The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 465 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: [E36] Horrible cold-start consumption Re: Horrible cold-start consumption Please help determine noise coming from rear Re: [bmwuucdigest] 325 head - More correct tool for BMW 'crimps'? Re: correct tool for BMW 'crimps'? Re: correct tool for BMW 'crimps'? Re: E30 Lock Control Modules <E36> M3 mirrors Re: <E36> M3 mirrors Re: <E36> M3 mirrors Re: <E36> M3 mirrors Mirrors Re: <E36> M3 mirrors
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 19:35:09 -0500 From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [E36] Horrible cold-start consumption Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> JKerouac wrote: > The limits of the adaptive system for the stock MAF can be exceeded > by, for instance, a larger HFM tube with higher fuel pressure. Unless you're exceeding the maximum flow of the injectors at stock fuel pressure there's no reason to increase the pressure. That creates a problem for the ECU because it no longer has accurate information with which to calculate the correct pulsewidth. If you've kept the stock MAF it should be measuring the actual airflow regardless of what airflow improvements you've made, again, unless you've maxed out the measurement range of the MAF. That's the whole point of a MAF, it measures the actual mass airflow. Unless you alter the MAF housing the airflow to voltage curve should remain the same. If you've changed the configuration of the tubing on the filter side of the MAF (introduced a turn, etc.) you may have changed the gradient of airflow through the MAF which would change the airflow to voltage relationship. Clocking the MAF (if possible) might help reduce that effect. > The system adapts to the greater airflow and higher fuel pressure > to be rich enough at wot, however the CE comes on due to not being able > to run _lean enough on part throttle cruising. No surprise, since you've increased the fuel pressure and the injector is flowing more fuel at a given pw than it thinks it is. You may also be hitting a minimum pulsewidth value that magnifies the overly rich condition at low pw. > A side effect of installing the larger HFM tube was that the ICV > went hyperactive, shooting the idle way too high immediately on cold > start. Problem was the system was now mis-reading as way too lean and > shooting extra gas to try to compensate, while it was actually the > metering at low airflow that was incorrect for the actual airflow > through the tube. I think you may have this backwards. A rich condition causes a high idle as the ICV adds air to compensate. Without knowing the specifics of the Bosch ECU I'm 99.9% sure that on cold start the system isn't reading anything with regard to rich/lean. Cold start has to be open loop as the commanded air-fuel ratio is well outside the useful range of the O2 sensor. > To deal with hyperactive ICV sutuations where the problem is the > metering (due to larger air tubes or bored out throttles), not the ICV, > here's stupid little trick that some of you will laugh at, but is > effective in some cases nevertheless: > Put a washer with a small inner hole (1/4"?) into the inlet hose just > before the Idle Control Valve. That will restrict the air flow to the > ICV, so that the adaptive system will not pump as much fuel. You're limiting the max airflow through the ICV which in turn limits how much it can raise the RPM. It has nothing to do with adaptive or fuel delivery, I suspect you're still running dead rich, the ICV just can't flow enough air to raise the idle accordingly. > After a > few starts and stalls the adaptive system will lean itself again at idle > and the system will now use less fuel while the engine is cold. Is lower fuel consumption something you've measured , or is that an assumption? > ymmv, > Barry Brian (anticipating a lively discussion) '94 325ic ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 19:52:58 -0500 From: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Horrible cold-start consumption Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Neil Maller wrote: >on 12/18/04 5:20 PM, JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > >>To deal with hyperactive ICV sutuations where the problem is the >>metering (due to larger air tubes or bored out throttles), not the ICV, >>here's stupid little trick that some of you will laugh at, but is >>effective in some cases nevertheless: >>Put a washer with a small inner hole (1/4"?) into the inlet hose just >>before the Idle Control Valve. That will restrict the air flow to the >>ICV, so that the adaptive system will not pump as much fuel. After a >>few starts and stalls the adaptive system will lean itself again at idle >>and the system will now use less fuel while the engine is cold. >>ymmv, >>Barry >> >> > >Of course this may also be an illustration of how dicking around with >isolated components of an integrated system isn't necessarily a good idea. > >While it may lack the DIY problem-solving satisfaction that Barry enjoys, I >suspect that most people would be much better served by using the >appropriate software from Conforti, Dinan or whoever that would fully and >properly adjust for the larger HFM and/or throttle body. > I guess that all depends on how much one enjoys working on cars and the time and budget one has to work with. Many prefer to solve a problem (automotive or otherwise) by opening their wallet rather than their toolbox. I think you're correct that the typical BMW owner tends to fall into the first category which is reflected in the price of parts and service for BMWs vs. some other marques. Cars ain't rocket science, not even BMWs. Brian '94 325ic '94 Mustang Cobra (both of which I enjoy tinkering with) ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 06:44:05 -0800 (PST) From: P Kroon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Brian Daley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [email protected] Subject: Please help determine noise coming from rear Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hello all, 1996 BMW 328i. Under slight load, there is a whistling sound coming from the rear (I think the drivers side). Under no load and heavy load, it goes away. Never noticed the sound before. My first thought was that the sound is coming from the muffler (maybe the exhaust by-pass valve?). Any thoughts? It doesn't go away if I turn left or right. -Paul __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - Easier than ever with enhanced search. Learn more. http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 19:15:27 -0600 From: "Dave Swingle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] 325 head - More Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Here's a great opportunity for someone - I have another 325 head that's cracked, but includes the cams, valves, shafts, etc. $100 (including the intake if you want it). You could buy Jenny's and put together one good head. Details and pictures at http://www.dmcnews.com/BMW/e30parts.html along with some other crap leftover from an engine swap - intake, exhaust, MAF, injectors etc all at clean-out-the-garage prices. Not far from Jenny's actually, in northern IL. Will ship. Will listen to offers by people of limited means. Dave S ----------------------------- Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 10:16:40 -0600 From: Jenny Morgan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[uucdigest] list" <[email protected]> Subject: 325 head Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> FOR SALE M20 325 "I" head. Contains valves no cam, rockers or shafts. Was pulled as exchange (not a broken belt). $500.00 plus shipping Contact me off list [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jenny Morgan ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 18:34:09 -0800 From: Dave Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: correct tool for BMW 'crimps'? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> What is the correct tool to 'crimp' the clamps that BMW uses? You know, like the ones on the steering rack boots and such. I have used various types of pliers with some success but nothing that looks as good as the OEM crimped ones. Dave ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 08:01:21 -0500 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: correct tool for BMW 'crimps'? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have the tool, bought from a Snap-On truck but not supplied by Snap-On. I'll gather any markings off it . . . . Actually, it is Bluepoint YA3080, Made in USA 29.95 I love the results! <http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=10746&PartNo=ya3080&group_id=1333&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all> Ed Dave Thomas wrote: >What is the correct tool to 'crimp' the clamps that BMW uses? You know, like >the ones on the steering rack boots and such. I have used various types of >pliers with some success but nothing that looks as good as the OEM crimped >ones. > >Dave >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 21:53:47 -0500 From: "Tom Melton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: correct tool for BMW 'crimps'? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Is it similar to an oetiker clamp? http://www.jfoakes.com/OetikerClamps.htm see bottom of this page http://www.engineeringfindings.com/cat22/cat22pg379..pdf for plier and this page for clamp http://www.engineeringfindings.com/cat22/cat22pg130..pdf -Tom >>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] 12/20/04 09:34PM >>> What is the correct tool to 'crimp' the clamps that BMW uses? You know, like the ones on the steering rack boots and such. I have used various types of pliers with some success but nothing that looks as good as the OEM crimped ones. Dave Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 17:32:22 +0000 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: E30 Lock Control Modules Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Ten minutes? Just a screwdriver? With all due respect, Brett, what have you been smoking? :^) 1. Kneeling next to the driver's door and with your head and upper body on the floor of the car under the dash in front of the seat (which, hopefully you remembered to slide all the way back first), remove under-dash panel, (4) screws, pull beeper device out of plastic retainer clamp thingies, set under-dash panel aside, 1.5 minutes. 2. Remove knee bolster, (3) screws, set aside, 1 minute. So far so good. 3. Remove kick panel by removing (1) philips head screw at speaker lower right position, and (2) hex head screws securing the hood release handle to the kick panel, using 8mm nut driver or socket-type tool (note, this is NOT a philips head screwdriver!!!!), and then pulling the panel forward to get the trailing edge out from under the door trim, 3 minutes ASSUMING that you knew before you got out your tools that you needed an 8mm nut driver or socket-type tool to begin with. 4. Remove (3) more philips head screws securing speaker, pull out speaker and set aside, as far away from metal car structure as possible because the speaker magnet wants to attach to the metal, thus putting the speaker in your way where you're more likely to put a sharp object through the cone, which fortunately I didn't, 2 minutes. 5. Remove the tight-fitting plastic cover that is probably intended to keep water from dripping on the lock control module, by first trying to figure out how to remove it, eventually figuring it out (it takes a combination of prying the little plastic clip off of the metal kick panel structure and pulling the outboard edge up in a semi-rotating kind of way, enough to get it out but not enough to cause the plastic clip to break off), 5 minutes the first time, probably 1 minute the next time. 6. Remove the (2) philips head screws holding in the light control module bracket and pull the module/bracket assembly out of the hole, 2 minutes the first time, maybe 1 minute next time. I did all of that just to test the dang thing (by applying a ground wire to the lock and unlock signal wires on the connector to see what happens). If I were to remove it, I would first have to disconnect the battery (per Bentley manual), 2 minutes. (Heck, just walking to and from the trunk takes valuable seconds. Fortunately, the wrench to disconnect the battery is provided by BMW in the trunk lid tool kit.) So far we have 11.5 minutes if you've done this before, and 16.5 minutes if you haven't, and we haven't even unplugged the old module and plugged in the new module yet. Also, for reassembly, add the 10 minutes (minimum) it takes to get all of the screw holes lined up, and the 5 more minutes to figure out that the upper hex head screw for the hood release lever bracket is longer than the one for the lower hole, not the reverse. Also add 5 minutes to re-program the clock and the radio pre-sets. And consider that almost all of this is being done under the dash in a contorted position, where it is dark and you can't see anything very well, resulting in a high level of deleted expletives, adding time to explain to your neighbors what the heck you're doing. Ten minutes, Brett? Yeah, right. :^) But I'll take your advice to buy a new one, thanks. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 22:59:41 -0500 >From: "KMS- Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> >Subject: Re: E30 Lock Control Modules >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >We sell those control units for $96.00. > >You are correct to assume you shouldn't bother with used, unless you want to >run the risk of short life. > >One thing I don't agree with is the "PITA" bit. The install takes less than >10 minutes and requires nothing more than a Phillips screwdriver. > >Brett Anderson >KMS ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 10:51:47 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: <E36> M3 mirrors Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Is there another mirror, example the E46 mirror , that will fit on the E36 M3? I just picked up an E36 but the outside mirrors are pretty small. Thanks, Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 11:02:37 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E36> M3 mirrors Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Quoting [EMAIL PROTECTED]: > Is there another mirror, example the E46 mirror , that will fit on the E36 > M3? I just picked up an E36 but the outside mirrors are pretty small. There are Euro convex mirrors available through BMW, IIRC. These would replace the existing mirrors in the housing. Also, MultiVex has (or had) convex mirrors that attach to the existing mirrors. I have these, purchased through HMS Motorsport. I've had them for ~6 years, so I don't know if they are still available. (Quick check confirms they are listed on the HMS web site - $79.95/pair.) I may have some additional information on the home computer on the Euro mirrors, that I can get to you later this evening if someone else doesn't chime in sooner. Or, you can search the E36M3 list archives at: http://www.bmw-m.net/Digest/ALL-DIGEST-SEARCH.htm Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP ---------------------------------------------------------------- This message was sent using IMP, the Internet Messaging Program. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 15:38:03 -0500 From: marty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36> M3 mirrors Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I installed the euro left mirror glass some months ago and it is world's better. Part number was 51-16-2-267-191 and it's a bit pricey (mine was $73) for a piece of glass - but it is heated which I didn't know until I saw the wires. It's an easy install - just pops out and in. It took me a week or so to get used to it - i would go cross-eyed for a bit when glancing left. To me it was well worth it. hth, marty Jim Bassett wrote: >Quoting [EMAIL PROTECTED]: > > > >>Is there another mirror, example the E46 mirror , that will fit on the E36 >>M3? I just picked up an E36 but the outside mirrors are pretty small. >> >> > >There are Euro convex mirrors available through BMW, IIRC. These would replace >the existing mirrors in the housing. > >Also, MultiVex has (or had) convex mirrors that attach to the existing mirrors. >I have these, purchased through HMS Motorsport. I've had them for ~6 years, so >I don't know if they are still available. (Quick check confirms they are listed >on the HMS web site - $79.95/pair.) > >I may have some additional information on the home computer on the Euro >mirrors, >that I can get to you later this evening if someone else doesn't chime in >sooner. Or, you can search the E36M3 list archives at: >http://www.bmw-m.net/Digest/ALL-DIGEST-SEARCH.htm > >Hope that helps, >Jim Bassett >1998 M3/4 >1993 325is #44 JP > >---------------------------------------------------------------- >This message was sent using IMP, the Internet Messaging Program. > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 12:57:29 -0600 From: "Malcolm Reitz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E36> M3 mirrors Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Yeah, they're small, but they look good :-) If you can get the Euro convex glass for the driver's side, I think it will help your stock mirrors. I got Euro glass for my 328i and, after the adjustment period (objects in the mirror ARE closer than they appear!), I find like the expanded field of vision a lot. Malcolm '88 M5 '98 328i -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 2004 12:52 PM To: [email protected] Subject: [UUC] <E36> M3 mirrors Is there another mirror, example the E46 mirror , that will fit on the E36 M3? I just picked up an E36 but the outside mirrors are pretty small. Thanks, Kevin Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] ________________________________________________________________________ __ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 11:06:59 -0800 From: Tom Kosmalski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Mirrors Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> FWIW, I can personally attest to the fact that E46 mirrors are also pretty small, though I don't know how they compare to those found on an E36. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 21 Dec 2004 17:33:35 -0500 From: marty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36> M3 mirrors Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Tom, Mine was pre-wired and the original glass was plugged in but I don't know if that is true for all. Since there's no dedicated heated mirror switch I think they probably come on with front and/or rear window defrost? marty [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > In a message dated 12/21/2004 3:40:32 PM Eastern Standard Time, > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > >> I installed the euro left mirror glass some months ago and it is world's >> better. Part number was 51-16-2-267-191 and it's a bit pricey (mine was >> $73) for a piece of glass - but it is heated which I didn't know until I >> saw the wires. > > > > Marty: Is the car pre-wired for the heated mirror, or is there an > additional harness needed? > > Tia, Tom > > Tom Wyatt > [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(14 messages) **********
