Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting

[bwhitmore via CnC-List]

Strobe is for signaling Mayday.  Same as a flare.


Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/25/18  10:05 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Bill Coleman  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List LED cabin lighting 




I was just looking at those!

I see when you look at the one you bought, one of the Pix has an
X through their $20 more expensive tri color light they sell, as though they
are trashing their own product.  I am just about to replace a tall incandescent
tricolor/anchor, but it has four wires. 

One thing I am curious about, I removed a strobe from my boat
when I bought it, as I thought it was illegal to use a strobe.

When is it kosher to flash a strobe, when you are going down?

 



Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA



 





From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via CnC-List

Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 5:51 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: Chuck S

Subject: Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting





 

Got my replacement LEDs this year from MarineBeam also. Nice
build and packaging. 

I'll be trying out their new two wire Tricolor/anchor/strobe this season and a
steaming/decklight combo too.







On April 25, 2018 at 4:27 PM
Ken Heaton via CnC-List  wrote:



Hi Charlie,



 





I bought the following from Marine Beam and just put them
into the existing lights.  There are two types of retrofit LED's I used,
one type is just Warm White, the other switches between Red and Warm
White.  Absolutely no changes to the existing lights required, no wiring
changes either, just put them in and they work  Very nice light form them
too.





 







23-LED CONSTELLATION MATRIX FOR DOME LIGHTS (UN-DOME-23-WW)





SKU: BA-1156-23X-WW





* Base Type:  Single-Contact (BA15s)







 





https://store.marinebeam.com/23-led-constellation-matrix-for-dome-lights-un-dome-23-ww/





 





 





RED/WHITE "SWITCHABLE" LED FOR DOME LIGHTS
(UN-DOME-15-RWW)







SKU: UN-DOME-15-RWW 





Base Type: Single-Contact (BA15s)







 





https://store.marinebeam.com/red-white-switchable-led-for-dome-lights-un-dome-15-rww/





 





 





We've had them for 4 or 5
years now, absolutely no issues.





 





Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin

S/V Salazar - Can 54955

C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67

Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia 





 





 



On 25 April 2018 at 13:47, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
wrote:



I need to replace all the cabin lights/fixtures on my 36XL/kcb and
am thinking of a white/red combo LED for all 0r some of them. 





 





I mostly race her so the lights don't get used very often. I
want to get something that is relatively inexpensive, will not





rust/tarnish (forget about the traditional brass stuff) and most
importantly will work reliably after long periods of no use.





They probably will be powered by the house 12V--I tried battery
operated (in the housing) and these were a total waste of money





since the batteries corroded faster than they lost their charge!





 





I am talking about forward and aft cabin lights (~ 6 total) which
mount to the ceiling with built in switches for on-off and white/red. 





The housings on these will be exposed--visible so that 'ribbon'
type LEDs are out.





 





In the main cabin, I need 4 that will be mounted under the
'shelves' and thus the housings are not important. I also need 2 that





would be mounted in the forward cabin corners for reading and 2 in
the 'ceiling', all of which would be exposed so the housing is important. 





 





I thought I might go with one source for consistency and maybe
save some money. 





 





I am looking for suggestions from the list before I decide.





 





Thanks in advance, 





 





Charlie Nelson





1995 C 36 XL/kcb





Water Phantom





 





 





 





cenel...@aol.com





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Stus-List C 35 Mk II for sale

[Jean-Guy Nadeau via CnC-List]

Callisto is for sale in Victoria, BC. C 35, Mk II, 1974. Major upgrades done. 
Cutter rigged, VW diesel, watermaker, hard dodger, solar panels, sailing 
dinghy,  much, much more. Asking mid 30's, serious offers will be considered.

Cheers, J-G Nadeau
 Victoria, BC
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Stus-List J-Prop pitch adjustment for CnC 99

[Sergey Klyushin via CnC-List]

Hello,

 

I bought Sail drive style 63mm hub 15-1/2” 2 blade feathering / Variable pitch 
J-Propeller for my CnC 99. Installation was easy following supplied 
instructions.

What is left for me is to find the right / optimal pitch for my boat, that I 
can start from, and adjust the pitch later on the water, if needed (better in 
warm water -).

Can you help me with that, please? 

 

Here are details:

*   The prop that I bought is Sail drive style 63mm hub 15-1/2” 2 blade 
feathering / Variable pitch J-Propeller
*   When I look from the stern, the prop is rotating counterclockwise when 
in forward gear.
*   I have C 99 yacht with Yanmar 3YM20 3-cylinder 20hp Diesel engine and 
SD20 - YM1 sail-drive.
*   I use the boat in lake Ontario about 50-50 for sailing and motoring

I hope you can give me your recommendations to find optimal pitch based on that.

 

Once I will know the right pitch, I will be able to set correct notch based on 
instructions on page  11 of the manual.

 

Thanks in advance for your help,

Sergey

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Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I was just looking at those!

I see when you look at the one you bought, one of the Pix has an X through 
their $20 more expensive tri color light they sell, as though they are trashing 
their own product.  I am just about to replace a tall incandescent 
tricolor/anchor, but it has four wires. 

One thing I am curious about, I removed a strobe from my boat when I bought it, 
as I thought it was illegal to use a strobe.

When is it kosher to flash a strobe, when you are going down?

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Chuck S via 
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 5:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Chuck S
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting

 

Got my replacement LEDs this year from MarineBeam also. Nice build and 
packaging. 
I'll be trying out their new two wire Tricolor/anchor/strobe this season and a 
steaming/decklight combo too.




On April 25, 2018 at 4:27 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
wrote:

Hi Charlie,

 

I bought the following from Marine Beam and just put them into the existing 
lights.  There are two types of retrofit LED's I used, one type is just Warm 
White, the other switches between Red and Warm White.  Absolutely no changes to 
the existing lights required, no wiring changes either, just put them in and 
they work  Very nice light form them too.

 

23-LED CONSTELLATION MATRIX FOR DOME LIGHTS (UN-DOME-23-WW)

SKU: BA-1156-23X-WW

* Base Type:  Single-Contact (BA15s)

 

https://store.marinebeam.com/23-led-constellation-matrix-for-dome-lights-un-dome-23-ww/

 

 

RED/WHITE "SWITCHABLE" LED FOR DOME LIGHTS (UN-DOME-15-RWW)

SKU: UN-DOME-15-RWW 

Base Type: Single-Contact (BA15s)

 

https://store.marinebeam.com/red-white-switchable-led-for-dome-lights-un-dome-15-rww/

 

 

We've had them for 4 or 5 years now, absolutely no issues.

 

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia 

 

 

On 25 April 2018 at 13:47, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List  
wrote:

I need to replace all the cabin lights/fixtures on my 36XL/kcb and am thinking 
of a white/red combo LED for all 0r some of them. 

 

I mostly race her so the lights don't get used very often. I want to get 
something that is relatively inexpensive, will not

rust/tarnish (forget about the traditional brass stuff) and most importantly 
will work reliably after long periods of no use.

They probably will be powered by the house 12V--I tried battery operated (in 
the housing) and these were a total waste of money

since the batteries corroded faster than they lost their charge!

 

I am talking about forward and aft cabin lights (~ 6 total) which mount to the 
ceiling with built in switches for on-off and white/red. 

The housings on these will be exposed--visible so that 'ribbon' type LEDs are 
out.

 

In the main cabin, I need 4 that will be mounted under the 'shelves' and thus 
the housings are not important. I also need 2 that

would be mounted in the forward cabin corners for reading and 2 in the 
'ceiling', all of which would be exposed so the housing is important. 

 

I thought I might go with one source for consistency and maybe save some money. 

 

I am looking for suggestions from the list before I decide.

 

Thanks in advance, 

 

Charlie Nelson

1995 C 36 XL/kcb

Water Phantom

 

 

 

cenel...@aol.com


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Re: Stus-List Raymarine ST 60

[Harvey Barth via CnC-List]

I will be replacing my ST 60 instruments: I have  two - speed/depth 
instruments, a speed/ depth transducer, and one - wind instrument. All work 
fine.
Contact me if you are interested.

I will include the wind transducer that I never used and only replaced out of 
abundant caution when I purchased the boat and before the mast went up. 
Harvey


Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 25, 2018, at 8:20 PM, James Bibb via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I’m changing mine out, ST-60’s, over the next week or so.
> 
> I can send them to you and you can pay me what you think they are worth.
> 
> 
> James Bibb
> SV Darwins Folly
> Juneau, AK 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Apr 25, 2018, at 2:16 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Does anyone have a Raymarine S60 or ST60+ wind display and/or masthead 
>> transducer they want to get rod of? Mine is acting erratic, and it's tough 
>> to sail at night without it.
>> 
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>> 
>> ___
>> 
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>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Wind

[James Bibb via CnC-List]

I’m changing mine out, ST-60’s, over the next week or so.

I can send them to you and you can pay me what you think they are worth.


James Bibb
SV Darwins Folly
Juneau, AK 



> On Apr 25, 2018, at 2:16 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have a Raymarine S60 or ST60+ wind display and/or masthead 
> transducer they want to get rod of? Mine is acting erratic, and it's tough to 
> sail at night without it.
> 
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Wind

[Paul Fountain via CnC-List]

Somewhere on raymarines site are the voltages to check the wind transducer. 
Also check the connections especially the ground.

Paul

From: CnC-List  on behalf of ALAN BERGEN via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 6:16:08 PM
To: C
Cc: ALAN BERGEN
Subject: Stus-List Raymarine Wind

Does anyone have a Raymarine S60 or ST60+ wind display and/or masthead 
transducer they want to get rod of? Mine is acting erratic, and it's tough to 
sail at night without it.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR

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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Wind

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Thanks Chad.  I'll try the display first, and then the transducer.

Alan


On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 4:04 PM, Chad Osmond via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Raymarine repair is about $150 fixed rate if it turns out to be the
> masthead transducer.
>
> We has ours repaired last year.
>
> You can verify by measuring the voltage from the ground shield to the
> yellow and green wires, there are a few documents online.
>
> On Wed, Apr 25, 2018, 6:17 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List, <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Does anyone have a Raymarine S60 or ST60+ wind display and/or masthead
>> transducer they want to get rod of? Mine is acting erratic, and it's tough
>> to sail at night without it.
>>
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
>> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
>> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>>
>>
> ___
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Wind

[Chad Osmond via CnC-List]

Raymarine repair is about $150 fixed rate if it turns out to be the
masthead transducer.

We has ours repaired last year.

You can verify by measuring the voltage from the ground shield to the
yellow and green wires, there are a few documents online.

On Wed, Apr 25, 2018, 6:17 PM ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does anyone have a Raymarine S60 or ST60+ wind display and/or masthead
> transducer they want to get rod of? Mine is acting erratic, and it's tough
> to sail at night without it.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Standing rigging leak

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I built new covers from stainless.

Gary 30-1

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of Christian Planton 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 3:28 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Christian Planton 
Subject: Stus-List Standing rigging leak

 




I have a small leak at the chain plate. Anybody tried to fix this with 
something else than putting caulking around the base?

 

Christian

Peer Gynt II

C 34 1980

Saugatuck, CT

 

Wilton Public Schools is transitioning e-mail systems.  Effective immediately, 
please update your contact list to reflect the new e-mail address 
plant...@wiltonps.org  .

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Re: Stus-List Raymarine Wind

[schiller via CnC-List]

Alan,

I have an ST60 Wind display available.  No transducer, it went over with 
the mast.  Male me an offer and it is yours.


Neil Schiller
269-521-6073

On 4/25/2018 6:16 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List wrote:
Does anyone have a Raymarine S60 or ST60+ wind display and/or masthead 
transducer they want to get rod of? Mine is acting erratic, and it's 
tough to sail at night without it.


Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR



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Re: Stus-List Protecting the transom

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I will take some this weekend.


Charlie


cenel...@aol.com




-Original Message-
From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
To: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2018 3:28 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List Protecting the transom



pictures please!



On 4/25/2018 12:59 PM, Charlie Nelson  via CnC-List wrote:



After I had Water Phantom awl-gripped professionally about  7 years 
ago, I had a canvas maker build a 'boot' for the  transom.

 

This is made of some kind of relatively tough vinyl,  complete with 
graphics, and is attached to the stern pulpit  with

simple fasteners around the pulpit supports. It covers the  stern 
completely when she is at the dock, comes off/on  relatively easily and

has kept the sun off the transom. 

 

Its hard to know if or how much it has helped because I  have no 
'control' to compare it with but it certainly

has kept the awlgrip shine on the stern at the same level  as the hull, 
which does not receive as much

direct sun.

 

YMMV,

 

Charlie Nelson

Water Phantom

 

cenel...@aol.com


  
  
  
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Stus-List Raymarine Wind

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

Does anyone have a Raymarine S60 or ST60+ wind display and/or masthead
transducer they want to get rod of? Mine is acting erratic, and it's tough
to sail at night without it.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
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Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Got my replacement LEDs this year from MarineBeam also. Nice build and 
packaging.
I'll be trying out their new two wire Tricolor/anchor/strobe this season and a 
steaming/decklight combo too.


> On April 25, 2018 at 4:27 PM Ken Heaton via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hi Charlie,
> 
> I bought the following from Marine Beam and just put them into the 
> existing lights.  There are two types of retrofit LED's I used, one type is 
> just Warm White, the other switches between Red and Warm White.  Absolutely 
> no changes to the existing lights required, no wiring changes either, just 
> put them in and they work  Very nice light form them too.
> 
> 23-LED CONSTELLATION MATRIX FOR DOME LIGHTS (UN-DOME-23-WW)
> SKU: BA-1156-23X-WW
> * Base Type:  Single-Contact (BA15s)
> 
> 
> https://store.marinebeam.com/23-led-constellation-matrix-for-dome-lights-un-dome-23-ww/
> 
> 
> RED/WHITE "SWITCHABLE" LED FOR DOME LIGHTS (UN-DOME-15-RWW)
> SKU: UN-DOME-15-RWW 
> Base Type: Single-Contact (BA15s)
> 
> 
> https://store.marinebeam.com/red-white-switchable-led-for-dome-lights-un-dome-15-rww/
> 
> 
> We've had them for 4 or 5 years now, absolutely no issues.
> 
> Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
> S/V Salazar - Can 54955
> C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
> Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
> 
> 
> On 25 April 2018 at 13:47, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> > > I need to replace all the cabin lights/fixtures on my 
> 36XL/kcb and am thinking of a white/red combo LED for all 0r some of them.
> >  
> > I mostly race her so the lights don't get used very often. I want 
> > to get something that is relatively inexpensive, will not
> > rust/tarnish (forget about the traditional brass stuff) and most 
> > importantly will work reliably after long periods of no use.
> > They probably will be powered by the house 12V--I tried battery 
> > operated (in the housing) and these were a total waste of money
> > since the batteries corroded faster than they lost their charge!
> >  
> > I am talking about forward and aft cabin lights (~ 6 total) which 
> > mount to the ceiling with built in switches for on-off and white/red.
> > The housings on these will be exposed--visible so that 'ribbon' 
> > type LEDs are out.
> >  
> > In the main cabin, I need 4 that will be mounted under the 
> > 'shelves' and thus the housings are not important. I also need 2 that
> > would be mounted in the forward cabin corners for reading and 2 in 
> > the 'ceiling', all of which would be exposed so the housing is important.
> >  
> > I thought I might go with one source for consistency and maybe save 
> > some money. 
> >  
> > I am looking for suggestions from the list before I decide.
> >  
> > Thanks in advance, 
> >  
> > Charlie Nelson
> > 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
> > Water Phantom
> >  
> >  
> >  
> > cenel...@aol.com mailto:cenel...@aol.com
> > 
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 
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Re: Stus-List LED Cabin Lighting

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Dave,
I bought one of those puck light packs 5 or 6 years ago and use them often. I 
put them in the pilot berths and inside cubbies and the engine compartment. The 
batteries last the season or two if rarely used. I use them as night lights or 
stumble lights when we watch TV.
I keep a larger version in my ice box which turns off automatically after a 
preset time. I remember I found it in Walmart as a closet light for $6.


> On April 25, 2018 at 5:29 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> At BJ’s wholesale club I noticed a pack of 8 LED battery operated puck 
> lights with velcro stick on mounts and a remote control that regulated which 
> were on and brightness.  The whole thing was under $20.  I was very tempted 
> and may yet do it even though I already have LED’s.  I am sure I would find a 
> use for them.  Dave
> 
> Dr. David Knecht
> Professor , Department of Molecular and Cell Biology 
> University of Connecticut
> 91 N. Eagleville Rd.
> U-3125
> Storrs, CT 06269-3125
> 860-486-2200
> 
> 
> > > On Apr 25, 2018, at 4:33 PM, Jean-Guy Nadeau via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> > 
> > I found some 12 v emergency lights at a Restore for $6 each. They 
> > didn't have an incorporated switch so that cost another $5 for a small 
> > rocker switch from a local electronics store, then replaced the bulb with 
> > an LED I got on e-Bay for peanuts (from China). Cheap and works great.
> > 
> > Cheers, J-G 
> > Callisto, 35 Mk2
> > ___
> > 
> > Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  
> > Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list 
> > - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> > 
> > 
> > > 
> 
 

> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each 
> and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> 
 
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Re: Stus-List LED Cabin Lighting

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

I bought battery operated, LED puck lights at Harbor Freight.  They didn't
last very long.  I replaced them with circular, LED  lights that I bought
from a local marine store.  They are touch sensitive.  Touch once, and they
give you a nice blue light.  Touch again and the light turns white.  Touch
and hold, and they gradually dim or get brighter, depending on how long you
hold the touch.

Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR


On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 2:29 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> At BJ’s wholesale club I noticed a pack of 8 LED battery operated puck
> lights with velcro stick on mounts and a remote control that regulated
> which were on and brightness.  The whole thing was under $20.  I was very
> tempted and may yet do it even though I already have LED’s.  I am sure I
> would find a use for them.  Dave
>
> Dr. David Knecht
> Professor , Department of Molecular and Cell Biology
> University of Connecticut
> 91 N. Eagleville Rd.
> U-3125
> Storrs, CT 06269-3125
> 860-486-2200
>
> On Apr 25, 2018, at 4:33 PM, Jean-Guy Nadeau via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I found some 12 v emergency lights at a Restore for $6 each. They didn't
> have an incorporated switch so that cost another $5 for a small rocker
> switch from a local electronics store, then replaced the bulb with an LED I
> got on e-Bay for peanuts (from China). Cheap and works great.
>
> Cheers, J-G
> Callisto, 35 Mk2
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://urldefense.proofpoint.
> com/v2/url?u=https-3A__www.paypal.me_stumurray=DwICAg=
> clK7kQUTWtAVEOVIgvi0NU5BOUHhpN0H8p7CSfnc_gI=
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>
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Re: Stus-List LED Cabin Lighting

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

At BJ’s wholesale club I noticed a pack of 8 LED battery operated puck lights 
with velcro stick on mounts and a remote control that regulated which were on 
and brightness.  The whole thing was under $20.  I was very tempted and may yet 
do it even though I already have LED’s.  I am sure I would find a use for them. 
 Dave

Dr. David Knecht
Professor , Department of Molecular and Cell Biology 
University of Connecticut   
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
U-3125
Storrs, CT 06269-3125
860-486-2200

> On Apr 25, 2018, at 4:33 PM, Jean-Guy Nadeau via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I found some 12 v emergency lights at a Restore for $6 each. They didn't have 
> an incorporated switch so that cost another $5 for a small rocker switch from 
> a local electronics store, then replaced the bulb with an LED I got on e-Bay 
> for peanuts (from China). Cheap and works great.
> 
> Cheers, J-G 
> Callisto, 35 Mk2
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List Standing rigging leak

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Christian,

I don’t know how your chainplates are constructed but if they are like mine, 
and I suspect they are, then you may be in for a bit of work.

I quite literally just finished torquing the last of the chainplate bolts today 
after applying liberal amounts of butyl tape to the underside of the horizontal 
deck plate. The only thing left to do is to insert the 6 per side 1/4-20 
Phillips Oval head bolts and tighten. On our boat that plate is held-arc’d to 
the vertical chainplate and immovable. In order to attach the butyl, or any 
sealant for that matter, I had to unbolt all 14 bolts (per side) and lift the 
entire affair out of the deck.

Non-trivial.

Hope you don’t have to do that.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Apr 25, 2018, at 4:22 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> If someone did, chances are they weren’t successful. 
> 
> I just re-bedded Touché’s shroud plates with butyl tape. It’s the best way to 
> do it. 
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Apr 25, 2018, at 3:05 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
> > wrote:
> 
>> I think that the collective wisdom is to use the butyl tape
>>  
>> Marek
>>  
>> From: Christian Planton via CnC-List <>
>> Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 15:29
>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <>
>> Cc: Christian Planton <>
>> Subject: Stus-List Standing rigging leak
>>  
>>  
>> I have a small leak at the chain plate. Anybody tried to fix this with 
>> something else than putting caulking around the base?
>>  
>> Christian
>> Peer Gynt II
>> C 34 1980
>> Saugatuck, CT
>>  
>> Wilton Public Schools is transitioning e-mail systems.  Effective 
>> immediately, please update your contact list to reflect the new e-mail 
>> address plant...@wiltonps.org <>.
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> 
>> 
> ___
> 
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting

[detroito91 via CnC-List]

We all will have a chance to look at each others boat in Annapolis Jim schwartz 
 SEA YA I 38 landfall washington nc 
 Original message From: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
 Date: 4/25/18  4:10 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: "Dennis C."  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List LED cabin lighting 
I only buy LED’s from marinebeam.com. Bought Dr. LED and others.  They are no 
longer on Touché.
Dennis C.Touché 35-1 #83Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 25, 2018, at 2:30 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List  
wrote:

I should have had you on my boat (Expresso) when we met at the C Rendezvous 
in Mistic, CT. to see the lighting.
Gary


~~~_/)~~



On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 3:16 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 



 Gary, Thanks understood;...I just like seeing what other listers have done to 
improve their boats!





Richard




s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 27 CB; Ohio River

Richard N. Bush

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255


 



 



-Original Message-

From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 

To: C List 

Cc: Gary Russell 

Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2018 2:32 pm

Subject: Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting








Richard,
     You know that's something I should have done, but didn't.  I put the same 
lighting in Expresso (my 35 Mk II) and Kaylarah (my 37+).  Several people 
copied my idea at the club.  I have photographed most of my projects, but not 
the lighting.  Perhaps, because it's kind of difficult to get a photo of 
something you can't see.  The lights are hidden... you only see the light.  The 
next time I'm on the boat at night, I'll try to get some photos.  Perhaps, if 
it stops raining, I might be able to get some photos tonight.





Gary





~~~_/)~~









On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 2:06 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
 wrote:



 Gary do you have any photos? Thanks






 









Richard




s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River








Richard N. Bush  


2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine


Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 


502-584-7255





 






 






-Original Message-


From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 


To: C List 


Cc: Gary Russell 


Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2018 1:44 pm


Subject: Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting













I installed indirect lighting under the cabinets and trim in the form of self 
adhesive led strips that are inexpensive and look sexy.  You can also purchase 
remote control / dimmers that require no routing of wires.








Gary



S/V Kaylarah



'90 C 37+



East Greenwich, RI, USA













~~~_/)~~
















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to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray






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Stus-List LED Cabin Lighting

[Jean-Guy Nadeau via CnC-List]

I found some 12 v emergency lights at a Restore for $6 each. They didn't have 
an incorporated switch so that cost another $5 for a small rocker switch from a 
local electronics store, then replaced the bulb with an LED I got on e-Bay for 
peanuts (from China). Cheap and works great.

Cheers, J-G
Callisto, 35 Mk2
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Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting

[Ken Heaton via CnC-List]

Hi Charlie,

I bought the following from Marine Beam and just put them into the existing
lights.  There are two types of retrofit LED's I used, one type is just
Warm White, the other switches between Red and Warm White.  Absolutely no
changes to the existing lights required, no wiring changes either, just put
them in and they work  Very nice light form them too.

23-LED CONSTELLATION MATRIX FOR DOME LIGHTS (UN-DOME-23-WW)
SKU: BA-1156-23X-WW
* Base Type:  Single-Contact (BA15s)

https://store.marinebeam.com/23-led-constellation-matrix-for-dome-lights-un-dome-23-ww/


RED/WHITE "SWITCHABLE" LED FOR DOME LIGHTS (UN-DOME-15-RWW)
SKU: UN-DOME-15-RWW
Base Type: Single-Contact (BA15s)

https://store.marinebeam.com/red-white-switchable-led-for-dome-lights-un-dome-15-rww/


We've had them for 4 or 5 years now, absolutely no issues.

Ken Heaton & Anne Tobin
S/V Salazar - Can 54955
C 37/40 XL - Hull # 67
Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia


On 25 April 2018 at 13:47, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I need to replace all the cabin lights/fixtures on my 36XL/kcb and am
> thinking of a white/red combo LED for all 0r some of them.
>
> I mostly race her so the lights don't get used very often. I want to get
> something that is relatively inexpensive, will not
> rust/tarnish (forget about the traditional brass stuff) and most
> importantly will work reliably after long periods of no use.
> They probably will be powered by the house 12V--I tried battery operated
> (in the housing) and these were a total waste of money
> since the batteries corroded faster than they lost their charge!
>
> I am talking about forward and aft cabin lights (~ 6 total) which mount to
> the ceiling with built in switches for on-off and white/red.
> The housings on these will be exposed--visible so that 'ribbon' type LEDs
> are out.
>
> In the main cabin, I need 4 that will be mounted under the 'shelves' and
> thus the housings are not important. I also need 2 that
> would be mounted in the forward cabin corners for reading and 2 in the
> 'ceiling', all of which would be exposed so the housing is important.
>
> I thought I might go with one source for consistency and maybe save
> some money.
>
> I am looking for suggestions from the list before I decide.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Charlie Nelson
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
>
>
>
> cenel...@aol.com
>
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Standing rigging leak

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

If someone did, chances are they weren’t successful. 

I just re-bedded Touché’s shroud plates with butyl tape. It’s the best way to 
do it. 

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 25, 2018, at 3:05 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I think that the collective wisdom is to use the butyl tape
>  
> Marek
>  
> From: Christian Planton via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 15:29
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Christian Planton
> Subject: Stus-List Standing rigging leak
>  
>  
> I have a small leak at the chain plate. Anybody tried to fix this with 
> something else than putting caulking around the base?
>  
> Christian
> Peer Gynt II
> C 34 1980
> Saugatuck, CT
>  
> Wilton Public Schools is transitioning e-mail systems.  Effective 
> immediately, please update your contact list to reflect the new e-mail 
> address plant...@wiltonps.org.
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List Wax

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

> 3M Restorer and Wax
3M Finesse-It
Aqua buff 2000

A BIG NO to rubbing compound!

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

I only buy LED’s from marinebeam.com. Bought Dr. LED and others.  They are no 
longer on Touché.

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 25, 2018, at 2:30 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I should have had you on my boat (Expresso) when we met at the C Rendezvous 
> in Mistic, CT. to see the lighting.
> 
> Gary
> 
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 3:16 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Gary, Thanks understood;...I just like seeing what other listers have done 
>> to improve their boats!
>> Richard
>> 
>> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 27 CB; Ohio River
>> Richard N. Bush
>> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
>> 502-584-7255
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>> To: C List 
>> Cc: Gary Russell 
>> Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2018 2:32 pm
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting
>> 
>> Richard,
>>  You know that's something I should have done, but didn't.  I put the 
>> same lighting in Expresso (my 35 Mk II) and Kaylarah (my 37+).  Several 
>> people copied my idea at the club.  I have photographed most of my projects, 
>> but not the lighting.  Perhaps, because it's kind of difficult to get a 
>> photo of something you can't see.  The lights are hidden... you only see the 
>> light.  The next time I'm on the boat at night, I'll try to get some photos. 
>>  Perhaps, if it stops raining, I might be able to get some photos tonight.
>> 
>> Gary
>> 
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>> 
>> On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 2:06 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Gary do you have any photos? Thanks
>> 
>> Richard
>> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River
>> 
>> 
>> Richard N. Bush  
>> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
>> 502-584-7255
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>> To: C List 
>> Cc: Gary Russell 
>> Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2018 1:44 pm
>> Subject: Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting
>> 
>> I installed indirect lighting under the cabinets and trim in the form of 
>> self adhesive led strips that are inexpensive and look sexy.  You can also 
>> purchase remote control / dimmers that require no routing of wires.
>> 
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah
>> '90 C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> 
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
>> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
>> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List Standing rigging leak

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

I think that the collective wisdom is to use the butyl tape

Marek

From: Christian Planton via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 15:29
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Christian Planton
Subject: Stus-List Standing rigging leak


I have a small leak at the chain plate. Anybody tried to fix this with 
something else than putting caulking around the base?

Christian
Peer Gynt II
C 34 1980
Saugatuck, CT

Wilton Public Schools is transitioning e-mail systems.  Effective immediately, 
please update your contact list to reflect the new e-mail address 
plant...@wiltonps.org.
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Re: Stus-List Pins for chain plate aluminum cover

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

.and once you insert and center them, make an indent on each side next to 
the chain plate with a metal chisel to keep them in place. 

Dennis C. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 25, 2018, at 2:16 PM, Bill Dakin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> I would grab a micrometer to mic the diameter and match up with SS round 
> stock at a hardware store or elsewhere.  But you may not have one to measure. 
>  The pins are transition fit and require very mild persuasion to insert.
> 
>> On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 1:17 PM, Glen Eddie via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Hello everyone,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> As one of the final steps in getting Freya IV back in the water, I need to 
>> buy/replace 3 of the pins that were on the aluminum cover over the chain 
>> plate on a C MkI.  Does anyone know if these are stock items and if in 
>> the 
>> 
>> 
>> 
> 
>  
> Bill Dakin
> S/V Tapestry
> 25-2
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> 
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Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I should have had you on my boat (Expresso) when we met at the C
Rendezvous in Mistic, CT. to see the lighting.

Gary


~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 3:16 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Gary, Thanks understood;...I just like seeing what other listers have done
> to improve their boats!
> Richard
>
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 27 CB; Ohio River
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
> To: C List 
> Cc: Gary Russell 
> Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2018 2:32 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting
>
> Richard,
>  You know that's something I should have done, but didn't.  I put the
> same lighting in Expresso (my 35 Mk II) and Kaylarah (my 37+).  Several
> people copied my idea at the club.  I have photographed most of my
> projects, but not the lighting.  Perhaps, because it's kind of difficult to
> get a photo of something you can't see.  The lights are hidden... you only
> see the light.  The next time I'm on the boat at night, I'll try to get
> some photos.  Perhaps, if it stops raining, I might be able to get some
> photos tonight.
>
> Gary
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 2:06 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Gary do you have any photos? Thanks
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River
>
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
> To: C List 
> Cc: Gary Russell 
> Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2018 1:44 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting
>
> I installed indirect lighting under the cabinets and trim in the form of self
> adhesive led strips
> 
> that are inexpensive and look sexy.  You can also purchase remote control
> / dimmers
> 
> that require no routing of wires.
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
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>
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>
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>
>
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Stus-List Standing rigging leak

[Christian Planton via CnC-List]

I have a small leak at the chain plate. Anybody tried to fix this with
something else than putting caulking around the base?

Christian
Peer Gynt II
C 34 1980
Saugatuck, CT

Wilton Public Schools is transitioning e-mail systems.  Effective
immediately, please update your contact list to reflect the new e-mail
address plant...@wiltonps.org.
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Re: Stus-List Protecting the transom

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

pictures please!


On 4/25/2018 12:59 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
After I had Water Phantom awl-gripped professionally about 7 years 
ago, I had a canvas maker build a 'boot' for the transom.
This is made of some kind of relatively tough vinyl, complete with 
graphics, and is attached to the stern pulpit with
simple fasteners around the pulpit supports. It covers the stern 
completely when she is at the dock, comes off/on relatively easily and

has kept the sun off the transom.
Its hard to know if or how much it has helped because I have no 
'control' to compare it with but it certainly
has kept the awlgrip shine on the stern at the same level as the hull, 
which does not receive as much

direct sun.
YMMV,
Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
cenel...@aol.com


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Re: Stus-List Wax

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

I probably should ad my brother isn't the most meticulous person I've 
ever known and I thought the boat looked great.  Honestly, looking at 
your boot-stripes, I don't think you have any reason to believe you 
won't be perfectly happy with the results.  I think you would just need 
to tent it off to keep dust and other airborne contamination off the 
curing paint.



On 4/25/2018 12:12 PM, David via CnC-List wrote:


Well seeing as we board Corsair via the transom ladder quite often 
from the dinghy...not sure if that is an argument for or against!



*David F. Risch*

*/GulfStreamAssociates,LLC/**
*

**

*(401) 419-4650 *




*From:* CnC-List  on behalf of Danny 
Haughey via CnC-List 

*Sent:* Wednesday, April 25, 2018 12:08 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Danny Haughey
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Wax
My brother rolled and tipped a whole 55 foot trawler with awlgrip.  It 
looked awesome from 5 feet away!




Thanks,
Danny

 Original message 
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Date: 4/25/18 11:55 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax

I'd make sure Awl-Grip is roller friendly.  I think spraying is 
recommended.


I just did my bimini with 2 part Epiphanes.  Sets up quickly, comes 
out smooth, hard and shiny.  You need to do small areas and tip as 
soon as you roll.


Joel

On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 11:51 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
> wrote:


Hi David- I had planned on using something other than Awlgrip as
the inability to repair that stuff is annoying.  There is a useful
Practical Sailor 3 year test that I found useful.  They recommend
Interlux Perfection or Epifanes 2 parts.  Dave

https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_24/features/Topside-Paint-Endurance-Test-3-Year-Checkup_10942-1.html



Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



On Apr 25, 2018, at 11:21 AM, David via CnC-List
> wrote:

David,

My flag blue transom on my 40 is pretty bad too.  After good luck
with repainting the boot stripe and my Dyer Dhow I decided to
strip the transom and DIY repaint with Awlgrip. Apparently
Awlgrip is roller/brush friendly.  I will let you know how it
turns out.

*David F. Risch*
*/GulfStreamAssociates,LLC/**
*
**
*(401) 419-4650 *



*From:*CnC-List > on behalf of David Knecht
via CnC-List >
*Sent:*Wednesday, April 25, 2018 11:15 AM
*To:*CnC CnC discussion list
*Cc:*David Knecht
*Subject:*Re: Stus-List Wax
I have generally had good luck with Poliglow despite it not being
recommended for Awlgrip.  I had used it to great effect on my
previous boat, and when I bought this boat, the topsides were
pretty sad and I got lots of compliments on the look after
Poliglow treatment.  Now, 5 years later, the boat really needs a
new paint job.  I decided new sails were more important, so
putting that off for a few years. It looks fine from 100 ft. so
hoping to be that far in front of the competition.  Painting
looks like a PITA job as DIY and expensive as professional.  In
the meantime, the reverse angle transom is really in bad shape-
mottled and patchy in color presumably because it gets more sun.
I took the Poliglow off with Poliprep and it still looks pretty
bad.  What would be the most aggressive thing to try on the
Awlgrip to make it look better before reapplying Poliglow?  I
tried Poly-ox and that had little effect.  I am guessing that
there is nothing else to do at this point, but awaiting the
wisdom of the list.  Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



On Apr 23, 2018, at 11:44 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List
> wrote:

My experience with Polyglow was poor. Initially it looked good.
Unfortunately, it soon showed lots of dark pollution streaks on
a light colored surface. It was difficult to remove.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or



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Re: Stus-List Wax

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I did not try rubbing compound as the Awlgrip literature is very adamant that 
you should not ever do that.  Like David, mine is so far gone that it might be 
worth a try.  
The Practical sailor test I read actually had different results for longevity 
depending on the color.  The winner for blue was actually the one part 
Epiphanes over the two part and others.  
https://www.practical-sailor.com/newspics/charts/32-5-Value3.pdf
Dave

Dr. David Knecht
Professor , Department of Molecular and Cell Biology 
University of Connecticut   
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
U-3125
Storrs, CT 06269-3125
860-486-2200

> On Apr 25, 2018, at 11:52 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Couldn’t you bring that paint back to life with some rubbing compound and a 
> orbital buffer? As long as the paint has enough thickness, I would think that 
> would be worth a try – it would be a fairly cheap experiment, at least.
> I have done amazing things I would have never thought possible with buffing 
> compound. I just went out to look for a part#, but the label is long gone, 
> but I am sure it was 3M somethingorother.
>  
> Bill Coleman
> C 39 Erie, PA
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 11:22 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: David
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax
>  
> David,
>  
> My flag blue transom on my 40 is pretty bad too.  After good luck with 
> repainting the boot stripe and my Dyer Dhow I decided to strip the transom 
> and DIY repaint with Awlgrip.  Apparently Awlgrip is roller/brush friendly.  
> I will let you know how it turns out.
>  
> David F. Risch
> Gulf Stream Associates, LLC
> (401) 419-4650 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of David Knecht via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 11:15 AM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list
> Cc: David Knecht
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax
>  
> I have generally had good luck with Poliglow despite it not being recommended 
> for Awlgrip.  I had used it to great effect on my previous boat, and when I 
> bought this boat, the topsides were pretty sad and I got lots of compliments 
> on the look after Poliglow treatment.  Now, 5 years later, the boat really 
> needs a new paint job.  I decided new sails were more important, so putting 
> that off for a few years.  It looks fine from 100 ft. so hoping to be that 
> far in front of the competition.  Painting looks like a PITA job as DIY and 
> expensive as professional.  In the meantime, the reverse angle transom is 
> really in bad shape- mottled and patchy in color presumably because it gets 
> more sun.  I took the Poliglow off with Poliprep and it still looks pretty 
> bad.  What would be the most aggressive thing to try on the Awlgrip to make 
> it look better before reapplying Poliglow?  I tried Poly-ox and that had 
> little effect.  I am guessing that there is nothing else to do at this point, 
> but awaiting the wisdom of the list.  Dave 
>  
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
>  
>> On Apr 23, 2018, at 11:44 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
>> > wrote:
>>  
>> My experience with Polyglow was poor. Initially it looked good. 
>> Unfortunately, it soon showed lots of dark pollution streaks on a light 
>> colored surface. It was difficult to remove. 
>>  
>> Fred Hazzard 
>> S/V Fury 
>> C 44
>> Portland, Or
>>  
> 
>  
> ___
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> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
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Re: Stus-List Pins for chain plate aluminum cover

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

I would grab a micrometer to mic the diameter and match up with SS round
stock at a hardware store or elsewhere.  But you may not have one to
measure.  The pins are transition fit and require very mild persuasion to
insert.

On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 1:17 PM, Glen Eddie via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hello everyone,
>
>
>
> As one of the final steps in getting Freya IV back in the water, I need to
> buy/replace 3 of the pins that were on the aluminum cover over the chain
> plate on a C MkI.  Does anyone know if these are stock items and if in
> the
>
>
>

Bill Dakin
S/V Tapestry
25-2
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Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 

 Gary, Thanks understood;...I just like seeing what other listers have done to 
improve their boats!


Richard

s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 27 CB; Ohio River
Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
To: C List 
Cc: Gary Russell 
Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2018 2:32 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting



Richard,
 You know that's something I should have done, but didn't.  I put the same 
lighting in Expresso (my 35 Mk II) and Kaylarah (my 37+).  Several people 
copied my idea at the club.  I have photographed most of my projects, but not 
the lighting.  Perhaps, because it's kind of difficult to get a photo of 
something you can't see.  The lights are hidden... you only see the light.  The 
next time I'm on the boat at night, I'll try to get some photos.  Perhaps, if 
it stops raining, I might be able to get some photos tonight.


Gary



~~~_/)~~




On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 2:06 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
 wrote:

 Gary do you have any photos? Thanks

 


Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River


Richard N. Bush  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
To: C List 
Cc: Gary Russell 
Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2018 1:44 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting



I installed indirect lighting under the cabinets and trim in the form of self 
adhesive led strips that are inexpensive and look sexy.  You can also purchase 
remote control / dimmers that require no routing of wires.


Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA




~~~_/)~~




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Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Richard,
 You know that's something I should have done, but didn't.  I put the
same lighting in Expresso (my 35 Mk II) and Kaylarah (my 37+).  Several
people copied my idea at the club.  I have photographed most of my
projects, but not the lighting.  Perhaps, because it's kind of difficult to
get a photo of something you can't see.  The lights are hidden... you only
see the light.  The next time I'm on the boat at night, I'll try to get
some photos.  Perhaps, if it stops raining, I might be able to get some
photos tonight.

Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 2:06 PM, bushmark4--- via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gary do you have any photos? Thanks
>
> Richard
> s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River
>
>
> Richard N. Bush
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
> 502-584-7255
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
> To: C List 
> Cc: Gary Russell 
> Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2018 1:44 pm
> Subject: Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting
>
> I installed indirect lighting under the cabinets and trim in the form of self
> adhesive led strips
> 
> that are inexpensive and look sexy.  You can also purchase remote control
> / dimmers
> 
> that require no routing of wires.
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
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Stus-List Pins for chain plate aluminum cover

[Glen Eddie via CnC-List]

Hello everyone,

As one of the final steps in getting Freya IV back in the water, I need to 
buy/replace 3 of the pins that were on the aluminum cover over the chain plate 
on a C MkI.  Does anyone know if these are stock items and if in the 
Toronto area where I could buy same. Thanks as always.


Glen Eddie

Tel:  416-777-5357

Fax:  1-888-812-2557

ged...@torkinmanes.com

VCard

Torkin Manes LLP
Barristers & Solicitors
151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
Toronto ON M5C 2W7
torkinmanes.com
An international member of Ally Law

This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this 
message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. Thank 
you.
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Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 Gary do you have any photos? Thanks

 


Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River


Richard N. Bush  
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Gary Russell via CnC-List 
To: C List 
Cc: Gary Russell 
Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2018 1:44 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting



I installed indirect lighting under the cabinets and trim in the form of self 
adhesive led strips that are inexpensive and look sexy.  You can also purchase 
remote control / dimmers that require no routing of wires.


Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA




~~~_/)~~



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Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I installed indirect lighting under the cabinets and trim in the form of self
adhesive led strips

that are inexpensive and look sexy.  You can also purchase remote control /
dimmers

that require no routing of wires.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 1:28 PM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Okay.  Thanks.
>
> *From:* Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 25, 2018 1:10 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Dave Godwin 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting
>
> Charlie,
>
> Just bought six Imtra Sydney
> 
> interior reading lamps. I installed the two in the v-berth a couple of
> weeks past and they work well. Years ago (pre-LED) I bought some cheap,
> brass-plated halogens. Not worth the shipping costs. Cheap, hard to mount
> and didn’t last very long. Did I mention cheap?
>
> The lamps only come in white so they will not fit your bill for red/white.
> This wasn’t a concern for me as I have dedicated red LED courtesy lights
> one a single circuit, scattered throughout the interior. For the lights in
> the overhead (ceiling) lights I will use a good quality flush-mount puck
> LED light.
>
> I was able to buy the lights during Defender Industries last sale so saved
> 20% per lamp. That said, looking around the Intertubz one can find the
> lower pricing on those units.
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
> On Apr 25, 2018, at 12:47 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I need to replace all the cabin lights/fixtures on my 36XL/kcb and am
> thinking of a white/red combo LED for all 0r some of them.
>
> I mostly race her so the lights don't get used very often. I want to get
> something that is relatively inexpensive, will not
> rust/tarnish (forget about the traditional brass stuff) and most
> importantly will work reliably after long periods of no use.
> They probably will be powered by the house 12V--I tried battery operated
> (in the housing) and these were a total waste of money
> since the batteries corroded faster than they lost their charge!
>
> I am talking about forward and aft cabin lights (~ 6 total) which mount to
> the ceiling with built in switches for on-off and white/red.
> The housings on these will be exposed--visible so that 'ribbon' type LEDs
> are out.
>
> In the main cabin, I need 4 that will be mounted under the 'shelves' and
> thus the housings are not important. I also need 2 that
> would be mounted in the forward cabin corners for reading and 2 in the
> 'ceiling', all of which would be exposed so the housing is important.
>
> I thought I might go with one source for consistency and maybe save some
> money.
>
> I am looking for suggestions from the list before I decide.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Charlie Nelson
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
>
>
>
> cenel...@aol.com
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> --
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
> ___
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting

[detroito91 via CnC-List]

We did the same. Believe it or not Amazon was the lowest. Spent about $9.00 
each where they were about $15.00 + everywhere else.Jim schwartz38 landfall SEA 
YA I WASHINGTON nc
 Original message From: Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/25/18  12:47 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cenel...@aol.com Subject: Stus-List LED cabin 
lighting 

I need to replace all the cabin lights/fixtures on my 36XL/kcb and am thinking 
of a white/red combo LED for all 0r some of them. 

 

I mostly race her so the lights don't get used very often. I want to get 
something that is relatively inexpensive, will not

rust/tarnish (forget about the traditional brass stuff) and most importantly 
will work reliably after long periods of no use.

They probably will be powered by the house 12V--I tried battery operated (in 
the housing) and these were a total waste of money

since the batteries corroded faster than they lost their charge!

 

I am talking about forward and aft cabin lights (~ 6 total) which mount to the 
ceiling with built in switches for on-off and white/red. 

The housings on these will be exposed--visible so that 'ribbon' type LEDs are 
out.

 

In the main cabin, I need 4 that will be mounted under the 'shelves' and thus 
the housings are not important. I also need 2 that

would be mounted in the forward cabin corners for reading and 2 in the 
'ceiling', all of which would be exposed so the housing is important. 

 

I thought I might go with one source for consistency and maybe save some money. 

 

I am looking for suggestions from the list before I decide.

 

Thanks in advance, 

 

Charlie Nelson

1995 C 36 XL/kcb

Water Phantom

 

 

 

cenel...@aol.com


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Re: Stus-List Wax; now repaint (and thin no more)

[detroito91 via CnC-List]

The local sign/graphics company. New stuff.  Normally you spray alot of water 
then "squeegee " the water out and it sticks. Like window tint. Goes on dry and 
squeegee the air out. I then applied boat name and hailing port dry onto 
that.alot easier, cleaner and i think looks greatJim schwartz SEA YA I 
 Original message From: David via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/25/18  12:26 PM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: David  Subject: Re: Stus-List 
Wax; now repaint (and thin no more) 


Jim...interesting.  Where did you get the vinyl?







David F. Risch
Gulf
Stream
Associates,
LLC



(401) 419-4650 










From: CnC-List  on behalf of detroito91 via 
CnC-List 

Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 12:23 PM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Cc: detroito91

Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax; now repaint (and thin no more)
 

I took a different approach on the transom.
Sanded the transom then applied blue vinyl. From local sign company . Then i 
was able to apply vinyl graphics onto that. No adhesive used
Jim schwartz 
38 landfall 
SEA YA!
Washington nc 




 Original message 
From: bushmark4--- via CnC-List  
Date: 4/25/18 11:30 AM (GMT-05:00) 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: bushma...@aol.com 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax; now repaint (and thin no more) 





David, I would like to see photos of your project as well; before and after if 
possible?  Many thanks






Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River; (on the hard-undergoing a complete 
bottom job)



Richard N. Bush 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255







-Original Message-

From: David via CnC-List 

To: cnc-list 

Cc: David 

Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2018 11:22 am

Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax






David,



My flag blue transom on my 40 is pretty bad too.  After good luck with 
repainting the boot stripe and my Dyer Dhow I decided to strip the transom and 
DIY repaint with Awlgrip.  Apparently Awlgrip is roller/brush friendly. 
 I will let you know how it turns out.







David F. Risch
Gulf
Stream
Associates,
LLC



(401) 419-4650 










From: CnC-List  on behalf of David Knecht via 
CnC-List 

Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 11:15 AM

To: CnC CnC discussion list

Cc: David Knecht

Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax
 

I have generally had good luck with Poliglow despite it not being recommended 
for Awlgrip.  I had used it to great effect on my previous boat, and when I 
bought this boat, the topsides were pretty sad and I got lots of compliments
 on the look after Poliglow treatment.  Now, 5 years later, the boat really 
needs a new paint job.  I decided new sails were more important, so putting 
that off for a few years.  It looks fine from 100 ft. so hoping to be that far 
in front of the competition.
  Painting looks like a PITA job as DIY and expensive as professional.  In the 
meantime, the reverse angle transom is really in bad shape- mottled and patchy 
in color presumably because it gets more sun.  I took the Poliglow off with 
Poliprep and it still looks
 pretty bad.  What would be the most aggressive thing to try on the Awlgrip to 
make it look better before reapplying Poliglow?  I tried Poly-ox and that had 
little effect.  I am guessing that there is nothing else to do at this point, 
but awaiting the wisdom
 of the list.  Dave





Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT









On Apr 23, 2018, at 11:44 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List  
wrote:




My experience with Polyglow was poor. Initially it looked good. Unfortunately, 
it soon showed lots of dark pollution streaks on a light colored surface. It 
was difficult to remove. 



Fred Hazzard 
S/V Fury 
C 44
Portland, Or














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Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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https://www.paypal.me/stumurray







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Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

Okay.  Thanks.

From: Dave Godwin via CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 1:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Dave Godwin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting

Charlie, 

Just bought six Imtra Sydney interior reading lamps. I installed the two in the 
v-berth a couple of weeks past and they work well. Years ago (pre-LED) I bought 
some cheap, brass-plated halogens. Not worth the shipping costs. Cheap, hard to 
mount and didn’t last very long. Did I mention cheap?

The lamps only come in white so they will not fit your bill for red/white. This 
wasn’t a concern for me as I have dedicated red LED courtesy lights one a 
single circuit, scattered throughout the interior. For the lights in the 
overhead (ceiling) lights I will use a good quality flush-mount puck LED light.

I was able to buy the lights during Defender Industries last sale so saved 20% 
per lamp. That said, looking around the Intertubz one can find the lower 
pricing on those units. 

Best,

Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit


  On Apr 25, 2018, at 12:47 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  I need to replace all the cabin lights/fixtures on my 36XL/kcb and am 
thinking of a white/red combo LED for all 0r some of them. 

  I mostly race her so the lights don't get used very often. I want to get 
something that is relatively inexpensive, will not
  rust/tarnish (forget about the traditional brass stuff) and most importantly 
will work reliably after long periods of no use.
  They probably will be powered by the house 12V--I tried battery operated (in 
the housing) and these were a total waste of money
  since the batteries corroded faster than they lost their charge!

  I am talking about forward and aft cabin lights (~ 6 total) which mount to 
the ceiling with built in switches for on-off and white/red. 
  The housings on these will be exposed--visible so that 'ribbon' type LEDs are 
out.

  In the main cabin, I need 4 that will be mounted under the 'shelves' and thus 
the housings are not important. I also need 2 that
  would be mounted in the forward cabin corners for reading and 2 in the 
'ceiling', all of which would be exposed so the housing is important. 

  I thought I might go with one source for consistency and maybe save some 
money. 

  I am looking for suggestions from the list before I decide.

  Thanks in advance, 

  Charlie Nelson
  1995 C 36 XL/kcb
  Water Phantom



  cenel...@aol.com

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Re: Stus-List LED cabin lighting

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Charlie,

Just bought six Imtra Sydney 

 interior reading lamps. I installed the two in the v-berth a couple of weeks 
past and they work well. Years ago (pre-LED) I bought some cheap, brass-plated 
halogens. Not worth the shipping costs. Cheap, hard to mount and didn’t last 
very long. Did I mention cheap?

The lamps only come in white so they will not fit your bill for red/white. This 
wasn’t a concern for me as I have dedicated red LED courtesy lights one a 
single circuit, scattered throughout the interior. For the lights in the 
overhead (ceiling) lights I will use a good quality flush-mount puck LED light.

I was able to buy the lights during Defender Industries last sale so saved 20% 
per lamp. That said, looking around the Intertubz one can find the lower 
pricing on those units. 

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 

> On Apr 25, 2018, at 12:47 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I need to replace all the cabin lights/fixtures on my 36XL/kcb and am 
> thinking of a white/red combo LED for all 0r some of them.
>  
> I mostly race her so the lights don't get used very often. I want to get 
> something that is relatively inexpensive, will not
> rust/tarnish (forget about the traditional brass stuff) and most importantly 
> will work reliably after long periods of no use.
> They probably will be powered by the house 12V--I tried battery operated (in 
> the housing) and these were a total waste of money
> since the batteries corroded faster than they lost their charge!
>  
> I am talking about forward and aft cabin lights (~ 6 total) which mount to 
> the ceiling with built in switches for on-off and white/red.
> The housings on these will be exposed--visible so that 'ribbon' type LEDs are 
> out.
>  
> In the main cabin, I need 4 that will be mounted under the 'shelves' and thus 
> the housings are not important. I also need 2 that
> would be mounted in the forward cabin corners for reading and 2 in the 
> 'ceiling', all of which would be exposed so the housing is important.
>  
> I thought I might go with one source for consistency and maybe save some 
> money. 
>  
> I am looking for suggestions from the list before I decide.
>  
> Thanks in advance, 
>  
> Charlie Nelson
> 1995 C 36 XL/kcb
> Water Phantom
>  
>  
>  
> cenel...@aol.com
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 

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Stus-List Universal M4-30 air filter

[Len Mitchell via CnC-List]

David, Just thought I would share, I have a Universal M35 and always had oil 
spray and an odour of oil in the engine compartment. I put an automotive style 
catch can from Jeggs and a better air filter on the engine from K which 
completely solved the problem. I get about 1/2 ounce of oil a year in the catch 
can rather than what you are experiencing. A little oil goes a long way so it’s 
important to figure out how much oil you are getting, to know if you have 
engine problems or not. Cleaning the filter is a regular maintenance thing same 
as any engine. I don’t use my engine as much as some but if you took 1/2 ounce 
x the number of years between cleanings, you may or may not have an engine 
issue. I would start with a simple catch can and go from there specially if you 
aren’t having to add oil. 

Len Mitchell
Crazy Legs
1989 C 37+
Midland On
Sent from my iPad
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Stus-List Protecting the transom

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

After I had Water Phantom awl-gripped professionally about 7 years ago, I had a 
canvas maker build a 'boot' for the transom.
 
This is made of some kind of relatively tough vinyl, complete with graphics, 
and is attached to the stern pulpit with
simple fasteners around the pulpit supports. It covers the stern completely 
when she is at the dock, comes off/on relatively easily and
has kept the sun off the transom. 
 
Its hard to know if or how much it has helped because I have no 'control' to 
compare it with but it certainly
has kept the awlgrip shine on the stern at the same level as the hull, which 
does not receive as much
direct sun.

YMMV,

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
 
cenel...@aol.com

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Stus-List LED cabin lighting

[Charlie Nelson via CnC-List]

I need to replace all the cabin lights/fixtures on my 36XL/kcb and am thinking 
of a white/red combo LED for all 0r some of them. 
 
I mostly race her so the lights don't get used very often. I want to get 
something that is relatively inexpensive, will not
rust/tarnish (forget about the traditional brass stuff) and most importantly 
will work reliably after long periods of no use.
They probably will be powered by the house 12V--I tried battery operated (in 
the housing) and these were a total waste of money
since the batteries corroded faster than they lost their charge!
 
I am talking about forward and aft cabin lights (~ 6 total) which mount to the 
ceiling with built in switches for on-off and white/red. 
The housings on these will be exposed--visible so that 'ribbon' type LEDs are 
out.

In the main cabin, I need 4 that will be mounted under the 'shelves' and thus 
the housings are not important. I also need 2 that
would be mounted in the forward cabin corners for reading and 2 in the 
'ceiling', all of which would be exposed so the housing is important. 

I thought I might go with one source for consistency and maybe save some money. 

I am looking for suggestions from the list before I decide.

Thanks in advance, 

Charlie Nelson
1995 C 36 XL/kcb
Water Phantom


 
cenel...@aol.com

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Re: Stus-List Wax; now repaint (and thin no more)

[David via CnC-List]

Jim...interesting.  Where did you get the vinyl?


David F. Risch

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650



From: CnC-List  on behalf of detroito91 via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 12:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: detroito91
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax; now repaint (and thin no more)

I took a different approach on the transom.
Sanded the transom then applied blue vinyl. From local sign company . Then i 
was able to apply vinyl graphics onto that. No adhesive used
Jim schwartz
38 landfall
SEA YA!
Washington nc

 Original message 
From: bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
Date: 4/25/18 11:30 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bushma...@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax; now repaint (and thin no more)

David, I would like to see photos of your project as well; before and after if 
possible?  Many thanks

Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River; (on the hard-undergoing a complete 
bottom job)

Richard N. Bush
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462
502-584-7255


-Original Message-
From: David via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: David 
Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2018 11:22 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax

David,

My flag blue transom on my 40 is pretty bad too.  After good luck with 
repainting the boot stripe and my Dyer Dhow I decided to strip the transom and 
DIY repaint with Awlgrip.  Apparently Awlgrip is roller/brush friendly.  I will 
let you know how it turns out.

David F. Risch
Gulf Stream Associates, LLC
(401) 419-4650



From: CnC-List  on behalf of David Knecht via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 11:15 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax

I have generally had good luck with Poliglow despite it not being recommended 
for Awlgrip.  I had used it to great effect on my previous boat, and when I 
bought this boat, the topsides were pretty sad and I got lots of compliments on 
the look after Poliglow treatment.  Now, 5 years later, the boat really needs a 
new paint job.  I decided new sails were more important, so putting that off 
for a few years.  It looks fine from 100 ft. so hoping to be that far in front 
of the competition.  Painting looks like a PITA job as DIY and expensive as 
professional.  In the meantime, the reverse angle transom is really in bad 
shape- mottled and patchy in color presumably because it gets more sun.  I took 
the Poliglow off with Poliprep and it still looks pretty bad.  What would be 
the most aggressive thing to try on the Awlgrip to make it look better before 
reapplying Poliglow?  I tried Poly-ox and that had little effect.  I am 
guessing that there is nothing else to do at this point, but awaiting the 
wisdom of the list.  Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[X]

On Apr 23, 2018, at 11:44 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
> wrote:

My experience with Polyglow was poor. Initially it looked good. Unfortunately, 
it soon showed lots of dark pollution streaks on a light colored surface. It 
was difficult to remove.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or


___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Wax; now repaint (and thin no more)

[detroito91 via CnC-List]

I took a different approach on the transom.Sanded the transom then applied blue 
vinyl. From local sign company . Then i was able to apply vinyl graphics onto 
that. No adhesive usedJim schwartz 38 landfall SEA YA!Washington nc 
 Original message From: bushmark4--- via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/25/18  11:30 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: bushma...@aol.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax; now 
repaint (and thin no more) 

 David, I would like to see photos of your project as well; before and after if 
possible?  Many thanks



 





Richard


s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River; (on the hard-undergoing a complete 
bottom job)



Richard N. Bush 

2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine

Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 

502-584-7255


 



 



-Original Message-

From: David via CnC-List 

To: cnc-list 

Cc: David 

Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2018 11:22 am

Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax






#AOLMsgPart_1.2_057cf5ce-de69-4768-9ee0-dd5075d7e02b td{color: black;}  
.aolReplacedBody P {margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;} 




David,








My flag blue transom on my 40 is pretty bad too.  After good luck with 
repainting the boot stripe and my Dyer Dhow I decided to strip the transom and 
DIY repaint with Awlgrip.  Apparently Awlgrip is roller/brush friendly. 
 I will let you know how it turns out.















David F. Risch


Gulf
Stream
Associates,
LLC






(401) 419-4650 


















From: CnC-List  on behalf of David Knecht via 
CnC-List 


Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 11:15 AM


To: CnC CnC discussion list


Cc: David Knecht


Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax

 




I have generally had good luck with Poliglow despite it not being recommended 
for Awlgrip.  I had used it to great effect on my previous boat, and when I 
bought this boat, the topsides were pretty sad and I got lots
 of compliments on the look after Poliglow treatment.  Now, 5 years later, the 
boat really needs a new paint job.  I decided new sails were more important, so 
putting that off for a few years.  It looks fine from 100 ft. so hoping to be 
that far in front of
 the competition.  Painting looks like a PITA job as DIY and expensive as 
professional.  In the meantime, the reverse angle transom is really in bad 
shape- mottled and patchy in color presumably because it gets more sun.  I took 
the Poliglow off with Poliprep
 and it still looks pretty bad.  What would be the most aggressive thing to try 
on the Awlgrip to make it look better before reapplying Poliglow?  I tried 
Poly-ox and that had little effect.  I am guessing that there is nothing else 
to do at this point, but
 awaiting the wisdom of the list.  Dave










Aries



1990 C 34+



New London, CT















On Apr 23, 2018, at 11:44 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List  
wrote:








My experience with Polyglow was poor. Initially it looked good. Unfortunately, 
it soon showed lots of dark pollution streaks on a light colored surface. It 
was difficult to remove. 








Fred Hazzard 


S/V Fury 


C 44


Portland, Or




























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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray




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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Wax

[David via CnC-List]

Well seeing as we board Corsair via the transom ladder quite often from the 
dinghy...not sure if that is an argument for or against!


David F. Risch

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650



From: CnC-List  on behalf of Danny Haughey via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 12:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Danny Haughey
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax

My brother rolled and tipped a whole 55 foot trawler with awlgrip.  It looked 
awesome from 5 feet away!



Thanks,
Danny

 Original message 
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
Date: 4/25/18 11:55 AM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list 
Cc: Joel Aronson 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax

I'd make sure Awl-Grip is roller friendly.  I think spraying is recommended.

I just did my bimini with 2 part Epiphanes.  Sets up quickly, comes out smooth, 
hard and shiny.  You need to do small areas and tip as soon as you roll.

Joel

On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 11:51 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Hi David- I had planned on using something other than Awlgrip as the inability 
to repair that stuff is annoying.  There is a useful Practical Sailor 3 year 
test that I found useful.  They recommend Interlux Perfection or Epifanes 2 
parts.  Dave
https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_24/features/Topside-Paint-Endurance-Test-3-Year-Checkup_10942-1.html

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[X]

On Apr 25, 2018, at 11:21 AM, David via CnC-List 
> wrote:

David,

My flag blue transom on my 40 is pretty bad too.  After good luck with 
repainting the boot stripe and my Dyer Dhow I decided to strip the transom and 
DIY repaint with Awlgrip.  Apparently Awlgrip is roller/brush friendly.  I will 
let you know how it turns out.

David F. Risch
Gulf Stream Associates, LLC
(401) 419-4650



From: CnC-List 
> on behalf 
of David Knecht via CnC-List 
>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 11:15 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax

I have generally had good luck with Poliglow despite it not being recommended 
for Awlgrip.  I had used it to great effect on my previous boat, and when I 
bought this boat, the topsides were pretty sad and I got lots of compliments on 
the look after Poliglow treatment.  Now, 5 years later, the boat really needs a 
new paint job.  I decided new sails were more important, so putting that off 
for a few years.  It looks fine from 100 ft. so hoping to be that far in front 
of the competition.  Painting looks like a PITA job as DIY and expensive as 
professional.  In the meantime, the reverse angle transom is really in bad 
shape- mottled and patchy in color presumably because it gets more sun.  I took 
the Poliglow off with Poliprep and it still looks pretty bad.  What would be 
the most aggressive thing to try on the Awlgrip to make it look better before 
reapplying Poliglow?  I tried Poly-ox and that had little effect.  I am 
guessing that there is nothing else to do at this point, but awaiting the 
wisdom of the list.  Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[X]

On Apr 23, 2018, at 11:44 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
> wrote:

My experience with Polyglow was poor. Initially it looked good. Unfortunately, 
it soon showed lots of dark pollution streaks on a light colored surface. It 
was difficult to remove.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or


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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Wax

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

My brother rolled and tipped a whole 55 foot trawler with awlgrip.  It looked 
awesome from 5 feet away! 


Thanks, Danny
 Original message From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 Date: 4/25/18  11:55 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list 
 Cc: Joel Aronson  Subject: Re: 
Stus-List Wax 
I'd make sure Awl-Grip is roller friendly.  I think spraying is recommended.
I just did my bimini with 2 part Epiphanes.  Sets up quickly, comes out smooth, 
hard and shiny.  You need to do small areas and tip as soon as you roll.
Joel
On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 11:51 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
 wrote:
Hi David- I had planned on using something other than Awlgrip as the inability 
to repair that stuff is annoying.  There is a useful Practical Sailor 3 year 
test that I found useful.  They recommend Interlux Perfection or Epifanes 2 
parts.  
Davehttps://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_24/features/Topside-Paint-Endurance-Test-3-Year-Checkup_10942-1.html


Aries1990 C 34+New London, CT




On Apr 25, 2018, at 11:21 AM, David via CnC-List  wrote:
David,
My flag blue transom on my 40 is pretty bad too.  After good luck with 
repainting the boot stripe and my Dyer Dhow I decided to strip the transom and 
DIY repaint with Awlgrip.  Apparently Awlgrip is roller/brush friendly.  I will 
let you know how it turns out.

David F. RischGulf Stream Associates, LLC
(401) 419-4650 


From: CnC-List  on behalf of David Knecht via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 11:15 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax I have generally had good luck with Poliglow despite 
it not being recommended for Awlgrip.  I had used it to great effect on my 
previous boat, and when I bought this boat, the topsides were pretty sad and I 
got lots of compliments on the look after Poliglow treatment.  Now, 5 years 
later, the boat really needs a new paint job.  I decided new sails were more 
important, so putting that off for a few years.  It looks fine from 100 ft. so 
hoping to be that far in front of the competition.  Painting looks like a PITA 
job as DIY and expensive as professional.  In the meantime, the reverse angle 
transom is really in bad shape- mottled and patchy in color presumably because 
it gets more sun.  I took the Poliglow off with Poliprep and it still looks 
pretty bad.  What would be the most aggressive thing to try on the Awlgrip to 
make it look better before reapplying Poliglow?  I tried Poly-ox and that had 
little effect.  I am guessing that there is nothing else to do at this point, 
but awaiting the wisdom of the list.  Dave
Aries1990 C 34+New London, CT

On Apr 23, 2018, at 11:44 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List  
wrote:
My experience with Polyglow was poor. Initially it looked good. Unfortunately, 
it soon showed lots of dark pollution streaks on a light colored surface. It 
was difficult to remove. 
Fred Hazzard S/V Fury C 44Portland, Or

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___



Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray







-- 
Joel 
301 541 8551

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Re: Stus-List Wax

[David via CnC-List]

Thanks for the feedback.


Awlgrip is roller/brush friendly.  The easier to repair Awlcraft is not.  
Bummer.


Good info on Perfection.  May go that route, but thought Awlgrip on Awlgrip 
would match better, but will reconsider.


I read where Awlgrip does not take well to anything more aggressive that what 
3M's Finesse can provide.   Something about a very narrow window of buffing 
success and most likely melting the paint.


Anyway my transom is well beyond that and is now stripped and sanded ready for 
final prep and a weather window.


David F. Risch

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650



From: CnC-List  on behalf of Joel Aronson via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 11:55 AM
To: cnc-list
Cc: Joel Aronson
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax

I'd make sure Awl-Grip is roller friendly.  I think spraying is recommended.

I just did my bimini with 2 part Epiphanes.  Sets up quickly, comes out smooth, 
hard and shiny.  You need to do small areas and tip as soon as you roll.

Joel

On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 11:51 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Hi David- I had planned on using something other than Awlgrip as the inability 
to repair that stuff is annoying.  There is a useful Practical Sailor 3 year 
test that I found useful.  They recommend Interlux Perfection or Epifanes 2 
parts.  Dave
https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_24/features/Topside-Paint-Endurance-Test-3-Year-Checkup_10942-1.html

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:4073BE72-4704-4EA7-8EBA-B73B833F502B]

On Apr 25, 2018, at 11:21 AM, David via CnC-List 
> wrote:

David,

My flag blue transom on my 40 is pretty bad too.  After good luck with 
repainting the boot stripe and my Dyer Dhow I decided to strip the transom and 
DIY repaint with Awlgrip.  Apparently Awlgrip is roller/brush friendly.  I will 
let you know how it turns out.

David F. Risch
Gulf Stream Associates, LLC
(401) 419-4650



From: CnC-List 
> on behalf 
of David Knecht via CnC-List 
>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 11:15 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax

I have generally had good luck with Poliglow despite it not being recommended 
for Awlgrip.  I had used it to great effect on my previous boat, and when I 
bought this boat, the topsides were pretty sad and I got lots of compliments on 
the look after Poliglow treatment.  Now, 5 years later, the boat really needs a 
new paint job.  I decided new sails were more important, so putting that off 
for a few years.  It looks fine from 100 ft. so hoping to be that far in front 
of the competition.  Painting looks like a PITA job as DIY and expensive as 
professional.  In the meantime, the reverse angle transom is really in bad 
shape- mottled and patchy in color presumably because it gets more sun.  I took 
the Poliglow off with Poliprep and it still looks pretty bad.  What would be 
the most aggressive thing to try on the Awlgrip to make it look better before 
reapplying Poliglow?  I tried Poly-ox and that had little effect.  I am 
guessing that there is nothing else to do at this point, but awaiting the 
wisdom of the list.  Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:4073BE72-4704-4EA7-8EBA-B73B833F502B]

On Apr 23, 2018, at 11:44 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
> wrote:

My experience with Polyglow was poor. Initially it looked good. Unfortunately, 
it soon showed lots of dark pollution streaks on a light colored surface. It 
was difficult to remove.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or


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___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray





--
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Wax

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

I'd make sure Awl-Grip is roller friendly.  I think spraying is recommended.

I just did my bimini with 2 part Epiphanes.  Sets up quickly, comes out
smooth, hard and shiny.  You need to do small areas and tip as soon as you
roll.

Joel

On Wed, Apr 25, 2018 at 11:51 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi David- I had planned on using something other than Awlgrip as the
> inability to repair that stuff is annoying.  There is a useful Practical
> Sailor 3 year test that I found useful.  They recommend Interlux Perfection
> or Epifanes 2 parts.  Dave
> https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_24/features/
> Topside-Paint-Endurance-Test-3-Year-Checkup_10942-1.html
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Apr 25, 2018, at 11:21 AM, David via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> David,
>
> My flag blue transom on my 40 is pretty bad too.  After good luck with
> repainting the boot stripe and my Dyer Dhow I decided to strip the transom
> and DIY repaint with Awlgrip.  Apparently Awlgrip is roller/brush
> friendly.  I will let you know how it turns out.
>
> *David F. Risch*
> *Gulf Stream Associates, LLC*
> *(401) 419-4650 *
>
>
> --
> *From:* CnC-List  on behalf of David
> Knecht via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, April 25, 2018 11:15 AM
> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list
> *Cc:* David Knecht
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Wax
>
> I have generally had good luck with Poliglow despite it not being
> recommended for Awlgrip.  I had used it to great effect on my previous
> boat, and when I bought this boat, the topsides were pretty sad and I got
> lots of compliments on the look after Poliglow treatment.  Now, 5 years
> later, the boat really needs a new paint job.  I decided new sails were
> more important, so putting that off for a few years.  It looks fine from
> 100 ft. so hoping to be that far in front of the competition.  Painting
> looks like a PITA job as DIY and expensive as professional.  In the
> meantime, the reverse angle transom is really in bad shape- mottled and
> patchy in color presumably because it gets more sun.  I took the Poliglow
> off with Poliprep and it still looks pretty bad.  What would be the most
> aggressive thing to try on the Awlgrip to make it look better before
> reapplying Poliglow?  I tried Poly-ox and that had little effect.  I am
> guessing that there is nothing else to do at this point, but awaiting the
> wisdom of the list.  Dave
>
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
> On Apr 23, 2018, at 11:44 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> My experience with Polyglow was poor. Initially it looked good.
> Unfortunately, it soon showed lots of dark pollution streaks on a light
> colored surface. It was difficult to remove.
>
> Fred Hazzard
> S/V Fury
> C 44
> Portland, Or
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Wax

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

Couldn't you bring that paint back to life with some rubbing compound and a
orbital buffer? As long as the paint has enough thickness, I would think
that would be worth a try - it would be a fairly cheap experiment, at least.

I have done amazing things I would have never thought possible with buffing
compound. I just went out to look for a part#, but the label is long gone,
but I am sure it was 3M somethingorother.

 

Bill Coleman

C 39 Erie, PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 11:22 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax

 

David,

 

My flag blue transom on my 40 is pretty bad too.  After good luck with
repainting the boot stripe and my Dyer Dhow I decided to strip the transom
and DIY repaint with Awlgrip.  Apparently Awlgrip is roller/brush friendly.
I will let you know how it turns out.

 

David F. Risch

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List  on behalf of David Knecht via
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 11:15 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax 

 

I have generally had good luck with Poliglow despite it not being
recommended for Awlgrip.  I had used it to great effect on my previous boat,
and when I bought this boat, the topsides were pretty sad and I got lots of
compliments on the look after Poliglow treatment.  Now, 5 years later, the
boat really needs a new paint job.  I decided new sails were more important,
so putting that off for a few years.  It looks fine from 100 ft. so hoping
to be that far in front of the competition.  Painting looks like a PITA job
as DIY and expensive as professional.  In the meantime, the reverse angle
transom is really in bad shape- mottled and patchy in color presumably
because it gets more sun.  I took the Poliglow off with Poliprep and it
still looks pretty bad.  What would be the most aggressive thing to try on
the Awlgrip to make it look better before reapplying Poliglow?  I tried
Poly-ox and that had little effect.  I am guessing that there is nothing
else to do at this point, but awaiting the wisdom of the list.  Dave 

 

Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

On Apr 23, 2018, at 11:44 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List
 wrote:

 

My experience with Polyglow was poor. Initially it looked good.
Unfortunately, it soon showed lots of dark pollution streaks on a light
colored surface. It was difficult to remove. 

 

Fred Hazzard 

S/V Fury 

C 44

Portland, Or

 

 

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Wax

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

Hi David- I had planned on using something other than Awlgrip as the inability 
to repair that stuff is annoying.  There is a useful Practical Sailor 3 year 
test that I found useful.  They recommend Interlux Perfection or Epifanes 2 
parts.  Dave
https://www.practical-sailor.com/issues/37_24/features/Topside-Paint-Endurance-Test-3-Year-Checkup_10942-1.html

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Apr 25, 2018, at 11:21 AM, David via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> David,
> 
> My flag blue transom on my 40 is pretty bad too.  After good luck with 
> repainting the boot stripe and my Dyer Dhow I decided to strip the transom 
> and DIY repaint with Awlgrip.  Apparently Awlgrip is roller/brush friendly.  
> I will let you know how it turns out.
> 
> David F. Risch
> Gulf Stream Associates, LLC
> (401) 419-4650 
> 
> 
> From: CnC-List  on behalf of David Knecht via 
> CnC-List 
> Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 11:15 AM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list
> Cc: David Knecht
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax
>  
> I have generally had good luck with Poliglow despite it not being recommended 
> for Awlgrip.  I had used it to great effect on my previous boat, and when I 
> bought this boat, the topsides were pretty sad and I got lots of compliments 
> on the look after Poliglow treatment.  Now, 5 years later, the boat really 
> needs a new paint job.  I decided new sails were more important, so putting 
> that off for a few years.  It looks fine from 100 ft. so hoping to be that 
> far in front of the competition.  Painting looks like a PITA job as DIY and 
> expensive as professional.  In the meantime, the reverse angle transom is 
> really in bad shape- mottled and patchy in color presumably because it gets 
> more sun.  I took the Poliglow off with Poliprep and it still looks pretty 
> bad.  What would be the most aggressive thing to try on the Awlgrip to make 
> it look better before reapplying Poliglow?  I tried Poly-ox and that had 
> little effect.  I am guessing that there is nothing else to do at this point, 
> but awaiting the wisdom of the list.  Dave
> 
> Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
>> On Apr 23, 2018, at 11:44 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
>> > wrote:
>> 
>> My experience with Polyglow was poor. Initially it looked good. 
>> Unfortunately, it soon showed lots of dark pollution streaks on a light 
>> colored surface. It was difficult to remove. 
>> 
>> Fred Hazzard 
>> S/V Fury 
>> C 44
>> Portland, Or
>> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
> 
___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Wax

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I noticed on the Poliglow site that they have a new stripper which appears
to be more powerful than Poli-prep. If I would have had more time this year,
I would have tried it on my transom. I did use some floor stripper which
helped, but something more suited to Poli would be nice. But, sailing calls.
Mast up today or tomorrow, whenever the spreader boots arrive.

 

Gary

Eastern Shore of Maryland

 

From: CnC-List  On Behalf Of David Knecht via
CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 11:15 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list 
Cc: David Knecht 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax

 

I have generally had good luck with Poliglow despite it not being
recommended for Awlgrip.  I had used it to great effect on my previous boat,
and when I bought this boat, the topsides were pretty sad and I got lots of
compliments on the look after Poliglow treatment.  Now, 5 years later, the
boat really needs a new paint job.  I decided new sails were more important,
so putting that off for a few years.  It looks fine from 100 ft. so hoping
to be that far in front of the competition.  Painting looks like a PITA job
as DIY and expensive as professional.  In the meantime, the reverse angle
transom is really in bad shape- mottled and patchy in color presumably
because it gets more sun.  I took the Poliglow off with Poliprep and it
still looks pretty bad.  What would be the most aggressive thing to try on
the Awlgrip to make it look better before reapplying Poliglow?  I tried
Poly-ox and that had little effect.  I am guessing that there is nothing
else to do at this point, but awaiting the wisdom of the list.  Dave

 

Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




 

On Apr 23, 2018, at 11:44 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List
 > wrote:

 

My experience with Polyglow was poor. Initially it looked good.
Unfortunately, it soon showed lots of dark pollution streaks on a light
colored surface. It was difficult to remove. 

 

Fred Hazzard 

S/V Fury 

C 44

Portland, Or

 

 

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Re: Stus-List Wax; now repaint (and thin no more)

[bushmark4--- via CnC-List]

 David, I would like to see photos of your project as well; before and after if 
possible?  Many thanks

 


Richard
s/v Bushmark4: 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River; (on the hard-undergoing a complete 
bottom job)

Richard N. Bush 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
502-584-7255

 

 

-Original Message-
From: David via CnC-List 
To: cnc-list 
Cc: David 
Sent: Wed, Apr 25, 2018 11:22 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax



David,


My flag blue transom on my 40 is pretty bad too.  After good luck with 
repainting the boot stripe and my Dyer Dhow I decided to strip the transom and 
DIY repaint with Awlgrip.  Apparently Awlgrip is roller/brush friendly.  I will 
let you know how it turns out.




David F. Risch
GulfStreamAssociates,LLC

(401) 419-4650 





From: CnC-List  on behalf of David Knecht via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 11:15 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax
 

I have generally had good luck with Poliglow despite it not being recommended 
for Awlgrip.  I had used it to great effect on my previous boat, and when I 
bought this boat, the topsides were pretty sad and I got lots of compliments on 
the look after Poliglow treatment.  Now, 5 years later, the boat really needs a 
new paint job.  I decided new sails were more important, so putting that off 
for a few years.  It looks fine from 100 ft. so hoping to be that far in front 
of the competition.  Painting looks like a PITA job as DIY and expensive as 
professional.  In the meantime, the reverse angle transom is really in bad 
shape- mottled and patchy in color presumably because it gets more sun.  I took 
the Poliglow off with Poliprep and it still looks pretty bad.  What would be 
the most aggressive thing to try on the Awlgrip to make it look better before 
reapplying Poliglow?  I tried Poly-ox and that had little effect.  I am 
guessing that there is nothing else to do at this point, but awaiting the 
wisdom of the list.  Dave



Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT





On Apr 23, 2018, at 11:44 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List  
wrote:



My experience with Polyglow was poor. Initially it looked good. Unfortunately, 
it soon showed lots of dark pollution streaks on a light colored surface. It 
was difficult to remove. 


Fred Hazzard 
S/V Fury 
C 44
Portland, Or







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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray


___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
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Re: Stus-List Wax

[David via CnC-List]

David,


My flag blue transom on my 40 is pretty bad too.  After good luck with 
repainting the boot stripe and my Dyer Dhow I decided to strip the transom and 
DIY repaint with Awlgrip.  Apparently Awlgrip is roller/brush friendly.  I will 
let you know how it turns out.


David F. Risch

Gulf Stream Associates, LLC

(401) 419-4650



From: CnC-List  on behalf of David Knecht via 
CnC-List 
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2018 11:15 AM
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Cc: David Knecht
Subject: Re: Stus-List Wax

I have generally had good luck with Poliglow despite it not being recommended 
for Awlgrip.  I had used it to great effect on my previous boat, and when I 
bought this boat, the topsides were pretty sad and I got lots of compliments on 
the look after Poliglow treatment.  Now, 5 years later, the boat really needs a 
new paint job.  I decided new sails were more important, so putting that off 
for a few years.  It looks fine from 100 ft. so hoping to be that far in front 
of the competition.  Painting looks like a PITA job as DIY and expensive as 
professional.  In the meantime, the reverse angle transom is really in bad 
shape- mottled and patchy in color presumably because it gets more sun.  I took 
the Poliglow off with Poliprep and it still looks pretty bad.  What would be 
the most aggressive thing to try on the Awlgrip to make it look better before 
reapplying Poliglow?  I tried Poly-ox and that had little effect.  I am 
guessing that there is nothing else to do at this point, but awaiting the 
wisdom of the list.  Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

[cid:4073BE72-4704-4EA7-8EBA-B73B833F502B]

On Apr 23, 2018, at 11:44 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
> wrote:

My experience with Polyglow was poor. Initially it looked good. Unfortunately, 
it soon showed lots of dark pollution streaks on a light colored surface. It 
was difficult to remove.

Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or


___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Wax

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I have generally had good luck with Poliglow despite it not being recommended 
for Awlgrip.  I had used it to great effect on my previous boat, and when I 
bought this boat, the topsides were pretty sad and I got lots of compliments on 
the look after Poliglow treatment.  Now, 5 years later, the boat really needs a 
new paint job.  I decided new sails were more important, so putting that off 
for a few years.  It looks fine from 100 ft. so hoping to be that far in front 
of the competition.  Painting looks like a PITA job as DIY and expensive as 
professional.  In the meantime, the reverse angle transom is really in bad 
shape- mottled and patchy in color presumably because it gets more sun.  I took 
the Poliglow off with Poliprep and it still looks pretty bad.  What would be 
the most aggressive thing to try on the Awlgrip to make it look better before 
reapplying Poliglow?  I tried Poly-ox and that had little effect.  I am 
guessing that there is nothing else to do at this point, but awaiting the 
wisdom of the list.  Dave

Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



> On Apr 23, 2018, at 11:44 AM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> My experience with Polyglow was poor. Initially it looked good. 
> Unfortunately, it soon showed lots of dark pollution streaks on a light 
> colored surface. It was difficult to remove. 
> 
> Fred Hazzard 
> S/V Fury 
> C 44
> Portland, Or
> 

___

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every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray