The BMW UUC Digest Volume 3 : Issue 60 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: Oxygen sensor voltage to air/fuel ratio Re: Oxygen sensor voltage to air/fuel ratio Re: Oxygen sensor voltage to air/fuel ratio Re: Oxygen sensor voltage to air/fuel ratio Re: Oxygen sensor voltage to air/fuel ratio Re: Oxygen sensor voltage to air/fuel ratio BMW wiring Re: How to Remove Wires from Electrical Connectors? Re: How to Remove Wires from Electrical Connectors? Re: How to Remove Wires from Electrical Connectors? Re: How to Remove Wires from Electrical Connectors? finely adjustable fuel pressure regulator <E36> rhetorical question? Re: <E36> rhetorical question? "Polizei" E39 M5...
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2006 21:32:01 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Oxygen sensor voltage to air/fuel ratio Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> No, the entire useful range of a narrow band oxygen sensor is very close to stoichiometric and not useful for either power tuning or economy tuning. Away from stoichiometric the voltage is sensitive to temperature and pressure. Gary Derian > Is there a calculation to convert Oxygen sensor voltage to air/fuel ratio? > tia, > Barry > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 08:32:23 -0500 From: "Dawes, Chet " <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Oxygen sensor voltage to air/fuel ratio Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Barry, The short answer is yes.....but it will be very sensor design dependent, non-linear and only be reliable in the regions *right* around stoich such as 14.5-15.0. The cheap A/F meters that use a switching O2 sensor are effectively just that.....a filtered switch to indicate lean or rich. No switching sensor will give an accurate reading of how rich or how lean you're really operating. With the switching sensors I deal with daily.....the voltage output toggles between 750mV and 150mV while the highly accurate (and expensive!) wide band AFR sensor reads a steady 14.7:1. If you filter the signal heavily enough you can glean a 'stoich' mV reading but that will be engine and sensor dependent. Cheers, Chet Dawes -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "[uucdigest]" Subject: Oxygen sensor voltage to air/fuel ratio Is there a calculation to convert Oxygen sensor voltage to air/fuel ratio? tia, Barry **************************************************************************************** Note: If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you. **************************************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 15:34:53 -0500 From: "Dawes, Chet " <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Oxygen sensor voltage to air/fuel ratio Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Barry, Accuracy in the 12.8-13.7 range can only be achieved with a wide band AFR meter. That's what most of us are looking for to make power, but not what is most cost friendly for the purpose of production emissions control devices. Unfortunately the true wide band sensors are considerably more expensive than switching type O2's. But a few complete systems are out there in production and available at reasonable cost ($300+) compared to the sensors used in auto development and calibration which cost in the $1500-$3000 range depending on a list of things. All dynamometer use I've seen is with wide band AFR sensors like those listed below. (if any tuning/dyno shop I ran into used a switching sensor for AFR measurement, I'd walk...no run....away) Most AFR sensors kits can be configured for an external readout or analog voltage output and typically they have a stand-alone controller for sensor heaters, etc. A few examples: Innovate LM-1 http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php Dynojet's Wide Band Commander - as seen on TV! ;-) http://www.widebandcommander.com/ More expensive options: (sorry, no links) ETAS (Bosch) LA2, LA3, LA4 lambda meters Horriba NGK (NTK) Most of the *good* kits (including the two above) use either a Bosch (LSU4) or NGK (UEGO) wide band sensor. Making your own is possible if you're electrically inclined..... Do some google surfing and you're likely to find schematics, etc. I can't recommend anything other than what I've used and those are all expensive development units which would receive high praise. A friend of mine has a LM-1 and has had good experience with it. Hope that helps, Cheers, Chet Dawes -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 2:33 PM To: Dawes, Chet Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: [UUC] Oxygen sensor voltage to air/fuel ratio Reason I'm asking is that I'm buying OBDCOM, and will be trying to tune based on engine parameters like manifold pressure and MAF airflow instead of needing to go to a dyno to tune and test everything. Accuracy between 12.8 and 13.7:1 is what I want. A slight change in fuel pressure can change air/fuel a half a point and be worth a few hp. What are the tailpipe sensors that dynamometers use? Is it a separate device that can have its own readout rather than plugging in to the dyno's computer? What would be involved to make my own tailpipe a/f sensor? tia, Barry **************************************************************************************** Note: If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, or an employee or agent responsible for delivering this message to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please notify us immediately by replying to the message and deleting it from your computer. Thank you. **************************************************************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Feb 2006 11:33:24 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "Dawes, Chet " <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected] Subject: Re: Oxygen sensor voltage to air/fuel ratio Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Reason I'm asking is that I'm buying OBDCOM, and will be trying to tune based on engine parameters like manifold pressure and MAF airflow instead of needing to go to a dyno to tune and test everything. Accuracy between 12.8 and 13.7:1 is what I want. A slight change in fuel pressure can change air/fuel a half a point and be worth a few hp. What are the tailpipe sensors that dynamometers use? Is it a separate device that can have its own readout rather than plugging in to the dyno's computer? What would be involved to make my own tailpipe a/f sensor? tia, Barry Dawes, Chet wrote: >Barry, >The short answer is yes.....but it will be very sensor design dependent, >non-linear and only be reliable in the regions *right* around stoich >such as 14.5-15.0. >The cheap A/F meters that use a switching O2 sensor are effectively just >that.....a filtered switch to indicate lean or rich. No switching >sensor will give an accurate reading of how rich or how lean you're >really operating. >With the switching sensors I deal with daily.....the voltage output >toggles between 750mV and 150mV while the highly accurate (and >expensive!) wide band AFR sensor reads a steady 14.7:1. If you filter >the signal heavily enough you can glean a 'stoich' mV reading but that >will be engine and sensor dependent. Cheers, Chet Dawes > > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 15:35:38 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Dawes, Chet " <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Oxygen sensor voltage to air/fuel ratio Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> You need a wide band O2 sensor. There are several on the market. They require fairly sophisticated electronics to operate the sensor. Gary Derian > Reason I'm asking is that I'm buying OBDCOM, and will be trying to > tune based on engine parameters like manifold pressure and MAF airflow > instead of needing to go to a dyno to tune and test everything. Accuracy > between 12.8 and 13.7:1 is what I want. A slight change in fuel pressure > can change air/fuel a half a point and be worth a few hp. > What are the tailpipe sensors that dynamometers use? Is it a separate > device that can have its own readout rather than plugging in to the dyno's > computer? > What would be involved to make my own tailpipe a/f sensor? > tia, > Barry > > Dawes, Chet wrote: > >>Barry, >>The short answer is yes.....but it will be very sensor design dependent, >>non-linear and only be reliable in the regions *right* around stoich >>such as 14.5-15.0. >>The cheap A/F meters that use a switching O2 sensor are effectively just >>that.....a filtered switch to indicate lean or rich. No switching >>sensor will give an accurate reading of how rich or how lean you're >>really operating. >>With the switching sensors I deal with daily.....the voltage output >>toggles between 750mV and 150mV while the highly accurate (and >>expensive!) wide band AFR sensor reads a steady 14.7:1. If you filter >>the signal heavily enough you can glean a 'stoich' mV reading but that >>will be engine and sensor dependent. Cheers, Chet Dawes >> > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 15:44:20 -0500 From: James Moran <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Oxygen sensor voltage to air/fuel ratio Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I recently purchased an LM-1 and have been playing with it. I also purchased an LM-2 which is an auxiliary input allowing the LM-1 to read RPM and 5 other 0-5 VDC inputs. The LM-1 and LM-2 also logs up to 45 minutes of data, which is very handy. Of more benefit is the software. I recommend reading the manuals and viewing the videos on Innovate's web site. Recommended. James Moran 1988 M6 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 08:12:32 -0800 (PST) From: "Michael Andre, Ph.D." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: BMW wiring Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > I also like how the instrument panel is grounded by the passenger's right > foot. Maybe that's why the instrument panel on my old car was so flaky--I rarely had a passenger. Would it be best if the passenger took their shoe off to ensure a better connection? Mike A ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 20:10:05 +0100 (CET) From: John Firestone <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: BMW UUC digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: How to Remove Wires from Electrical Connectors? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Mon, 6 Feb 2006, KMS- Brett Anderson wrote: > Are you talking about a factory BMW connector? > > If so, there is a lock in the plastic connector that must be undone, > then there is a special tool to remove the pins on some, or others the > pins will just slide out once the lock is released. > > Also, if you're talking about a factory connector, you're wasting your > time anyway, as you cannot buy the pin contacts to put on the end of the > wires you're planning on cutting. Which end of the CD cable are you referring to: the radio side or the changer side? I have bought what I believe are the two contacts for the radio side - the round 2.5 mm^2 round AMP contacts and the small ELO AMP dual row header contacts -- from my dealer, both with wires and without. I have also bought an unwired DIN equivalent of the 2.5 mm^2 contacts. Are you guys looking for and discussing something else? -John '96 318is ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Feb 2006 14:20:53 -0500 From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: John Firestone <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: BMW UUC digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: How to Remove Wires from Electrical Connectors? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I've not been able to purchase any pin contacts for late (post E30) cars without the wire attached. John, could you forward any part numbers you might have for the wireless versions? Thanks Brett Anderson KMS John Firestone wrote: > On Mon, 6 Feb 2006, KMS- Brett Anderson wrote: > > >>Are you talking about a factory BMW connector? >> >>If so, there is a lock in the plastic connector that must be undone, >>then there is a special tool to remove the pins on some, or others the >>pins will just slide out once the lock is released. >> >>Also, if you're talking about a factory connector, you're wasting your >>time anyway, as you cannot buy the pin contacts to put on the end of the >>wires you're planning on cutting. > > > Which end of the CD cable are you referring to: the radio side or the > changer side? > > I have bought what I believe are the two contacts for the radio side - > the round 2.5 mm^2 round AMP contacts and the small ELO AMP dual row > header contacts -- from my dealer, both with wires and without. I > have also bought an unwired DIN equivalent of the 2.5 mm^2 contacts. > > Are you guys looking for and discussing something else? > > -John > '96 318is > ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 21:02:54 +0100 (CET) From: John Firestone <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: BMW UUC digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: How to Remove Wires from Electrical Connectors? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Wed, 8 Feb 2006, KMS- Brett Anderson wrote: > I've not been able to purchase any pin contacts for late (post E30) > cars without the wire attached. > > John, could you forward any part numbers you might have for the > wireless versions? Off and on, I can buy the bare, 2.5 mm^2, round AMP contacts under part numbers we have used in the past. When there are no more in the warehouse, BMW (in Germany) silently substitutes a more expensive, wired version. The last time I was ordering contacts, I was able to get the 2.5/0.5-1.0 mm round male and female contacts under 61 13 1 376 191 and .. .. 1 376 202, respectively. I am pretty sure I told my parts guy to disallow substitutes. A search for these part numbers at www.realoem.com shows pages with the part numbers for other wire ranges. I found the small ELO AMP header female contacts under part number 61 13 1 383 776. It crimps very nicely to 0.35 and 0.5 mm^2 wires with one of the standard Knipex dies. This contact was something of a pain to get. My parts guy eventually ordered a couple hundred directly from one of the main warehouse (I think it was Dingolfing) as the Hannover distribution center kept sending us the .. .. 0 005 197 part with wires. I saved the original, yellow, order tracking tag. I will see if my dealer can decode it. I hope that helps! -John '96 318is ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Feb 2006 13:30:02 -0800 From: Kazuto Okayasu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: BMW UUC digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: How to Remove Wires from Electrical Connectors? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 11:10 AM 2/8/2006, John Firestone wrote: Hi John! >On Mon, 6 Feb 2006, KMS- Brett Anderson wrote: > > > Are you talking about a factory BMW connector? > > > > If so, there is a lock in the plastic connector that must be undone, > > then there is a special tool to remove the pins on some, or others the > > pins will just slide out once the lock is released. > > > > Also, if you're talking about a factory connector, you're wasting your > > time anyway, as you cannot buy the pin contacts to put on the end of the > > wires you're planning on cutting. > >Which end of the CD cable are you referring to: the radio side or the >changer side? The original poster was asking about the radio end of the changer subharness. >I have bought what I believe are the two contacts for the radio side - >the round 2.5 mm^2 round AMP contacts and the small ELO AMP dual row >header contacts -- from my dealer, both with wires and without. I >have also bought an unwired DIN equivalent of the 2.5 mm^2 contacts. The older round ones are interesting. They are _almost_ like the generic AMP parts, but the females have an extra sleeve inside. I hacked some interesting stuff together when I installed the stereo in my M6. The newer square header-type ones I haven't been able to find so far as a generic AMP or Siemens (they are similar but not interchangeable) part, and I haven't found any PNs that don't specify wire size in the ETK, so they all come with wires pre-attached. One of the few exceptions have been the internal spade-style contacts inside the ground tab comb connectors. I'm not nearly the car hacker that John is, though so far I've managed to do just about all my projects cut, and scotchlock-free. >Are you guys looking for and discussing something else? > >-John >'96 318is >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com Kazuto Okayasu Manager, Desktop Support Services Administrative Computing Services, University of California, Irvine [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 08 Feb 2006 11:49:30 -0800 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "[uucdigest]" <[email protected]>, "bmw- >> bmw digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: finely adjustable fuel pressure regulator Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Part of trying to dial in the engine leads me to need a more finely adjustable FPR than the current Bosch #001 I'm using. Two pounds pressure change or less per turn is what I'm looking for. Anyone have hands on experience with one they can recommend? tia, Barry ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 13:58:35 -0800 (PST) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: <E36> rhetorical question? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Perhaps a rhetorical question, but I'd like to confirm: Bad front upper strut mounts would cause increased harshness, correct? I'm thinking my harshness on my shocks is in part due to bad upper mounts. I bought the car with the Bilsteins and HR oe sport springs on it with no reinforcement plates, and I don't seem to recall seeing replacement mounts on the receipts I have from the _4_ POs. Brian 95 M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 18:55:58 -0600 From: "Paul Garnier" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Brian Ruiz'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "'UUC Digest'" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E36> rhetorical question? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Brian, Probably as rubber losses it's elasticity over time. Gruppe, I didn't know H&R manufactured the Original Equipment Springs that BMW installed on our M3's at the factory!! Nice! I didn't know BMW held H&R in such high regard.. Greetz! Paul Garnier -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brian Ruiz Sent: Wednesday, February 08, 2006 3:59 PM To: UUC Digest Subject: [UUC] <E36> rhetorical question? Perhaps a rhetorical question, but I'd like to confirm: Bad front upper strut mounts would cause increased harshness, correct? I'm thinking my harshness on my shocks is in part due to bad upper mounts. I bought the car with the Bilsteins and HR oe sport springs on it with no reinforcement plates, and I don't seem to recall seeing replacement mounts on the receipts I have from the _4_ POs. Brian 95 M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 8 Feb 2006 22:57:37 -0500 From: "Dennis Liu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "BMW List" <[email protected]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: "Polizei" E39 M5... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> http://www.gumball144.com/polizeim5.html Vty, --Dennis ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
