Re: Stus-List Mast Wire Question

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

I have something like that on my 77’ 25.  It runs down the mast (I believe) and 
forward in the cabin to the bow where it runs down into the bilge.  It’s been a 
while since I looked at it, but that’s what my memory is.   It’s a thick black 
wire.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 Icicle
Fort Pierce Fl

On Mar 11, 2019, at 12:25 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Beats me, my 1980 version has nothing like that. Just wiring to the wind 
instrument and VHF antenna at the top. Lower down, there’s wiring for the 
steaming light/deck light combination.

Gary
30-1 #593
St. Michaels
From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Steven A. Demore via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 11:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steven A. Demore mailto:sdem...@computer.org>>
Subject: Stus-List Mast Wire Question

I have the mast of my C 30 MK1 down for rebuild right now.  Just replaced the 
wiring and found a cable I’m not sure about.  It is a heavy gauge stranded 
single conductor wire, maybe 1/8 or 3/16, with a thick red insulation on it.  
If I had to guess, a heavy ground wire.  There is about 20 feet of cable coiled 
at the base of the mast and it goes all the way to the top of the mast, where 
it just sticks out 6 or 12 inches.

Did these boats have lightning rods or something originally?  Is there 
something that a big ground wire would do that a 45 foot hunk of aluminum 
wouldn’t do?  I’m afraid to ask this one, as it is probably a religious 
argument, but should the mast (or a lightning rod??) be grounded to a keel bolt 
or something?  If there is supposed to be a lightning rod, does anybody have a 
picture of one and how it is mounted?

Thanks,
Steve

SV Doin’ It Right
1973 C 30 MK1
Pasadena, MD

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Re: Stus-List Mast Wire Question

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

I have something like that on my 77’ 25.  It runs down the mast (I believe) and 
forward in the cabin to the bow where it runs down into the bilge.  It’s been a 
while since I looked at it, but that’s what my memory is.   It’s a thick black 
wire.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 Icicle
Fort Pierce Fl

On Mar 11, 2019, at 12:25 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Beats me, my 1980 version has nothing like that. Just wiring to the wind 
instrument and VHF antenna at the top. Lower down, there’s wiring for the 
steaming light/deck light combination.

Gary
30-1 #593
St. Michaels
From: CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> On Behalf 
Of Steven A. Demore via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, March 10, 2019 11:15 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Steven A. Demore mailto:sdem...@computer.org>>
Subject: Stus-List Mast Wire Question

I have the mast of my C 30 MK1 down for rebuild right now.  Just replaced the 
wiring and found a cable I’m not sure about.  It is a heavy gauge stranded 
single conductor wire, maybe 1/8 or 3/16, with a thick red insulation on it.  
If I had to guess, a heavy ground wire.  There is about 20 feet of cable coiled 
at the base of the mast and it goes all the way to the top of the mast, where 
it just sticks out 6 or 12 inches.

Did these boats have lightning rods or something originally?  Is there 
something that a big ground wire would do that a 45 foot hunk of aluminum 
wouldn’t do?  I’m afraid to ask this one, as it is probably a religious 
argument, but should the mast (or a lightning rod??) be grounded to a keel bolt 
or something?  If there is supposed to be a lightning rod, does anybody have a 
picture of one and how it is mounted?

Thanks,
Steve

SV Doin’ It Right
1973 C 30 MK1
Pasadena, MD

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Re: Stus-List Sealant for chainplates.

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

I second the butyl tape.   I've found it to be the best long term solution.  
But make sure to get the stuff from Compass Marine.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 Icicle

On Apr 10, 2018, at 9:23 AM, Glenn Gambel via CnC-List 
> wrote:

I rebedded Wind N Spirits chainplates with 4000. Worked great and no more 
leaking.

-- Original Message --
From: "Glen Eddie via CnC-List" 
>
To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
>
Cc: "Glen Eddie" >
Sent: 4/10/2018 8:18:32 AM
Subject: Stus-List Sealant for chainplates.


Can someone with a 35 mkI or II let me know the sealant used at the deck when 
rebedding a chainplate.  4000?

Your assistance is much appreciated.




Glen Eddie
Tel: 416-777-5357
Fax: 1-888-812-2557
ged...@torkinmanes.com
VCard

Torkin Manes LLP
Barristers & Solicitors

151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500
Toronto ON M5C 2W7
torkinmanes.com

An international member of Ally Law

This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this 
message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. Thank 
you.

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Re: Stus-List Removing caulk residue

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

McKanica makes a silicone remover that has worked very well for me.  It's a gel 
that you put on the silicone.  After an hour or so it breaks down and comes 
right off.  It's on Amazon.

Mark

On Jan 15, 2017, at 8:23 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
> wrote:

I've been carefully scraping with a single edge razor blade.  It still leaves a 
residue...

I'm thinking the caulk is probably silicone.

Danny



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

 Original message 
From: G Collins via CnC-List 
>
Date: 1/15/17 7:02 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: G Collins >
Subject: Re: Stus-List Removing caulk residue


get a 1" chisel, very carefully use it to scrape the surface clean.  It might 
be best to round off the corners of the chisel if you are not sure of your 
hand...

Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11

On 2017-01-15 7:48 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List wrote:
Hello all,
I'm in the process of replacing all my hatches.  I've removed them and trying 
to clean the surface where they bed.  I have the de-bond marine product.  I 
applied that and scraped again but,  there is still residue.

Anyone have a secret method to get that surface clean?  I'm going to try 
something abrasive like scotch Brite pads.

Danny



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device



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Re: Stus-List C 25 mk I keel bolt torque

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks Dennis.  I found that chart a while back and for some reason didn't see 
the "other" section.  I recently fixed the "C smile" with G Flex 650 and read 
it's a good idea to retorque the keel bolts.  I plan to retorque them next the 
boat's out if the water.  Thanks again and I'll follow your tip.

Mark

On Jan 2, 2017, at 4:31 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Mark,

It depends on the bolt size.  Here's the direct link to the specs:

http://cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/torquebolts/torquebolts.htm

To get there from the C album home page, click "Technical Info" in the left 
side bar.

Make sure you back off the nuts then tighten.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jan 2, 2017 at 11:53 AM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello,

Does anyone know the 25 mk I keel bolt torque specs.  I checked the manual and 
didn't find anything.

Thanks a lot and Happy New Year!

Mark
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Stus-List C 25 mk I keel bolt torque

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hello,

Does anyone know the 25 mk I keel bolt torque specs.  I checked the manual and 
didn't find anything.  

Thanks a lot and Happy New Year!

Mark
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Re: Stus-List Standing Rigging Rust

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks Josh.  What worries me is the spiral rust running up all the shrouds and 
the backstay.  Has anyone ever seen something like this?  It seems like perhaps 
one strand in the line is rusting.   It's like a barber pole or a candy cane 
stripe.

Thanks,

Mark

On Nov 12, 2016, at 11:37 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


As you mentioned the tools used to cut and crimp the terminals are usually 
carbon steel.  During the tooling process some of those iron ions transfer to 
the tooled item and subsequently rust.  If the rig was just replaced I would 
say that it is most likely that.  Most chandleries sell bronze wool which will 
clean this "rust" right up.  The bronze is softer than the stainless so it 
won't scratch and it won't leave more iron ions to rust in the future.   If 
you're still concerned you can use a high power magnifying glass to examine for 
pitting or cracks in the metal where the rust was.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Nov 12, 2016 10:58 PM, "Mark McMenamy via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello All,

Less than a year ago I had the standing rigging replaced on our C 25.  
Recently I noticed some rust on the turnbuckles.  Also, there is rust on the 
lines that runs in a spiral pattern all the way up.  I called our local rigger 
and he offered to take a look, but be's been so busy that I'm still waiting.  
From what I understand the dyes in the steel can cause this which is no big 
deal, or it could be a bad batch of steel.   Has anyone ever come across this?  
I wonder how to tell the difference.  Any thoughts or opinions are appreciated. 
 I had the rigging replaced at a yard near where we bought the boat which is 
150 miles away so we could sail it home which makes things more complicated.

Thanks as always,

Mark McMenamy
Ft Pierce FL
C 25 "Icicle"
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Stus-List Standing Rigging Rust

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hello All,

Less than a year ago I had the standing rigging replaced on our C 25.  
Recently I noticed some rust on the turnbuckles.  Also, there is rust on the 
lines that runs in a spiral pattern all the way up.  I called our local rigger 
and he offered to take a look, but be's been so busy that I'm still waiting.  
From what I understand the dyes in the steel can cause this which is no big 
deal, or it could be a bad batch of steel.   Has anyone ever come across this?  
I wonder how to tell the difference.  Any thoughts or opinions are appreciated. 
 I had the rigging replaced at a yard near where we bought the boat which is 
150 miles away so we could sail it home which makes things more complicated.

Thanks as always,

Mark McMenamy
Ft Pierce FL
C 25 "Icicle"
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Re: Stus-List C 25 galley extenstion

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Yes!

Thanks Rick.

Mark

> On Oct 16, 2016, at 9:51 AM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Mark,
> 
> Are these what you're looking for?
> http://www.perko.com/catalog/cabinet_hardware/369/table_brackets/
> 
> 
> Rick Taillieu
> Shearwater Yacht Club
> Halifax, NS.
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
> McMenamy via CnC-List
> Sent: October-16-16 10:16
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Mark McMenamy
> Subject: Stus-List C 25 galley extenstion
> 
> Hello all,
> 
> I was looking at a C 25 on sailingtexas.com and it had what looked like a
> 1 foot by 1 foot plug in extension for the galley.  I have hardware on each
> side above the foot wells that looks like it could receive a two pieces that
> could slide in.   Does this ring a bell with anybody?  It'd be great to some
> how get ahold of the hardware and make the extensions if I needed to.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Mark
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
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> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> -
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2016.0.7797 / Virus Database: 4664/13219 - Release Date: 10/16/16
> 
> 
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> 
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Stus-List C 25 galley extenstion

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hello all,

I was looking at a C 25 on sailingtexas.com and it had what looked like a 1 
foot by 1 foot plug in extension for the galley.  I have hardware on each side 
above the foot wells that looks like it could receive a two pieces that could 
slide in.   Does this ring a bell with anybody?  It'd be great to some how get 
ahold of the hardware and make the extensions if I needed to.

Thanks,

Mark
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Re: Stus-List Small hull dent C 25

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks Joshsounds like good advice.I'll take it!

On Aug 23, 2016, at 10:25 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Without seeing it I say you're fine.  I'm no fiberglass expert but I suggest 
you go sailing.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Aug 23, 2016 10:18 PM, "Mark McMenamy via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello Everyone,

The previous owner added an outboard engine and reinforced the transom with an 
aluminum backing plate.  The plate is held in place with the bolts for the 
motor mount as well as three bolts along the bottom of the transom.  The bolts 
are above the water line.  The backing plate inside presses against a glob of 
fiberglass resin on one corner.  This should have been ground out, but wasn't 
and as result it has caused a small dime sized raised bit on the outside of the 
transom.  It's only a couple millimeters high.  It's hard to see, but you can 
feel it with your finger.  The gel coat has fine hairline cracks that haven't 
increased in size for 6 months.  I'm not a fiberglass expert and was wondering 
if I need to worry about any  possible structural issues?   From what I 
understand fiberglass is pretty flexible.

Thanks a lot as always for your help,

Mark McMenamy
C 25 Icicle
Fort Pierce FL
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Stus-List Small hull dent C 25

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hello Everyone,

The previous owner added an outboard engine and reinforced the transom with an 
aluminum backing plate.  The plate is held in place with the bolts for the 
motor mount as well as three bolts along the bottom of the transom.  The bolts 
are above the water line.  The backing plate inside presses against a glob of 
fiberglass resin on one corner.  This should have been ground out, but wasn't 
and as result it has caused a small dime sized raised bit on the outside of the 
transom.  It's only a couple millimeters high.  It's hard to see, but you can 
feel it with your finger.  The gel coat has fine hairline cracks that haven't 
increased in size for 6 months.  I'm not a fiberglass expert and was wondering 
if I need to worry about any  possible structural issues?   From what I 
understand fiberglass is pretty flexible.

Thanks a lot as always for your help,

Mark McMenamy
C 25 Icicle
Fort Pierce FL
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Re: Stus-List Solvent for Silicone

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hi Randy,

I've been using the MCKANICA Silicone Caulk Remover and have had very good 
results.   It dissolves the silicone quite well and it's very easy to remove.  
It works in 10-15 minutes.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On Aug 6, 2016, at 3:52 PM, RANDY via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Listers-

My exterior handrail replacement project is underway - began removing the 
handrails today.  The bases of the exterior handrails were bedded to the 
cabintop gelcoat with what appears to be some kind of silicone-like substance.  
Can anybody recommend a good solvent for that stuff?  I tried goo-gone and it 
wouldn't dissolve the stuff.  Want to get that gelcoat clean before bedding the 
bases of the new handrails.

Thanks in Advance,
Randy
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Re: Stus-List Two Prong DC outlet

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks everyone for all the great ideas.  I really appreciate the help.  For 
the time being I just replaced the Perko outlet as it wasn't very expensive and 
it was an easy project.  I sprayed corrosion blocker before connecting and 
sealed the connecting boot off with Life Seal to keep the spray off.But I 
think I'm going to move all the cable connections down below as you all 
have.when things cool off down here.   Thanks again.  This list is such an 
awesome resource.

Have a good weekend!

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On Jul 29, 2016, at 5:56 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:


On Fri, Jul 29, 2016 at 3:36 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
> wrote:
Finally a couple years ago I saw these
https://www.bluesea.com/products/1003/CableClam_1.40in and the problem was
solved.
In my future boat anything removable that needs to go through the deck will
have one of these


I heartily second the Cable Clam.  It is the ONLY fitting I use and recommend 
for deck penetrations.  Been installing them for years with no issues.  It 
would be a good solution for wiring for a deck stepped mast with a terminal 
strip below.

The Scanstrut recommended in another reply looks very similar but I haven't 
tried one.

BTW, I'm kinda anal about some mast cables.  Touche' has cables that run all 
the way to the instrument server or display or breaker panel.  If I pull the 
rig, I'll have to pull those back through the cabinetry to the base of the mast.

Dennis C.
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Stus-List Two Prong DC outlet

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hello Everyone,

A while back I posted I was having trouble with my anchor light flickering and 
going out.  I traced the problem to the outlet at the base of the mast.  It's 
just a smidge too loose to make good contact all the time.  There is a split on 
each prong of the plug which I have made bigger in order to get better contact, 
but the connection still fails unless I push the plug to one side or the other. 
  Before I pull the outlet and replace it, I wondered if anyone had any ideas?  
 I've also cleaned the outlet as best as I could.  There was some corrosion, 
but it's gone now.

As always, thanks a lot.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
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Re: Stus-List Dull red hull

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hi Frank,

I just did my boat with Aurora Marine Boat Shine.  It worked very well.  
There's a two part wash, then you buff the hull with a product called EZ Buff, 
and then give it two coats of Boat Shine which applies and is removed like a 
traditional wax.  I was really amazed how my C 25 shined up.   It was a lot 
of work, but she looks great and according to Aurora, the shine should last up 
to a year.time will tell.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On Jul 20, 2016, at 10:27 PM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List 
> wrote:

  My friend has a C with a red hull.  I would like to polish it with 
something to bring back the original color.  Many years ago I could buy a car 
polish that would do the job.  I assume that there are new products available 
today.  Any suggestions?

Frank
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Re: Stus-List C 25 ice box

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks Rick.  I wonder how much room in between the ice chest and the cabinet 
that there is to actually insulate.  I was thinking of giving up some interior 
space and adding 1" of foam with some type of protective barrier to the inside 
of the cooler. 

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

> On Jul 10, 2016, at 10:20 AM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Mark,
> 
> The 25's icebox isn't insulated very well if at all.
> Unfortunately you pretty much have to disassemble the cabinetry around the
> icebox to properly add any insulation.
> You might be able to take out the screws around the top of the liner and
> slide it out the top to gain access to the inside, if not then the counter
> top has to come off.
> I don't have the stock icebox in my boat, I had to rebuild it when I bought
> the boat.
> A previous owner had removed it to get more foot room in the slide-out
> berth.
> 
> 
> Rick Taillieu
> Nemesis
> '75 C 25  #371
> Shearwater Yacht Club
> Halifax, NS.
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
> McMenamy via CnC-List
> Sent: July-10-16 10:44
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Mark McMenamy
> Subject: Stus-List C 25 ice box
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I've noticed that my ice chest doesn't seem to keep ice very long.  Does
> anyone know how these are insulated?  Also, any ideas to increase the
> insulation are much appreciated.
> 
> Thanks a lot.
> 
> Mark McMenamy
> C 25 "Icicle"
> Fort Pierce FL
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> -
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2016.0.7640 / Virus Database: 4613/12592 - Release Date: 07/10/16
> 
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Stus-List C 25 ice box

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hello everyone,

I've noticed that my ice chest doesn't seem to keep ice very long.  Does anyone 
know how these are insulated?  Also, any ideas to increase the insulation are 
much appreciated.

Thanks a lot.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
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Re: Stus-List C 25Intermittent Anchor Light

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

I'm not quite sure if it's a new bulb, or an entire new assembly.  I'm waiting 
for the yard to call me back with the model.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On Jun 29, 2016, at 8:06 PM, BillBinaList via CnC-List 
> wrote:


>From the description in the original post, it sounds as if this is a complete 
>new LED assembly, and not just an LED substituted for an incandescent lamp in 
>an old fixture. In these assemblies, there is no "socket" the LED's are 
>soldered directly into the circuit board, and the assembly is permanently 
>sealed.

Bill Bina

On 6/29/2016 7:02 PM, mike amirault via CnC-List wrote:
In all likelihood, it is the socket that the LED bulb is mounted on. Those 
cheap sockets are notorious for corrosion and no amount of regulation is going 
to prevent the LED from flickering.  Go up the mast with a bit of sandpaper and 
some contact cleaner and I am willing to bet you will find your problem.
Don't over think it.

Mike Amirault
C 33ii Lovely Cruise
SMSC  N.S.



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Re: Stus-List C 25Intermittent Anchor Light

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks Bill...good advice.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On Jun 29, 2016, at 9:24 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Probably wouldn't hurt to call tech support at the manufacture before you go up 
the mast. They may have some tips for how to do a comprehensive evaluation. 
They might even offer to send you a new unit in advance before you go up, with 
the agreement to send back the defective one to avoid being charged. Some 
manufacturers do that. They sell you a new one, and issue a full refund as soon 
as you send the old one back.

On 6/29/2016 9:12 AM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List wrote:
I just reread your post and saw that it's 'built in'.  Looks like a trip up the 
mast.   Thanks.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On Jun 29, 2016, at 8:02 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
<<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
 wrote:


That LED, regardless of brand, has a built in regulator circuit. That is true 
even of LED replacement lamps put in the original incandescent fixture. It 
sounds as if your regulator is defective. That the light is sometimes dim is 
the giveaway. The regulator is designed (when working properly) to make up for 
incoming voltage that is either lower or higher than required.

Bill Bina

On 6/29/2016 7:17 AM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List wrote:

Hello Everyone,

I'm having a problem with my anchor light and would appreciate some advice.  
Three months ago I had an LED anchor light installed and my mast rewired.  
Things have been working perfectly but now my anchor light is working 
intermittently.  At times it is dim, or flickers, or shuts off.  I climbed down 
into the locker and worked all the wires and connections to see if I had a bad 
connection and replaced the fuse as well.  It has the original electrical panel 
with the fuses.  As all the wiring from the switch to the top of the mast is 
new, I was thinking the problem is at the panel.  Before I tore it apart I 
thought I'd ask for and thoughts or opinions.

Thanks a lot.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
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Re: Stus-List C 25Intermittent Anchor Light

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

I just reread your post and saw that it's 'built in'.  Looks like a trip up the 
mast.   Thanks.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On Jun 29, 2016, at 8:02 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


That LED, regardless of brand, has a built in regulator circuit. That is true 
even of LED replacement lamps put in the original incandescent fixture. It 
sounds as if your regulator is defective. That the light is sometimes dim is 
the giveaway. The regulator is designed (when working properly) to make up for 
incoming voltage that is either lower or higher than required.

Bill Bina

On 6/29/2016 7:17 AM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List wrote:

Hello Everyone,

I'm having a problem with my anchor light and would appreciate some advice.  
Three months ago I had an LED anchor light installed and my mast rewired.  
Things have been working perfectly but now my anchor light is working 
intermittently.  At times it is dim, or flickers, or shuts off.  I climbed down 
into the locker and worked all the wires and connections to see if I had a bad 
connection and replaced the fuse as well.  It has the original electrical panel 
with the fuses.  As all the wiring from the switch to the top of the mast is 
new, I was thinking the problem is at the panel.  Before I tore it apart I 
thought I'd ask for and thoughts or opinions.

Thanks a lot.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
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Re: Stus-List C 25Intermittent Anchor Light

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks Bill.  I'm guessing that the regulator is up at top of the mast with 
light?   Do I need to replace the whole assembly?

Thanks,

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On Jun 29, 2016, at 8:02 AM, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


That LED, regardless of brand, has a built in regulator circuit. That is true 
even of LED replacement lamps put in the original incandescent fixture. It 
sounds as if your regulator is defective. That the light is sometimes dim is 
the giveaway. The regulator is designed (when working properly) to make up for 
incoming voltage that is either lower or higher than required.

Bill Bina

On 6/29/2016 7:17 AM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List wrote:

Hello Everyone,

I'm having a problem with my anchor light and would appreciate some advice.  
Three months ago I had an LED anchor light installed and my mast rewired.  
Things have been working perfectly but now my anchor light is working 
intermittently.  At times it is dim, or flickers, or shuts off.  I climbed down 
into the locker and worked all the wires and connections to see if I had a bad 
connection and replaced the fuse as well.  It has the original electrical panel 
with the fuses.  As all the wiring from the switch to the top of the mast is 
new, I was thinking the problem is at the panel.  Before I tore it apart I 
thought I'd ask for and thoughts or opinions.

Thanks a lot.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
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Stus-List C 25Intermittent Anchor Light

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hello Everyone,

I'm having a problem with my anchor light and would appreciate some advice.  
Three months ago I had an LED anchor light installed and my mast rewired.  
Things have been working perfectly but now my anchor light is working 
intermittently.  At times it is dim, or flickers, or shuts off.  I climbed down 
into the locker and worked all the wires and connections to see if I had a bad 
connection and replaced the fuse as well.  It has the original electrical panel 
with the fuses.  As all the wiring from the switch to the top of the mast is 
new, I was thinking the problem is at the panel.  Before I tore it apart I 
thought I'd ask for and thoughts or opinions.

Thanks a lot.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
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Re: Stus-List Boat for sale

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Same hereI wish you both well.  I'm sorry about the boat.

Take care,

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

> On May 17, 2016, at 7:03 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> I am not in the market for another boat, but here is hoping both you and your 
> wife have a speedy recovery.
> Joe
> Coquina
> C 35 MK I
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill 
> Connon via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, May 17, 2016 12:12 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Bill Connon
> Subject: Stus-List Boat for sale
> 
> All,
> 
> I've decided that it's time to sell my C My wife is seriously ill and my 
> own physical condition has gone downhill from old hockey, football and car 
> accident injuries. I listed the boat on the local Kijiji site and also with 
> Boulet-Lemelin in Quebec City.
> http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1978/C%26C-36-2959463/NEW-RICHMOND/Canada#.VzqV7BOgswK
> We live in a lightly populated area and so far have had very few inquiries. 
> I'm wondering if there might be some interest in the Chaleur Bay - 
> Northumberland Strait area.
> 
> Bill Connon
> 
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> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
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Re: Stus-List Outboard motor bracket

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Great.  Thanks a lot.  I bought one today.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

> On May 16, 2016, at 9:28 AM, Bmue via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi mark,
> We put a garelick motor mount on. Makes lifting the outboard a breeze. 
> Sometimes it can be a bit difficult to get it in the lowest position. But 
> would definitely recommend.
> Installed with an aluminium backing plate . 
> http://www.marineoutfitters.ca/mobile/?page=shop=10025%7C11386%7C11388=37208895.
> Make sure you take the weight of the motor into account when determining 
> installation height of the mount. 
> 
> Bettina
> C 25 Savannah
> 
>> On May 15, 2016, at 21:26, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Hello all,
>> 
>> I've figured out that my outboard motor bracket is a Garlick model rated for 
>> two stroke models rated at 85 lbs.  The previous owner put on a four stroke 
>> at 120 lbs so I need to replace the bracket.  Has anyone done this?My 
>> transom is reinforced with an aluminum sheet and is very sturdy so that's 
>> taken care of.   I was thinking if going to a Garlick model that is rated 
>> for four strokes.  There are two models and I was thinking of buying the 
>> heavier duty of the two that gives 15" of travel.  I was also thinking of 
>> just putting a fixed mount on the back as I only use the electric trim to 
>> tilt the motor up.  Any opinions on this idea?   Any advice is greatly 
>> appreciated.
>> 
>> Thanks!
>> 
>> Mark McMenamy
>> C 25 "Icicle"
>> Fort Pierce FL
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>> 
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>> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
>> are greatly appreciated!
> 
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> are greatly appreciated!

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Stus-List Outboard motor bracket

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hello all,

I've figured out that my outboard motor bracket is a Garlick model rated for 
two stroke models rated at 85 lbs.  The previous owner put on a four stroke at 
120 lbs so I need to replace the bracket.  Has anyone done this?My transom 
is reinforced with an aluminum sheet and is very sturdy so that's taken care 
of.   I was thinking if going to a Garlick model that is rated for four 
strokes.  There are two models and I was thinking of buying the heavier duty of 
the two that gives 15" of travel.  I was also thinking of just putting a fixed 
mount on the back as I only use the electric trim to tilt the motor up.  Any 
opinions on this idea?   Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
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Re: Stus-List C 25 leak

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

I don't have any holes in the settee lockers.  Are there holes in both the fore 
and aft lockers? Or just the aft?  I wonder if I could just drill a hole or two 
on the inside of each locker?

I have never buried the rail on my C 25.  I do get a little water in the 
bilge after a rain, but its not excessive.  I also have a window leaking.  I 
was going to try a little Captain Trolly first.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On May 1, 2016, at 11:16 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

My 25, a MK1 HIN 225, has been very dry for the 22 years I've owned her. So dry 
I don't have a bilge pump except the OEM hand pump in the cockpit sole, and I 
dry out the bilge with a sponge every 6 months or so. Maybe I'm just lucky.

But on my boat there are small limber holes (maybe (1/2)" diameter) in the 
bottom inside seam of the lockers under each settee. And that makes me want to 
ask if your bilge is dry when you take the boat out for a sail?

If I had water in the small bilge of the 25, and sailed at an extreme angle of 
heel (she is fastest with only 15-18 degrees of heel in my experience), some of 
the water would migrate from the bilge to the lockers.

I find it hard to envision spending enough time with the toerail in the water 
to get water ingress through the hull to deck joint, and a leak between the 
deck and toerail would let water in during a rain storm.

Rick Brass
Imzadi  C 38 mk 2
la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sailnomad 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2016 5:05 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Sailnomad <sailno...@gmail.com<mailto:sailno...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 leak

I have the same problem too, but it is in the bilge, and does not seem tn be 
related to heeling or sailing.
Ahmet
Winthrop, MA
C "Tabasco"

On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 3:27 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I have water in each of the aft storage bins under the settees.  When it rains 
no water accumulates, but when we go for a sail there will be a small amount of 
water in each bin.  After I dry it out, it stays dry until we go for a sail.   
What I'm thinking is there is a leak in the seal in between the topsides and 
the hull seam, and sea spray forces its way into the hull on the down wind 
side.   I was thinking that I need to tighten the bolts along the toe rail that 
hold the topsides to the hull.  I've read online that you hold the screw steady 
on top and turn the bolt underneath.  I believe there is butyl tape in between 
the hull and the topsides.   I was thinking of giving each bolt a 1/4 turn.  Is 
my thinking on this correct?

Thanks a lot for your help.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
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Re: Stus-List Outboard engine removal

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

It's a Suzuki 9.9.  The previous owner put it on.  It's already a heavy engine 
and its got power tilt and electric start.

With regards to the dock behind the boat, there's also a metal pipe running the 
length of the dock the engine will have to go over to get to the dock.  I could 
wrap a towel or something to protect the engine, but it seems to me that it 
might just be easier to walk the engine across  the transom to the finger pier 
which is lower and without any obstructions.

The engine is heavy and hasn't run well since I bought the boat in December.  
It's still under warranty so I'm going to take it to the shop.  It's a 2013.  
I'm also considering just selling the thing and replacing it with a Yamaha or 
Tohatsu.

Thanks a lot for the advice.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On May 1, 2016, at 11:32 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I tend to agree with Dennis.

The 9.9 Tohatsu on Bell weighs around 80 pounds. The dock is about 18" to 2' 
above the transom. I put a safety line on the motor (in case I dropped it), sat 
down on the edge of the dock, and just pulled the motor up off the mount and 
slid it onto the dock. Not pretty but very doable.

123 pounds sounds pretty heavy, how large is the engine?

Rick Brass
Imzadi  C 38 mk 2
la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C. 
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, May 01, 2016 8:42 PM
To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Dennis C. <capt...@gmail.com<mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Outboard engine removal

Just put a tag line on the motor.  Have a buddy stand on the main dock and man 
the tag line.  Use the halyard to lift it up to the level of the main dock.  
Buddy pulls it over the main dock and you lower it.
If there's a cleat on the main dock on the far side, wrap the tag line around 
it for better control.

Dennis C.

On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 7:08 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Dennis,

I do back the boat and dock it stern first. However, the dock behind the boat 
is a good 3 feet higher than the transom and I think it'd be difficult to lift 
it that high.  There is a finger pier to starboard that is the same level as 
the boat.  I was thinking of raising the motor with the halyard and move it 
across the back of the boat and lay it down on the pier.  Or I could bring it 
around the port backstay, through the cockpit, and up onto the pier.  I'd much 
rather use just the halyard since it won't require using a boom extension.


Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On May 1, 2016, at 7:41 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
The Admiral and I use a halyard to lift and/return Touche's early 80's vintage 
Evinrude 7.5 from the starboard cockpit locker all the time.  It's pretty easy 
to maneuver it and put it on the transom of the dinghy which is usually tied 
midships.

Should work for the transom.  Once the load is on the halyard, you really don't 
need a lot of effort to swing it around.  The angle from the masthead to the 
transom isn't that great.
Can you put the boat in the slip stern in?  If so, just take the load on the 
halyard and have a friend standing on the dock pull it aft and then put it on 
the pier.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 5:00 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I'm getting ready to remove my outboard engine and take it to be worked on.  
I'd like to leave it in the slip to avoid pullout costs as well ask to avoid 
the risk of ruining my bottom paint should it need to be out more than 72 
hours.  Looking online I came up with a system where I'm planning on lashing a 
4x4 to the boom.

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Re: Stus-List Outboard engine removal

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Coolthanks Dennis...sounds like a plan.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On May 1, 2016, at 8:42 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Just put a tag line on the motor.  Have a buddy stand on the main dock and man 
the tag line.  Use the halyard to lift it up to the level of the main dock.  
Buddy pulls it over the main dock and you lower it.

If there's a cleat on the main dock on the far side, wrap the tag line around 
it for better control.

Dennis C.

On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 7:08 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Dennis,

I do back the boat and dock it stern first. However, the dock behind the boat 
is a good 3 feet higher than the transom and I think it'd be difficult to lift 
it that high.  There is a finger pier to starboard that is the same level as 
the boat.  I was thinking of raising the motor with the halyard and move it 
across the back of the boat and lay it down on the pier.  Or I could bring it 
around the port backstay, through the cockpit, and up onto the pier.  I'd much 
rather use just the halyard since it won't require using a boom extension.


Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On May 1, 2016, at 7:41 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

The Admiral and I use a halyard to lift and/return Touche's early 80's vintage 
Evinrude 7.5 from the starboard cockpit locker all the time.  It's pretty easy 
to maneuver it and put it on the transom of the dinghy which is usually tied 
midships.

Should work for the transom.  Once the load is on the halyard, you really don't 
need a lot of effort to swing it around.  The angle from the masthead to the 
transom isn't that great.

Can you put the boat in the slip stern in?  If so, just take the load on the 
halyard and have a friend standing on the dock pull it aft and then put it on 
the pier.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 5:00 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I'm getting ready to remove my outboard engine and take it to be worked on.  
I'd like to leave it in the slip to avoid pullout costs as well ask to avoid 
the risk of ruining my bottom paint should it need to be out more than 72 
hours.  Looking online I came up with a system where I'm planning on lashing a 
4x4 to the boom.

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Re: Stus-List Outboard engine removal

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,

I do back the boat and dock it stern first. However, the dock behind the boat 
is a good 3 feet higher than the transom and I think it'd be difficult to lift 
it that high.  There is a finger pier to starboard that is the same level as 
the boat.  I was thinking of raising the motor with the halyard and move it 
across the back of the boat and lay it down on the pier.  Or I could bring it 
around the port backstay, through the cockpit, and up onto the pier.  I'd much 
rather use just the halyard since it won't require using a boom extension.


Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On May 1, 2016, at 7:41 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

The Admiral and I use a halyard to lift and/return Touche's early 80's vintage 
Evinrude 7.5 from the starboard cockpit locker all the time.  It's pretty easy 
to maneuver it and put it on the transom of the dinghy which is usually tied 
midships.

Should work for the transom.  Once the load is on the halyard, you really don't 
need a lot of effort to swing it around.  The angle from the masthead to the 
transom isn't that great.

Can you put the boat in the slip stern in?  If so, just take the load on the 
halyard and have a friend standing on the dock pull it aft and then put it on 
the pier.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 5:00 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I'm getting ready to remove my outboard engine and take it to be worked on.  
I'd like to leave it in the slip to avoid pullout costs as well ask to avoid 
the risk of ruining my bottom paint should it need to be out more than 72 
hours.  Looking online I came up with a system where I'm planning on lashing a 
4x4 to the boom.

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Re: Stus-List C 25 leak

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Great...thanks a lot for the replies.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On May 1, 2016, at 5:06 PM, Sailnomad via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I have the same problem too, but it is in the bilge, and does not seem tn be 
related to heeling or sailing.
Ahmet
Winthrop, MA
C "Tabasco"

On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 3:27 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I have water in each of the aft storage bins under the settees.  When it rains 
no water accumulates, but when we go for a sail there will be a small amount of 
water in each bin.  After I dry it out, it stays dry until we go for a sail.   
What I'm thinking is there is a leak in the seal in between the topsides and 
the hull seam, and sea spray forces its way into the hull on the down wind 
side.   I was thinking that I need to tighten the bolts along the toe rail that 
hold the topsides to the hull.  I've read online that you hold the screw steady 
on top and turn the bolt underneath.  I believe there is butyl tape in between 
the hull and the topsides.   I was thinking of giving each bolt a 1/4 turn.  Is 
my thinking on this correct?

Thanks a lot for your help.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
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Stus-List Outboard engine removal

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hello everyone,

I'm getting ready to remove my outboard engine and take it to be worked on.  
I'd like to leave it in the slip to avoid pullout costs as well ask to avoid 
the risk of ruining my bottom paint should it need to be out more than 72 
hours.  Looking online I came up with a system where I'm planning on lashing a 
4x4 to the boom.  Out at the motor end I'm going to screw an eye bolt on top 
and attach the main halyard.  I'll also have the topping lift as a backup, but 
it will be attached on it's normal point on the boom.  The load will be borne 
by the halyard.  Underneath the 4x4 I will have a power puller lever type winch 
and run the line through an eye bolt and down to a harness on the engine.  My 
plan is to winch up the engine and swing to boom over to the dock and then 
lower.  Because of the split backstay I'll have to angle the boat in the slip.  
The motor is 123 lbs and the dock is 2.5-3 feet above the boat, so I'm worried 
about just trying to muscle it onto the dock.  Anybody ever done 
 this?  Does this sound crazy?

Initially I was thinking of just hooking the halyard directly to the engine and 
winching it up while a friend guided it out, but I was worried about the 
angular force applied against the motor in its bracket.

Thanks for your advice.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
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Re: Stus-List C 25 leak

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,

Thanks for the reply.  I was worried about squeezing out the butyl tape as 
well.  I like your captain trolly idea.  Do you apply it up underneath the hull 
joint on the side of the boat?

Yes.  It's really not an excessive leak.  After a sail I may have 1/4 cup of 
water to pull out.

Thanks,

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On May 1, 2016, at 4:23 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Mark,

Leaks in the hull/deck joint are not uncommon.  However, one must consider 
whether the leak is from under the rub rail due to excessive heeling and wave 
action or from water ingress through the deck/toe rail interface or from the 
fasteners.  Don't think that because it doesn't leak except when sailing that 
the deck/toe rail interface isn't the source.  The deck/toe rail interface may 
well leak as the boat flexes while sailing but does not leak while the boat is 
at rest.

Your solution may be correct with one very significant caveat.  Tightening the 
bolts will compress the butyl sealant and sailing the boat may result in 
additional leakage.  A few iterations of this may result in no sealant 
remaining.

I tightened the bolts once when first got Touche' later deciding it may not be 
the best practice.  Now I use multiple applications of Captain Tolley's 
Creeping Crack Cure along the deck/toe rail interface.  Capt Tolley's "creeps" 
into the joint and cures forming a seal.  I repeat applications every 2-3 years.

While I may get some leakage due to extreme heeling, I'd be content to let that 
happen and either sponge out the compartments or drill limber holes to let the 
water drain to the bilge.

Just my 2 cents worth.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 2:27 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello everyone,

I have water in each of the aft storage bins under the settees.  When it rains 
no water accumulates, but when we go for a sail there will be a small amount of 
water in each bin.  After I dry it out, it stays dry until we go for a sail.   
What I'm thinking is there is a leak in the seal in between the topsides and 
the hull seam, and sea spray forces its way into the hull on the down wind 
side.   I was thinking that I need to tighten the bolts along the toe rail that 
hold the topsides to the hull.  I've read online that you hold the screw steady 
on top and turn the bolt underneath.  I believe there is butyl tape in between 
the hull and the topsides.   I was thinking of giving each bolt a 1/4 turn.  Is 
my thinking on this correct?

Thanks a lot for your help.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
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Stus-List C 25 leak

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hello everyone,

I have water in each of the aft storage bins under the settees.  When it rains 
no water accumulates, but when we go for a sail there will be a small amount of 
water in each bin.  After I dry it out, it stays dry until we go for a sail.   
What I'm thinking is there is a leak in the seal in between the topsides and 
the hull seam, and sea spray forces its way into the hull on the down wind 
side.   I was thinking that I need to tighten the bolts along the toe rail that 
hold the topsides to the hull.  I've read online that you hold the screw steady 
on top and turn the bolt underneath.  I believe there is butyl tape in between 
the hull and the topsides.   I was thinking of giving each bolt a 1/4 turn.  Is 
my thinking on this correct?

Thanks a lot for your help.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
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Re: Stus-List Tohatsu Outboard

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Great.  Thanks a lot.  I was a little a little concerned about not having a 
friction lock, looks like a non issue though.  My Suzuki has been a pain.  I 
may replace it with a Tohatsu.  Sounds like a good deal.

Thanks again, 

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

> On Apr 28, 2016, at 5:45 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
> wrote:
> 
> Two comments.
> 
> 1. The six and I believe newer 9.9 have a thumb set screw to lock in centered 
> position
> 
> 2. +1 on the forces when comes in and out of water hobbyhorsing. We had a 
> motor mount break in half sending a one year old tohatsu 6 hl to the bottom 
> over 150 Ft below. That and a previous theft is why we bought three over 
> three seasons. However liked the motor so much always bought one identical
> 
> Mike
> Formerly
> Nut Case
> 1987 J27
> Halifax, ns
> 
> From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of Chuck Gilchrest 
> via CnC-List [cnc-list@cnc-list.com]
> Sent: April 27, 2016 8:39 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Chuck Gilchrest
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Tohatsu Outboard
> 
> Hi Mark,
> My recently sold C 25 had a Tohatsu (Nissan) 9.8 Long shaft electric
> start.  Generally a good motor and was the lightest of the 9.8 electric
> starts on the market, making it a good choice for the somewhat flimsy
> transom on the 25.   If I had to choose again, I would suggest the Extra
> Long Shaft (25" leg) over the standard long shaft.  In hobby horse
> conditions on Buzzards Bay, it wasn't unusual for the prop to come out of
> the water which put a significant strain on the engine bracket attachment
> when the prop dropped back in the water.  I also liked that it had an
> alternator that would charge the dual purpose battery on the boat.
> Maintenance wise, the engine ran fairly reliably but was sensitive to fuel
> that sat in the carb for more than 2-3 weeks.  I bought mine in 2007 and
> rebuilt and cleaned the carburetor at least 4 times due to fuel issues.  One
> other thing I would have liked would have been a steering lock on the engine
> which would have allowed the engine to be locked in on center when motoring
> for any distance.  When the motor was revved, the engine tended to self
> steer counter clockwise, which meant I often had to hold the boat tiller in
> one hand and the engine tiller in the other.  Perhaps other brands of engine
> have a steering lock component that would prevent this.
> Lowering the engine meant reaching over the transom and pulling up a lever
> that held the engine in the tilt position and then slowly easing the engine
> down.  Lifting the engine became more of an issue after an engine lift lock
> on the motor that attached to the shift mechanism became detached, meaning
> it needed to be actuated manually on the engine leg.  Not a huge problem,
> but a bit of a pain.  With a long shaft or Extra long shaft, you will need
> to tilt the engine to get it to come completely out of the water when it is
> mounted to a transom bracket, even if the bracket has a lifting component to
> it.
> Even with the simple issues I've mentioned, it was a vast improvement over
> the Evinrude 9.9 Sail Twin it replaced, both in terms of noise, fuel
> economy, and reliability.
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1983 LF 35
> Padanaram, MA
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
> McMenamy via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, April 27, 2016 7:15 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com>
> Subject: Stus-List Tohatsu Outboard
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I was thinking of replacing my Suzuki 9.9 with a Tohatsu 9.8.  Does anybody
> have any experience with these?  Also, to save weight I was considering the
> manual tilt.  I was curious if it's difficult to raise and lower?
> 
> Mark McMenamy
> C 25 "Icicle"
> Fort Pierce FL
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!

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Re: Stus-List Tohatsu Outboard

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Greatthanks a lot for the replies.  I really appreciate it.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On Apr 27, 2016, at 7:43 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I had a 2008 tohatsu on my O'day 22 for about 4 years before I sold the boat 
with the engine.  We were very happy with it.  I could raise and lower it 
myself, it was heavy but,  the bracket wasn't in the best shape. It had 
electric start but would pull start quite easily.

Best price at the time was onlineoutboards.com<http://onlineoutboards.com>

Danny



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message --------
From: Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 4/27/2016 7:14 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com<mailto:markm...@msn.com>>
Subject: Stus-List Tohatsu Outboard

Hello,

I was thinking of replacing my Suzuki 9.9 with a Tohatsu 9.8.  Does anybody 
have any experience with these?  Also, to save weight I was considering the 
manual tilt.  I was curious if it's difficult to raise and lower?

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
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Stus-List Tohatsu Outboard

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hello,

I was thinking of replacing my Suzuki 9.9 with a Tohatsu 9.8.  Does anybody 
have any experience with these?  Also, to save weight I was considering the 
manual tilt.  I was curious if it's difficult to raise and lower?

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
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Re: Stus-List Remove silicone

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks.  I've been looking for something to remove silicone as well.  I'll give 
it a try.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On Apr 2, 2016, at 5:19 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Frank,
 Try Mckanica silicon caulk remover.  Worked for me.  It still takes a bit 
of elbow grease, but it does get it off without damaging the gelcoat.  >From 
Amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Mckanica-Caulk-3-Oz-Silicone/dp/B000PVT1P4?ie=UTF8=1=true_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Sat, Apr 2, 2016 at 4:32 PM, Franklin Schenk via CnC-List 
> wrote:
I am trying to reseal the windows on a C 29.  The previous owner used 
Silicone and I would like to remove it and use the butyl tape.  I read that 
carburetor cleaner works better than acetone.  I am open to any suggestions.

The spacing on the machine screws also appear to be very large.  I was thinking 
about adding a few more screws at 5 to 6 inches apart.

Frank

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Re: Stus-List Rudder crack C 25

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Great. Got it.  Nix the silicone.  Thanks for the ideas.

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

> On Mar 2, 2016, at 11:57 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> There are products that are, supposedly, made for such work: CPES (by
> Rotdoctor) and Git-Rot (BoatLife). Supposedly CPES penetrates better. Both
> of them penetrate better than the normal epoxy resin. 
> 
> However, I have no personal experience on how well they preserve the wood. I
> used Git-Rot in the past on a project almost exactly like yours (rudder on
> my C 24; it seems that they are very similar). The rudder is still in one
> piece (10 years later), but I cannot tell if it is because or despite what I
> did.
> 
> Marek
> C270 "Legato"
> (ex. 1974 C 24 "Fennel")
> Ottawa, ON
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Peter
> Fell via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2016 10:33
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Peter Fell <prf...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder crack C 25
> 
> I'd avoid silicone at all costs  it doesn't last that long and it's near
> impossible to fully remove the residue when re-sealing.
> 
> Others can correct me here but it seems to me the best approach would be to
> remove the gudgeon, enlarge the holes and dig out any punky plywood and let
> the area dry out and re-fill them 1st with clear epoxy (soaks in) and then
> with thickened epoxy. Then once it's cured re-drill the holes.  Same idea as
> putting holes through your cored deck.
> 
> Peter Fell
> Sidney, BC
> Cygnet
> C 27 MkIII
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2016 4:37 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Mark McMenamy
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Rudder crack C 25
> 
> Rick,
> 
> Thanks for the info.  That makes perfect sense.  The surveyor said the lower
> gudgeon was leaking.  When I get it down I'll open it up and put a heat lamp
> on it.  Things like this make me thankful to have a 25.  What a bigger pain
> it'd be if I had to deal with a foam cored rudder with a rusted post.
> 
> Do I seal the gudgeon with silicone, or is there a fitting that needs to be
> replaced?
> 
> Thanks a lot,
> 
> Mark McMenamy
> C 25 "Icicle"
> Fort Pierce FL 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Rudder crack C 25

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Rick,

Thanks for the info.  That makes perfect sense.  The surveyor said the lower 
gudgeon was leaking.  When I get it down I'll open it up and put a heat lamp on 
it.  Things like this make me thankful to have a 25.  What a bigger pain it'd 
be if I had to deal with a foam cored rudder with a rusted post.

Do I seal the gudgeon with silicone, or is there a fitting that needs to be 
replaced?

Thanks a lot,

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

> On Mar 1, 2016, at 5:52 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Hi Mark,
> 
> The rudder on the 25 is pretty simple.  Two fibreglass shells bonded
> together with plywood bonded inside the top third.
> The plywood ends about 1" below the bottom gudgeon fitting, from there to
> the bottom it is hollow.
> There should be a small hole at the bottom of the ruder and another at the
> base of the "L" in the front of the rudder where the balance part extends
> under the hull.
> The hollow part is designed to fill with water so it is important to keep
> these holes open.
> It sounds like the plywood has absorbed some water over the years and has
> slightly swelled, cracking the aft joint.
> Ideally you should take off the rudder and store it inside in a heated room
> and open up the aft seam to expose the plywood to allow it to dry out.
> After the plywood has dried out you can fill the seam to reseal it.
> The wood probably absorbed water from the lower gudgeon mounting holes so
> re-seal them too.
> Pouring some acetone into the crack when you're drying out the rudder may
> help to draw out some of the moisture from the plywood, just keep open flame
> away.
> You should be OK as is for your trip down the ICW since you will be motoring
> all the way.
> 
> 
> Rick Taillieu
> Nemesis
> '75 C 25  #371
> Shearwater Yacht Club
> Halifax, NS.
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark
> McMenamy via CnC-List
> Sent: February-29-16 21:27
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Mark McMenamy
> Subject: Stus-List Rudder crack C 25
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> I have a crack on the aft portion of the rudder where the two halves are
> joined.   From what I can see, It is above the waterline.  Recently I had a
> survey done and the moisture meter said there was some dampness behind the
> crack.  Also, there are three or four dime sized blisters below the
> waterline.  The rudder does not seem to be weeping when removed from the
> water.  The surveyor said the rudder was serviceable but that I'd need to
> fix it in the future.  Any ideas on how to repair my rudder? I saw an
> article online  on how to fix rudder cracks on the side, but I'm not quite
> sure how to fix the aft joint.  Also, the boat is in St Augustine and I need
> to move it to Fort Pierce.  I'm planning on motoring down the ICW in a
> couple weeks.  I'd rather take care of it when I get the boat to it's new
> home.  But I'm curious if you think I should take care of it before I leave.
> 
> Thanks a lot,
> 
> 
> Mark McMenamy
> C 25 "Icicle"
> Fort Pierce FL
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Rudder crack C 25

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks for the reply.  I did a little research and it looks like the rudder is 
hollow with the exception of a wood block at the top of the rudder.  I called 
West System Epoxy this morning.   I'll need to use a Dremel tool and grind out 
a channel where the crack is and fill with epoxy.

Thanks a lot.

Mark

Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL

On Feb 29, 2016, at 10:04 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
> wrote:


I think you'll be fine with moving the boat.

The trouble with rudders is that you need to thoroughly dry them out and that 
is the biggest challenge.  With the season approaching quick I would wait till 
the end of the season.  Depending on how you choose to dry it, it may take 
quite a bit of time.  Remember, most boats have some amount of wellness in the 
rudder.

I paid a hefty price for someone to rebuild my rudder.  He took a bunch of 
pictures showing the whole process.  Check them out here:

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA

My rudder is considerably larger than yours and may be constructed different 
too.  Good luck.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

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Stus-List Rudder crack C 25

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hello everyone,

I have a crack on the aft portion of the rudder where the two halves are 
joined.   From what I can see, It is above the waterline.  Recently I had a 
survey done and the moisture meter said there was some dampness behind the 
crack.  Also, there are three or four dime sized blisters below the waterline.  
The rudder does not seem to be weeping when removed from the water.  The 
surveyor said the rudder was serviceable but that I'd need to fix it in the 
future.  Any ideas on how to repair my rudder? I saw an article online  on how 
to fix rudder cracks on the side, but I'm not quite sure how to fix the aft 
joint.  Also, the boat is in St Augustine and I need to move it to Fort Pierce. 
 I'm planning on motoring down the ICW in a couple weeks.  I'd rather take care 
of it when I get the boat to it's new home.  But I'm curious if you think I 
should take care of it before I leave.

Thanks a lot,




Mark McMenamy
C 25 "Icicle"
Fort Pierce FL
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Re: Stus-List C 25 cockpit table

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Awesome.  Thanks.  My bilge pump is much further back than yours.  My table 
also is offset.  I might have to work a bit to get the proper fit.

Thanks for the shot.

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 27, 2016, at 2:23 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Mark,

Here is a link to a picture of the table base in my cockpit.  You don’t want 
the table too far forward or it will block the companionway.

http://s20.postimg.org/5wxahimxp/DSC_4675.jpg


Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark 
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: January-27-16 09:49
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Mark McMenamy
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 cockpit table

Thanks Mike,

I was thinking about how to work around the cockpit sculpers as well  as the 
bulge pump.  I may just have to move the pump like your friend did.  Thanks for 
the tip.

Yes, the affordability and simplicity of the 25 is what really attracted me to 
the boat, yet it's still very comfortable and capable.  I haven't sailed it yet 
as it's in the yard  now getting new rigging and through hulls, but it may be 
done this week.  Hopefully I'll be able to have a first sail this weekend.I 
don't think I've read a bad thing about this boat.

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 27, 2016, at 8:38 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Mark

Our friends with the 1974 25 “Dry Red” modified the cabin table so that it 
could also be used in cockpit.  They took the original tube that supports the 
table and replaced it with an aluminum tube that was threaded on both ends.  
One end threaded into the receptacle on the underside of the table and then 
they replaced the main cabin receptacle and installed another in cockpit floor 
that were threaded to receive other end of the tube.  End result was a very 
sturdy table both inside and out

Andy moved the manual bilge pump in the cockpit from the floor to the sides and 
epoxied in place the cockpit receptacle where the original location of bilge 
pump was located.

The 25 is one of my favourite C of all time.  It has always been affordable 
but has offered a whole lot of boat and a whole lot of capabilities in a 
smaller affordable package.  At the same time the interior is very usable for 
cruising for 2 people and the performance is nice

Mike
Persistence
Halifax
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick 
Taillieu via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Rick Taillieu
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Mark,

The table was removable on all the C 25s, you may have been thinking of the 
Hinterhoeler built Redline 25s, they predated the C 25s and had a dinette 
that converted into a berth.
There’s no need to reinforce the cockpit floor, just seal the edges of the core 
when you drill the holes for the base and the mounting bolts.
The original base for my table in the cabin broke so I replaced it with the 
round base that you can buy at most chandlers. I used the same fitting for the 
cockpit.
I had to replace it after about five years out here in salt water.  It rotted 
away due to the salt but five years is about the time you would want to remove 
it to reseal it anyway.
It’s so nice to have a table in the cockpit when you’re relaxing after a day of 
sailing, just remember that the mount on the table is slightly offset to one 
side.

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark 
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: January-26-16 18:29
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Mark McMenamy
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Hi Rick,

Thanks for the info!   Did you reinforce the cockpit floor before you added a 
post hole for the table?  I was thinking of doing the same thing.  I read that 
some 25's came from the factory so the table could be moved.

Thanks for the info and the welcome.

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 4:42 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Mark,

Welcome to the list, you’ll love your 25.

The 25 will hobby horse quite a bit in short chop, especially if you have a 
heavy outboard on the back and an anchor on the front.
I have a 25” ELS 4 stroke on my boat and I rarely experience any cavitation in 
waves but I do have stress cracks on the transom.  That’s what happens when you 
replace an 89 pound 2 stroke with a 108 pound 4 stroke.  Mine has a plywood 
backing plate glassed into the transom from the factory and I have a 2” thick, 
one foot square oak spacer betwee

Re: Stus-List C 25 cockpit table

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks Mike,

I was thinking about how to work around the cockpit sculpers as well  as the 
bulge pump.  I may just have to move the pump like your friend did.  Thanks for 
the tip.

Yes, the affordability and simplicity of the 25 is what really attracted me to 
the boat, yet it's still very comfortable and capable.  I haven't sailed it yet 
as it's in the yard  now getting new rigging and through hulls, but it may be 
done this week.  Hopefully I'll be able to have a first sail this weekend.I 
don't think I've read a bad thing about this boat.

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 27, 2016, at 8:38 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Mark

Our friends with the 1974 25 “Dry Red” modified the cabin table so that it 
could also be used in cockpit.  They took the original tube that supports the 
table and replaced it with an aluminum tube that was threaded on both ends.  
One end threaded into the receptacle on the underside of the table and then 
they replaced the main cabin receptacle and installed another in cockpit floor 
that were threaded to receive other end of the tube.  End result was a very 
sturdy table both inside and out

Andy moved the manual bilge pump in the cockpit from the floor to the sides and 
epoxied in place the cockpit receptacle where the original location of bilge 
pump was located.

The 25 is one of my favourite C of all time.  It has always been affordable 
but has offered a whole lot of boat and a whole lot of capabilities in a 
smaller affordable package.  At the same time the interior is very usable for 
cruising for 2 people and the performance is nice

Mike
Persistence
Halifax
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick 
Taillieu via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:23 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Rick Taillieu
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Mark,

The table was removable on all the C 25s, you may have been thinking of the 
Hinterhoeler built Redline 25s, they predated the C 25s and had a dinette 
that converted into a berth.
There’s no need to reinforce the cockpit floor, just seal the edges of the core 
when you drill the holes for the base and the mounting bolts.
The original base for my table in the cabin broke so I replaced it with the 
round base that you can buy at most chandlers. I used the same fitting for the 
cockpit.
I had to replace it after about five years out here in salt water.  It rotted 
away due to the salt but five years is about the time you would want to remove 
it to reseal it anyway.
It’s so nice to have a table in the cockpit when you’re relaxing after a day of 
sailing, just remember that the mount on the table is slightly offset to one 
side.

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark 
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: January-26-16 18:29
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Mark McMenamy
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Hi Rick,

Thanks for the info!   Did you reinforce the cockpit floor before you added a 
post hole for the table?  I was thinking of doing the same thing.  I read that 
some 25's came from the factory so the table could be moved.

Thanks for the info and the welcome.

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 4:42 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Mark,

Welcome to the list, you’ll love your 25.

The 25 will hobby horse quite a bit in short chop, especially if you have a 
heavy outboard on the back and an anchor on the front.
I have a 25” ELS 4 stroke on my boat and I rarely experience any cavitation in 
waves but I do have stress cracks on the transom.  That’s what happens when you 
replace an 89 pound 2 stroke with a 108 pound 4 stroke.  Mine has a plywood 
backing plate glassed into the transom from the factory and I have a 2” thick, 
one foot square oak spacer between the mount and the transom on the outside.  
The oak spacer is there so I can fully tilt the outboard for sailing.

When I lived on Lake Ontario my wife and I would cruise the Thousand Islands 
for 7-10 days every year.  The boat is fine for two to do extended cruises but 
it does tend to get small if you’re stuck inside in rainy weather.  I made a 
boom tent from ripstop nylon that covers the entire cockpit and wraps over the 
lifelines.  It gives us shade and allows us to use the cockpit in all but the 
worst rain storms.  I also put a mount for the table in the cockpit floor so we 
can eat and entertain outside of the main cabin.  I made a plywood board that 
fits across the cabinets at the main hatchway.  It serves as a great bar and a 
place to place for the stove when cooking so the heat stays out of the cabin.

Give me a shout if you have any specific 

Re: Stus-List C 25 MARK 1

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks Jimmy,

That's really neat that you bought one of the first one's off the factory 
floor.   Thanks for the information.  I think this little boat is going to be a 
blast.

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

> On Jan 25, 2016, at 11:17 PM, Jimmy Kelly via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> owned c 25 mk1 one of the first back in jan 1973  purchased from c sales 
> in bronte oakville show room...raced it very succesfully on lake ontario that 
> summer then in late sept  left for south  ...thru oswego canal  erie canal 
> hudson river to atlantic  sailed coast to florida ...ft lauderdale...was 
> approached by c sales at fla. dock  ,,,offered by c much larger custom 
> built bruckmann yacht.,  the c in house custom builder,..took the 
> dealdelivered 25 to ryder  fla yacht sales ..sad parting  but beginning 
> of a life time adventurethey had firm offer for my 25 from person who we 
> raced against in his c designed 27ftmust say of 6 yachts i have sailed 
>   the mk1 25  was best performer  ,best  fun boat, one of best 
> built,,,would have loved to keep both but could not...tried to buy it years 
> later,.but owner not interested25 mk1 best boat i ever ownedbuilt by 
> hinterholler mfg in n on lake  the standard production line of c in feb 
> 1973this model  
 began production mid 1972  & sales slow until 1973..yacht designed by in house 
design with very close direction ..by both georges,cuthbertson...   
second owner of my 25  won more than it share of races over the years 
.jimmy  c design  redline 41 mk1  #1of two built..  currently.southern 
british  columbia canada
> ___
> 
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> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hi Chuck,

I have small hairline stress cracks behind the outboard as well.  I asked the 
yard to look at it.  He wasn't too concerned but asked that I bring it back 
when it is warmer because it's hard to get gel coat to cure with the cold 
weather we've been having.  Behind my transom there is a metal backing plate 
that has been added to greater support the engine.  However, it still has 
gotten some small cracks outside.  I'm wondering what I need to do to keep this 
from happening again after I repair the gel coat.  The metal backing plate is 
kept in place with the motor mount bolts as well as three bolts that go through 
the transom.  The inside metal backing plate is not quite flush with the 
transom due to imperfections in the fiberglass.  The surveyor thought this to 
be the cause of the cracks and recommended removing the engine and the backing 
plate, milling down the fiberglass so it is flat, and reinstalling.  But to be 
honest, it seems like the mount itself just puts too much strain on the transom 
gel coat.  I was wondering if it needed a piece of wood or fiberglass perhaps 
added in between the mount and the transom to disperse the weight of the mount?

Thanks for the help.  Also, I'll look into it he backing plated as well.

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 8:40 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi Mark,
Congratulations on your new 25 Mk1.  I’ve owned Half Magic, a 1975 model 25 Mk 
1 since 2001 and it has served my family and me very well as a casual racer, 
day sailor and weekend cruiser.  If you’re just mounting the outboard and 
upgrading from a smaller and perhaps lighter outboard, you may want to 
reinforce the transom behind the outboard mount.  I upgraded from a 9.9 
Evinrude 2 stroke Sail Twin to a 9.8 Nissan 4 stroke (at the time the lightest 
4 stroke on the market) and have noticed stress cracks on the transom around 
the motor mount caused by the motor hobby horsing in the choppy conditions of 
Buzzards Bay.And my transom has a large ½” marine plywood backing plate 
glassed-in behind the outboard mount that is far larger than the mount.  Bottom 
line, the transom of these boats were not designed for the weight of today’s 
larger outboards.I would have opted for a smaller outboard, but wanted the 
alternator output for charging batteries while motoring as well as the electric 
start for times when you need to get the motor running NOW.  We also have 
several areas in our cruising grounds such as Woods Hole where currents can run 
upwards of 4 kts so having a bit of extra power isn’t a bad thing.

When replacing the standing rigging, it would be an ideal time to remove and 
re-bed the chainplates and covers with 3M 4200 as they are prone to leakage.  
Additionally, many of the boats produced in the mid 1970s had gate valves on 
cockpit drains and through hulls rather than proper ball valve seacocks.   Same 
with hoses and hose clamps.   Replacing them now while your boat is not sailing 
might keep your boat from sinking one day.
Compared to the Capri 25, your boat has way more interior space, and stand up 
headroom for anyone under 5’7” down below.  Not too many 25 ft. boats can brag 
of that!
Welcome to the C list, as it is a great resource and an addictive distraction 
during the work day!
Best,
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 25 Mk1

S/V Orion
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA

Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 8:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com<mailto:markm...@msn.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Hi Ahmet,

I'm lucky to have had the former owner put self tailing winches.  It also has 
new Doyle sails and a new Suzuki 9.9hp outboard.

That's all I have for a HIN.

Mark

On Jan 25, 2016, at 8:31 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Not sure, but I can send you privately my previous discussions.
New standing rigging is a good thing. Is there a plaque on the inside of the 
transom that actually shows the hull id.  ?
I did move the stanctions to the toe-rail, and added a electical bilge pump.
I also replaced the winches with old aftermarket Lewmar T 30 self-tailing 
winches.
I am replacing the washers for the keel bolts because they were very rusty.
Ahmet

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:49 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello,

Thanks for the reply.  It's ZCC255260976.  I'm not quite sure how these forums 
work.  Can I search for what you posted before and save you some typing?

I actually haven't sailed it yet because it needs new standing rigging.  It 
should be finished early next week.  My only experience sailing is a Capri 25 
so I appreciate the feedback.

Thanks,

Mark

On Jan 25, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
<cnc-li

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Also, I'm having the through hulls replaced with proper sea cocks as 
well.but thanks a lot for the thought though!

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 8:40 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi Mark,
Congratulations on your new 25 Mk1.  I’ve owned Half Magic, a 1975 model 25 Mk 
1 since 2001 and it has served my family and me very well as a casual racer, 
day sailor and weekend cruiser.  If you’re just mounting the outboard and 
upgrading from a smaller and perhaps lighter outboard, you may want to 
reinforce the transom behind the outboard mount.  I upgraded from a 9.9 
Evinrude 2 stroke Sail Twin to a 9.8 Nissan 4 stroke (at the time the lightest 
4 stroke on the market) and have noticed stress cracks on the transom around 
the motor mount caused by the motor hobby horsing in the choppy conditions of 
Buzzards Bay.And my transom has a large ½” marine plywood backing plate 
glassed-in behind the outboard mount that is far larger than the mount.  Bottom 
line, the transom of these boats were not designed for the weight of today’s 
larger outboards.I would have opted for a smaller outboard, but wanted the 
alternator output for charging batteries while motoring as well as the electric 
start for times when you need to get the motor running NOW.  We also have 
several areas in our cruising grounds such as Woods Hole where currents can run 
upwards of 4 kts so having a bit of extra power isn’t a bad thing.

When replacing the standing rigging, it would be an ideal time to remove and 
re-bed the chainplates and covers with 3M 4200 as they are prone to leakage.  
Additionally, many of the boats produced in the mid 1970s had gate valves on 
cockpit drains and through hulls rather than proper ball valve seacocks.   Same 
with hoses and hose clamps.   Replacing them now while your boat is not sailing 
might keep your boat from sinking one day.
Compared to the Capri 25, your boat has way more interior space, and stand up 
headroom for anyone under 5’7” down below.  Not too many 25 ft. boats can brag 
of that!
Welcome to the C list, as it is a great resource and an addictive distraction 
during the work day!
Best,
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 25 Mk1

S/V Orion
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA

Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 8:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com<mailto:markm...@msn.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Hi Ahmet,

I'm lucky to have had the former owner put self tailing winches.  It also has 
new Doyle sails and a new Suzuki 9.9hp outboard.

That's all I have for a HIN.

Mark

On Jan 25, 2016, at 8:31 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Not sure, but I can send you privately my previous discussions.
New standing rigging is a good thing. Is there a plaque on the inside of the 
transom that actually shows the hull id.  ?
I did move the stanctions to the toe-rail, and added a electical bilge pump.
I also replaced the winches with old aftermarket Lewmar T 30 self-tailing 
winches.
I am replacing the washers for the keel bolts because they were very rusty.
Ahmet

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:49 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello,

Thanks for the reply.  It's ZCC255260976.  I'm not quite sure how these forums 
work.  Can I search for what you posted before and save you some typing?

I actually haven't sailed it yet because it needs new standing rigging.  It 
should be finished early next week.  My only experience sailing is a Capri 25 
so I appreciate the feedback.

Thanks,

Mark

On Jan 25, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I just bought one last August and love it.
A good friend has one too, so we race all the time. His is a 1974.
What is your hull ID. Let me know what you want to know. I posted a few things 
in the past, and there is some pretty good info on the web.
Ahmet
1973 C 25 "Tabasco"
Winthrop, MA

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello,

My name is Mark McMenamy.  I'm a new owner of a nice 1976 C 25  mk I as well 
as a new sailer.I'm a reformed power boater.  I was curious if anyone had 
information about the designer of this boat or any stories about her 
development.   I was told it's a Hinterhoeller design, but I haven't been able 
to verify this.  I just love this little boat and would appreciate to know a 
little of her backstory.

Thanks a million,

Mark


___

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To change your list preferences, including u

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks Chuck.  Mine originally had a Vire 7 as well.

I have a 20" outboard as well.   How often do you have trouble with the engine 
cavitating?

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:19 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Mark,
I wish I had a viable solution, but I really don’t.  My plywood backing plate 
inside the transom is ½” marine plywood as previously mentioned and it is epoxy 
bonded in place and through bolted with the 4  ½” motor mount bolts with large 
fender washers to spread out the loads.   I would say that the spacing of the 
motor mount bolts is roughly 8” on centers, but the backing plate is easily 18” 
wide and 13” high.   I repainted Half Magic with 2 part Polyurethane several 
years ago and took care to fill any cracks or crazing caused by the motor 
induced transom flex.  All was good until I had to come across Buzzards Bay in 
4 ft seas into the wind.  Whenever the prop would come out of the water coming 
down a wave, the poor transom would flex enough that the cracks showed up 
again…. And yes, I have a long shaft motor with a 20” leg, but given a second 
choice on the motor, should have chosen the Xtra long shaft 25” leg.
Also, my boat was originally outfitted with the Vire 7hp inboard motor, so 
perhaps my transom was more lightly built from the onset, but somehow doubt 
that C would use a lighter duty layup on a boat by boat basis.
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 25 Mk 1
S/V Orion
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark 
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com<mailto:markm...@msn.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Hi Chuck,

I have small hairline stress cracks behind the outboard as well.  I asked the 
yard to look at it.  He wasn't too concerned but asked that I bring it back 
when it is warmer because it's hard to get gel coat to cure with the cold 
weather we've been having.  Behind my transom there is a metal backing plate 
that has been added to greater support the engine.  However, it still has 
gotten some small cracks outside.  I'm wondering what I need to do to keep this 
from happening again after I repair the gel coat.  The metal backing plate is 
kept in place with the motor mount bolts as well as three bolts that go through 
the transom.  The inside metal backing plate is not quite flush with the 
transom due to imperfections in the fiberglass.  The surveyor thought this to 
be the cause of the cracks and recommended removing the engine and the backing 
plate, milling down the fiberglass so it is flat, and reinstalling.  But to be 
honest, it seems like the mount itself just puts too much strain on the transom 
gel coat.  I was wondering if it needed a piece of wood or fiberglass perhaps 
added in between the mount and the transom to disperse the weight of the mount?

Thanks for the help.  Also, I'll look into it he backing plated as well.

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 8:40 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hi Mark,
Congratulations on your new 25 Mk1.  I’ve owned Half Magic, a 1975 model 25 Mk 
1 since 2001 and it has served my family and me very well as a casual racer, 
day sailor and weekend cruiser.  If you’re just mounting the outboard and 
upgrading from a smaller and perhaps lighter outboard, you may want to 
reinforce the transom behind the outboard mount.  I upgraded from a 9.9 
Evinrude 2 stroke Sail Twin to a 9.8 Nissan 4 stroke (at the time the lightest 
4 stroke on the market) and have noticed stress cracks on the transom around 
the motor mount caused by the motor hobby horsing in the choppy conditions of 
Buzzards Bay.And my transom has a large ½” marine plywood backing plate 
glassed-in behind the outboard mount that is far larger than the mount.  Bottom 
line, the transom of these boats were not designed for the weight of today’s 
larger outboards.I would have opted for a smaller outboard, but wanted the 
alternator output for charging batteries while motoring as well as the electric 
start for times when you need to get the motor running NOW.  We also have 
several areas in our cruising grounds such as Woods Hole where currents can run 
upwards of 4 kts so having a bit of extra power isn’t a bad thing.

When replacing the standing rigging, it would be an ideal time to remove and 
re-bed the chainplates and covers with 3M 4200 as they are prone to leakage.  
Additionally, many of the boats produced in the mid 1970s had gate valves on 
cockpit drains and through hulls rather than proper ball valve seacocks.   Same 
with hoses and hose clamps.   Replacing them now while your boat is not sailing 
might 

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During our 
sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.  I'll be 
using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets here in FL, 
but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low tide with and 
easterly wind.

I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking of 
going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.  It's just 
my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's a little over 100 nm 
to get down there.

Thanks again for the info.

Mark




Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 10:46 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Mark,
I can just say that it happens on occasion and it is totally driven by the sea 
state and wind direction.  Because of that, I will try my best to sail using a 
100% jib and reefed main in anything up to 25+ knots on the nose.  When I need 
to motor due to time constraints (or seasick crew) heading directly into the 
wind and waves keeps the motor in the water better than a heavy quartering sea 
which rolls the boat to leeward.  Also motor sailing seems to reduce cavitation 
sailing off the breeze as the boat tends to “squat ” a bit to stern when under 
sail, maybe due to the weight of the crew and an 85lb motor hanging off the 
stern.  I’ve learned to pick and choose my days a bit more carefully when it 
comes to transiting longer distances just to keep the crew comfy and the boat 
in one piece.
Chuck

Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 25 Mk 1
S/V Orion
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark 
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com<mailto:markm...@msn.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Thanks Chuck.  Mine originally had a Vire 7 as well.

I have a 20" outboard as well.   How often do you have trouble with the engine 
cavitating?

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:19 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Mark,
I wish I had a viable solution, but I really don’t.  My plywood backing plate 
inside the transom is ½” marine plywood as previously mentioned and it is epoxy 
bonded in place and through bolted with the 4  ½” motor mount bolts with large 
fender washers to spread out the loads.   I would say that the spacing of the 
motor mount bolts is roughly 8” on centers, but the backing plate is easily 18” 
wide and 13” high.   I repainted Half Magic with 2 part Polyurethane several 
years ago and took care to fill any cracks or crazing caused by the motor 
induced transom flex.  All was good until I had to come across Buzzards Bay in 
4 ft seas into the wind.  Whenever the prop would come out of the water coming 
down a wave, the poor transom would flex enough that the cracks showed up 
again…. And yes, I have a long shaft motor with a 20” leg, but given a second 
choice on the motor, should have chosen the Xtra long shaft 25” leg.
Also, my boat was originally outfitted with the Vire 7hp inboard motor, so 
perhaps my transom was more lightly built from the onset, but somehow doubt 
that C would use a lighter duty layup on a boat by boat basis.
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 25 Mk 1
S/V Orion
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark 
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:03 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com<mailto:markm...@msn.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Hi Chuck,

I have small hairline stress cracks behind the outboard as well.  I asked the 
yard to look at it.  He wasn't too concerned but asked that I bring it back 
when it is warmer because it's hard to get gel coat to cure with the cold 
weather we've been having.  Behind my transom there is a metal backing plate 
that has been added to greater support the engine.  However, it still has 
gotten some small cracks outside.  I'm wondering what I need to do to keep this 
from happening again after I repair the gel coat.  The metal backing plate is 
kept in place with the motor mount bolts as well as three bolts that go through 
the transom.  The inside metal backing plate is not quite flush with the 
transom due to imperfections in the fiberglass.  The surveyor thought this to 
be the cause of the cracks and recommended removing the engine and the backing 
plate, milling down the fiberglass so it is flat, and reinstalling.  But to be 
honest, it seems like the mount itself just puts too much strain on the transom 
gel coat.  I was wondering if it needed a piece 

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks Ahmet.  I've been reading a looking at youtube videos of ways to rig the 
boat bungee/ thr head sail sheet as an autopilot depending the point of sail.  
It seems to work very well.  I was looking at a tiller pilot too, but of course 
there's a current draw.

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 4:41 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Every sailboat I had had an autopilot or a tillerpilot.
I do singlehand often and find it part of the essential equipment.
Yes, I can balance it and go for quite a while without using the pilot on a 
close houl or beam reach, but that does not substitute for the auopilot.

The main limit for motoring is that I am estimating my fuel consumption to be 
about 1 gal./hour on my 9.9 HP Tohatsu 4 stroke
Ahmet
C 25 "Tabasco"
Boston, MA

On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 2:17 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Mark,
The 25 is a stiff little boat and should make the trip without incident.  All I 
can say is to plan ahead and don’t try to keep to a schedule.  Give yourself 
several options for staying overnight if you don’t plan to sail after dark.
I’ve covered 50 nm in a day on Half Magic during a delivery to a regatta but 
would have been much happier covering 2/3 that distance and relaxed a bit more. 
 You can motor all day at 5 kts in relatively calm water but sooner or later 
you’ll want to take a break from the tiller and the constant drone of the 
engine.  Sometimes, especially in a shallow enclosed bay, you get more “hobby 
horsing” over the short waves when the breeze comes up, which would be annoying 
trying to keep the prop in the water. Yet if you go outside to the Atlantic 
where the waves may be larger, but more spaced apart, it is more likely that 
your ride will be more comfortable and friendly to the engine.  Just be wary of 
lee shores when the wind is off the water.
And with only 3’10” of draft, you’ll be able to go most everywhere in the Keys. 
 What fun!
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 25 Mk 1
S/V Orion
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA


From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On 
Behalf Of Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 1:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com<mailto:markm...@msn.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During our 
sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.  I'll be 
using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets here in FL, 
but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low tide with and 
easterly wind.

I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking of 
going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.  It's just 
my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's a little over 100 nm 
to get down there.

Thanks again for the info.

Mark



Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 10:46 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Mark,
I can just say that it happens on occasion and it is totally driven by the sea 
state and wind direction.  Because of that, I will try my best to sail using a 
100% jib and reefed main in anything up to 25+ knots on the nose.  When I need 
to motor due to time constraints (or seasick crew) heading directly into the 
wind and waves keeps the motor in the water better than a heavy quartering sea 
which rolls the boat to leeward.  Also motor sailing seems to reduce cavitation 
sailing off the breeze as the boat tends to “squat ” a bit to stern when under 
sail, maybe due to the weight of the crew and an 85lb motor hanging off the 
stern.  I’ve learned to pick and choose my days a bit more carefully when it 
comes to transiting longer distances just to keep the crew comfy and the boat 
in one piece.
Chuck

Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 25 Mk 1
S/V Orion
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark 
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:24 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com<mailto:markm...@msn.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Thanks Chuck.  Mine originally had a Vire 7 as well.

I have a 20" outboard as well.   How often do you have trouble with the engine 
cavitating?

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:19 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Mark,
I wish I had a viable solution, but I really don’t.  My plywood backin

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks a lot Jack.  I was thinking of planning an off shore run to Lake Worth 
one day, and then heading to Miami to avoid the bridges.  Is it possible to do 
an all night sail and knock it out in a day or so?

Thanks,

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 5:13 PM, jackbrennan via CnC-List 
> wrote:

I sailed my old 25 all over the Keys. A perfect boat for it, particularly on 
the Gulf side, where the shoal draft will get you into all kinds of skinny 
anchorages.

An 8 foot inflatable can be pumped up on deck and stored there when you don't 
want to deflate it.

Where the 25 gets a little eye-opening is when you run some of the tricky East 
Coast of Florida inlets with wind vs tides. It's a tender boat, and a 4 -5 foot 
chop will have you rocking like you won't believe, with the engine of course 
popping out of the water.

My wife used to turn green sometimes when we would run Hillsboro Inlet in 15 
knot easterlies.

The best strategy is to sail in nice weather, but motor the ICW when the wind 
picks up. Stay away from the smaller inlets and use the main ports - Lake 
Worth, Port Everglades and Miami.

Jack Brennan
Former C 25
Tierra Verde, Fl.




Sent from my Samsung Galaxy Tab(r)|PRO


 Original message 
From: Rick Taillieu via CnC-List
Date:01/26/2016 4:41 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Taillieu
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Mark,

Welcome to the list, you'll love your 25.

The 25 will hobby horse quite a bit in short chop, especially if you have a 
heavy outboard on the back and an anchor on the front.
I have a 25" ELS 4 stroke on my boat and I rarely experience any cavitation in 
waves but I do have stress cracks on the transom.  That's what happens when you 
replace an 89 pound 2 stroke with a 108 pound 4 stroke.  Mine has a plywood 
backing plate glassed into the transom from the factory and I have a 2" thick, 
one foot square oak spacer between the mount and the transom on the outside.  
The oak spacer is there so I can fully tilt the outboard for sailing.

When I lived on Lake Ontario my wife and I would cruise the Thousand Islands 
for 7-10 days every year.  The boat is fine for two to do extended cruises but 
it does tend to get small if you're stuck inside in rainy weather.  I made a 
boom tent from ripstop nylon that covers the entire cockpit and wraps over the 
lifelines.  It gives us shade and allows us to use the cockpit in all but the 
worst rain storms.  I also put a mount for the table in the cockpit floor so we 
can eat and entertain outside of the main cabin.  I made a plywood board that 
fits across the cabinets at the main hatchway.  It serves as a great bar and a 
place to place for the stove when cooking so the heat stays out of the cabin.

Give me a shout if you have any specific questions about how to set up your 25, 
I know the boats very well.

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During our 
sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.  I'll be 
using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets here in FL, 
but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low tide with and 
easterly wind.

I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking of 
going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.  It's just 
my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's a little over 100 nm 
to get down there.

Thanks again for the info.

Mark



Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL


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Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hi Rick,

Thanks for the info!   Did you reinforce the cockpit floor before you added a 
post hole for the table?  I was thinking of doing the same thing.  I read that 
some 25's came from the factory so the table could be moved.

Thanks for the info and the welcome.

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 4:42 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
> wrote:

Mark,

Welcome to the list, you'll love your 25.

The 25 will hobby horse quite a bit in short chop, especially if you have a 
heavy outboard on the back and an anchor on the front.
I have a 25" ELS 4 stroke on my boat and I rarely experience any cavitation in 
waves but I do have stress cracks on the transom.  That's what happens when you 
replace an 89 pound 2 stroke with a 108 pound 4 stroke.  Mine has a plywood 
backing plate glassed into the transom from the factory and I have a 2" thick, 
one foot square oak spacer between the mount and the transom on the outside.  
The oak spacer is there so I can fully tilt the outboard for sailing.

When I lived on Lake Ontario my wife and I would cruise the Thousand Islands 
for 7-10 days every year.  The boat is fine for two to do extended cruises but 
it does tend to get small if you're stuck inside in rainy weather.  I made a 
boom tent from ripstop nylon that covers the entire cockpit and wraps over the 
lifelines.  It gives us shade and allows us to use the cockpit in all but the 
worst rain storms.  I also put a mount for the table in the cockpit floor so we 
can eat and entertain outside of the main cabin.  I made a plywood board that 
fits across the cabinets at the main hatchway.  It serves as a great bar and a 
place to place for the stove when cooking so the heat stays out of the cabin.

Give me a shout if you have any specific questions about how to set up your 25, 
I know the boats very well.

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During our 
sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.  I'll be 
using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets here in FL, 
but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low tide with and 
easterly wind.

I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking of 
going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.  It's just 
my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's a little over 100 nm 
to get down there.

Thanks again for the info.

Mark



Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL


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Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks.  Sounds like a fairly straightforward project.  My post is welded to 
the base.  Looks like there are several options for base with a removable post. 
 I'd be nice to be able to put the table in the cockpit.

I like your idea to put a table across the galley.  I bought an Origo 3000 
alcohol stove and figured I'd have to put it on the ice box.  A shelf will open 
things up nicely.

Thanks again,

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 8:23 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Mark,

The table was removable on all the C 25s, you may have been thinking of the 
Hinterhoeler built Redline 25s, they predated the C 25s and had a dinette 
that converted into a berth.
There’s no need to reinforce the cockpit floor, just seal the edges of the core 
when you drill the holes for the base and the mounting bolts.
The original base for my table in the cabin broke so I replaced it with the 
round base that you can buy at most chandlers. I used the same fitting for the 
cockpit.
I had to replace it after about five years out here in salt water.  It rotted 
away due to the salt but five years is about the time you would want to remove 
it to reseal it anyway.
It’s so nice to have a table in the cockpit when you’re relaxing after a day of 
sailing, just remember that the mount on the table is slightly offset to one 
side.

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark 
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: January-26-16 18:29
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Mark McMenamy
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Hi Rick,

Thanks for the info!   Did you reinforce the cockpit floor before you added a 
post hole for the table?  I was thinking of doing the same thing.  I read that 
some 25's came from the factory so the table could be moved.

Thanks for the info and the welcome.

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 4:42 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Mark,

Welcome to the list, you’ll love your 25.

The 25 will hobby horse quite a bit in short chop, especially if you have a 
heavy outboard on the back and an anchor on the front.
I have a 25” ELS 4 stroke on my boat and I rarely experience any cavitation in 
waves but I do have stress cracks on the transom.  That’s what happens when you 
replace an 89 pound 2 stroke with a 108 pound 4 stroke.  Mine has a plywood 
backing plate glassed into the transom from the factory and I have a 2” thick, 
one foot square oak spacer between the mount and the transom on the outside.  
The oak spacer is there so I can fully tilt the outboard for sailing.

When I lived on Lake Ontario my wife and I would cruise the Thousand Islands 
for 7-10 days every year.  The boat is fine for two to do extended cruises but 
it does tend to get small if you’re stuck inside in rainy weather.  I made a 
boom tent from ripstop nylon that covers the entire cockpit and wraps over the 
lifelines.  It gives us shade and allows us to use the cockpit in all but the 
worst rain storms.  I also put a mount for the table in the cockpit floor so we 
can eat and entertain outside of the main cabin.  I made a plywood board that 
fits across the cabinets at the main hatchway.  It serves as a great bar and a 
place to place for the stove when cooking so the heat stays out of the cabin.

Give me a shout if you have any specific questions about how to set up your 25, 
I know the boats very well.

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During our 
sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.  I'll be 
using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets here in FL, 
but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low tide with and 
easterly wind.

I was curious if people ever take these on longer trips?  I was thinking of 
going down to the keys but I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.  It's just 
my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.  It's a little over 100 nm 
to get down there.

Thanks again for the info.

Mark



Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL



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Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

No Danny.  But apparently there's a really good seafood restaurant called 
McMenamy's Seafood in MA.  People are always asking me if we're related so 
there must be some McMenamy's in the NE.  I'm from St Louis MO originally.

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:18 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hey Mark,

I have a cousin with the same name from NY.  That wouldn't be you?

Danny



Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device
 Original message ----
From: Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Date: 1/26/2016 9:12 PM (GMT-05:00)
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com<mailto:markm...@msn.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Thanks.  Sounds like a fairly straightforward project.  My post is welded to 
the base.  Looks like there are several options for base with a removable post. 
 I'd be nice to be able to put the table in the cockpit.

I like your idea to put a table across the galley.  I bought an Origo 3000 
alcohol stove and figured I'd have to put it on the ice box.  A shelf will open 
things up nicely.

Thanks again,

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 8:23 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Mark,

The table was removable on all the C 25s, you may have been thinking of the 
Hinterhoeler built Redline 25s, they predated the C 25s and had a dinette 
that converted into a berth.
There’s no need to reinforce the cockpit floor, just seal the edges of the core 
when you drill the holes for the base and the mounting bolts.
The original base for my table in the cabin broke so I replaced it with the 
round base that you can buy at most chandlers. I used the same fitting for the 
cockpit.
I had to replace it after about five years out here in salt water.  It rotted 
away due to the salt but five years is about the time you would want to remove 
it to reseal it anyway.
It’s so nice to have a table in the cockpit when you’re relaxing after a day of 
sailing, just remember that the mount on the table is slightly offset to one 
side.

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark 
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: January-26-16 18:29
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Mark McMenamy
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Hi Rick,

Thanks for the info!   Did you reinforce the cockpit floor before you added a 
post hole for the table?  I was thinking of doing the same thing.  I read that 
some 25's came from the factory so the table could be moved.

Thanks for the info and the welcome.

Mark

Mark McMenamy
"Icicle" C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 26, 2016, at 4:42 PM, Rick Taillieu via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Mark,

Welcome to the list, you’ll love your 25.

The 25 will hobby horse quite a bit in short chop, especially if you have a 
heavy outboard on the back and an anchor on the front.
I have a 25” ELS 4 stroke on my boat and I rarely experience any cavitation in 
waves but I do have stress cracks on the transom.  That’s what happens when you 
replace an 89 pound 2 stroke with a 108 pound 4 stroke.  Mine has a plywood 
backing plate glassed into the transom from the factory and I have a 2” thick, 
one foot square oak spacer between the mount and the transom on the outside.  
The oak spacer is there so I can fully tilt the outboard for sailing.

When I lived on Lake Ontario my wife and I would cruise the Thousand Islands 
for 7-10 days every year.  The boat is fine for two to do extended cruises but 
it does tend to get small if you’re stuck inside in rainy weather.  I made a 
boom tent from ripstop nylon that covers the entire cockpit and wraps over the 
lifelines.  It gives us shade and allows us to use the cockpit in all but the 
worst rain storms.  I also put a mount for the table in the cockpit floor so we 
can eat and entertain outside of the main cabin.  I made a plywood board that 
fits across the cabinets at the main hatchway.  It serves as a great bar and a 
place to place for the stove when cooking so the heat stays out of the cabin.

Give me a shout if you have any specific questions about how to set up your 25, 
I know the boats very well.

Rick Taillieu
Nemesis
'75 C 25  #371
Shearwater Yacht Club
Halifax, NS.



Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine would play out.  During our 
sailing lessons we've always been in shore, never any real rough chop.  I'll be 
using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more benign inlets here in FL, 
but at times it for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low tide with and 
easterly wind.

I was curious i

Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Thanks Rick.  I really appreciate it.  I'll definitely dive more into the 
Cncphotobum.

Mark McMenamy
Icicle C 25
Fort Pierce FL

On Jan 25, 2016, at 8:43 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Welcome to the list. There are several owners of 25s on here so you should be 
able to get advice and answers to your questions pretty easily. I've owned my 
25 mk1 since 1994, and although I know I should find someone else to love it 
and lavish attention on it, I just can't seem to find it in myself to part with 
it.

Based on your HIN, your boat is hull number 526. And the 0976 date code would 
make it a 1977 model.

The boat was designed by Cuthbertson & Cassian (C) who were successful 
designers of boats before C Yachts was organized to build boats. 
Hinterhoeller was one of the manufacturers who built C designs before C 
Yachts was organized (and even after).

You can find some information on your boat ( and links to more) at 
Sailboatdata.com<http://sailboatdata.com>: 
http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=611

Because you have found the cnc-list (AKA Stu's List), I am presuming that you 
have also found the C Photo Album website at http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/ . 
You will find a huge amount of technical information, DIY project information, 
photos, history, and more at that site thanks to Stu. Among other things you 
can search the list archive to find past posts about a given subject.

And, BTW, it is more or less customary (but not universal) to sign your posts 
with information about your boat and where you are located. Sometimes the 
answer to a question can vary depending on where you sail and how you use the 
boat. And frequently owners in your area will chime in with offers for 
assistance or to let you see how their boats are set up if they are in your 
area.

Rick Brass
Imzadi  C 38 mk 2
la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1
Washington, NC



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Mark 
McMenamy via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, January 25, 2016 7:50 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Mark McMenamy <markm...@msn.com<mailto:markm...@msn.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

Hello,

Thanks for the reply.  It's ZCC255260976.  I'm not quite sure how these forums 
work.  Can I search for what you posted before and save you some typing?

I actually haven't sailed it yet because it needs new standing rigging.  It 
should be finished early next week.  My only experience sailing is a Capri 25 
so I appreciate the feedback.

Thanks,

Mark

On Jan 25, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I just bought one last August and love it.
A good friend has one too, so we race all the time. His is a 1974.
What is your hull ID. Let me know what you want to know. I posted a few things 
in the past, and there is some pretty good info on the web.
Ahmet
1973 C 25 "Tabasco"
Winthrop, MA

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello,

My name is Mark McMenamy.  I'm a new owner of a nice 1976 C 25  mk I as well 
as a new sailer.I'm a reformed power boater.  I was curious if anyone had 
information about the designer of this boat or any stories about her 
development.   I was told it's a Hinterhoeller design, but I haven't been able 
to verify this.  I just love this little boat and would appreciate to know a 
little of her backstory.

Thanks a million,

Mark


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Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hi Ahmet,

I'm lucky to have had the former owner put self tailing winches.  It also has 
new Doyle sails and a new Suzuki 9.9hp outboard.

That's all I have for a HIN.

Mark

On Jan 25, 2016, at 8:31 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Not sure, but I can send you privately my previous discussions.
New standing rigging is a good thing. Is there a plaque on the inside of the 
transom that actually shows the hull id.  ?
I did move the stanctions to the toe-rail, and added a electical bilge pump.
I also replaced the winches with old aftermarket Lewmar T 30 self-tailing 
winches.
I am replacing the washers for the keel bolts because they were very rusty.
Ahmet

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:49 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello,

Thanks for the reply.  It's ZCC255260976.  I'm not quite sure how these forums 
work.  Can I search for what you posted before and save you some typing?

I actually haven't sailed it yet because it needs new standing rigging.  It 
should be finished early next week.  My only experience sailing is a Capri 25 
so I appreciate the feedback.

Thanks,

Mark

On Jan 25, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I just bought one last August and love it.
A good friend has one too, so we race all the time. His is a 1974.
What is your hull ID. Let me know what you want to know. I posted a few things 
in the past, and there is some pretty good info on the web.
Ahmet
1973 C 25 "Tabasco"
Winthrop, MA

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello,

My name is Mark McMenamy.  I'm a new owner of a nice 1976 C 25  mk I as well 
as a new sailer.I'm a reformed power boater.  I was curious if anyone had 
information about the designer of this boat or any stories about her 
development.   I was told it's a Hinterhoeller design, but I haven't been able 
to verify this.  I just love this little boat and would appreciate to know a 
little of her backstory.

Thanks a million,

Mark


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Stus-List C 25 Info

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hello,

My name is Mark McMenamy.  I'm a new owner of a nice 1976 C 25  mk I as well 
as a new sailer.I'm a reformed power boater.  I was curious if anyone had 
information about the designer of this boat or any stories about her 
development.   I was told it's a Hinterhoeller design, but I haven't been able 
to verify this.  I just love this little boat and would appreciate to know a 
little of her backstory.  

Thanks a million,

Mark


___

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Re: Stus-List C 25 Info

[Mark McMenamy via CnC-List]

Hello,

Thanks for the reply.  It's ZCC255260976.  I'm not quite sure how these forums 
work.  Can I search for what you posted before and save you some typing?

I actually haven't sailed it yet because it needs new standing rigging.  It 
should be finished early next week.  My only experience sailing is a Capri 25 
so I appreciate the feedback.

Thanks,

Mark

On Jan 25, 2016, at 7:42 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I just bought one last August and love it.
A good friend has one too, so we race all the time. His is a 1974.
What is your hull ID. Let me know what you want to know. I posted a few things 
in the past, and there is some pretty good info on the web.
Ahmet
1973 C 25 "Tabasco"
Winthrop, MA

On Mon, Jan 25, 2016 at 7:35 PM, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello,

My name is Mark McMenamy.  I'm a new owner of a nice 1976 C 25  mk I as well 
as a new sailer.I'm a reformed power boater.  I was curious if anyone had 
information about the designer of this boat or any stories about her 
development.   I was told it's a Hinterhoeller design, but I haven't been able 
to verify this.  I just love this little boat and would appreciate to know a 
little of her backstory.

Thanks a million,

Mark


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