The BMW UUC Digest
Volume 2 : Issue 108 : "text" Format
Messages in this Issue:
Re: E36 ps disabling was: E30 Leaking power steering rack
Re: [E36] water pump mounting bolts
Re: [E36] water pump mounting bolts
Re: [E36] water pump mounting bolts
<Misc>buying a used car with a lien?
Re: <Misc>buying a used car with a lien?
Re: <Misc>buying a used car with a lien?
Re: <Misc>buying a used car with a lien?
Re: <Misc>buying a used car with a lien?
<fs> E36 Bentley manual
Re: MazdaSpeed Miata, R32, 1-series
1989 M3 hesitation problem...Electrically-related?
FS: e46 4-door interior black
Rollerskate anyone ??...
Misguided R&D: Blind Spot Detector <non-BMW>
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 07:36:38 -0800
From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E36 ps disabling was: E30 Leaking power steering rack
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Re: [UUC] E36 ps disabling was: E30 Leaking power steering rack:
Disconnecting the pump on th E36 has an addition consideration, since
one belt drives the alt, water and ps pumps.
For those who have disabled their E36 power steering, what belt do
you use? Without the ps pump in place the stock belt is ~4-8 inches too
long.
tia,
Barry
Chris Pawlowicz wrote:
>dan asks
>
>
>>My power steering rack has starting leaking fluid all
>>
>>
>my rack did the same ('89 325i) - mechanic disconnected pump belt, drained
>most of the fluid (otherwise it will fill the bellows and burst them) and
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 11:04:41 -0500
From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [E36] water pump mounting bolts
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
on 3/28/04 3:20 AM, "Roy Collins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I was replacing my water pump and one of the bolts broke. They are the 4
> headless bolts that screw into the timing chain cover.
You want to be very careful at this point - yeah, you already figured that
part out! - because there's the potential to make things worse. You REALLY
want to avoid having to drill that stud out, because you'd have to remove a
bunch of other stuff to get a straight shot at it.
The first thing to do is to apply some good quality penetrating oil to the
remaining stub. Kroil, W�rth or PB Blaster are all good. Let that soak for a
couple of hours, and spray on some more.
There are special sockets with an internal cam arrangement that are designed
to grip studs and remove them. If possible you should try to borrow or buy
one of these.
Another option is to file slight flats on the stud to help the Vise-Grips
get some purchase.
Sears and others also sell kits to remove broken bolts. You drill a small
hole down the centre of the bolt shank, then there's a drill-like tool which
wedges itself in the hole to turn the bolt. I haven't had very good luck
with these on small diameter bolts: the tool often breaks instead.
No matter what you do there's the possibility that this fairly small size
stud will break again, and you'll be forced to drill it out. The hole will
then have to be repaired using a Helicoil or similar thread insert.
Neil
96 M3
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 08:33:01 -0800
From: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [E36] water pump mounting bolts
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Also use a torch to heat up the area where the stud goes in. This can
_greatly reduce the amount of force required to remove it.
Barry
Neil Maller wrote:
>on 3/28/04 3:20 AM, "Roy Collins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
>
>>I was replacing my water pump and one of the bolts broke. They are the 4
>>headless bolts that screw into the timing chain cover.
>>
>>
>
>You want to be very careful at this point - yeah, you already figured that
>part out! - because there's the potential to make things worse. You REALLY
>want to avoid having to drill that stud out, because you'd have to remove a
>bunch of other stuff to get a straight shot at it.
>
>The first thing to do is to apply some good quality penetrating oil to the
>remaining stub. Kroil, W�rth or PB Blaster are all good. Let that soak for a
>couple of hours, and spray on some more.
>
>There are special sockets with an internal cam arrangement that are designed
>to grip studs and remove them. If possible you should try to borrow or buy
>one of these.
>
>Another option is to file slight flats on the stud to help the Vise-Grips
>get some purchase.
>
>Sears and others also sell kits to remove broken bolts. You drill a small
>hole down the centre of the bolt shank, then there's a drill-like tool which
>wedges itself in the hole to turn the bolt. I haven't had very good luck
>with these on small diameter bolts: the tool often breaks instead.
>
>No matter what you do there's the possibility that this fairly small size
>stud will break again, and you'll be forced to drill it out. The hole will
>then have to be repaired using a Helicoil or similar thread insert.
>
>Neil
>96 M3
>
>
>
>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
>
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 11:40:36 -0500
From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: jkerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [E36] water pump mounting bolts
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
on 3/28/04 11:33 AM, jkerouac at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Also use a torch to heat up the area where the stud goes in. This can
> _greatly reduce the amount of force required to remove it.
Good advice. I should have mentioned that too.
Neil
96 M3
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 11:31:54 -0500
From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Bmwuucdigest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: <Misc>buying a used car with a lien?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Stupid (?!) question for the group. Looking at a used car that has a lien
on it. What is the sequence of buying a car like this?
- Pay lien holder directly for buyout?
- Pay seller difference?
- Expect seller to buyout car before purchase?
Just wondering about the logistics.
Thanks in advance.
Marc Plante
E36 325i, 220k
Vienna, VA
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 13:17:54 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: <Misc>buying a used car with a lien?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Don't get between the owner and the lienholder. Pay him and expect a signed
title in return. He needs to pay the loan to get his title anyway.
Gary Derian
> Stupid (?!) question for the group. Looking at a used car that has a lien
> on it. What is the sequence of buying a car like this?
>
> - Pay lien holder directly for buyout?
> - Pay seller difference?
> - Expect seller to buyout car before purchase?
>
> Just wondering about the logistics.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Marc Plante
> E36 325i, 220k
> Vienna, VA
>
>
>
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 16:01:13 -0500
From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: <Misc>buying a used car with a lien?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Marc,
I don't practice in Virginia (and don't know if that is where the car is
coming from, anyway), but here in Maryland, you get a title with every
car purchased, with the lienholder's information present on the face of
the title. If the seller pays off the lienholder, they will have a very
similar appearing document called a release of lien. You want both
documents.
If you are going to pay off the lien (many seller's can't afford to pay
off the lien before sale), have the title endorsed over to you and pay
the difference to the seller. Get a bill of sale from the seller showing
the amount paid to the seller and the amount to be paid to the
lienholder. You will need the bill of sale so the commonwealth can
accurately tax the sale.
If you are financing the car through your bank or credit union, have
them prepare two checks, one for the seller and one for the lienholder.
Ed
Marc Plante wrote:
>Stupid (?!) question for the group. Looking at a used car that has a lien
>on it. What is the sequence of buying a car like this?
>
>- Pay lien holder directly for buyout?
>- Pay seller difference?
>- Expect seller to buyout car before purchase?
>
>Just wondering about the logistics.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Marc Plante
>E36 325i, 220k
>Vienna, VA
>
>
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 18:52:23 -0500
From: "Woody" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: <Misc>buying a used car with a lien?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
It's a pretty easy solution IF the title is held at a local bank. You and
the seller go to the proper office of the bank/credit union. One cashiers
check for the payoff balance on the loan is presented to the bank and the
bank will give the seller his title with the lien released. Give the
seller the balance of his price and he signs the title over to you.
I guess there has to be some trust involved if the lienholder is not local.
Woody
----- Original Message -----
From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Bmwuucdigest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, March 28, 2004 11:31 AM
Subject: [UUC] <Misc>buying a used car with a lien?
> Stupid (?!) question for the group. Looking at a used car that has a lien
> on it. What is the sequence of buying a car like this?
>
> - Pay lien holder directly for buyout?
> - Pay seller difference?
> - Expect seller to buyout car before purchase?
>
> Just wondering about the logistics.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Marc Plante
> E36 325i, 220k
> Vienna, VA
>
>
>
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 19:18:20 -0600
From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Bmwuucdigest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: <Misc>buying a used car with a lien?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
When I did this I went to the bank with the seller with a check made out to the seller
for the agreed purchase price; he endorsed it to the bank who released the title to
me. I assume that the bank refunded the difference to the seller.
Regards
Jamie Howton
2002 330i
1995 M3
-----Original Message-----
From: Marc Plante [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Sun 3/28/2004 10:31 AM
To: Bmwuucdigest
Cc:
Subject: [UUC] <Misc>buying a used car with a lien?
Stupid (?!) question for the group. Looking at a used car that has a lien
on it. What is the sequence of buying a car like this?
- Pay lien holder directly for buyout?
- Pay seller difference?
- Expect seller to buyout car before purchase?
Just wondering about the logistics.
Thanks in advance.
Marc Plante
E36 325i, 220k
Vienna, VA
Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 12:32:16 -0500 (EST)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: <fs> E36 Bentley manual
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I have 2 E36s and 2 manuals. Only need one. It's a little smudged, but a decent
reference to have
for some things.
$20 plus shipping
Marc Plante
E36 325i, 220k
E36 M3/4, 49k
Vienna, VA
Marc Plante
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 12:37:19 -0500
From: "m3 drvr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: MazdaSpeed Miata, R32, 1-series
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Just one note...the R32 is AWD.
I was under the impression that the engine sat back a bit farther and higer
since it was bigger and had the 4motion unit.
Clyde
98 M3 Sedan
"quietly lurking but posting occassionally..."
>From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: [UUC] MazdaSpeed Miata, R32, 1-series
>Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2004 15:06:19 -0500
>
>Lee wrote:
>
> > I heard something or other about a Mazdaspeed Miata
> > turbo......hehehehe I'd forget BMW even existed for a gadget like that!
> > Lightweight, good looks, gobs of power & Japanese reliability....who
>could
> > refuse it. Hell, the normally aspirated Miatas are SOOOOOO much fun to
> > drive.
>
>not really. look for a few reviews of the car. it's only got 178hp and
>isn't
>any
>lighter, so it's not really that fast. it is extremely cheap tho, as the
>turbo
>and some other chassis & appearance changes to the car only add around
>$1,500 to the price of the NA version. if gobs of power is what you want,
>then get a '94-'97 Miata & add a turbo to it. for ~$10k you can have
>something like 200hp (forget if it's crank or at the wheels, either way
>it's
>enough)
>and a significantly lighter package then the current car.
>
> > The autoshow was recently in Atlanta. The R32 is a cool-looking little
> > gizmo
>
>and has been extremely well received by the automotive press. tho
>even the VW Vortex guys decided that both the Evo & STi were
>better performance choices for the same money, with the R32 winning
>only on refinement & craftsmanship IIRC. nice car, but still a nose-heavy
>FWD VW, albeit a nice one.
>
> > FWIW, the best designed vehicle I saw for doing basic & intensive
> > maintenance was the Tundra.
>
>and 99.9% of the buyers could care less. people who work on their
>cars are not considered one iota in the design process. cars are designed
>for ease (and lowest cost) of manufacturing, then serviceability by the
>dealer.
>since they'll all have non-user serviceable modules & codes we can't read
>with out dealer equipment there's no reason to give a hoot about whether
>we like the way things are put together under the hood.
>
>I still suspect that we'll get a high performance 2 series at some point
>in 2006, maybe even at a reasonable price, but it would take a lot
>of performance to get me out of the STi, esp considering the utility
>that it's size provides.
>
>
>Ben
>
>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
_________________________________________________________________
Free up your inbox with MSN Hotmail Extra Storage. Multiple plans available.
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 10:18:44 -0800
From: "Chris Marino" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 1989 M3 hesitation problem...Electrically-related?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Group,
I'm grasping at straws and want to fine-tune my deductive reasoning.
As you may have followed, I'm having a hesitation/stumbling problem at
1200-2200 or thereabouts on my 89 M3.
In reading the archives, I'm come across some hesitation problems that were
ground or electrical in nature. Here are some more electrical nuances that
my car is experiencing.
My radio AM reception is terrible...Almost no AM reception.
My battery will die if not driven within nine days (yes, changed it to a
brand new 850cca First Interstate)
I'm about to go down and check the hood to body ground strap, firewall-motor
ground strap and the alternator to engine block strap.
Can anyone hypothesize what else, if anything, I may be missing or if I'm
even on the right track to begin with?
Chris
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 12:12:28 -0800 (PST)
From: Sam Schultz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: FS: e46 4-door interior black
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
FS e46 323i 4-door BLACK leatherette interior.
I am stripping out a 1999 e46 323i 4-door to make a GT
car. The interior is in EXCELENT condition with the
only fading being on the rear speaker shelf. I will
include ALL the speakers. I currently have the
COMPLETE black interior (not including DASH due to
rules). This KIT will allow you to change your
interior color to black. The kit does include all the
black inserts for your tan dash and center. I will not
be listing all the small little parts but and I have
SOME pics done today but I can take more later of all
the parts as needed.
KIT includes
2 front manual seats with there air bag sensors
1 rear seat (both sections)
4 door panels
ALL black insets for doors, dash, B-pillar etc
BOTH sections of black carpet (easy to swap)
All speakers are coming with the panels.
I am trying to sell this as a KIT if you want
everything (carpet) but one piece we can work
something out. If I cant sell everything together I
will split but I am really wanting to sell it whole
cause it will make life easier. Price is PLUS shipping
and this is a lot of BIG stuff so please keep that in
mind. You can pick up the items and if you live near
North Carolina we can arrange my bringing to you for a
small shipping charge (gas ant cheap anymore). If you
need other items that would be removed form a race car
please email me. I do have to keep the lights etc due
to the rules.
I am asking $1,200.00 obo
please email me privatly.
http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/merlin530i/album?.dir=/f033
Thanks
Sam Schultz
Mayodan, NC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
please note the 2 underscores ie _
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Finance Tax Center - File online. File on time.
http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 13:05:35 -0800
From: "BMWBits" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "2002digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "E21 Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
"E9coupes BMW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
"Peter Shelley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
"Senior Six Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
"Sixer coupe Group" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
"Uucdigest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Rollerskate anyone ??...
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2469741024
&category=6312
Bill & Shirley Proud
Seattle Summers , Tennessee Winters .
Long Commute between ,
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 28 Mar 2004 22:32:25 -0800
From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Misguided R&D: Blind Spot Detector <non-BMW>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
An article from our local newspaper is attributed to Jim Mateja of the
Chicago Tribune. It says that Ford is developing a blind spot
detector using "magneto-resistive sensors" - metal detectors. Sensors
have been mounted under the corners of the rear bumper of their Ford
Explorer test bed. Here's why it won't work:
"When turn signals are engaged, the sensors in the bumper determine
whether there is a vehicle next to you in the right or left lane."
And, "If a vehicle is there and in the blind spot, a turn-signal
indicator in the sideview mirror turns from orange to red as an
initial warning."
First of all, by my own unofficial estimate, fewer than 15% of the
driving population uses their turn signals. Second, if the sideview
mirrors were properly adjusted and the driver were using them, then
they would see the car in the "blind" spot in the mirror, and they
wouldn't need a colored flashing indicator to tell them that a car was
there.
More often than not, drivers change lanes or initiate turns without
signalling or looking at the other lane. So this technology is wasted
on the U.S. driving public.
'Nuff said. Not that this won't start a heated discussion about my
statistical methods or something.
Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA
------------------------------
End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages)
**********
