The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 89 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: San Francisco - Peninsula BMW Mechanic Re: San Francisco - Peninsula BMW Mechanic Re: San Francisco - Peninsula BMW Mechanic Re: Lime Rock - snow'ed out? Advice sought Re: Lime Rock - snow'ed out? Advice sought E36 Manual Steering Re: Changing brake hose E36 Re: Changing brake hose E36 Manual steering for E36? spring rate recommendations for autocross STX 325is? Re: spring rate recommendations for autocross STX 325is? FS: Brake Lines, Brake Pads, Clutch and P/P 72 2002-valve adjust Re: 72 2002-valve adjust '72 2002 Kludge of the day
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 22:38:19 -0800 From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Marco <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[uucdigest]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: San Francisco - Peninsula BMW Mechanic Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> SF Peninsula BMW service: Three places with quality service and have shown me conscienable business ethics are Dinan in Mountain View, perfectionists with tire mounting and alignments, suspension, brake, and CARB legal hor$epower mods for $100./hr, Stanford European (BMW, Porsche, Ferarri, Lamborghini, and up) in Palo Alto for basic servicing at $95./hr, and Reitmeier's in Los Altos (many time SCCA national autox champs) if you want a BMW or Porsche serviced or mod'ed or tuned well by a hard core enthusiast driver, at $110?/hr. I have no business connection with any of them. Auto servicing in CA is regulated by the Bureau of Automotive Repair. You can check the licensing and disciplinary record of a California licensed shop at the following site: http://www2.dca.ca.gov/pls/wllpub/wllqryna$lcev2.startup?p_qte_code=ARD&p_qte_pgm_code=1310 The three shops I mentioned, plus as you might expect Bill Arnold too, have clean records, no complaints filed against them and no Bureau of Automotive Repair citations listed. Check the CA State website before you take your car anywhere you're not sure of. Barry Marco wrote: I used to drive/tow from Burlingame (SFO) to San Rafael to have Bill work on my car. If I hadn't found a place in Mountain View with a great mechanic that is 2 minutes from my office I'd still be driving the 35 miles to Bill's shop. Hell, I used to take a day off just to hang out there! > > Marco > BMW CCA CR IP #196 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 07:52:22 -0800 From: Marco <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[uucdigest]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: San Francisco - Peninsula BMW Mechanic Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If you want it done right the first time don't go to dinan. I wouldn't trust them to tighten the lug nuts on my car. (which they forgot to do 2 out of the 3 times I went there). I can think of two places that do better alignments than them, and cheaper too. Custom Alignment and RennWerks. Reitmar does have a good reputation also but I haven't used them. Marco jkerouac wrote: > SF Peninsula BMW service: > Three places with quality service and have shown me conscienable > business ethics are Dinan in Mountain View, perfectionists with tire > mounting and alignments, suspension, brake, and CARB legal hor$epower > mods for $100./hr, Stanford European (BMW, Porsche, Ferarri, > Lamborghini, and up) in Palo Alto for basic servicing at $95./hr, and > Reitmeier's in Los Altos (many time SCCA national autox champs) if you > want a BMW or Porsche serviced or mod'ed or tuned well by a hard core > enthusiast driver, at $110?/hr. I have no business connection with > any of them. > > Auto servicing in CA is regulated by the Bureau of Automotive Repair. > You can check the licensing and disciplinary record of a California > licensed shop at the following site: > > http://www2.dca.ca.gov/pls/wllpub/wllqryna$lcev2.startup?p_qte_code=ARD&p_qte_pgm_code=1310 > > > > The three shops I mentioned, plus as you might expect Bill Arnold too, > have clean records, no complaints filed against them and no Bureau of > Automotive Repair citations listed. > Check the CA State website before you take your car anywhere you're > not sure of. > Barry > > Marco wrote: > I used to drive/tow from Burlingame (SFO) to San Rafael to have Bill > work on my car. If I hadn't found a place in Mountain View with a > great mechanic that is 2 minutes from my office I'd still be driving > the 35 miles to Bill's shop. Hell, I used to take a day off just to > hang out there! > >> >> Marco >> BMW CCA CR IP #196 > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 23:54:06 -0800 From: "J. Ochi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: San Francisco - Peninsula BMW Mechanic Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> It may have been a fluke, but I took my car to Phaedrus once and wasn't very impressed with the quality of their work. However, that was several years ago - maybe they've improved since then. I also used to take my car to Dinan, and was happy with their work until they totally bungled an easy diagnosis and repair job. That too was several years ago, and I'm sure that they've gone through many changes since then. Hopefully for the better, but I'm not willing to try and find out. The general purpose shops that immediately jump to mind when someone asks for a recommendation in the SF Bay Area are: - Bill Arnold (of course!) - Bavarian Professionals (Berkeley) There may be more, but these are the ones that I pretty much trust to do a good job at a fair price, and have done so for me. I've heard very good things about Reitmeir's Werkstadt in Los Altos, and Rennworks in Mountain View, but don't have any first-hand experience with them. Jim Ochi At 07:42 PM 3/16/2004, Bora Akyol (BMW) wrote: >Phaedrus (sp?) in San Francisco is supposed to be good. > >On 3/16/04 17:25, "Kevin Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > Can anyone recommend a good independent BMW mechanic in San Francisco > or the > > Peninsula not far south of San Francisco. I've got a friend who is looking > > for a mechanic closer to home than Bill Arnold in Marin. > > > > Kevin Kelly > > BMW CCA 50039 > > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 07:20:42 -0500 (EST) From: Joel Gallun <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Dennis Liu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: 911 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, BMW List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Lime Rock - snow'ed out? Advice sought Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Wed, 17 Mar 2004, Dennis Liu wrote: > Doesn't the snow need to be cleared not only from the pavement, but also > from the grass? That depends on whether the owners and/or organizers are willing to take on the liability. I've run several events at Summit Point where *everything* but the track and paddock were covered with snow. > Otherwise, if a car goes off, doesn't the snow increase the > chance of rollover risk? Just the opposite. The car will slide even better. We were concerned about snowbanks launching cars into the air but it didn't happen. They just go in. We had one car go in so far it took 2 wreckers to pull it out. Joel ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 10:06:34 -0500 From: "Robert Jackowitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Lime Rock - snow'ed out? Advice sought Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> It's up to the track to use their discretion. I drove lime rock last year at this time the day after a snow storm. We didn't get on the track until 11 as we had to wait for the snow on the track to melt. All grassy areas/runoff were covered but we ran anyway with no incidents. Rob > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dennis Liu > > Ok, it's friggin' snowing hard here in the Northeast. Doh. > First track event of the year for me is scheduled for Mon/Tue > with SCDA (www.scda1.com) at Lime Rock Park. Assuming that > LRP gets, say, 6-10" in this storm, and maybe another 1-2" > later this week, but warmish (40s) and sunny on the weekend, > what are the chances that we'll be able to run next week? > > Doesn't the snow need to be cleared not only from the > pavement, but also from the grass? Otherwise, if a car goes > off, doesn't the snow increase the chance of rollover risk? > > Grrrr.... and I just mounted a set of slicks yesterday.... > > Thanks, > > --Dennis ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 08:46:17 -0500 From: "Patrick Spikes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E36 Manual Steering Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On a number of race cars that I have worked on we took the hose ends that attached to the rack and braised them together. In effect making a short u-shaped piece simply to contain the fluid and allow it to circulate. This can eliminate searching for racks in foreign countries and wondering if everything will fit. Patrick Spikes ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 08:26:30 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Changing brake hose E36 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 3/17/04 1:31 AM, Paul T <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I have to change my brake hose on my 95 E36 (driver > front.) Is there a difference between OEM brake hose > vs generic brake hose from Napa? (except price?) I wouldn't buy no-name brake hose. If there are places to save money, this isn't one of them, and BMW supplies very good stock hoses. Furthermore I've yet to see an aftermarket hose that has a swivel fitting at the caliper end, a feature that makes installing the new hose easier without getting a torsional kink in it. > I've bled my brakes before, so I'm kind of familiar > with the system down there, and I understand the brake > hose job is pretty simple, but I still would like to > read a write up on it to make sure I have the proper > steps, can anyone provide a link? I've googled and > searched the archives, and came up with nothing > relevant. The problem you're likely to have is breaking loose the fender well fitting where the hose joins the hard brake line. The metal of the fitting is somewhat soft and easy to round off, and if you do that you'll be in a world of hurt. It's essential to apply a good quality penetrating oil (Kroil, W�rth or PB Blaster) and let it sit for a couple of hours. Do the same at the caliper end. I've also found it better to use an adjustable wrench, because you can set it to eliminate all play, whereas even good quality flare-nut wrenches fit a bit loosely. Put a sheet of Saran wrap under the brake fluid reservoir cap to slow down dripping from the open line. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 09:26:06 -0500 From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Changing brake hose E36 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > I wouldn't buy no-name brake hose. If there are places to > save money, this > isn't one of them, and BMW supplies very good stock hoses. Agreed. BMW brake lines are good stuff. I've cut them open before & can't imagine you'd find a better line anywhere. A super-thick fabric re-inforced inner hose covered with a reasonably thick dust boot. > > Furthermore I've yet to see an aftermarket hose that has a > swivel fitting at > the caliper end, a feature that makes installing the new hose > easier without > getting a torsional kink in it. The factory lines on my E30 M3 don't have swivel fittings. Do the E36's? The best way to avoid the kink is to thread the caliper first. The stainless lines have swivel fittings, which is nice. > > The problem you're likely to have is breaking loose the > fender well fitting > where the hose joins the hard brake line. The metal of the fitting is > somewhat soft and easy to round off, and if you do that > you'll be in a world > of hurt. This is strange. When I did mine (at the track, no less) the factory lines came out quite easily. I would assume that E36's would have a similar arrangement, but maybe they are harder to get to. Agreed, though. Don't f-up this bolt, or you'll be learning how to bend brake lines. > > It's essential to apply a good quality penetrating oil > (Kroil, W�rth or PB > Blaster) and let it sit for a couple of hours. Do the same at > the caliper > end. I've also found it better to use an adjustable wrench, > because you can > set it to eliminate all play, whereas even good quality > flare-nut wrenches > fit a bit loosely. My crapsmans fit the factory lines VERY snugly--as in had to be lightly tapped on. Be warned if you go with aftermarket stainless lines, most are Standard fittings. Here's a quick tip. Flare wrenches are a PITA to use. Only use them to break the fittings loose. If you mindfully use combo wrenches after that the job will go much more quickly. Also-----DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN ON REASSEMBLY!!!!! There's a reason the hard lines have a bubble flare on them. There's a reason the flexible lines have soft fittings. The torque spec on these parts is in inch-lbs. > > Put a sheet of Saran wrap under the brake fluid reservoir cap > to slow down > dripping from the open line. Damn, good idea. Must remember that one. > > Neil > 96 M3 Lee 88 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 09:29:31 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Manual steering for E36? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Barry wrote: > > > Did any E36 models come with manual steering? > > yep. appears you could get an M40 316i > with manual steering. the rack is part number > 32 11 1 138 198, but I can't seem to get > my ETK to tell me what else it might have been > used on. Maybe because, all it was used on was the 316 M40 and 316 M43 sedans. > > Could an E30 rack be converted to fit an E36? > > ( is it maybe the same except for a part number > > difference?) > > given that you can put an E36 rack into an E30 > w/the E36 tire rod ends, I don't see why you > couldn't go the other direction. however since > the E30 racks are all slower (more turns) than > the E36 M3 racks (esp the early ones which > are quicker still) it would seem to make more > sense to convert an existing E36 rack to manual > operation. I would imagine there are potential issues with regard to interchangeability between airbag equipped cars and non-airbag equipped cars. Regards, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 09:38:54 -0500 (EST) From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: spring rate recommendations for autocross STX 325is? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Howdy, Hey, we're gonna be playing with our '93 325is in STX this year for autox... Anyone got any spring rate recommendations? We'll be running single Koni's, the car has RD bars, 17x7.5 '95 m3 wheels with 225/45 Azenis, Turner camber plates, etc. I was leaning toward 400f/425r or so, but would definately like suggestions. Thanks! Mark ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 09:53:05 -0500 From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: spring rate recommendations for autocross STX 325is? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> GRM did a recent article on E36 2.5L autocross cars. I think the one they covered was the Bimmerhaus DSP car, but I would think the spring rates you'd use would be similar. Lemme see if I can't dig this up later....unless someone else finds it first. FWIW, I was very successful in CSP with the Eibach Pro-Kit which is much softer. Lee > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mark Andy > Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 09:39 > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [UUC] spring rate recommendations for autocross STX 325is? > > > Howdy, > > Hey, we're gonna be playing with our '93 325is in STX this year for > autox... > > Anyone got any spring rate recommendations? We'll be running single > Koni's, the car has RD bars, 17x7.5 '95 m3 wheels with 225/45 Azenis, > Turner camber plates, etc. I was leaning toward 400f/425r or so, but > would definately like suggestions. > > Thanks! > > Mark > > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > ______________________________________________________________ > ____________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of > the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 09:23:13 -0600 From: "Kris Welhart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Bmwuucdigest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "E36M3" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: FS: Brake Lines, Brake Pads, Clutch and P/P Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hello, All of the following parts for sale are for a 1995-1999 e36 M3: Front Stop Tech Stainless Steel Brake Lines: $50.00 never been used Front Porterfield R4 Brake pads: $100.00 never been used- Your chance to get new pads for the season Sachs Clutch Disk and Pressure Plate, no throw out bearing: $150.00 bolted up to flywheel, but never started motor. Please contact me @ [EMAIL PROTECTED] for pictures or more information. Thank you. Happy motoring, Kris Welhart 95 M3 98 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 10:30:28 -0500 From: "Alex Cagann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: 72 2002-valve adjust Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I just had the head milled on a 1972 2002 I have around...it had bad valve guides (plenty of smoke). I now have the head back on, all new this and that, and got her running last night. Now, am I correct that you are supposed to now adjust the valves after you have had it hot? If so, what is the tolerance on those valves? Now to those dang shift linkage bushings. It never ends.... Alex Cagann http://www.autoconsortium.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 07:48:26 -0800 (PST) From: Thi VanAusdal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: BMW List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: 72 2002-valve adjust Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- Alex Cagann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I just had the head milled on a 1972 2002 I have around...it had bad valve > guides (plenty of smoke). I now have the head back on, all new this and > that, and got her running last night. Now, am I correct that you are > supposed to now adjust the valves after you have had it hot? If so, what is > the tolerance on those valves? Now to those dang shift linkage bushings. It > never ends.... > > Alex Cagann > http://www.autoconsortium.com Alex, Funny, I just did the same thing (get a 1972 2002 running, installed a head on it. I swear). I set them to .006 intake, .008 exhaust, based on memory. They'll run at .010" or more. Confession: I had 3 totally loose from when I installed the cam and ran it several times before final head torque-down. It was noisy as all get-out, but it just idled anyway. I just looked in the Haynes manual. .006 and .008 for intake and exhaust, respectively. Damn, I'm good. OK, I just used the two dirty feeler guages. <grin> Notes on this car: '72 2002, cracked head >>seized #2 piston. Broke it loose, oiled it up, honed it down, wiped it off. Had 318i head in garage (parts packrat, yeah!), swapped in 2002 cam (to get right distributor gear). THEN I had to install an electric fuel pump, which I mounted on the brake booster on a spiffy little kludged mount using 8mm fuel hose and an M8 bolt. It's sure more fun that just swapping parts. Thi VanAusdal Round Rock, TX ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 07:56:42 -0800 (PST) From: Thi VanAusdal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: '72 2002 Kludge of the day Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> So my '72's ready to be driven now to see what broke from sitting 6 years. But I can't pass inspection because the horn doesn't work. I look in the steering wheel - there isn't even a contact brush in the wheel anymore, nor are there any wires between the 4 horn switches. My '85 528e parts car has a very pretty brush and holder - except that on E21s on, BMW reversed the setup so the ring is in the wheel and the brush sits in the steering column. This has foiled many an attempt to use a 320i sport steering wheel on a 2002, I know. I drilled out the rivets holding the brush in place and shove the 528 horn contact into the 2002 wheel. Hmmm, dremel time. I hog out the seat a bit and it fits perfectly. String new wires, and it works. Note to self: do not test at 11 PM in neighborhood. Ever again. Thi VanAusdal Round Rock, TX '72 2002, '85 528e ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
