The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 538 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: [bmwuucdigest] <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Re: [bmwuucdigest] <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? HID Install Problems Re: HID Install Problems Re: HID Install Problems Shipping heavy items FS: E36 Coupe car cover Hog Ring Pliers BMW Tool needed Re: Hog Ring Pliers BMW Tool needed Re: <E30> Dash removal Re: <E30> Dash removal Re: <E30> Dash removal Re: Hartge , Heart guh, Hear gay, Toe may to, Toe ma toe Re: <E30> Handling with offset control arm bushing Re: <E30> Handling with offset control arm bushing
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 13:57:07 -0600 From: "Dave Swingle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Now that it's all done - how does one know that this is needed? What are the syptoms? Thanks Dave S 99 M3 ---------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 12:49:12 -0600 (CST) From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Well, sheeesh... that wasn't so difficult afterall. Accept the premise of tearing the bushings out (drill, drywall knife, hacksaw) instead of a nice extraction with a puller, & it's not so bad. About two-and-a-half hours for both sides. Now I badly need an alignment, but that was behind the reason for doing this in the first place. You guys (and ladies) *rock*, thanks to everybody who chimed in with a suggestion or words of encouragement. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 17:19:45 -0500 From: "Michael Lawrence" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The easy test is to use 3rd gear on a flat stretch of road. Do full throttle then lift and notice any directional change of the car without steering input. Basically, the arm moves when you either load or unload the rear suspension with the throttle. When it moves, it changes the toe on a rear wheel which would steer the car. If the car requires steering input to maintain a straight line while doing the above, the bushing is most likely bad. Repeat several times to be sure it wasn�t a bad stretch of road etc. As to methods, the tool is nice but not a time saver if you are comfortable using a Sawzall. I changed 2 sets in about 1hr per car using a drill to make 2 holes, sawzall to cut the bushing(outer metal) while carefully avoiding cutting the arm in two. This time also included finding the right drill bit, finding an extension cord etc. Having the tools laid out and focusing on time, each side should take 15-20mins. A hammer and 2x4 block were used to insert the new bushing. Carefully marking the mounting bracket before removal insures you have a good chance to R&R the bushing without the need for an alignment. I did have an alignment on both M3s and they were still spot on. After using both, I believe that the sawzall method would be the quickest vs wrenching the bolt on the tool. After cutting with a sawzall, the bushing fell out. The chance of making an error with the hack method is much higher vs using the tool, so for the novice, get the tool. Mike -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dave Swingle Sent: Sunday, February 13, 2005 2:57 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [UUC] [bmwuucdigest] <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Now that it's all done - how does one know that this is needed? What are the syptoms? Thanks Dave S 99 M3 ---------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 12 Feb 2005 12:49:12 -0600 (CST) From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E36> RTAB removal w/ flange? Well, sheeesh... that wasn't so difficult afterall. Accept the premise of tearing the bushings out (drill, drywall knife, hacksaw) instead of a nice extraction with a puller, & it's not so bad. About two-and-a-half hours for both sides. Now I badly need an alignment, but that was behind the reason for doing this in the first place. You guys (and ladies) *rock*, thanks to everybody who chimed in with a suggestion or words of encouragement. Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.7 - Release Date: 2/10/2005 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.7 - Release Date: 2/10/2005 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 12:01:01 -0800 From: Raza Uddin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED] Com" <[email protected]>, E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: HID Install Problems Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I apologize about the cross-posting, but figured I need all the help I can get. I bought a set of used ZKWs and HID kit with PnP harnesses. I pretested everything before I installed it, and everything worked, low beam HID, High Beam H1s, and my fog lights. Last night when installing exactly as I tested, I can get the low beam HID's to work, but if I connect my High beams into the Pnp harness, nothing will work (high beams or HIDs). If I leave the high beams unplugged, the HIDs will work. Also, in the process, my fogs have stopped working (both of them). Even with the lights on, if I press the button to turn on the fogs nothings happens- not even the green light on the dash lights up. In addition, when I do turn on the HIDs, their is a significant surge in power that actually causes all the needles in the instrument cluster to dip slightly. Is this normal? I double checked all the wiring, all the fuses (replaced slots 11 and 12 with 15A), and I still can't get everything to work. Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advance! Drive Safely, Raza ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 17:06:43 -0800 From: JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Raza Uddin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "[EMAIL PROTECTED] Com" <[email protected]>, E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: HID Install Problems Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> With a reliable voltmeter, test the wire connector for each bulb and ground to ground and to each other. Likely that you have a short from one bulb connector to another, and/or to ground, and/or an open ground. Using a voltmeter will show right away which connections are good and bad. Barry Raza Uddin wrote: >I apologize about the cross-posting, but figured I need all the help I can get. >I bought a set of used ZKWs and HID kit with PnP harnesses. >I pretested everything before I installed it, and everything worked, >low beam HID, High Beam H1s, and my fog lights. >Last night when installing exactly as I tested, I can get the low beam >HID's to work, but if I connect my High beams into the Pnp harness, >nothing will work (high beams or HIDs). If I leave the high beams >unplugged, the HIDs will work. >Also, in the process, my fogs have stopped working (both of them). >Even with the lights on, if I press the button to turn on the fogs >nothings happens- not even the green light on the dash lights up. In >addition, when I do turn on the HIDs, their is a significant surge in >power that actually causes all the needles in the instrument cluster >to dip slightly. Is this normal? >I double checked all the wiring, all the fuses (replaced slots 11 and >12 with 15A), and I still can't get everything to work. >Any help is appreciated.Thanks in advance!Drive Safely, Raza > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 23:53:43 -0800 From: Raza Uddin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED] Com" <[email protected]>, E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: HID Install Problems Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks for all the help. I still need to get a multimeter, but I was able to double and triple check all the wiring and PnP harness. From all the resources and the web, everything is correctly plugged in and working. Here are my results: 1) With the PnP connected to the high beams, the HID's will not work but the highbeams will work. When I was testing everything, it seems like the igniters are not getting enough juice to pump out the 23kV. The HID will flicker when the lights are turned on, but don't fully ignite the bulbs. Interestingly enough, with the high beam connectors plugged into the stock, US 9005 bulbs, both the HIDs and the high beams function properly. 2) With the PnP disconnected from the high beams, the HIDs will work. 3) No matter what I've tried with the fog lights, they are not working. If anything, I guess I am lucky that when the HIDs are working, I don't get the dreaded LBF on the OBC. After I get a voltimeter, is there anything else I should try to do? Drive Safely, Raza <--- can install and remove E36 headlights in a flash (hehe). On Sun, 13 Feb 2005 17:06:43 -0800, JKerouac <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > With a reliable voltmeter, test the wire connector for each bulb and > ground to ground and to each other. Likely that you have a short from > one bulb connector to another, and/or to ground, and/or an open ground. > Using a voltmeter will show right away which connections are good and bad. > Barry > Raza Uddin wrote: > > >I apologize about the cross-posting, but figured I need all the help I can > >get. > >I bought a set of used ZKWs and HID kit with PnP harnesses. > >I pretested everything before I installed it, and everything worked, > >low beam HID, High Beam H1s, and my fog lights. > >Last night when installing exactly as I tested, I can get the low beam > >HID's to work, but if I connect my High beams into the Pnp harness, > >nothing will work (high beams or HIDs). If I leave the high beams > >unplugged, the HIDs will work. > >Also, in the process, my fogs have stopped working (both of them). > >Even with the lights on, if I press the button to turn on the fogs > >nothings happens- not even the green light on the dash lights up. In > >addition, when I do turn on the HIDs, their is a significant surge in > >power that actually causes all the needles in the instrument cluster > >to dip slightly. Is this normal? > >I double checked all the wiring, all the fuses (replaced slots 11 and > >12 with 15A), and I still can't get everything to work. > >Any help is appreciated.Thanks in advance!Drive Safely, Raza > > > ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 22:23:41 GMT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Shipping heavy items Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cheapest for bulky items in my experience is Greyhound but they have a weight limit of about 75 lbs IIRC. You drop at the station and recipient picks up at the closest Greydog station. Mike A ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 16:24:49 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: FS: E36 Coupe car cover Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi all, I'm selling an E36 coupe car cover. Used only for ~2 months, in very good condition. $30/OBO. For pix and details on the type of cover, see: http://www.justracing.com/classified/63 Feel free to email me with any questions. Jim Bassett ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 19:39:59 -0500 From: Ed MacVaugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected], [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Hog Ring Pliers BMW Tool needed Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I found hog rings for my E30 seat recover project in the ETK parts catalog. 52 10 1 945 543 Anyone have access to the special tools database who can tell me the number of the corresponding pliers? My upholstery guy says that BMW uses a smaller size rings than US cars and his pliers can't keep hold of the smaller rings. Anyone? Thanks, Ed With seats spread throughout his family room in degrees of disassembly. -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.7 - Release Date: 2/10/2005 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 20:55:23 -0500 From: "KMS- Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Hog Ring Pliers BMW Tool needed Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> There is no "factory" hog ring plier (which I just confirmed on bmwtis.com. I use one from Blue Point (Snap On), and it works fine. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > > I found hog rings for my E30 seat recover project in the ETK parts > catalog. 52 10 1 945 543 > > Anyone have access to the special tools database who can tell me the > number of the corresponding pliers? > > My upholstery guy says that BMW uses a smaller size rings than US cars > and his pliers can't keep hold of the smaller rings. ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 17:36:08 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E30> Dash removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The blower motor is accessed from the engine compartment. I'd replace every bulb in the dash & climate controls, etc. I'd replace the batteries on the S.I. board. I might replace the heat control valve. But I have no idea how you'd go about replacing the dash. Don't they pretty much build the car around it? Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2005 12:35:34 -0500 >From: Matthew Twigg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: UUC <[email protected]> >Subject: <E30> Dash removal >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Are there any good guides on the web for E30 dash removal? >Hit the ol' Google but nothing came up... > >I have a nice replacement for my old cracked beastie... > >Also, any items I should address while the dash is off? >Blower Motors? >A/C thermostat control , etc...? > > >Thanks! > >Matt >1991 325iX ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 17:47:15 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E30> Dash removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> What does ABS have to do with this? Pulling the wheel is not that hard. Disconnect the battery. Wait at least 20 minutes for the air bag circuit to discharge. Unplug the orange connector on the bottom of the steering column, behind the access panel. (This may be redundant.) Use a Torx socket to unscrew the two screws (one on each side, hidden away inside tiny holes in the wheel cover, which you get to from the back side of the steering wheel, which is the side of the wheel which faces the front of the car, go figure). Pull the air bag unit out and unplug the connector. Use a socket (24mm? 22mm? one of those, with 1/2" drive) to remove the big nut that holds the wheel (not to be mistaken with the other "nut that holds the wheel"), but not going against the steering column lock, you can break off the lock. (One trick I've found that helps hold the wheel from turning while fighting with the Big Nut - I used The Club, pulling it in the opposite direction as the wrench.) Mark the hub and column splines so that you can get it lined up right again. Pull off the wheel. While the air bag unit is unplugged, do not connect the battery and turn on the key, or it will set an SRS code that requires an expensive reset tool or a trip to the dealer to re-set. Installation is the reverse of removal, excpet: Use LocTight (sp?) on the nut, or replace it - I used Purple. Make sure you line up the Torx screws *exactly perfectly* before tightening, or you will strip the threads - ask me how I know. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2005 16:32:45 -0500 >From: Matthew Twigg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Cc: UUC <[email protected]> >Subject: Re: <E30> Dash removal >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Dave, >Do you think it is possible to remove the dash without pulling the wheel? >Perhaps tilting it and pulling out the passenger's door? >I ask as I have ABS and though I am sure I can deal with that I would >rather not... > >Thanks again. >-Matt ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 17:52:42 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Cc: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E30> Dash removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Different BMWs require different battery disconnect time. Most of the '90 - '91 era BMWs with which I'm familiar require a 20 minute disconnect time. Some of the newer cars only need a few seconds. But don't take my word for it. There is an NHTSA web site which Pat Dohahue (what ever happened to Pat?) turned me onto which details this info. The web site is intended for emergency workers who have to remove victims from crashed cars. For some reason they don't want air bags going off while they're doing that. Go figure. It is interesting that the E36 Bentley manual even mentions the disconnect time. The E30 Bentley manual says that air bag removal should be left to the dealer. I boldly went where no hack had gone before. Well OK, maybe there was one or two before me. :^) Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> >Subject: Re: <E30> Dash removal >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >The capacitor drain time recommended is only about 10 >or 20 minutes. Think the Bentley mentions this amount >of time, at least for the E36. > >Brian ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 18:01:34 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Hartge , Heart guh, Hear gay, Toe may to, Toe ma toe Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Nah. Too much work. Scott >Date: Fri, 11 Feb 2005 11:37:21 -0800 >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: [email protected] >Subject: Re: Hartge , Heart guh, Hear gay, Toe may to, Toe ma toe .Message-ID: <OF8953BF8D.89A9D88A-ON88256FA5.006B5D2A->[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Scott says: > >"Don't lose too much sleep over this, we've been way more off topic than >this before, and we all survived. Well, most of us anyway." > >But in a little known follow up Scott will be kicking ass and taking names. >He will take the names of those who contributed to the OT thread and will >secretly add 2/10's to their autocross times and then have his program >distributed to the other club autocross organizers throughout the US under >the guise of improvements to the rating models. > >-Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 13 Feb 2005 23:24:26 -0000 From: "Nancy and Bob Fluharty" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E30> Handling with offset control arm bushing Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Chris said: > in my experience I have found that > -the bushings make the car much more stable at higher speeds (90mph+) > -the bushings make the car noticeably more difficult to turn in I've been sitting on a set of these for a year, trying to decide if I want to install them. I know many people like them, Mike Miller LOVES them, but there are dissenters like Rich D who think the added caster is a bad thing. I'm planning to step up my autocross participation this summer, so I'm not looking for slower turn-in. For that matter, I've never felt any deficiency in high-speed stability. Do others agree with Chris? If that's the consensus, then I don't want them. Other views? Bob Fluharty 87 325is/3.0 Cincinnati ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 14 Feb 2005 00:36:09 -0500 From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW Digest" <[email protected]> Cc: "Nancy and Bob Fluharty" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E30> Handling with offset control arm bushing Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Chris said: > > > in my experience I have found that > > -the bushings make the car much more stable at higher speeds (90mph+) > > -the bushings make the car noticeably more difficult to turn in > > I've been sitting on a set of these for a year, trying to decide if I want > to install them. I know many people like them, Mike Miller LOVES them, but > there are dissenters like Rich D who think the added caster is a > bad thing. I don't know that I said it is a "bad thing" per se, it does add static caster and some dynamic negative camber. I simply don't care for the additional caster with my suspension and wheels. The steering can be significantly heavier in an E30 (depends on the rest of your suspension and your wheels/tires), it was in my 325is and made the tires rub the fender liners. Turn in wasn't as sharp. > I'm planning to step up my autocross participation this summer, so I'm not > looking for slower turn-in. For that matter, I've never felt any > deficiency in high-speed stability. Exactly, and hence, why I went back to a centered, near solid rubber bushing after originally using E30 M3 offset bushings on my 1990 325is. As they say, YMMV. Regards, Rich ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
