The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 3 : Issue 65 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: <misc> TSBs
  Re: Dealer Feedback
  <E36> GC RSM - do I need anything else
  <E36> Heater hoses
  Re: <E36> Heater hoses
  <e36> Thermostat housing gasket
  parts advice.....  
  Re: parts advice.....
  Alternator Cooling Duct filters E34 M5
  Re: Alternator Cooling Duct filters E34 M5
  Re: parts advice.....
  Clutch locking up after clutch upgrade (long)
  Re: 1992 325is: track car/parts car ???
  Re: E30 - Failed Emissions
  Re: E30 - Failed Emissions

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Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 00:36:57 -0800
From: Herman Chan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: <misc> TSBs
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> Good thing I have a Windows PC at work, otherwise I wouldn't be able
> to use the ETK, or the bmwtechinfo.com website.  BMW needs to
> consider using technology that is not OS specific (Java or PDF for
> example).

Both the ETK and TIS work fine with Virtual PC, albeit a bit more  
slowly.

Barring that, a cheaper (or even free) solution is to pick up a  
discarded PC from a garage sale or craigslist to dedicate to running  
the BMW databases.  They don't require much in the way of computing  
power, so even a P-II running Windows 9x is sufficient.  I have such  
a PC that lives in the basement for just that purpose.

With the realoem.com site, having the ETK is largely irrelevant for  
casual users anyway, though the site does lack some of the more  
esoteric functions.

The bmwtechninfo site does seem to be based on PDFs and Java, but  
still has strict user agent restrictions due to Active X and the  
passthough diagnostic connection requirements.  Understandable, given  
its narrow audience and specific function.  If it was a general  
public website, not adhering to web standards would be worthy of  
criticism.

Frankly, the factory info has always been of limited use to the  
casual wrench anyway, and the charge for access is a ripoff compared  
to what BMW used to charge for similar information when they used to  
distribute it on fiche, if all one is looking for is a copy of a TSB,  
specfic values or repair procedures.

Herman

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 11:23:41 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: Dealer Feedback
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


No the worst part is that taxpayer money was wasted on a postion called
"performance art theater manager".

-Kevin
Looking for an '06 Fastarossa.



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 14:30:39 -0500
From: Mo Karamat <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: <E36> GC RSM - do I need anything else
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Kevin,

        Hello.  Nope, all you need are the GC RSM's.  They will bolt right up.
They already have the "z3" type reingforcements build into them.  the other
nice thing is that they bolt from underneath the car.  If you need to take
the shocks off, you no longer need to remove the trunk carpeting..  I have
them on both my e30 and e36's.

Good luck.
Mo
91 325IX
95 M3 (IP car in progress)
98 M3/4

 -----------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 20:34:52 -0600 (CST)
From: "Kevin Jay (Mr.Fabulous)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: <E36> GC RSM - do I need anything else
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


Installed Meyle RSMs on my E36 awhile back (while replacing a Bilstein that
had failed) based on a recommendation from somebody on the list.  Right one
just popped through while driving down the street this afternoon (not far
from
home, wow did I get lucky there).  So much for Meyle... thanks for nothing.

Calling GC in the morning to have their RSMs sent overnight.  Question for
the
gruppe:  do I need anything from the stock rear shock assembly to use a GC
RSM (i.e., plates or washers), or do I just bolt the RSM up to the shock and
stick it on the car (i.e., do I need a dealer for parts to finish the job).

- Kevin Jay
  '96 328is, red/tan, 95K, usual H&R/Bilstein setup, a few M3 parts too
  '02 X5 3.0, white/tan, 39K, bone stock



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 14:14:52 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Subject: <E36> Heater hoses
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


Does the coolant pipe (per realoem #11531433059) need replacement as a PM
item on the E36? What about the o-ring on the connection to the block?
Anyone have experience with brand CRP for heater hoses? Good brand?

Tanks,
-Kevin



 ---------------------------------------------------------------- 
 This  e-mail  communication is confidential and is intended only 
 for  the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have 
 been  specifically  authorized to receive it. If you are not the 
 intended  recipient,  please  do not read, copy, use or disclose 
 the  contents of this communication to others. Please notify the 
 sender  that  you have received this e-mail in error by replying 
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 16:46:14 -0600
From: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Re: <E36> Heater hoses
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> Does the coolant pipe (per realoem #11531433059) need replacement as a PM
> item on the E36? What about the o-ring on the connection to the block?
> Anyone have experience with brand CRP for heater hoses? Good brand?

I replaced it on mine, I don't know if it needs it because the one I
took off was in pretty good shape.  I bought mine from Bimmerworld, I
don't know what brand it is.

Regards

--
Jamie Howton
2000 M5
1995 M3
Hampshire, IL


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 14:32:17 -0800
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Subject: <e36> Thermostat housing gasket
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


On the MTK aluminum thermostat gasket ,which I ordered from Brett by the
way, what is the function of the nubs in the orange sealing trapazoidal
ring?
They actually push the seal away from the walls of the channel into which
it sits. Why would this be the case?


-Kevin



 ---------------------------------------------------------------- 
 This  e-mail  communication is confidential and is intended only 
 for  the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have 
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 the  contents of this communication to others. Please notify the 
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 18:19:43 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Subject: parts advice.....  
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hello Guys,

I am new to this list.  I am an American living in Germany. I have an APO so 
mail order parts are no problem. 

I would like to know where is a good parts source to buy from. Like is there 
ANY Bmw dealer in the US that has decent prices with GREAT service? And where 
should I go for OEM like parts? 

Also is there an FAQ for this list so I do not ask common Questions? 

And last-ly....  Is there anything I should replace as a preventive 
maintence(PM) iteim on a six cylider 2.5L e36?  Is there a DME relay or a Crank 
sensor 
that typically fail at high miles? 

Thanks
David Jalali
99 323i (e36) German spec. 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 19:54:59 -0600
From: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Re: parts advice.....
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Hi David,

> I would like to know where is a good parts source to buy from. Like is there
> ANY Bmw dealer in the US that has decent prices with GREAT service? And
> where
> should I go for OEM like parts?

Since it's a German model you might want to buy parts from a German
dealer, that way there's no issue with non-US parts if there are any
on your car.  To look up part numbers use:

http://www.realoem.com

> And last-ly....  Is there anything I should replace as a preventive
> maintence(PM) iteim on a six cylider 2.5L e36?

That largeley depends upon what kind of maintenance schedule it's had
to this point and how many miles are on it now.  Cooling system items
on E36s should be maintained between 60 and 100K miles.  I might
suggest  a radiator, coolant pump, thermostat and aluminum housing
replacement if you don't know it's been done within the last 60K
miles.  Note, I am quoting miles not KM.

If it's a manual transmission, the tranny fluid should be changed
every 30-50K miles although BMW differs in opinion on this at least in
the US where transmissions are "lifetime fill".  Likewise the
differential fluid.  Engine oil, filters, cabin microfilter are all
fair game too.

Have fun.

--
Jamie Howton
2000 M5
1995 M3
Hampshire, IL


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 15:04:11 -0800 (PST)
From: kjk <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Alternator Cooling Duct filters E34 M5
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I have had a couple of alternator failures on my M5
over the years only to discover through another owner
there should be a foam insert or filter in my cooling
duct. This last failure was caused by some plastic
making its way into the alternator and breaking the
wires to the coils. I had a friend handy with
electrical repairs fix it for me but I obviously want
to prevent it from happening again (of course it
happens on the way home from track days..TWICE).  I
checked with realoem.com and can't find it in their
database. Anyone have a part # or is it some universal
part?

Kevin Kelly
'91 M5 

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 20:22:29 -0500
From: KMS- Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: UUC Digest <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: Alternator Cooling Duct filters E34 M5
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I've never seen or heard of such an animal.

Most of the failures I see are from crud blocking the duct.  In most 
cases, you'd actually be better off removing the duct.  It's there to 
cool the alternator during extended 5K rpm runs down the Autobahn.

Brett Anderson
KMS


kjk wrote:
> I have had a couple of alternator failures on my M5
> over the years only to discover through another owner
> there should be a foam insert or filter in my cooling
> duct. This last failure was caused by some plastic
> making its way into the alternator and breaking the
> wires to the coils. I had a friend handy with
> electrical repairs fix it for me but I obviously want
> to prevent it from happening again (of course it
> happens on the way home from track days..TWICE).  I
> checked with realoem.com and can't find it in their
> database. Anyone have a part # or is it some universal
> part?
> 
> Kevin Kelly
> '91 M5 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 18:26:17 -0500
From: "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: parts advice.....
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

www.bimmerparts.com gets god reviews.

How many miles on your E36?  I had 230k miles on mine when I sold it, so I can 
give you a fair sense of what to fix.

for FAQs, I'd look up the Unofficial E36 home page.  It has a lot of 
information about all aspects of the car in gory detail.  probably the best 
reference you can find.  Otherwise...Ask away.  We were all newbies at one 
time.  That's what we're here for.   Actually if you ask your questions in one 
big list, the group will parse it and get you answers to everything in short 
order.

Marc Plante
E36 M3/4 69k
Vienna, VA



------------------------------

Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2006 17:09:40 -0800
From: Kraig <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Clutch locking up after clutch upgrade (long)
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I installed a UUC direct-fit non-sac clutch about a month ago. I used  
copper anti-seize as a lubricant on the shaft splines, pilot bearing,  
and pivot points of the release fork. I did not grease the shaft that  
the throw-out bearing slides on (BMW recommendation).

The car would run great until about an hour after I had been driving  
it, at which point I would need to press in the clutch pedal quite a  
bit further than when it was cold. This goes back to normal once the  
car has a chance to cool off overnight.

Two weeks ago I stopped for a sandwich and when I came back to the  
car I could not disengage the clutch. I pressed the clutch in before  
starting the car and noticed it felt soft on the way down. I towed  
the car home and put it up on blocks and replaced the slave cylinder  
(master slave was recently replaced because of the plastic loop  
breaking when bleeding). I also replaced the hose with a stainless  
steel hose. This did not fix the problem.

While the car was in the air and I was test driving it, I started the  
engine with the clutch in and the car in first. The wheels spun and I  
slowly pressed the brake in. The clutch popped loose and the car went  
back to normal.

The clutch locked up again today. I again noticed the soft pedal  
before I started the car. I managed to fix it in the parking lot by  
again starting the car in first with the clutch in and then pressing  
the brake down. The clutch pedal goes back to normal after this.

I just power bled the clutch slave and I noticed no bubbles.

It seems to me that if the throwout bearing was getting stuck on the  
shaft the clutch would not get soft but instead lock hard. I have not  
noticed any leaked brake fluid after either of these events.

It also seems to me that this is a problem in the hydraulics. Could  
this be a bad master cylinder?

I am running 100% Redline MT-90 to reduce chatter, could this fluid  
be the problem of the increased clutch peddle throw when the car is hot?

Thanks,
Kraig

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 09:01:28 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Paul Garnier" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: 1992 325is: track car/parts car ???
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I agree.  Vanos is best for an automatic transmission as it improves low 
speed torque.  In a race car, you will always be up over 4000 or so.
Gary Derian



> Just bought a car EXACTLY like this one for EXACTLY the same thing. I got
> lucky and paid $500 but I figure it's easily worth $1k. The vanos issue is
> minor if converting to a track car. 


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 08:59:09 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "scott" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: E30 - Failed Emissions
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

High HC is from misfire.  High CO is from rich combustion.
Gary Derian

>
> I have a 1990 325is which failed emissions two weeks ago. It's running 
> rich, with double the amount of legal hydrocarbon output. 


------------------------------

Date: Sun, 12 Feb 2006 08:57:42 -0500
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: E30 - Failed Emissions
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

An oxygen sensor is a Nernst cell that compares oxygen on each side.  If 
there is oxygen on both sides, no output (0.2 to 0.3 v).  If there is oxygen 
on only one side, it outputs high (0.7 to 0.8v).  You must monitor it with 
the engine running.  In normal mode, it dithers between low and high several 
times per second.

Gary Derian
>
> An O2 sensor is a small battery or fuel cell. It uses unburnt hydrocarbons
> and air from outside the exhaust pipe as the fuel and oxidizer. The output
.com 


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