The BMW UUC Digest
Volume 2 : Issue 272 : "text" Format
Messages in this Issue:
Re: 318i '84 E30 Vibration on Acceleration
Re: 318i '84 E30 Vibration on Acceleration
Re: 318i '84 E30 Vibration on Acceleration
Re: Weird tire wear problem - E39 528i wagon
Re: Weird tire wear problem - E39 528i wagon
Re: Azenis (was New Fuzion) Tires
Re: New Fuzion Tires (+ a free rant on the ES100's)
Rear Toe Alignment; 04 330ci
Re: 318i '84 E30 Vibration on Acceleration
Re: Azenis (was New Fuzion) Tires
This made enough stir for Autoweek......
Re: New Fuzion Tires
Changing Valve Cover Gasket
Re: Changing Valve Cover Gasket
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 00:20:17 -0400
From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: 318i '84 E30 Vibration on Acceleration
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
bad flex disc (it is _NOT_ a guibo, which is defined as
something different. smarter people than me who I trust
have told me this, I don't argue with them) can be the culprit
but it could also be the center D/S support bearing or the
U-joints in the driveshaft itself.
a vibration is usually from rotating pieces like all this
D/S stuff. a clunk would be from mounts which shift
under load. I'd check subframe bushings (they might
not be making the noise under braking for some other
reason) and the diff mount.
there's a whole mess of stuff under there which gets
worn out.
Ben
every bit of rubber but the diff mount is new, all nice
& poly-y or delrin-y.
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 09:10:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: Joel Gallun <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 318i '84 E30 Vibration on Acceleration
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
On Fri, 16 Jul 2004, ben keyes wrote:
> there's a whole mess of stuff under there which gets
> worn out.
and most likely on an '84 318 ALL of it is. Not trying to rain on your
parade or anything, but that's been my experience after owning a number of
old e30s.
joel
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 09:45:50 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: 318i '84 E30 Vibration on Acceleration
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Yes, it could be a motor mount or transmission mount problem. On the M20
motor, the passenger side motor mount is notoriously weak. The trans
mounts go bad if the rear trans seal is leaking lube on them. On the
M20-equipped cars, I've had both mounts fail at different times, but it did
not result in a vibration. But since you have the M10, I can't tell you
that this is not the case.
Alex Cagann mentioned the flex disc, which, along with the driveshaft
center support bearing, are common failure items too. But they turn at
road speed, and you said your vibration is engine-speed-related. Offhand,
I don't know any other common causes of engine speed vibrations.
Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA
>Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 20:10:02 -0400
>From: "Art Ream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: 318i '84 E30 Vibration on Acceleration
>Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
<snip>
>
> When I accelerate in any gear there is a significant vibration which is
>directly proportional to the engine's rpm. Now, when in 5 gear running at
>around 50-55 mph, this is reduced significantly but the engine is not
under
>load. Now if the speed and engine rpm are increased to running at 60-70 a
>constant vibration happens. Noisy as all Hell...
>
> Could this be engine mounts? Transmission Mounts?
>
> I have no idea what to look at first on this one...
>
>Thanks in advance for any suggestions and advice.
>
>Art Ream
>'84 BMW 318i E30
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 21:20:57 -0700
From: Tom Reynolds <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "BMW List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Weird tire wear problem - E39 528i wagon
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Dennis,
I'd have the undercarriage examined by your BMW shop first before
getting the 4 wheel alignment. Reason being is that if there _is_
something that needs to be adjusted or fixed and you have the alignment
first, it will just have to be redone later if there's a problem with the
suspension.
Best regards (now on two lists together)
Tom
Hereford, AZ
At 11:20 PM 07/15/2004 -0400, Dennis Liu wrote:
>
>So, my wife's 2000 E39 528i Touring was handling a little funny today. At
>slow speeds, it would "hop", then gradually disappear, reappear around 60
>mph as a vibration, then disappear above 80 mph. I took it to a shop to get
>the wheels re-balanced, but then discovered that the left rear tire was
>severely worn on the inside shoulder. Down to the cord, about to blow out.
>GULP. Now, I took the snow tires off in early April, and the car has done
>maybe 4-5k miles since then.
>
>Am I correct to assume that this massive shoulder wear is caused by a
>misalignment in the rear? The other three tires are perfectly normal, with
>even wear across the tread. The outside shoulder of the tire in question
>looks perfectly normal.
>
>My plan is to get a replacement tire, then have the car 4-wheel-aligned.
>Will this likely solve the problem? Or is there a suspension component now
>in question?
>
>Any and all comments, questions and suggestions would be appreciated!
>
>TIA,
>
>--Dennis
>
>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
>
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 08:01:41 -0400
From: Vic Maslanka <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Weird tire wear problem - E39 528i wagon
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
While there could be suspension damage and / or need for an alignment
change, it could just be a bad tire. But have it thoroughly checked out so
that you don't end up ruining another tire.
Vic Maslanka
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 23:38:16 -0500
From: Mark and Heather Williams <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: bmwuucdigest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Azenis (was New Fuzion) Tires
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Fo shizlle my nizzle!
The Azenis' are the cat's meizzle..
After many season of R tire use... I decided to step down
to the Azenis for autocross so I could stay in the same
class as last year while adding more mods..
I've used the Azenis in cool weather and HOT weather
and in dry and wet weather for both autocross and track.
My conclusions... these things feel like R tires at times..
especially when cool... At the track, if the temps are
below 60 degrees, they are phenomenal.. they feel like
R tires all the way through the session...
>From 60-80 degrees... they feel pretty damn good but
heat up and squeal a tad at the end of the session.
>From 80 degress and up... they heat up after about
7-9 minutes, and then begin to squeal and squirm and feel
greasy like any other street tire..
At the autocross.. they are best on the second run...
The third run might be ok... but the 4th run you better
be smooth like butta or they'll just give out on you..
Do they grip in corner like an R tire.. no.. but pretty
damn good for what they are, and WAY better than any other
street tire...
LEE... I did not buy these for the longest time because
they came in a skinny wrong sized 205/50 rather than the
OE 205/55 and the plus zero 225/50 that most E30 M3 owners use..
ALL.. For E36, they come in a 245/45/17 that again is too tall
but hey.... If you need the fastest street tire.. then
stop worrying about sizes and just buy them!
I paid $300 for a set shipped as opposed to $500 for
RR tires.... The ego smarts a bit when I see that I can
finish in the top ten at our local autocrosses on the
Azenis, knowing I would be *so* much faster with a true
R tire.... sigh... . If you are in it to win it...
then go with an R tire....
Other than that... *highly* recommended as a summer super
sticky street or autocross or even track tire... The
cooler the temps the better..
Mark Williams
Dallas, TX
91 ///M3 2.5L
>----------------------------
>
>Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 11:54:06 -0400
>From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: New Fuzion Tires
>Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>You forgot overly nearrow......I think it's funny seeing sizes like:
>205/45-17. They look good wrapped around cheap metal over bright blue brake
>drums......"yea man, my Civic's brakes are so good, they never get into the
>ABS."
>
>Although the Azenis is a pretty good tire. It's the schizzie-nizzle wit da
>auto-x peeps.
>
>I've heard it's actually not a bad tire for track use either. I'd buy it if
>it were in a reasonable size.
>
>Lee->chillin' like a villian in da
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 08:34:50 -0400
From: "chet.dawes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: New Fuzion Tires (+ a free rant on the ES100's)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I'll add my $0.02 (and then some) on the ES100's as well:
Absolutely my least favorite tire that I've driven significant miles on.
I've used many all-season tires that perform far better! I tracked them
once (in the dry) and they were underperforming there too (albeit
slightly better than on the street). If the ambient temps dropped below
about 60F, these tires were worthless for traction. And rain
performance? Ha! All the marketing in the world won't convince me that
this is a good rain tire. Good thing these things are cheap, because
they sure perform as such! Oh, but if you can put up with the high
level of noise, quick wear, poor rain performance if more than 1/3 worn,
mediocre dry traction fully warm, poor dry traction when not
warm........I could not wait to wear them out and replace them. By the
way my 215/45-17's had exactly 1 track day and in total <14k street
miles before they were past the wear bars and were removed. The
Michelin PS2's I replaced them with have been absolute heaven both on
the street and on the track. Worth every penny of the price difference
in traction/safety alone.
My theory as to why any one would give positive reviews of the ES100:
I don't believe they have ever driven anything better, or they are too
fiscally responsible (i.e. cheap) to pony up for the good stuff. Either
that, or they just can't be a hard-core enthusiast. I have been really
disappointed to see some recent raves in Roundel about these tires.
Satch wrote about their stellar snow performance when they some how
saved his a** when he had nearly run out of talent in the mountains.
Then, in the most recent issue there is a long-term test review that
also speaks highly of the ES100. I guess all that advertising they do
in Roundel has paid off.....or did they pay off the
authors/editors......hmmmm? ;)
Unfortunately, Yokohoma has done a fantastic job with size availability,
cost and marketing. Therefore, has the general public buying the heck
out of these 'ultra-high performance' tires. They've become one of the
very few options for 'high-performance' tires in a 14" or 15" diameter.
These tires have tainted my general view of Yokohoma tires as a whole.
I don't know that I'll ever try another Yoko product.
I got what I paid for, a cheap tire. Never again.
My rant for the day,
Chet Dawes
> Re: New Fuzion Tires
> Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 12:31:57 -0400
> From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: New Fuzion Tires
>
> I have a set of ES100's which have been the worst tire bar
> none that I have
> ever used. POS x 10.
>
> Mike
>
> Date: Thu, 15 Jul 2004 12:21:38 -0500
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: New Fuzion Tires
>
> I will second that.
> I could not wait for those POS's to wear out.
> Squirmy, extremely noisy, soft side walls and mediocre rain
> traction once
> half-worn.
> alex f
>
> ->
> -> It is priced along with Yoko ES100s, which allot of guys
> -> love but get bad reviews for the short short wear life.
> ->
> -> I'd rather get 30K miles out of a $150 tire (ie Pirelli
> -> P7000 Supersport or Bridgestone Potenza) than 10K miles out
> -> of a $95 tire. Simple economics.
> ->
> -> Phil
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 08:54:27 -0400
From: Mike Mitchell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Rear Toe Alignment; 04 330ci
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Is rear toe adjustment on an '04 330ci a DIY project?
Any links or suggestions?
Avid autocrosser here. Run mostly stock set-up on Victos.
I'd like to get the rear end to move a bit more...
with the car a bit looser at turn in.
I understand stock setting is toed in...wanted to set it at
zero toe. (In SCCA stock classes you cannot change rear bar)
Mike M
#90 DS
CENDIV
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 09:16:00 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 318i '84 E30 Vibration on Acceleration
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Flex disk
Gary Derian
>
> THE PROBLEM.
>
> After getting both front wheel bearings done and removing that obnoxious
> noise on my newly acquired 21 year old car, I find another:
>
> When I accelerate in any gear there is a significant vibration which is
> directly proportional to the engine's rpm. Now, when in 5 gear running at
> around 50-55 mph, this is reduced significantly but the engine is not
under
> load. Now if the speed and engine rpm are increased to running at 60-70 a
> constant vibration happens. Noisy as all Hell...
>
> Could this be engine mounts? Transmission Mounts?
>
> I have no idea what to look at first on this one...
>
> Thanks in advance for any suggestions and advice.
>
> Art Ream
> '84 BMW 318i E30
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 09:45:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Azenis (was New Fuzion) Tires
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Howdy,
On Thu, 15 Jul 2004, Mark and Heather Williams wrote:
> ALL.. For E36, they come in a 245/45/17 that again is too tall
> but hey.... If you need the fastest street tire.. then
> stop worrying about sizes and just buy them!
FWIW, I run the 225/45-17 on my '93 e36 STX car. The Azenis tend to run a
bit wider than the listed spec.
Another note about them though is that they are _heavy_ tires. Those
tires, on a '95 M3 wheel, weigh a freaking ton. finances dictate that I
need to stick with that, but I'm not happy about it.
> Other than that... *highly* recommended as a summer super
> sticky street or autocross or even track tire... The
> cooler the temps the better..
As an autox tire, these things are awesome. Good performance (class
leading performance if you're restricted to street tires per SCCA ST*
classes), _awesome_ wear. I'd be on my third set of Hoosier A3S03's or
_maybe_ at the end of set #2 by now if I wasn't running these... I've got
five regular events with two drivers, two test 'n tunes with two drivers,
and an evo school weekend with two drivers.... And the tires look awesome
(probably still 3/32" or more). Oh and probably 5k+ street miles.
What I wouldn't recommend them for is much street driving unless you don't
get rain. When new they're fine in the wet, but after they've worn down
to where ours are now, they're very prone to hydroplanning. We were
planning on running them as a summer tire, but the poor wet performance
lead us to get a cheap set of other 15" tires to run on the snow wheels
instead (Kumho 711's... ~$50/tire. :-)
Anyway, I highly recommend the Azenis as an autocross tire, not so much
for street usage if you get much of any rain.
Mark
(Speaking of which... Anyone got a set of 15" e36 wheels they don't want
much money for? I need to give our winter tires some wheels to be on
now... :-)
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 11:45:57 -0400
From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'UUCDigest'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: This made enough stir for Autoweek......
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
http://www.autoweek.com/cat_content.mv?port_code=autoweek&cat_code=carnews&l
oc_code=index&content_code=02612566
More than anything what would concern me is that these s---boxes blow them
selves to bits after a few autocrosses.
My E30 M3 has prolly 150+ autocrosses & many track days in the last six
years (on a 151k milage car) & hasn't had any problems that would've
warranted a warranty claim. I, for one would be p.o'd soemthing fierce if
my $35k, '04 Evo blew up anything worth $7000 in the first year, no matter
how much it was autocrossed. I'd be likely to set it on fire in the service
bay!!!!! I certainly wouldn't put Euro manufacturers above this either.
Hell, I thrash the hell out of both of my cars--prolly more than 90% of
drivers (even autocrossers) & neither one has been bad.
One of the tricks now is that all of the new cars will "tell" on you. When
we got the software for GM cars, we checked Tim's Z06, which has been
heavily trakced (prolly 30+ days a year). It lets the service guy know how
many times the rev limiter's been pegged, how often the ABS has been
engaged, how often it thinks the active handling intervened (even goes so
far as to tell when it THINKS it should've gone off had it been turned on).
They still re-ringed his motor.
I can maybe somewhat see tracking, as that's brutal on a car, but an
autocross??? C'mon, my cars suffer worse on the drive to work.
I guess the adage "they don't make 'em like they used to." may hold true.
Lee
88 M3->never, ever, ever driven without a good thrashing
01 Saab 9-3SE->ditto, although it just went out of warranty this week, so no
matter
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 12:03:38 -0400
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: New Fuzion Tires
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Help me out here...I've gotten over 20K miles (and should see 30K before I
swap) on my SS P7000s. I drive aggressively, rotate, check air pressure
regularly etc. I've been fairly satisfied with there performance and wear
life. Yet when I read some reviews on Tirerack there are guys driving
Porsches and BMWs that complain about getting 25K to 30K miles on this
performance tire. From my research I can't find a comparable tire (Cost,
performance, etc) that gets anywhere close in wear life. Most of the
Yokohama reviews say the tires are great but 10K miles seems to be the
limit for tread life. For most people this would mean mounting and
balancing a full set of tires 2 to 3 times per year - ouch.
I guess my question is this: If I was looking for a summer/all-season,
higher performance tire, 235/40R17 - what should be the typically miles per
life of tire? I understand the many variables, but an estimate would do.
I'm inclined to think that 20-30K miles is good. Which leads me to think
anything under 15K, ie Yokos and Dunlops, is terrible.
Phil
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
om To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent by: cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL
PROTECTED]
[EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] New Fuzion Tires
cdigest.com
07/15/2004 01:21 PM
Please respond to
bmwuucdigest
"Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I have a set of ES100's which have been the worst tire bar none
> that I have ever used. POS x 10.
I will second that.
I could not wait for those POS's to wear out.
Squirmy, extremely noisy, soft side walls and mediocre rain traction once
half-worn.
discounttiredirect.com has a fire sale on old Michelin Pilot Sports. At
$130 for 235/40-17 size, they are no longer the top of the performance
tire world, but at this price, they are a performance bargain.
alex f
->
-> It is priced along with Yoko ES100s, which allot of guys
-> love but get bad reviews for the short short wear life.
->
-> I'd rather get 30K miles out of a $150 tire (ie Pirelli
-> P7000 Supersport or Bridgestone Potenza) than 10K miles out
-> of a $95 tire. Simple economics.
->
-> Phil
Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 10:13:27 -0700 (PDT)
From: Mr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Changing Valve Cover Gasket
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Grettings all,
I'm finally getting around to changing the valve cover
gasket on my 95 325i and was wondering if anyone had
any last minute tips or advice that would help. I
would hate to run into any unexpected surprises and be
out of a car for the weekend. Thank in advance!!
Manuel Paredes
95 325i lots o'mods
L.A. BMWCCA
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 16 Jul 2004 13:32:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Changing Valve Cover Gasket
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
- I usually like to maximize time with the oil cap in place. put it back after rmoving
the engine
cover while working on the valve cover bolts. Lots of little screws plus dirt flying
around that
don't need to be in the motor.
- The last couple bolts holding the cover in place are kind of tight to get to.
- Make sure you don't drop the rear driver's side bolt. I really don't know where that
one went.
Got to buy a new one.
- Cordless drill and a deep socket (think 12mm) will speed bolt removal and insertion
for LOTS of
bolts. Dont forget a ziplock or bowl for all the bits.
- The bolts are part of inserts the go into the block. You Don't necessarily need to
get the whole
insert extracted to change the cover. I got the first one out whole, and the rest of
them stayed in
the block with just the top nut coming off. Some people insist on changing these
inserts. Fine
seemed fine.
- The cover may be a little sticky when you try to pop it up. Just pry gently here
and there; it
will pop loose.
- The fuel injector rail takes a little prying (straight up) to get off. Don't be shy.
- Dont forget permatex or some other high temp sealant at the frton passenger's corner
and at the
rear of the gasket (You'll see the spots when you remove the old gasket).
Marc Plante
E36 M3/4, 53k
2002 Audi AR
E36 325i, 220k [Gone]
Vienna, VA
------------------------------
End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(14 messages)
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