VACList-Digest Wednesday, December 12, 2001 Issue 148
Today's Topics:
1. Re:
2. Re: Jacks & wheel blocks
3. Re: WANTED: $2750 for your Airstream
4. Re: How to remove stove cover?
5. Re:
6. Re: transmission designs
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Message Number: 1
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 21:07:31 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re:
Hello!
We've recently purchased a set of four original Airstream jacks (which
hopefully will arrive shortly). In reading the owner's manual it states that
you should "never put a great deal of pressure (load) on them when they are
placed under the rear bumper. When changing a tire or leveling on rough
terrain always place the jack under the main frame which is located 15"
inbound from the outside edge of the trailer and 4" to the rear of the wheel
well".
If you use the tounge jack at the front and two small jacks as
described...what are the other two jacks for and where would you put them?!
What is the ideal set of blocks and what would they look like? What kind of
wood? What is the ideal wheel block for our tandem wheels?
Thanks, Stuart & Bonnie.
* STUART MACARTHUR RESOR * ARCHITECT * 1268 BLUE SKY DRIVE * CARDIFF BY THE
SEA * CALIFORNIA * 92007-1005 * 760-753-8022 * FAX: 760-753-8058 *
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 21:56:51 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Jacks & wheel blocks
The stabilizer jacks can be used any time you are parked. They are put at
the rear bumper and at the front "corners" of the trailer where the "A"
frame leaves the belly pan to stabilize the trailer. They normally are not
used to change a tire, but they can be. Tandem axle trailer tire changing is
much easier done by just backing/pulling onto a thick block with the good
axle, leaving the axle with the flat tire in the air.
If you wish to use blocks under the stabilizer jacks they should match the
footprint of the jack. Blocks for under the tires should be wide enough that
the complete tire tread rests upon the block. For tandem axles there is a
item you can buy that fits between the tires eliminating the need for wheel
chocks. But before you make blocks for all the jacks of your trailer you
should know that as a saftey backup there should be some trailer to ground
connection other than the electric cord. One of the jacks without a block
will suffice.
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2001 9:07 PM
Subject: [VAC] Re:
> Hello!
>
> We've recently purchased a set of four original Airstream jacks (which
> hopefully will arrive shortly). In reading the owner's manual it states
that
> you should "never put a great deal of pressure (load) on them when they
are
> placed under the rear bumper. When changing a tire or leveling on rough
> terrain always place the jack under the main frame which is located 15"
> inbound from the outside edge of the trailer and 4" to the rear of the
wheel
> well".
>
> If you use the tounge jack at the front and two small jacks as
> described...what are the other two jacks for and where would you put
them?!
>
>
> What is the ideal set of blocks and what would they look like? What kind
of
> wood? What is the ideal wheel block for our tandem wheels?
>
> Thanks, Stuart & Bonnie.
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 21:58:39 -0500
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: WANTED: $2750 for your Airstream
Please take this offlist! This is not the place for a "for profit"
transaction.
Monitor Scott
------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2001 21:59:53 -0800
From: "Tim Shephard" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: How to remove stove cover?
Thanks, I'll give it a try.
-Tim
> on 12/10/01 2:12 AM, Tim Shephard at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> > The stove cover on my '71 Safari is bent and does not close right. I
think
> > it is a magic chef.
> >
> > Can someone describe how to remove the cover? I cannot figure it out.
> >
> =============
> Tim,
>
> If you can lift/tip the front of the stove cover up, then the two
> connections at the rear (fulcrum) can be seen. Usually, it's a matter of
> aligning the connecting posts with two partial holes and sliding the stove
> cover posts out from beneath them. Whatever the variation, the principle
is
> the same (yeahhh - right!!).
>
> I'm sure others will offer suggestions. Among us, one of the ideas will
> match up to your stove cover and do the trick for you.
>
> Terry
> mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 01:04:11 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re:
In a message dated 12/11/01 4:30:21 PM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
<< Subject: [VAC] Shochs for Tow Vehicle
> I am thinking about replacing the original equipment shocks on my 1999
> Suburban 1500. Any suggestions for front and back shocks. I was thinking
> about the adjustable shocks for the rear with the added coil spring.
>
> Thanks
> Don Hardman
> 1976 31' Sovereign >>
Adjustable shocks, yes. Bummer it's only a 99....I have my 2500 99 for sale
and the shocks are in great shape. Don't tow with this one much though, but
then again, my truck shocks haven't been replaced in over 75k. Good luck.
TPR
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2001 04:16:48 -0600
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: transmission designs
harriswest wrote:
>
> > No modern standard transmission uses sliding gears except for reverse
> > gear, its all by synchronizers and dog clutches. The gears stay in mesh
> > all the time.
>
> Huh???
>
> Doc, I just rebuilt my Toyota W59 five-speed, about as modern as you can
> get, and the gears definitely slide along the main shaft to
> engage/disengage with the cluster gear. There isn't a dog clutch in the
> whole gearbox. If all gears were meshed all the time, the thing would be
> locked solid.
>
<SNIP>
It took me this long to find my '65 Ford truck shop manual volume on
transmissions. All the 3, 4, and 5 speed transmissions, whether made by
Ford, Warner, or New Process, are constant mesh except for a sliding
first/reverse gear. Everything else is shifted with synchronizers and
dog clutches. I thought that was the case, wanted to check the shop
manual to be sure. Some where deeper in the pile, there may be a manual
with details on the current F-150 aluminum transmission made in Ford's
Mazda plant. The latest Haynes manual just says change its oil and seal
(maybe) and give it over to the shop to fix. Not a useful shop manual.
I have two '68 model tractors, one with a sliding gear crash box and the
other a "new generation" JD with all gears constantly in mesh with some
shift clutches including synchronizers and some not. Each of these
tractor main transmissions consists of two transmissions in cascade, one
for range and one for 2 or 3 speeds forward and one reverse. The MF
tractor with the crash box develops 6 forward and 2 reverse, then splits
them with a hydraulically shifted planetary gear set to achieve 12
forward and 4 reverse with only the gear splitter transmission shiftable
while moving. The JD has four ranges, and the synchronized transmission
has reverse and two forward, though the cam shifters lock out the two
highest range reverses. Its synchronized shifting (1 to 3, or 2 to 4 or
4 to 7 or 6 to 8) is handy when hauling large loads on the road, like
30,000 pounds of wagon and grain plus 10,000 pounds of tractor and
driver.
I can't perceive a sliding gear transmission as being modern. Sounds to
me as if Toyota is avoiding US patents with 1930s vintage design.
With the shift gate on the MF being worn from thousands of hours of use
and probably millions of shifts, it is possible to slap it from one gear
to another and have a gear slide on beyond neutral while the shift lever
is on the other side of the central shift gate and thus to get it in two
gears at a time. I've heard of that being a consistent problem in some
40s and 50s vintage Allis Chalmers tractors also. Probably the detent
balls and springs need attention.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson. Reproduction by
permission only.
------------------------------
End of VACList-Digest #148
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