The BMW UUC Digest
Volume 2 : Issue 421 : "text" Format
Messages in this Issue:
FW: Front end rattles...88iX Koni strut Lock Nuts...PITA
Re: FW: Front end rattles...88iX Koni strut Lock Nuts...PITA
Re: FW: Front end rattles...88iX Koni strut Lock Nuts...PITA
Re: 88iX Koni strut Lock Nuts...PITA
Re: FW: Front end rattles...88iX Koni strut Lock Nuts...PITA
Re: FW: Front end rattles...88iX Koni strut Lock Nuts...PITA
Re: FW: Front end rattles...88iX Koni strut Lock Nuts...PITA
Re: FW: Front end rattles...88iX Koni strut Lock Nuts...PITA
need radiator advice for E36 M3
Re: need radiator advice for E36 M3
Re: need radiator advice for E36 M3
Re: HID Lights
<E36> shifter upgrade what else?
Re: <E36> shifter upgrade what else?
Re: Head Gasket Failure
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 10:20:54 -0500
From: "JohnGrills" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: FW: Front end rattles...88iX Koni strut Lock Nuts...PITA
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
OK, I got a diagnosis. top strut lock nuts are WAY loose. Tried air
wrench....shaft just spins.
Now, next problem the darn Konis have a flat tab to hold the shaft of the
strut fixed while torquing down the lock nut...of course, in the e30 upper
strut bearings, this is recessed, so you cant hold it w/anything. Bilstein
has a hex nut to hold the shaft and a 6mm 1/4 drive socket will fit right
through the 19mm 1/2 socket (or spark plug socket) to hold the shaft.
Any ideas how to hold that flat tab still????? I tried to jam a 5mm socket
over it, but I started to maul the tab...which is bad, because that's also
used to adjust the damping rate...
cheers,
John Grills
88M3
88iX
87iC
--------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Sat, 6 Nov 2004 09:28:01 -0500
From: "JohnGrills" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Front end rattles...
Hey all,
Just finally got the iX back on the road after a year behind the wall.
Put new Koni adjustables struts up front...man, what a difference! The HD's
really DO NOT work with the H&R OEM Sport Springs, they just ate themselves
up as they're too tall. I went through 3 sets in 8 yrs.
Now, I still have some squirrels up front, here's the symptoms:
Everything seems tight. I can grab the control arms when the car is jacked
up and cannot move them. Rear bushings seem solid as well.
At slow speed <30, I hear a most annoying rattle like something is loose.
Steering is tight and solid w/no vibration coming thru the wheel, and
tracking is 'let go of the wheel' solid as well. I can blast over rough
surfaces w/confidence....but the noise is annoying.
Most everything is new, including calipers and sway bar connects, but before
I go an replace the seemingly solid control arms (at $200 per) I thought I'd
ask for advice. I'm of a mind to just replace the ball joints. I have new
ones, this is a fine excuse to buy that hydraulic press I've been needin,
and also put in the M3 offset bushings...which of course are a b&^&% to R&R
Cheers,
John Grills
88M3 (Summer/Track ONLY)
88iX (Der Zeige)
87iC (FUN, great runner, bone stock)
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 11:20:00 -0500
From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "JohnGrills" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: FW: Front end rattles...88iX Koni strut Lock Nuts...PITA
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> OK, I got a diagnosis. top strut lock nuts are WAY loose. Tried air
> wrench....shaft just spins.
How do you know the lock nuts are loose?
> Now, next problem the darn Konis have a flat tab to hold the shaft of the
> strut fixed while torquing down the lock nut...of course, in the e30 upper
> strut bearings, this is recessed, so you cant hold it w/anything. Bilstein
> has a hex nut to hold the shaft and a 6mm 1/4 drive socket will fit right
> through the 19mm 1/2 socket (or spark plug socket) to hold the shaft.
>
> Any ideas how to hold that flat tab still????? I tried to jam a 5mm socket
> over it, but I started to maul the tab...which is bad, because that's also
> used to adjust the damping rate...
That flat tab is exactly that, to adjust the rebound (not the damping by the
way), you can't use it to hold anything still while turning the primary lock
nut. Usually, there is a hex below the tab for adjusting the rebound which
you can hold the shaft while turning the lock nut.
You can probably hold the top of the shaft with a rag and channel locks.
Or, if all else fails, a couple of light baps with an air impact turned down
to their lowest setting works.
Regards,
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 11:43:22 -0500
From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "JohnGrills" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: FW: Front end rattles...88iX Koni strut Lock Nuts...PITA
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> That flat tab is exactly that, to adjust the rebound (not the
> damping by the
> way)..
As pointed out to me already, I was thinking compression when I read
"damping". Yes, rebound is a form of damping. I was confused since so many
think the single adjustables can adjust the compression.
My apologies.
Regards,
Rich
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2004 10:49:26 -0800
From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Rich Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED], JohnGrills <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: 88iX Koni strut Lock Nuts...PITA
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
re: Loosening strut shaft top nut:
Lower the car on the ground before tightinging. The weight of the
car being pressed by the upper spring cup down on the top of the strut
shaft will prevent the strut shaft from turning.
If the top nut is a locknut with a plastic inner sleeve, then
lightly soften the plastic with a propane torch first before tightening.
For disassembly, same in reverse, loosen the nuts before jacking
the car up.
Barry
Rich Dorffer wrote:
>> <>That flat tab is exactly that, to adjust the rebound (not the
>> damping by the
>> way)..
>> As pointed out to me already, I was thinking compression when I read
>> "damping". Yes, rebound is a form of damping. I was confused since so
>> many
>> think the single adjustables can adjust the compression.
>> My apologies.Regards,Rich
>
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 12:11:18 -0500 (EST)
From: Mark Andy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: FW: Front end rattles...88iX Koni strut Lock Nuts...PITA
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Howdy,
On Sun, 7 Nov 2004, Rich Dorffer wrote:
> Or, if all else fails, a couple of light baps with an air impact turned down
> to their lowest setting works.
What I've done in the past is to hold the strut shaft with my hand from
underneath while using an impact gun on the top. What I decided to do the
next time was to use the nifty strap wrench I picked up the other day to
do the same thing.
All that said, my koni's have a hex on the very top of the strut, just
under the vertical rebound adjuster tab, that you can hold with an 11mm
wrench...
Mark
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 14:09:50 -0500
From: "Mitchell Morrison" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: FW: Front end rattles...88iX Koni strut Lock Nuts...PITA
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Don't use air...you can snap off the top of the strut. Use a TW.
One option is to use rubber hose w/ an i.d. close to the o.d. of the strut
shaft w/ loosly installed Vice Grips.
> > OK, I got a diagnosis. top strut lock nuts are WAY loose. Tried air
> > wrench....shaft just spins.
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 15:36:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: FW: Front end rattles...88iX Koni strut Lock Nuts...PITA
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Mitchell Morrison <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Don't use air...you can snap off the top of the strut. Use a TW.
Good call. Everything I've ever read about Konis caution you not to
use air tools tightening the top nut, you'll damage the delicate
adjusting hardware inside the strut insert.
Carlos.
__________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 12:01:15 -0500 (EST)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (bmw list)
Subject: Re: FW: Front end rattles...88iX Koni strut Lock Nuts...PITA
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>From JohnGrills
>
>OK, I got a diagnosis. top strut lock nuts are WAY loose. Tried air
>wrench....shaft just spins.
>
>Now, next problem the darn Konis have a flat tab to hold the shaft of the
>strut fixed while torquing down the lock nut...of course, in the e30 upper
>strut bearings, this is recessed, so you cant hold it w/anything. Bilstein
>has a hex nut to hold the shaft and a 6mm 1/4 drive socket will fit right
>through the 19mm 1/2 socket (or spark plug socket) to hold the shaft.
>
>Any ideas how to hold that flat tab still????? I tried to jam a 5mm socket
>over it, but I started to maul the tab...which is bad, because that's also
>used to adjust the damping rate...
On my Boge inserts I had a similar problem. I cheated. Jack up the offending
wheel. Get it up off the ground. This will expand the spring and give you
some place to stuff the foam bits and plastic sleeves (if you have them).
Push the foam and sleeves down over the top of the strut. You can now grab
the insert shaft with vice-grips way up at the top where it will never go
into the insert (think about how much space the fully collapsed spring would
take up. Grab it in that range.). I just set the pliers for maximum crunch
that I could manage to get closed with two hands and clamped it on. No rag,
no nothing. Tighten away. If the pliers slip, they will tear up the shaft.
If they don't, they only leave a few little dents that don't matter.
Before you go too far with all this, check the insert retaining collar. I
had one start to work loose (too much anti-sieze) and it gave me the same
symptoms. Also tightenable through the spring with a screwdriver and a
mallet.
-- Joe
--
Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations
[EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None...
Yet
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2004 11:32:42 -1000
From: Jay G <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: need radiator advice for E36 M3
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
hey group, sorry for the cross post to 3 digests (e36m3, uuc, uucgarage),
but i didnt wanna miss any info...
my radiator neck for the upper hose snapped today, so i'm in need of a new
radiator...97 M3 with 57k miles, numerous autocrosses and track days... :)
is fluidyne the only company to offer an aluminium radiator for my 97 M3???
i also recall being able to use the factory radiator from the s54 M coupe
(or was it S52?)...any part numbers available??? any leads as to which
vendors to buy from??? any and all replies/opinions appreciated...
my sad story of the events that led up to the failure (it happened at an
autocross) below:
ah, work at my job from 7pm-730am...get off work and jet home in my commuter
car...get home, and helmet and supplies is already in the M3, whose only set
of shoes is r compounds...take car cover off and try to start
it...nope...battery very low...alarm trying to sound, and it suceeds
intermittently...get car charger/starter out and get engine cranked...okay,
off i go...crap, forget my numbers, oh well...it's been raining lately, and
the usual route i take has a HUGE puddle...oh well, go thru it...get to the
autocross, where i was supposed to help with registration because i was
gonna run first, and go home and get some sleep as i return to work for
another 12hr shift tonight...oops, registration already done...say sorry,
and ask a buddy to cover me for work assignments...
grid the car, let engine idle to help charge up the battery...walk the
course (engine is off at this time)...get on line and autocross
starts...now, i was hoping the course would be a liitle dry, but it is still
pretty damp and slick...no problemo...plan is to just drive it easy, get my
runs in and go home for some sleep...start my run and about 2/3 of the way
thru i notice some water is spraying at the windshield...i figure its just
some wet areas on the track...small amounts of steam coming thru, and just
after i reach the finish line, a LOT of steam is coming from the engine
compartment...crap, there goes something expensive! pop the hood and notice
coolant on the stock airbox...and upper radiator hose disconnected...the
neck snapped in a way that i was able to get it back onto the little stump
of the neck and tighten down the clamp...limp back to the pits, pop the hood
and let her cool...
got a garden hose and was able to fill the radiator back up with some
water...and i was able to limp it home- about 5 miles away...
in retospect, i was lucky that the ground was wet, or else the coolant
woulda had an effect when it dumped on my tire...and that i still had the
stock airbox, or else coolant may have gotten sucked into the engine...temp
light never went on during the run...it went on for a split second before i
parked it in the pits...this was the first time i ever saw the temp needle
go past the 12 o'clock mark :P
also i would always check the neck before an autocross/track day...no signs
of any cracking or coolant seepage...i didnt chekc today, but the last
autocross was the last time i ran it, and i checked it then...and it's funny
as people always say that it'll break at the most inopportune moment...
oh well, time to get some sleep and hope for replies...
thanx for reading!
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 15:34:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Jay G <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: need radiator advice for E36 M3
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
--- Jay G <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> is fluidyne the only company to offer an aluminium radiator for my 97
> M3???
> i also recall being able to use the factory radiator from the s54 M
> coupe
> (or was it S52?)...any part numbers available??? any leads as to
> which vendors to buy from???
Who do you normally buy BMW parts from?
As far as I know Zionsville sells an aluminum radiator, M Coupe wise I
think it's the S54 M Coupe rad that you want because it's designed to
have an oil cooler installed in the car as well so if you ever want an
oil cooler in your E36 this is one (good) way to go. And of course
your 3rd option is a stock replacement radiator. I thought those
things lasted forever? ;-P Sorry E30 list joke.
Carlos. (on too many lists)
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 18:34:48 -0500
From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Jay G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "E36M3" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: need radiator advice for E36 M3
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
No question, www.zionsvilleautosport.com. Also available through me.
Cheaper and BETTER than the Fluidyne unit. They FIT PERFECTLY.
Brett Anderson
KMS
> -----Original Message-----
> hey group, sorry for the cross post to 3 digests (e36m3, uuc, uucgarage),
> but i didnt wanna miss any info...
>
> my radiator neck for the upper hose snapped today, so i'm in need of a new
> radiator...97 M3 with 57k miles, numerous autocrosses and track days... :)
>
> is fluidyne the only company to offer an aluminium radiator for my 97 M3???
> i also recall being able to use the factory radiator from the s54 M coupe
> (or was it S52?)...any part numbers available??? any leads as to which
> vendors to buy from??? any and all replies/opinions appreciated...
---
Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
Version: 6.0.784 / Virus Database: 530 - Release Date: 10/27/2004
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2004 18:06:51 -0500
From: marty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: HID Lights
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I happened across a pretty detailed discussion of automotive lighting
issues including beam patterns, glare and much more. It can be found at
http://dmses.dot.gov/docimages/pdf82/176157_web.pdf for anyone who is
interested. The top portion consists of responses to an NHTSA request
for public comment on headlamp glare and there are some interesting
addendums.
Of particular interest, esp. regarding the original question and
subsequent comments, is the section called 'Headlamp Modification
Factors' which begins on p. 23 of the addendum entitled 'Where Does the
Glare Come From? A Comprehensive Discussion of Seeing and Glare in the
Nighttime Roadway Environment'. It discusses, among other topics, the
impacts of overwattage and 'blue' bulbs and aftermarket HID lamps.
Needless to say, my previous comments were overly general and only
touched the surface.
marty
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 17:20:23 -0800 (PST)
From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: <E36> shifter upgrade what else?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Gruppe,
Planning on upgrading the shifter in the E36 325is soon but I was
wondering what else to do while in there? I'm thinking tranny mounts
(have UUC enforcer ones to install), the car already has Red Line fluid
but I may as well refresh it, what else? I don't believe the tranny is
leaking so I wasn't thinking seals. I'm planning on ordering parts Mon
or Tues. so I'd like to order everything at once.
Carlos
93 325is
88 325is
__________________________________________________
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------------------------------
Date: Sun, 07 Nov 2004 22:22:54 -0500
From: Rob Levinson * UUC Motorwerks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: <E36> shifter upgrade what else?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
While you're in the area, check the flex disk for cracks. Refreshing
the fluid, as you noted, is always a good idea.
The selector joint is a wear item and the replacement parts are only
about $20... but it really is a PITA job.
Killing a couple of birds with one stone, we have a permanent fix for
the selector joint problem that is just as effective with your original
joint in place. This works with any shifter (OE or aftermarket) that
you might install:
http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/dssr
- Rob
On Nov 7, 2004, at 8:20 PM, Carlos Lopez wrote:
> Gruppe,
>
> Planning on upgrading the shifter in the E36 325is soon but I was
> wondering what else to do while in there? I'm thinking tranny mounts
> (have UUC enforcer ones to install), the car already has Red Line fluid
> but I may as well refresh it, what else? I don't believe the tranny is
> leaking so I wasn't thinking seals. I'm planning on ordering parts Mon
> or Tues. so I'd like to order everything at once.
>
> Carlos
> 93 325is
> 88 325is
------------------------------
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2004 19:34:14 -0600
From: "Kris Welhart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Bmwuucdigest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "E36M3" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Head Gasket Failure
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Thanks for all of the information with regards to the head gasket failure. I
will contact VAC about their head gasket and see what they have to say.
During the first failure I replaced EVERYTHING in the coolant system to try
and diagnose. No improvement from any of it. It passed a "liquid" coolant
sniffer test, but a few months later failed a digital sniffer (different
mechanic) test. I beleive it is oil pressure due to the point of failure and
I feel that if it was cylinder pressure it would blow much more quickly
(dramatically?). Not sure why there is not more oil in the coolant.
Does anyone have any ideas on why this is happening? Has anyone else had a
failed gasket and seen the point of failure? Where was it?
The other open question is the noisy lifters. Any reason to worry about them
failing? Should they definitely be replaced? Performance seems to be OK.
Thanks again for the help.
Kris
95 M3
------------------------------
End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages)
**********
