The BMW UUC Digest Volume 3 : Issue 77 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: <E36 M3> removing drive axles Re: <E36 M3> removing drive axles Re: <E36 M3> removing drive axles <E30> Exxon Valdez goes on Re: <E30> Exxon Valdez goes on carfax request please! Re: [bimmerheads] Choice of oil Re: [bimmerheads] Choice of oil Re: [bimmerheads] Choice of oil Re: [bimmerheads] Choice of oil WTB:S52 short block Good GOD! Re: Good GOD! Re: Good GOD! Re: Good GOD!
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 16:08:15 -0800 (PST) From: Matt Weimer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36 M3> removing drive axles Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Marco, As you know, this is not necessarily required to replace bushings. I was thinking of removing the entire rear trailing arm and other parts to allow bushing replacement using a large hydraulic press. I can easily make dies for the different bushings, saving money on factory tools. I also thought about replacing wheel bearings at the same time. I may re-evaluate this and buy/borrow/rent some of the tools to do the bushings in the car. Matt ---------------------------------------------- From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E36 M3> removing drive axles just curious - what bushing requires removal of the half shafts from the wheel flange? Marco __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 21:14:36 -0800 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E36 M3> removing drive axles Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Just wanted to make sure a)you knew it wasn't necessary b)or that there was some bushing I hadn't noticed! Be careful on the subframe using a press. I've seen two subframes damaged when a die wasn't aligned "just right". If you don't mind the increased NVH don't go with stock. good luck. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Matt Weimer Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 4:08 PM To: [email protected] Subject: Re: [UUC] <E36 M3> removing drive axles Marco, As you know, this is not necessarily required to replace bushings. I was thinking of removing the entire rear trailing arm and other parts to allow bushing replacement using a large hydraulic press. I can easily make dies for the different bushings, saving money on factory tools. I also thought about replacing wheel bearings at the same time. I may re-evaluate this and buy/borrow/rent some of the tools to do the bushings in the car. Matt ---------------------------------------------- From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E36 M3> removing drive axles just curious - what bushing requires removal of the half shafts from the wheel flange? Marco __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 00:49:01 +0000 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: "Matt Weimer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36 M3> removing drive axles Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> After having pulled the diff and subframe and installed all urethane, the effort is worth it. Don't waste time making custom jigs and whatever, the improvement with urethane over rubber bushings more than justifies the extra labor. Old bushing removal can be accomplished with vigorous torching of the old rubber bushings so they can be hammered out after the rubber has half melted. Do this _Outside as the smell of melting smouldering rubber is putred. Also with the subframe and diff out, replace the diff cover gasket, give the subframe and floor a good cleaning, and if motivated, give the subframe a few sprays of Krylon. there's bound to be some places where the original paint is scraped off or seams where a touch of rust has formed. Barry > -----Original Message----- > From: Matt Weimer [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 12:08 AM > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [UUC] <E36 M3> removing drive axles > > Marco, > > As you know, this is not necessarily required to > replace bushings. I was thinking of removing the > entire rear trailing arm and other parts to allow > bushing replacement using a large hydraulic press. I > can easily make dies for the different bushings, > saving money on factory tools. I also thought about > replacing wheel bearings at the same time. > > I may re-evaluate this and buy/borrow/rent some of the > tools to do the bushings in the car. > > Matt > > ---------------------------------------------- > From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[email protected]> > Subject: Re: <E36 M3> removing drive axles > > just curious - what bushing requires removal of the > half shafts from > the > wheel flange? > > Marco > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 18:39:45 -0600 From: "Paul Craven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: <E30> Exxon Valdez goes on Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi all, I am still fighting an oil leak on my 125 kmile 93 325ic. I cleaned up the bottom of the engine a bit and discovered just about nothing except that the oil is mostly on the passenger side of my LHD (US) car. The oil pressure switch seems dry.I also determined that the engine block is shiny all the way up to the head on the paasenger side. Is this indicative of a head gasket issue? Is this a commoen E30 issue? I 'll do further research on the car as it warms up in KS, but wondered what the collective thought of this. Many, many thanks, Paul Craven 1993 325ic 1999 528it ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 19:04:42 -0800 (PST) From: Richard Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Paul Craven <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [email protected] Subject: Re: <E30> Exxon Valdez goes on Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> -- Paul Craven <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hi all, > I am still fighting an oil leak on my 125 kmile 93 325ic. I cleaned up the > bottom of the engine > a bit and discovered just about nothing except that the oil is mostly on the > passenger side of > my LHD (US) car. The oil pressure switch seems dry.I also determined that > the engine block is > shiny all the way up to the head on the paasenger side. Is this indicative > of a head gasket > issue? Is this a commoen E30 issue? I 'll do further research on the car as > it warms up in KS, > but wondered what the collective thought of this. Have you looked closely at the thermostat gasket for the oil filter housing (held in by a metal type C clip) or the rubber o-rings on the oil filter housing banjo bolt? Regards, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 20:40:05 -0800 (PST) From: Paul T <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: carfax request please! Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> looking into a 02 E46, would appreciate it if someone could run a carfax on: WBAEV53472KM21401 please email privately. thanks!! Paul [EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 24 Feb 2006 21:52:27 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [bimmerheads] Choice of oil Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Harvey, as I mentioned before, the viscosity has to be correct for the ambient air temperature. The info below is from the oil viscosity chart in the Bentley E34 manual. The M50 and M52 engines are largely the same with different displacements. I can't swear that the info is the same for your E39, so check to see if there is a similar chart in your owner's manual. For your proposed 5W-30 oil, the 5W- is good down to -40 deg f. As much as I complain about how cold it gets in San Ramon in the winter, I've never seen anything below +29 deg f. For the upper end there is some seemingly conflicting info which I'll simply report and leave for you to figure out. 10W-30 is good up to +40 deg f. 10W-40 is good up to +50 deg f. 10W-50 is good up to +70 deg f. 15W-40 is good up to +85-ish deg f. 15W-50 is good up to +105-ish deg f. 20W-50 is good up to 120+ deg f. IIRC, you're in San Jose or thereabouts. I would think 15W-50 would meet your needs. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA ----- Original Message ----- >From: "Brant" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[email protected]>; "'[EMAIL PROTECTED]'" ><[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 5:07 PM >Subject: RE: [bimmerheads] Choice of oil > >That is lighter than what BMW used to recommend for Bay Area summer >temperatures. But I'm out of date. Perhaps their CAFÉ obligations have >resulted in new, lower-vis recommendations. > >Brant > > >-----Original Message----- >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On >Behalf Of Harvey Chao >Sent: Friday, February 24, 2006 2:38 PM >To: Bay Area Bimmerheads; [email protected]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: [bimmerheads] Choice of oil > >Anybody see anything wrong with Mobile 1 5W-30 in the SF Bay area if >changed every 6 months (and replace filter) in a 2000 528i driven >only 3-4K miles /year? > >Harvey ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 09:20:39 -0800 (PST) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Scott & Charlotte Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [email protected] Subject: Re: [bimmerheads] Choice of oil Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- Scott & Charlotte Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > For the upper end there is some seemingly conflicting info which I'll > simply report and leave for you to figure out. > > 10W-30 is good up to +40 deg f. > 10W-40 is good up to +50 deg f. > 10W-50 is good up to +70 deg f. > 15W-40 is good up to +85-ish deg f. > 15W-50 is good up to +105-ish deg f. > 20W-50 is good up to 120+ deg f. Smiller, that chart is bunk these days of synth oil and body piercings. 10W40 good for up to +50 degree weather, AYFKM?? -Carlos. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 10:20:52 -0800 From: Mark Gold <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: Scott & Charlotte Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [email protected] Subject: Re: [bimmerheads] Choice of oil Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> So in Sacramento where it hits 105 or so in the summer I should be running 15W-50 in my '91 318ic? Since I'm running Castrol GTX, I'm pretty sure they don't have that weight in dino oil (all though I may be wrong). I currently run 10w-40. Sincerely, Mark Gold Sacramento Chapter BMWCCA [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Feb 25, 2006, at 9:20 AM, Carlos Lopez wrote: > --- Scott & Charlotte Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> For the upper end there is some seemingly conflicting info which I'll >> simply report and leave for you to figure out. >> >> 10W-30 is good up to +40 deg f. >> 10W-40 is good up to +50 deg f. >> 10W-50 is good up to +70 deg f. >> 15W-40 is good up to +85-ish deg f. >> 15W-50 is good up to +105-ish deg f. >> 20W-50 is good up to 120+ deg f. > > Smiller, that chart is bunk these days of synth oil and body > piercings. > 10W40 good for up to +50 degree weather, AYFKM?? > > -Carlos. > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/ > [email protected] > > > ______________________________________________________________________ > ____ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the > BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 14:01:03 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Carlos Lopez" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [bimmerheads] Choice of oil Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Agree. For a "real ///M" engine Use 0W-40 when you have very cold starts, and 15W-50 when its warm. For normal engines, the 0W-40 is great all year long. If you're cheap 15W-40 diesel oil is pretty good for the money, but if you burn lots of it, the catalysts will get compromised over time. In the old days, a low W number meant short molecules and lots of VI improver. Not so these days. Gary Derian > --- Scott & Charlotte Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> For the upper end there is some seemingly conflicting info which I'll >> simply report and leave for you to figure out. >> >> 10W-30 is good up to +40 deg f. >> 10W-40 is good up to +50 deg f. >> 10W-50 is good up to +70 deg f. >> 15W-40 is good up to +85-ish deg f. >> 15W-50 is good up to +105-ish deg f. >> 20W-50 is good up to 120+ deg f. > > Smiller, that chart is bunk these days of synth oil and body piercings. > 10W40 good for up to +50 degree weather, AYFKM?? > > -Carlos. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 00:50:09 -0500 From: Mo Karamat <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: WTB:S52 short block Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Dear All, Hello. I am looking for a S52 short block. Please E-mail me directly if you have one for sale. Thx Mo [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 00:12:41 -0800 (PST) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Good GOD! Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Not much info, but pretty dang creeeeezzay! http://www.mwerks.com/artman/publish/features/article_938.shtml I want to drive it! Also, don't know if you all have heard, but the Alpina B7 is on its way across the pond. :) A friend of mine at my dealer showed me the internal BMW memo. Also pretty dang crazy for a luxo-barge. Stop here if you don't want to spoil it... the advent of a production BMW with a blower... not sure whether to squeal in delight or moan in pity for the beginning of the end of BMW NA... Naturally Aspirated, that is. ;) I just found this tonight about it: http://www.mwerks.com/artman/publish/bmw_news/article_971.shtml Enjoy! Brian 95 M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 10:17:04 -0800 From: Mark Gold <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Good GOD! Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> That is a pretty mean looking E30 and a fairly clean install. Edge Motorworks in Dublin shoehorned a 4.4 into an E36 M3 but their motor sits slightly tilted in the engine bay. I wonder how much fab work was required to make the motor sit correctly in the E30. Sincerely, Mark Gold Sacramento Chapter BMWCCA On Feb 25, 2006, at 12:12 AM, Brian Ruiz wrote: > Not much info, but pretty dang creeeeezzay! > > http://www.mwerks.com/artman/publish/features/article_938.shtml > > I want to drive it! > > Also, don't know if you all have heard, but the Alpina > B7 is on its way across the pond. :) A friend of mine > at my dealer showed me the internal BMW memo. Also > pretty dang crazy for a luxo-barge. Stop here if you > don't want to spoil it... > > the advent of a production BMW with a blower... not > sure whether to squeal in delight or moan in pity for > the beginning of the end of BMW NA... Naturally > Aspirated, that is. ;) > > I just found this tonight about it: > http://www.mwerks.com/artman/publish/bmw_news/article_971.shtml > > Enjoy! > Brian > 95 M3 > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/ > [email protected] > > > ______________________________________________________________________ > ____ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the > BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 14:03:28 -0500 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mark Gold" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Good GOD! Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> The V-8 and the E30 are set for a front sump. The E36 has a rear sump making it more difficult to fit a front sump V-8. E60s have a rear sump now. Gary Derian > That is a pretty mean looking E30 and a fairly clean install. Edge > Motorworks in Dublin shoehorned a 4.4 into an E36 M3 but their motor sits > slightly tilted in the engine bay. I wonder how much fab work was > required to make the motor sit correctly in the E30. > > > Sincerely, > > Mark Gold > Sacramento Chapter BMWCCA > > > > On Feb 25, 2006, at 12:12 AM, Brian Ruiz wrote: > >> Not much info, but pretty dang creeeeezzay! >> >> http://www.mwerks.com/artman/publish/features/article_938.shtml >> >> I want to drive it! >> >> Also, don't know if you all have heard, but the Alpina >> B7 is on its way across the pond. :) A friend of mine >> at my dealer showed me the internal BMW memo. Also >> pretty dang crazy for a luxo-barge. Stop here if you >> don't want to spoil it... >> >> the advent of a production BMW with a blower... not >> sure whether to squeal in delight or moan in pity for >> the beginning of the end of BMW NA... Naturally >> Aspirated, that is. ;) >> >> I just found this tonight about it: >> http://www.mwerks.com/artman/publish/bmw_news/article_971.shtml ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Feb 2006 08:12:55 -0500 From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Good GOD! Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > the advent of a production BMW with a blower... not > sure whether to squeal in delight or moan in pity for > the beginning of the end of BMW NA... Naturally > Aspirated, that is. ;) BMW History 101 Turbocharging has been part of BMW's heritage for many years, just not greatly represented in the USA. - Turbo diesel models (including recent twin-turbo torque-monsters) have been available almost continuously in Europe for about 20 years. - 2002 Turbos in good shape are quite collectible. - The mid 1980's 524td turbo diesel was a US model and is still coveted for it's high mpg and E28 chassis reliability. - 745i turbo gas 3.2/3.4l was gray-market imported quite often in the early/mid 1980s. - Turbo diesels are currently available in Euro-spec 3er, 5er, and 7er. The turbodiesel V8 exceeds the E39 M5's torque output, and the twin-turbo I6 is darn close. - One of BMW Motorsport's first really big projects was a supercar called the "Turbo Car" designed to be powered by a turbocharged 4-cylinder gas motor. You'd recognize the show car if you saw one... it became the M1, albeit with NA power. Nothing really changes in the automotive world, not even BMW... only which generation of M3 owners are getting mad at the newer generation. ;-) - Rob ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
