The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 535 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: 245/45x17 on an E36 //M3? Re: 245/45x17 on an E36 //M3? <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Re: <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Re: <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Where to Buy BBS Emblems Re: <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? They're back Re: Nitrogen filled tires Re: Hartge , Heart guh, Hear gay, Toe may to, Toe ma toe E36 interior color Re: need help with "in-service" date Re: Nitrogen filled tires GGC BMW CCA at Infineon March 5 & 6 <E30> Handling with offset control arm bushing
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 10:36:25 -0800 From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[uucdigest]" <[email protected]> Subject: 245/45x17 on an E36 //M3? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Its tire time again )<: Thought I'd try something a little different if it would fit. Has anyone tried to fit a 245/45x17 on an E36 //M3 rear? 235/45 and 255/40 fit on the rear. The 245/45 has less cross section than the 255/40 but has an inch taller diameter than the standard 245/40. tia, Barry -- The box said "Requires Windows 95, or better." So I bought a Macintosh. I live with fear, death, and evil...but I used to be able to turn it off and use a Mac. " Author Unknown Failure is not an option. It comes bundled with your Microsoft product. -- Ferenc Mantfeld ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 11:12:43 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: 245/45x17 on an E36 //M3? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> yes. a Kuhmo victorracer. of course all the caveats exist re: offset and camber settings. Plus a lot of banging was needed to get it to work. Not nearly as much as was needed to get the MPSC 255s to work..... Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of JKerouac Sent: Friday, February 11, 2005 10:36 AM To: [uucdigest] Subject: [UUC] 245/45x17 on an E36 //M3? Its tire time again )<: Thought I'd try something a little different if it would fit. Has anyone tried to fit a 245/45x17 on an E36 //M3 rear? 235/45 and 255/40 fit on the rear. The 245/45 has less cross section than the 255/40 but has an inch taller diameter than the standard 245/40. tia, Barry -- The box said "Requires Windows 95, or better." So I bought a Macintosh. I live with fear, death, and evil...but I used to be able to turn it off and use a Mac. " Author Unknown Failure is not an option. It comes bundled with your Microsoft product. -- Ferenc Mantfeld Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 11:03:29 -0800 (PST) From: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Kevin: Sorry to hear of your misfortune. BTDT and it sucks! Friend of mine did this on his Boston-driven (salt/snow) 97 M3 a few months ago. With sawzall, etc., it was a few hours. Frustrating! He repeated it last weekend. With factory tool, it was 30min/side. So, corrosion, etc., does matter. The second time around, all was clean and the car had stayed in Atlanta the whole time. He was grinning from ear to ear! Arm was not removed in either case. Neil Deshpande *** "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Well that was a disaster. Destroyed the flange on one side... but the damn thing simply will not come out with this chicken-sh*t little puller from Bimmerworld. I *hate* this. ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 11:14:37 -0800 From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Curious with people doing DIY RTABs, how close to the previous alignment numbers did you get after reassembly? Barry Neil Deshpande wrote: >Kevin: > >Sorry to hear of your misfortune. BTDT and it sucks! >Friend of mine did this on his Boston-driven >(salt/snow) 97 M3 a few months ago. With sawzall, >etc., it was a few hours. Frustrating! He repeated >it last weekend. With factory tool, it was >30min/side. So, corrosion, etc., does matter. The >second time around, all was clean and the car had >stayed in Atlanta the whole time. He was grinning >from ear to ear! >Arm was not removed in either case.Neil Deshpande >** >"Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Well that was a disaster. Destroyed the flange on one >side... but the damn thing simply will not come out >with this chicken-sh*t little puller from Bimmerworld. > I *hate* this > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 14:51:35 -0600 (CST) From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Next Monday I'm going to limp the car to a big shop (10 bays) just down the street (2 miles) that has a hydraulic press. These guys don't do much BMW work (and admit that), but I figure any compitent mechanic (big assumption there) can drop the arms and press the bearings out. Only downside with this strategy is the arms come off (not sure if there's any risk to that, really, just expense). If anybody knows of a risk to removing the arms (i.e., this or that will break) and believes I need to get the old bearings out with the arms on the car at *any* cost, do chime in. Interesting (to me) is that the stock bushings actually looked to be in reasonably good shape (before I destroyed the one, that is). This is a solid bushing... no tears, no real wear that I could see. I decided to do this in the first place because my rear alignment is all a mess (last few years, since I did an H&R/Bilstein upgrade) and my rear tires cup on the inside... and now that I'm getting ready to replace them (at $225/ea), I figured this would make for a good time to get my suspension geometry straight. - k (frustrated and defeated) On Fri, 11 Feb 2005, Neil Deshpande wrote: > > Kevin: > > Sorry to hear of your misfortune. BTDT and it sucks! > > Friend of mine did this on his Boston-driven > (salt/snow) 97 M3 a few months ago. With sawzall, > etc., it was a few hours. Frustrating! He repeated > it last weekend. With factory tool, it was > 30min/side. So, corrosion, etc., does matter. The > second time around, all was clean and the car had > stayed in Atlanta the whole time. He was grinning > from ear to ear! > > Arm was not removed in either case. > > Neil Deshpande > > *** > > "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Well that was a disaster. Destroyed the flange on one > side... but the damn thing simply will not come out > with this chicken-sh*t little puller from Bimmerworld. > I *hate* this. > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 12:56:12 -0800 (PST) From: Richard Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Where to Buy BBS Emblems Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Does anyone know where to buy BBS wheel emblems/platforms in the US? I called BBS NA and they weren't a lot of help and Tire Rack doesn't sell them. Thanks in advance. Regards, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 13:06:30 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> really don't give up. You must have some basic tools. A hack saw? A drill? http://www.tunnellracing.com./techtips/trailbush.html Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous) Sent: Friday, February 11, 2005 12:52 PM To: Neil Deshpande Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: [UUC] <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Next Monday I'm going to limp the car to a big shop (10 bays) just down the street (2 miles) that has a hydraulic press. These guys don't do much BMW work (and admit that), but I figure any compitent mechanic (big assumption there) can drop the arms and press the bearings out. Only downside with this strategy is the arms come off (not sure if there's any risk to that, really, just expense). If anybody knows of a risk to removing the arms (i.e., this or that will break) and believes I need to get the old bearings out with the arms on the car at *any* cost, do chime in. Interesting (to me) is that the stock bushings actually looked to be in reasonably good shape (before I destroyed the one, that is). This is a solid bushing... no tears, no real wear that I could see. I decided to do this in the first place because my rear alignment is all a mess (last few years, since I did an H&R/Bilstein upgrade) and my rear tires cup on the inside... and now that I'm getting ready to replace them (at $225/ea), I figured this would make for a good time to get my suspension geometry straight. - k (frustrated and defeated) On Fri, 11 Feb 2005, Neil Deshpande wrote: > > Kevin: > > Sorry to hear of your misfortune. BTDT and it sucks! > > Friend of mine did this on his Boston-driven > (salt/snow) 97 M3 a few months ago. With sawzall, > etc., it was a few hours. Frustrating! He repeated > it last weekend. With factory tool, it was > 30min/side. So, corrosion, etc., does matter. The > second time around, all was clean and the car had > stayed in Atlanta the whole time. He was grinning > from ear to ear! > > Arm was not removed in either case. > > Neil Deshpande > > *** > > "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Well that was a disaster. Destroyed the flange on one > side... but the damn thing simply will not come out > with this chicken-sh*t little puller from Bimmerworld. > I *hate* this. > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 11:09:31 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: They're back Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hey, Stoner and Chao weighed in after a long absence (I think). Good to see. Thanks to all who also gave updates on Duangerous and the others. -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 11:25:47 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Nitrogen filled tires Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Typical know nothing reporter....... If one just uses common sense (eg. Clack and Click) and your own observations you'll quickly realize that the charge you're paying for N2 is ridiculous for a perceived benefit. Eg. 1. How many of you have an old car or have seen an old car with 20 year old tires that can still support and hold air with no appreciable cracking of the side wall? 2. When the tire jocks break a tire from the rim how much "degradation" do you see in the tire? 3. Will the tire wear through the tread before any affects of O2 or ozone degradation occur... of course they do. 4. Tire manufacturers don't have O2 or ozone inhibitors in their formulations? Waaaaaa 5. Even if fast breakdown of the inner rubber were to occur the volume/area of the inner tire will reach a steady state at some point and unless new air is needed every day the breakdown stops or at worst proceeds at a much slower pace. 6. Do the Costco systems completely remove all the air from the tire before filling it with N2 if so how? Another thing... Ingersall is a respected company but I would like to see a "filter" that can preferentially pass N2 through and block other gases it will either take a very, very specific well controlled hole size and or lots of energy to get the N2 to the other side of the filter in high concentrations. -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 11:37:21 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Hartge , Heart guh, Hear gay, Toe may to, Toe ma toe Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Scott says: "Don't lose too much sleep over this, we've been way more off topic than this before, and we all survived. Well, most of us anyway." But in a little known follow up Scott will be kicking ass and taking names. He will take the names of those who contributed to the OT thread and will secretly add 2/10's to their autocross times and then have his program distributed to the other club autocross organizers throughout the US under the guise of improvements to the rating models. -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 15:35:52 -0500 From: "DUNLAP, LARRY" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: E36 interior color Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I am guessing that there is a label someplace on the car that says what interior color it came equipped with? If so, where would that be? Or is there a good web site that lists the color options by year? I looked in the archives, and have done a google search but am not finding any good references... Specifically, I'm trying to figure out what the heck my 1993 model year has in it. I've seen references to "Beige", "Tan", "Parchment" and "Pearl"... are these all the same color, or where there variations? Thanks! -Larry ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 16:12:44 -0600 From: Dennis Wynne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [email protected], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: need help with "in-service" date Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Note that the E46 seat bottom pops out the same way. Also note that the E39 seat is held in at the front with two bolts. No amount of the normal 3 series tugging on the E39 seat bottom will raise it up. Ask me how I know :-) I am sure if you know the codes lots of different cars have these. C5 'vettes have the option codes for the build on a sticker either inside the glove box on under the lid of a rear storage compartment. With that you can see how the car was ordered. The codes are the order codes - so if you see Z51 then you know it has the performance handling package. Dennis 01 M5 silver/black At 09:38 AM 02/11/2005 -0800, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >In a message dated 02/11/2005 9:07:22 AM Eastern Standard Time, >[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > >> >>Finally, if you are serious about used car shopping buy a 30 day CarFax >>account. Then you can see when the car was >>registered the 1st time - that will be about in-service date, plus you can >>get the full history report. > > >Look under the back seat for the option list, most vehicles in the E36 >series have the sheet attached to the bottom of the back seat above the >right fuel tank access. The seat is easily removed by placing your >fingers under the edge of the seat and pulling up sharply (it snaps out of >both sides usually). > >I don't know for sure that this is so for all vehicles, but IME this has >been true. I think that they are listed in 4 digit codes, and I do not >remember much more than that (nor how to interpret the codes), but this >sheet also has the actual build date and time if the seat is original to >the vehicle. > >hth, Tom > >Tom Wyatt >[EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 16:17:18 -0600 From: Dennis Wynne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Nitrogen filled tires Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I think the key is - if you use the air found a most gas stations or Stop-n-Rob markets you are probably getting bad air and maybe water. I forbade my family from using the local station for air since it the air hose would spray water. I have a small compressor and a portable air tank and "make" my own air all the time. If I could not make my own, then I might be willing to pay a little for Nitrogen or otherwise clean air. Dennis 01 M5 silver/black At 11:25 AM 02/11/2005 -0800, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: >Typical know nothing reporter....... > >If one just uses common sense (eg. Clack and Click) and your own >observations you'll quickly realize that the charge you're paying for N2 is >ridiculous for a perceived benefit. > >Eg. >1. How many of you have an old car or have seen an old car with 20 year old >tires that can still support and hold air with no appreciable cracking of >the side wall? > >2. When the tire jocks break a tire from the rim how much "degradation" do >you see in the tire? > >3. Will the tire wear through the tread before any affects of O2 or ozone >degradation occur... of course they do. > >4. Tire manufacturers don't have O2 or ozone inhibitors in their >formulations? Waaaaaa > >5. Even if fast breakdown of the inner rubber were to occur the volume/area >of the inner tire will reach a steady state at some point and unless new >air is needed every day the breakdown stops or at worst proceeds at a much >slower pace. > >6. Do the Costco systems completely remove all the air from the tire before >filling it with N2 if so how? > > >Another thing... Ingersall is a respected company but I would like to see a >"filter" that can preferentially pass N2 through and block other gases it >will either take a very, very specific well controlled hole size and or >lots of energy to get the N2 to the other side of the filter in high >concentrations. > >-Kevin > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 15:02:28 -0800 From: Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: E36M3 E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: GGC BMW CCA at Infineon March 5 & 6 Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> FYI, GGC BMW CCA is having a school at Infineon the weekend of March 5 & 6, 2005. BMW ownership is not required (but is certainly encouraged!). Full details at: http://www.ggcbmwcca.org/ Price is $499 for BMW CCA members and $539 for non-members (1 year BMW CCA membership included). - Mark ----- [EMAIL PROTECTED] Check out my JustRacing Home Page at: http://www.justracing.com/homepage/mdadgar ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 16:23:38 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: <E30> Handling with offset control arm bushing Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Getting back to the question about the Treehouse racing's Eyeball Arm.... What does the offset bushing do for handling on the E30. I know it changes the castor and increases the self centering tendency. But is it something that means relearning the dynamics of the car (dramatic) or just a gentle improvement which doesn't diminish control(the wheel isn't jerked away from you). Thanks, Kevin ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
