The BMW UUC Digest
Volume 2 : Issue 417 : "text" Format
Messages in this Issue:
Re: <E30> engine running problem
Re: <E30> engine running problem
e36 AL front undertray?
Re: e36 AL front undertray?
Re: Mich Hydroedge
Re: Mich Hydroedge
Re: <E30> engine running problem
Re: <E30> strangest check engine code ever
Re: <E30> strangest check engine code ever
Re: Very Stiff/Notchy Shifting - E46
Re: Very Stiff/Notchy Shifting - E46
Re: HID Recall (was Fw: [LSCchat] FYI)
Re: ABS sensors E36
Re: ABS sensors E36
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 Nov 2004 08:51:38 -0600
From: Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "Pharr, Jeff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: <E30> engine running problem
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
There's an electrical connector under the throttle body that is prone to
corrosion and problems from oil running onto it. Have you looked at this
yet?
Clarence
West Bend, WI
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 08:35:56 -0800 (PST)
From: Tammer Farid <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: <E30> engine running problem
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Also Jeff,
Have you had a chance to get a fuel pressure gauge on it?
-tammer
--- Clarence <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> There's an electrical connector under the throttle body
> that is prone to
> corrosion and problems from oil running onto it. Have
> you looked at this
> yet?
>
> Clarence
> West Bend, WI
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------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 12:25:09 -0500 (EST)
From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: e36 AL front undertray?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Howdy,
I seem to recall having seen a company advertise a one piece AL front
bumper undertray for an e36, but I can't find it now...
Anyone know a place that sells something like this?
Thanks!
Mark
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 10:03:45 -0800 (PST)
From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: e36 AL front undertray?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Mark,
I believe you're thinking of JT Designs.
http://store.yahoo.com/jtdesigns/body.html
Main site at http://www.jt-designs.com
$175.
My ...$175.02,
Brian
--- Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Howdy,
>
> I seem to recall having seen a company advertise a
> one piece AL front
> bumper undertray for an e36, but I can't find it
> now...
>
> Anyone know a place that sells something like this?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mark
>
> Search the
>
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
__________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast,
> founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and
> home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
__________________________________
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Check out the new Yahoo! Front Page.
www.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 11:31:29 -0800
From: "Gordo, Ping \(Space Technology\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Mich Hydroedge
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
My Yoko ES100's didn't last very long, maybe 5K miles and I'm a very mild driver so I
need new shoes. What is the consensus on the Hydroedge out there? Anybody has 'em
installed? I've read the "noise' comments from TireRack but they're from soccer moms,
not the autox crowd. All comments welcome.
TIA
Pingger
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 03 Nov 2004 15:06:01 -0500
From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Mich Hydroedge
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Never used them. I've found the Toyo T1-s's to be reliable all around tires that are
quiet and happy on everything from hwy to track.
Marc Plante
E36 M3/4 59k
vienna, VA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordo, Ping (Space Technology)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [UUC] Mich Hydroedge
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 11:31:29 -0800
>
> My Yoko ES100's didn't last very long, maybe 5K miles and I'm a very mild driver so
> I need new shoes. What is the consensus on the Hydroedge out there? Anybody has 'em
> installed? I've read the "noise' comments from TireRack but they're from soccer
> moms, not the autox crowd. All comments welcome.
>
> TIA
>
> Pingger
>
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 11:49:22 -0800
From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: <E30> engine running problem
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
On Wed, Nov 03, 2004 at 08:11:32AM -0500, Pharr, Jeff wrote:
> What is a CE?
Check Engine (light)?
> Grounding was an interesting question... I ran a jumper cable from the
> neg terminal of the battery directly to the block and did not change
> the symptom. I was unable to find any injection specific harness
> ground to check but I was short on time. I will give this another
> look the next time I can look at the car.
The closest you might find to an injection harness ground would be the
ECU body itself. The injectors have +12V supplied to one side all the
time and the ECU fires them by grounding the other side.
--
"It is an honor to be Cookie Monster."
-Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 14:56:38 -0500
From: "Pharr, Jeff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: <E30> strangest check engine code ever
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
So I have been working to resolve an odd engine running problem and had
about 5 min to poke at the car this afternoon and based on several
suggestions I took a look at the TPS.
I was getting odd results and suspected I wasn't getting good contact
with my DVM so I decided to quit and mess with it when I had more time
to do the test properly. I reconnected the TPS and AFM connectors and
on a lark started up the car. The odd engine miss at 4K RPM is gone and
now I have a Check Engine light.
I did the stop test and retrieved the code: 19 - 17 - 56 - 2 !!! WTF I
watched it repeat 3 times. Any clues to the meaning of that code?
Doesn't seem to be on any of the lists I have.
--Jeff
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:bmwuucdigest-
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Pharr, Jeff
> Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2004 8:12 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Cc: JKerouac
> Subject: Re: [UUC] <E30> engine running problem
>
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 12:30:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Pharr, Jeff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: <E30> strangest check engine code ever
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- "Pharr, Jeff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>I did the stop test and retrieved the code: 19 - 17 - 56 - 2 !!! WTF
>I watched it repeat 3 times.
Jeff, you're saying the light repeated 19 times, paused, then it
blinked 17 times, paused, then it blinked 56 times? And then twice.
And you sat thru this 3 times?
Maybe your ECU is fried because that is the oddest thing I've ever
heard. Now, that you sat there for 3 cycles is also odd. :-)
The codes are supposed to be single digits (4-3-2-2) or something like
that.
Carlos.
__________________________________
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Check out the new Yahoo! Front Page.
www.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 16:07:20 -0500
From: "John Riganati" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "'J. Ochi'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Very Stiff/Notchy Shifting - E46
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Thanks to everyone for the responses. I did a little more playing around
last night. Some additional information.
Once I get the car to go into any of the gears, it's much easier, almost
normal effort, to shift to any of the other gears, as long as I keep the
clutch pedal depressed. If the engine is running, once I release the clutch
pedal, the process starts over. If the engine is not running, releasing the
clutch pedal makes no difference.
At a stop light this morning, I couldn't get the car into gear. I put
pressure on the shifter toward first gear, and then released the brake
(clutch pedal depressed) so that the car rolled forward a few feet. As soon
as the car started rolling forward, the shifter slid into gear without a
problem.
I bled the clutch (at the slave underneath the car) when I changed the fluid
about 10,000 miles ago. I didn't see any obvious leakage at that time, and
this same problem was what prompted me to change the fluid to start with.
Thanks again for the guidance. I'm hoping to resolve this before I do any
damage.
Regards - John Riganati
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of J. Ochi
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 3:16 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [UUC] Very Stiff/Notchy Shifting - E46
At 06:32 AM 11/2/2004, John Riganati wrote:
>Hello All -
>My 5spd 2000 E46 has become very difficult to shift into gear.
This could very well be the clutch, not the tranny. Here's a diagnostic
procedure:
1. Car idling, parking brake on, no one in front of car.
2. Clutch pedal all the way down, try to move the shifter into first gear
3. If it's hard to get the shifter into first, press the stick to the
resistance point (about halfway between neutral and first) and hold it there
4. Turn off the engine.
If the shifter slides into first with the engine off, then it's probably
something in the clutch system. Bleed the clutch, check the master/slave
for leakage, etc. If you're using an aftermarket clutch stop, try removing
it to see if the problem goes away. Make sure the carpet/floor mat isn't
bunching up under the clutch pedal.
If the shifter doesn't slide into first, then check the linkage for
binding, stuff in the way, etc. If that's not it, it may be the tranny
itself...
Hope this helps,
Jim Ochi
Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 16:36:36 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Very Stiff/Notchy Shifting - E46
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Jack up both rear wheels and shift into gear with the engine running. If
pressure on the shifter causes the wheels to turn while the clutch pedal is
held down, that will confirm a dragging clutch.
Gary Derian
> Thanks to everyone for the responses. I did a little more playing around
> last night. Some additional information.
>
> Once I get the car to go into any of the gears, it's much easier, almost
> normal effort, to shift to any of the other gears, as long as I keep the
> clutch pedal depressed. If the engine is running, once I release the
clutch
> pedal, the process starts over. If the engine is not running, releasing
the
> clutch pedal makes no difference.
>
> At a stop light this morning, I couldn't get the car into gear. I put
> pressure on the shifter toward first gear, and then released the brake
> (clutch pedal depressed) so that the car rolled forward a few feet. As
soon
> as the car started rolling forward, the shifter slid into gear without a
> problem.
>
> I bled the clutch (at the slave underneath the car) when I changed the
fluid
> about 10,000 miles ago. I didn't see any obvious leakage at that time,
and
> this same problem was what prompted me to change the fluid to start with.
>
> Thanks again for the guidance. I'm hoping to resolve this before I do any
> damage.
>
> Regards - John Riganati
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of J. Ochi
> Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 3:16 PM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [UUC] Very Stiff/Notchy Shifting - E46
>
> At 06:32 AM 11/2/2004, John Riganati wrote:
>
> >Hello All -
> >My 5spd 2000 E46 has become very difficult to shift into gear.
>
> This could very well be the clutch, not the tranny. Here's a diagnostic
> procedure:
>
> 1. Car idling, parking brake on, no one in front of car.
> 2. Clutch pedal all the way down, try to move the shifter into first gear
> 3. If it's hard to get the shifter into first, press the stick to the
> resistance point (about halfway between neutral and first) and hold it
there
> 4. Turn off the engine.
>
> If the shifter slides into first with the engine off, then it's probably
> something in the clutch system. Bleed the clutch, check the master/slave
> for leakage, etc. If you're using an aftermarket clutch stop, try
removing
> it to see if the problem goes away. Make sure the carpet/floor mat isn't
> bunching up under the clutch pedal.
>
> If the shifter doesn't slide into first, then check the linkage for
> binding, stuff in the way, etc. If that's not it, it may be the tranny
> itself...
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Jim Ochi
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
>
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 13:18:13 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: HID Recall (was Fw: [LSCchat] FYI)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I forwarded the HID recall article to GGC member Larry Ayers, a lighting
consultant who used to run a lighting test lab that tested automotive
lighting. Here are his comments, not that you actually needed him to tell
you this.
Scott Miller
GGC BMW CCA
>As for HID headlamp conversions, the article shows a basic failure to
>understand much about HID headlamps, but clearly a retrofit kit would
>have big problems meeting the intensity distribution for even the
>recently harmonized headlamp requirements. I recall a website statement
>about a conversion kit: the purveyor stated that his kit eliminated the
>high beams, but no user missed them; more correctly, all other traffic
>really missed the low beams that were actually missing! Kits like those
>give HID headlamps a bad name.
>
>Larry
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 20:44:19 -0500
From: "Michael Gambini" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: ABS sensors E36
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
The sensors cost about $85 each so you better guess right. Might want to
pull them out and clean them first.
MikeG
----- Original Message -----
From: "P Kroon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> My ABS light is randomly coming on in my 96 328i. I
> understand that this is typically caused by one or
> more bad front abs sensors.
>
> While replacing the front control arms, I noticed that
> the wire on one side looked like it was slightly
> pulled out from the connector, so I'm guessing this is
> the problem. I'd like to replace both, however.
>
> Are the front abs sensors the same for a 96 328i (4
> door) as a 98 M3 2 door? I found a good deal on a
> used pair of front abs sensors from a 98 M3.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Paul
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2004 05:48:56 -0800 (PST)
From: P Kroon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: ABS sensors E36
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I'd rather not guess at all, that's why I asked :)
I've already tried cleaning them, that didn't work
either. I found a pair that I can pick up for $25
plus shipping. As I mentioned, the only potential
hang-up is that they are from a 98 M3, not a 96 328i.
Thanks,
Paul
--- Michael Gambini <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The sensors cost about $85 each so you better guess
> right. Might want to
> pull them out and clean them first.
> MikeG
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "P Kroon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > My ABS light is randomly coming on in my 96 328i.
> I
> > understand that this is typically caused by one or
> > more bad front abs sensors.
> >
> > While replacing the front control arms, I noticed
> that
> > the wire on one side looked like it was slightly
> > pulled out from the connector, so I'm guessing
> this is
> > the problem. I'd like to replace both, however.
> >
> > Are the front abs sensors the same for a 96 328i
> (4
> > door) as a 98 M3 2 door? I found a good deal on a
> > used pair of front abs sensors from a 98 M3.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Paul
>
>
> Search the
>
ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
__________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast,
> founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and
> home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
>
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Check out the new Yahoo! Front Page.
www.yahoo.com
------------------------------
End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(14 messages)
**********
