[Elecraft] KPA500 fault

2011-08-27 Thread Len Chesler
I am enjoying my new KPA500 coupled with my K3, and I have set up the K3 to 
transmit at approximately 25 watts in the  operate position on all bands 
except 30 meters. However, if the amplifier menu is set to default to operate 
mode upon KPA500 initialization,  I  experience an immediate overdrive fault on 
the amplifier which tells me that the amplifier is not immediately sensing the 
lower power output setting on the K3.I have temporarily remedied this 
situation by setting the KPA500 menu to default to stby mode upon turn on, 
and then when I manually switch to oper mode, I do not experience the 
overdrive fault .  It would be more convenient  to have the amplifier default 
to the operational state, as designed.  I am curious if anyone else is 
experiencing this situation?? 


 

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[Elecraft] KX3 Batttery life question..

2011-08-27 Thread Edward R. Cole
Let me chime in with an opinion and my reasoning.  I have been one of 
the vocal ones about having a transverter I/F which it appears will 
not be available on the KX3.  Understandable; size considerations 
make adding that difficult.

But since the KX3 will run 5-10w 160-6m, if one wanted to use a 
transverter with a 28-MHz IF, that is doable.  Typically the major 
transverter mfr's have an option for connection to a transceiver 
running up to 10w.  That usually consists of a 10w 50-ohm flange 
mounted load with capacitive coupling of a few mw to drive the 
transverter.  Pin diodes are used for TR so the transverter bypasses 
the load in Rx.  DEMI offers this option in their line, and one can 
order the module to retrofit a transverter having separated Tx and Rx 
IF connections.

For microwave transverters, 144-MHz is a favorite IF and that would 
interface with a KX3 internal 2m transverter, nicely.  I would prefer 
a full-power 2m transverter for regular use on 2m, and either adapt 
my mw transverters to handle 5-10w, or perhaps Elecraft could add a 
mw level bypass around the 10w RF module that would offer best of all worlds.

But I agree with Oliver that I would chose the full 5/10w 2m 
transverter over a mw version and forgo the ATU.  I suspect that 
would satisfy most users, either intending use of the KX3 HF/6m only 
and wanting an ATU or wanting a 2m transverter and able to accept not 
having an internal ATU.  I suspect there would be few buyers of a mw 
level 2m transverter.

For my particular use, The KX3 will probably get used more on 6m and 
2m, as I will be selling all my VHF/UHF transceivers to enable buying 
a KX3.  So I need to replace that capability.  The transverters I use 
with the K3 are narrow band on the CW/SSB end and do not cover the FM 
end.  The KX3 is a nice size to replace my 2m mobile.  One can add 
amplifiers for more power in mobile.  I bought a compact 35w linear 
for my FT-817 that packs well in a suitcase along with a mag-mt 2m whip.
-
Another reason I would go for the 5/10w 2m transverter is I already 
own a 20mw 144/28 transverter that I bought for my SDR-IQ and is 
usable as a mw IF.  It gets little use except as a mw IF now, as I 
share the 28-MHz Rx output of my current transverters with both the 
SDR-IQ and my K3.  I have converted my entire transverter line to 
28-MHz IF, 144-1296 MHz.  Only transverters higher in microwaves use 
144-MHz IF and they are run only when portable or as a rover, so are 
not used with the K3.

--

Message: 21
Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 22:57:55 +0200
From: Oliver Dr?se dro...@necg.de
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Batttery life question..
To: elecraft_mailman.qth.net Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: A6EAE713511A495391CE44AE65155757@dh8bqax60
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
 reply-type=original

Hi Wayne,

please don't sacrifice performance. The internal 2 m transverter should at
least have 5 watts output to be useful for normal 2 m applications, 10 W
would be even better but I'm not sure this is doable with the space limits.
;-))

A very low power 2 m transverter (10 mW?) is probably not of much use to
those who need the transverter for 2 m portable ops (which is very popular
in Europe btw.) and these might be the majority of guys wanting the internal
transverter. Yes, there are those guys wanting to use it as a microwave I/F
radio (me too) which makes perfect sense but especially in this use-case the
antenna-tuner f?r HF is usually not needed ;-)). So therefor I would rather
prefer a top notch normal transverter with 5 or 10 W (and the possibility
to set power as low as 1 or 10 mW for transverter use) and use a T1
externally if I ever needed an antenna matching unit in parallel with the
internal transverter.

If you'll provide both an internal high power 2 m transverter module *and*
(alternatively) an internal ATU with 2 m low power included I will be a
happy camper but can still imagine there are folks who don't want to pay for
the low power 2 m part in the ATU so you would need a 3rd option being
just the tuner without transverter. Not sure that is a good business choice
but that is up to you, of course. ;-)) Just wondering if it is worth all the
efforts and time investments.

But I guess you can never please all at once. ;-)) Anyway, good luck and
have fun with the designing tasks.

73, Olli - DH8BQA - Elecraft K3 #4546 w/ K144XV






73, Ed - KL7UW, WD2XSH/45
==
BP40IQ   500 KHz - 10-GHz   www.kl7uw.com
EME: 50-1.1kw?, 144-1.4kw, 432-100w, 1296-60w, 3400-?
DUBUS Magazine USA Rep dubus...@gmail.com
==

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Batttery life question..

2011-08-27 Thread Wayne Burdick
Hi Ed,

The KX3 is intended to provide support for at least one (and maybe  
more) external transverters, including a programmable band display and  
a keying line. Unlike the K3, there won't be separate transverter IN/ 
OUT jacks; you'll need to use a transverter with a multiplexed RX/TX  
connector. Drive power, via the HF-6 m antenna jack, will be  
adjustable down to a minimum of about 100 mW. Further details are TBD.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Aug 27, 2011, at 12:16 AM, Edward R. Cole wrote:

 Let me chime in with an opinion and my reasoning.  I have been one of
 the vocal ones about having a transverter I/F which it appears will
 not be available on the KX3.  Understandable; size considerations
 make adding that difficult.



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 fault

2011-08-27 Thread Richard Squire - HB9ANM
Hi Len

My KPA500 is normally set to PWR ON = STBY, which is the factory default
setting.
But after setting it  to OPER for a test,  I noticed the same thing.
I suspect this is a timing issue, just like leaving the K3 at low power on
band change if BAND CHG is set to STBY.
The next FW release is supposed to solve the problem. Some hams (field
testers?) seem to have FW 1.11 (which is not even Beta yet) but most still
use 1.02.

Let's wait and see...

73
Richard - HB9ANM

Len Chesler-2 wrote:
 
 However, if the amplifier menu is set to default to operate mode upon
 KPA500 initialization,  I  experience an immediate overdrive fault on the
 amplifier which tells me that the amplifier is not immediately sensing the
 lower power output setting on the K3.
 
 


-
Richard - HB9ANM
--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KPA500-fault-tp6731485p6731711.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] unequal tone power output in FSK

2011-08-27 Thread Jens Petersen
On Fri, 26 Aug 2011 08:29:07 -0400, you wrote:

I agree with Dave. If what you were seeing was due to passband ripple, 
choosing a different RTTY pitch should make a difference. I don't 
believe it does. Not only that, but if it were passband ripple, it would 
affect AFSK A the same as FSK D.

My solution to this is to use AFSK A - it has almost all the same 
features as FSK D, but produces cleaner output.

I use DATA A at 1585Hz and have the same problem.
-- 
OV1A Jens

 Sent from my desktop PC with a nice big screen and a real keyboard.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Batttery life question...

2011-08-27 Thread Gary Gregory
I just want an Elecraft KXM-3 ...HF/2/70 Mobile rig.10/100W

Grin...

Gary

On 27 August 2011 15:13, Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com wrote:

 To each his own, but

 Mike Morrow wrote:

  In the 45 years I've been around ham radio, the probability that any
  HF
  ham rig would be used in an emergency has been vanishingly small, with
  the highest probabilities having been 45 years ago, not today

 A few years ago a ham in Oregon broke his leg hiking. He used a KX1 to
 call rescuers. I'm not kidding.

 VHF/UHF doesn't work at all in many mountainous areas, at least if
 you're down in a hole between peaks. For that matter, there are wide
 stretches of the West with no repeaters. NVIS on 40 m with a wire-in-a-
 tree or a backpacking dipole will often do the job with just a few
 watts.

 The clincher is that the end of the world is coming (!). I heard this
 on a shortwave station, thanks to the KX3's general coverage receive.


  An emergency HF radio would, in any event, need to be resistent to
  harm
  from adverse environmental conditions *while in operation*.

 Around here the most likely emergency that would cut off
 communications is an earthquake. Small radios stored in bags are
 likely to survive and be quite useful. It's buildings that suffer.


  An emergency HF radio should also *not* be a QRP rig...at least no rig
  *designated* as an emergency radio.

 I routinely check into a 40-m net and get good reports during the
 daytime with a short antenna 15' off the ground and 5 watts. HFpackers
 often running 10 W or less check into daily nets on 17 m and 20 m and
 work stations thousands of miles away. If there's a will, there's a
 way, and QRP will often get through. Even when it doesn't, it's fun
 trying.


  An emergency HF radio should also have sufficient battery capacity for
  more than just a few hours of intermittent operation.

 Depends on what you mean by intermittent. If my KX3 gives me 10
 hours of casual operation at 3 watts from a 2500-mAhr battery, surely
 I could maintain useful communications during an emergency by being
 even more judicious with my transmit time.

 That said, a small, collapsable solar panel would be an excellent
 addition to the station. It can power the KX3's internal battery
 charger.


  On a *short* hike, carrying a 4 AH battery which prudence mandates
  won't be
  much of an impediment.  I've done that many times, even when I used
  SWL's
  small DSW-20, -30, and -40 units.

 I travel *really* light. On day hikes my entire station weighs about
 1.5 to 2 lbs, allowing me to carry two cans of beer rather than one.


  On a long hike and overnight stay, a 4 AH battery will be mandatory,
  unless
  one enjoys the dead weight of the KX3 and antenna after the internal
  batteries
  are depleted.

 5-10 hours of operation from a charged 2500 mA internal battery is
 sufficient for all but the most boring business trips or hikes. I'm
 usually hiking (or businessing) a lot more than hamming.

 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR


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-- 

VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile
Elecraft Equipment
K3 #679, KPA-500 #018
Living the dream!!!
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 fault

2011-08-27 Thread John E. Reiser
Hi Len,

I think KPA500 FW 4.11 will fix this and similar issues  You can request the 
pre-beta by sending an e-mail to d...@elecraft.com.

73,  John, W2GW


- Original Message - 
From: Richard Squire - HB9ANM hb9...@bluewin.ch
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 5:07 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 fault


 Hi Len

 My KPA500 is normally set to PWR ON = STBY, which is the factory default
 setting.
 But after setting it  to OPER for a test,  I noticed the same thing.
 I suspect this is a timing issue, just like leaving the K3 at low power on
 band change if BAND CHG is set to STBY.
 The next FW release is supposed to solve the problem. Some hams (field
 testers?) seem to have FW 1.11 (which is not even Beta yet) but most still
 use 1.02.

 Let's wait and see...

 73
 Richard - HB9ANM

 Len Chesler-2 wrote:

 However, if the amplifier menu is set to default to operate mode upon
 KPA500 initialization,  I  experience an immediate overdrive fault on the
 amplifier which tells me that the amplifier is not immediately sensing 
 the
 lower power output setting on the K3.




 -
 Richard - HB9ANM
 --
 View this message in context: 
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KPA500-fault-tp6731485p6731711.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Batttery life question...

2011-08-27 Thread David Ferrington, M0XDF
I can't argue with the reasoning from either side of the camp here - if I was 
in the US, but I'm not...

I'm in the UK, 30m west of London in the M4 (that’s highway/freeway, think 101) 
corridor with suburbia all around, houses in the 'country' as close or closer 
than those in a NY suburb and VHF/UHF is likely to be of more use in an 
emergency. If I plan to go portable on some trail, that's a good 45 mins to the 
nearest quiet spot, I'd be planning that and taking something like an 4Ah gel 
cell and a tent. If I want to hike up a mountain, that's 2 to 3 hrs to 
something 'not small' and 5 hrs to something equivalent to one of your local 
small mountain ranges (we don't do 'big' here).

I still like the idea of the KX3, I can see uses for it here in both HF and 
VHF, but in my own mind I was thinking 'great 2M rig with fantastic frontend', 
to drive a 100W PA for our 2M contests at my alternative QTH - with mains power 
and a permanent mast. A lot less messing about than disconnecting the K3, XV144 
etc and putting it in the car to go the 2 miles to that location (a Scout HQ on 
higher ground where we have erected a small mast and 2m beam).

I can see running SOTA with it as HF and then, yes;, light, minimal kit, ATU 
etc. would be great, but I don't do SOTA and as I say, for anything worth the 
climb, it's a good 4 to 5 hrs away.

If I want HF, I'll want an ATU as well, so I'll have to remove the 2M - I don't 
think the intention is to plug and play with these on a regular basis.

So to me, although very useful, an internal battery is not an inherent part of 
the rig, but a good 2m module will be. Guess I may end up buying 2!

As Wayne says, each to his own...

73 de M0XDF, K3 #174, P3 #108, KX3 #???
-- 
The trees that are slow to grow bear the best fruit.
-Moliere, actor and playwright (1622-1673)

On 27 Aug 2011, at 06:13, Wayne Burdick wrote:

 To each his own, but
 
 Mike Morrow wrote:
 
 In the 45 years I've been around ham radio, the probability that any  
 HF
 ham rig would be used in an emergency has been vanishingly small, with
 the highest probabilities having been 45 years ago, not today
 
 A few years ago a ham in Oregon broke his leg hiking. He used a KX1 to  
 call rescuers. I'm not kidding.
 

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[Elecraft] KX3 Batttery life question..

2011-08-27 Thread Steve Kavanagh
We were thinking along the lines of 200-500 mW for the micro
transverter, if it's even possible. The regular transverter option  
could be as high as 5 W. We'll see.

Wayne
N6KR

Now that sounds interesting.  I run a bunch of microwave transverters from a 2m 
IF at 50-100 mW and have found no simple replacement for my old FT-290R IF 
radio (other than a second FT-290R), used at the low power setting.  They are 
nearing 30 years of age and aren't going to last forever. I don't like the use 
of a higher power radio turned down due to the danger of inadvertantly 
transmitting into the transverter at higher power, or of high power transients. 
Plus the FT-290R draws very little current on receive (~75 mA, no signal, no 
dial light) which is useful in portable operations.

I currently use them on 1296 MHz (ancient Microwave Modules transverter), 
2.3/3.4/5.7/24 GHz (homebrew transverters) and 10 GHz (Kuhne/DB6NT MKU10G2 
transverter), with the transverters switched by the +6.8V (through a resistor) 
that the FT-290R puts on the antenna connector in transmit.  Elecraft might 
consider making available a DC control voltage like this available on such a 
low power transverter (with the equivalent of the K2's 8R HOLD mode to avoid 
relay chatter in the transverter).

It wuld be nice to have a newer option !

73,
Steve VE3SMA
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[Elecraft] K1 praise

2011-08-27 Thread rhulett1
This is probably off topic, seeing as how most topics are now K3 or KX3.  

Still, just had to praise my K1...  
Again, this Saturday morning, turned K1-4 s/n 2258 to 15M and started working 
EU 
with 4 watts to a center-fed doublet.  In about 15 minutes, Croatia, England, 
and Russia. 
If this weekend is anything like last, will likely work 10 other countries or 
more. 

I built this rig several years ago, including the internal tuner to use for 
parkbench portable.  
Since completion, I can't imagine how many QSOs have made with this little 
rig. I am always 
amazed to answer a CQ using less than 5 watts and receive a response from 
someone 
thousands of miles away.  I own a number of other QRP rigs, including a K2, but 
the 
little K1's simplicity and capability always draw me to use it on the weekends. 
  

72, KB5JO
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[Elecraft] Daisy Chain

2011-08-27 Thread David Christ
Connecting the PC to the P3 and then the P3 to the K3 was recently 
discussed.  When I look at the manual for the KPA 500 it shows the PC 
connected to the KPA 500 but only the AUX to the K3 even though there 
is a RS 232 connector marked (XCVR).

So, can one chain the PC through the KPA 500 to the K3 the came way 
as with the P3 and K3? Can you chain all three together?  if so in 
what order?  If one has a KPA 500 and K3 it would be nice not to have 
to swap cables for doing updates etc.

This does not seem to be covered in the KPA 500 manual but somehow 
seems to be implied by the conductor labeling.  It only mentions 
connecting the (XCVR) connector to a Kenwood tranceiver.

David K0LUM
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 praise

2011-08-27 Thread Doug Turnbull
I do not think the K1 is at all off topic.   I am using two K3s here but
having seen the wee K1 at Dayton am now fascinated by it and playing around
with the idea of purchasing one new or used.   I would be very interested in
hearing how the receiver is and how stable the VFO is or is it Xtal
controlled.   It is so small that it seems amazing that one can do so much
with it.   Perhaps the K3, KX3, P3 and KPA 500 have left the wee K1 in the
shade for too long.   I might use it with a large Yagi and this would be
cheating but the K1 pulls at the heart if it has any type of performance at
all and being from the Elecraft stable it must be reasonably good.

 Perhaps I need to do a web search for reviews but this forum is not a
bad place for seeking comment on Elecraft product.   I find myself working
more K3 users all the time.

  73 Doug EI2CN  

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of rhule...@comcast.net
Sent: 27 August 2011 15:35
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K1 praise

This is probably off topic, seeing as how most topics are now K3 or KX3.  

Still, just had to praise my K1...  
Again, this Saturday morning, turned K1-4 s/n 2258 to 15M and started
working EU 
with 4 watts to a center-fed doublet.  In about 15 minutes, Croatia,
England, and Russia. 
If this weekend is anything like last, will likely work 10 other countries
or more. 

I built this rig several years ago, including the internal tuner to use for
parkbench portable.  
Since completion, I can't imagine how many QSOs have made with this little
rig. I am always 
amazed to answer a CQ using less than 5 watts and receive a response from
someone 
thousands of miles away.  I own a number of other QRP rigs, including a K2,
but the 
little K1's simplicity and capability always draw me to use it on the
weekends. 
  

72, KB5JO
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[Elecraft] KPA Hi Pwr fault additional info

2011-08-27 Thread Len Chesler
I am utilizing FW vers. 1.02 and connecting to the K3 via the aux bus cable. If 
I set the KPA500 PWR ON menu setting to OPER, the K3 will not show the 
KPA500 OPER on the display and apprently is not syncing.  In that state, if I 
transmit, the amp will immediately go into a Hi Pwr fault. (no matter how long 
I wait for the aux bus cable to sync).  

If ,However,  I set the PWR ON menu default to STBY and manually switch to 
OPER, the K3 will properly sync and will display KPA500 OPER and all is well. 
  
Could this be a firmware issue? Any suggestions?
Tnx
Len


 

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[Elecraft] KPA Hi Pwr fault additional info

2011-08-27 Thread Brian Alsop
Len,

Thanks for this post.  A local here can't get his KPA500 running due to 
the same fault.

I've forwarded it to him.  At least if paragraph 2 works for him, he can 
feel that the amp works -- sort of.

He and Elecraft are in touch about this problem.

73 de Brian/K3KO

On 8/27/2011 16:04, Len Chesler wrote:
  I am utilizing FW vers. 1.02 and connecting to the K3 via the aux bus 
cable. If I set the KPA500 PWR ON menu setting to OPER, the K3 will 
not show the KPA500 OPER on the display and apprently is not syncing. 
  In that state, if I transmit, the amp will immediately go into a Hi 
Pwr fault. (no matter how long I wait for the aux bus cable to sync).
 
  If ,However,  I set the PWR ON menu default to STBY and manually 
switch to OPER, the K3 will properly sync and will display KPA500 OPER 
and all is well.
  Could this be a firmware issue? Any suggestions?
  Tnx
  Len


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[Elecraft] W2

2011-08-27 Thread Phil LaMarche
I purchased a W2, used, that came with two modules.  200 and 2000.  Do I
really need to monitor the K3's output?  Or, should I put the W2 at the
output of the KPA500.  Advice please.

 

Phil

 

Philip LaMarche

 

LaMarche Enterprises, Inc

 

 mailto:p...@lamarcheenterprises.com p...@lamarcheenterprises.com

 http://www.lamarcheenterprises.com/ www.LaMarcheEnterprises.com  

 

727-944-3226

727-937-8834 Fax

727-510-5038 Cell 

  http://www.w9dvm.com/ www.w9dvm.com

K3 # 1605

KPA500 # 029

P3 #1480

 

 CCA 98-00827

CRA 1701

W9DVM

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Batttery life question...

2011-08-27 Thread N6MQL
I believe that there was a miss communication here.  When people were 
were suggesting that the internal battery area in the KX3 be used for a 
full power 2 meter transmitter, they weren't just asking that that the 
battery compartment be permanently removed.  I believe what some were 
asking for, was the ability to remove the battery pack and then have 
access to an additional 'hook' that would ALSO provided the ability to 
attach a full power 2 meter module. This could allow for both types of 
operations.
For those that do want the internal battery, they could use the standard 
'hook' for the 2m module, and remove the ATU from it's intended 
location, thereby allowing the battery to be installed..
Of course this means a duplicate flex cable that terminates to a 'hook' 
board where it could sit in the unused battery compartment (and be 
removed with some ease).. This of course also means that Elecraft has 
one more option 'board/bracket' to sell you...

Another thing I would like to see, and this goes for the K3 as well, is 
the ability to turn off the Backlight, AND be able to turn off the LED's 
as well.  The LEDs need only to be on for Delta mode (split) etc, and 
don't need to be seen at all times. For those that do want them on all 
the time, it would still be nice if we were able to dim them down to the 
lowest setting (as they do when the backlight is on)
In my opinion this would help save energy and LEDs when someone is using 
their rig portable, or in a 'remote' setup, and wants to leave it on 
24/7 as I do when I travel.  I would rather not have the LEDs burning 
needlessly if I'm not there to see them. Especially since their going at 
full brightness in the 'day' mode.

Just my 2 cents,

Michael
N6MQL

On 8/27/2011 9:00 AM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
 e: [Elecraft] KX3 Batttery life question...


-- 
Michael Aretsky
N6MQL

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Re: [Elecraft] W2

2011-08-27 Thread Dick Dievendorff
Typically wattmeters are connected to the output of the amplifier, to
monitor the overall station output (whether the amplifier is in use or in
bypass) and the SWR of the antenna system.

If you were designing your own amplifier or suspected it of presenting a
poor SWR to the transceiver, you might find it useful to put a wattmeter/SWR
bridge between transceiver and amplifier to verify that the amplifier is
presenting a good match to the transceiver.

The second lower-power W2 module might be useful in a two-radio station
where one station does not use an amplifier.   Or if someone had an
amplifier that covered 160-10 and used just transceiver output on another
ANT connector for 6 meters.

Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil LaMarche
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 9:42 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] W2

I purchased a W2, used, that came with two modules.  200 and 2000.  Do I
really need to monitor the K3's output?  Or, should I put the W2 at the
output of the KPA500.  Advice please.

 

Phil

 

Philip LaMarche

 

LaMarche Enterprises, Inc

 

 mailto:p...@lamarcheenterprises.com p...@lamarcheenterprises.com

 http://www.lamarcheenterprises.com/ www.LaMarcheEnterprises.com  

 

727-944-3226

727-937-8834 Fax

727-510-5038 Cell 

  http://www.w9dvm.com/ www.w9dvm.com

K3 # 1605

KPA500 # 029

P3 #1480

 

 CCA 98-00827

CRA 1701

W9DVM

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Daisy Chain

2011-08-27 Thread Dick Dievendorff
The KPA500 owner's manual covers this on page 7, the description of all the
back panel connectors:

Optional: RS232 (XCVR) {8} connects the KPA500 to a Kenwood transceiver
using a standard 9-pin serial cable.  

That's all it's used for.  

The KPA500 does not pass thru commands (or K3 firmware) from one RS-232
connector to another as does the P3.

I use a DB-9 ABCD 4-way switch box to connect a single KUSB to  

A) a P3 and through that to one K3, 
B) a second K3 without a P3,
C) a KPA500, and 
D) a serial data cable used for the W2, XG3, and K144XV.

My work requires me to load firmware more often than most, and I also tired
of swapping connectors a lot.

Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Christ
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 8:33 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Daisy Chain

Connecting the PC to the P3 and then the P3 to the K3 was recently
discussed.  When I look at the manual for the KPA 500 it shows the PC
connected to the KPA 500 but only the AUX to the K3 even though there is a
RS 232 connector marked (XCVR).

So, can one chain the PC through the KPA 500 to the K3 the came way as with
the P3 and K3? Can you chain all three together?  if so in what order?  If
one has a KPA 500 and K3 it would be nice not to have to swap cables for
doing updates etc.

This does not seem to be covered in the KPA 500 manual but somehow seems to
be implied by the conductor labeling.  It only mentions connecting the
(XCVR) connector to a Kenwood tranceiver.

David K0LUM
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 praise

2011-08-27 Thread Michael Byrd
Doug,

I think you would be happy with the K1.

I am using K1 number 583 which I built and have completed DXCC on 40 meters 
with a vertical antenna. Originally the K1 was two bands only but I bought the 
four band board when it was released. The only other addition was the noise 
blanker which has stopped working. I have another noise blanker board ready to 
go in soon.

I did all of the updates and modifications without any problems. My K1 is 
stable and very reliable. I did replace the main tuning (10 turn pot) with a 
higher grade product with a metal shaft. I'm glad I did that, the old pot with 
the plastic shaft was shaky and the frequency would jump if not careful. The 
new pot makes the radio seem very solid.

I have used the K1 on 40, 30, 17 and some 20 meters. I have QSLs from a lot of 
DX worked. My favorite was to work other QRPers on 40. 40 has changed a lot for 
QRP stations and they are no longer in one area. It was fun to listen around 
7040 as there was a lot of activity. One late night, I heard a lot of EU QRP 
stations working 7030. I called for quite some time but never got an answer, 
which shows the receiver works pretty well.

True, the K1 has taken a back seat to other Elecraft radios, a fact I do not 
understand. I have truly enjoyed my K1, the building and many hours operating. 
I have stalked DX and worked contests with success. As a more than casual user, 
I can recommend the K1 to someone that wants to relive the thrill of ham radio.

73, Mike AC4UR
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[Elecraft] K1 Praise

2011-08-27 Thread David Yarnes
KB5JO's comments about his K1 are certainly relevant in my view.  This 
little gem of a rig doesn't get all that much attention these days, but it 
is still deserving of such.

I still have my K1, a fairly early one, and I must admit that, at first, I 
wasn't as happy with it as I thought I would be.  That was mainly because I 
had to switch boards in order to gain access to more than just two bands. 
Later, though, Elecraft solved this by adding a 4 band board--I just wish 
they had offered it that way from the start.

The K1 is a very competent little radio, and a lot of fun to operate.  It's 
small enough to be very portable, but not necessarily a prime favorite of 
the backpacking crowd.  Mine has the built in ATU, and combined with the 
BL-2, it will work with just about anything you might want to use for an 
antenna.  You get a solid 5 watts, and then some, and minimal battery 
consumption.  For several years, before I retired, I spent a lot of lunch 
hours operating from nearby parks.  I also used it on several Field Day 
events.  Everything I needed fit easily into a relatively small 
briefcase--the K1, an MP-1 antenna system, some feedline, paddle, and power. 
I usually managed a QSO or two, even on 40 meters at mid-day, and was rarely 
skunked.

The new KX3 may be viewed as a replacement for the K1, if not the K2 and 
KX1, but I think there are plenty of good reasons for keeping a K1 around. 
For one thing, it's a darned good back-up radio even if you do have 
something better.  I doubt the KX3 will be as battery friendly as the K1. 
Maybe most importantly, it's a radio you can really build yourself, and if 
you get one that is used, you can still probably service it yourself.  That 
has to count for a lot, at least to some of us.

I take great pride in being a K3 owner.  However, to be honest with you, I 
take greater pride in the fact that I built a K1, K2, and KX1 that work! 
The first transmitter I had was homebrew from the chassis up (with a lot of 
help from my Elmers).  A couple of Heathkits followed, but then there was 
a hiatus for nearly 35 years when I didn't build much of anything.  Then a 
couple of NorCal rigs came along (Wayne's designs), and a lot of the fun I 
had been missing returned.  A number of  other rigs followed (too many 
probably), and now I have a couple of shelves filled with rigs I 
constructed.  Each one represents a very gratifying experience, and I can 
re-appreciate much of it each time I pull one of those rigs down and hook it 
up.

Anyway, I prefer to think of the K1 as a mature radio, meaning it has been 
around a while, has been superceded in many respects by later designs, but 
still has a lot of good life to go.  Again, it is a very competent little 
radio, and shouldn't be dismissed from consideration.  For many of you it 
may be just what you need, and maybe all that you need--at least for certain 
situations.

Dave W7AQK






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Re: [Elecraft] K1 praise

2011-08-27 Thread Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft
The K1 (and KX1) definietely have not taken a back seat to our other radios. 
:-) Even the K2 is still selling well after the introduction of the K3.

We are still selling a good number of these each month. These are unique and 
timeless designs that have a lot of appeal.

73,
Eric  WA6HHQ

www.elecraft.com
_..._


On Aug 27, 2011, at 10:15 AM, Michael Byrd mbyr...@tampabay.rr.com wrote:

 Doug,
 
 I think you would be happy with the K1.
 
 I am using K1 number 583 which I built and have completed DXCC on 40 meters 
 with a vertical antenna. Originally the K1 was two bands only but I bought 
 the four band board when it was released. The only other addition was the 
 noise blanker which has stopped working. I have another noise blanker board 
 ready to go in soon.
 
 I did all of the updates and modifications without any problems. My K1 is 
 stable and very reliable. I did replace the main tuning (10 turn pot) with a 
 higher grade product with a metal shaft. I'm glad I did that, the old pot 
 with the plastic shaft was shaky and the frequency would jump if not careful. 
 The new pot makes the radio seem very solid.
 
 I have used the K1 on 40, 30, 17 and some 20 meters. I have QSLs from a lot 
 of DX worked. My favorite was to work other QRPers on 40. 40 has changed a 
 lot for QRP stations and they are no longer in one area. It was fun to listen 
 around 7040 as there was a lot of activity. One late night, I heard a lot of 
 EU QRP stations working 7030. I called for quite some time but never got an 
 answer, which shows the receiver works pretty well.
 
 True, the K1 has taken a back seat to other Elecraft radios, a fact I do not 
 understand. I have truly enjoyed my K1, the building and many hours 
 operating. I have stalked DX and worked contests with success. As a more than 
 casual user, I can recommend the K1 to someone that wants to relive the 
 thrill of ham radio.
 
 73, Mike AC4UR
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 praise

2011-08-27 Thread Phil Hystad
Eric,

You're selling them because I am buying them.  I have the K3, P3, KX1 and a few 
of the min-kit things.  My next is the K1 and then the KX3 if it is out by 
then.  Oh, I plan on the KPA500 this Fall sometime so make sure you make one 
extra kit for me and the KAT500 of course when it is available.

I will be done buying when I run out of money or when you guys quit the 
business -- whichever comes first. 

Keep up the good work.  Oh, I plan on the K2 but probably after I retire as it 
is a bigger project.  Maybe I should buy that now?

73, phil, k7PEH


On Aug 27, 2011, at 10:38 AM, Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft wrote:

 The K1 (and KX1) definietely have not taken a back seat to our other radios. 
 :-) Even the K2 is still selling well after the introduction of the K3.
 
 We are still selling a good number of these each month. These are unique and 
 timeless designs that have a lot of appeal.
 
 73,
 Eric  WA6HHQ
 
 www.elecraft.com
 _..._
 
 
 On Aug 27, 2011, at 10:15 AM, Michael Byrd mbyr...@tampabay.rr.com wrote:
 
 Doug,
 
 I think you would be happy with the K1.
 
 I am using K1 number 583 which I built and have completed DXCC on 40 meters 
 with a vertical antenna. Originally the K1 was two bands only but I bought 
 the four band board when it was released. The only other addition was the 
 noise blanker which has stopped working. I have another noise blanker board 
 ready to go in soon.
 
 I did all of the updates and modifications without any problems. My K1 is 
 stable and very reliable. I did replace the main tuning (10 turn pot) with a 
 higher grade product with a metal shaft. I'm glad I did that, the old pot 
 with the plastic shaft was shaky and the frequency would jump if not 
 careful. The new pot makes the radio seem very solid.
 
 I have used the K1 on 40, 30, 17 and some 20 meters. I have QSLs from a lot 
 of DX worked. My favorite was to work other QRPers on 40. 40 has changed a 
 lot for QRP stations and they are no longer in one area. It was fun to 
 listen around 7040 as there was a lot of activity. One late night, I heard a 
 lot of EU QRP stations working 7030. I called for quite some time but never 
 got an answer, which shows the receiver works pretty well.
 
 True, the K1 has taken a back seat to other Elecraft radios, a fact I do not 
 understand. I have truly enjoyed my K1, the building and many hours 
 operating. I have stalked DX and worked contests with success. As a more 
 than casual user, I can recommend the K1 to someone that wants to relive the 
 thrill of ham radio.
 
 73, Mike AC4UR
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 praise

2011-08-27 Thread Fred Jensen
On 8/27/2011 10:57 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:

 My next is the K1 and then the KX3 if it is out by then.

I built, in order:  K2, KX1, K3, KPA500.  I use my K2 on field events 
such as SOTA activations and QRP contests.  Earlier this year [on Field 
Day], Rich NU6T and I activated SOTA W6/SN-039 [9,500 ft Leviathan 
Peak].  I had my K2, Rich his K1.  After awhile, I said, Let's trade 
radios, I've never used a K1.

I was truly amazed, that is a really, really cool little radio, and 
about half the weight of my K2.  I suspect under lab conditions, my K2 
RX will outperform the K1 a little bit, I noticed on very strong signals 
[well over S9] the K1 pulled a little in frequency, but it really 
impressed me.  It's on my list to buy, not at the top, but when I win 
the lottery, I'll buy them all.

73,

Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA
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[Elecraft] KX3 Batttery life question...and Internal Battery Compartment Design

2011-08-27 Thread Mike Morrow
I wrote:

 ...that any HF ham rig would be used in an emergency has been vanishingly
 small...

Wayne wrote:

 A few years ago a ham in Oregon broke his leg hiking. He used a KX1 to  
 call rescuers. I'm not kidding.

That was W7AU in 2008.  It was an impressive use of the KX1.  Another party
of hikers put the antenna up for him, he then let them proceed on.  Afterwards,
it took several hours of calling before getting a reply.  All in all, the 
operation had some rough edges, had the emergency been really threatening! 

I also have some similar real-life experience.  In 1998 on a solitary 
day-hike in Alabama's Sipsey Wilderness, through mis-step I broke both
bones in my left lower leg.  

Such events are common every year, given the many millons of miles hiked
in thousands of remote locations in North America.  I just did what most
have always done...I crawled for what seemed a *real* long time until I got
to a trailhead.  I was far more thankful for the water I carried than for
the radio.  Fortunately some high school kids came by and got me to the
nearest hospital.  (No muss, no fuss, no rescue squads, no Forest Service
paperwork!)

 VHF/UHF doesn't work at all in many mountainous areas, at least if  
 you're down in a hole between peaks. For that matter, there are wide  
 stretches of the West with no repeaters.

I had my FT-50R HT, but no ham repeaters were accessible, nor was there
cell coverage.  Since my non-compound fractures were not all that serious,
I was not tempted to try use of Forest Service or Sheriff's Department
repeaters.

My point with this story is that these events are not rare.  When ham radio
helps, it seems always to be more a matter of convenience rather than having
any real effect on the *final* outcome.

BTW, if I'd have had an HF QRP rig with me, I still would not have attempted to
put it into service.  That would have been challenging and, more importantly,
potentially dangerous.  Simple breaks can easily become compound fractures 
during
the activity that would be required.

 I heard this on a shortwave station, thanks to the KX3's general
 coverage receive.

That capability is just one of the characteristics that make the KX3 such
an exciting product.  I hope to have mine before the Mayan Apocalypse,
which I understand is a state holiday in California. :-)

I wrote:

 An emergency HF radio would, in any event, need to be resistent to  
 harm from adverse environmental conditions *while in operation*.

Wayne wrote:

 Around here the most likely emergency that would cut off  
 communications is an earthquake. Small radios stored in bags are  
 likely to survive and be quite useful.

I did not mean to find fault in the hardening of the KX3 against adverse
environmental effects.  The vast vast majority of all commercial HF ham
transceivers ever made do no better, or not as well. 

I wrote:

 An emergency HF radio should also *not* be a QRP rig...at least no rig
 *designated* as an emergency radio.

Wayne wrote:

 ...QRP will often get through. Even when it doesn't, it's fun trying.

But that's not the point of emergency service.  Power is *always* a blessing
in real emergency communications.  QRP success requires effort and skill on the
part of the receiving party, not the transmitting party (an awkward QRP'er's
secret).  Though, in an emergency it is the transmitting party that will be
the one hurt.

I wrote:

 An emergency HF radio should also have sufficient battery capacity for
 more than just a few hours of intermittent operation.

Wayne wrote:

 If my KX3 gives me 10 hours of casual operation at 3 watts...surely  
 I could maintain useful communications during an emergency by being  
 even more judicious with my transmit time.

Ah, yes.  But wouldn't it have been better to have stocked a 4 or 7 AH
SLA for external use?

Wayne wrote:

 That said, a small, collapsable solar panel would be an excellent  
 addition to the station. It can power the KX3's internal battery  
 charger.

That would be an excellent accessory in the Elecraft product line.

But this brings me back to what is, IMHO, *the* most important issue
of internal batteries.  I asked:

 What sort of chemical barrier will exist between the battery and the
 internals of the KX3 to prevent damage in the event of outgassing or
 leakage of chemical contaminants from the battery?  

 If there won't be an impermeable compartment, that alone says Better
 keep the chemistry outside the radio!

That is the **real** concern about internal batteries in *any* rig.

Thanks for your replies, Wayne.  I'm not in any way being critical of the
most stunningly impressive radio that has ever been proposed for the
hiking, camping, and backpacking ham.  It may take you all a year to work
through the initial order backlog!  My order will be there too.

73,
Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] W2

2011-08-27 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Dick answered the question of where the wattmeter usually goes, but note
that the KPA500 does *not* need an external output power monitor. That
monitoring is built into the KPA500 with both front-panel LED 'bargraphs'
showing the forward power and SWR simultaneously, and you can call up the
SWR and POWER on the KPA500's LCD if desired. 

That monitoring works to show the K3's output and SWR as well when the
KPA500 is in standby. 

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil LaMarche
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 9:42 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] W2

I purchased a W2, used, that came with two modules.  200 and 2000.  Do I
really need to monitor the K3's output?  Or, should I put the W2 at the
output of the KPA500.  Advice please.

 

Phil

 

Philip LaMarche

 

LaMarche Enterprises, Inc

 

 mailto:p...@lamarcheenterprises.com p...@lamarcheenterprises.com

 http://www.lamarcheenterprises.com/ www.LaMarcheEnterprises.com  

 

727-944-3226

727-937-8834 Fax

727-510-5038 Cell 

  http://www.w9dvm.com/ www.w9dvm.com

K3 # 1605

KPA500 # 029

P3 #1480

 

 CCA 98-00827

CRA 1701

W9DVM

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Daisy Chain

2011-08-27 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Under FIRMWARE UPDATES in the Owner's manual the text says  Connect your
KPA500 RS232(PC) port to your computer and launch the KPA Utility program.

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
Connecting the PC to the P3 and then the P3 to the K3 was recently 
discussed.  When I look at the manual for the KPA 500 it shows the PC 
connected to the KPA 500 but only the AUX to the K3 even though there 
is a RS 232 connector marked (XCVR).

So, can one chain the PC through the KPA 500 to the K3 the came way 
as with the P3 and K3? Can you chain all three together?  if so in 
what order?  If one has a KPA 500 and K3 it would be nice not to have 
to swap cables for doing updates etc.

This does not seem to be covered in the KPA 500 manual but somehow 
seems to be implied by the conductor labeling.  It only mentions 
connecting the (XCVR) connector to a Kenwood tranceiver.

David K0LUM

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[Elecraft] K2 Alignment Part II

2011-08-27 Thread David Dietrich
Hi Everyone!

I am starting the second part of the K2 alignment.  I went and redid the first 
part of the alignment because I tweaked R1 by accident.  Some of the numbers 
came out different than the last time because I had more stuff on the board.

I do have a question about the 4 MHz Oscillator Calibration:

This may sound like a stupid question, but what am I supposed to be listening 
for on my receiver when I zero-beat to the crystal?  I am hearing a tone, and 
it changes when I adjust C22, but I am not sure to what tone I need to adjust 
it to.

Any clarification on this would be great!

Thanks  73,

David
KC9EHQ
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment Part II

2011-08-27 Thread Dick Dievendorff
Typically zero beat means getting the beat note down to zero, where you
hear no tone. 

In the days of AM transmission, you'd hear the beat note between the other
station and could get your transmitter onto the same frequency by keying
your transmitter (at low power) with a spot function, and then adjust your
transmitter VFO for the lowest possible beat note. If you were lucky and had
a good audio system and a fine-grained stable VFO, as the note got really
low you'd hear a rhythmic pulsing that you can adjust to very close to zero.

In other more modern use with CW, you hear two tones and you need to line
them up.  If you're asked to zero beat with another station on CW, you
want your transceiver side tone to match the other station's tone, and you
want the transceiver side tone to be offset appropriately to make this
happen.  Many transceivers have a PITCH control to set the CW offset tone
for user preference.  Some advanced transceivers have a CW Spot function
that adjusts the transceiver VFO to match the side tone, putting you on the
right frequency as another CW signal.  In SSB communications it's a little
harder, you have to tune your VFO so that the other guy speech sounds
natural.  If you don’t know the other guys' voice, you might tend to be off
a few cycles.  I can understand SSB signals at some distance from zero beat,
and in the heat of a contest I might not tune very accurately.  Fortunately
many others can understand this as well.

Some of us have more trouble than others matching two pitches.  People who
do this well scored high on the Navy Boot Camp Sonar aptitude test. Others
of us are tone deaf and cannot discern the difference between two notes
that don't differ by much.

Dick


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Dietrich
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 12:30 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment Part II

Hi Everyone!

I am starting the second part of the K2 alignment.  I went and redid the
first part of the alignment because I tweaked R1 by accident.  Some of the
numbers came out different than the last time because I had more stuff on
the board.

I do have a question about the 4 MHz Oscillator Calibration:

This may sound like a stupid question, but what am I supposed to be
listening for on my receiver when I zero-beat to the crystal?  I am hearing
a tone, and it changes when I adjust C22, but I am not sure to what tone I
need to adjust it to.

Any clarification on this would be great!

Thanks  73,

David
KC9EHQ
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 praise

2011-08-27 Thread Jessie Oberreuter

  Hear Hear!  I love my K1!  It has the seat of honor in the top pouch 
of my backpack and is my travel rig of choice!  The K3 is the centerpiece 
of the shack, and the K2 lives in the bedroom when not contesting in the 
field.  If I lost my K1, I'd buy and build another in a heart beat!


On Sat, 27 Aug 2011, Eric Swartz  WA6HHQ - Elecraft wrote:

 We are still selling a good number of these each month. These are unique 
 and timeless designs that have a lot of appeal.

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[Elecraft] K1 praise

2011-08-27 Thread Mike Morrow
My eleven-year-old K1 SN 175 is still my favorite QRP rig,
including service as a backpack rig.

For anyone considering the purchase of a new K1, there is one
absolutely most-important decision to make:  Order the LCD
backlight!  Even better would be for Elecraft to raise the K1
price a little and make the backlight standard.  Trust me...
you don't want to have to go through the backlight backfit
process after the K1 is built...no fun at all!

I waited years after the backlight was available, and I never
guessed how useful it is and how little additional power it
requires.

Second most important decision:  Get the four-band board.  It
has better RF filtering than the two-band board, plus twice
the bands, of course.

I hope to have a KX3 someday, but nothing would ever make me
get rid of my K1 except the eternal dirt nap. :-) [That would
make a great advertising quote from a satisfied customer.]

Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 praise

2011-08-27 Thread Rick Dettinger
You can take my K1 when you pry it from my cold, dead fingers!


73,
Rick Dettinger   K7MW




 I hope to have a KX3 someday, but nothing would ever make me
 get rid of my K1 except the eternal dirt nap. :-) [That would
 make a great advertising quote from a satisfied customer.]

 Mike / KK5F

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 praise

2011-08-27 Thread Ian White GM3SEK
Rick Dettinger wrote:
You can take my K1 when you pry it from my cold, dead fingers!

Since 'Men In Black', we have to be more careful about that line:



-- 

73 from Ian GM3SEK
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 praise

2011-08-27 Thread stan levandowski
My XYL has been instructed to place my K1 in the box with me.

Some time back, I made a video comparing the same signal from the same 
antenna as heard on all four of my Elecraft products.   It was just a 
casual video.  Nothing technical.   I've gotten a surprising number of 
hits.  It's a nine minute video but you only need to view the first 1:13 
to appreciate the K1's competitive spirit.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hv_tGEKD0ds


73, Stan WB2LQF
KX1 #2411K1#2994K2# 6980K3#5244 K9 #1 (Cocoa the 
Chihuahua)
Everything is QRP, even the dog.



On Sat, Aug 27, 2011 at 5:01 PM, Rick Dettinger wrote:

 You can take my K1 when you pry it from my cold, dead fingers!

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Batttery life question...

2011-08-27 Thread Bill K9YEQ
This is exactly what I have wanted since the KX1.  I own the FT817 and the
battery issue is just that... an issue.  With 6m SSB and all the low bands
in the KX3, it fills all I could ever hope for in a portable, especially
with the planned add-ins.  Plug in units in the battery compartment could
serve as additional add-ins to make greater flexibility for future updates
which the user could purchase.  I have enjoyed the portable operation of the
FT-817 with the options of additional SSB filter and DSP along with the
latest NIMH battery technology, but I would abandon this in a moment for the
KX3 design when successfully implemented.  Having 2 meter FM is not my
requirement.  I have a TH72d and TS2000 for playing around and the TH72d
takes care of my VHF UHF needs as a portable station including APRS and
Packet.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Wayne Burdick
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2011 6:16 PM
To: David Ferrington, M0XDF
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Batttery life question...


On Aug 26, 2011, at 4:01 PM, David Ferrington, M0XDF wrote:

 ...might even be able to put the 100w PA in place of the battery

Unfortunately, no. The KX3's normal low-pass filters are rated at 15 W, as
is the ATU.

The battery is very important; it makes the KX3 an all-in-one unit that you
can quickly deploy in an emergency, take on a short hike, toss into a very
small small corner of your suitcase, etc. It's an inherent part of the
product.

73,
Wayne
N6KR
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 praise

2011-08-27 Thread Bill K9YEQ
Phil,

I am semi-retired, used to be fully back in 2001, pre-911.  I totally agree
with your sentiments.  I have built the K2 and all add0ns but the amp.  I
built the Kx1 and all add-ons. I have owned the K1 and all add-ons.  I have
several smaller kits, including the W1 and W2 watt meters.  All I can say,
none have disappointed me.  It comes down to build, use, sell, build, use,
sell. Etc.  Now on to the KX3!

73,
Bill
K9YEQ


-Original Message-

Eric,

You're selling them because I am buying them.  I have the K3, P3, KX1 and a
few of the min-kit things.  My next is the K1 and then the KX3 if it is out
by then.  Oh, I plan on the KPA500 this Fall sometime so make sure you make
one extra kit for me and the KAT500 of course when it is available.

I will be done buying when I run out of money or when you guys quit the
business -- whichever comes first. 

Keep up the good work.  Oh, I plan on the K2 but probably after I retire as
it is a bigger project.  Maybe I should buy that now?

73, phil, k7PEH


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 praise

2011-08-27 Thread Bill K9YEQ
All my equipment is supposed to go to the grave with me.  I have
suggested she sell it.  No... she is even suggesting selling the wire for
scrap!  :-)

73,
Bill
K9YEQ
-Original Message-
My XYL has been instructed to place my K1 in the box with me.
On Sat, Aug 27, 2011 at 5:01 PM, Rick Dettinger wrote:

 You can take my K1 when you pry it from my cold, dead fingers!


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[Elecraft] Good QRP practice?

2011-08-27 Thread John Flynn
Good Day Everyone,

In a recent discussion concering KX3 battery life, Wayne N6KR mentioned:

Transceive operating time from an internal battery will be determined by
voltage or energy-density limitations of the 8 AA cells being used. You'd
probably be transmitting something like 10% of the time (good QRP
practice).

I'm really new in amateur radio and even newer (if possible) in working QRP
with my KX1 and working on my skill set. My question is why is a 9:1 listen
to transmit ratio good QRP practice?

Tnx es 73

John KK4BOB

John Flynn
Tallahassee, Florida
USA
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Re: [Elecraft] Good QRP practice?

2011-08-27 Thread Matthew Pitts
Based on my own experiences in QRP, you need to be sure of what the other 
person's callsign is when using less than optimal antennas, so you need to 
listen to be sure you have things right; I missed making a contact at lunch a 
few weeks ago because I didn't catch the guy's call sign the first few times he 
gave it.

Matthew Pitts
N8OHU




From: John Flynn gio.fl...@gmail.com
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 6:25 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Good QRP practice?

Good Day Everyone,

In a recent discussion concering KX3 battery life, Wayne N6KR mentioned:

Transceive operating time from an internal battery will be determined by
voltage or energy-density limitations of the 8 AA cells being used. You'd
probably be transmitting something like 10% of the time (good QRP
practice).

I'm really new in amateur radio and even newer (if possible) in working QRP
with my KX1 and working on my skill set. My question is why is a 9:1 listen
to transmit ratio good QRP practice?

Tnx es 73

John KK4BOB

John Flynn
Tallahassee, Florida
USA
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[Elecraft] K3 filter setup

2011-08-27 Thread Mike Weir

I have seen lots of posts on the filter setup on the K3 with regards to gain 
and also changing the filter value entered compared to the value of the filter 
itself. I just installed the general coverage unit in the main receiver along 
with a 6khz filter. This brought me back to the filter setup question.  Just 
wanted to get some input from elecrafter's  and their filter setting setup's.  

My K3 filter line up is a follows:

Main 
2.7Khz  stock 5 pole crystal filter offset at -0.76

6Khz 8 pole inrad filter (I purchased this filter as the general coverage 
receiver is installed)

500hz 8 pole inrad filter

400hz 8 pole inrad filter

250hz 8 pole inrad filter

Sub
2.7Khz 5 pole cystal filer offset at -0.90

500hz 8 pole inrad filter 

400hz 8 pole inrad filter

250hz 8 pole inrad filter

One last question.In the main receiver where the general coverage unit has 
been installed I added the 6khz filter. For some reason I installed the 6khz 
flter after the 2.7 on the K3 board. I really don't want to take the radio all 
apart but if the 6khz should be in slot 1 then I will. 
Mike
VE3WDM
 

  
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Re: [Elecraft] Good QRP practice?

2011-08-27 Thread Oliver Dröse
That is no QRP problem, it is important whatever power you run to copy the 
other guy's callsign. ;-))

73, Olli - DH8BQA


- Original Message - 
From: Matthew Pitts daywalker_blade_2...@yahoo.com
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2011 12:32 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Good QRP practice?


 Based on my own experiences in QRP, you need to be sure of what the other 
 person's callsign is when using less than optimal antennas, so you need to 
 listen to be sure you have things right; I missed making a contact at 
 lunch a few weeks ago because I didn't catch the guy's call sign the first 
 few times he gave it.

 Matthew Pitts
 N8OHU

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Re: [Elecraft] Good QRP practice?

2011-08-27 Thread Fred Jensen
Good question John.  I think Wayne was proposing a bottom line 
estimate from a somewhat more complex problem.  There are a lot of 
variables to consider.  Morse code is scaled in dot-times [DT].  Dots 
and inter-element spaces are 1 DT each.  Dashes are 3 DT.  Letter spaces 
are 3 DT, and word spaces are nominally 7 DT [I think I've got that 
right].  At any rate, if you are sending Morse code, all those spaces 
are receive time [and current drain] and only the key down times are TX 
drain.

What that all means in terms of steady keying depends on what you are 
sending of course.  Then there is the really big factor:  When you 
choose to send something vs when you choose to listen.  When you're 
running 5W to a possibly compromised antenna, you will be doing quite a 
bit of listening, finding the right station and right time to call. 
There's no reason to call the station if he's being called by a big gun, 
it just wastes your RF.  The result is, your key is actually down [i.e. 
TX battery drain] in the general vicinity of 10%, give or take.

Good QRP Practice may be a little rigid a phrase, you're free to use 
the ampere-hours in your battery any way you choose, but successful 
QRP operation does require more listening and timing than 1.5 KW to a 6 
over 6 over 6 over 6 stack on 20 meters.  If that's your station, you're 
pretty much the BGOTB [Big Guy On The Band], everyone hears you.

73,

Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA

On 8/27/2011 3:25 PM, John Flynn wrote:

 I'm really new in amateur radio and even newer (if possible) in working QRP
 with my KX1 and working on my skill set. My question is why is a 9:1 listen
 to transmit ratio good QRP practice?
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Re: [Elecraft] Good QRP practice?

2011-08-27 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
It's not a hard-and-fast rule, John, nor is it limited to QRP. Good
operating practice is to listen more than talk. In a QSO you may talk as
much as the other station, for a 50-50 ratio. If you're long-winded, you may
exceed that, Hi!

But, when looking for a contact, take the time to listen to what is going on
around the band and especially on or near the frequency where you plan to
transmit if preparing to call CQ. Then, after asking if the frequency is
busy (send QRL? if using CW) and then calling CQ, listen far more than you
send. Even though most people will call you on the same frequency nowadays,
it often takes someone a while to 'tune up' on your frequency to call you. 

Some ops leave only a second or two between CQ's but it's usually more
productive to allow more time between calls. 

My Ham experience goes back to the days when most Hams used crystal control
and I keep the habit of tuning up and down a couple of kHz from my calling
frequency after each CQ. Even today, I'll occasionally get a call from a
crystal-controlled rig near my frequency, but not on it. That's especially
true around the common QRP frequencies. (I usually move to his freq as soon
as we hook up.)

Years ago we often spoke of certain Alligator Operators - all mouth and no
ears, Hi! They are still around.

The bottom line is to have fun and behave as if you are at a party where a
lot of conversations are going on. 

Now, contesting is another matter. Presumably the same rules apply but
exchanges are going fast and furious. In reality, a lot of people get rude,
stomping on other QSOs, calling without listening with their robo-stations,
etc. Personally, I stay out of bar room brawls in town and contests on the
Ham bands :-), but I know a lot of people have great fun with them.

73, 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
Good Day Everyone,

In a recent discussion concering KX3 battery life, Wayne N6KR mentioned:

Transceive operating time from an internal battery will be determined by
voltage or energy-density limitations of the 8 AA cells being used. You'd
probably be transmitting something like 10% of the time (good QRP
practice).

I'm really new in amateur radio and even newer (if possible) in working QRP
with my KX1 and working on my skill set. My question is why is a 9:1 listen
to transmit ratio good QRP practice?

Tnx es 73

John KK4BOB

John Flynn
Tallahassee, Florida
USA

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 OPER fault

2011-08-27 Thread Len Chesler
I received Beta FW version 1.11 from another reflector user and I installed it 
in My KPA500.  The Hi Pwr fault in OPER mode seems to have gone away!  
Hopefully this new FW will be openly available soon.  Conact me if you have any 
questions. Tnx. Len


 

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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB net announcement

2011-08-27 Thread Phillip Shepard
The weekly Elecraft SSB net will meet tomorrow (8/28/11) at 1800Z on 14.3035
MHz +/- QRM. I will be net control from western Oregon, and we'll
try relays to pull in the stations that I can't hear.  See you there.

73,

Phil, NS7P


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[Elecraft] An Antenna Problem I Can't Figure Out

2011-08-27 Thread Bill Drobnes
I am trying to temporarily use a 20 m Hamstick on my
Outbacker  tripod.  The base I am using checks out fine with
nothing attached. In other words, the top where the antenna screws in shorts
with the pin on the UHF connector on the bottom of the base and is isolated
from the tripod. When I connect a non-terminated coax to the base connector
everything continues to check out as above. However, as soon as I connect the
other end of the coax to ANT 1 of the K3, everything is shorted together (the
top where the antenna screws in shorts with the tripod) and the KPA500 shows
infinite SWR. The Hamstick folks couldn’t figure it out and HRO here in Phoenix
was kind enough to exchange the Hamstick for another, with no effect. Any ideas
and/or explanations? Thanks and 73, Bill N4IEZ / F4WAE


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Re: [Elecraft] An Antenna Problem I Can't Figure Out

2011-08-27 Thread Dale Putnam

Hi Bill,
  Just to be sure I understand, With the coax connected to the tripod, the 
antenna connected to the tripod, with the only connection left to connect would 
be the coax to the radio... if you measure across the coax there is no short? 
And there is conductivity from the pin to the antenna? 
Just making sure I understand,
Thanks,

--... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy
 

 Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 18:34:32 -0700
 From: bdrob...@yahoo.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] An Antenna Problem I Can't Figure Out
 
 I am trying to temporarily use a 20 m Hamstick on my
 Outbacker  tripod.  The base I am using checks out fine with
 nothing attached. In other words, the top where the antenna screws in shorts
 with the pin on the UHF connector on the bottom of the base and is isolated
 from the tripod. When I connect a non-terminated coax to the base connector
 everything continues to check out as above. However, as soon as I connect the
 other end of the coax to ANT 1 of the K3, everything is shorted together (the
 top where the antenna screws in shorts with the tripod) and the KPA500 shows
 infinite SWR. The Hamstick folks couldn’t figure it out and HRO here in 
 Phoenix
 was kind enough to exchange the Hamstick for another, with no effect. Any 
 ideas
 and/or explanations? Thanks and 73, Bill N4IEZ / F4WAE
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment Part II

2011-08-27 Thread Don Wilhelm
David,

Bypass that - that initial 4 MHz Oscillator Test is just to make 
certain the 4 MHz oscillator is working.
What you are doing is comparing the 4 MHz oscillator output to what the 
firmware thinks is a 4 MHz source.  So as long as it is oscillating, 
the test will always pass.

If calibration of the 4 MHz oscillator is your goal, and you have the K2 
capable of receiving WWV (or some other station of known frequency), go 
to my website www.w3fpr.com and look at the K2 Dial Calibration 
article.  The N6KR method will provide you with precise setting of C22 
with no external equipment, and that method compensates for any 
variables in the various oscillators involved.

The use of Spectrogram or other audio spectrum analyzer software to 
detect the tones transmitted by WWV is strongly recommended.  Tuning to 
the standard station correctly is the key to success when using that 
procedure.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/27/2011 3:30 PM, David Dietrich wrote:
 Hi Everyone!

 I am starting the second part of the K2 alignment.  I went and redid the 
 first part of the alignment because I tweaked R1 by accident.  Some of the 
 numbers came out different than the last time because I had more stuff on the 
 board.

 I do have a question about the 4 MHz Oscillator Calibration:

 This may sound like a stupid question, but what am I supposed to be listening 
 for on my receiver when I zero-beat to the crystal?  I am hearing a tone, and 
 it changes when I adjust C22, but I am not sure to what tone I need to adjust 
 it to.

 Any clarification on this would be great!

 Thanks  73,

 David
 KC9EHQ
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Re: [Elecraft] An Antenna Problem I Can't Figure Out

2011-08-27 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
This sounds like a PL259 on one or the other end that is incorrectly dressed
and soldered.  I would guess something wrong in the PL259 that attaches to
the K3.  Before you throw the K3 in the drink, use a different piece of
coax.  All it takes is a very small gap that does not show up on an
analyzer, but is arced across by 100 watts, or a short that makes contact
when you bend it to get to the K3, or yada, yada, yada.

Mechanical problems with coax, plugs, jumpers, cords and adapters, etc. are
by far the most common problem with ham setups.

73, Guy.

On Sat, Aug 27, 2011 at 9:44 PM, Dale Putnam daleput...@hotmail.com wrote:


 Hi Bill,
  Just to be sure I understand, With the coax connected to the tripod, the
 antenna connected to the tripod, with the only connection left to connect
 would be the coax to the radio... if you measure across the coax there is no
 short? And there is conductivity from the pin to the antenna?
 Just making sure I understand,
 Thanks,

 --... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy


  Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 18:34:32 -0700
  From: bdrob...@yahoo.com
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: [Elecraft] An Antenna Problem I Can't Figure Out
 
  I am trying to temporarily use a 20 m Hamstick on my
  Outbacker  tripod.  The base I am using checks out fine with
  nothing attached. In other words, the top where the antenna screws in
 shorts
  with the pin on the UHF connector on the bottom of the base and is
 isolated
  from the tripod. When I connect a non-terminated coax to the base
 connector
  everything continues to check out as above. However, as soon as I connect
 the
  other end of the coax to ANT 1 of the K3, everything is shorted together
 (the
  top where the antenna screws in shorts with the tripod) and the KPA500
 shows
  infinite SWR. The Hamstick folks couldn’t figure it out and HRO here in
 Phoenix
  was kind enough to exchange the Hamstick for another, with no effect. Any
 ideas
  and/or explanations? Thanks and 73, Bill N4IEZ / F4WAE
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] An Antenna Problem I Can't Figure Out

2011-08-27 Thread Bill Drobnes
Thanks Guy.The coax and connectors seem to check out OK, and I switched the 
coax with a brand new one and got the same result.Also,  this coax worked fine 
with a Yaesu ATAS 120 antenna I sold (unfortunately) last weekend.73, Bill





--- On Sun, 8/28/11, Guy Olinger K2AV olin...@bellsouth.net wrote:

From: Guy Olinger K2AV olin...@bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] An Antenna Problem I Can't Figure Out
To: Dale Putnam daleput...@hotmail.com
Cc: bdrob...@yahoo.com, elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Sunday, August 28, 2011, 3:57 AM

This sounds like a PL259 on one or the other end that is incorrectly dressed 
and soldered.  I would guess something wrong in the PL259 that attaches to the 
K3.  Before you throw the K3 in the drink, use a different piece of coax.  All 
it takes is a very small gap that does not show up on an analyzer, but is arced 
across by 100 watts, or a short that makes contact when you bend it to get to 
the K3, or yada, yada, yada.  

Mechanical problems with coax, plugs, jumpers, cords and adapters, etc. are by 
far the most common problem with ham setups. 
73, Guy.

On Sat, Aug 27, 2011 at 9:44 PM, Dale Putnam daleput...@hotmail.com wrote:



Hi Bill,

  Just to be sure I understand, With the coax connected to the tripod, the 
antenna connected to the tripod, with the only connection left to connect would 
be the coax to the radio... if you measure across the coax there is no short? 
And there is conductivity from the pin to the antenna?


Just making sure I understand,

Thanks,



--... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy





 Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 18:34:32 -0700

 From: bdrob...@yahoo.com

 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net

 Subject: [Elecraft] An Antenna Problem I Can't Figure Out



 I am trying to temporarily use a 20 m Hamstick on my

 Outbacker  tripod.  The base I am using checks out fine with

 nothing attached. In other words, the top where the antenna screws in shorts

 with the pin on the UHF connector on the bottom of the base and is isolated

 from the tripod. When I connect a non-terminated coax to the base connector

 everything continues to check out as above. However, as soon as I connect the

 other end of the coax to ANT 1 of the K3, everything is shorted together (the

 top where the antenna screws in shorts with the tripod) and the KPA500 shows

 infinite SWR. The Hamstick folks couldn’t figure it out and HRO here in 
 Phoenix

 was kind enough to exchange the Hamstick for another, with no effect. Any 
 ideas

 and/or explanations? Thanks and 73, Bill N4IEZ / F4WAE





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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2011-08-27 Thread Kevin Rock
Good Evening,
Another week of summer weather.  It is nice to finally have warm days  
and not so cool nights.  Almost a month since I last needed to heat the  
house too.  Looks like next week will have some rain and cold days but  
mostly it will be high 60s and sunny.  Summer was late in arriving but it  
feels nice.  Now the fire danger is rising until the rain.  An inch of  
rain would be nice right now.  Fire danger would go down and the berry  
crops would enjoy a shower.

The later start time for the forty meter net worked well.  This week  
the time for it will remain at 0100z.  Remember the frequencies are just  
guidelines.  The actual frequency depends upon whether I can hear anyone  
on the main frequency when I get started.  If I did then I will move up or  
down by 0.5 kHz until I find an open frequency.  My normal order for  
alternates is up 0.5 kHzz then down 0.5 kHz.  If neither of those works  
then it is up 1 kHz and followed by down 1 kHz all from the original  
starting point.

If anyone is interested in acting as a relay station on either net  
please email me.  I will turn the net over to you for a few minutes so you  
can call areas in my skip zone.  It sure would prove helpful to those I  
cannot reach directly.

Please join us tomorrow afternoon and evening.

1) Hail signs  (first letter or two of the suffix of your call)
2) NCS help  (as well as QSP/QNP relay help)

Sunday 2200z (Sunday 3 PM PDT) 14050 kHz
Monday 0100z (Sunday 6 PM PDT)  7045 kHz

   Stay well,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS

-
 
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Re: [Elecraft] An Antenna Problem I Can't Figure Out

2011-08-27 Thread Don Wilhelm
Bill,


What is the results if you connect the antenna to the K3 (without the 
KPA500).
Even though it may show a DC short, that may be only at the DC 
measurement.  At RF, what is the impedance.  An antenna analyzer 
measurement may be helpful in determining the actual impedance at frequency.

Bottom line - if the antenna analyzer indicates something near 50 ohms 
resistive, either the K3 or the KPA500 should operate into it with no 
problem.

Look for coax connections that are not tight - finger tight is not good 
enough for UHF connectors.  What will be OK at low power levels may not 
be OK when the power is increased to 100 or 500 watts.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/27/2011 9:34 PM, Bill Drobnes wrote:
 I am trying to temporarily use a 20 m Hamstick on my
 Outbacker  tripod.  The base I am using checks out fine with
 nothing attached. In other words, the top where the antenna screws in shorts
 with the pin on the UHF connector on the bottom of the base and is isolated
 from the tripod. When I connect a non-terminated coax to the base connector
 everything continues to check out as above. However, as soon as I connect the
 other end of the coax to ANT 1 of the K3, everything is shorted together (the
 top where the antenna screws in shorts with the tripod) and the KPA500 shows
 infinite SWR. The Hamstick folks couldn’t figure it out and HRO here in 
 Phoenix
 was kind enough to exchange the Hamstick for another, with no effect. Any 
 ideas
 and/or explanations? Thanks and 73, Bill N4IEZ / F4WAE
   
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Re: [Elecraft] An Antenna Problem I Can't Figure Out

2011-08-27 Thread Ted Bryant

Have you checked it with an antenna analyzer like an MFJ? That will show where 
your setup is resonant.  Is the tripod sitting on grass or concrete?? It must 
be on grass or dirt to work properly.

73, Ted W4NZ


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]On Behalf Of Bill Drobnes
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2011 10:06 PM
To: Dale Putnam; Guy Olinger K2AV
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] An Antenna Problem I Can't Figure Out


Thanks Guy.The coax and connectors seem to check out OK, and I switched the 
coax with a brand new one and got the same result.Also,  this coax worked fine 
with a Yaesu ATAS 120 antenna I sold (unfortunately) last weekend.73, Bill





--- On Sun, 8/28/11, Guy Olinger K2AV olin...@bellsouth.net wrote:

From: Guy Olinger K2AV olin...@bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] An Antenna Problem I Can't Figure Out
To: Dale Putnam daleput...@hotmail.com
Cc: bdrob...@yahoo.com, elecraft@mailman.qth.net elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Sunday, August 28, 2011, 3:57 AM

This sounds like a PL259 on one or the other end that is incorrectly dressed 
and soldered.  I would guess something wrong in the PL259 that attaches to the 
K3.  Before you throw the K3 in the drink, use a different piece of coax.  All 
it takes is a very small gap that does not show up on an analyzer, but is arced 
across by 100 watts, or a short that makes contact when you bend it to get to 
the K3, or yada, yada, yada.  

Mechanical problems with coax, plugs, jumpers, cords and adapters, etc. are by 
far the most common problem with ham setups. 
73, Guy.

On Sat, Aug 27, 2011 at 9:44 PM, Dale Putnam daleput...@hotmail.com wrote:



Hi Bill,

  Just to be sure I understand, With the coax connected to the tripod, the 
antenna connected to the tripod, with the only connection left to connect would 
be the coax to the radio... if you measure across the coax there is no short? 
And there is conductivity from the pin to the antenna?


Just making sure I understand,

Thanks,



--... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy



 Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2011 18:34:32 -0700

 From: bdrob...@yahoo.com

 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net

 Subject: [Elecraft] An Antenna Problem I Can't Figure Out



 I am trying to temporarily use a 20 m Hamstick on my

 Outbacker  tripod.  The base I am using checks out fine with

 nothing attached. In other words, the top where the antenna screws in shorts

 with the pin on the UHF connector on the bottom of the base and is isolated

 from the tripod. When I connect a non-terminated coax to the base connector

 everything continues to check out as above. However, as soon as I connect the

 other end of the coax to ANT 1 of the K3, everything is shorted together (the

 top where the antenna screws in shorts with the tripod) and the KPA500 shows

 infinite SWR. The Hamstick folks couldn’t figure it out and HRO here in 
 Phoenix

 was kind enough to exchange the Hamstick for another, with no effect. Any 
 ideas

 and/or explanations? Thanks and 73, Bill N4IEZ / F4WAE




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