The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 361 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: tire question Re: tire question Re: tire question Re: tire question Re: tire question Re: <E30> vacuum lines Re: <E30> vacuum lines Re: Engine stand recommendations <Misc>Re: Going fast at schools Re: <Misc>Re: Going fast at schools Re: <Misc>Re: Going fast at schools Re: e36M3 Air pump issue Re: <E36> Fan delete question <misc> coco mats? Re: <misc> coco mats?
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 20:38:25 -0400 From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: tire question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Kurt, I can understand the desire to run a set of tires "all the way home" when they look so much like slicks already - remember I'm the guy that was showing cord by late morning of the Evolution Challenge school! But what you may want to consider is what happens to S-03s when they get old... they sort of "stop working". My last set of S-03s were one of the best street performance tires in the world when fresh, but by the time the wear bars were about to show, the tires had given up any pretensions of stickiness. When it was cold, I could skate the tires around at parking lot speeds. Point being that you may be disappointed or, worse yet, unpleasantly surprised by how these tires give up easily when worn-out. I strongly suspect that a fresh set of Kumho Ecsta 712s or MXs would make better track tires. Considering the low price, it's worth putting on a fresh set of those rather than blowing a track day due to a no-tire situation. - Rob > >From: Kurt Zimmerman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Subject: tire question > > > >I'm cheap. I've been running some old Bridgestone SO-3 > pole positions >as my track tires. Currently the tires > have about 2mm of tread on >them and are down to the wear > bars. I would like to get a couple more >track days out > of them, however, I'm afraid that I'm putting myself >at > risk by doing so. > > >My question is: Can a street tire be safely run until > its basically a >slick (assuming even wear) like you can > with a Toyo RA-1 or do they >need to be replaced when > they reach the wear bars? > > >Thanks, > > > >Kurt ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 18:41:15 -0700 From: "Joe Elwell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: tire question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'll second Rob's point -you'll be one p'o'ed puppy if those tires go to cord after the first session (or prove useless). Track days cost more than the entry fee, so if you do the math, the new tires - Kumhos or other less expensive tires as Rob suggests - make more sense than it seems. Anyway, be SAFE! ----- Original Message ----- From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 5:38 PM Subject: Re: [UUC] tire question > Kurt, I can understand the desire to run a set of tires "all > the way home" when they look so much like slicks already - > remember I'm the guy that was showing cord by late morning > of the Evolution Challenge school! > > But what you may want to consider is what happens to S-03s > when they get old... they sort of "stop working". My last > set of S-03s were one of the best street performance tires > in the world when fresh, but by the time the wear bars were > about to show, the tires had given up any pretensions of > stickiness. When it was cold, I could skate the tires > around at parking lot speeds. Point being that you may be > disappointed or, worse yet, unpleasantly surprised by how > these tires give up easily when worn-out. > > I strongly suspect that a fresh set of Kumho Ecsta 712s or > MXs would make better track tires. Considering the low > price, it's worth putting on a fresh set of those rather > than blowing a track day due to a no-tire situation. > > - Rob > > > > >From: Kurt Zimmerman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > >Subject: tire question > > > > > >I'm cheap. I've been running some old Bridgestone SO-3 > > pole positions >as my track tires. Currently the tires > > have about 2mm of tread on >them and are down to the wear > > bars. I would like to get a couple more >track days out > > of them, however, I'm afraid that I'm putting myself >at > > risk by doing so. > > > >My question is: Can a street tire be safely run until > > its basically a >slick (assuming even wear) like you can > > with a Toyo RA-1 or do they >need to be replaced when > > they reach the wear bars? > > > >Thanks, > > > > > >Kurt > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 21:46:08 -0400 From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: tire question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > I strongly suspect that a fresh set of Kumho Ecsta 712s or > MXs would make better track tires. Considering the low > price, it's worth putting on a fresh set of those rather > than blowing a track day due to a no-tire situation. That is the truth. I too am cheap and tried to get one more weekend from my Yoks at Mid-Ohio and figured I would keep a close eye on them but would get one last weekend out of them. After the first session, I corded one of them. It didn't take long to figure out that there wasn't much stick left in them at that point either. I luckily found someone willing to rent me one of theirs for $70 for the four sessions they would be there so my weekend wasn't wasted. But, I wish I would have just gotten a new set of tires. I probably won't know how to act when I install some new Toyos RA-1s. Later, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 22:06:06 -0400 From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: tire question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'll add some perspectives as someone who has driven a lot of schools on street tires and (gasp) stock pads, as an instructor with the NCC. I've gotten pretty fast with my car. I've also come to realize that I can use as much or as little of my tires and brakes as I choose at a school. I've driven Yokohama AVSI street tires 30k including a dozen track days, and I've shredded a set of Bridgestone RE 730s in a weekend. The difference was my level of aggression. If you're willing to spend your driver's school listening to your tires, and keeping them at their quiet limit rather than scrubbing them off on every corner, you can make them last a long time, and you'll be surprised how fast you can finesse a car around the track. If you're going to go out and try to chase down that next car, you're going to pay with more brake and tire wear. The choice is yours. Then again, if you're *not* an accomplished driver, realize that those wear bars DO tell you about rain handling, and a rain-slickened race track will be worse than an icy road because of the polish that the pavement gets. Your fun, slick tires will be terrifying in the wet (unless you're playing on a skidpad). The last point is that you probably won't get through tech if the tires are too low, though I suppose it varies by chapter. Marc Plante E36 M3/4 56k Vienna, VA ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 05:28:28 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: tire question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- Marc Plante <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I've driven Yokohama AVSI street tires 30k including a dozen track > days, Yikes, isn't that the worst performance tire ever? If not I bet it's pretty close. Hate, hate, hate, those tires. They rank right up there with EBC green brake pads IMO. > I've shredded a set of Bridgestone RE 730s in a weekend. The > difference was > my level of aggression. Good man. > If you're willing to spend your driver's school listening to your > tires, and > keeping them at their quiet limit rather than scrubbing them off on > every corner, you can make them last a long time Driving gingerly conserving brakes and bonding with the tires isn't exactly my idea of going to the track, but since I still pay for schools I like to get the most I can out of them. I know what you mean but jeez that's one place that you can actually push the car to the very limit and not worry about anyone thinking you're some kind of a-hole for doing it. Given that your instructor and the corner worker's agree. :-) Carlos 88 325is still needs a clutch 93 325is needs to be lighter __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages! http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 18:15:38 -0700 (PDT) From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E30> vacuum lines Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The two line gizmo is a vacuum amplifier for the brake booster. BMW removed it from later stick shift cars. Gary Derian --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > My son noticed a difference in the intake manifold > vacuum lines between the > 325is and his 325i. The "iS" has a single large > lines off the intake "box" > whereas the "i" has two lines coupled at a point to > a check valve. > > Any idea why the difference? > > -Kevin > > > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 20:07:45 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E30> vacuum lines Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks Ed. -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2004 22:32:54 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Engine stand recommendations Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hey Gary, where'd you see that factory stand? ;-) I have two of the them now. Double sided units that can hold two engines, transmissions, diffs, PS boxes, or any combination thereof, at the same time. They're great, but they're outrageously priced at about $1500 each new. Of course, BMW also offers fitted adapters for every engine, trans, diff, etc. I like suspending the engine from the side, instead of loading the bell housing surface. You can actually distort #6 cylinder on an M30 by hanging the engine from the back. Generic stands can hold an engine from the side, with the right adapter. A simple plate of steel with holes in the appropriate places, welded to a round bar that will fit the head tube of the stand, and you're on your way. More stable too. I have M30 plates in stock, waiting for that round tube. Can do M20 as well if anyone's interested. Brett Anderson KMS www.bmwdiffs.com > -----Original Message----- > The official BMW stand attaches to the side of the > block, not the bell housing end and is much nicer > <grin>. > > Gary Derian --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.745 / Virus Database: 497 - Release Date: 08/27/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 08:08:05 -0500 From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <Misc>Re: Going fast at schools Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Carlos: (etc) > --- Marc Plante <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > I've driven Yokohama AVSI street tires 30k including a dozen track > > days, > > Yikes, isn't that the worst performance tire ever? If not I bet it's > pretty close. Hate, hate, hate, those tires. I had decent luck with them in the dry, though they are pretty scary in the wet (though great for skidpad). Overall, I preferred them to the Kuhmo 712s. > Driving gingerly conserving brakes and bonding with the tires isn't > exactly my idea of going to the track, but since I still pay for > schools I like to get the most I can out of them. I'm not talking "looking for parking" slow. I'm talking about keeping the tires at a slight, steady chirp all the way through a corner rather than having them howl all day long. It's not THAT much slower if done correctly, Tire management can be a good skill if you're going to race enduros (the 6+ hr variety, not the club racing, shorter races). You can also learn a lot driving off speed. NCC chapter runs no brakes and off-line exercises that typically involve students running somewhat slower than vanilla laps, but they teach a lot of valuable skills that make the students faster when they get back on line and on power. Just banging out laps is fun, but imho, you can learn a lot by slowing down a bit form time to time. 'sides, since you drive a 2.5, I figured you'd appreciate the benefits of learning to be as smooth as possible to maximize momentum. Marc Plante E36 M3/4, 56k E36 325i, 220k [Gone] Vienna, VA ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 06:19:59 -0700 (PDT) From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <Misc>Re: Going fast at schools Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Often it is faster, especially in a lower powered car. Gary Derian --- Marc Plante <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > I'm not talking "looking for parking" slow. I'm > talking about keeping the tires at a slight, steady > chirp all the way through a corner rather than > having them howl all day long. It's not THAT much > slower if done correctly, Tire management can be a > good skill if you're going to race enduros (the 6+ > hr variety, not the club racing, shorter races). ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 07:26:10 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Marc Plante <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <Misc>Re: Going fast at schools Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- Marc Plante <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >Just banging out laps is fun, but imho, you can learn a lot by slowing >down a bit form time to time. 'sides, since you drive a 2.5, I figured >you'd appreciate the benefits of learning to be as smooth as possible >to maximize momentum. It's my goal in life. :-) Oh yeah make that 2.3L, I sold my old companion the E30 M3 about 5 months ago. I've only had the E36 325is for a little over a month. It's all about momentum for me, unfortunately it makes my tires howl. ;-) Carlos. 88 325is 93 325is x91 M3 totalled but coming back to life soon... __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Y! Messenger - Communicate in real time. Download now. http://messenger.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 08:06:47 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: e36M3 Air pump issue Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 9/13/04 3:32 PM, "Steve Stoner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > It seems the electric air pump on my 97 OBDII M# seems to be running > constantly. The air pump should be controlled by a relay via the ECU as part > of the ignition/emission control system. Typically on cold startup the pump > will run to add oxygen to the exhaust ahead of the cat to improve emissions. > Bently isn't much help. In the overview pictogram of the ignition system, > there is a relay depicted, and in the drawing of the air injection system > there is a solenoid, but no mention of where the relay may be or discussion of > diagnosis. Any one experience this and know where the relay is or if it is > even the likely culprit? I'm not getting any check engine codes. Or is this > indicative of some other issue and the ECU is running the air pump to > compenstate? Car seems to run fine otherwise. Any help would be appreciated. > Steve Stoner, 97 M3. Steve, I don't have time to check right now, but there's a section in Bentley that tells you where electrical components are located. That's the good news. The bad news is that it's not always correct, and I've had a fried engine harness to prove it. However removing a relay shouldn't cause any risk. If you can't otherwise locate the relay, check the wiring diagram to find out what colour wires it has. Then undo the relay/fuse box in the engine compartment (you'll need a long T10 driver) and find the relay by checking wire colours. You may have welded relay contacts. The other thing that comes to mind is the ECU thinking the engine is cold due to absent or faulty coolant temperature sensor input, and therefore running the air injection pump. on 9/13/04 3:32 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > IIRC, the pump is run by the exhaust gasses, not the ECU. There is a valve > on the exhaust manifold that feeds pressure to run the secondary air pump > while the engine is hold. > If it goes bad, it will stick open and run the pump all the time (and into > the ground). > A new valve is somewhere around $90 from the dealer. > For what it's worth, I have a spare one sitting on the shelf (don't ask) > that I will part with for 1/2 the price. Sorry Alex, but that's completely wrong for the OBD-II cars. (Yours is an OBD-I 95, right?) There's a grapefruit-sized electric air pump mounted near the firewall on the passenger side, behind the strut tower. This injects air through a valve assembly into a dedicated manifold that piggybacks on the exhaust manifold. There's also a bleed that goes around the front of the engine to the intake manifold via a non-return valve and a solenoid valve. The secondary air injection blower is controlled by the ECU and operates for a short time on cold start-up. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 08:11:57 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E36> Fan delete question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 9/12/04 5:20 PM, Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > As part of the prep for the 325is for the track I'd like to delete the > clutch/fan. Did it before on my ex-E30 M3 and it worked well. I'll be > installing a water temp gauge (when I figure that one out) to monitor > temps. > > Here's the question, I know the 80/88 aux fan switch is from a 318ti, I > get two part numbers depending on whether the car has an M42 or an M44. > Does it make a difference if I use either one in a '93 325is? > > There's also a screw plug part number and a gasket ring along in the > pic on the ETK, do I need that screw plug? > > (M42 switch) 61 31 8 361 787 > (M44 switch) 61 31 8 376 440 > (Screw plug) 07 11 9 919 146 > (gasket ring) 32 41 1 093 596 Carlos, I have a couple of these lying around. In a hurry now, I'll get back to you later. Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 08:46:21 -0500 (CDT) From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <misc> coco mats? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> There was a time in my life (maybe 25 yrs ago) when I thought coco mats were really cool... somehow, they seemed to make the car more European (whatever that means). Well, the factory mats in my E36 have about had it, and I'm wondering if anybody even does coco mats any more? Anybody? - k ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2004 09:05:59 -0500 From: "Alex Cagann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <misc> coco mats? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Here is a company that advertises in Panorama, the Porsche Club Magazine. 800-461-3533 http://www.cocomats.com Alex Cagann http://www.autoconsortium.com > There was a time in my life (maybe 25 yrs ago) when I thought > coco mats were > really cool... somehow, they seemed to make the car more European > (whatever > that means). Well, the factory mats in my E36 have about had it, and I'm > wondering if anybody even does coco mats any more? Anybody? > > - k ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
