The BMW UUC Digest Volume 3 : Issue 31 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: E36 fuse box removal Re: E36 fuse box removal Re: E36 fuse box removal Re: E36 fuse box removal Flywheel wear Re: Flywheel wear Re: Flywheel wear Re: Flywheel wear <E36> M3 coilover opinions Re: <E36> M3 coilover opinions Re: <E36> M3 coilover opinions Re: <E36> M3 coilover opinions Re: e36 starting in gear Re: e36 starting in gear Re: e36 starting in gear
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 20:32:36 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED] Com" <[email protected]> Subject: E36 fuse box removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Anyone know how to remove the E36 fuse box? The Bentley and the TIS have don't mention a thing. I'm trying to get the wiring harness down to the minimum, but all "roads lead to Rome" or in this case all wires lead to the fuse box... thanks Marco ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 08:46:01 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[EMAIL PROTECTED] Com" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E36 fuse box removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The preferred method of removal depends on whether you want to re-install it. Gary Derian > Anyone know how to remove the E36 fuse box? The Bentley and the TIS have > don't mention a thing. I'm trying to get the wiring harness down to the > minimum, but all "roads lead to Rome" or in this case all wires lead to > the > fuse box... > > thanks > > Marco uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 07:07:46 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "[EMAIL PROTECTED] Com" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E36 fuse box removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> the answer is "maybe" Aesthetically yes, if I push the cage through the firewall, it may have to be removed due to clearance issues. Marco -----Original Message----- From: Gary Derian [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 5:46 AM To: Marco Romani; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Com Subject: Re: [UUC] E36 fuse box removal The preferred method of removal depends on whether you want to re-install it. Gary Derian > Anyone know how to remove the E36 fuse box? The Bentley and the TIS have > don't mention a thing. I'm trying to get the wiring harness down to the > minimum, but all "roads lead to Rome" or in this case all wires lead to > the > fuse box... > > thanks > > Marco uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 10:26:30 -0500 From: Chris Turrisi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: E36 fuse box removal Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Been there....done that....don't remove the fuse box. What I did was start with a wire in the cabin, trace it to Rome and then wiggle it, till I found it in the fuse box, then opened the fan connector, removed the offending wire and pulled it out. Three things made my life 100 times easier, the wiring diagrams in the Bentley (but don't trust it blindly), BMW's electrical connector handbook (PN: 90-88-6-611-159) which shows you how to open each connector and BMW terminal tool (PN: 88-88-6-611-132) which allows you to "pull" some of the connectors apart. and lastly time....it took me close to 80 hours to pull the "extra" wires out of my car, but I did save approx 15lbs in just wire. Take a look here for weights: http://www.turrisimotorsports.com/race_team/car_setup-tech/weights_components/weights_index.htm Hope this helps, - Chris At 08:32 PM 1/11/2006 -0800, you wrote: >Anyone know how to remove the E36 fuse box? The Bentley and the TIS have >don't mention a thing. I'm trying to get the wiring harness down to the >minimum, but all "roads lead to Rome" or in this case all wires lead to the >fuse box... > >thanks > >Marco > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 21:33:05 -0800 From: Kraig <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Flywheel wear Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> About 500 miles ago I put on a new flywheel with a used clutch. The clutch has turned out to be mildly defective and I removed it today. I found what seems to me to be abnormal wear on the flywheel. I have taken photos and posted them here at http://homepage.mac.com/kamador/ flywheel/ Is this normal wear? I had imagined it would look something more like a brake rotor when I opened it. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 22:37:15 -0800 From: Dave Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Flywheel wear Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Wed, 2006-01-11 at 21:33 -0800, Kraig wrote: > About 500 miles ago I put on a new flywheel with a used clutch. The > clutch has turned out to be mildly defective and I removed it today. > I found what seems to me to be abnormal wear on the flywheel. I have > taken photos and posted them here at http://homepage.mac.com/kamador/ > flywheel/ > > Is this normal wear? I had imagined it would look something more like > a brake rotor when I opened it. Thats 500 miles of wear on that flywheel? Looks like you might have found out why a used clutch is something you just dont bother with. Looks pretty nasty. Looks nasty for 100K miles. Is it as bad in person as it looks in the photos? In picture three it almost looks pitted. Was it slipping real bad? Dave T. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 22:48:35 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Flywheel wear Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> how did the blue paint get on the flywheel? that flywheel looks like it's toast. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dave Thomas Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:37 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [UUC] Flywheel wear On Wed, 2006-01-11 at 21:33 -0800, Kraig wrote: > About 500 miles ago I put on a new flywheel with a used clutch. The > clutch has turned out to be mildly defective and I removed it today. > I found what seems to me to be abnormal wear on the flywheel. I have > taken photos and posted them here at http://homepage.mac.com/kamador/ > flywheel/ > > Is this normal wear? I had imagined it would look something more like > a brake rotor when I opened it. Thats 500 miles of wear on that flywheel? Looks like you might have found out why a used clutch is something you just dont bother with. Looks pretty nasty. Looks nasty for 100K miles. Is it as bad in person as it looks in the photos? In picture three it almost looks pitted. Was it slipping real bad? Dave T. Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 22:57:39 -0800 From: Kraig <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Flywheel wear Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I think that blue is the "blueing" that happens when a clutch burns up on the flywheel. The clutch was slipping a bit, so I think that these pockets might not of been properly gripping and so not properly wearing like the other parts of the flywheel. Just a hunch, I'll take it to a shop to get it resurfaced and see what they think about it. On Jan 11, 2006, at 10:48 PM, Marco Romani wrote: > how did the blue paint get on the flywheel? > > that flywheel looks like it's toast. > > Marco > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Dave Thomas > Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:37 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [UUC] Flywheel wear > > > On Wed, 2006-01-11 at 21:33 -0800, Kraig wrote: >> About 500 miles ago I put on a new flywheel with a used clutch. The >> clutch has turned out to be mildly defective and I removed it today. >> I found what seems to me to be abnormal wear on the flywheel. I have >> taken photos and posted them here at http://homepage.mac.com/kamador/ >> flywheel/ >> >> Is this normal wear? I had imagined it would look something more like >> a brake rotor when I opened it. > > Thats 500 miles of wear on that flywheel? Looks like you might have > found out why a used clutch is something you just dont bother with. > Looks pretty nasty. Looks nasty for 100K miles. Is it as bad in person > as it looks in the photos? In picture three it almost looks pitted. > Was > it slipping real bad? > > Dave T. > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/ > [email protected] > > > ______________________________________________________________________ > ____ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the > BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/ > [email protected] > > > ______________________________________________________________________ > ____ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the > BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 00:43:03 -0800 (PST) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: <E36> M3 coilover opinions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I am starting to consider changing over to some coilovers on my M3 for the street instead of putzing around trying to find a good set of springs for the Bilstein Sports that won't be so darn harsh. These will 98% be used on the street, with a few future driving classes possible. I am wondering what the opinions are for the best matched set units that run well (low harshness) on the street: H&R coilovers, Bilstein PSS9, or the Ground Control (or if you know of any others that you feel are better than any of these, please let me know). Or if anyone thinks I should just stick to the Bilstein Sports and a different set of springs, please say so! :) I really can't seem to figure why the H&R OE Sport springs I currently have are so harsh; the full Sport springs I had on my previous 93 325 weren't this bad; but then again I was riding around on 45 profile tires on that car as opposed to 40 on the M3, and the Bilstein Sports on that car probably weren't as stiff as on the M3. Could worn shock mounts contribute greatly to bad harshness? Anyway, any and all info and opinions are appreciated. TIA, Brian 95 M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 02:35:34 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E36> M3 coilover opinions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Lots of opinions on this, mine is that the harshness comes mostly from the Bilsteins and probably contributed to by old bushings, not the springs, so use Koni instead. Not harsh at all. Along with Konis, on the '97, I keep stock springs, rears with the lower spacer pad removed. On the front, torch to close to dull red the top coil and compress down using the upper spring cup, so the top half coil that compresses under load around the spring perch now touches the second coil with no load. Front bar is 24mm, from a '94 325i 4 dr. Rear bar is stock with urethane bushings. Stock style harder rubber RTABS with shims. If you get more motivated and the car has much over 75k miles, install urethane rear subframe and delrin diff mounts. The mounts make a considerable difference in how the rear hooks up under hard transition loads. If you DIY it then the parts cost is less than coilovers. Makes no sense to do springs on a car with old bushings anyway. They're ought to be a law against it actually. I think many people go for springs, when in a street car the improvement they want really is what the bushings and removing a spring pad do. Since you're starting with a '95, a set of takeoff springs and front struts to mount the Konis in from a 3.2 liter car would be a good start, maybe from someone who's already done coilovers. Other opinions will differ. Barry Brian Ruiz wrote: >I am starting to consider changing over to some >coilovers on my M3 for the street instead of putzing >around trying to find a good set of springs for the >Bilstein Sports that won't be so darn harsh...... >Anyway, any and all info and opinions are appreciated. >TIA,Brian 95 M3 > > ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 11:19:16 -0500 From: "Dinah DeRoller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Brian Ruiz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E36> M3 coilover opinions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brian, I've got the original TCKline/ProParts coilovers using Koni single adjustable shocks on my '97 M3 2door. Combined with the Eibach sways w/urethane bushings, the ride is quite firm, yet supple enough to keep it comfortable and prevent jarring over road irregularities. I've set it once (very low height) and unless there is an alignment issue I haven't needed to fiddle with it, even with 10 track events a year. I think I put this setup in in late 2000. Dinah Brian Ruiz wrote: >I am starting to consider changing over to some >coilovers on my M3 for the street instead of putzing >around trying to find a good set of springs for the >Bilstein Sports that won't be so darn harsh...... >Anyway, any and all info and opinions are appreciated. >TIA,Brian 95 M3 > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 09:00:59 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Brian Ruiz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E36> M3 coilover opinions Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> You want to change to coil-overs to reduce harshness? That ain't gonna work. Harshness is nearly always caused by insufficient wheel travel. Very strong compression damping can add harshness but my experience with Bilsteins is they don't have such damping. For 98% street use, stick with stock suspension. Gary Derian >I am starting to consider changing over to some > coilovers on my M3 for the street instead of putzing > around trying to find a good set of springs for the > Bilstein Sports that won't be so darn harsh. These > will 98% be used on the street, with a few future > driving classes possible. I am wondering what the > opinions are for the best matched set units that run > well (low harshness) on the street: H&R coilovers, > Bilstein PSS9, or the Ground Control (or if you know > of any others that you feel are better than any of > these, please let me know). > > Or if anyone thinks I should just stick to the > Bilstein Sports and a different set of springs, please > say so! :) I really can't seem to figure why the H&R > OE Sport springs I currently have are so harsh; the > full Sport springs I had on my previous 93 325 weren't > this bad; but then again I was riding around on 45 > profile tires on that car as opposed to 40 on the M3, > and the Bilstein Sports on that car probably weren't > as stiff as on the M3. Could worn shock mounts > contribute greatly to bad harshness? > > Anyway, any and all info and opinions are appreciated. > > TIA, > Brian > 95 M3 > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 05:49:19 -0800 (PST) From: P Kroon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: e36 starting in gear Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks everyone. Like I said, this has never been an issue for me until now. I've only done it a couple times by accident, and I just assumed that the interlock was broken. I'm very surprised that BMW didn't add this until 96. Seems like it is an obvious safety concern. At least I don't have to fix anything! Thanks again, -Paul __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 09:52:10 -0500 From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: e36 starting in gear Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Obvious safety concern? Well, depends upon your POV. FWIW, many Porsche 996 owners on another list to which I belong have disabled this interlock, because they like the flexibility of being able to start it in gear if needed. I too would like the ability to start the car without having to climb in. So I wouldn't necessarily categorize it entirely as an "obvious" safety concern. I guess it's just the further dumbing down of the American driver.... :-) Vty, --Dennis -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of P Kroon Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 8:49 AM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [UUC] e36 starting in gear Thanks everyone. Like I said, this has never been an issue for me until now. I've only done it a couple times by accident, and I just assumed that the interlock was broken. I'm very surprised that BMW didn't add this until 96. Seems like it is an obvious safety concern. At least I don't have to fix anything! Thanks again, -Paul __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 12 Jan 2006 08:46:34 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: e36 starting in gear Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 1/11/06 8:45 PM, Mark Dadgar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > On Jan 11, 2006, at 5:05 PM, Jim Bassett wrote: >> However, in '96 (I think) an "interlock" was added, requiring the clutch >> pedal to be pressed before the car will start. > > Your memory was correct - it appeared in 1996. My 96 M3 does not have a clutch interlock. You never seem quite know what features were actually installed on any particular 96, hence its nickname below. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD! ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
