The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 416 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: 540i "TRANS PROGRAM" Re: 540i "TRANS PROGRAM" Fw: [LSCchat] FYI HID Lights Re: HID Lights Re: HID Lights Re: HID Lights Re: HID Lights Re: HID Lights Re: Wheel Bearing Removal Re: Wheel Bearing Removal Re: [E36] intermittent wiper control trouble Re: Very Stiff/Notchy Shifting - E46 Re: <E30> engine running problem ABS sensors E36
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 11:45:55 -0500 From: "Pharr, Jeff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: 540i "TRANS PROGRAM" Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> John, Check your battery first. I had this problem in my E34 and it turned out to be the battery. I had not been having slow cranking or any other common symptom of a dying battery, nor was it during cold weather. The symptom I had was the same as you described, occasional Trans Program error message that would go away when the car was restarted. Turns out the battery was at the end of its life and when I replaced it the problem went away. Since then I have heard two different horror stories of dealers first replacing the trans control module, then when that doesn't solve the problem they overhaul the transmission, and when that doesn't fix the problem, only THEN do they take a look at the battery. HTH... --Jeff > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:bmwuucdigest- > [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Barfuss > Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 9:39 AM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [UUC] 540i "TRANS PROGRAM" > > On the way to work today, I got the uh oh "TRANS PROGRAM" message on > the instrument panel of my 540i, and it went into limp mode, 3rd > gear. Feels really weird to start from a stop in 3rd. Glad the engine > has some torque. Stopped to get gas, and when I started the car > again, everything was normal. For now. Manual says module has failed > and have dealer replace. > > Anyone have experience with this? What can I look forward to? No > special chip in the auto trans module -- I went back to the first of > three chips issued for the 540iA. BMW had reprogrammed the car to > shift like a Buick after people complained about "abrupt" shifts. The > second chip they put in made the car mushy, shifting low in the power > band, made me hate the car. The original chip is more aggressive, and > designed for the characteristics of this ZF box. > > Thoughts, anyone? TIA. > > JB > 95 540iA - Alusil at 52k, valve body rebuild, sharked, 750i 3.15 LSD > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > ________________________________________________________________________ __ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 14:52:07 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: 540i "TRANS PROGRAM" Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> John, On E32's the symptoms you describe are often the result of a battery getting weak. For some reason on the E32's the control module (solenoids?) are sensitive to battery voltage. If it drops below a certain level the "trans program" light comes on. Might be worth checking out. -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 12:02:19 -0500 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Fw: [LSCchat] FYI Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Government orders recall of high-intensity headlights > WASHINGTON (AP) - Federal regulators ordered a Texas company Tuesday to > stop selling kits that let vehicle owners convert their headlights to > high-intensity beams. > > The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration said the > high-intensity headlights in kits made by Astex USA can cause excessive > glare and are hazardous to other drivers. It ordered the company to > stop selling the kits and recall 150 kits that already have been sold. > > High-intensity lights have a blue glow and wider beams than traditional > halogen lights. They are standard equipment on some vehicles, but those > are dim enough to meet federal standards. > > A salesman at the Dayton, Texas, company said no one was available to > comment Tuesday. > > NHTSA said it has ordered recalls or stopped sales at 24 companies that > supply high-intensity conversion kits to vehicle owners. > Copyright 2004 The Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material > may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed. > > Find this article at: > http://www.usatoday.com/money/autos/2004-10-19-headlight-recall_x.htm > > > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.784 / Virus Database: 530 - Release Date: 10/27/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 09:21:16 -0800 From: Tom Kosmalski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: HID Lights Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Regarding Brett's post, I hate to see the gov't "here and ready to help", but IMO all the HID lights should disappear. They benefit the driver (one person) at the expense of everyone else on the road (lots of people). Some brands seems worse than others, but only marginally. Just my $0.02! Tom K. Hood River, OR ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 09:31:39 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: HID Lights Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> That's what people said about halogen lamps 30 years ago. I'm sure they said the same thing about electric headlights versus lanterns too. HID used to "bother" when there were few HID cars since the few that were out there would be so much brighter than the surrounding cars that I would naturally look over at them. Now I barely even notice them anymore. I think the real problem with HIDs are the aftermarket ones, most that come with cars have a very clean cut off pattern. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Tom Kosmalski Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 9:21 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] HID Lights Regarding Brett's post, I hate to see the gov't "here and ready to help", but IMO all the HID lights should disappear. They benefit the driver (one person) at the expense of everyone else on the road (lots of people). Some brands seems worse than others, but only marginally. Just my $0.02! Tom K. Hood River, OR Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 12:43:07 -0800 From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: HID Lights Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Tue, Nov 02, 2004 at 09:31:39AM -0800, Marco Romani wrote: > That's what people said about halogen lamps 30 years ago. I'm sure > they said the same thing about electric headlights versus lanterns > too. HID used to "bother" when there were few HID cars since the few > that were out there would be so much brighter than the surrounding > cars that I would naturally look over at them. Now I barely even > notice them anymore. What's worst IMHO is when the HID-equipped car hits a bump, crosses an intersection on a crowned road, crests a hill, etc etc and the oncoming driver gets a brief face full of full-intensity beam. That never happened with bad-ol' halogens. But you know what I'm thankful for? Headlight assemblies that don't feature aiming screws right next to the removal screws. (think old round & squares) There are far fewer cars running around nowadays with headlights pointed at the sky or the road or my eyes because joe sixpack twiddled the wrong screw. -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro ------------------------------ Date: 2 Nov 2004 18:51:37 -0000 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: HID Lights Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> "I think the real problem with HIDs are the aftermarket ones, most that come with cars have a very clean cut off pattern" How much of the "real" problem is with lights that aren't Real HID? Bulbs tinted blue or purple or any other color should be banned. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 11:07:38 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: HID Lights Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> agreed. M -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 10:52 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] HID Lights "I think the real problem with HIDs are the aftermarket ones, most that come with cars have a very clean cut off pattern" How much of the "real" problem is with lights that aren't Real HID? Bulbs tinted blue or purple or any other color should be banned. Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Nov 2004 19:56:50 -0500 From: marty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: HID Lights Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >"I think the real problem with HIDs are the aftermarket ones, most that come with >cars have a very clean cut off pattern" > > Aftermarket HID lamps installed in reflectors designed for halogen bulbs are a problem. Halogen reflectors are not designed to focus the light produced by the arc in HID lamps. They are designed to focus light from a halogen bulb filament which has very different characteristics (location, shape, bright/dark areas). It's amazing, to me, how much engineering can go into lighting. I never really thought about all the factors involved before doing some research into it. Lots of mis-focused light is bad for everyone (on either end of the headlights). The blindees (all of us) are treated, against our will, to a lot of candlepower glaring in unintended places . The blinder (driver) gets a false sense of security since the area immediately in front of the car is lit up like a christmas tree while they are treated to mucho backdazzle (reducing night vision and especially bad when wet) and the areas that should be lit (peripheral areas and the road they will be at in one to a few seconds) may not be. >How much of the "real" problem is with lights that aren't Real HID? Bulbs tinted >blue or purple or any other color should be banned. > The tinted bulbs probably aren't much of a problem for potential blindees since the tinted coating reduces light output compared to comparable white bulbs. Anyone using those bulbs for the dubious HID look should be banished to public transportation [Part of my plan to increase public transportation, reduce traffic congestion and gas consumption, while preserving the roads for responsible drivers and their vehicles] :-) I'm no lighting expert but I did stay at a Comfort Inn recently. Comments are gleaned from some recent research on replacing my headlights and I did speak to someone who probably does qualify as an expert, FWIW. marty ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 10:24:33 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Wheel Bearing Removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Days? Months! But I was working on it in my "spare time". Ha ha ha ha ha - sorry. That was my Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement from Hell Project. I have nothing to contribute here, unless the E38 rear wheel bearing is similar to the one in an E30, in which case, I recommend finding a shop to do it. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 20:53:18 -0800 >From: "Kevin Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: "BMW BMW BMW BMW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Wheel Bearing Removal >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Dennis Liu wrote: > >> Howdy, all.� The left rear wheel bearing on my 1995 740iL (E38), >> with 133k miles, is starting to go.� Noise is definitely getting louder. >> A couple of questions: >> 1.� Is this a Do-it-yourself procedure > >Back in college I worked full time for a few days trying to remove a single >wheel bearing from an E21 and I think that Scott on the list recently had >fun over a couple days with a wheel bearing a while back.� I will never ever >try and replace a rear wheel bearing again since I don't have enough >specialized pulling/removal tools. <snip> >Kevin Kelly >BMW CCA 50039 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 13:55:50 -0500 From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "'Kevin Kelly'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Wheel Bearing Removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks to all for the responses. Given my general mechanical ineptitude and lack of special tools for this job (and despite Bruno's encouragement - Bruno, you have no idea just how much I can screw up something like this), the car will be going to a professional for the replacement. Any ideas as to how much the repair will cost? Thanks! Vty, --Dennis -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bruno Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 8:53 AM To: Kevin Kelly; BMW BMW BMW BMW Subject: Re: [UUC] Wheel Bearing Removal Should be as easy as doing it on the E34 5 series. I have done many of them and never had a problem removing the bearing. Check out http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/maintenance/suspension/wheelbearing.htm This will give you a good idea of the work to do. Nothing too difficult, probably 1 to 1.5 hour per side or so. Bruno Webmaster of the BMW E34 Website: www.bmwe34.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW BMW BMW BMW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 11:53 PM Subject: [UUC] Wheel Bearing Removal > Dennis Liu wrote: > > > Howdy, all. The left rear wheel bearing on my 1995 740iL (E38), > > with 133k miles, is starting to go. Noise is definitely getting > > louder. A couple of questions: 1. Is this a Do-it-yourself > > procedure > > Back in college I worked full time for a few days trying to remove a single > wheel bearing from an E21 and I think that Scott on the list recently > had fun over a couple days with a wheel bearing a while back. I will > never ever > try and replace a rear wheel bearing again since I don't have enough > specialized pulling/removal tools. > > I was on a first name basis with the guy at the tool rental place > before I was able to remove my E21 outer bearing race using a HUGE > rented three pronged slide hammer that was able to hook on the race > with the notches I cut in to the swing arm using the new Dremil tool I > bought. > > Kevin Kelly > BMW CCA 50039 > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > ______________________________________________________________________ > ____ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . > http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Nov 2004 13:01:15 -0600 From: "Scott Staewen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [E36] intermittent wiper control trouble Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Does the E36 have rain sensing wipers? This may be of little help, but I can tell you my experience with errant wipers on my E39. Still just under warranty, the dealer replaced the IKE (wiper module), the general module, and the instrument cluster -- all to no avail. This last week, however, I think the problem revealed itself. *Lightly* touching the wiper switch (stalk) will start and stop the wipers when in rain sensing mode. It seems that the sensitivity switch is faulty, intermittently making contact and causing some odd behaviors.The dealer will be replacing the switch soon, and I am confident that at last my wipers will cured. Just a data point for you. It may be that you have a bad module, but don't forget about the switch. cheers, rss > >Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 05:02:39 -0800 (PST) >From: Sean Cordone <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: [E36] intermittent wiper control trouble >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >All- >Last night my wipers on my M3 started working >intermittently, and not in the intended way. After >starting the car, they'll work for a few minutes, then >freeze in some arbitrary position on the windshield. >Only shutting down the car and restrating will get >them going again. > >This clearly seems to be a control module problem... >Anybody BTDT? Thanks, --SC > _________________________________________________________________ Don�t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Nov 2004 12:15:54 -0800 From: "J. Ochi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Very Stiff/Notchy Shifting - E46 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 06:32 AM 11/2/2004, John Riganati wrote: >Hello All - >My 5spd 2000 E46 has become very difficult to shift into gear. This could very well be the clutch, not the tranny. Here's a diagnostic procedure: 1. Car idling, parking brake on, no one in front of car. 2. Clutch pedal all the way down, try to move the shifter into first gear 3. If it's hard to get the shifter into first, press the stick to the resistance point (about halfway between neutral and first) and hold it there 4. Turn off the engine. If the shifter slides into first with the engine off, then it's probably something in the clutch system. Bleed the clutch, check the master/slave for leakage, etc. If you're using an aftermarket clutch stop, try removing it to see if the problem goes away. Make sure the carpet/floor mat isn't bunching up under the clutch pedal. If the shifter doesn't slide into first, then check the linkage for binding, stuff in the way, etc. If that's not it, it may be the tranny itself... Hope this helps, Jim Ochi ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 08:11:32 -0500 From: "Pharr, Jeff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "JKerouac" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E30> engine running problem Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Barry, I have put the temp sensor down on the likelihood list since the problem happens with both a warm and a cold motor. But I think I have a spare and should probably give it a try since it's such an easy swap. What is a CE? O2 sensor is of unknown age but did just pass VA emissions with flying colors. The backup AFM was in good working order when I removed it a year or so ago, and swapping it in did not alter the symptoms. Grounding was an interesting question... I ran a jumper cable from the neg terminal of the battery directly to the block and did not change the symptom. I was unable to find any injection specific harness ground to check but I was short on time. I will give this another look the next time I can look at the car. Other stuff I have done since I posted the original message: I have swapped in another crank sensor... no change. I have checked the alternator output and found it to be a steady 13.61 V with all aux equipment off. This is on the low end but is within Bentley spec. As it stands now, there is a dramatic worsening of the problem when you rev past 3.5K RPM's --Jeff > -----Original Message----- > From: JKerouac [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2004 10:55 AM > To: Pharr, Jeff > Cc: > Subject: Re: [UUC] <E30> engine running problem > > Jeff, > The coolant temperature sensor is inexpensive and easy to replace, > so try r&r'ing that first. > Are you getting a CE? How fresh is the O2 sensor? > Are the ground straps from the injection harness snug? try filing the > contact points and metal eyelets the fastening bolts go through. > Also, is your backup AFM know good? and can you test the existing one in > another car? > Good Luck, > > Barry > > Pharr, Jeff wrote: > > >I've been chasing an E30 engine issue for a while now and i'm looking > >for a clue or two. Car is an '89 325iX > >Engine has had a fresh rebuild and was running very strong, has maybe 4K > >miles on it. The problem started as a dead spot around 4K RPMs that was > >very intermittent and typically only when the engine was cold. > >The symptoms have gotten worse and now it is barely running. It is easy > >to start and will idle reasonable well (slight pulsing) but when you rev > >the motor there is a periodic miss at all RPM ranges. It drops out very > >briefly about every half second or so at all RPM ranges until the engine > >is warm and then the drop out occur about every second. > >I have swapped in a backup AFM with no change. I have replaced plug > >wires, cap and rotor. I just pulled the plugs and #6 gap was about half > >what it should have been. I regapped the plug and it did not seem to > >have much effect.The only other thing i can think to mention is that the > car JUST passed > >NoVA emissions with flying colors, but there was a problem completing > >the idle test. The motor was idling very smoothly (no pulsing at all) > >but the idle test kept failing because it looked like the test equipment > >picking up a false spark plug signals. The tester repeated the test a > >bunch of times and kept moving the pick up from plug to plug and it > >finally passed. Very odd... > >Any thoughts? > >ECU... every ECU failure i've seen has left the car in a non-start mode > >Temp sensor... problem is there both warm and cold, but symptoms are > >slightly different > >Leaky injector o-ring... doesnt quite seem to fit the symptoms > >Crank sensor... Seems like the best guess at this point but i've never > >had one of these fail. > >Intake air leak... engine speed does not seem to change the symptoms and > >the car just did pass emissions really well.--Jeff > > > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2004 06:28:56 -0800 (PST) From: P Kroon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMWUUCDIGEST \(E-mail\)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: ABS sensors E36 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hello, My ABS light is randomly coming on in my 96 328i. I understand that this is typically caused by one or more bad front abs sensors. While replacing the front control arms, I noticed that the wire on one side looked like it was slightly pulled out from the connector, so I'm guessing this is the problem. I'd like to replace both, however. Are the front abs sensors the same for a 96 328i (4 door) as a 98 M3 2 door? I found a good deal on a used pair of front abs sensors from a 98 M3. Thanks, Paul __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? 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