The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 102 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: Official 1-series pictures
  Re: Official 1-series pictures
  Re: Official 1-series pictures
  Re: Official 1-series pictures
  Re: Official 1-series pictures
  Re: Official 1-series pictures
  Re: Official 1-series pictures
  Re: Official 1-series pictures
  Floor mats
  Re: E30 front end rebuild
  Re: Swaybar linkages, M3 vs. other E36
  Re: E30 front end rebuild
  RE>Coolant light on 
  Re: //M3 swaybar alternatives
  Shipping bumpers

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Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 17:38:15 -0500
From: "Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Official 1-series pictures
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Funny this should come up... I was reading the latest issue of Roundel today and
saw the 745i vs. A8 article.  Apparently the A8 has a similar system called
"MMI" for MultiMedia Interface.

So it's a new industry-wide thing.  To quote a wise listmember, "Oh goody".

What it reminded me of immediately was when I was back in school and the
University thought it would be a good idea to change "library" to "media
resource center".  Funny, I thought "library" referred to the center in which
one sourced all kinds of media already, but obviously that was another example
of "the way that worked all along must be thrown out in favor of something new
and clunky because we've run out of useful creativity."

Bah.  It may take a loss in the marketplace to bring back the real BMW we love.

- Rob

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Neil Maller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [UUC] Official 1-series pictures


> I note from the features that it's got iDrive. Oh goody, that should make
> them lots of friends.
>


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 17:56:57 -0500
From: UUC Digest Monitor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Official 1-series pictures
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hear hear!

I still think the best writeup on the iDrive system was done by Piston Heads:

http://www.pistonheads.com/truth/default.asp?storyId=3867

Quote from the article:

"The company that builds "The Ultimate Driving Machine" is the one company 
that should know an over-complicated and dangerous distraction when it sees 
one. The iDrive is not, as BMW claims, "A New Way to Drive". It is, in 
fact, a new way to die."

At 05:38 PM 3/24/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>Funny this should come up... I was reading the latest issue of Roundel 
>today and saw the 745i vs. A8 article.  Apparently the A8 has a similar 
>system called "MMI" for MultiMedia Interface.
>
>So it's a new industry-wide thing.  To quote a wise listmember, "Oh goody".
>
>What it reminded me of immediately was when I was back in school and the 
>University thought it would be a good idea to change "library" to "media 
>resource center".  Funny, I thought "library" referred to the center in 
>which one sourced all kinds of media already, but obviously that was 
>another example of "the way that worked all along must be thrown out in 
>favor of something new and clunky because we've run out of useful creativity."
>
>Bah.  It may take a loss in the marketplace to bring back the real BMW we 
>love.
>
>- Rob

Michael K Donohue
System Administrator
UUC Digest
http://www.uucdigest.com


------------------------------

Date: 24 Mar 2004 23:16:29 -0000
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Official 1-series pictures
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> An aggressive cross between the new 5 and an MZ-coupe, but it really works 
> for me! Just give it a more powerful engine (>150 bhp) and keep the weight below 
> 3,000 pounds and BMW NA will have my money.W 

I'm gonna throw my hat in the ring here too. I think it's a beautiful execution of a 
5-door hatch, with all the things I like about the M Coupe 
and the new design style. I'm not a fan of the cut line from the hood to the grille, 
but I understand why they did (E46 3-series hoods are 
spendy and minor fender-benders tend to require an entire new hood). 

Give it a high-revving four or a torquey 6 and make sure it's low weight, and I'll put 
down my downpayment now.

-peter*g




------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 18:49:38 -0500
From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Official 1-series pictures
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

peter*g wrote:

> Give it a high-revving four or a torquey 6 and make sure
> it's low weight, and I'll put down my downpayment now.

note that at launch it has a 163+hp diesel & a 150hp gas
engine, both 2.0l 4 cyl's.

per this week's Autoweek they're working on a new
2.2l 6 for the car, but we won't get anything until 2006 :
<http://www.autoweek.com/cat_content.mv?port_code=autoweek&content_code=08700284>

it's too bad they aren't confident enough in the package
that they'll sell it as a hatch here, odd since Audi is
going the other direction & bringing 3 & 5 door versions
of the A3 here shortly...


Ben


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 16:07:07 -0800
From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "[uucdigest]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Official 1-series pictures
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

re: 1 Series.
Gonna toss my helmet in here too:
After playing every link I could find on the website, I'm disappointed.
A 2 liter 8 valve with 318i (E30) injection, a bigger throttle, and 
proper retuning will give 150 reliable hp.  On paper the marvel of 
modern engineering the 1 series is supposed to get should make at least 
170 warranteeable 87 octane hp, over 200 with aftermarket tuning and 
premium gas.
Couldn't help notice the scene showing the tach needle revving 3 to 
5000.  What about redline?
Are there sources for specs on this car?  Weight? Tire/Wheel sizes? 
Gearings?
Looks like an E46 redress of the 318ti, and not to start a thread on the 
merits of the E36 compact, some of you know the experiences I went 
through with two of them, one a dealer buyback that BMWNA ordered, 
another a lemon law case that settled well in my favor.
My E36 //M3 is more car than I could have wanted, and even at its price, 
was a great value for what I got for the money.  Though the E36 styling 
might be a bit dated, I'll stay far away from this 1 series.  With BMWs, 
you don't get what you don't pay for, and from this multimedia preview, 
looks like there's a lot missing.

Barry

>>An aggressive cross between the new 5 and an MZ-coupe, but it really works 
>>for me! Just give it a more powerful engine (>150 bhp) and keep the weight below 
>>3,000 pounds and BMW NA will have my money.W 
>>    
>>
>
>I'm gonna throw my hat in the ring here too. I think it's a beautiful execution of a 
>5-door hatch, with all the things I like about the M Coupe 
>and the new design style. I'm not a fan of the cut line from the hood to the grille, 
>but I understand why they did (E46 3-series hoods are 
>spendy and minor fender-benders tend to require an entire new hood). 
>
>Give it a high-revving four or a torquey 6 and make sure it's low weight, and I'll 
>put down my downpayment now.
>
>  
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 16:21:29 -0800
From: Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Official 1-series pictures
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

On Mar 24, 2004, at 4:07 PM, jkerouac wrote:
> After playing every link I could find on the website, I'm disappointed.
> A 2 liter 8 valve with 318i (E30) injection, a bigger throttle, and 
> proper retuning will give 150 reliable hp.  On paper the marvel of 
> modern engineering the 1 series is supposed to get should make at 
> least 170 warranteeable 87 octane hp, over 200 with aftermarket tuning 
> and premium gas.

There's 20 years of advancing emissions regulations in there, too.  
Remember, BMW had to punch out the 2.5L motor to 2.8L just to maintain 
the same power (and negligably more torque) when going from OBD1 to 
OBD2.

- Mark


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 20:34:27 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Official 1-series pictures
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

The 2.8 (M52) was stroked, not bored.  The M52 has a bunch of changes that
include small intake runners.  It has a bunch more low speed torque but the
peak numbers don't show it.  The changes were not to meet OBD II but rather
a desire to build a torquey engine.

Gary Derian


> On Mar 24, 2004, at 4:07 PM, jkerouac wrote:
> > After playing every link I could find on the website, I'm disappointed.
> > A 2 liter 8 valve with 318i (E30) injection, a bigger throttle, and
> > proper retuning will give 150 reliable hp.  On paper the marvel of
> > modern engineering the 1 series is supposed to get should make at
> > least 170 warranteeable 87 octane hp, over 200 with aftermarket tuning
> > and premium gas.
>
> There's 20 years of advancing emissions regulations in there, too.
> Remember, BMW had to punch out the 2.5L motor to 2.8L just to maintain
> the same power (and negligably more torque) when going from OBD1 to
> OBD2.
>
> - Mark



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 19:22:35 -0500
From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Official 1-series pictures
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

jkerouac wrote:

> A 2 liter 8 valve with 318i (E30) injection, a bigger throttle, and
> proper retuning will give 150 reliable hp.

and wouldn't pass emissions laws which were in place when it
was originally sold, let alone the orders of magnitude more
stringent ones in place now.

> On paper the marvel of modern engineering the 1 series is
> supposed to get should make at least 170 warranteeable
> 87 octane hp, over 200 with aftermarket tuning and
> premium gas.

maybe.  it's the base model gas engine car (an afterthought in
the market, where diesels are well over 50% of sales) and
it's going to be supplemented by the 2.2l 6 with 180hp
in the future, so it can be boring & a bit slow.

> Couldn't help notice the scene showing the tach needle revving 3 to
> 5000.  What about redline?

might be the diesel, it's just advertising.

> Are there sources for specs on this car?  Weight? Tire/Wheel sizes?
> Gearings?

no, they just released pictures of it for the first time this week.  they'll
do specs soon enough.  have a bit of patience.

> Looks like an E46 redress of the 318ti

no, they already have an E46 compact :
<http://www.bmw.co.uk/apm/new_bmw/mid/index/0,3032,1156_1503__bs-Mw%253D%253D%252Bbb-S08%253D,00.html>

whatever the case may have been with the E36 ti, they've got
2 years to get the 1-series right before it gets here.

I wouldn't pay for a new BMW unless they do a real successor
to the E30 M3, but we'll see whether that happens...



Ben


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 14:49:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Mr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Floor mats
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Greetings all,

I need to purchase new black floor mats and was hoping
you guys could recommend some good quality ones at a
good price.  The last set I purchased started to fold
after time and won't lay flat anymore.  They also
started to unstitch on the ends.  These were supposed
to be good quality floor mats and I paid for them as
such.  Is there a particular brand that is tougher,
longer lasting, and won't fade?  Thanks!!

Manuel Paredes
95 325i
L.A. BMWCCA

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance Tax Center - File online. File on time.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 15:03:30 -0800 (PST)
From: Brad Couvillon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E30 front end rebuild
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Joe,

When I did the struts on my old E28 a few months ago,
I first did it with ZERO air tools.  It was a royal
pain to get the upper nut off without air tools!

Definitely see if you can locate some air tools. 
They'll make removal of the front strut housing and
removal of the strut itself much easier.

Also, the Bilstein strut collar nut was pretty
difficult, too, but I ended up finding the proper
Bilstein tool to use to remove it.

If you have Bilsteins in the car, you'll need either
the proper Bilstein collar nut removal tool, or you'll
need a big fudgin' pipe wrench.  The Boges and Konis
use a different, "regular" collar nut, but I have no
experience with it.  I suspect the pipe wrench would
work on it, too.

Good luck,

Brad "Shifty" Couvillon
'87 528e <-- gettin LOTS of work done tomorrow!



--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> In 1 week I am going to be replacing my front strut
> inserts, control arms
> and control arm bushings. I am already hosing down
> every bolt involved in
> this with penetrating oil in preparation for the
> job.
> 
> I would like to hear from people who have done this
> (or parts of this job).
> 
> What is the best way to separate the ball joints?
> 
> Is there oil in the strut housing for stock inserts?
> 
> How hard is it to get the retaining collar out of
> the strut housing? What do
> you grab it with?
> 
> How about getting the control arm bushings? Advice
> on getting them pressed
> into the housings or getting them on the control
> arms? 
> 
> I would like to hear all the useful advice before I
> get started for once...
> 
> -- Joe

__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance Tax Center - File online. File on time.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 18:33:50 -0500 (EST)
From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Swaybar linkages, M3 vs. other E36
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Howdy,

On Wed, 24 Mar 2004, chet.dawes wrote:
> 2) Geometry:  Ideally, the link will be exactly perpendicular to the
> sway bar end to apply force in the direction of the link to then act to
> twist the anti-roll bar) and not translate undesired forces to the
> bushings and then to the body.  The longer link creates a better angle
> over the entire travel range of the suspension.

I exerpted just that one part because the other stuff was totally clear.  
Should've thought of it!  Thanks to you and the others for the 
explanation...

Just one more question on geometry.  It seems like putting the swaybar
linkage to a tab welding to the the strut housing would have one
interesting effect... Namely that the endlink mounting point moves up and
down when the wheels are turned due to the strut not being perpendicular.  
In effect, when the front of the wheel turns toward the outside, the
endlink mounting point will rise (pulling the swaybar along with it).  On
the other wheel, where the front is turning toward the center of the car,
the endlink mounting point will drop.  Seems like this would effectively
jack the body so that the inside dropped and the outside rose...  Right?  
That seems like a good thing overall, but I'm not sure I'm examining it
correctly...

Thanks again!

Mark


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 16:23:28 -0800
From: "scott" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E30 front end rebuild
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Press out the old bushings with a big fat socket, and press in the new bushings with 
the old 
bushings. Get them onto the control arms with liquid dish soap. See: 
http://216.97.77.38/HTMLFiles/Menu1/Menu1-4-2/R&RControlArms.htm 

>
>Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 12:23:39 -0500 (EST)
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (bmw list)
>Subject: E30 front end rebuild
>Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>In 1 week I am going to be replacing my front strut inserts, control arms
>and control arm bushings. I am already hosing down every bolt involved in
>this with penetrating oil in preparation for the job.
>
>I would like to hear from people who have done this (or parts of this job).
>
>What is the best way to separate the ball joints?
>
>Is there oil in the strut housing for stock inserts?
>
>How hard is it to get the retaining collar out of the strut housing? What do
>you grab it with?
>
>How about getting the control arm bushings? Advice on getting them pressed
>into the housings or getting them on the control arms? 
>
>I would like to hear all the useful advice before I get started for once...
>
>-- Joe
>
>--
>Joseph M. Krzeszewski                      Network Operations
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]                       Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 16:49:04 -0800
From: Harvey Chao <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE>Coolant light on 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

 > The Coolant light on my '90 325is has started coming on periodically 
. . .

I went nuts trying to figure out that problem on an 87 E30ic.  Checked 
the sensor in the tank, it was fine, plenty of coolant.  Ref. Bentley 
wiring diagram and starting checking wiring.  The circuit grounds the 
low coolant lamp to complete the circuit from power source to bulb to 
sensor in tank to ground near the driver's side headlamp.  Turned out 
to be a bad connector at the sensor.  I cut the old one off and crimped 
on a pair of suitable "molex" female pins and re used the original 
insulating sleeve from the old connector.  Problem solved.


Harvey
The box said "Requires Windows 95, or better." So I bought a Macintosh.
    I live with fear, death, and evil...but I used to be able to turn it 
off and use a Mac. "  Author Unknown
    Failure is not an option. It comes bundled with your Microsoft 
product.
           -- Ferenc Mantfeld


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 16:49:15 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: //M3 swaybar alternatives
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

re: //M3 swaybar alternatives:
Chet,
     Great timing for your post, and exactly right you are.  Currently 
the M3 is on ramps getting a 94 325i 4 door sedan front swaybar. This 
325i bar is a mm thicker than the E36 3.2 liter //M3 stock.  The 
equivalent of increasing the thickness of a control arm mounted bar by 
1.5-2mm.
Since these are frequent stock take offs, they're cheap (~$50. or less) 
and readily available too.  The intention is to make the car as flat or 
flatter with R compound tires at the limits as it was with street tires 
before.  The extra bit of front end push the bigger bar will cause is 
easily dialed out by lowering the rear tire pressure by ~2-4 psi.  There 
is a limit to how much the //M3 strut tube mounts can handle without 
extra reinforcing.  I've seen stock //M3 mounting tabs ripped by a 26 mm 
S package bar.
Barry

 >Here's a rare example where M3 folks might try factory non-M
 >parts when looking for an upgrade.


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 20:16:30 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Shipping bumpers
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hi,

Any suggestions on how to ship a bumper as cheaply as possible, time is not 
a factor? FedEx, UPS, USPS, etc.? Surely there's a more economic way to 
ship a bulky item like this. I have quotes from the majors around $70-$90.

TIA

Evan



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