DIV>I haven't measured any =
off my windows yet, but were you able to buy all the blinds locally or ge=
t them custom cut?</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Bobby</DIV> <DIV>'73 Amba=
ssador (rear twin)</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-R=
IGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px =
solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px"> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original=
Message -----</DIV> <DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial;=
COLOR: black"><B>From:</B> Daisy Welch</DIV><BR>Daisy ( who likes her ve=
netian blinds )<BR><BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 2
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 20:02:34 -0500
From: "Robert Gill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: curtains
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Thanks Betsy
Would be nice to see photos.
I saw a '68 Tradewind that the owners used curtains they bought at a truc=
k stop.
You know, the ones they use to pull across the windshield while napping.
Looked pretty good and they said they fit much better than the ones for a=
class A motohome.
Unfortunately for me the non-sewing type, they required hemming.
But it did give me a good idea for another option on curtains.
Bobby
=20
----- Original Message -----
From: Betsy Mennesson
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2001 11:17 AM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] curtains
=20
To my airstream friends agonizing over the curtain situation. Until you c=
an
find someone to make you the traditonal airstream curtain with the little
tabs (I can sew with the best of them but I prefer the ease and appearanc=
e
of the following)here is an EASY solution. Go to Linens & Things, Target,
Walmart, etc., find the curtain/blind section. Buy yourself the metal spr=
ing
rods that will fit your window.In that same section buy the little rings
with clips (they come in packages of 8 - 12)which will hang from your rod
and clip to fabric. At this point you have two choices. Find some appeali=
ng
cloth napkins (approx 18 x 18) to use as little curtains (in my 61
globetrotter I used 2 for the little kitchen window and 3 for the other
windows)or find some fun fabric and just hem all around them and hang the=
m -
doing this you could hem rectangles.(Rather than using the rings with cli=
ps
you could also turn down about an inch of fabric at the top and hem, then
just slip the spring rod through the space thereby hiding your spring rod=
-
this is what I eventually did once I found the fabric I wanted as
curtains).The only window in my airstream that doesn't accomodate the spr=
ing
rod is the little window on the door so I've used adhesive velcro to atta=
ch
the curtain. I have photo's if you're interested. We have a scanner at wo=
rk
and if some one there can help me I will try to make them available. Sinc=
e
the accordian door to the bathroom is for appearance only (obviously not
sound proof and in my opinion not at all attractive)I also used the sprin=
g
rod and made a long curtain to use as a divider between the main cabin an=
d
the bathroom.I hope this helps you. Betsy
_________________________________________________________________
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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV>Thanks Betsy</=
DIV> <DIV>Would be nice to see photos.</DIV> <DIV>I saw a '68 Tradewind t=
hat the owners used curtains they bought at a truck stop.</DIV> <DIV>You =
know, the ones they use to pull across the windshield while napping.</DIV=
> <DIV>Looked pretty good and they said they fit much better than the one=
s for a class A motohome.</DIV> <DIV>Unfortunately for me the non-sewing =
type, they required hemming.</DIV> <DIV>But it did give me a good idea&nb=
sp;for another option on curtains.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Bobby</DI=
V> <DIV> </DIV> <BLOCKQUOTE style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEF=
T: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0=
px"> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">----- Original Message -----</DIV> <=
DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt Arial; COLOR: black"><B>From=
:</B> Betsy Mennesson</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial"><B>Sent:</B> =
Monday, November 26, 2001 11:17 AM</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt Arial">=
<B>To:</B> Multiple recipients of VACList</DIV> <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt =
Arial"><B>Subject:</B> [VAC] curtains</DIV> <DIV> </DIV>To my airstr=
eam friends agonizing over the curtain situation. Until you can<BR>find s=
omeone to make you the traditonal airstream curtain with the little<BR>ta=
bs (I can sew with the best of them but I prefer the ease and appearance<=
BR>of the following)here is an EASY solution. Go to Linens & Things, =
Target,<BR>Walmart, etc., find the curtain/blind section. Buy yourself th=
e metal spring<BR>rods that will fit your window.In that same section buy=
the little rings<BR>with clips (they come in packages of 8 - 12)which wi=
ll hang from your rod<BR>and clip to fabric. At this point you have two c=
hoices. Find some appealing<BR>cloth napkins (approx 18 x 18) to use as l=
ittle curtains (in my 61<BR>globetrotter I used 2 for the little kitchen =
window and 3 for the other<BR>windows)or find some fun fabric and just he=
m all around them and hang them -<BR>doing this you could hem rectangles.=
(Rather than using the rings with clips<BR>you could also turn down about=
an inch of fabric at the top and hem, then<BR>just slip the spring rod t=
hrough the space thereby hiding your spring rod -<BR>this is what I event=
ually did once I found the fabric I wanted as<BR>curtains).The only windo=
w in my airstream that doesn't accomodate the spring<BR>rod is the little=
window on the door so I've used adhesive velcro to attach<BR>the curtain=
. I have photo's if you're interested. We have a scanner at work<BR>and i=
f some one there can help me I will try to make them available. Since<BR>=
the accordian door to the bathroom is for appearance only (obviously not<=
BR>sound proof and in my opinion not at all attractive)I also used the sp=
ring<BR>rod and made a long curtain to use as a divider between the main =
cabin and<BR>the bathroom.I hope this helps you. Betsy<BR><BR>___________=
______________________________________________________<BR>Get your FREE d=
ownload of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com/intl.asp<BR><BR><BR><B=
R><BR>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to<BR>=
http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html<BR><BR>When replying to a me=
ssage, please delete all unnecessary original text<BR><BR><BR></BLOCKQUOT=
E></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 3
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 21:39:52 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Suburban replacement
on 11/26/01 1:53 AM, Tim Shephard at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> If I end of having or deciding to replace my orginal furnace. How do the
> newer style with side round vents get routed to the older rectagular ducts?
>
> Currently my ducts come out the sides of the original furnace. But the
> newer styles seem to use a round duct.
>
Tim,
My brand new Suburban furnace (courtesy of Oasis RV in Tucson) fit in the
same place as the old one - like a glove. All the anchoring screws and
connecting duct work mated up perfectly.
If you end up being introduced to a mongrel furnace as the replacement, why
don't ask Oasis for some heads up data? It's far easier to slip in an exact
replacement than to muck around with modifications - unless, of course, you
are in a panic situation and MUST act right now or yesterday (or you like
make-work jobs).
Terry
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 21:39:54 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Suburban Fan Motor
on 11/25/01 6:47 PM, Tim Shephard at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Thanks for the idea Terry.
>
> Any idea what the cost was and model of your replacement?
>
Yes, I have something better than an idea. I have the invoice. It was
$511.05 installed. It is a Model NT30SP with a one year warranty and an
optional 5 year warranty on the heat exchanger ($22).
Keep in mind, we live in our Airstream except for a few months each year
when we're "guests" at "our" NYS property. As a result, I don't "nickel and
dime" my way when it comes to mechanical devices for daily living conditions
associated with seasonal changes. Every year our furnace gets a good workout
as does our air conditioner.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
"Who buys has need of two eyes, but one's enough to sell the stuff."
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 21:39:54 -0500
From: Terry Tyler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: "Good to go"
Hi VAC guys and gals,
When I turned on our air conditioner in our 1977 31' Airstream, the blower
worked "just like New York" on all three settings (low, medium, high). My
hopes began to rise.
When I turned on the thermostat for cooling, the compressor was silent and
no cooling occurred. My comment was, "Isn't this dandy? Our first hot day
with high humidity and there will be more perspiration before there is
less."
Being from the school of repair whose philosophy includes the "just
noticeable difference," I removed the thermostat from the wall and cleaned
it (odorless mineral spirits), cleaned the three connectors where it mated
with the wall housing and then, reassembled it carefully. Turned it on ....
Bingo! All systems were "good to go" and we're back in business with our 25
year old Armstrong air conditioner with heat strip. I love it when such
successes occur.
My minimalist attitude toward fixing things by changing them enough to make
the just noticeable difference so they work again - racked up more points
today. Now I'm enjoying a cool one, smiling, combing my hair (what hair?)
and humming a tune.
Terry
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
"With money in your pocket, you are wise, and you are handsome, and you sing
well too." "Believe that one and I'll tell you another one."
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 10:36:13 -0500
From: Jim Bounds <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Angled handle rachet screw drivers.
I have used many types of screw drivers, even tried some of those "info
mertial" things, I find the best screw driver is the Snap -on big handled
rachet style unit with the tip storage in the head.
I have one of their high dollar angled handle ones and find that when
trying to break free a rusted or troublesome screw that keeping the tip
straight in the slots yield the best results. I have a hard time keeping
the angled handle types straight in the head, there is no way to apply
force straight down with those things. Especially with Phillips screws,
this "keep it straight" mentality works well.
Pounding an old tip in will help open the grooves up but I take a pick tool
and scratch out the grooves to get the old "goopenpuky" out before I put
the tip in. I then insert the good tip in straight and give the
screwdriver a light tap to be sure it is down as far as it will go and
straight in the hole. The tap will also act as a shock to the bite the
screw has on the hole and help to loosen it up. Cheap bit are dangerous if
they splinter or fail when you rely on them the most. "The most dangerous
knife is a dull one".
I do use the angled rachet driver when I don't need to apply down force but
working on old stuff force is many times used. It's good for putting
screws back in though.
Next time you see a Snap-on truck pass by, flag him down and ask him to
show you his big handled rachet screw driver with the tips in the handle, I
think you will like it alote. I cannot sleep if I don't know where mine is!
Jim Bounds
----------------------------
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 22:41:14 -0600
From: "Bob Harper" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: '62 Globe Trotter wiring
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Hi-
Been away from my '62 GT overhaul for quite a while, but am back at it =
and have decided to replace the majority of the wiring (since it's =
completely gutted), particularly the 110v. I recall seeing a general =
routing diagram for something close to this vintage, but can't seem to =
find it in the mountain of information I've collected. Anyone know =
where to find this? Exact year / length probably not critical.
I'm hoping to use the old wiring to pull new wiring into position in a =
couple of places, but if the line has a "T" in it, I'd just be balling =
up the insulation between the skins. With any luck they didn't do any =
"T's" other than in junction boxes which are easily located. My =
original breaker box (no Univolt) is just aft of the door (curbside, =
under gaucho, on floor), and I will not be using that box nor that =
location. =20
Any tips appreciated.
Bob Harper
'62 Globe Trotter in SC
hereafter aka
BH62GT/SC
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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hi-</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Been away from my '62 GT overhaul =
for quite a=20
while, but am back at it and have decided to replace the majority of the =
wiring=20
(since it's completely gutted), particularly the 110v. I recall =
seeing a=20
general routing diagram for something close to this vintage, but can't =
seem to=20
find it in the mountain of information I've collected. Anyone know =
where=20
to find this? Exact year / length probably not =
critical.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I'm hoping to use the old wiring to =
pull new=20
wiring into position in a couple of places, but if the line has a =
"T"=20
in it, I'd just be balling up the insulation between the skins. =
With any=20
luck they didn't do any "T's" other than in junction boxes =
which are=20
easily located. My original breaker box (no Univolt) is just aft =
of the=20
door (curbside, under gaucho, on floor), and I will not be using that =
box nor=20
that location. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Any tips appreciated.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Bob Harper</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>'62 Globe Trotter in SC</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT> </DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>hereafter aka</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>BH62GT/SC</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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Message Number: 8
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 21:46:22 -0600
From: John Schubert <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Bear screws
> This afternoon I start on taking the vanity out of the bath in order
>> to clear the floor for a plywood patch job. Those 3" wood screws that
>> have not been turned in 28 years are a bear. I absolutely could not
>> get 2 of them to budge.
>>
>> What to do? Bigger screwdriver? Hack saw blade underneath? Rip it out
>> and fix the stile latter? Drill them out?
Put a dab of valve grinding compound on the tip of the screwdriver for a
better grip on the screw, works wonders.
John
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 22:01:31 -0600
From: "John R. Kleven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 68 Overlander
I was going to sell it but now I want to tinker again. Can anyone point me
toward a few items? I need a 14 X 26 solordome, Dometic refrigerator door
(22 1/2 X 33 1/4) and a TV attenea.
Also, is the fresh water cap supposed to come off or is it pressurized and
built to stay on. I tried to unscrew it but remember something about older
pressurized systems. I do have a water pump that works and actually have
two valves for dumping gray and black I thought prior to the early
seventies there was only a black tank, and while I don't think there are two
tanks, maybe the previous owner bypassed the holding tank for the bathroom
sink, shower and kitchen sink.
Thanks,
Randy
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 19:51:30 -0800
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Suburban replacement
I would love to have a direct drop in replacement. If I could find one. My
model is a NT22A.
Does anyone know of a direct replacement?
-Tim
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Tyler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> My brand new Suburban furnace (courtesy of Oasis RV in Tucson) fit in the
> same place as the old one - like a glove. All the anchoring screws and
> connecting duct work mated up perfectly.
>
> If you end up being introduced to a mongrel furnace as the replacement,
why
> don't ask Oasis for some heads up data? It's far easier to slip in an
exact
> replacement than to muck around with modifications - unless, of course,
you
> are in a panic situation and MUST act right now or yesterday (or you like
> make-work jobs).
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 22:07:08 -0600
From: "John R. Kleven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: "Good to go"
The original Armstrong on the 76 I just sold worked like a champ too. I
cleaned the heck out of it and it was happy. When I changed the intake
filters, it kissed me and rejoiced with cold air!
Randy
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 20:56:44 -0700
From: Gerald or Donna Shippen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: A request from a new member
Hello and welcome Dave and wife Susan, When I brought home our 1962
Globetrotter it had a broken rear window, however the frame was in tact, so
I simply went to the glass shop and had piece of regular window glass cut
then refitted it into the frame. So far so good! Perhaps you can get the
door latches at you local hardware store.
Just curious do you ferry the A/S across to your island?
Best regards,
Gerald
62 Globetrotter (in restoration)
66 Overlander (in mothballs for the winter)
At 01:19 PM 11/26/01 -0500, you wrote:
>Hello. My name is Dave Mills and I live on a small island just off the
>coast of Maine. Just retired from a clinical psychology practice, my wife,
>Susan, and I bought a 1967 Globetrotter last spring and in August started a
>9600 mile trip from here to Banff and Glacier and back with our two Border
>Collies. We started incredibly naive and returned just a little less so but
>had a wonderful time.
>
>However, we returned put together in part with duct tape and need to find a
>source for some parts for our old guy named "Piccolo". Primarily, we need a
>back window as ours while in South Dakota one night started in a high wind
>to vibrate while we were camped and then completely shattered...I was not
>wise enough to save the three metal hooks from the debris so we need the
>whole deal. Also, I need some latches for storage compartments inside the
>AS both the cabinets just below ceiling level as well as the floor
>compartments.
>
>Can anyone point me in the right direction to get the Globetrotter back
>together? Thanks, Dave
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 11:19:02 -0500
From: Jim Bounds <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: End cap, furnace, monitors, mini blinds
Sorry to post like this but I'm having trouble following threads using this
format. I'll figure out a way soon, but here are thoughts on several posts.
END CAPS: I was warned that the fiberglass front & rear caps on the
Airstreams cracked from the stresses of being the weakest member, when
pressures are put on the body, something has to get and the end caps are
weaker than the aluminum rivets.
I have the same trouble with the front & rear ABS plastic end caps in the
GMC motorhomes I work on. The cap is totally visible so any repair needs
to be both structurally as well as cosmetically done. There is very little
you can do, especially in your garage, to match the texture and finish of
the areas around the crack. Any cosmetic repair would surely reopen the
first good bump you hit. You can cover over the crack and physically hold
the 2 edges together but it will probably look like something off of
Franensteins head!
When faced with such a problem, I cover up the physical repair with the
cosmetic repair. I patch over or plastic weld the crack to a state of
reliable strength, then cover the entire panel with some material
(headliner material, vinyl, stretchable pile carpet, felt, cloth, or some
other covering. While this may not be an original look, it will solve both
problems. My Tradewind does not have any cracks up there (knock on
aluminum) but if it did I think I would cover the cap with a short pile
stretchable carpet.
FURNACE: The biggest trouble I have in replacing a furnace IS getting past
the cutting of new holes. The inlet & exh. holes must be straight so you
cannot bend the pipes to fit the original holes. Very few new furnaces
have holes that line up with old holes. I am not sure about the Airstream
specific units but in general you will find this to be true. Hope you find
something that will work but do not mod the pipes, good luck.
MONITOR SYSTEMS: I have found that the resistance levels the older "well
nut" style monitor circuits use is effected by minerals in the water too
much. As another person pointed out, at best they are a unreliable
system. Do not expect well nut systems to be dead accurate. There are too
many factors that influence their operation. If you can tell when the
level in the tanks are getting high, empty them. Don't worry if they are
1/2 or 3/4 full, get rid of that stuff!
I use a well nut monitor system that many of the big manufacturers use and
in general I think it works well. I'm not going to bet my pink slip on it
though! I don't know where these original systems operate but it needs to
be somewhere in the meg ohm range to be more reliable. As I get more
familiar with the systems, there may be something that could be substituted
to work better.
MINI BLINDS: If you use a vertical valence to frame the sides of the
blinds, you can get privacy and style. I upholster the valences on the
inside and out (outside for style, inside to stop rattling) Bali makes a
1/2 "micro mini" blind that is very tasteful as well as small enough to not
intrude into the living area. Check with a local bland shop for color samples.
You cannot, of course, use mini blinds on the curved windows but you may be
able to use vertical style blinds in their place. I haven't done it yet
but plan to look into it when I get to that point. I'll let you know how
it goes.
I'm going to pick up a 75 Airstream motorhome to restore along with the 63
Tradewind trailer I have now. I've gotten pretty excited about working
with these units, I'll let you know how things go.
Jim Bounds
---------------------------
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 20:21:31 -0800 (PST)
From: John Leggett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Control panel tank levels
Gerald-
This tank level sensor arrangement is vintage 1968.
(An RV supply place told me they used to be marketed
by Newmark). The sensors are comprised of a long
cylindrical length of solid plastic, about the
diameter of a pencil, with several exposed
silver-colored solid wires strapped to the perimeter
and running down the length of this plastic probe.
The hot wire runs the full length, as does the wire
for "near empty" light. The 1/4 full sensor wire is
slightly shorter, and the 1/2 full sensor wire the
shortest. I have checked all of these wires with a
meter and there is no evidence of any of the wires
being shorted to each other; they all seem to register
about the same resistance.
The transitors are equally vintage - marked "WEC-3" on
the perimeter - they are small button-shaped
transistors with a white band around the perimeter. I
am assuming they are NPN just from their application
but I don't know how to test that without removing
them from the circuit board. The circuit board as
well as the panel itself was made up by Eltop of
Anaheim, CA.
So now you know as much as I do.
Just because I'm the type that hates to let things
like this go unresolved, do you have any other
suggestions for testing or repairing this cicuit so I
can get the light show to work, even if its accuracy
is dubious at best?
John
68 Safari
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 10:44:19 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Control panel tank levels
I take it that the sensors are some sort of grid or
mesh that is
supposed to be not conductive when dry, and conducting
when wet. sounds
to me as if the insulation of that grid is dirty or
waterlogged or
fouled with lime. Might be the wire insulation that is
waterlogged. The
resistor is there to prevent frying the transistors
when the sensors
are
solidly shorted.
It is possible that the transistors have developed
internal leakage
collector to base, but that's less likely, especially
with NPN silicon
transistors. I'd bet that the transistors are similar
to 2N2222 and
there are similar transistors available cheaply in
plastic packages.
But
I don't think changing the transistors without drying
the sensor
substrates will make the water level indicator work.
Adding resistors from base to emitter on each
transistor may make the
transistors less sensitive to leakage, but less
sensitive to water
also.
Try 4.7k to 10K.
It would take some drilling, but a few liquid level
switches such as
shown on page 391 of McMaster-Carr catalog 107 (on
line) would be more
reliable indicators than humidity sensor plates.
Another alternative would be the plastic pipe "gauge
glass", highly
reliable.
Another alternative would be a low pressure gauge
plumbed to the bottom
of the tank and calibrated in inches of water, such as
McMaster-Carr
4026K15 - 15" of water scale (page 467). It probably
would need to be
mounted at tank bottom level. I don't know that it
would survive water
sloshing on the road.
Gerald J.
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------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 22:38:52 -0600
From: GeorgeHumphrey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
Hi,
Not much of a duker, just mainly street fighter. hi hi I was just
mentioning that since the Airstream has always been built like an aircraft,
the aircraft are changing. That means that today's and tomorrow's
Airstreams may change and we may need to embrace the new technology.
Composites and glue may be the wave of the future VAC trailers. My '89 may
not be a VAC streamer, but it is built the same, rivets and vulcuum or
whatever. ;-)
George
At 10:19 PM 11/22/01 EST, you wrote:
>GEORGE, let's DUKE IT OUT!! Rivets THAT ARE GLUED would be indeed FINE for
a 89 OWNER.....this is the VAC, not the NEWBIE board!!
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
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>
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>
------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 23:16:34 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Control panel tank levels
I don't find the WEC-3 in my ECG manual. I didn't dig for a really old
replacement manual though.
An NPN transistor will have the base 0.6 volts positive from ground
(emitter) when its conducting. A darlington NPN transistor's base will
be 1.2 volts positive from ground. If the associated light goes out when
you check the base voltage, it fits into my leakage scenario.
Like I said before, I'd hook a resistor from each base to ground.
Probably something like 4.7K to 10K. That would absorb a lot of leakage,
but it would also reduce the sensitivity of the transistor to the
conductivity of the liquid.
>From early experiences with germanium transistors, I tend to use lower
value resistors between base and emitter when I want a transistor to
really be turned off for all environmental conditions. Something like
1.5K. That would be too low for these sensors, I expect. 10K might be
too low, but there's some value of resistor that can be connected from
base to emitter that will absorb the excess leakage, and still allow
water to make the sensors turn on the lights.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2001 22:59:28 -0700
From: "Terry O'Neill" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: A request from a new member
Hi Dave
Welcome to the list. We had a similar but reverse trip to yours this summer.
Calgary to Niagara Falls and Southern Ohio to pick up our 60 Overlander.
Great trip but South Dakota hit us with a whopper of a hail storm.
Overlander has since been sold and we now have a 66 TradeWind.
I think some of your parts are at http://www.inlandrv.com/parts/
#18688 (roof locker latch)
#91465 (window clips)
Good Luck
Terry O'Neill
Calgary
66 Trade-Wind Double
WBCCI 4786
VAC
http://pages.sprint.ca/Streamsite/main.html
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Mills" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2001 11:19 AM
Subject: [VAC] A request from a new member
> Hello. My name is Dave Mills and I live on a small island just off the
> coast of Maine. Just retired from a clinical psychology practice, my
wife,
> Susan, and I bought a 1967 Globetrotter last spring and in August started
a
> 9600 mile trip from here to Banff and Glacier and back with our two Border
> Collies. We started incredibly naive and returned just a little less so
but
> had a wonderful time.
>
> However, we returned put together in part with duct tape and need to find
a
> source for some parts for our old guy named "Piccolo". Primarily, we need
a
> back window as ours while in South Dakota one night started in a high wind
> to vibrate while we were camped and then completely shattered...I was not
> wise enough to save the three metal hooks from the debris so we need the
> whole deal. Also, I need some latches for storage compartments inside the
> AS both the cabinets just below ceiling level as well as the floor
> compartments.
>
> Can anyone point me in the right direction to get the Globetrotter back
> together? Thanks, Dave
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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>
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>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 04:39:02 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Cork floors
I just read an article about cork floors that might be of interest here. It
was either here or on the VAC list that someone was inquiring about cork
recently.
You can read the article or instant-download it at: www.dulley.com
type cork flooring on the search option - I think if was update #981.
This is the site of Nationally syndicated newspaper columist James Dulley who
is an "avid do-it-yourselfer' environmentalist.
As to the cork floors - he really praises them - for warmth, insulation etc.
One thing I learned in his column is that cork is an earth-friendly flooring
mat'l. The bark is peeled from cork oak trees and is actually good for the
trees -- keeps them strong and growing.
Makes me wish I needed some flooring.
-Norma
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 03:18:12 -0800 (PST)
From: Toby Folwick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Cork floors
another source for earth-friendly refurbishing advice:
http://www.naturalhomemag.com
I recently told a friend that I was restoring a
vintage Airstream, but that I was going to use a
different wood (veneer) for the cabinets, install cork
flooring, an on-demand water heater and solar panels
to make it "greener." He corrected me and said,
you're not "restoring," you're "refurbishing."
I said, "so be it." I'm putting some pretty high tech
electronics (for 1960) inside too - it's called a
"radio."
(c:
Toby
=====
"We were all busy loving music, but moreover wanting music to love us...and for songs
to love being around us..."
http://www.tobyfolwick.com
Minneapolis, MN
__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 03:23:48 -0800 (PST)
From: Toby Folwick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: plumbing / electrical manuals
okay - I'm looking for a short, and progressively more
in depth (easy -> hard) listing of books I can study
over the winter in my "home schooling for Airstream
Restoration."
I'm a bright enough guy to adapt household
do-it-yourself books to the travel trailer application
- so those of you who have learned plumbing or
electrical work from a book (or solar) do you have
any recommendations? it snowed today in MN, so I'm
dusting off the library card.
=====
"We were all busy loving music, but moreover wanting music to love us...and for songs
to love being around us..."
http://www.tobyfolwick.com
Minneapolis, MN
__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 07:46:43 -0500
From: "James Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Suburban replacement
A very good suggestion, Terry. Do you happen to know where Tim and I can buy
a new Suburban that is an exact replacement for the one in our older coaches
with the rectangular ducts. I'd sure like to have one that will slip right
in like a glove. Oasis RV doesn't have them. All their new Suburbans have
the round ducts like your '77 coach.
Jim Greene
' 68 Tradewind
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Tyler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2001 21:39
Subject: [VAC] Re: Suburban replacement
>
> My brand new Suburban furnace (courtesy of Oasis RV in Tucson) fit in the
> same place as the old one - like a glove. All the anchoring screws and
> connecting duct work mated up perfectly.
>
> If you end up being introduced to a mongrel furnace as the replacement,
why
> don't ask Oasis for some heads up data? It's far easier to slip in an
exact
> replacement than to muck around with modifications - unless, of course,
you
> are in a panic situation and MUST act right now or yesterday (or you like
> make-work jobs).
>
> Terry
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 06:10:22 -0700 (MST)
From: "Karl F. Larsen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Water gauges
It looks like the type of gauge changed between 68 and 76. My 76
has meters that indicate the amount of liguid and they are pretty good.
The fresh water indicator is not very accurate. It reads full when about
3/4 full...
--
Yours Truly,
- Karl F. Larsen, [EMAIL PROTECTED] (505) 524-3303 -
http://www.qsl.net/k5di/
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 08:30:46 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 68 Overlander
Randy,
Try P&S in Helena OH or Inland RV in CA for the Solordome.
By '68 the water tank was no longer pressurized. I am assuming that your cap
would come off to fill the tank. At the very least it should function as a
vent for the tank.
You are right in that there should not be both black and wash water
tanks...unless a previous owner added the wash water tank, which he may have
since there are two valves. An easy way to tell is to close the valve then
put some water down a drain. How much water do you add before it backs up
somewhere?
Scott
1960 Overlander
----- Original Message -----
From: "John R. Kleven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 26, 2001 11:01 PM
Subject: [VAC] 68 Overlander
> I was going to sell it but now I want to tinker again. Can anyone point
me
> toward a few items? I need a 14 X 26 solordome, Dometic refrigerator door
> (22 1/2 X 33 1/4) and a TV attenea.
> Also, is the fresh water cap supposed to come off or is it pressurized and
> built to stay on. I tried to unscrew it but remember something about
older
> pressurized systems. I do have a water pump that works and actually have
> two valves for dumping gray and black I thought prior to the early
> seventies there was only a black tank, and while I don't think there are
two
> tanks, maybe the previous owner bypassed the holding tank for the bathroom
> sink, shower and kitchen sink.
> Thanks,
> Randy
------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 08:35:35 -0500
From: Chris Elliott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: glue and composites
That tail section did`nt seem to work out too well on flight 587 in Rockaway
...
Chris
GeorgeHumphrey wrote:
>
>
> since the Airstream has always been built like an aircraft,
> the aircraft are changing. That means that today's and tomorrow's
> Airstreams may change and we may need to embrace the new technology.
> Composites and glue may be the wave of the future VAC trailers
>
>
>
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 09:39:51 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: plumbing / electrical manuals
Livingston on RV maintenance.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 10:36:39 -0600
From: "Keith and Jean Williams" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Silver Streak
While out driving Sunday saw a big silver travel trailer with a For Sale
sign by the side of the road. Naturally we stopped to take a look.
Looked a lot like an Airstream but it is a different animal. Turned out to
be a 1976 Silver Streak - I would guess 30-32 feet. The exterior seemed to
be in great shape, better than most of the older Airstreams I have seen.
The fellow I talked with is selling it for the owner who has had it since
new. He had installed new tires and brakes before bringing it back to
Illinois from Arizona this past summer. We took a quick tour. The interior
looked good, seemed original and well taken care of. Dark colored paneling
that seemed very well built. The other fittings, appliances, trim,
hardware, etc. seemed to me to be better than the 70's Airstreams I have
seen and, naturally, WAY better than our Argosy. According to the fellow
selling it, Silver Streaks were a relatively low volume "made to order"
trailer.
The person selling it said that he believes the systems are all good and
wanted me to plug it into our Tahoe on the spot. I saw some campground
receipts from this summer so it has been in use recently. He is asking
$6,000 (firm he said.....but its getting colder here). I have no idea if
that's a fair price or if everything really works.
Its too big for us, but I thought someone on the list might be interested.
Let me know off list and I'll pass along more of what I remember and/or get
you in touch with the seller.
Keith W.
'73 Argosy 22
Moline, IL
------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 12:36:26 -0600
From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Jacks and folding doors
Im looking for a set for my 71' 31ft sovereign as well!
Gina
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [VAC] Re: Jacks and folding doors
>Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 20:00:40 EST
>
>Hello VAC members,
>
>Does anyone know where to go for a replacement for the folding doors that
>them. I'd love to find a wood type for the replacement.
>
>Also I'd love to see what the original jacks looked like or at least what
>people recommend to use as a replacement.
>
>Thanks, Stuart Resor
>
>* STUART MACARTHUR RESOR * ARCHITECT * 1268 BLUE SKY DRIVE * CARDIFF BY
>THE
>SEA * CALIFORNIA * 92007-1005 * 760-753-8022 * FAX: 760-753-8058 *
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Message Number: 28
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 12:40:48 -0600
From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Interior Renovation
I would check with the Center of Disease control.It is when the dried poop
is disturbed such as sweeping or vacumning that people become ill.
gina
>From: "T. Byrd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [VAC] Interior Renovation
>Date: Sat, 24 Nov 2001 19:36:56 -0700
>
>Hi all,
>
>We're considering for purchase a 1965 Overlander that the owner says is
>'filthy with rodents' between the walls. Due to the dangers associated
>with Hantavirus, we would tear out the interior (which is in excellent
>condition), clean up the mess, replace the insulation, fix any wiring or
>plumbing problems, and then put it all back together again. We're
>pretty handy, but we'd like to know if this can be done by mere
>mortals? Are there special tools or techniques required to remove the
>interior? We can't afford to have this done professionally, so either we
>have to do it ourselves, or wait for another Overlander to surface. I've
>checked the archives on Tom Patterson's site, but so far, have been
>unable to find specifics on this type of job. My apologies if I've
>missed it, and posed a question that has already been answered.
>
>Thanks,
>Ted
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
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>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 29
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 14:09:06 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: sewing curtains.
Oh Polly, how I laughed ! is there really such a thing as a Singer
Godzilla ?
Daisy
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> Now you all are talking about my other love, sewing machines. I currently
> have over 30, mostly over 50 years old.
> 1874 Weed FF Treadle
> 1893 Singer VS2/27 Treadle
> 1927 Singer 99 Handcrank
> 1950 Necchi BF Treadle
> 1948 Singer 201K Handcrank
> 1951 Singer Godzilla 128 HC
> Davis VF Treadle
> Singer 9W Treadle
> Singer 66 parlor treadle
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 30
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 14:02:47 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Jacks and folding doors
Stuart,
Don't know if they came with my '60 or if they were purchased separately,
but my stabilizer jacks are made by Reese. They are not attached to the
trailer, are pyramidal in shape and made of aluminum. Similar ones are
available at RV stores.
Scott
1960 Overlander
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, November 24, 2001 8:00 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Jacks and folding doors
> Hello VAC members,
SNIP------------
> Also I'd love to see what the original jacks looked like or at least what
> people recommend to use as a replacement.
>
> Thanks, Stuart Resor
------------------------------
Message Number: 31
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 14:38:42 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Blinds
Bob,
I got the blinds at Home Depot, and just cut them off with a saber saw.
They do have ones they will cut for you, but I was still experimenting
and just wanted the cheeeepest ones I could get. I cut them so the slats
would just fit inside the window lifter arms, and shortened them to just
touch the window latches. I ran a piece of shock chord along the bottom
of the shade which goes over the latches and holds the blind against the
wall.
I quess I better get some pix of that.
What i really want is custom made wooden blinds..
The reason I like the blinds is that I can have privacy and light, plus
I can spy on the nieghbors..... And I've made enough curtains in my
life.
Daisy
------------------------------
Message Number: 32
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 14:43:27 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: "Good to go"
Yeah, Terry, My first fixit rule is clean and lubricate. Many "miracles
" later, some folks think I am quite the Miss Fixit.
Daisy ( probably learned that with sewing machines)
Terry Tyler wrote:
>
> Being from the school of repair whose philosophy includes the "just
> noticeable difference," I removed the thermostat from the wall and cleaned
> it (odorless mineral spirits), cleaned the three connectors where it mated
> with the wall housing and then, reassembled it carefully. Turned it on ....
>
> Bingo! All systems were "good to go" and we're back in business with our 25
> year old Armstrong air conditioner with heat strip.
------------------------------
Message Number: 33
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 14:46:12 -0500
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Angled handle rachet screw drivers.
good Stuff, Jim. I know a lot of folks who sleep with their Snap-On
tools.......
Daisy
Jim Bounds wrote:
>
> Next time you see a Snap-on truck pass by, flag him down and ask him to
> show you his big handled rachet screw driver with the tips in the handle, I
> think you will like it alote. I cannot sleep if I don't know where mine is!
>
> Jim Bounds
> ----------------------------
------------------------------
Message Number: 34
Date: Tue, 27 Nov 2001 13:33:20 -0700
From: Gerald or Donna Shippen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: '62 Globe Trotter wiring
Been away from my '62 GT overhaul for quite a while....
Bob, While I have not pulled wiring up through the walls, I would be very
careful doing so as one could crease the outer skin from the inside. The
reason I say this is I have taken dents and creases out of the outer skin by
burnishing on the interior of the wall. FYI, GAS
------------------------------
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