The BMW UUC Digest
Volume 2 : Issue 419 : "text" Format
Messages in this Issue:
Re: E36 Intermittent valve tick
Re: Random BMW Stuff
<E30> Retrofit a convertible rear window heater and fan in a
non-convertible
Re: <E30> Retrofit a convertible rear window heater and fan in a non-convertible
Re: <E30> Retrofit a convertible rear window heater and fan in a non-convertible
Re: Mad Mini
Fair price for 740i work?
Head Gasket Failure
Re: Head Gasket Failure
Re: Head Gasket Failure
Re: "EWS Input" fault on a 1997 318ic
E36 fuel level sender collar tool
E36 fuel level sender collar tool
Re: E36 fuel level sender collar tool
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Thu, 04 Nov 2004 18:56:12 -0800
From: "J. Ochi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: E36 Intermittent valve tick
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
At 09:51 AM 11/4/2004, Ryan and Dee Dee Brenneman wrote:
>Do individual lifters wear out?
Yes, I've seen E36's where one or two lifters were partially collapsed,
causing those valves to tick. Changing out those lifters fixed the problem.
Maybe using one of those oil system flush additives would do the trick, but
I haven't tried any of them in my car, so don't have any first-hand
experience with them...
Jim Ochi
------------------------------
Date: 4 Nov 2004 19:26:57 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Random BMW Stuff
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 2. Does anyone know what the function of the diode is in an E30 rear
> defroster switch?
It prevents valve tick.
And Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The general purpose of diodes is to prevent current
> flow in two directions. As the rear window defroster
> is a very high current item (30A I believe) such
> protection is quite necessary.
Please explain in terms an ordinary EE can understand.
Curt Ingrahama
Oakland, CA
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 04 Nov 2004 20:34:44 -0800
From: "scott" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: <E30> Retrofit a convertible rear window heater and fan in a
non-convertible
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Hi,
The E30 convertibles had a heater and fan to defrost the rear window. The sedans do
not, but they
do have fresh air exit vents below the rear window. Has anyone thought of or even
actually
performed a retrofit of the fan from a convertible into a non-convertible? My car has
a hard time
evaporating condensation on the rear window, even with the wire window defroster
turned on.
Thanks for the help,
- Scott
------------------------------
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2004 21:53:02 -0800
From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: <E30> Retrofit a convertible rear window heater and fan in a
non-convertible
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
On Thu, Nov 04, 2004 at 08:34:44PM -0800, scott wrote:
> Hi,
>
> The E30 convertibles had a heater and fan to defrost the rear window.
> The sedans do not, but they do have fresh air exit vents below the
> rear window. Has anyone thought of or even actually performed a
> retrofit of the fan from a convertible into a non-convertible? My car
> has a hard time evaporating condensation on the rear window, even with
> the wire window defroster turned on.
That whole assembly fits neatly into a spot stamped into the sheet
metal behind the seatback. Given the non-similarity of almost
everything in that area between hardtops & ragtops, I doubt that it
would fit.
--
"It is an honor to be Cookie Monster."
-Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2004 05:56:44 -0800 (PST)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: scott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: <E30> Retrofit a convertible rear window heater and fan in a
non-convertible
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- scott <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> The E30 convertibles had a heater and fan to defrost the rear window.
I have a heater/fan that I used on an old POS E21 that I used as a
winter beater which had broken rear defrost lines. Want it? It's
cheap, noisy, etc. The E30 convertible fans are also noisy so it's
just like having one of those! :-)
Seriously buy it. :-/
Carlos.
ex-78 320i/330i POS wouldn't pass WA state emissions so I dragged it
with me to MI.
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2004 06:11:18 -0500
From: "M540" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Mad Mini
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Paul Garnier wrote:
> Seriously. How is he getting the car to rotate like that? You think he
> seperated the right & left brakes? You think he eliminated the rear
> brakes and left the hand brake only for rear?
>Brian Ghidinelli replied:
>The explanation I heard on another list was a RWD conversion and _extreme_
>front brake bias.
Check out the size difference between the front tires and the rear tires on
that Mini as well. Your BMW could probably do the same thing with 135s in
the back. :)
Kevin
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 05 Nov 2004 11:18:16 -0600
From: Dennis Wynne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Fair price for 740i work?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
A friend of mine had his 740i repaired recently and was asking me if he
paid a fair price or not. He got a code due to
2 faulty coils, he was told. They replaced all 8 ($75 x 8) plus 8 spark
plug connectors ($13 x 8) and the valve
cover gaskets (2 x $22). So about $750 in parts and $360 in labor.
Sound fair?
Thanks!
Dennis
01 M5 silver/black
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2004 13:27:43 -0600
From: "Kris Welhart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Bmwuucdigest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "E36M3" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Head Gasket Failure
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Hello all,
I now have a second blown head gasket on my 95 m3 with 3.2l conversion,
still OBD-1, Conforti chip, recent euro HFM and 24# injectors installed. The
car had a stock HFM, conforti chip, and 21.5 # injectors for the entire life
of the first failure and 9/10's of the time to the current failure. all
innards are stock, all but cat back exhaust is stock. The symptoms are
identical to the first failure 3 years ago which are as follows:
1. The car will begin to blow coolant out of the overflow tank after 20
minutes on the track. It will overheat after around 25 minutes. symptoms
can't be achieved on the street. Appears to take 20 minutes of 5000+ RPMS. I
can drive home 400+ miles with no problems.
2. The point of failure for the first gasket was from a coolant passage to a
oil passage. The head was flat, no visible issues.
3. prior to blowing coolant, the return side radiator hose is VERY
pressurized. Very obvious that some type of pressure is entering the coolant
system, my guess is oil pressure.
4. All oil tests come back normal. Very little, if any, oil in coolant.
My questions are what is causing this and is there a better gasket to use
other than stock? Another repair question: My lifters have been ticking for
the past 5 years of HARD track driving. Should I replace them? What are the
effects of wear and failure after this many years? Thanks for any input. I
am open to all suggestions and opinions.
Happy motoring,
Kris
95 ///M3
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2004 14:23:05 -0800
From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "E36M3" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Head Gasket Failure
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Your failure symptoms are classic S50 blown gasket, I didn't think the S52
had the same problem, but maybe so.
yes use a better head gasket.
BMP sells a "cutting ring" gasket (ala the 2002 Turbo engine)
and VAC sells a multilayer steel gasket
http://www.vacmotorsports.com/cgi-bin/view_cat.pl?cat=Engine+Components#Cyli
nder%20Head%20Gaskets
I'd have posted a link to the BMP one but since they "upgraded" their
website I can't find a damn thing on it.
I've used the BMP one in my race car for 2 years. I'm putting the VAC one
into it now ( doing a complete rebuild) since BMP seemed perpetually out of
theirs earlier this year. The VAC looks to be pretty good and it comes
highly recommended.
good luck.
Marco
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kris Welhart
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 11:28 AM
To: Bmwuucdigest; E36M3
Subject: [UUC] Head Gasket Failure
Hello all,
I now have a second blown head gasket on my 95 m3 with 3.2l conversion,
still OBD-1, Conforti chip, recent euro HFM and 24# injectors installed. The
car had a stock HFM, conforti chip, and 21.5 # injectors for the entire life
of the first failure and 9/10's of the time to the current failure. all
innards are stock, all but cat back exhaust is stock. The symptoms are
identical to the first failure 3 years ago which are as follows:
1. The car will begin to blow coolant out of the overflow tank after 20
minutes on the track. It will overheat after around 25 minutes. symptoms
can't be achieved on the street. Appears to take 20 minutes of 5000+ RPMS. I
can drive home 400+ miles with no problems.
2. The point of failure for the first gasket was from a coolant passage to a
oil passage. The head was flat, no visible issues.
3. prior to blowing coolant, the return side radiator hose is VERY
pressurized. Very obvious that some type of pressure is entering the coolant
system, my guess is oil pressure.
4. All oil tests come back normal. Very little, if any, oil in coolant.
My questions are what is causing this and is there a better gasket to use
other than stock? Another repair question: My lifters have been ticking for
the past 5 years of HARD track driving. Should I replace them? What are the
effects of wear and failure after this many years? Thanks for any input. I
am open to all suggestions and opinions.
Happy motoring,
Kris
95 ///M3
Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2004 14:24:19 -0800
From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "E36M3" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Head Gasket Failure
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
And if you go with VAC tell them I sent you.
I spend a ton of $$ with those guys ;-)
Marco
-----Original Message-----
From: Marco Romani [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 2:23 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; E36M3
Subject: RE: [UUC] Head Gasket Failure
Your failure symptoms are classic S50 blown gasket, I didn't think the S52
had the same problem, but maybe so.
yes use a better head gasket.
BMP sells a "cutting ring" gasket (ala the 2002 Turbo engine)
and VAC sells a multilayer steel gasket
http://www.vacmotorsports.com/cgi-bin/view_cat.pl?cat=Engine+Components#Cyli
nder%20Head%20Gaskets
I'd have posted a link to the BMP one but since they "upgraded" their
website I can't find a damn thing on it.
I've used the BMP one in my race car for 2 years. I'm putting the VAC one
into it now ( doing a complete rebuild) since BMP seemed perpetually out of
theirs earlier this year. The VAC looks to be pretty good and it comes
highly recommended.
good luck.
Marco
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kris Welhart
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 11:28 AM
To: Bmwuucdigest; E36M3
Subject: [UUC] Head Gasket Failure
Hello all,
I now have a second blown head gasket on my 95 m3 with 3.2l conversion,
still OBD-1, Conforti chip, recent euro HFM and 24# injectors installed. The
car had a stock HFM, conforti chip, and 21.5 # injectors for the entire life
of the first failure and 9/10's of the time to the current failure. all
innards are stock, all but cat back exhaust is stock. The symptoms are
identical to the first failure 3 years ago which are as follows:
1. The car will begin to blow coolant out of the overflow tank after 20
minutes on the track. It will overheat after around 25 minutes. symptoms
can't be achieved on the street. Appears to take 20 minutes of 5000+ RPMS. I
can drive home 400+ miles with no problems.
2. The point of failure for the first gasket was from a coolant passage to a
oil passage. The head was flat, no visible issues.
3. prior to blowing coolant, the return side radiator hose is VERY
pressurized. Very obvious that some type of pressure is entering the coolant
system, my guess is oil pressure.
4. All oil tests come back normal. Very little, if any, oil in coolant.
My questions are what is causing this and is there a better gasket to use
other than stock? Another repair question: My lifters have been ticking for
the past 5 years of HARD track driving. Should I replace them? What are the
effects of wear and failure after this many years? Thanks for any input. I
am open to all suggestions and opinions.
Happy motoring,
Kris
95 ///M3
Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2004 17:32:08 -0500
From: "Michael Gilbert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: "EWS Input" fault on a 1997 318ic
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Hey Brett,
Well, you were right (of course!). I read the codes with an OBDII code
reader and I got
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor A - Bank 1 Circuit Malfunction
I cleared the code and the CE light stayed out until I lugged the engine and
then it threw the CE light again. In the ETK I have the "Pulse Generator,
Camshaft" p/n 12-14-1-739-891. Do you think that replacing this will solve
the problem? Or am I missing something here? What else can be the
underlying issue?
TIA,
-Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of KMS - Brett
Anderson
Sent: Friday, October 29, 2004 9:59 PM
To: UUC Digest
Subject: Re: [UUC] "EWS Input" fault on a 1997 318ic
An EWS fault won't set a check engine light.
Have the fault codes read with a more indepth scan tool to find out where
the
problem really lies.
Brett Anderson
KMS
> -----Original Message-----
> I'm getting a check engine light which reads as a #94 "EWS Input" fault
from
> the Peake reader on my new-to-me 1997 318ic. My understanding of the EWS
> system is that it matches up the key to the ignition so that it starts
only
> if the correct key is there, as a theft protection device. I can start
the
> car every time, although the CE light has been lit for the last week (and
as
> far as I know since I bought the car). The car has an aftermarket alarm
in
> it that I'm sure is messing with the EWS.
>
> Is this something to worry about? If I can start the car, is there
anything
> else this fault could mean? Is there anything short of replacing the EWS
> system and key that I should do?
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Mike Gilbert
---
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Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED]
__________________________________________________________________________
In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2004 18:10:03 -0800 (PST)
From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: E36 fuel level sender collar tool
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Hey all,
I'm finally getting around to replacing the fuel level
sender as it leaks when the tank is full and has done
so since I bought the car 2.5 years ago. However, the
tool that was supposed to be available for removing
this collar is NLA from the dealer. What's the
concensus on a replacement tool or method for removing
this?
Thanks,
Brian
93 325
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Check out the new Yahoo! Front Page.
www.yahoo.com
------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2004 18:10:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: E36 fuel level sender collar tool
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Hey all,
I'm finally getting around to replacing the fuel level
sender as it leaks when the tank is full and has done
so since I bought the car 2.5 years ago. However, the
tool that was supposed to be available for removing
this collar is NLA from the dealer. What's the
concensus on a replacement tool or method for removing
this? I've read about the 2 screwdriver thing but I
can't seem to figure out how to do that well enough to
get it loose.
Thanks,
Brian
93 325
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------------------------------
Date: Fri, 5 Nov 2004 21:37:59 -0500
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: E36 fuel level sender collar tool
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Who told you the tool is NLA?
88 88 6 161 020 List price $120, 49 in stock at BMW NA's various parts
warehouses.
Brett Anderson
KMS
> -----Original Message-----
> I'm finally getting around to replacing the fuel level
> sender as it leaks when the tank is full and has done
> so since I bought the car 2.5 years ago. However, the
> tool that was supposed to be available for removing
> this collar is NLA from the dealer. What's the
> concensus on a replacement tool or method for removing
> this? I've read about the 2 screwdriver thing but I
> can't seem to figure out how to do that well enough to
> get it loose.
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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------------------------------
End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(14 messages)
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