The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 91 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Changing brake hose [E36] Re: Changing brake hose [E36] Re: Changing brake hose [E36] Re: Changing brake hose E36 Re: Changing brake hose E36 Re: another 2002 question Re: E36 Manual Steering Re: E36 Manual Steering Re: E36 Manual Steering Re: E36 Manual Steering Valve Adjust Re: San Francisco - Peninsula BMW Mechanic Re: San Francisco - Peninsula BMW Mechanic Re: Motor rebuild Re: 2002 valve adjustment
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 14:33:20 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Changing brake hose [E36] Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 3/17/04 10:57 AM, "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > The factory lines on my E30 M3 don't have swivel fittings. Do the E36's? > The best way to avoid the kink is to thread the caliper first. Yes they do, which makes removing a caliper to rebuild it easier. > This is strange. When I did mine (at the track, no less) the factory lines > came out quite easily. I would assume that E36's would have a similar > arrangement, but maybe they are harder to get to. They're not hard to get to, but both the E36 cars that I've tried to take off have been very difficult. > Agreed, though. Don't f-up this bolt, or you'll be learning how to bend > brake lines. And how to flare the ends. Ask me how I know... Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 15:49:15 -0500 From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Changing brake hose [E36] Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Yes they do, which makes removing a caliper to rebuild it easier. That's a really nice touch. My E30 has these now, but it's in the form of stainless lines which I don't really care for. > > They're not hard to get to, but both the E36 cars that I've > tried to take > off have been very difficult. Wash all the salt off that thing once in a while.... :) > > > Agreed, though. Don't f-up this bolt, or you'll be > learning how to bend > > brake lines. > > And how to flare the ends. Ask me how I know... I just upgraded (well after tracking with it, I'm not sure it's an upgrade) to the 25mm master cylinder in my M3. This requires bending a new line as the fittings are different for the rear chamber. I bought straight sections of solid brake lines from BMW, & they came flared already with the fittings. FWIW, it was cheap too, only about $3 for an ~18" section. I was surprised how easy these were to bend. I bent them into shape by hand. After I thought about it for a while though, it made sense that they would be made of soft steel for the purpose of shock absorbsion. > > Neil > 96 M3 Lee 88 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 13:15:56 -0800 (PST) From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Changing brake hose [E36] Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I thought they were soft so they would bend into shape, and resist fatigue. Gary Derian --- "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > After I thought about it for a while though, it made > sense that they would > be made of soft steel for the purpose of shock > absorbsion. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 15:51:09 -0500 From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Changing brake hose E36 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Don't remove the caliper!!!! Just thread the line into the caliper first. Since the other end has a nut, the line will never have to be turned once the caliper end is fastened. Well, feel free to remove the caliper if you're replacing pads or seals or something. Lee > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Paul T > Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 15:16 > To: uuc digest > Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [UUC] Changing brake hose E36 > > > Thanks Neil. > > It sounds like the job would be easier if I remove the > caliper, is that correct? and probably not get much of > a kink too when I screw on the new line. > > I'll give that a try this weekend. thanks for the > tips. > > Paul > > --- Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > on 3/17/04 1:31 AM, Paul T <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > wrote: > > > > > I have to change my brake hose on my 95 E36 > > (driver > > > front.) Is there a difference between OEM brake > > hose > > > vs generic brake hose from Napa? (except price?) > > > > I wouldn't buy no-name brake hose. If there are > > places to save money, this > > isn't one of them, and BMW supplies very good stock > > hoses. > > > > Furthermore I've yet to see an aftermarket hose that > > has a swivel fitting at > > the caliper end, a feature that makes installing the > > new hose easier without > > getting a torsional kink in it. > > > > > I've bled my brakes before, so I'm kind of > > familiar > > > with the system down there, and I understand the > > brake > > > hose job is pretty simple, but I still would like > > to > > > read a write up on it to make sure I have the > > proper > > > steps, can anyone provide a link? I've googled and > > > searched the archives, and came up with nothing > > > relevant. > > > > The problem you're likely to have is breaking loose > > the fender well fitting > > where the hose joins the hard brake line. The metal > > of the fitting is > > somewhat soft and easy to round off, and if you do > > that you'll be in a world > > of hurt. > > > > It's essential to apply a good quality penetrating > > oil (Kroil, Wurth or PB > > Blaster) and let it sit for a couple of hours. Do > > the same at the caliper > > end. I've also found it better to use an adjustable > > wrench, because you can > > set it to eliminate all play, whereas even good > > quality flare-nut wrenches > > fit a bit loosely. > > > > Put a sheet of Saran wrap under the brake fluid > > reservoir cap to slow down > > dripping from the open line. > > > > Neil > > 96 M3 > > > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam > http://mail.yahoo.com > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > ______________________________________________________________ > ____________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of > the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 15:59:31 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Paul T <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, uuc digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Changing brake hose E36 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 3/17/04 3:15 PM, Paul T at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > It sounds like the job would be easier if I remove the > caliper, is that correct? and probably not get much of > a kink too when I screw on the new line. The stock hose has a swivel fitting at the caliper end, and the hard line it joins to has a captive swiveling nut. So in effect the stock hose can rotate at both ends, and you don't have to worry much about which comes off first. Aftermarket hoses I've seen lack the swivel fitting at the caliper end. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: 17 Mar 2004 13:17:36 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: another 2002 question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The Kugelfischer has an oil return line to a hole in the block near the dipstick hole, maybe 2 inches higher and rearward. Dunno if the hole is threaded; mine looks like it has a nipple pressed into it, with the return hose clamped to that. There is little oil flow -- mainly pressure relief as Gary described. Yours is a tii block if the VIN stamped on the flat above the starter is 276xxxx or 278xxxx. Alex Cagann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > OK, what is the hole? Where...well, it is right next to the oil > dipstick hole. It is just an open hole, no threads in it, leading > down into the crankcase. I took apart this 72 2002 months ago and > don't remember pulling anything out of this hole and the parts I > have lying around prove there is no mate for it. Anyone have an > idea what this is? Some type of crankcase vent thingy? > > Stumped, > Alex Cagann > http://www.autoconsortium.com Thi VanAusdal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Show me a picture of your hole. Not on the digest, I hope. Curt Ingraham Some 02s Oakland, CA ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 16:47:33 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E36 Manual Steering Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 3/17/04 3:23 PM, "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > OK, this thread begs a question. > > Why would you remove power steering from a race car, or any car for that > matter? And the number 1 reason: Wants forearms like Popeye, but doesn't like spinach! Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 14:06:06 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E36 Manual Steering Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> For a race a car I can think of one main reason besides the loss of the weight assoc with the pump and parasitic losses. It eliminates a potential failure point of hoses/reservoirs etc which if they break dump slick fluid all over the resulting in a big fat spin for you or the people behind you. I have seen an E36 dump p/s fluid resulting in a following car spinning and being damaged. Marco checks p/s hoses and reservoir before every track session. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Neil Maller Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 1:48 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] E36 Manual Steering on 3/17/04 3:23 PM, "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > OK, this thread begs a question. > > Why would you remove power steering from a race car, or any car for that > matter? And the number 1 reason: Wants forearms like Popeye, but doesn't like spinach! Neil 96 M3 Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 18:07:51 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E36 Manual Steering Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > -----Original Message----- > > OK, this thread begs a question. > > > > Why would you remove power steering from a race car, or any car for that > > matter? > > And the number 1 reason: > Wants forearms like Popeye, but doesn't like spinach! This is the only reason I can think of. There's a reason why almost every professional race car out there has power steering. The biggest part of that reason is to lessen driver fatigue. There's no way I'd want to track a car without power steering. A friend who drives Trans Am/GT-1 lost his power steering belt on the out lap of a National SCCA race at Nelson Ledges last year. He led for most of the race, but was so sore afterwards that he couldn't move for several days. It took him weeks to get over the muscle strain. Brett Anderson KMS ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 19:59:11 -0500 From: "Woody" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E36 Manual Steering Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> During the 2002 Speed World Challenge season, the Dupont Motorsports team ran at least one car without powersteering. Neal Sapp drove one at the DC event just after recovering from a shoulder or arm injury (while on a motorcycle). He was worn out. Woody Hair ----- Original Message ----- From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, March 17, 2004 6:07 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] E36 Manual Steering > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > OK, this thread begs a question. > > > > > > Why would you remove power steering from a race car, or any car for that > > > matter? > > > > And the number 1 reason: > > Wants forearms like Popeye, but doesn't like spinach! > > This is the only reason I can think of. There's a reason why almost every > professional race car out there has power steering. The biggest part of > that reason is to lessen driver fatigue. > > There's no way I'd want to track a car without power steering. A friend > who drives Trans Am/GT-1 lost his power steering belt on the out lap of a > National SCCA race at Nelson Ledges last year. He led for most of the race, > but was so sore afterwards that he couldn't move for several days. It took > him weeks to get over the muscle strain. > > Brett Anderson > KMS > > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 14:10:30 -0800 From: "Michael Andre" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Bmwuucdigest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Valve Adjust Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Shoot, Gary, I seem to remember adjusting valves in 1962 with the engine running! Mike A ______________________ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 12:19:13 -0800 (PST) Subject: Re: 72 2002-valve adjust It is nearly impossible to set valves consistently with a hot engine. By the time you finish, the engine will be cold(er). Granted one wants to set clearances in the condition the engine will be operating, but it is rather trivial to set one intake and one exhaust valve with a hot engine, then let it cool, and measure the change. Then set the remaing valves to that figure. I can imagine a factory engineer did that oh, say 1962 and factored that into the valve lash specs. Gary Derian ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 15:54:36 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: San Francisco - Peninsula BMW Mechanic Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Funny, the number of us that have taken whole days off to hang out a Bill Arnold's shop while he and his staff work on our cars. You'd think we would have bumped into each other there now and then. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA Another happy customer of Bills, doesn't mind that it is ~20 miles from work and ~40 miles from home >Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 20:59:52 -0800 >From: Marco <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: Re: San Francisco - Peninsula BMW Mechanic >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >I used to drive/tow from Burlingame (SFO) to San Rafael to have Bill >work on my car. If I hadn't found a place in Mountain View with a >great mechanic that is 2 minutes from my office I'd still be driving >the 35 miles to Bill's shop. Hell, I used to take a day off just to >hang out there! > >Marco ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 16:08:28 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: San Francisco - Peninsula BMW Mechanic Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Well, as long as we're expanding beyond the specified SF/northern peninsula area, Ray Gauthier (Ray's Ultimate BMW Service) in Santa Clara is very good. Ray's, Bill Arnold and Bav Pros are the only BMW shops that have worked on my cars since the earyl '90s. Although, Kaehler's is just a few miles from my house and near a BART station, and I did meet Denny Kaehler on a flight from Phoenix to Oakland once and he seemed like a really nice guy and everything, but I don't know anyone who has used that shop on a regular basis. Denny's story about building racers for the Bonneville Salt Flat top speed runs was very interesting... Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2004 23:54:06 -0800 >From: "J. Ochi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: Re: San Francisco - Peninsula BMW Mechanic >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >snip> >The general purpose shops that immediately jump to mind when someone asks >for a recommendation in the SF Bay Area are: >- Bill Arnold (of course!) >- Bavarian Professionals (Berkeley) > >There may be more, but these are the ones that I pretty much trust to do a >good job at a fair price, and have done so for me. I've heard very good >things about Reitmeir's Werkstadt in Los Altos, and Rennworks in Mountain >View, but don't have any first-hand experience with them. > >Jim Ochi ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 17:08:44 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Motor rebuild Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Ok, Alex's great work begs another question. Where does one go to get the specs for a rebuild. Example, for valve timing how to determine the valve openings etc. or the main crank bearing cap torques etc. Thinking about the M30 rebuild. -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 17:17:52 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: 2002 valve adjustment Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gary: " I can imagine a factory engineer did that oh, say 1962 and factored that into the valve lash specs." What a great idea, but I would venture for statistical "purity" doing it on 500 engines over time and then setting the gap spec. Niel ?, care to weigh in. I would imagine this spec could be determined from design spec.s only but on actual products would seem to be better to take into account machining variances. But what determines the spec. goal, dwell time of the valve on the seat for heat transfer at some probable rpm or combustion efficiency or multiple factors optimized (response surface methodology?). -Kevin ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
