The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 415 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: E39 540 wagon question Re: E39 540 wagon question Wheel Bearing Removal Re: Wheel Bearing Removal Re: Wheel Bearing Removal Re: Wheel Bearing Removal Navigation System features <E46> Re: Navigation System features <E46> Re: Navigation System features <E46> Re: Metal Valve stems [E36] intermittent wiper control trouble Very Stiff/Notchy Shifting - E46 Re: Very Stiff/Notchy Shifting - E46 540i "TRANS PROGRAM" <E36> clutch master cylinder change
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 01 Nov 2004 22:34:13 -0500 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: E39 540 wagon question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Self leveling on the rear has gone to nothing. Car has 100, 090 miles on it. Warranty is gone for a week. TIS says replace both rear rubber springs when this happens and you drive the car at all. TIS has a troubleshooting chart. Chart says this situation can be caused by a "failsafe" on the air unit. ETK doesn't show a failasafe, TIS has no procedures regarding this unit. Car started handling badly on beltway, when stopped, car was down as low as it can physically go. Car is evenly low on both sides. There is a hissing sound from driver's rear wheelwell when pump is running for its first two minute try to level the car. This sound was only observed after the car had been driven flat and that side rear rubber spring is chafed. These parts are very expensive, can anyone help on the diagnosis? TIA, Ed ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 07:47:13 -0500 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: E39 540 wagon question Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Failsafe is an electronic term. It is not related to any particular part. Stop driving the car. Find the source of the hiss. Repair the leak. See what happens. You might be ok, you might not, but the leak has to be fixed no matter what. Unlike E34 Touring, the suspension on your car is not interchangeable with a sedan, making it hard to get rid of the air system. Also, call your dealer. If you're out by 90 miles, they should cover you. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ed MacVaugh > Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 10:34 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: [UUC] E39 540 wagon question > > > Self leveling on the rear has gone to nothing. Car has 100, 090 miles on > it. Warranty is gone for a week. > > TIS says replace both rear rubber springs when this happens and you > drive the car at all. TIS has a troubleshooting chart. Chart says this > situation can be caused by a "failsafe" on the air unit. ETK doesn't > show a failasafe, TIS has no procedures regarding this unit. > > Car started handling badly on beltway, when stopped, car was down as low > as it can physically go. Car is evenly low on both sides. > > There is a hissing sound from driver's rear wheelwell when pump is > running for its first two minute try to level the car. This sound was > only observed after the car had been driven flat and that side rear > rubber spring is chafed. > > These parts are very expensive, can anyone help on the diagnosis? > > TIA, > > Ed > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > --- > Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. > Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). > Version: 6.0.784 / Virus Database: 530 - Release Date: 10/27/2004 > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.784 / Virus Database: 530 - Release Date: 10/27/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 20:53:18 -0800 From: "Kevin Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW BMW BMW BMW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Wheel Bearing Removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Dennis Liu wrote: > Howdy, all. The left rear wheel bearing on my 1995 740iL (E38), > with 133k miles, is starting to go. Noise is definitely getting louder. > A couple of questions: > 1. Is this a Do-it-yourself procedure Back in college I worked full time for a few days trying to remove a single wheel bearing from an E21 and I think that Scott on the list recently had fun over a couple days with a wheel bearing a while back. I will never ever try and replace a rear wheel bearing again since I don't have enough specialized pulling/removal tools. I was on a first name basis with the guy at the tool rental place before I was able to remove my E21 outer bearing race using a HUGE rented three pronged slide hammer that was able to hook on the race with the notches I cut in to the swing arm using the new Dremil tool I bought. Kevin Kelly BMW CCA 50039 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 04:56:45 -0800 (PST) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Kevin Kelly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, BMW BMW BMW BMW <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Wheel Bearing Removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- Kevin Kelly <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > and I think that Scott on the list recently > had fun over a couple days with a wheel bearing a while back. :-) More like a couple of months. Karl (on this list) and Mike O. (club racer) changed one at Mid-Ohio on Saturday in an E30 325 in about 2 hours w/o any special tools. Mike ran to a parts store and got some washers and a long threaded rod to get the new bearing in and that was it. This is not the usual story though, most people have a lot of problems with theirs and many times ruin the first bearing and end up buying a 2nd. They co-drove the E30 and won their class on Sunday coming from the back since the car didn't race in the Sat. sprint race, wrenching *and* driving talent, who knew? ;-) Carlos. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Check out the new Yahoo! Front Page. www.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 09:59:06 -0500 From: CsWs <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Wheel Bearing Removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks Los :) Mike is willing to rent out the tool for $75, and I am willing to come do wheel bearings for $75 an hr plus travel expenses <VBG> Karl #747 KP On Tue, 2 Nov 2004 04:56:45 -0800 (PST), Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > :-) > > More like a couple of months. > > Karl (on this list) and Mike O. (club racer) changed one at Mid-Ohio on > Saturday in an E30 325 in about 2 hours w/o any special tools. Mike > ran to a parts store and got some washers and a long threaded rod to > get the new bearing in and that was it. This is not the usual story > though, most people have a lot of problems with theirs and many times > ruin the first bearing and end up buying a 2nd. They co-drove the E30 > and won their class on Sunday coming from the back since the car didn't > race in the Sat. sprint race, wrenching *and* driving talent, who knew? > ;-) > > Carlos. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 08:53:16 -0500 From: "Bruno" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Kevin Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "BMW BMW BMW BMW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Wheel Bearing Removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Should be as easy as doing it on the E34 5 series. I have done many of them and never had a problem removing the bearing. Check out http://www.bmwe34.net/e34main/maintenance/suspension/wheelbearing.htm This will give you a good idea of the work to do. Nothing too difficult, probably 1 to 1.5 hour per side or so. Bruno Webmaster of the BMW E34 Website: www.bmwe34.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kevin Kelly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW BMW BMW BMW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 11:53 PM Subject: [UUC] Wheel Bearing Removal > Dennis Liu wrote: > > > Howdy, all. The left rear wheel bearing on my 1995 740iL (E38), > > with 133k miles, is starting to go. Noise is definitely getting louder. > > A couple of questions: > > 1. Is this a Do-it-yourself procedure > > Back in college I worked full time for a few days trying to remove a single > wheel bearing from an E21 and I think that Scott on the list recently had > fun over a couple days with a wheel bearing a while back. I will never ever > try and replace a rear wheel bearing again since I don't have enough > specialized pulling/removal tools. > > I was on a first name basis with the guy at the tool rental place before I > was able to remove my E21 outer bearing race using a HUGE rented three > pronged slide hammer that was able to hook on the race with the notches I > cut in to the swing arm using the new Dremil tool I bought. > > Kevin Kelly > BMW CCA 50039 > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2004 22:07:50 -0800 From: "Marvin Martin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMWdigest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "BMW UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Navigation System features <E46> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Someone told me that the factory-installed navigation system has a built-in TV tuner, but that the feature is disabled for the U.S. market. He also said that it could be activated by software. Is this true, and, if so, how do you do it? I know that it is illegal to drive with a TV visible to the driver, but it would be handy at rest stops. I have a 2003 330i with the DVD based nav system. Marvin ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 07:52:42 -0500 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Navigation System features <E46> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The TV tuner is not built in. It's a separate control unit which is not installed in your car. Your car is also not wired for it. Neither of these issues are a real problem. We install them in-house, but you can buy a kit from www.nav-tv.com. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > Someone told me that the factory-installed navigation system has a built-in > TV tuner, but that the feature is disabled for the U.S. market. He also > said that it could be activated by software. Is this true, and, if so, how > do you do it? I know that it is illegal to drive with a TV visible to the > driver, but it would be handy at rest stops. I have a 2003 330i with the > DVD based nav system. > > Marvin --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.784 / Virus Database: 530 - Release Date: 10/27/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 02 Nov 2004 06:54:31 -0600 From: "Thomas G. Clark" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Navigation System features <E46> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> While in Germany this summer I rode around with a friend in his 2004 530d. While the vehicle was stopped, it did indeed have a tv tuner in the nav display. It would switch off whenever the car moved. I don't think that you can get this turned on in the US. It would have to be done by the dealer with the diagnostic computer and I've heard that they're too worried about lawsuits here to allow it to happen. Just my opinion, could be wrong. Tom At 12:07 AM 11/2/2004, you wrote: >Someone told me that the factory-installed navigation system has a built-in >TV tuner, but that the feature is disabled for the U.S. market. He also >said that it could be activated by software. Is this true, and, if so, how >do you do it? I know that it is illegal to drive with a TV visible to the >driver, but it would be handy at rest stops. I have a 2003 330i with the >DVD based nav system. > >Marvin > > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: 1 Nov 2004 23:49:29 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Metal Valve stems Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I don't know if they are o-ring type, but BMW sells metal valve stems, part number 36-12-1-119-332, at about $5 each. They work on some BMW wheels but not on others. Curt Ingraham Oakland, CA > Anyone know of a good source for the o-ring type metal tire valve's? > > -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 05:02:39 -0800 (PST) From: Sean Cordone <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [E36] intermittent wiper control trouble Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> All- Last night my wipers on my M3 started working intermittently, and not in the intended way. After starting the car, they'll work for a few minutes, then freeze in some arbitrary position on the windshield. Only shutting down the car and restrating will get them going again. This clearly seems to be a control module problem... Anybody BTDT? Thanks, --SC __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Check out the new Yahoo! Front Page. www.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 09:32:40 -0500 From: "John Riganati" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Very Stiff/Notchy Shifting - E46 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hello All - My 5spd 2000 E46 has become very difficult to shift into gear. It takes an unusual amount of force to get it into 1st gear (at a stop light, for example), and shifting through the remaining gears is extremely notchy. Getting into first is sometimes easier if I first shift into 5th or reverse, but it's still far from a smooth engagement. The car has just under 60,000 miles on it. This issue started last winter (about 50,000 miles), so I changed the trans fluid and put in Mobile1. That helped a little bit, but it's gotten much worse since then. The fluid had been previously changed at 30,0000 miles. Any thoughts? I can't believe this is normal degradation, especially after just 60,000 miles. Thanks - John Riganati ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 11:23:26 -0500 From: "Michael Gilbert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Very Stiff/Notchy Shifting - E46 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi John, I'm not a mechanic, but I believe your clutch may need to be replaced or adjusted. It's probably not disengaging, resulting in a difficult meshing of the gears and greater force required to force it into gear. Have it looked at pronto before you shag your synchros. Just my $0.02. -Mike -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Riganati Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2004 9:33 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [UUC] Very Stiff/Notchy Shifting - E46 Hello All - My 5spd 2000 E46 has become very difficult to shift into gear. It takes an unusual amount of force to get it into 1st gear (at a stop light, for example), and shifting through the remaining gears is extremely notchy. Getting into first is sometimes easier if I first shift into 5th or reverse, but it's still far from a smooth engagement. The car has just under 60,000 miles on it. This issue started last winter (about 50,000 miles), so I changed the trans fluid and put in Mobile1. That helped a little bit, but it's gotten much worse since then. The fluid had been previously changed at 30,0000 miles. Any thoughts? I can't believe this is normal degradation, especially after just 60,000 miles. Thanks - John Riganati Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 09:39:06 -0500 From: John Barfuss <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: 540i "TRANS PROGRAM" Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On the way to work today, I got the uh oh "TRANS PROGRAM" message on the instrument panel of my 540i, and it went into limp mode, 3rd gear. Feels really weird to start from a stop in 3rd. Glad the engine has some torque. Stopped to get gas, and when I started the car again, everything was normal. For now. Manual says module has failed and have dealer replace. Anyone have experience with this? What can I look forward to? No special chip in the auto trans module -- I went back to the first of three chips issued for the 540iA. BMW had reprogrammed the car to shift like a Buick after people complained about "abrupt" shifts. The second chip they put in made the car mushy, shifting low in the power band, made me hate the car. The original chip is more aggressive, and designed for the characteristics of this ZF box. Thoughts, anyone? TIA. JB 95 540iA - Alusil at 52k, valve body rebuild, sharked, 750i 3.15 LSD ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2004 07:20:56 -0800 (PST) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <E36> clutch master cylinder change Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The victim is a 1994 325is and I'm trying to change the clutch MC but having a bear of a time getting to the fitting on the output end of the MC. Bentley says to work in the engine compartment and disconnect the line. Easier said than done as it's somewhat a contortionist's act to even get in the same zip code as the fitting, let alone get a tool on it and unthread it. The only thing I could think to do was remove the brake booster. Seems like that'll give me an angle down to the fitting with maybe just the brake plumbing in the way. Before I start removing and breaking unrelated parts, does anyone have guidance? Or am I on the right track and that fitting is just a PITA? Thanks, tom ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
