The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 85 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: distilled water or not?) No red 645i convertible Re: Lug Bolts for SSR Competition Wheels - Will OEM Fit? Re: Lug Bolts for SSR Competition Wheels - Will OEM Fit? Clutch MC Shortage? Re: E46 Understeer E36 steering rack in E30 Re: E36 steering rack in E30 Re: E36 steering rack in E30 E30 stub axle installation problem Re: E30 stub axle installation problem <E36> Valve cover replacement thoughts ADMIN: Spoof emails from uucdigest Dropped screw HUH? E39 versus E46 luggage capacity
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 18:15:26 -0800 From: "Reed" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: distilled water or not?) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Oh, I see, you're just late catching up with my messages! I'm not sure about the Perrier, but I bet some experts on here will chime in soon. Reed ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 2:37 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] distilled water or not?) > It's about time. > Now, is Perrier distilled? > ;-) > Jay > ****** > Reed finally wrote: > > Okay, okay, I give up! I'm using Perrier from now on! I'll be > driving the > > same damn car in 2054! > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 18:17:56 -0800 From: "Bora Akyol (BMW)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: No red 645i convertible Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I stopped by the dealer today and was surprised to see that there are no red 6XX convertibles available. There is a red that is kind of like dark burgundy but no Imola Red or anything close. IMHO, the 6 series cars would look great in Imola Red :-) Bora -- 89 M3 JP race car Cinnabar Red -- 03 Mitsubishi Evo 8 Rally Red ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 16:33:20 -1000 From: Jay G <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Lug Bolts for SSR Competition Wheels - Will OEM Fit? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> interesting...i was sent a set of new lug bolts with my ssr comps, which were exactly the same as the stockers, but in chrome instead of black...but the size, taper, threads were all identical to the stock lug bolts... maybe different lugs are required for ssr comps other than the 17x8/8.5 for E36s??? ----- Original Message ----- From: "The Corbs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Thanks Jay. They look fine to me too. > > Interestingly the Tirerack is saying that SSR specifics are required. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 21:57:45 -0500 From: "The Corbs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Lug Bolts for SSR Competition Wheels - Will OEM Fit? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Huh. Was that from the Tire Rack? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jay G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Saturday, March 13, 2004 9:33 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] Lug Bolts for SSR Competition Wheels - Will OEM Fit? > interesting...i was sent a set of new lug bolts with my ssr comps, which > were exactly the same as the stockers, but in chrome instead of black...but > the size, taper, threads were all identical to the stock lug bolts... > > maybe different lugs are required for ssr comps other than the 17x8/8.5 for > E36s??? > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "The Corbs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > > > Thanks Jay. They look fine to me too. > > > > Interestingly the Tirerack is saying that SSR specifics are required. > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: 13 Mar 2004 19:01:26 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Clutch MC Shortage? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I called a couple of local dealers for a 21-52-6-750-546, which I think is the clutch master cylinder for most (all?) E36s. Neither had it in stock, which seems strange for such a common replacement part. Is there something odd going on with this part? Curt Ingraham Oakland, CA ------------------------------ Date: 14 Mar 2004 06:38:38 -0000 From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E46 Understeer Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > So is it me, or has anybody found that the e46's qualify as "plowing > pigs" in the handling department? The factory set-up is much less aggressive than on the E36. I have driven some fairly well modified E46s and have been duly impressed. The same stuff that applies to the E36 applies here. That said, you asked for cheap changes to balance the car out. Here's what I did on our E46 330iPP: - Change toe settings - I used the same general settings as I do on my M3, which are 0 front toe and just a hair of toe in in the rear. I doin't remember the stock settings, but they weren't close. I didn't change camber (even though you can) only because it never sees anythign but highways so i didn't want to adversely affect tire wear. - Change tire pressures - I found on the E36 that the Pilot Sports like a lower pressure, so I set front/rear in the same range on the E46 and set up a 2-degree difference (lower) in the rear, Seems to help rotation. It still plows, only now you can get the rear to rotate to compensate. The change that has the biggest effect is tire. For giggles, I ran the 330i on the street one day with the 255/35-18 R-compounds off of the racecar. Didn't understeer under aggressive street driving. ;-) Unless you want to start looking at suspension, your best thing to do is upgrade the wheels and tires. you should be able to comfortably fit 255's all the way around without a problem. Should make it more than adequate for highway use. -peter*g ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 08:53:47 +0000 From: "Gregory Bradbury" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: E36 steering rack in E30 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> For all E30 fans there is a VERY well done German site, E30.de, provided you speak / read German. One VERY good idea I found there is a "poor man's solution" for quicker steering on the E30. A std E30 is nearly 4.5 turns lock to lock. The common upgrade is to use an M3 E30 steering gear with a quicker ratio. The (natural) bad part is the price of the steering gear. This article lists a more practical solution, E36 steering racks !! Seems they are quite the same, mounting points the same, but you may need to redo the hydraulic lines, the U joint angle for the steering shaft is a bit more tilted and you might benefit from a thicker rubber disc. He was also concerned about clearable from the rack to the oil pan, not a problem on the M20 cars (according to him) but perhaps on others (335i or E30 M5 conversions are not unheard of in Germany). The ratio table the fellow who wrote this up is: E30 20.5:1 E30 M3 19.6:1 E36 16.8:1 E36 M3 (only 3.0) 14.9:1 No problem with rack boots, nor tie rod ends however. Anyone every do this, or have any experience with this? Gregory in Geneva _________________________________________________________________ Tired of spam? Get advanced junk mail protection with MSN 8. http://join.msn.com/?page=features/junkmail ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 11:27:22 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E36 steering rack in E30 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I wonder if that German web site is a copy of the Zionsville Autosport conversion CD that they sell. Zionsville pioneered this idea in the US back in the early 90's. www.zionsvilleautosport.com Could just be coincidence of course, I'm sure others have worked it out by themselves. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > For all E30 fans there is a VERY well done German site, E30.de, > provided you > speak / read German. One VERY good idea I found there is a "poor man's > solution" for quicker steering on the E30. > > A std E30 is nearly 4.5 turns lock to lock. The common upgrade > is to use an > M3 E30 steering gear with a quicker ratio. The (natural) bad part is the > price of the steering gear. > > This article lists a more practical solution, E36 steering racks > Gregory in Geneva > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 11:37:57 -0500 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 steering rack in E30 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gregory, These folks sell kits here in the US and sell the information on a CD, as well: <http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com/store/shop.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=6134&Product_Code=E30SRC> Ed Gregory Bradbury wrote: > Anyone every do this, or have any experience with this? ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 07:49:26 -0500 From: "Pharr, Jeff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E30 stub axle installation problem Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've run into a bit of trouble with a rear axle repair project on my '89 E30 iX. The original was removed using a puller to push the stub axle out of the hub (per Bentley). Bentley says the installation is the reverse, yada yada, but there is obviously no way to use the same puller to install the new part. After digging around a bit, it looked like I just needed to drive the new part into the hub far enough to get the hub nut on there and then use that to pull it the rest of the way in. I managed to drive it in almost to the point where I can get to the threads before it simply started pushing off the hub itself. So now I'm stuck: stub axle not far enough in to get a nut on the threads (maybe need another 1/4 inch or so) and the hub has now been pushed out a 1/2 inch or so. BTW, the splines were clean and rust free and I lubed them with a thin coat of bearing grease before getting started. Any thoughts on how to get myself out of this little bind? Thanks in advance for the wisdom. --Jeff ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 11:29:31 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E30 stub axle installation problem Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Start with a new wheel bearing to replace the one you just destroyed. Then use the appropriate pieces of the wheel bearing installation tool kit to install the hub. Then you'll need the axle install kit to get the axle through the hub. ----------------------------------------------------- BMW Special Tool Rentals Pay per incident tech support ----------------------------------------------------- Brett Anderson KMS (440) 338 1650 www.koalamotorsport.com OSS committee member > -----Original Message----- > I've run into a bit of trouble with a rear axle repair project on my '89 > E30 iX. The original was removed using a puller to push the stub axle > out of the hub (per Bentley). Bentley says the installation is the > reverse, yada yada, but there is obviously no way to use the same puller > to install the new part. > > After digging around a bit, it looked like I just needed to drive the > new part into the hub far enough to get the hub nut on there and then > use that to pull it the rest of the way in. I managed to drive it in > almost to the point where I can get to the threads before it simply > started pushing off the hub itself. > > So now I'm stuck: stub axle not far enough in to get a nut on the > threads (maybe need another 1/4 inch or so) and the hub has now been > pushed out a 1/2 inch or so. > > BTW, the splines were clean and rust free and I lubed them with a thin > coat of bearing grease before getting started. > > Any thoughts on how to get myself out of this little bind? > > Thanks in advance for the wisdom. > > --Jeff ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 09:29:14 -0500 (EST) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <E36> Valve cover replacement thoughts Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Having just done my first valve cover replacement, I thought I'd document a couple of the spots that caused me to stop and puzzle for a bit. The job took about 1:30-2:00 the forst time through, though I figure it would easily be done in an hour next time through. In the future I'll couple it with replacing the plugs. since getting the the coil packs out accounts foa chunk of the work required. Symptom. when changing spark plugs, one of them was oily above the threads, so I had seepage from the seal in the spark plug access hole. Tools 10 mm socket short extension can be helpful torque wrench that measures in/lbs or stubby ratchet (or be delicate with your longer handle) Valve cover gasket replacement kit tube of non silicone based non-hardening gasket sealant. I didn't bother with the rubber grommets on the cover mounting screws themselves as the ones on the screws seemed to be OK, and they're made of a material that doesn't seem to compress too badly. When removing the valve cover itself, a few things came up. 1) The wiring conduit is aqttached not only by two screws, but also byt a series of snap in electrical plugs that take a little fiddling and tugging to pull loose. pull straight up, wiggling a bit, and it will give. I was wondering about breaking something for a long, fiddling 20 mins. Also, don't forget the grounding wire at the front of the rail as it give you more slack to get the harness out of the way. 2) the screws on the cover itself(actually, they're kind of nuts that bolt onto the top of studs coming out of the head) closest to the firewall were tough to get at. I ultimately dropped one of them into the engine compartment and need to get to the dealer tomorrow for a replacement. For the outer screw (passenger's side) I recommend using a 10 mm offset wrench. There's room under the battery tray to sneak the wrench to get a 1/4 turn. The driver's side screw required removing the oil filler cap in my car since it is at the back of the head, I think the Ms have moved the filler cap forward.It's a tight fit requiring a hinged socket, or you can use the small tool in the factory toolkit that provides a decent low profile 10mm socket. 3) The screws that came off were actually caps on top of studs that were, in turn screwed into the head. I actually unscrewed the entire stud on the first screw, and only got the cap screw for the rest of the head. You only need to get the top screw off, but if you get the whole stud...no biggie, just keep track of all the parts. 4) After pulling all of the screws off, I had a bit of a nervous moment since the head cover didn't want to move, and I thought briefly that I needed to get the studs out to remove the cover. Playing with the full stud that I got out reassured me to gently tug at the cover and it broke loose. 5) I never played with the coil pack connectors when doing plugs in the past. Just slide the metallic sleeves straight up and the wires pop off. Made pulling the coil packs in my wife's M3 much easier 6) Torquing the screws seems fairly straight forward, since they bottom out (as Brett reassured me). I used my stubby ratchet and tightened them til they bottomed out then provided a slight twist of the wrist (since the recommended torque is in inch pounds). Beyind that, everything was fairly straightforward. The plugwires are numbered, and they are very distinct lengths, so you don't have to worry about getting them out of sequence. Everything went back together quickly. Just be careful with the last couple screws to make sure you don't drop one... Overall a simple enough job for a DIYer. Given the number of times I've paid people to do this in the past, I'm gald I finally went after it. Having the cover off helped me realize that the timing chain tensioner isn't that tough to get at. Marc Plante E36 325i, 220k E36 M3/4, 49k Vienna, VA ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 11:35:21 -0500 From: UUC Digest Monitor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: ADMIN: Spoof emails from uucdigest Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Folks, There is a virus out there masquerading as uucdigest.com. The message quoted below is NOT valid. The uucdigest will NEVER send you an email like this. Do not open ANY message from uucdigest.com with an attachment unless you are expecting an email from an admin who has specifically let you know ahead of time that it is on the way. ---- begin bogus email ---- >Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 10:35:24 -0500 >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: Email account utilization warning. >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >Hello user of Uucdigest.com e-mail server, > >We warn you about some attacks on your e-mail account. Your computer >may contain viruses, in order to keep your computer and e-mail account >safe, please, follow the instructions. > >Further details can be obtained from attached file. > >The Management, > The Uucdigest.com > team http://www.uucdigest.com > >=========================================================================== > >An attachment named TextFile.pif was removed from this document as it >constituted a security hazard. If you require this document, please >contact the sender and arrange an alternate means of receiving it. ---- end bogus email ----- Michael K Donohue System Administrator UUC Digest http://www.uucdigest.com ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 12:11:25 -0500 From: "Richard Sperry" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Dropped screw Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Last time I dropped something on the drivers side, it ended up on top of the starter motor on the pasenger side of the car. I had to get under the car and shine a flex light to see where it went. Once you do see it, use a claw to get it back. I really hate it when I have to replace a fastener after it "dissapears" when I drop it in my garage...lol ----------------------SNIP------------------------ Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 15:05:58 -0500 (EST) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Changing valve cover gasket. Screw lost in compartment Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Yes, Engine compartment. I'm very careful to keep the oil cap on as much as possible when working on the car. I'd be in deep #$%T if I actually dropped it in the motor. It fell down into the compartment at the driver's side rear of the head. Not sure what goes on specifically under the intake manifold in back other than the tranny casing. I tried shining a light down through to see if I could trace any light through but the light wasn't promising. Marc Marc Plante ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 11:24:35 -0700 From: "Murray Wilks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: HUH? E39 versus E46 luggage capacity Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Can someone please help clear up something for me? We are looking at getting either a used E39 or E46 wagon. However, according to the BMW documentation we have, the E46 wagon has more storage capacity??? In litres, these are the numbers quoted by BMW (rear seats up / rear seats down): E39 = 410 / 1525 E46 = 435 / 1617 I've cross-referenced several BMW items and they all quote the same numbers. How can a 3 series wagon have more space than a 5 series??? _________________________________________________________________ STOP MORE SPAM with the MSN Premium and get 2 months FREE* http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-ca&page=byoa/prem&xAPID=1994&DI=1034&SU=http://hotmail.com/enca&HL=Market_MSNIS_Taglines ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
