The BMW UUC Digest Volume 3 : Issue 80 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: half of odometer display - out.... Re: half of odometer display - out.... Re: half of odometer display - out.... Re: half of odometer display - out.... Re: half of odometer display - out.... Re: half of odometer display - out.... Complete Fluids Overhaul Re: Complete Fluids Overhaul Re: Complete Fluids Overhaul Re: Complete Fluids Overhaul Re: Complete Fluids Overhaul Re: [bimmerheads] RE>Choice of Oil, BMWNA replys Re: [bimmerheads] RE>Choice of Oil, BMWNA replys HID Xenon kits.... Re: Oil
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 17:35:31 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: Re: half of odometer display - out.... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Guys, I have a 1997 e36 323i. Sometimes my odometer display will not light up the bottom half. After a while of driving the lower half of the dsiplay will work. Sometimes not. Normally they all work when its really cold out. In the summer they will not work most of the time. IS there a simply fix for this? Or do I just have to buy a used instrument cluster and transfer my odo chip? Thanks David ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 14:45:02 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: half of odometer display - out.... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Mon, February 27, 2006 2:35 pm, [EMAIL PROTECTED] said: > IS there a simply fix for this? Or do I just have to buy a used > instrument > cluster and transfer my odo chip? Couple of thoughts: - There are 3 or 4 5W bulbs in the back of the cluster that provide general illumination for the whole cluster. They can and do go bad and are easily replaced once the cluster has been removed (fairly easy, and *can* be done with the steering wheel in place - BTDT); - The light from these bulbs gets routed around to the various areas of the cluster via "light pipes" - plastic tubes that act as fiber optics. Sometimes they may not transmit light as well as at other times, usually due to temperature, in my experience (I've had "dark spots" come and go in my cluster). Sounds like you're experiencing the latter situation. I don't know of a fix for that instance. If you wanted, you could replace the 5W bulbs, just in case one is "flaky", but IME they usually work or don't <g>. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 18:13:55 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [email protected] Subject: Re: half of odometer display - out.... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Jim, I should have stated that at first I replace those two(min/small) 5w(?) bulbs that iluminate the odo display/pixels. That didn't do anything for me. I also checked the old bulbs with a VOM to make sure they were still good - they were. They were just dusty and dim. So... I don't think it is the bulbs. I think its a bad cold solder joint somehwere along the circiut board. A local speedo shop wants between â¬100 to â¬150 fix it. A new speedo display runs â¬440 at the local Bmw dealer. A used ones I think are under â¬50. ;) Guess which way I lean towards. I just thought maybe there was some "known" culpirit like a bad capacitor or solder area to point me too. I have tried taking the instrument pannel apart... but it looks like I will have to partially break it apart to gain access to the circiut board. ;( Thanks David 98 323 e36 ................... In a message dated 28.02.2006 00:00:03 Westeuropäische Normalzeit, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: On Mon, February 27, 2006 2:35 pm, [EMAIL PROTECTED] said: > IS there a simply fix for this? Or do I just have to buy a used > instrument > cluster and transfer my odo chip? Couple of thoughts: - There are 3 or 4 5W bulbs in the back of the cluster that provide general illumination for the whole cluster. They can and do go bad and are easily replaced once the cluster has been removed (fairly easy, and *can* be done with the steering wheel in place - BTDT); - The light from these bulbs gets routed around to the various areas of the cluster via "light pipes" - plastic tubes that act as fiber optics. Sometimes they may not transmit light as well as at other times, usually due to temperature, in my experience (I've had "dark spots" come and go in my cluster). Sounds like you're experiencing the latter situation. I don't know of a fix for that instance. If you wanted, you could replace the 5W bulbs, just in case one is "flaky", but IME they usually work or don't <g>. Cheers, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 23:20:55 +0000 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED], [email protected] Subject: Re: half of odometer display - out.... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> had an intermitent one on the back of the OBC, cleaning the contacts helped. May be the cure for your dashboard too. Barry > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 11:13 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [email protected] > Subject: Re: [UUC] half of odometer display - out.... Hi Jim, > I should have stated that at first I replace those two(min/small) 5w(?) > bulbs that iluminate the odo display/pixels. That didn't do anything for me. > I > also checked the old bulbs with a VOM to make sure they were still good - > they > were. They were just dusty and dim. ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 15:25:22 -0800 (PST) From: "Jim Bassett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: half of odometer display - out.... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Mon, February 27, 2006 3:13 pm, [EMAIL PROTECTED] said: > So... I don't think it is the bulbs. I think its a bad cold solder joint > somehwere along the circiut board. I'm not sure how a cold solder joint would affect the light distribution through the light pipes? I guess you could replace the light pipes (if they're available/replacable) and see if that helps.. >but it looks like I will have to partially break it apart to gain access to >the circiut board. ;( I've not opened mine, but I would think removal of the small Torx(?) screws would be sufficient. Might be some locking tabs to be pried open, but I find it unlikely you actually have the break it to open it. <Shrug> YMMV. Jim Bassett ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 23:17:05 +0000 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [email protected] Subject: Re: half of odometer display - out.... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Have you tried replacing the bulbs? Barry > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 10:35 PM > To: [email protected] > Subject: Re: [UUC] half of odometer display - out.... > Hi Guys, > I have a 1997 e36 323i. Sometimes my odometer display will not light up the > bottom half. After a while of driving the lower half of the dsiplay will > work. > Sometimes not. Normally they all work when its really cold out. In the summer > they will not work most of the time. > IS there a simply fix for this? Or do I just have to buy a used instrument > cluster and transfer my odo chip? > Thanks David ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 17:26:28 -0500 From: David Hwang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Complete Fluids Overhaul Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Not being a believer (yet?) of BMW's "lifetime fill" claim on their fluids, I'm of the mindset of overhauling all of the fluids in my 3 year old E39 M5 with 7,000 miles. What specific fluids should I get changed and what is the recommended replacement fluid? Any special techniques or products that I should request? Finally, any recommendations for the metropolitan DC area of places to get this work done? I'll inquire at the dealer, but I'm going to assume they are going to be ridiculously expensive.... Fluids that I can think of that can be changed: Engine Oil (duh) Engine Coolant (Anti-freeze) Brake Fluid (including flushing out ABS system) Manual Transmission Fluid (I've heard that this should be "powerflushed" because a simple drain can leave a significant amount of old fluid behind?) Rear Differential Fluid Power Steering Fluid Am I missing anything? Are there any other joints in the suspension that need to be lubed or are they all sealed? Thanks for helping me keep my BMW fit for the long haul.... David ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 16:59:15 -0800 (PST) From: Richard Dorffer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [email protected] Subject: Re: Complete Fluids Overhaul Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- David Hwang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Not being a believer (yet?) of BMW's "lifetime fill" claim on their > fluids, I'm of the mindset of overhauling all of the fluids in my 3 year > old E39 M5 with 7,000 miles. Wow, now there is two ends of the extreme. > What specific fluids should I get changed and what is the recommended > replacement fluid? Any special techniques or products that I should > request? Well, I would specify certain fluids if you have an independent do the work. > Finally, any recommendations for the metropolitan DC area of places to > get this work done? I'll inquire at the dealer, but I'm going to assume > they are going to be ridiculously expensive.... If expense is a concern, I wouldn't necessarily do all that you are suggesting (see comments below). > Fluids that I can think of that can be changed: > > Engine Oil (duh) Seems reasonable, I don't believe BMW considers this one "life-time" yet though... > Engine Coolant (Anti-freeze) Well, it would be certainly early to replace it based on mileage but on age, so be it. > Brake Fluid (including flushing out ABS system) Again, probably pretty conservative on a new vehicle with only 7,000 miles as the system is probably pretty tight and no likely absorbing a lot of moisture. > Manual Transmission Fluid (I've heard that this should be "powerflushed" > because a simple drain can leave a significant amount of old fluid behind?) I haven't heard about a "power flush" with a manual transmission, maybe you are thinking about an automatic transmission (unless I am not aware of how an E39 M5 transmission differs?). I believe a manual transmission fluid change in a three year old car with 7,000 miles that has a quality synthetic fluid (one the manufacturer felt was a "life-time" fill) is definitely premature. > Rear Differential Fluid Again, I believe a differential fluid change in a three year old car with 7,000 miles that has a quality synthetic fluid (one the manufacturer felt was a "life-time" fill) is definitely premature. > Power Steering Fluid Not necessary. Regards, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 17:40:41 -0800 From: Bob Sutterfield <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Complete Fluids Overhaul Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Richard Dorffer wrote: > David Hwang wrote: > > ...my 3 year old E39 M5 with 7,000 miles... > > Brake Fluid (including flushing out ABS system) > > pretty conservative on a new vehicle with only 7,000 miles > as the system is probably pretty tight and no likely absorbing > a lot of moisture. The manufacturers and conventional wisdom specify a 2 year change interval for a car under ordinary street use. When I'm tracking my car a lot (and why would anyone have a ///M car if he isn't tracking it?) I flush my brake fluid in the winter, and bleed a bit before every school. I'm surprised the tech inspectors have let him go 3 years without fresh brake fluid! -- Bob Sutterfield '86 E30 325e bronzitbeige-met '91 E30 318iS alpinweiß '83 E21 320i opalgrün-met (RIP, parting out) '93 T4 EV MV Weekender Arktisches Weiß BMWCCA #169277 GGC/RMC ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 22:20:14 -0500 From: "Rich Dorffer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Bob Sutterfield" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Complete Fluids Overhaul Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > The manufacturers and conventional wisdom specify a 2 year change interval > for a car under ordinary street use. When I'm tracking my car a lot (and > why would anyone have a ///M car if he isn't tracking it?) I > flush my brake > fluid in the winter, and bleed a bit before every school. I'm > surprised the > tech inspectors have let him go 3 years without fresh brake fluid! Based on David's original post, there was no mention of tracking his M5 and I didn't exactly infer that based on his post. I would be willing to bet "garage queen" is more likely than "track car". I know the BMW recommended brake flush, but not all manufacturers make the same recommendation. Matter of fact, there are plenty of manufacturers that never stipulate a brake fluid flush. So, apparently some manufacturers lack wisdom, conventional or not. :-) I doubt that a three year old, 7,000 mile M5 that has had a pretty easy life is pushing the need for a brake fluid flush but it can't hurt. I truly don't believe that the manual transmission or the differential need a flush. Regards, Rich ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 17:32:29 -0800 From: Bob Sutterfield <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Complete Fluids Overhaul Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> David Hwang wrote: > Brake Fluid (including flushing out ABS system) ...and the clutch master and slave too. On other BMWs (I don't know about yours) the clutch circuit shares the reservoir with the brake circuits. > Am I missing anything? Are there any other joints in > the suspension that need to be lubed or are they all sealed? They're not really fluids, but you should check the boots on all the ball joints and CV joints, to be sure they're still healthy and holding in their various allotments of grease. On a car older than 3 years, I'd go on a rubber hunt too. Hoses, bushings, hydraulic lines (power steering and brakes and clutch), giubo, mounts, etc. -- Bob Sutterfield '86 E30 325e bronzitbeige-met '91 E30 318iS alpinweiß '83 E21 320i opalgrün-met (RIP, parting out) '93 T4 EV MV Weekender Arktisches Weiß BMWCCA #169277 GGC/RMC ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 19:37:32 -0800 From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]> Subject: Re: [bimmerheads] RE>Choice of Oil, BMWNA replys Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Harvey,what a novel approach! Shows you that you shouldn't listen to everything you get from jokers on e-mail lists. Scott "another joker on an e-mail list" Miller GGC BMW CCA ----- Original Message ----- From: "Harvey Chao" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Bay Area Bimmerheads" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[email protected]>; "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 4:39 PM Subject: [bimmerheads] RE>Choice of Oil, BMWNA replys > So I finally thought to ask BMW NA and got this reply: > > Dear Mr. Chao: > > Thank you for contacting BMW of North America, LLC regarding oil for > your 2008 528i. We appreciate your enthusiasm for our vehicles and > are happy to answer your question. > > BMW recommends BMW High Performance Synthetic engine oil, Castrol > Synthetic, Mobil 1 Synthetic, and Valvoline High Performance > Synthetic. The engine oil you choose should have a weight of SAE 5W-30. > > If you have any further questions, please respond to this e-mail or > contact the Customer Relations and Services Department at > 1-800-831-1117, Monday through Friday from 9:00 A.M. to 9:00 P.M., > Eastern Standard Time. Again, thank you for contacting BMW. > > Sincerely, > > Tricia Young > Customer Relations and Services > Representative ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2006 20:35:39 -0800 From: test <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Scott & Charlotte Miller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: [email protected], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [bimmerheads] RE>Choice of Oil, BMWNA replys Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> An even more novel approach might be to read the owners manual, but then it probably would be hard to find one for a 2008 528i unless I slept through 2 model years. Michael (no joke--I could have) Lesser GGC BMWCCA Oops, I forgot the space. On Feb 27, 2006, at 7:37 PM, Scott & Charlotte Miller wrote: > Harvey,what a novel approach! Shows you that you shouldn't listen to > everything you get from jokers on e-mail lists. > > Scott "another joker on an e-mail list" Miller > GGC BMW CCA > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Harvey Chao" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "Bay Area Bimmerheads" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; > <[email protected]>; "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" > <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Monday, February 27, 2006 4:39 PM > Subject: [bimmerheads] RE>Choice of Oil, BMWNA replys > > >> So I finally thought to ask BMW NA and got this reply: >> >> Dear Mr. Chao: >> >> Thank you for contacting BMW of North America, LLC regarding oil for >> your 2008 528i. We appreciate your enthusiasm for our vehicles and >> are happy to answer your question. >> >> BMW recommends BMW High Performance Synthetic engine oil, Castrol >> Synthetic, Mobil 1 Synthetic, and Valvoline High Performance >> Synthetic. The engine oil you choose should have a weight of SAE > 5W-30. >> >> If you have any further questions, please respond to this e-mail or >> contact the Customer Relations and Services Department at >> 1-800-831-1117, Monday through Friday from 9:00 A.M. to 9:00 P.M., >> Eastern Standard Time. Again, thank you for contacting BMW. >> >> Sincerely, >> >> Tricia Young >> Customer Relations and Services >> Representative > > > > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > _______________________________________________________________________ > ___ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW > CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 04:59:07 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: HID Xenon kits.... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Guys, I am looking to retrofit a HID DS2 Xenon kit to my e36 projector low beams. I have euro lights now with H7 bulbs. Does anyone know a good source to buy these ballast from? I have been looking on ebay. Most of the used part kits seem to sellfor about $200 - $300 for all the needed parts: Ballasts, DS2 bulbs, H7 adpators, and ignitors and wiring harness. I have seen quite a few "new" kits, but they seem kind of cheap-ly made to me. Either made in Japan or China. Thats not for me. I want to buy some used Hella/Valeo/Seimens units. Something like the 3rd Gen HID Hella units. From the dealer these parts are insanely priced. So... where does everyone buy these things from? Ebay? ??? Thanks David ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 09:45:03 -0800 (PST) From: david kroth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Oil Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > There are tons of oil choices out there that meet > BMW's LL-98 and LL-01 specs. A little Googling reveals: LL-98 Castrol Syntec 5W40 LL-98 Motul 8100 X-Cess 5W40 LL-01 Castrol Syntec 0W30 LL-01 Mobil 1 0W-40 LL-01 ELF EXCELLIUM XLL 5W40 LL-01 Motul Secific BMW LL-01 5W30 LL-04 Castrol SLX LL04 0W-30 LL-04 Amsoil European Car Formula 5W40 The Valvoline website says Valvoline synthetic, "Meets or exceeds the engine performance requirements for BMW" but doesn't specifically call out the LL-98 or LL-01 spec. Pennzoil.com offers 5W-40 Euro and 5W-30 Euro that apparently meet European ACEA standards but there is no mention of BMW nor LL-** specs. David Kroth [EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! 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