The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 14 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: M Coupe Info Re: M Coupe Info TechFest East Reston VA May 13-16, 2004 Savvy radio traffic reporter [E46] 2001 325i for sale Found an M3-Update Re: Found an M3-Update Re: Found an M3-Update Re: Found an M3-Update <WTB> E36 M3 tweeters <e34> Front bumper / spoiler options & lights Re: <e34> Front bumper / spoiler options & lights Radio serial # ? Re: Radio serial # ? Re: Radio serial # ?
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 12:26:19 -0800 From: "Kevin Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW BMW BMW BMW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: M Coupe Info Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> A friend just bought a 2000 M Coupe. Can anyone recommend any web sites with good M Coupe related information? Kevin Kelly BMW CCA 50039 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 23:43:24 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: M Coupe Info Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> www.368s.com Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > > A friend just bought a 2000 M Coupe. > > Can anyone recommend any web sites with good M Coupe related information? > > Kevin Kelly > BMW CCA 50039 > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.573 / Virus Database: 363 - Release Date: 1/28/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 23:28:41 -0500 From: Steven Schlossman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: ///uucdigest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: TechFest East Reston VA May 13-16, 2004 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Originally established in 1981, Gateway Tech was an annual gathering hosted by the St. Louis BMW Club for those BMW enthusiasts who wanted to delve just a little deeper into the technology behind their Ultimate Driving Machine�. Every year for more than 20 years, the faithful took over a St. Louis hotel and filled it with BMW cars, gadgets and gearheads for three straight days, which included tech sessions, social gatherings, a showroom/vendor area, and a BMW CCA Club Race. Beginning with 2003, the event went mobile, with a different chapter being asked to host the event each year. The Los Angeles chapter was honored in 2003 with being the host chapter for the first event held outside of St. Louis and now the National Capital Chapter welcomes you to the Mid-Atlantic region in 2004. This event will be held at the Hyatt Regency Reston in Reston Virgina near Dulles Airport and 23 miles west of Washington DC. Full 4 day registration $150.00. 2 days of technical seminars (Friday, Saturday and Sunday morning), lunch Friday and Saturday. Welcome Reception Thursday evening. Dinner Friday and Saturday evenings. Door prizes, key note speakers. First Class Hyatt Hotel just $119/single. Make your reservations now! http://www.nccbmwcca.org/techfesteast/ Some of the technical sessions we are working on -Basic Cosmetics - Car Care OnLine, Larry Reynolds -Basic Maintenance Q&A - CCA Tech Service Advisors -Paintless Dent Repair - Wagonwork, Matt McNally -Leather Care, Preservation, Restoration - Leatherique, George Pavlisko -Tire Manufacturers Rep Forum -DIY Brake Pads - Curry's Auto Service, Chris Coulter -Electrical Fundamentals, Troubleshooting - Bentley Publishers, Charlie Burke -How Breaks der Bimmer: Ways BMW Parts Fail - Terry Sayther, Grant Randall -Modern Lubricants -BMW's New Technology, including DSC, Active Steering - BMW NA Expert -Open Q&A Forums - BMW CCA Tech Service Advisors -Typical Rust Problems - Mike Self -Finding Parts for Old BMWs - BMW Mobile Tradition, Maximillian Importing -Restorations: Classic & High Performance - Korman Autoworks, Ray Korman -Software Upgrades -Suspension Upgrades:Street to Track - Road Race Technologies, Barry Battle -Suspension Upgrades:Track to Race - Ground Control, Jay Morris -Track Safety Gear: HANS, Helmets, Harness, Seats - HMS Motorsport -Brake Upgrades -Club Racing: How to Get Started - BMW CCA Club Racing -Club Racing: How to Race - BMW CCA Club Racing -Race Car Prep -Cylinder Heads - Memphis Motorwerks, Leo Goff -E30 M3 Engine Rebuilds, the Right Way - Precision Performance, Pete McHenry -Swapping in Bigger Bimmer Engines - Precision Performance, Pete McHenry -Turbo Charging - Active Autowerke, Karl Hugh -Supercharging -- ...steven 2003 MCS EB/W 1996 328ti ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2004 21:19:10 -0800 From: Erick Baumeister <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Savvy radio traffic reporter Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Heard this afternoon amidst all the drudgery of a Sacramento newsradio traffic report, describing the accident aftermath of a midday street racing incident: "Apparently, at the ramp corner, the driver ran out of brakes, pavement and IDEAS all at the same time." Best chuckle I've gotten out of a traffic report since KCBS used to describe the Bay Bridge approach as being backed up "to Montana". Erick Baumeister ex-535i Current Subaru Forester, Beetle TDI Auburn,CA ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 10:49:13 -0500 From: "Andrew E. Skopp" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [E46] 2001 325i for sale Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Posting this for my good friend, Steve. I know the car and the owner, and I can vouch for both. 2001 325i. Metallic dark green with a tan leather interior. 22,000 miles; still under factory warranty. 1 owner. Automatic transmission. Premium package. Winter package. Harmon Kardon sound. Excellent condition. No accidents, no paintwork, no smoking. Car is located in the Baltimore, Annapolis, D.C. area. Asking $23,500; motivated to sell; moving. Please contact Steve directly at [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks much Andrew E. Skopp 98 M3/4 (also for sale to make space for M5) ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 13:07:36 -0500 From: "Harold Spingarn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Found an M3-Update Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> About 6 weeks ago, I posted some questions about buying an M3 that a friend was selling. I finally bought it last Sunday. One of the things that was delaying the test drive/buying decision was that the PO wanted to get new tires for the car before he sold it to me. (really!) Apparently, Pilot Sports were next to impossible to get for the car, hence the delay. In fact, he had to prove that he was the original owner to get the rears. Furthermore, we in the Northeast have been blessed with interminably bad weather lately, and with all the salt on NJ roads, neither he nor I wanted to take the car out to play. (Evidently he hand washes the car weekly, and didn't want to chance it. Music to my ears.) Now the car is resting comfortably in my garage, awaiting nicer weather so that I can start doing some work on it. In reply to my query, I now know that it will need a radiator, and I'm told that it needs new front shocks. The PO also said that it needs rear springs to bring the ride height back up to spec. Question #1: What is the general consensus regarding spring replacement for a 96 M3? Please keep in mind that I will NOT be tracking this car. Therefore, a race suspension is not sought after. Been there, still doing that on another car. I figure if I'm replacing the rear springs and I'll have the fronts out of the car for shocks, might as well replace them all. My replacement choices as I see it are H&R, Eibach, and Factory Stock. Others? Question #2: Bilstein vs. Koni. The car has new Bilstein rear shocks, so that might answer the question already. I'm sure that I'll have more questions in the future, but I'll try the archives and search functions first... Many, many thanks to Marco Romani and Alex Cagann for their advice. While I have owned BMW's for awhile, this is my first M3. I certainly appreciate all the support and help. Harold Spingarn 72Tii couple of 911's Tow vehicle 96 M3 Now all mine!! ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 13:39:13 -0500 From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Found an M3-Update Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Harold Spingarn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Start here http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm Everything you have asked has been discussed at length on that list since the E36 M3 has been around. Searching the archieves will give you more info and opinions than you want, lol Take some of it with a grain of salt though, as some folks are limited in what upgrades they choose and most tend to always like what they spent money on. Racers, track guys and most shop folks tend to have the right mind set for valueable opinions. As to your suspension replacement, I would either use stock, stock euro M3 springs or Eibachs, which are rated nearly the same. The difference between the 3 is less than 10%. Would try to find other cars to drive with both shocks, some like Koni's, some like Bilstein. I have had bad luck with Koni's in the past, never had a problem with my Bilsteins. For a daily driven M3, I prefer stock myself. The E36 M3 is one of the few cars that came from the factory nearly perfect, also the reason it was awarded the best handling car, at any price several years ago. For fun, I would change the alignment and camber on the front end to take out some of the understeer, but that is a personal choice thing. As to him having to prove he was the orginal owner on a 1996! M3 to get a set of rear tires? I would have told them to shove them somewhere and bought something else. Completely crazy. Pilot Sports are not the best tire out there to begin with, much less what they cost to go thru a hassle like that. Mike ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 13:56:02 -0500 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Found an M3-Update Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Harold Spingarn wrote: > One of the things that was delaying the > test drive/buying decision was that the PO wanted to get new tires for the > car before he sold it to me. (really!) Apparently, Pilot Sports were next to > impossible to get for the car, hence the delay. In fact, he had to prove > that he was the original owner to get the rears. this is some sort of story, since the stock rears on a '96 E36 M3 are a 245/40-17, which is an incredibly common size for tires, the Pilot Sport included. if by some chance the car had the older (and better in the dry worse in the wet) Michelin SX MXX3, the tires are basically unavailable currently, so I guess if he was really keen on getting two of those it might have taken him a long time. congrats on the new car. Ben ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 13:09:46 -0800 From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Harold Spingarn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Found an M3-Update Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Harold, I agree with the suggestion to keep the stock springs, and change the alignment a bit. However just switching the front tires to the readily available stock '95 size of 235/40 will cure some of the inherent understeer that BMW's lawyers insist on. Better than the 235/40 is the new 245/35x17 that the Goodyear F1 comes in. Recently installed them and they're as good a daily driver street tire as I could imagine. Their smaller diameter will lower the front 1/2 inch. For trire pressure, scrape that sticker of the door pillar right now. For both better handling and to protect against dented rims, I use 40+psi on the front and 36+psi on the rear. Remove the air restrictor cone from the air filter box, if the previous owner didn't do that already. I removed it from mine before I drove off the dealer's lot. Also when changing struts, install the 'crash bolts' listed on the ETK for the horizontal mounting of the hub to the strut tube. These smaller diameter bolts give you another degree of negative camber. Not the purists way but at less than 1% of the cost, and since you're not tracking the car, no need to worry about the slight change in scrub radius it will cause. I think you may not need to replace the rear springs. Current factory springs hold true extremely well over time, and if you've noticed less wheel well gap on the rear than the front, its by design. I installed Konis shortly after buying the car new in '97 and never had problems. You can leave out the rubber front springs pads when reassembling to drop the front a touch. The Koni reputation developed in the past with their older non-gas shocks and struts, and also due to clowns cranking the adjustments full firm thinking they would handle better. If over 50k miles on the car, replace the Rear Trailing Arm Bushings. Some consider this an immediate essential replacement. Add the Ground Control shims when you do this. Also replace the front control arm bushings with the solid rubber ones that have only a tiny gap between the tail of the arm and the bushing holder. I was suprised mine came from the factory with the wiggly wobbly bushings same as the other E36 get. Congrats on getting the //M3. you made the right choice. Barry Harold Spingarn wrote: >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >About 6 weeks ago, I posted some questions about buying an M3 that a friend >was selling. >I finally bought it last Sunday. One of the things that was delaying the >test drive/buying decision was that the PO wanted to get new tires for the >car before he sold it to me. (really!) Apparently, Pilot Sports were next to >impossible to get for the car, hence the delay. In fact, he had to prove >that he was the original owner to get the rears. Furthermore, we in the >Northeast have been blessed with interminably bad weather lately, and with >all the salt on NJ roads, neither he nor I wanted to take the car out to >play. >(Evidently he hand washes the car weekly, and didn't want to chance it. >Music to my ears.) >Now the car is resting comfortably in my garage, awaiting nicer weather so >that I can start doing some work on it. In reply to my query, I now know >that it will need a radiator, and I'm told that it needs new front shocks. >The PO also said that it needs rear springs to bring the ride height back up >to spec. >Question #1: What is the general consensus regarding spring replacement for >a 96 M3? Please keep in mind that I will NOT be tracking this car. >Therefore, a race suspension is not sought after. Been there, still doing >that on another car. I figure if I'm replacing the rear springs and I'll >have the fronts out of the car for shocks, might as well replace them all. >My replacement choices as I see it are H&R, Eibach, and Factory Stock. >Others? >Question #2: Bilstein vs. Koni. The car has new Bilstein rear shocks, so >that might answer the question already. > >I'm sure that I'll have more questions in the future, but I'll try the >archives and search functions first... > >Many, many thanks to Marco Romani and Alex Cagann for their advice. > >While I have owned BMW's for awhile, this is my first M3. I certainly >appreciate all the support and help. > >Harold Spingarn >72Tii >couple of 911's >Tow vehicle >96 M3 Now all mine!! > > > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2004 03:58:30 +0700 From: "Sean Cordone" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <WTB> E36 M3 tweeters Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi all -it's been awhile. Anybody have any E36 M3 tweeters (w/ black mounting bezels) laying around? Fried or unknown state is ok as long as cosmetics are good. I recently put some a/d/s gear in my M3/4. The a/d/s tweeter mounts don't have quite the same footprint as the stock ones, so they look a bit sloppy in the door panels. Fortuitously however, the a/d/s driver fits perfectly in the mounting cup for the stock tweeter when the stock driver is removed, but unfortunately one of my stock mounting cups is cracked. Feel free to reply offline. Thanks, --SC -- _____________________________________________________________ Web-based SMS services available at http://www.operamail.com. >From your mailbox to local or overseas cell phones. Powered by Outblaze ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 14:35:13 -0800 (PST) From: John Stewart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <e34> Front bumper / spoiler options & lights Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I killed a poor defenseless raccoon on the way to work, and it killed my front bumper / valance. I'm looking for suggestions on a replacement. I know about OEM and Schnitzer. What other options would you recommend? On another vaguely related note, I spend a lot of time on two lane country roads ~70 miles a day. (Actually I enjoy spending as little time as possible on these roads.) I'm evaluating upgrading the lights from the standard lenses to an ellipsoid version. I can buy OEM US ellipsoid low-beam lenses and do the tricky bulb upgrade for about the same price as ebay China or India made "European" ellipsoid low-&-high-beam sets. Which will provide the best nighttime vision? John 1993 525i ===== end [EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online. http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 17:46:55 -0500 From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <e34> Front bumper / spoiler options & lights Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Stewart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: [UUC] <e34> Front bumper / spoiler options & lights > I killed a poor defenseless raccoon on the way to > work, and it killed my front bumper / valance. I'm > looking for suggestions on a replacement. I know > about OEM and Schnitzer. What other options would you > recommend? OEM M5 is a good choice and will always look "right". This may be the same as what came on late-run 525iT, along with the sideskirts and rear valance. I don't think I've seen any aftermarket bodywork that looked really clean, although Hartge is closest. > On another vaguely related note, I spend a lot of time > on two lane country roads ~70 miles a day. (Actually > I enjoy spending as little time as possible on these > roads.) I'm evaluating upgrading the lights from the > standard lenses to an ellipsoid version. I can buy > OEM US ellipsoid low-beam lenses and do the tricky > bulb upgrade for about the same price as ebay China or > India made "European" ellipsoid low-&-high-beam sets. > Which will provide the best nighttime vision? Go with OEM ellipsoid. The only "tricky bulbs" you should consider are genuine HIDs, anything else is worthless. - Rob ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 06 Feb 2004 20:55:01 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Radio serial # ? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi, I remember a while back someone posted a maneuver to find out the radio's serial # w/o removal. Anyone know how to do this? Thanks Evan ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 21:11:22 -0500 From: "Karl Zemlin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "'E36M3'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Radio serial # ? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Pulling the radio out is so extremely simple - just do it. I think a 2.5mm allen wrench is all you need. Flip the little tabs out on the bezel - loosen the socket head screws that are back there. Loosen them as far as they will go without CRANKING on them. The radio just slides out and all the wires stay connected. Find the number and write it down. Slide the radio back in and tighten up the screws (just snug is all they need to be). Total elapsed time - about 3 minutes. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, February 06, 2004 8:55 PM To: E36M3; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] Radio serial # ? Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi, I remember a while back someone posted a maneuver to find out the radio's serial # w/o removal. Anyone know how to do this? Thanks Evan __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2004 22:11:24 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Radio serial # ? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Radio too is (until E39) a 5 sided pentagonal tool. A 2.5mm Allen key will work, but will butcher the screw heads. Do it right, or don't do it at all. Radio tool is available from your BMW dealer or dozens of online stores for less than $15. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > Pulling the radio out is so extremely simple - just do it. I > think a 2.5mm > allen wrench is all you need. Flip the little tabs out on the bezel - > loosen the socket head screws that are back there. Loosen them as far as > they will go without CRANKING on them. The radio just slides out and all > the wires stay connected. Find the number and write it down. > > Slide the radio back in and tighten up the screws (just snug is all they > need to be). Total elapsed time - about 3 minutes. > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.573 / Virus Database: 363 - Release Date: 1/28/2004 ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
