The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 90 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: another 2002 question Re: another 2002 question Re: another 2002 question Re: another 2002 question Re: E36 Manual Steering Re: E36 Manual Steering Re: 72 2002-valve adjust Re: 72 2002-valve adjust Re: 72 2002-valve adjust Re: 72 2002-valve adjust Re: E46 Understeer Re: E32 Ignition wires Re: E32 Ignition wires Re: Lime Rock - snow'ed out? Advice sought Re: Changing brake hose E36
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 11:09:55 -0500 From: "Alex Cagann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: another 2002 question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> OK, what is the hole? Where...well, it is right next to the oil dipstick hole. It is just an open hole, no threads in it, leading down into the crankcase. I took apart this 72 2002 months ago and don't remember pulling anything out of this hole and the parts I have lying around prove there is no mate for it. Anyone have an idea what this is? Some type of crankcase vent thingy? Stumped, Alex Cagann http://www.autoconsortium.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 08:25:45 -0800 (PST) From: Thi VanAusdal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: another 2002 question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > OK, what is the hole? Where...well, it is right next to the oil dipstick > hole. It is just an open hole, no threads in it, leading down into the > crankcase. I took apart this 72 2002 months ago and don't remember pulling > anything out of this hole and the parts I have lying around prove there is > no mate for it. Anyone have an idea what this is? Some type of crankcase > vent thingy? > > Stumped, > > Alex Cagann > http://www.autoconsortium.com Show me a picture of your hole. Wait, that is just totally wrong. If the hole has 4 small (M6 = 10mm bolt heads) threaded holes around it in a rectangle, that's where the early M10 dipstick goes in. The dipstick threads into a plate that bolts there. It rather looks like a massive brake line on that end. On smogged 2002s, the bracket for the air pump under the alternator/oil filter includes the dipstick part. On de-smogged cars, you hacksaw off that part and toss the pump bracket. Later M10 blocks just had a stub of a tube stuck into a machined hole, to which a short hose and the rest of the dipstick tube was clamped. I'm not sure about 318i and M3s, though. Thi VanAusdal ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 08:57:02 -0800 (PST) From: Thi VanAusdal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: another 2002 question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Thi, here is a photo of it. You are correct, it does have four bolts around > it. What is it doing on this engine, because as you can see, the oil > dipstick is to the left of it. "Hey, Al, I found the oil leak!" Seriously, it looks machined, which is ODD. The early 2002 had a hole as part of the casting - but not machined in any way. Is it straight into the clock, or is it angled upwards? I'm not sure WTF. If it's a tii block, it would have a oil supply line for the FI pump below the #2 intake runner. I'm not sure about a return line, and the Haynes does not go into much detail about the FI system. It could be a oil return for the FI pump ... Does the block have a tapped hole there? Curt I.? Quick, somebody send me a tii to check out ... <grin> Thi '72 2002, for sale as soon as it's reliable ... ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 11:05:31 -0800 (PST) From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: another 2002 question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If the Kuegelfischer system is like the Bosch, there is no oil return line. Only pressure to seal the piston bores. Gary Derian > > If it's a tii block, it would have a oil supply line > for the FI pump below > the #2 intake runner. I'm not sure about a return > line, and the Haynes does > not go into much detail about the FI system. It > could be a oil return for > the FI pump ... Does the block have a tapped hole > there? > > Curt I.? ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 11:13:57 -0500 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E36 Manual Steering Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> OK, this thread begs a question. Why would you remove power steering from a race car, or any car for that matter? Brett Anderson KMS ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 20:22:38 +0000 From: "Gilbert Hoffman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 Manual Steering Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brett Ponders: >Why would you remove power steering from a race car, or any car for that >matter? I would think weight savings on a race car. It also keeps the motor from powering another device. Of course, I removed the PS pump on my E30 because it did not work, and I am too cheap to replace it. Gilbert _________________________________________________________________ FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar � get it now! http://clk.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 12:16:38 -0500 From: "Harold Spingarn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: 72 2002-valve adjust Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Alex, >Now, am I correct that you are >supposed to now adjust the valves after you have had it hot? I've always adjusted my valves on my 72 with the head stone cold. The values of .006 and .008 are also what I use. But according to the FSM, the clearances are .0079...0098 with engine at operating temperature. It footnotes this with the comment "With max. coolant temperature 35 degrees C (95F) : .0059....0079 This makes sense since the head expands as the coolant temps rise. Contact me if you'd like me to scan the page and send it to you. Glad you're back up and running. Harold Spingarn 72Tii 96 M3 --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.600 / Virus Database: 381 - Release Date: 2/28/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 13:53:06 -0500 From: "Alex Cagann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: 72 2002-valve adjust Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks for all the help guys. I have got the valves adjusted and everything put back together. As for the hole next to the dipstick, I am putting a freeze plug in it. The engine runs perfect now. You gotta love how easy it is to work on these older engines. I am definitely no technician by any means, but with a little reading/research and much needed help from the pros around uuclist, you can work it out. No diagnostic computer equipment needed here :-) Alex Cagann http://www.autoconsortium.com > I've always adjusted my valves on my 72 with the head stone cold. > The values of .006 and .008 are also what I use. > But according to the FSM, the clearances are .0079...0098 with engine at > operating temperature. > It footnotes this with the comment "With max. coolant temperature > 35 degrees > C (95F) : .0059....0079 > This makes sense since the head expands as the coolant temps rise. > Contact me if you'd like me to scan the page and send it to you. > > Glad you're back up and running. > > Harold Spingarn > 72Tii > 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: 17 Mar 2004 11:39:02 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: 72 2002-valve adjust Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Factory manual says 0.007-0.009 inch with engine cold. Bimmer Parts sells shifter rebuild kits with all the bushings and wear parts. Curt Ingraham Oakland, CA 72, 73, 76 02s Improved 2002 Radiators Alex Cagann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I just had the head milled on a 1972 2002 I have around...it had > bad valve guides (plenty of smoke). I now have the head back on, > all new this and that, and got her running last night. Now, am I > correct that you are supposed to now adjust the valves after you > have had it hot? If so, what is the tolerance on those valves? > Now to those dang shift linkage bushings. It never ends.... > > Alex Cagann > http://www.autoconsortium.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 12:19:13 -0800 (PST) From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: 72 2002-valve adjust Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> It is nearly impossible to set valves consistently with a hot engine. By the time you finish, the engine will be cold(er). Granted one wants to set clearances in the condition the engine will be operating, but it is rather trivial to set one intake and one exhaust valve with a hot engine, then let it cool, and measure the change. Then set the remaing valves to that figure. I can imagine a factory engineer did that oh, say 1962 and factored that into the valve lash specs. Gary Derian --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Factory manual says 0.007-0.009 inch with engine > cold. Bimmer Parts > sells shifter rebuild kits with all the bushings and > wear parts. > > Curt Ingraham > Oakland, CA > 72, 73, 76 02s > Improved 2002 Radiators ------------------------------ Date: 17 Mar 2004 17:30:11 -0000 From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E46 Understeer Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I'm wondering, how does your 330i PP > compare to the regular Sport Pack 330 in the balance department? Much more neutral than the sport pack car, but not a whole hell of a lot stiffer by feel. The changes to the supension were very minor. > Surprised you said the wheels on your PP are so heavy though. You're surprised? I'm not. 18x8.5 multispoke cast wheels should weigh a whole ton, and these do. It just kills the accelleration. The RCs off the race car were nice on the PP, too bad the SO thinks they're ugly as sin. > Mine feels like it has a ton of toe in at the rear. I've been playing > with pressures but don't think the tires are up to my driving style > without serious complaint. Wheels and tires are the easiest and best bang-for-buck mod on any BMW. Nice lightweight wheels and super sticky tires always improves the acr across the board. BBS RKs in 18x8.5 are at a super low price right now (relatively speaking of course). Match those to a set of BFG KDs or S-03s in 255/35-18, and you'll see a huge difference. > I would like this thing to be > more neutral & light on it's feet like my e36 track car Try the wheels and tires along with an aggressive alignment before you come to a final comclusion. A great suspension with crappy tires and rolling bricks won't feel much better. From there, try little mods and see if that helps -- maybe start with Rob's sway bars, then stiffer shocks, etc. Probably not worth going whole hog on a car that only sees street duty when you have a hot track car (which it sounds like you do). That's my $0.02. -peter*g '95 M3 (IP/A3 race car) '03 330iPP (the perfect commuter car) '96 Range Rover HSE (my very own English Patient, and soon to be M3 hauler) ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 09:56:27 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E32 Ignition wires Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Does anyone know what the ignition wire resistance values are from the distributor connector through to the spark plug connector? In addition, does the long extension on the wire set at the spark plug have a built in resistor? Bentley's table suggests a value of almost zero for the wire (logical) but then states 5k ohms for the plug connector. This implies that a resistor is built into the connector, but the plugs are resistance plugs so I don't understand the need for resistors at the connectors. I'm measuring about 6k ohms on some of the wires which if there is 5k ohms at the connector would seem to be correct. -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 10:44:27 -0800 (PST) From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E32 Ignition wires Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The wires are solid with no resistance. The plug ends and cap ends have built in resistors, as has the rotor. I think the plug ends are 5K and the cap ends are 1K. Gary Derian --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Does anyone know what the ignition wire resistance > values are from the > distributor connector through to the spark plug > connector? > > In addition, does the long extension on the wire set > at the spark plug have > a built in resistor? Bentley's table suggests a > value of almost zero for > the wire (logical) but then states 5k ohms for the > plug connector. This > implies that a resistor is built into the connector, > but the plugs are > resistance plugs so I don't understand the need for > resistors at the > connectors. > > I'm measuring about 6k ohms on some of the wires > which if there is 5k ohms > at the connector would seem to be correct. > > -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 13:41:06 -0500 (EST) From: Joel Gallun <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Dennis Liu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: BMW List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Lime Rock - snow'ed out? Advice sought Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Y'all might appreciate this -- this is what Summit Point looked like when we ran the second event of last year, which was on the first weekend in March ('03) http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage2.wtdr/i=wNjU2ODQ2czQxM2RmZDMxeTU0MQ%3D%3D.jpg Joel ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2004 12:15:35 -0800 (PST) From: Paul T <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: uuc digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Changing brake hose E36 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks Neil. It sounds like the job would be easier if I remove the caliper, is that correct? and probably not get much of a kink too when I screw on the new line. I'll give that a try this weekend. thanks for the tips. Paul --- Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > on 3/17/04 1:31 AM, Paul T <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > wrote: > > > I have to change my brake hose on my 95 E36 > (driver > > front.) Is there a difference between OEM brake > hose > > vs generic brake hose from Napa? (except price?) > > I wouldn't buy no-name brake hose. If there are > places to save money, this > isn't one of them, and BMW supplies very good stock > hoses. > > Furthermore I've yet to see an aftermarket hose that > has a swivel fitting at > the caliper end, a feature that makes installing the > new hose easier without > getting a torsional kink in it. > > > I've bled my brakes before, so I'm kind of > familiar > > with the system down there, and I understand the > brake > > hose job is pretty simple, but I still would like > to > > read a write up on it to make sure I have the > proper > > steps, can anyone provide a link? I've googled and > > searched the archives, and came up with nothing > > relevant. > > The problem you're likely to have is breaking loose > the fender well fitting > where the hose joins the hard brake line. The metal > of the fitting is > somewhat soft and easy to round off, and if you do > that you'll be in a world > of hurt. > > It's essential to apply a good quality penetrating > oil (Kroil, W�rth or PB > Blaster) and let it sit for a couple of hours. Do > the same at the caliper > end. I've also found it better to use an adjustable > wrench, because you can > set it to eliminate all play, whereas even good > quality flare-nut wrenches > fit a bit loosely. > > Put a sheet of Saran wrap under the brake fluid > reservoir cap to slow down > dripping from the open line. > > Neil > 96 M3 > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
