Stus-List Changing subject when subject changes

[Bob Mann via CnC-List]

Please modify the subject line when changing the subject of your messages.

What either of these two (below) has to do with Rub rail gouge repair is beyond 
me. Personally, I'm more concerned when the original discussion is not 
something I'm interested in (and don't read the thread) but it changes to 
something that does interest me but I'll never see it because the subject line 
wasn't updated.

Bob

> On 05/09/2021 7:58 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
>  
> I'm still getting the hang of coaxing the speed out of her, especially in 
> light air. Had a brief sail on a CM1200 race boat the other night, and it was 
> an eye opener - barely a breath of wind and we were making 3-4 knots 
> closehauled with a #4 jib. Closereaching in 10 knots we could make a steady 
> 7knots, and then we had a fun return making 10 knots in about 14-15 using the 
> huge A1 (1250sqft). Now I know why this boat leaves everyone in its wake! 
> Quite a ride.
> We looked at some really comfortable looking cruisers for our next boat, 
> but I still want something that can move in light air, yet be comfortable in 
> big seas... the search continues. Meanwhile, we'll enjoy what we have. :)
> 
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com mailto:shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
> 
> On Sun, May 9, 2021 at 1:45 PM dwight veinot via CnC-List < 
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com > wrote:
> 
> > > Yes I agree very good. Everything about the way they 
> built only 147 35 MKII hulls was superb and has stood the test of time. Shear 
> lines are very appealing. The boat is quick yet has the “big boat” feel at 
> the helm. And rides the seas like a thoroughbred. 
> > 
> >  
> > 
> > > 
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Email subject and trimming

[Stu]

Please, please change the subject line to reflect on the email itself.

When you see “Suspicious Message 1 – Suspicious Message 2” people are going to 
be very cautious opening the email.

I have to keep reminding people to trim the messages.  This is really important 
when you are replying to something in a digest email.  There is no need to keep 
sending and archiving the digest.

Stay safe – Stu___

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Stus-List (no subject)

[rockland bazemore via CnC-List]

Saw 65Kts gusts at EXRX buoy
 on Long Island
Sound today. Drove down to the town dock through the fallen branches and
watched through binocs as she yawed and veered.  I don't recommend it.
Counted around five shredded headsails by the 3rd trip down.

>
> Rockland Bazemore
S/V Blue Pearl
C 37/40+
Port Washington, NY
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Stus-List (no subject)

[Joel Delamirande via CnC-List]

Is someone moonshine sailboat on this group
-- 
Joel Delamirande
*www.jdroofing.ca *
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Stus-List (no subject)

[detroito91 via CnC-List]

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphoneC 38 landfall    Beautiful 
racer/cruiser. Won the last Pirates on the Pongo regatta. Over $10,000.00 in 
new canvasListed on yachtworld..click on 
belowhttps://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1981/c-c-38-landfall-3652282/___

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Shawn Wright via CnC-List]

An interesting post, as I am considering how and where to install the long
tracks I got to upgrade our 35mk2. So the small inner track allows one to
trim the genoa with more curve by bringing it inboard in lighter wind?
Currently, my genoa uses a block on the toerail, and the jib uses the
factory track, which is almost at the cockpit coaming. So by moving the
genoa sheet to the track, I should be able to get more curve? I will have
to try this. I can see the lifelines might be an issue though, as they can
be when running closehauled with the genoa on the toerail.

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Thu, May 21, 2020 at 9:13 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Welcome Larry,
> I don't think the email server can handle pics but you got away with it.
>
> My understanding is the following:
> The long Genoa track is for the #1s and #2 if you have those.  155% down
> to 120%.  It is the track you will use most of the time and has an
> adjustable car.  The short track inside of this on the cockpit coaming is
> to sheet those same genoas in lighter wind when you want more curve, and
> sheeting to the longer track makes the sail too flat.   The forward track
> is for smaller headsails like a #3, #4, 110% down to storm jib.
>
> Google "Barberhauler"  and you will see some ways to change the lead
> without undoing the usual sheets.
>
> Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Pasadena Md
>
> 
> ___
>
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> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List]

Welcome Larry,
I don't think the email server can handle pics but you got away with it.

My understanding is the following:
The long Genoa track is for the #1s and #2 if you have those.  155% down to 
120%.  It is the track you will use most of the time and has an adjustable car. 
 The short track inside of this on the cockpit coaming is to sheet those same 
genoas in lighter wind when you want more curve, and sheeting to the longer 
track makes the sail too flat.   The forward track is for smaller headsails 
like a #3, #4, 110% down to storm jib. 

Google "Barberhauler"  and you will see some ways to change the lead without 
undoing the usual sheets.

Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Pasadena Md

https://www.paypal.me/stumurray___

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Stus-List (no subject)

[Larry via CnC-List]

I am hoping I can post a photo! I have never tried before!
I have a 38-ft MK
From the photo you can clearly see the main track for the Genoa. But I have two 
smaller tracks. 
One on the cabin forward of the handrail and one far back, on a small ledge on 
the side of the companionway. I am new to sailing and boat ownership, 5 years. 
Nobody I know, knows what these tracks are for! Does anyone have a similar 
setup or know what they are for! I suspect the forward maybe for a stay sail or 
storm jib?



Sent from my iPhone___

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Stus-List (no subject)

[PAUL PARSONS via CnC-List]

Sent from my iPhone


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Stus-List (no subject)

[Raymond Macklin via CnC-List]

Hello:

1985 C 33-2.  I misplaced the part on the mast that holds the sail slides
in the mast track.  Does anyone know where i can get a replacement?

Ray Macklin
LakeHouse
Milwaukee WI.
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Stus-List (no subject)

[alain hogue via CnC-List]

I just forgot to write my name on my message send to you minutes a go about the 
C 25 mark 1 non slippery deck

My name is Alain Hogue

thanks

Provenance : Courrier pour 
Windows 10

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Stus-List (no subject)

[Jesse A. Rieber via CnC-List]

To he who wishes to climb the mast - get a Boson's chair and a friend, better 
than going splat on the deck, allows you to work with confidence.___

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Stus-List (no subject)

[Andrew Melton via CnC-List]

Hello Glad to hear the new EDGE made it 
Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone
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Stus-List (no subject)

[Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List]

Dennis, your Pensacola docking sounds similar to my old dock in Horseshoe
Bay Howe Sound in West Vancouver.  That spot would get very strong wind and
ferry wash coupled with a port prop walk that made getting our bow in
starboard tie a challenge.  I developed a technique that worked well with
my wife and I and by myself single handed (on occasion).

I made a single line for combined spring and stern that was attached to the
mid ship cleat via a loop at one bitter end for the spring line.  This was
just the right length for a spring that would prevent the bow from hitting
the main dock when attached to the pad-ring at the end of the finger.
Where it attached to the pad ring a carabeener was used and this was mid
line, not at a biter end.  The remaining line was used for the stern line,
it fed through the stern chock and had a stopper knot.

With this setup I did not use reverse at all, I used the spring line to
decelerate us and I would pull stern line from the helm to stop the stern
from swinging out when the spring became loaded.  Once that was done the
boat could remain in forward with the tiller pointed to the dock and it
would just stay there in place perfectly.

So once the line was rigged, it worked like this:

1) when entering the slip when the shrouds were at the cleat/eye at the end
of the finger, jump off and quikly secure carabeener.  Both the spring and
stern line were attached to the doc once this step was done
2) as the spring loads pull the stern line from the cockpit to stop the bow
from swinging into the dock, or the stern from hitting the neighbor to the
port
3) turn tiller to starboard
3) increase throttle once secure as needed to keep boat in place while
attaching other lines at leisure

One important thing to ensure is that the bitter end of of the stern line
has a stopper so it won't go through the chalk -- don't ask me know I
know  Let's just say it went wrong once when I didn't have that.

Interested to hear others' techniques.

Cheers,
  Jeremy


-- Forwarded message --
From: "Dennis C." 
To: CnClist 
Cc:
Bcc:
Date: Tue, 31 Jul 2018 10:58:34 -0500
Subject: Stus-List Docking seamanship
OK, after 20 years  of ownership, I'm pretty good at driving Touche'.
Touche's "home" slip in Louisiana is in a fairly protected bayou, has both
outboard and midships pilings on either side and a port side finger pier.
I can competently back Touche' in using propwalk, etc. without touching any
pilings.  Whoopee.

However, the "temporary" slip I use in Pensacola is a whole different
scenario.  First, it has a starboard side finger pier which extends to just
short of full boat length.  Second, it is a double slip with NO pilings
between Touche' and my neighbor, an IP 37.  Third, the prevailing wind is
from the starboard side.

In Pensacola, I dock Touche' bow in for privacy and scenic view
issues.  Docking
stern in isn't a desirable option because the bow will fall off towards my
neighbor while docking and looking at a scenic bayou is preferable to
looking at a working boatyard.

So, docking bow in with a wind from starboard and prop walk which pulls the
boat to port is a challenge.  The wind pushes the boat dramatically to port
when docking.  The prop walk exacerbates the movement to port.  The wind
and prop walk both working against the boat sucks.

I've tried several techniques with limited to moderate success.  The best
the Admiral and I have come up with is to approach at a slight upwind angle
to the finger pier, have a spring/warp line attached a bit forward of
midships, have crew leap off the boat and secure the spring to the
outermost cleat on the finger pier to stop forward motion.  Once the line
is secure, we warp the stern in with forward propulsion and left rudder and
secure a stern line.  The stern still tries to swing to port midway through
this process but we manage it.

Now for my main issue.  Docking single handed.  I can't see myself
approaching the pier, putting the boat in reverse, scrambling out of the
steering station past the Bimini bows, securing the spring line, jumping
back on the boat, warping the stern in and then securing the stern line by
myself.

Any secret tricks I haven't explored?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Stus-List Correct subject, asymmetrical spin

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

Bill Dakin
S/V Tapestry
25-2

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List]

http://superb.kcmaps.com

Pierre Tremblay

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Allan Rheaume via CnC-List]

http://have.thesportsbrandingagency.com

Allan Rheaume

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Stus-List (no subject)

[Pierre Tremblay via CnC-List]

http://star.goldlinecorp.net/

Pierre Tremblay

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Stus-List (no subject)

[Allan Rheaume via CnC-List]

http://with.planit1st.com/
Allan Rheaume

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Stus-List (no subject)

[Skip Hankins via CnC-List]

http://kind.sweatequityjobs.net
Skip Hankins
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Not the poster’s fault. Hacked...

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 28, 2018, at 18:52, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> He was probably hacked
> Ron
> 
> 
> On Monday, May 28, 2018, 6:45:26 PM EDT, Wade Glew via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> with all due respect, this post has nothing to do with CNC, boating or 
> anything else we are discussing on this list
> 
> On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 4:36 AM, Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>  
> 
> http://service. curediabeteswithoutdrugs.com
> 
>  
> 
> Erik Hillenmeyer
> 
>  
> 
> 
> __ _
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/ stumurray
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> ___
> 
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
> every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use 
> PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List]

 He was probably hackedRon

On Monday, May 28, 2018, 6:45:26 PM EDT, Wade Glew via CnC-List 
 wrote:  
 
 with all due respect, this post has nothing to do with CNC, boating or 
anything else we are discussing on this list
On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 4:36 AM, Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List 
 wrote:


 

http://service. curediabeteswithoutdrugs.com

 

Erik Hillenmeyer

 

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Wade Glew via CnC-List]

with all due respect, this post has nothing to do with CNC, boating or
anything else we are discussing on this list

On Sun, May 27, 2018 at 4:36 AM, Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> http://service.curediabeteswithoutdrugs.com
>
>
>
> Erik Hillenmeyer
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each
> and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
> use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
>
>
___

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Stus-List (no subject)

[Erik Hillenmeyer via CnC-List]

http://service.curediabeteswithoutdrugs.com

Erik Hillenmeyer

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Re: Stus-List change subject reminder

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hey guys,

It is little wonder people get frustrated and 
leave when this list looks more like a chat line 
then a problem solving, albeit somewhat humourous 
at times (damn, I miss those days). As an old 
codger I can say the quality of discussion 
degraded when people started getting their email 
message (and replying) on the G*d damn phones. 


Anyhow, to the point. The subject line needs to 
be change when you drift away from the main thread content.


And if your email client puts [EXTERNAL] or 
something like that in the subject line then 
please strip that as it screws up a "sort by 
subject" action... but bless you for checking the list during work hours :)


Below is an example of a badly presented reply 
that needs to be cleaned before being sent. It is 
not meant to single out Rod.  (note phone source, like, who cares?).


Best regards, Russ

===

At 03:35 AM 4/6/2018, you wrote:
I think there is a lot that does not need to go 
to everybody but I guess that is a personal 
choice .  I’ll manage the accounts so I 
don’t get 50 emails a day on my laptop, phone 
and desktop. Rod Sent from my iPhone > On Apr 6, 
2018, at 6:56 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Short answer 
is Yes we do. > > Have your email client 
organize incoming mail into folders using rules. 
I use outlook and anything with Stubs List, 
Frees List, etch ... goes into folder called 
mail lists rather than to inbox > > Mike > 
Persistence > Halifax > 
 > From: 
CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on 
behalf of Rod Stright via CnC-List 
[cnc-list@cnc-list.com] > Sent: April 5, 2018 
4:28 PM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Rod 
Stright > Subject: Re: Stus-List 
[EXTERNAL]   Re:  Marine Batteries > > Do we 
always need to copy everyone on the list about 
everything.  Gets pretty ridiculous with the 
number of emails.  No wonder people 
unsubscribe > > Rod > > From: CnC-List 
<cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> On Behalf Of 
Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List > Sent: 
April-05-18 3:01 PM > To: 
'cnc-list@cnc-list.com' 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
<joe.della.ba...@ssa.gov> > Subject: Re: 
Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Marine Batteries > > 
Sams Club had their private label golf carts for 
$89 each. Like their AGMs, I think they are 
Dekas. > I will one day switch to golf carts 
when I figure out how to mount them. They will 
not fit where I have my batteries now. One nice 
thing about them is abuse is not instant death. 
Mild overcharging can be fixed with water and 
mild undercharging will resolve with 
equalization. Gels never get better once 
abused. > > Joe > Coquina > > From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf 
Of Frederick G Street via CnC-List > Sent: 
Thursday, April 05, 2018 1:50 PM > To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  
> Cc: Frederick G Street > Subject: [EXTERNAL] 
Re: Stus-List Marine Batteries > > By contrast, 
my Trojan T105 golf cart batteries run around 
$150.00 each; a pair of them has twice the 
amp-hour capacity at 12 volts as a single Group 
31.  I’m on my seventh year with them, and 
they’re still performing well. > > Fred Street 
-- Minneapolis > S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 
38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^( > > On 
Apr 5, 2018, at 12:37 PM, Charles Nelson via 
CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> 
wrote: > > A few years ago I replaced my 
batteries with Northstar? 31. They were rated 
very high, we’re the heaviest #31s (lots of 
lead) and they claim to use only ‘virgin’ 
lead, not recycled lead, which they claim lasts 
longer. Came with a 2 or 3 year full replacement 
warranty with the remaining 3 or 2 years out to 
5 years prorated. Expensive (~$300 each) but 
still going after almost 3 years. > I mostly 
club race so I can’t speak to cruising use. 
They are only on a charger for a few hours 
before a race and have never purposely been 
drawn down significantly. > YMMV > Charlie 
Nelson > 1995 C 36 XL/kcb > Water 
Phantom > > > 
[https://ipmcdn.avast.com/images/icons/icon-envelope-tick-round-orange-animated-no-repeat-v1.gif]<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient> 
Virus-free. 
www.avast.com<https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email_source=link_campaign=sig-email_content=emailclient>  
> > 
___ > 
 > Thanks everyone for supporting this list 
with your contributions.  Each and every one is 
greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the 
list - use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > 

Stus-List (no subject)

[Bill Findley via CnC-List]

Please unsubscribe me from your emails. Thank you.
Sent from my iPad

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Stus-List (no subject)

[Franklin Schenk via CnC-List]

 The boat I have shared with a friend is being sold.  How do I unfriend from 
this list.  It has been great but time to move on.
Frank Schenk___

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Stus-List (no subject)

[Rino Granito via CnC-List]

unsubscribe
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Stus-List Email subject

[Stu via CnC-List]

Just your friendly monthly nag to tell you not to leave "Stus-List
CnC-List Digest, Vol 1XX, Issue 1XX".  It does not reflect on the subject
of the email and chances are people will just delete it.

On the same subject, please trim your messages so that the previous
garbage is removed.  There is no reason to have 6 email footers in the
same message.  Your message is going to be archived and that costs money.

Have a good day.

Stu



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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

I used the key way, but I understand that some rudders have the key way
extend down further than others.  So you may be able to use the key way or
not.

Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 11:54 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gary,
>
> Did you just use the key-way or did you drill through the rudder post as
> well?  I really like how you installed it all at home and then just glassed
> in the shelf!
> Danny
>
>
> On 10/27/2017 11:24 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Hi Doug,
>  I had to cut a section out of the tube (terrifying) but it worked out
> great.  Just do all the reinforcing first, before you cut it so everything
> stays lined up.  The tube supports the deck.  See pictures below:
>
> Gary
> ​
>  High Maintenance Autopilot Project
> <https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BwQRSP2fYIFmbWJHUy1vcXI0dUU>
> ​
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:52 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks Gary. Was a portion of the rudder shaft exposed, or did you have
>> to cut a section of the tube away to install the arm for the auto pilot ram.
>>
>>
>> Doug Allardyce
>> _/)~~~_/) 
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]*On Behalf Of *Gary
>> Russell via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, October 27, 2017 9:31 AM
>> *To:* C List
>> *Cc:* Gary Russell
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List (no subject)
>>
>> Yes, I do.  I put one in a 37+ and I love it.
>>
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah
>> '90 C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:14 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Does anyone out there have experience putting a below deck autopilot on
>>> a 34
>>> plus or 37/40.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Doug Allardyce
>>> _/)~~~_/) 
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>>
>>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
> October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
> contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
> --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
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>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Ron Ricci via CnC-List]

Doug,

 

I “copied” Gary’s design and am happy with the results.  My rudder shaft did 
not have a keyway (Gary’s had one) so I ended up having to drill a 3/8” hole 
through a 3” stainless steel tube with ½” thick walls.  Edson makes an 
appropriate tiller arm with a 3/8” hole pre-drilled.  I used a drill bushing to 
start with a 1/8” pilot hole.  If you end up having to drill your shaft, let me 
know.  I have a drill bushing 

Regards,

Ron

Ron Ricci

S/V Patriot

C 37+

Bristol, RI

 <mailto:ron.ri...@1968.usna.com> ron.ri...@1968.usna.com

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Doug 
Allardyce via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 12:41 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Doug Allardyce
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

 

Thank again Gary. This is very helpful. You did a great job laying everything 
out and then executing. No mysteries now on what needs to be done. Great 
installation.

 

Doug Allardyce 
_/)~~~_/)  

-Original Message-



 

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Thank again Gary. This is very helpful. You did a great job laying everything 
out and then executing. No mysteries now on what needs to be done. Great 
installation.

Doug Allardyce 
_/)~~~_/)  

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Gary 
Russell via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 11:25 AM
  To: C List
  Cc: Gary Russell
  Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)


  Hi Doug,
   I had to cut a section out of the tube (terrifying) but it worked out 
great.  Just do all the reinforcing first, before you cut it so everything 
stays lined up.  The tube supports the deck.  See pictures below:


  Gary
  ​
   High Maintenance Autopilot Project​



  ~~~_/)~~




  On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:52 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Thanks Gary. Was a portion of the rudder shaft exposed, or did you have to 
cut a section of the tube away to install the arm for the auto pilot ram.

Doug Allardyce 
_/)~~~_/)  

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Gary 
Russell via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 9:31 AM
  To: C List
  Cc: Gary Russell
  Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)


  Yes, I do.  I put one in a 37+ and I love it. 


  Gary
  S/V Kaylarah
  '90 C 37+
  East Greenwich, RI, USA


  ~~~_/)~~




  On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:14 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Does anyone out there have experience putting a below deck autopilot on 
a 34
plus or 37/40.



Doug Allardyce
_/)~~~_/) 


___

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

Gary,

Did you just use the key-way or did you drill through the rudder post as 
well?  I really like how you installed it all at home and then just 
glassed in the shelf!


Danny

On 10/27/2017 11:24 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Doug,
     I had to cut a section out of the tube (terrifying) but it worked 
out great.  Just do all the reinforcing first, before you cut it so 
everything stays lined up.  The tube supports the deck.  See pictures 
below:


Gary
​
High Maintenance Autopilot Project 
<https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BwQRSP2fYIFmbWJHUy1vcXI0dUU>

​

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:52 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Thanks Gary. Was a portion of the rudder shaft exposed, or did you
have to cut a section of the tube away to install the arm for the
auto pilot ram.

Doug Allardyce
_/)~~~_/) 

-Original Message-
*From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>]*On Behalf Of *Gary
Russell via CnC-List
*Sent:* Friday, October 27, 2017 9:31 AM
*To:* C List
*Cc:* Gary Russell
    *Subject:* Re: Stus-List (no subject)

Yes, I do.  I put one in a 37+ and I love it.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:14 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Does anyone out there have experience putting a below deck
autopilot on a 34
plus or 37/40.



Doug Allardyce
_/)~~~_/) 


___

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have gone up again.  October will be our fund raising
month.  Please consider sending a small contribution to
help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
<https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>

All contributions are greatly appreciated!



___

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up again.  October will be our fund raising month. Please consider
sending a small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use
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<https://www.paypal.me/stumurray>

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Doug,
 I had to cut a section out of the tube (terrifying) but it worked out
great.  Just do all the reinforcing first, before you cut it so everything
stays lined up.  The tube supports the deck.  See pictures below:

Gary
​
 High Maintenance Autopilot Project
<https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0BwQRSP2fYIFmbWJHUy1vcXI0dUU>
​

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:52 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks Gary. Was a portion of the rudder shaft exposed, or did you have to
> cut a section of the tube away to install the arm for the auto pilot ram.
>
>
> Doug Allardyce
> _/)~~~_/) 
>
> -Original Message-
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]*On Behalf Of *Gary
> Russell via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, October 27, 2017 9:31 AM
> *To:* C List
> *Cc:* Gary Russell
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List (no subject)
>
> Yes, I do.  I put one in a 37+ and I love it.
>
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:14 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Does anyone out there have experience putting a below deck autopilot on a
>> 34
>> plus or 37/40.
>>
>>
>>
>> Doug Allardyce
>> _/)~~~_/) 
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
>> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
>> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
>> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Thanks Gary. Was a portion of the rudder shaft exposed, or did you have to cut 
a section of the tube away to install the arm for the auto pilot ram.

Doug Allardyce 
_/)~~~_/)  

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Gary 
Russell via CnC-List
  Sent: Friday, October 27, 2017 9:31 AM
  To: C List
  Cc: Gary Russell
  Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)


  Yes, I do.  I put one in a 37+ and I love it.


  Gary
  S/V Kaylarah
  '90 C 37+
  East Greenwich, RI, USA


  ~~~_/)~~




  On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:14 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

Does anyone out there have experience putting a below deck autopilot on a 34
plus or 37/40.



Doug Allardyce
_/)~~~_/) 


___

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Yes, I do.  I put one in a 37+ and I love it.

Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, Oct 27, 2017 at 9:14 AM, Doug Allardyce via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Does anyone out there have experience putting a below deck autopilot on a
> 34
> plus or 37/40.
>
>
>
> Doug Allardyce
> _/)~~~_/) 
>
>
> ___
>
> The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up
> again.  October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
> small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send
> contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

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All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Stus-List (no subject)

[Doug Allardyce via CnC-List]

Does anyone out there have experience putting a below deck autopilot on a 34
plus or 37/40.



Doug Allardyce
_/)~~~_/) 

<>___

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contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
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Stus-List (no subject)

[Eugene Fodor via CnC-List]

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi John,

First suggestion is to check the Photoalbum site to se if your manual 
is listed in the resources sections. Then talk with a few old guys at 
your marina. If that doesn't work out well enough, post a few more 
details here and we'll take a stab at it.


:)

Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 11:45 AM 22/07/2017, you wrote:

___

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Stus-List (no subject)

[John Brock via CnC-List]

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Stus-List (no subject)

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Attachments don't work.  You'll need to upload it somewhere and paste a link if 
you want listers to see it.  

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200
C 305.409.3660


> 
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sat, 28 Jan 2017 18:32:57 + (UTC)
> From: Bruce Whitmore <bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net>
> To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Stus-List Broken elbow at water tank manifold, newbie diesel
>engine questions
> Message-ID: <1589177553.2563023.1485628377...@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hello everyone,
> 
> 
> Well, it's almost official - We're closing on a C 37/40+ next week!? 
> Agreements signed, funds transferred, etc.? Now it's just about the 
> paperwork.? So now the fun begins - repairs!? 
> 
> There is a broken elbow fitting at the water tank manifold - it appears to be 
> polybutylene, but I can't tell for sure just based on the attached photo.? At 
> any rate, this comes out of the manifold and goes to a strainer.? We can't 
> fill, test or use the water system until this is fixed.? Does anyone here 
> have an idea where I might find the elbow fitting (or something else that 
> would work)?
> Thanks in advance! 
> 
> 
> 
> -- next part --
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/attachments/20170128/06aa07e7/attachment.html>
> -- next part --
> A non-text attachment was scrubbed...
> Name: Boat Water Tank Manifold -   small.jpg
> Type: image/jpeg
> Size: 32666 bytes
> Desc: not available
> URL: 
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> 
> --
> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
> ___
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> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> --
> 
> End of CnC-List Digest, Vol 132, Issue 61
> *
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Stus-List (no subject)

[Dave via CnC-List]

Was going to say this, for docking, you can just tie a breastline to the 
toerail...
I have a line run from bow cleat, tied to toerail beside the cockpit with 
enough slack that I can drop it over the cleat at my slip when docking 
singlehanded.  I then turn the helm slightly away from the dock, put the boat 
back in gear and just leave it idling.The boat takes up the slack and 
snuggles itself against the dock, bow gently trying to turn away, and idles 
there while I step ashore to secure things.I have a length of plastic 
tubing over the line to stiffen it and make it easy to drop over the cleat 
while drifting by.Watched a neighbour do that a few years back and copied 
him.  very simple.  

Dave.

Message: 5
Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2016 01:47:50 +
From: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Handling Skill
Message-ID:
   <ca+zacrahaqozxvxwrcahjgbdjoa+8mj+nfjitaj4ass+e+8...@mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

Funny you should mention a midships cleat.  My wife has been begging me for
a midships cleat/solution of some sort.  I finally had some time and made
some amsteel loops that I luggage tagged onto the toe rail at the midships
position.  I tie my mooring line to it with a sheet bend.  The amsteel is
rated at ~9000 pounds and the loop doubled over quadruples the number of
fibers carrying the load so I feel very confident that the loop is not the
weak point in the system.  When I'm done using the loops  they just live
there on the rail until next time.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, M

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Stus-List (no subject)

[Jesse A. Rieber via CnC-List]

I would like to contact Richard Tieleu who has a posting on the site 
demonstrating toe rail recaulking.  I need to do this work this winter, however 
I cannot find the material he used in the width that he had.
Jesse A. Rieber
Witch of Westmoreland 32' C
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Re: Stus-List (no subject) -> Raymarine repair and firmware update experience

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Dave,

A while back I noticed that my Raymarine SPX-5 autopilot did not have the most 
recent firmware, but at that time I did not rush to update as I had no 
mechanism, like you, to do so.  To me it was not a major issue as the autopilot 
was working fine.  I operated it as stand alone device which I would mainly use 
to maintain a course heading or to occasionally assist in tacking.   

During it’s 4th or 5th year of use (after warranty), I started having problems 
with the autopilot drifting off course, then failing to recalibrate, and 
finally not working at all.  I called Raymarine and a tech had me measure the 
resistance across several wires to check the compass and measure voltage at the 
wheel drive.  After doing so, a tech stated that the problem was with the 
course computer, and that I need to send it in for repair.   I sailed my 29 for 
another year without a working autopilot before removing it and selling the 
vessel after purchasing my Landfall 38.  

Shortly before splashing the LF38 after some refitting, I sent the autopilot 
computer to Raymarine to see how much it was going to cost to fix it.  Over the 
phone, I was told that it would be a minimum of $99 for out of warranty repair 
work.  About a week after sending it in, I started calling to inquire on the 
repair.   The customer rep. took my contact info and told me they would contact 
me with a day or so.  The very next day, the unit arrived via UPS fully 
repaired and with an updated firmware.  I was expecting a pricey repair charge, 
but the only cost to me was the original USPS shipping fee to Raymarine. 

In your case, If the p70 firmware update provide important fixes or new must 
have functionality, you could look into sending it to Raymarine for the 
updating.  My guess is that they will do it free of charge.  I know it is not 
ideal, but at least it’s an option.

I have to admit, it was mostly this experience with Raymarine that later led me 
to purchasing a Raymarine e7d chart plotter, a Ray depth transducer, and a Ray 
Speed/Log/Temp system over other brands.  And recently an EV-200 autopilot (but 
with the octopus 1212LAR12 linear drive). 


-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Sep 21, 2016, at 8:57 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Graham/all - to be clear, to me the issue is not so much being able to update 
> one Manufacturer's firmware from another's device, it's about not being able 
> to update it at all, without a MFD  (hence the 'accessories to MFD subject 
> line').  Raymarine could easily have elected to permit updates by some other 
> means at the network level or at the device, but didn't.  
> 
> Read the manual before buying?  Just dug them out and here's  what it says in 
> my pristine p70 autopilot controller manual:
> 
> '- software revision
> Raymarine regularly updates product software to add new features and improve 
> existing functionality.  This document covers lighthouse version 3.xx which 
> should be used in conjunction with ev... Blah blah 
> Check the raymarine website to ensure you have the latest software and user 
> manuals.'
> 
> That's all it says, and I'm a bit surprised.  They address that software 
> updates  are part of ownership, and (rightly) offer and encourage the happy 
> new autopilot purchaser to update their software, even helpfully directing 
> them to the website.(Sounds great, here's my money!). One minor detail 
> seems to have been omitted...  
> 
> It been an interesting topic to explore, with interesting perspectives.   
> I'll  figure out a way to sort it.   I like the raymarine instruments and 
> their people were accessible and courteous.  The more I dig into it though, 
> the more convinced I am that their approach to this is unethical, 
> irrespective of how one might feel about their broader strategy.   (The 
> manual ices it.). Anyway, now we know, as will others who read the 
> discussion. 
> 
> I didn't hate them, but I'm starting to.
> 
> Mic drop... ;-)
> 
> Dave

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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Stus-List (no subject)

[Dave via CnC-List]

Graham/all - to be clear, to me the issue is not so much being able to update 
one Manufacturer's firmware from another's device, it's about not being able to 
update it at all, without a MFD  (hence the 'accessories to MFD subject line'). 
 Raymarine could easily have elected to permit updates by some other means at 
the network level or at the device, but didn't.  

Read the manual before buying?  Just dug them out and here's  what it says in 
my pristine p70 autopilot controller manual:

'- software revision
Raymarine regularly updates product software to add new features and improve 
existing functionality.  This document covers lighthouse version 3.xx which 
should be used in conjunction with ev... Blah blah 
Check the raymarine website to ensure you have the latest software and user 
manuals.'

That's all it says, and I'm a bit surprised.  They address that software 
updates  are part of ownership, and (rightly) offer and encourage the happy new 
autopilot purchaser to update their software, even helpfully directing them to 
the website.(Sounds great, here's my money!). One minor detail seems to 
have been omitted...  

It been an interesting topic to explore, with interesting perspectives.   I'll  
figure out a way to sort it.   I like the raymarine instruments and their 
people were accessible and courteous.  The more I dig into it though, the more 
convinced I am that their approach to this is unethical, irrespective of how 
one might feel about their broader strategy.   (The manual ices it.). Anyway, 
now we know, as will others who read the discussion. 

I didn't hate them, but I'm starting to.

Mic drop... ;-)

Dave



> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2016 00:02:16 +
> From: G Collins <cnclistforw...@hotmail.com>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Raymarine exits the instrument, vhf and
>autopilot business!
> Message-ID:
>
> <bn6pr14mb163426959a8cb182952654ecd8...@bn6pr14mb1634.namprd14.prod.outlook.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="Windows-1252"
> 
> You Ray haters kill me...   just kidding!  But sometimes it pays to read 
> the manual before you buy, and they are all available online these days.
> 
> That Garmin thing is a cool solution, I like it.  The Navico (B) 
> version doesn't seem to be available anywhere, so that may have been a 
> possible route to firmware updates but no longer...
> 
> I guess my conclusion early on was to get a MDF that goes with the big 
> electronics on the boat, so my a75 MDF can update my EV200 autopilot.  
> And IMHO it makes sense to have the same brand of anyway, so that you 
> are sure they will work together as best they can.  My wind/speed/depth 
> system, since it is B, is essentially orphaned.  I'm not so concerned 
> with that.  And I am quite happy with my Raymarine gear, whereas I've 
> had two Triton displays malfunction on me in the same 3 seasons.
> 
> As to why you can't update one companies gear from another companies 
> MDF, I can't see any company signing up for that - say I update my B 
> firmware over my Ray MDF, and next thing my Triton displays are bricks - 
> who do I call to get it resolved? That would not be a fun day.
> 
> Graham Collins
> Secret Plans
> C 35-III #11
> 
>> 

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greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[rjcasciato--- via CnC-List]

Thanks Rick


If I  decide to switch, I would likely do the 46 size.it just fits on the 
coaming top and should have the power for the 150..


We sailed in the ONE Regatta over the weekend and both days started out below 
8kts but built to just over 15kts by the finish..that's definitely very 
near the limit for my 150, but we only had 4 crew and changing down to the 135 
was never an option..


I'm still unsure how to select the Pontos winch type,  the "trimmer" is 
suggested as more powerful.but the "grinder" is supposed to be 
faster..we definitely needed both yesterday.


And my useage is only for Genoa work..halyards and such are no problem at 
this time.


Thanks again

Ron


Get Outlook for Android






On Sat, Aug 27, 2016 at 10:31 PM -0400, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:












I got the power ratio numbers from the winch performance information for the 
Grinder 40 on the Defender website.

 

I see that 1st & 2nd gears on the Trimmer are the same as 3rd & 4th on the 
Grinder.

 

14 CM  of line recovery per handle revolution in the fastest gear for the 
Trimmer. One of the metric folks on the list help me… that’s, what, 5.5 inches? 
And 1.4 CM in the lowest gear is about 6/10ths of an inch per revolution?

 

Max working load is 1870 pounds for both the Grinder & Trimmer. I wonder what 
the sheet loads are on a 155 on a 38 mk2 in 15 knots of true wind? According to 
the Harken calculator, for my 135 in 20 knots apparent (which is around 13 or 
14 true) the sheet load is 969 pounds.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2016 5:50 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

 

I am not sure where Rick got his numbers.  I looked into this recently after an 
elbow injury made me consider replacing my Baronet 28s.  The Pontos Trimmer 4 
speed ($1600) has a power ratio of 113 in its maximum power gear.  If I replace 
my winches at some point, that is what I am planning to use.  Dave

 

On Aug 26, 2016, at 10:29 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
wrote:

 

Yes the Pontos 4 speed 40 is $1600. (Which, BTW is $300 more than a Lewmar 
Ocean 40 and $600 more than a Lewmar EVO 40) And it gets line in fast. And it 
shifts gears automatically at a comfortable 25 pounds on the winch handle. But…

 

The ultimate power ratio in the lowest gear is still a 40 – which means it has 
the same power as the Barient 24 that came as the halyard winch on my 38. (And 
that I have installed as primaries on my C)

 

Ron, you indicated dissatisfaction with how hard it is to grind in your 155 
with the current Barient 28’s. The current Barient 28’s have a power ratio of 
52 – the same as the Pontos 52’s that sell at Defender for $3400 each.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

Dr. David Knecht

Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology

Core Microscopy Facility Director

University of Connecticut  

91 N. Eagleville Rd.

Storrs, CT 06269

860-486-2200

 




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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I got the power ratio numbers from the winch performance information for the 
Grinder 40 on the Defender website.

 

I see that 1st & 2nd gears on the Trimmer are the same as 3rd & 4th on the 
Grinder.

 

14 CM  of line recovery per handle revolution in the fastest gear for the 
Trimmer. One of the metric folks on the list help me… that’s, what, 5.5 inches? 
And 1.4 CM in the lowest gear is about 6/10ths of an inch per revolution?

 

Max working load is 1870 pounds for both the Grinder & Trimmer. I wonder what 
the sheet loads are on a 155 on a 38 mk2 in 15 knots of true wind? According to 
the Harken calculator, for my 135 in 20 knots apparent (which is around 13 or 
14 true) the sheet load is 969 pounds.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of David Knecht 
via CnC-List
Sent: Saturday, August 27, 2016 5:50 PM
To: CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

 

I am not sure where Rick got his numbers.  I looked into this recently after an 
elbow injury made me consider replacing my Baronet 28s.  The Pontos Trimmer 4 
speed ($1600) has a power ratio of 113 in its maximum power gear.  If I replace 
my winches at some point, that is what I am planning to use.  Dave

 

On Aug 26, 2016, at 10:29 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

 

Yes the Pontos 4 speed 40 is $1600. (Which, BTW is $300 more than a Lewmar 
Ocean 40 and $600 more than a Lewmar EVO 40) And it gets line in fast. And it 
shifts gears automatically at a comfortable 25 pounds on the winch handle. But…

 

The ultimate power ratio in the lowest gear is still a 40 – which means it has 
the same power as the Barient 24 that came as the halyard winch on my 38. (And 
that I have installed as primaries on my C)

 

Ron, you indicated dissatisfaction with how hard it is to grind in your 155 
with the current Barient 28’s. The current Barient 28’s have a power ratio of 
52 – the same as the Pontos 52’s that sell at Defender for $3400 each.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

Dr. David Knecht

Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology

Core Microscopy Facility Director

University of Connecticut  

91 N. Eagleville Rd.

Storrs, CT 06269

860-486-2200

 

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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[David Knecht via CnC-List]

I am not sure where Rick got his numbers.  I looked into this recently after an 
elbow injury made me consider replacing my Baronet 28s.  The Pontos Trimmer 4 
speed ($1600) has a power ratio of 113 in its maximum power gear.  If I replace 
my winches at some point, that is what I am planning to use.  Dave

> On Aug 26, 2016, at 10:29 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List  > wrote:
> 
> Yes the Pontos 4 speed 40 is $1600. (Which, BTW is $300 more than a Lewmar 
> Ocean 40 and $600 more than a Lewmar EVO 40) And it gets line in fast. And it 
> shifts gears automatically at a comfortable 25 pounds on the winch handle. 
> But…
>  
> The ultimate power ratio in the lowest gear is still a 40 – which means it 
> has the same power as the Barient 24 that came as the halyard winch on my 38. 
> (And that I have installed as primaries on my C)
>  
> Ron, you indicated dissatisfaction with how hard it is to grind in your 155 
> with the current Barient 28’s. The current Barient 28’s have a power ratio of 
> 52 – the same as the Pontos 52’s that sell at Defender for $3400 each.
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>  
>  

Dr. David Knecht
Professor of Molecular and Cell Biology
Core Microscopy Facility Director
University of Connecticut   
91 N. Eagleville Rd.
Storrs, CT 06269
860-486-2200

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

Yes the Pontos 4 speed 40 is $1600. (Which, BTW is $300 more than a Lewmar 
Ocean 40 and $600 more than a Lewmar EVO 40) And it gets line in fast. And it 
shifts gears automatically at a comfortable 25 pounds on the winch handle. But…

 

The ultimate power ratio in the lowest gear is still a 40 – which means it has 
the same power as the Barient 24 that came as the halyard winch on my 38. (And 
that I have installed as primaries on my C)

 

Ron, you indicated dissatisfaction with how hard it is to grind in your 155 
with the current Barient 28’s. The current Barient 28’s have a power ratio of 
52 – the same as the Pontos 52’s that sell at Defender for $3400 each.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2016 1:25 PM
To: C List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: Josh Muckley <muckl...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

 

$1600

On Aug 26, 2016 1:21 PM, "Josh Muckley" <muckl...@gmail.com 
<mailto:muckl...@gmail.com> > wrote:

Way better priced than I thought!

http://www.defender.com/pontos.jsp

Josh

On Aug 26, 2016 1:04 PM, "Rjcasciato via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Thanks Josh…….have you seen any pricing for the 4 speeds?  Ron

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> ] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2016 12:41 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

 

Those 4 speed auto jobs shift at roughly a comfortable 25 lbs!

Josh

On Aug 26, 2016 12:35 PM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

One occasionally sees Barient 36’s on EBay for a grand or so each. The 36 has a 
power ratio of around 62, which according to the Harken formula I mentioned 
would bring the force on the end of the winch handle to about 55 pounds for my 
135. 

 

The Lewmar EVO65ST’s on Defender at a bit under $3k each would be pricey 
(though a lot less than Harkens), but would do the job you want.

 

You can buy Barient 32 non-self-tailers on EBay pretty reasonably. And get 32ST 
conversion kits from Winchmate for $650 per winch. So you might be able to put 
32ST’s in place of the 28ST’s for something like $2500 all up. The bases on my 
32s are almost the same diameter as the 28s. Move the 28s and use them for your 
spinnaker – for which they work well.

 

I have the same situation as you do with the lifelines being close to the 
winches. So I use the double grip winch handles for trimming to assist the 
grinder. Don’t do diddly for single handing. I did move my stanchions out to 
the toerail, which made for slightly more clearance, but using a long winch 
handle is still problematic.

 

Have you thought about using some of your resources to recruit a couple of 
“winch apes” from a local college, rather than spending big bucks to upgrade 
the winches? Tell them it’s cross-fit training and will get them a spot on one 
of those TV reality shows.

 

Some old information from Harken indicated that the  average male could exert a 
max of around 50 pounds in a horizontal direction, about 75-100 pulling up, and 
125-150 pulling down (IIRC, Though I’m certain of the 50 pound number). The 
information about selecting winches from the Harken site currently recommends 
keeping the force level around 35 for longer term comfort and a mixed sex crew.

 

BTW, the formula on the Harken Website is:

 

(Sail Area X 6) / Power ratio = Force or(Sail Area X 6) 
/force = power ratio

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> ] On Behalf Of rjcasciato via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2016 11:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
Cc: rjcasciato <rjcasci...@comcast.net <mailto:rjcasci...@comcast.net> >
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

 

Thanks Rick and Josh...

 

To correct my earlier post...my current winches are Barient 28ST's.the 
width of the winch coming is 9" and the winch base measures at 8.5" now.  The 
lower life line is about 9" from the center of the winch...

 

So the situation on by boat is.she is set up to race only.she was 
sailed by a nice old couple on the way to church once a week during the mid 
80's up to 1997.  When I bought her in 1997, I started an almost annual process 
of upgrading .the boat now not only looks great, but races very well to her 
rating in PHRF.

These winches are original to the boat (1977) and have been rebuilt at least 
once by me

 

We sail with a Pentax 155 and a full batte

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

$1600
On Aug 26, 2016 1:21 PM, "Josh Muckley" <muckl...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Way better priced than I thought!
>
> http://www.defender.com/pontos.jsp
>
> Josh
> On Aug 26, 2016 1:04 PM, "Rjcasciato via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Thanks Josh…….have you seen any pricing for the 4 speeds?  Ron
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
>> Muckley via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, August 26, 2016 12:41 PM
>> *To:* C List
>> *Cc:* Josh Muckley
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII
>>
>>
>>
>> Those 4 speed auto jobs shift at roughly a comfortable 25 lbs!
>>
>> Josh
>>
>> On Aug 26, 2016 12:35 PM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> One occasionally sees Barient 36’s on EBay for a grand or so each. The 36
>> has a power ratio of around 62, which according to the Harken formula I
>> mentioned would bring the force on the end of the winch handle to about 55
>> pounds for my 135.
>>
>>
>>
>> The Lewmar EVO65ST’s on Defender at a bit under $3k each would be pricey
>> (though a lot less than Harkens), but would do the job you want.
>>
>>
>>
>> You can buy Barient 32 non-self-tailers on EBay pretty reasonably. And
>> get 32ST conversion kits from Winchmate for $650 per winch. So you might be
>> able to put 32ST’s in place of the 28ST’s for something like $2500 all up.
>> The bases on my 32s are almost the same diameter as the 28s. Move the 28s
>> and use them for your spinnaker – for which they work well.
>>
>>
>>
>> I have the same situation as you do with the lifelines being close to the
>> winches. So I use the double grip winch handles for trimming to assist the
>> grinder. Don’t do diddly for single handing. I did move my stanchions out
>> to the toerail, which made for slightly more clearance, but using a long
>> winch handle is still problematic.
>>
>>
>>
>> Have you thought about using some of your resources to recruit a couple
>> of “winch apes” from a local college, rather than spending big bucks to
>> upgrade the winches? Tell them it’s cross-fit training and will get them a
>> spot on one of those TV reality shows.
>>
>>
>>
>> Some old information from Harken indicated that the  average male could
>> exert a max of around 50 pounds in a horizontal direction, about 75-100
>> pulling up, and 125-150 pulling down (IIRC, Though I’m certain of the 50
>> pound number). The information about selecting winches from the Harken site
>> currently recommends keeping the force level around 35 for longer term
>> comfort and a mixed sex crew.
>>
>>
>>
>> BTW, the formula on the Harken Website is:
>>
>>
>>
>> (Sail Area X 6) / Power ratio = Force or(Sail Area X
>> 6) /force = power ratio
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> Washington, NC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
>> *rjcasciato
>> via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, August 26, 2016 11:41 AM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* rjcasciato <rjcasci...@comcast.net>
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks Rick and Josh...
>>
>>
>>
>> To correct my earlier post...my current winches are Barient
>> 28ST's.the width of the winch coming is 9" and the winch base measures
>> at 8.5" now.  The lower life line is about 9" from the center of the
>> winch...
>>
>>
>>
>> So the situation on by boat is.she is set up to race only.she was
>> sailed by a nice old couple on the way to church once a week during the mid
>> 80's up to 1997.  When I bought her in 1997, I started an almost annual
>> process of upgrading .the boat now not only looks great, but races very
>> well to her rating in PHRF.
>>
>> These winches are original to the boat (1977) and have been rebuilt at
>> least once by me
>>
>>
>>
>> We sail with a Pentax 155 and a full batten main .also a 135 and a
>> 110.
>>
>>
>>
>> It takes a gorilla to bring the 155 in when tacking in anything over 8kts.
>>
>>
>>
>> I like the idea of longer handles but there's the i

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Way better priced than I thought!

http://www.defender.com/pontos.jsp

Josh
On Aug 26, 2016 1:04 PM, "Rjcasciato via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Thanks Josh…….have you seen any pricing for the 4 speeds?  Ron
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, August 26, 2016 12:41 PM
> *To:* C List
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII
>
>
>
> Those 4 speed auto jobs shift at roughly a comfortable 25 lbs!
>
> Josh
>
> On Aug 26, 2016 12:35 PM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> One occasionally sees Barient 36’s on EBay for a grand or so each. The 36
> has a power ratio of around 62, which according to the Harken formula I
> mentioned would bring the force on the end of the winch handle to about 55
> pounds for my 135.
>
>
>
> The Lewmar EVO65ST’s on Defender at a bit under $3k each would be pricey
> (though a lot less than Harkens), but would do the job you want.
>
>
>
> You can buy Barient 32 non-self-tailers on EBay pretty reasonably. And get
> 32ST conversion kits from Winchmate for $650 per winch. So you might be
> able to put 32ST’s in place of the 28ST’s for something like $2500 all up.
> The bases on my 32s are almost the same diameter as the 28s. Move the 28s
> and use them for your spinnaker – for which they work well.
>
>
>
> I have the same situation as you do with the lifelines being close to the
> winches. So I use the double grip winch handles for trimming to assist the
> grinder. Don’t do diddly for single handing. I did move my stanchions out
> to the toerail, which made for slightly more clearance, but using a long
> winch handle is still problematic.
>
>
>
> Have you thought about using some of your resources to recruit a couple of
> “winch apes” from a local college, rather than spending big bucks to
> upgrade the winches? Tell them it’s cross-fit training and will get them a
> spot on one of those TV reality shows.
>
>
>
> Some old information from Harken indicated that the  average male could
> exert a max of around 50 pounds in a horizontal direction, about 75-100
> pulling up, and 125-150 pulling down (IIRC, Though I’m certain of the 50
> pound number). The information about selecting winches from the Harken site
> currently recommends keeping the force level around 35 for longer term
> comfort and a mixed sex crew.
>
>
>
> BTW, the formula on the Harken Website is:
>
>
>
> (Sail Area X 6) / Power ratio = Force or(Sail Area X
> 6) /force = power ratio
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *rjcasciato
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, August 26, 2016 11:41 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* rjcasciato <rjcasci...@comcast.net>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII
>
>
>
> Thanks Rick and Josh...
>
>
>
> To correct my earlier post...my current winches are Barient 28ST's.the
> width of the winch coming is 9" and the winch base measures at 8.5" now.
> The lower life line is about 9" from the center of the winch...
>
>
>
> So the situation on by boat is.she is set up to race only.she was
> sailed by a nice old couple on the way to church once a week during the mid
> 80's up to 1997.  When I bought her in 1997, I started an almost annual
> process of upgrading .the boat now not only looks great, but races very
> well to her rating in PHRF.
>
> These winches are original to the boat (1977) and have been rebuilt at
> least once by me
>
>
>
> We sail with a Pentax 155 and a full batten main .also a 135 and a 110.
>
>
>
> It takes a gorilla to bring the 155 in when tacking in anything over 8kts.
>
>
>
> I like the idea of longer handles but there's the issue of hitting the
> lifelines, etc.
>
>
>
> I just think it's time to move on to a modern winch..
>
> Harken is the obvious choice, but I thought there might be an alternative
> to their pricing..
>
> Weight is also a religion on my boat, so big heavy and chrome don't make
> it
>
>
>
> Thanks again
>
> Ron
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>
> Date: 8/26/16 12:18 AM (GMT-05:00)
>
>

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I was thinking $4k each but no.  I'll see what I can find.
On Aug 26, 2016 1:04 PM, "Rjcasciato via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Thanks Josh…….have you seen any pricing for the 4 speeds?  Ron
>
>
> --
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Josh
> Muckley via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, August 26, 2016 12:41 PM
> *To:* C List
> *Cc:* Josh Muckley
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII
>
>
>
> Those 4 speed auto jobs shift at roughly a comfortable 25 lbs!
>
> Josh
>
> On Aug 26, 2016 12:35 PM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> wrote:
>
> One occasionally sees Barient 36’s on EBay for a grand or so each. The 36
> has a power ratio of around 62, which according to the Harken formula I
> mentioned would bring the force on the end of the winch handle to about 55
> pounds for my 135.
>
>
>
> The Lewmar EVO65ST’s on Defender at a bit under $3k each would be pricey
> (though a lot less than Harkens), but would do the job you want.
>
>
>
> You can buy Barient 32 non-self-tailers on EBay pretty reasonably. And get
> 32ST conversion kits from Winchmate for $650 per winch. So you might be
> able to put 32ST’s in place of the 28ST’s for something like $2500 all up.
> The bases on my 32s are almost the same diameter as the 28s. Move the 28s
> and use them for your spinnaker – for which they work well.
>
>
>
> I have the same situation as you do with the lifelines being close to the
> winches. So I use the double grip winch handles for trimming to assist the
> grinder. Don’t do diddly for single handing. I did move my stanchions out
> to the toerail, which made for slightly more clearance, but using a long
> winch handle is still problematic.
>
>
>
> Have you thought about using some of your resources to recruit a couple of
> “winch apes” from a local college, rather than spending big bucks to
> upgrade the winches? Tell them it’s cross-fit training and will get them a
> spot on one of those TV reality shows.
>
>
>
> Some old information from Harken indicated that the  average male could
> exert a max of around 50 pounds in a horizontal direction, about 75-100
> pulling up, and 125-150 pulling down (IIRC, Though I’m certain of the 50
> pound number). The information about selecting winches from the Harken site
> currently recommends keeping the force level around 35 for longer term
> comfort and a mixed sex crew.
>
>
>
> BTW, the formula on the Harken Website is:
>
>
>
> (Sail Area X 6) / Power ratio = Force or(Sail Area X
> 6) /force = power ratio
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *rjcasciato
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, August 26, 2016 11:41 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* rjcasciato <rjcasci...@comcast.net>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII
>
>
>
> Thanks Rick and Josh...
>
>
>
> To correct my earlier post...my current winches are Barient 28ST's.the
> width of the winch coming is 9" and the winch base measures at 8.5" now.
> The lower life line is about 9" from the center of the winch...
>
>
>
> So the situation on by boat is.she is set up to race only.she was
> sailed by a nice old couple on the way to church once a week during the mid
> 80's up to 1997.  When I bought her in 1997, I started an almost annual
> process of upgrading .the boat now not only looks great, but races very
> well to her rating in PHRF.
>
> These winches are original to the boat (1977) and have been rebuilt at
> least once by me
>
>
>
> We sail with a Pentax 155 and a full batten main .also a 135 and a 110.
>
>
>
> It takes a gorilla to bring the 155 in when tacking in anything over 8kts.
>
>
>
> I like the idea of longer handles but there's the issue of hitting the
> lifelines, etc.
>
>
>
> I just think it's time to move on to a modern winch..
>
> Harken is the obvious choice, but I thought there might be an alternative
> to their pricing..
>
> Weight is also a religion on my boat, so big heavy and chrome don't make
> it
>
>
>
> Thanks again
>
> Ron
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>
> Date: 8/26/16 12:18 AM (GMT-05:00)
>
> To: cnc-list@cnc

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Thanks Josh...have you seen any pricing for the 4 speeds?  Ron

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh
Muckley via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2016 12:41 PM
To: C List
Cc: Josh Muckley
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

 

Those 4 speed auto jobs shift at roughly a comfortable 25 lbs!

Josh

On Aug 26, 2016 12:35 PM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

One occasionally sees Barient 36's on EBay for a grand or so each. The 36
has a power ratio of around 62, which according to the Harken formula I
mentioned would bring the force on the end of the winch handle to about 55
pounds for my 135. 

 

The Lewmar EVO65ST's on Defender at a bit under $3k each would be pricey
(though a lot less than Harkens), but would do the job you want.

 

You can buy Barient 32 non-self-tailers on EBay pretty reasonably. And get
32ST conversion kits from Winchmate for $650 per winch. So you might be able
to put 32ST's in place of the 28ST's for something like $2500 all up. The
bases on my 32s are almost the same diameter as the 28s. Move the 28s and
use them for your spinnaker - for which they work well.

 

I have the same situation as you do with the lifelines being close to the
winches. So I use the double grip winch handles for trimming to assist the
grinder. Don't do diddly for single handing. I did move my stanchions out to
the toerail, which made for slightly more clearance, but using a long winch
handle is still problematic.

 

Have you thought about using some of your resources to recruit a couple of
"winch apes" from a local college, rather than spending big bucks to upgrade
the winches? Tell them it's cross-fit training and will get them a spot on
one of those TV reality shows.

 

Some old information from Harken indicated that the  average male could
exert a max of around 50 pounds in a horizontal direction, about 75-100
pulling up, and 125-150 pulling down (IIRC, Though I'm certain of the 50
pound number). The information about selecting winches from the Harken site
currently recommends keeping the force level around 35 for longer term
comfort and a mixed sex crew.

 

BTW, the formula on the Harken Website is:

 

(Sail Area X 6) / Power ratio = Force or(Sail Area X 6)
/force = power ratio

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-bounces@cnc-
<mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com> list.com] On Behalf Of rjcasciato via
CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2016 11:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: rjcasciato <rjcasci...@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

 

Thanks Rick and Josh...

 

To correct my earlier post...my current winches are Barient 28ST's.the
width of the winch coming is 9" and the winch base measures at 8.5" now.
The lower life line is about 9" from the center of the winch...

 

So the situation on by boat is.she is set up to race only.she was
sailed by a nice old couple on the way to church once a week during the mid
80's up to 1997.  When I bought her in 1997, I started an almost annual
process of upgrading .the boat now not only looks great, but races very
well to her rating in PHRF.

These winches are original to the boat (1977) and have been rebuilt at least
once by me

 

We sail with a Pentax 155 and a full batten main .also a 135 and a 110.

 

It takes a gorilla to bring the 155 in when tacking in anything over 8kts.

 

I like the idea of longer handles but there's the issue of hitting the
lifelines, etc.

 

I just think it's time to move on to a modern winch..

Harken is the obvious choice, but I thought there might be an alternative to
their pricing..

Weight is also a religion on my boat, so big heavy and chrome don't make
it

 

Thanks again 

Ron

 

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 Original message 

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 

Date: 8/26/16 12:18 AM (GMT-05:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Cc: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net> 

Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII 

 

38ST's? Those must be huge.

 

I replaced the old Merriman 33 primaries on Imzadi with Barient 32s
(equivalent to Anderson/Lewmar/Harken 58 or 56), and I'm in the process of
upgrading to 32ST's to make single handing easier. 

 

But even with these big winches cranking in the 155 was a chore. The 135
headsail I now use is easier, but I can't imagine that I would want anything
smaller unless I was limiting the size of the headsail to 100 or 110 and not
going out in winds of 20 apparent or more. 

 

I've tried using the Barient 28 secondaries (equivalent to Harken 52s) to
trim the headsail a few times. The bigger winched are noticeably easier.

 

Harken recommends a formula based on sail area to calcu

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Those 4 speed auto jobs shift at roughly a comfortable 25 lbs!

Josh
On Aug 26, 2016 12:35 PM, "Rick Brass via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> One occasionally sees Barient 36’s on EBay for a grand or so each. The 36
> has a power ratio of around 62, which according to the Harken formula I
> mentioned would bring the force on the end of the winch handle to about 55
> pounds for my 135.
>
>
>
> The Lewmar EVO65ST’s on Defender at a bit under $3k each would be pricey
> (though a lot less than Harkens), but would do the job you want.
>
>
>
> You can buy Barient 32 non-self-tailers on EBay pretty reasonably. And get
> 32ST conversion kits from Winchmate for $650 per winch. So you might be
> able to put 32ST’s in place of the 28ST’s for something like $2500 all up.
> The bases on my 32s are almost the same diameter as the 28s. Move the 28s
> and use them for your spinnaker – for which they work well.
>
>
>
> I have the same situation as you do with the lifelines being close to the
> winches. So I use the double grip winch handles for trimming to assist the
> grinder. Don’t do diddly for single handing. I did move my stanchions out
> to the toerail, which made for slightly more clearance, but using a long
> winch handle is still problematic.
>
>
>
> Have you thought about using some of your resources to recruit a couple of
> “winch apes” from a local college, rather than spending big bucks to
> upgrade the winches? Tell them it’s cross-fit training and will get them a
> spot on one of those TV reality shows.
>
>
>
> Some old information from Harken indicated that the  average male could
> exert a max of around 50 pounds in a horizontal direction, about 75-100
> pulling up, and 125-150 pulling down (IIRC, Though I’m certain of the 50
> pound number). The information about selecting winches from the Harken site
> currently recommends keeping the force level around 35 for longer term
> comfort and a mixed sex crew.
>
>
>
> BTW, the formula on the Harken Website is:
>
>
>
> (Sail Area X 6) / Power ratio = Force or(Sail Area X
> 6) /force = power ratio
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
> *rjcasciato
> via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, August 26, 2016 11:41 AM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* rjcasciato <rjcasci...@comcast.net>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII
>
>
>
> Thanks Rick and Josh...
>
>
>
> To correct my earlier post...my current winches are Barient 28ST's.the
> width of the winch coming is 9" and the winch base measures at 8.5" now.
> The lower life line is about 9" from the center of the winch...
>
>
>
> So the situation on by boat is.she is set up to race only.she was
> sailed by a nice old couple on the way to church once a week during the mid
> 80's up to 1997.  When I bought her in 1997, I started an almost annual
> process of upgrading .the boat now not only looks great, but races very
> well to her rating in PHRF.
>
> These winches are original to the boat (1977) and have been rebuilt at
> least once by me
>
>
>
> We sail with a Pentax 155 and a full batten main .also a 135 and a 110.
>
>
>
> It takes a gorilla to bring the 155 in when tacking in anything over 8kts.
>
>
>
> I like the idea of longer handles but there's the issue of hitting the
> lifelines, etc.
>
>
>
> I just think it's time to move on to a modern winch..
>
> Harken is the obvious choice, but I thought there might be an alternative
> to their pricing..
>
> Weight is also a religion on my boat, so big heavy and chrome don't make
> it
>
>
>
> Thanks again
>
> Ron
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
>
>
>
>  Original message 
>
> From: Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>
> Date: 8/26/16 12:18 AM (GMT-05:00)
>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>
> Cc: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net>
>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII
>
>
>
> 38ST’s? Those must be huge.
>
>
>
> I replaced the old Merriman 33 primaries on Imzadi with Barient 32s
> (equivalent to Anderson/Lewmar/Harken 58 or 56), and I’m in the process of
> upgrading to 32ST’s to make single handing easier.
>
>
>
> But even with these big winches cranking in the 155 was a chore. The 135
> headsail I now use is easier, but I can’t imagine that I would want
> anything sm

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

One occasionally sees Barient 36’s on EBay for a grand or so each. The 36 has a 
power ratio of around 62, which according to the Harken formula I mentioned 
would bring the force on the end of the winch handle to about 55 pounds for my 
135. 

 

The Lewmar EVO65ST’s on Defender at a bit under $3k each would be pricey 
(though a lot less than Harkens), but would do the job you want.

 

You can buy Barient 32 non-self-tailers on EBay pretty reasonably. And get 32ST 
conversion kits from Winchmate for $650 per winch. So you might be able to put 
32ST’s in place of the 28ST’s for something like $2500 all up. The bases on my 
32s are almost the same diameter as the 28s. Move the 28s and use them for your 
spinnaker – for which they work well.

 

I have the same situation as you do with the lifelines being close to the 
winches. So I use the double grip winch handles for trimming to assist the 
grinder. Don’t do diddly for single handing. I did move my stanchions out to 
the toerail, which made for slightly more clearance, but using a long winch 
handle is still problematic.

 

Have you thought about using some of your resources to recruit a couple of 
“winch apes” from a local college, rather than spending big bucks to upgrade 
the winches? Tell them it’s cross-fit training and will get them a spot on one 
of those TV reality shows.

 

Some old information from Harken indicated that the  average male could exert a 
max of around 50 pounds in a horizontal direction, about 75-100 pulling up, and 
125-150 pulling down (IIRC, Though I’m certain of the 50 pound number). The 
information about selecting winches from the Harken site currently recommends 
keeping the force level around 35 for longer term comfort and a mixed sex crew.

 

BTW, the formula on the Harken Website is:

 

(Sail Area X 6) / Power ratio = Force or(Sail Area X 6) 
/force = power ratio

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of rjcasciato 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, August 26, 2016 11:41 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: rjcasciato <rjcasci...@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

 

Thanks Rick and Josh...

 

To correct my earlier post...my current winches are Barient 28ST's.the 
width of the winch coming is 9" and the winch base measures at 8.5" now.  The 
lower life line is about 9" from the center of the winch...

 

So the situation on by boat is.she is set up to race only.she was 
sailed by a nice old couple on the way to church once a week during the mid 
80's up to 1997.  When I bought her in 1997, I started an almost annual process 
of upgrading .the boat now not only looks great, but races very well to her 
rating in PHRF.

These winches are original to the boat (1977) and have been rebuilt at least 
once by me

 

We sail with a Pentax 155 and a full batten main .also a 135 and a 110.

 

It takes a gorilla to bring the 155 in when tacking in anything over 8kts.

 

I like the idea of longer handles but there's the issue of hitting the 
lifelines, etc.

 

I just think it's time to move on to a modern winch..

Harken is the obvious choice, but I thought there might be an alternative to 
their pricing..

Weight is also a religion on my boat, so big heavy and chrome don't make it

 

Thanks again 

Ron

 

 

 

 

Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone

 

 Original message 

From: Rick Brass via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > 

Date: 8/26/16 12:18 AM (GMT-05:00) 

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>  

Cc: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net <mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net> > 

Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII 

 

38ST’s? Those must be huge.

 

I replaced the old Merriman 33 primaries on Imzadi with Barient 32s (equivalent 
to Anderson/Lewmar/Harken 58 or 56), and I’m in the process of upgrading to 
32ST’s to make single handing easier. 

 

But even with these big winches cranking in the 155 was a chore. The 135 
headsail I now use is easier, but I can’t imagine that I would want anything 
smaller unless I was limiting the size of the headsail to 100 or 110 and not 
going out in winds of 20 apparent or more. 

 

I’ve tried using the Barient 28 secondaries (equivalent to Harken 52s) to trim 
the headsail a few times. The bigger winched are noticeably easier.

 

Harken recommends a formula based on sail area to calculate the target power 
ratio of new winches. Based on a 400 sq. ft. headsail (100% on our boats) and a 
pull of 35 pounds on the winch handle, Harken 68’s are the right size for our 
boats. My 135 is 562 sq. ft., which means the load on the end of the winch 
handle can be as high as 60 pounds with my current winches. I’d definitely 
stick with the big winches.

 

So why are you r

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Thanks Rick and Josh...
To correct my earlier post...my current winches are Barient 28ST's.the 
width of the winch coming is 9" and the winch base measures at 8.5" now.  The 
lower life line is about 9" from the center of the winch...
So the situation on by boat is.she is set up to race only.she was 
sailed by a nice old couple on the way to church once a week during the mid 
80's up to 1997.  When I bought her in 1997, I started an almost annual process 
of upgrading .the boat now not only looks great, but races very well to her 
rating in PHRF.These winches are original to the boat (1977) and have been 
rebuilt at least once by me
We sail with a Pentax 155 and a full batten main .also a 135 and a 110.
It takes a gorilla to bring the 155 in when tacking in anything over 8kts.
I like the idea of longer handles but there's the issue of hitting the 
lifelines, etc.
I just think it's time to move on to a modern winch..Harken is the obvious 
choice, but I thought there might be an alternative to their pricing..Weight is 
also a religion on my boat, so big heavy and chrome don't make it
Thanks again Ron



Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone
 Original message From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com> Date: 8/26/16  12:18 AM  (GMT-05:00) To: 
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Rick Brass <rickbr...@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: 
Stus-List New Subject.  Winch replacement for a C 38MKII 
38ST’s? Those must be huge. I replaced the old Merriman 33 primaries on Imzadi 
with Barient 32s (equivalent to Anderson/Lewmar/Harken 58 or 56), and I’m in 
the process of upgrading to 32ST’s to make single handing easier.  But even 
with these big winches cranking in the 155 was a chore. The 135 headsail I now 
use is easier, but I can’t imagine that I would want anything smaller unless I 
was limiting the size of the headsail to 100 or 110 and not going out in winds 
of 20 apparent or more.  I’ve tried using the Barient 28 secondaries 
(equivalent to Harken 52s) to trim the headsail a few times. The bigger winched 
are noticeably easier. Harken recommends a formula based on sail area to 
calculate the target power ratio of new winches. Based on a 400 sq. ft. 
headsail (100% on our boats) and a pull of 35 pounds on the winch handle, 
Harken 68’s are the right size for our boats. My 135 is 562 sq. ft., which 
means the load on the end of the winch handle can be as high as 60 pounds with 
my current winches. I’d definitely stick with the big winches. So why are you 
replacing your big winches? Are they worn out beyond redemption? Rick 
BrassImzadi  C 38 mk 2la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1Washington, NC  From: 
CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rjcasciato via 
CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2016 10:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rjcasciato <rjcasci...@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII Hoping 
there is some help and advice out there among the group. I’m going to replace 
my primary winches on Impromptu over the winter.  Currently, I have a pair of 
Barient 38ST’s.  While I think it would be nice to try a 3 speed…….I’m sure 
that price is prohibitive. So given the size of the current winches.who has 
had some good experience with other manufacturers and keeping value in mind, 
any recommendations. The boat is used primarily for PHRF racing………but like most 
of , the crew is aging gracefully………..and I’d like to keep it that way. Thanks 
for your input and insight. Ron C.ImpromptuC 38MKIIC…..’77___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I thought they looked pretty cool when Defender first started selling them. But 
my observation is that the big benefit of the 4 speeds is getting the sheet in 
quickly when you tack. The biggest power ratio available is 52 – which Defender 
sells for about the same price as a Lewmar EVO65ST. Didn’t look like a very 
good value for my boat and sailing style.

 

But then, if you get the line in fast enough, before the boat gets on the wind 
and the sail loads up, you might not need to grind the sail in under load and 
could get by with a smaller winch.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bob 
McLaughlin via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2016 11:08 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Bob McLaughlin <rmclaughli...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

 

The August issue of Practical Sailor has a review on winches. The new 4-speed 
winches from Pontos sound very interesting, up to 18:1 gear ratio, well more 
than twice any others.  

 

Bob McLaughlin

C 110 "Blue Devil"


On Aug 25, 2016, at 9:34 PM, Rjcasciato via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Hoping there is some help and advice out there among the group.

 

I’m going to replace my primary winches on Impromptu over the winter.  
Currently, I have a pair of Barient 38ST’s.  While I think it would be nice to 
try a 3 speed…….I’m sure that price is prohibitive.

 

So given the size of the current winches.who has had some good experience 
with other manufacturers and keeping value in mind, any recommendations.

 

The boat is used primarily for PHRF racing………but like most of , the crew is 
aging gracefully………..and I’d like to keep it that way.

 

Thanks for your input and insight.

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

C 38MKIIC…..’77

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Some of the winches in the PS article shifted speed automatically!  How
cool!  I get the 2 speed winches and I assumed 3 speed had a button or
clutch or something. When I heard 4 speed I thought, "Well now that's just
silly.". That was until they explained the auto function!  I can't justify
new winches but boy if I could...

Are you replacing because of a problem?  Many things on a winch can be
repaired and if not ebay regularly has all manner of winches for sale.  If
you're looking to make the work easier then you might just consider longer
handles.  They are cheap by comparison.  Changing so you can have
self-tailers?  Get the winch mates.  Changing because you feel like it?
Since there is no problem with what you have nothing will be cost
effective, go all out and get the 4 speed autos.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Aug 25, 2016 11:09 PM, "Bob McLaughlin via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> The August issue of Practical Sailor has a review on winches. The new
> 4-speed winches from Pontos sound very interesting, up to 18:1 gear ratio,
> well more than twice any others.
>
> Bob McLaughlin
> C 110 "Blue Devil"
>
>
> On Aug 25, 2016, at 9:34 PM, Rjcasciato via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hoping there is some help and advice out there among the group.
>
>
>
> I’m going to replace my primary winches on Impromptu over the winter.
> Currently, I have a pair of Barient 38ST’s.  While I think it would be nice
> to try a 3 speed…….I’m sure that price is prohibitive.
>
>
>
> So given the size of the current winches.who has had some good
> experience with other manufacturers and keeping value in mind, any
> recommendations.
>
>
>
> The boat is used primarily for PHRF racing………but like most of , the crew
> is aging gracefully………..and I’d like to keep it that way.
>
>
>
> Thanks for your input and insight.
>
>
>
> Ron C.
>
> Impromptu
>
> C 38MKIIC…..’77
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

38ST's? Those must be huge.

 

I replaced the old Merriman 33 primaries on Imzadi with Barient 32s
(equivalent to Anderson/Lewmar/Harken 58 or 56), and I'm in the process of
upgrading to 32ST's to make single handing easier. 

 

But even with these big winches cranking in the 155 was a chore. The 135
headsail I now use is easier, but I can't imagine that I would want anything
smaller unless I was limiting the size of the headsail to 100 or 110 and not
going out in winds of 20 apparent or more. 

 

I've tried using the Barient 28 secondaries (equivalent to Harken 52s) to
trim the headsail a few times. The bigger winched are noticeably easier.

 

Harken recommends a formula based on sail area to calculate the target power
ratio of new winches. Based on a 400 sq. ft. headsail (100% on our boats)
and a pull of 35 pounds on the winch handle, Harken 68's are the right size
for our boats. My 135 is 562 sq. ft., which means the load on the end of the
winch handle can be as high as 60 pounds with my current winches. I'd
definitely stick with the big winches.

 

So why are you replacing your big winches? Are they worn out beyond
redemption?

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Rjcasciato via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2016 10:34 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rjcasciato <rjcasci...@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

 

Hoping there is some help and advice out there among the group.

 

I'm going to replace my primary winches on Impromptu over the winter.
Currently, I have a pair of Barient 38ST's.  While I think it would be nice
to try a 3 speed...I'm sure that price is prohibitive.

 

So given the size of the current winches.who has had some good
experience with other manufacturers and keeping value in mind, any
recommendations.

 

The boat is used primarily for PHRF racing...but like most of , the crew is
aging gracefully.and I'd like to keep it that way.

 

Thanks for your input and insight.

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

C 38MKIIC...'77

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Bob McLaughlin via CnC-List]

The August issue of Practical Sailor has a review on winches. The new 4-speed 
winches from Pontos sound very interesting, up to 18:1 gear ratio, well more 
than twice any others.  

Bob McLaughlin
C 110 "Blue Devil"


> On Aug 25, 2016, at 9:34 PM, Rjcasciato via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Hoping there is some help and advice out there among the group.
>  
> I’m going to replace my primary winches on Impromptu over the winter.  
> Currently, I have a pair of Barient 38ST’s.  While I think it would be nice 
> to try a 3 speed…….I’m sure that price is prohibitive.
>  
> So given the size of the current winches.who has had some good experience 
> with other manufacturers and keeping value in mind, any recommendations.
>  
> The boat is used primarily for PHRF racing………but like most of , the crew is 
> aging gracefully………..and I’d like to keep it that way.
>  
> Thanks for your input and insight.
>  
> Ron C.
> Impromptu
> C 38MKIIC…..’77
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
> what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions 
> are greatly appreciated!
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List New Subject. Winch replacement for a C 38MKII

[Rjcasciato via CnC-List]

Hoping there is some help and advice out there among the group.

 

I'm going to replace my primary winches on Impromptu over the winter.
Currently, I have a pair of Barient 38ST's.  While I think it would be nice
to try a 3 speed...I'm sure that price is prohibitive.

 

So given the size of the current winches.who has had some good
experience with other manufacturers and keeping value in mind, any
recommendations.

 

The boat is used primarily for PHRF racing...but like most of , the crew is
aging gracefully.and I'd like to keep it that way.

 

Thanks for your input and insight.

 

Ron C.

Impromptu

C 38MKIIC...'77

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

Dave,

not a specific solution to any of your problems, but if you are dealing with 
sanitation, Peggy Hall’s book (Get Rid of Boat Odors) is a very good read. It 
might be the best $25 you spend on your sanitation systems (A Kindle version is 
I think under $10).

Marek

From: Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
Sent: Monday, August 15, 2016 09:36
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Danny Haughey 
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

HI Dave,

Not for nuthin' but, if you can hear the the vent, it is restricted and won't 
be letting much air in unless there is a vacuum like the one created by the 
pump. Mine was the same way when I bought my boat so I added a second and 
enlarged the first using 1-1/8 SS thru hull fittings and hose. was not that big 
a job. also the waste hose could be a big source of smells from the system. I 
replaced all those as well. no oder at all on our boat!

The larger vents and thru hull also allow me to flush the system at pumpout 
with fresh water running into the system through the vent opening and get the 
tank nice and clean.

Danny




On 8/14/2016 7:45 PM, Syerdave--- via CnC-List wrote:

  Thanks Paul, you've got me thinking
  I know the vent works because the guy who did the last pump out commented 
that he liked the location because he could hear the vent. So, it is admitting 
some air, but day in day out, not a lot because it can't circulate. 
  Any reason you can think of not to create a vented deck fill? Big boats have 
big vents... Same thing, I would think.
  This may not solve the stench-permeated tank issue, but it would air the tank.

  Dave.



  From: Dreuge <dre...@gmail.com>
  To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Guidance required on Sewage hose type - LF38
  NOW Active holding tank vent
  Message-ID: <47519851-9d14-4693-b61f-cc574a8f1...@gmail.com>
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii


  Dave,

  From what all the experts say, using quality hose and having proper 
ventilation are main keys. A real eye opener for me was finding 
  a bug nest clogged air vent line, so at the very least check or replace your 
vent line. To be honest, I cannot make any claims that adding the
  active ventilation fixed any problems as the system was be newly installed so 
there was no problem to fix. But at such a small
  cost ~$25, it was a no brainer to install a system which constantly pumps 
fresh air into the holding tank. I thought briefly about getting a 
  12V air pump, but if I were to make any changes it would be to plumb the 
galley sink drain to the head inlet so that when I leave the boat for an 
extended period, 
  the head inlet could easily be flush with fresh water. This eliminate salt 
water organisms from the inlet line which die off in 
  the line and decay, without oxygen, anaerobically. 


  -
  Paul E.
  1981 C 38 Landfall 
  S/V Johanna Rose
  Carrabelle, FL

  http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

  On Aug 14, 2016, at 11:01 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

  Message: 1
  Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2016 08:32:27 -0400
  From: Dave Syer <syerd...@gmail.com>
  To: "dre...@gmail.com" <dre...@gmail.com>, C Stus List
  <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Guidance required on Sewage hose type - LF38
  NOW Active holding tank vent


  Paul ? great blog, lotsa detail. You have piqued my curiosity with your 
active holding tank vent project. I have a rather ?piquant? poly holding tank 
in my 33-2. I changed the in and out (but not the vent) hoses and still I get a 
stench, particularly when the adjoining lockers are opened. The tank itself was 
removed and repaired, and while out it could not be de-stinked by any means I 
attempted, bleach, etc. Maybe there?s a way to deal with that, dunno.
  Am considering replacing the tank, but would rather resolve the cause. (or do 
both, and make provision for better/active ventilation in the new tank)
  In your post below, you seem pretty pleased with the result, any other 
insights? Anything you would do differently?

  Dave


   

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Danny Haughey via CnC-List]

HI Dave,

Not for nuthin' but, if you can hear the the vent, it is restricted and 
won't be letting much air in unless there is a vacuum like the one 
created by the pump.  Mine was the same way when I bought my boat so I 
added a second and enlarged the first using 1-1/8 SS thru hull fittings 
and hose.  was not that big a job.  also the waste hose could be a big 
source of smells from the system.  I replaced all those as well.  no 
oder at all on our boat!


The larger vents and thru hull also allow me to flush the system at 
pumpout with fresh water running into the system through the vent 
opening and get the tank nice and clean.


Danny


On 8/14/2016 7:45 PM, Syerdave--- via CnC-List wrote:

Thanks Paul, you've  got me thinking
I know the vent works because the guy who did the last pump out 
commented that he liked the location because he could hear the vent.   
So, it is admitting some air, but day in day out, not a lot because it 
can't circulate.
Any reason you can think of not to create a vented deck fill?  Big 
boats have big vents...  Same thing, I would  think.
This may not solve the stench-permeated tank issue, but it would air 
the tank.


Dave.


From: Dreuge <dre...@gmail.com <mailto:dre...@gmail.com>>
To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Guidance required on Sewage hose type - LF38
   NOWActive holding tank vent
Message-ID: <47519851-9d14-4693-b61f-cc574a8f1...@gmail.com 
<mailto:47519851-9d14-4693-b61f-cc574a8f1...@gmail.com>>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii


Dave,

From what all the experts say, using quality hose and having proper 
ventilation are main keys.   A real eye opener for me was finding
a bug nest clogged air vent line, so at the very least check or 
replace your vent line.   To be honest, I cannot make any claims that 
adding the
active ventilation fixed any problems as the system was be newly 
installed so there was no problem to fix.  But at such a small
cost ~$25, it was a no brainer to install a system which constantly 
 pumps fresh air into the holding tank.   I thought briefly about 
getting a
12V air pump, but  if I were to make any changes it would be to plumb 
the galley sink drain to the head inlet so that when I leave the boat 
for an extended period,
the head inlet could easily be flush with fresh water.   This 
eliminate salt water organisms from the inlet line which die off in

the line and decay, without oxygen, anaerobically.


-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Aug 14, 2016, at 11:01 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Message: 1
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2016 08:32:27 -0400
From: Dave Syer <syerd...@gmail.com <mailto:syerd...@gmail.com>>
To: "dre...@gmail.com <mailto:dre...@gmail.com>" <dre...@gmail.com 
<mailto:dre...@gmail.com>>,  C Stus List

   <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Guidance required on Sewage hose type - LF38
   NOW Active holding tank vent


Paul ? great blog, lotsa detail.   You have piqued my curiosity with 
your active holding tank vent project.   I have a rather ?piquant? 
poly holding tank in my 33-2.  I changed the in and out (but not the 
vent) hoses  and still I get a stench, particularly when the adjoining 
lockers are opened.   The tank itself was removed and repaired, and 
while out it could not be de-stinked by any means I attempted, bleach, 
etc.  Maybe there?s a way to deal with that, dunno.
Am considering replacing the tank, but would rather resolve the cause. 
(or do both, and make provision for better/active ventilation in the 
new tank)
In your post below, you seem pretty pleased with the result, any other 
insights?  Anything you would do differently?


Dave



___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List (no subject)

[Syerdave--- via CnC-List]

Thanks Paul, you've  got me thinking
I know the vent works because the guy who did the last pump out commented that 
he liked the location because he could hear the vent.   So, it is admitting 
some air, but day in day out, not a lot because it can't circulate.  
Any reason you can think of not to create a vented deck fill?  Big boats have 
big vents...  Same thing, I would  think.
This may not solve the stench-permeated tank issue, but it would air the tank.

Dave.


From: Dreuge <dre...@gmail.com>
To: CnClist <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Guidance required on Sewage hose type - LF38
   NOWActive holding tank vent
Message-ID: <47519851-9d14-4693-b61f-cc574a8f1...@gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii


Dave,

From what all the experts say, using quality hose and having proper ventilation 
are main keys.   A real eye opener for me was finding 
a bug nest clogged air vent line, so at the very least check or replace your 
vent line.   To be honest, I cannot make any claims that adding the
active ventilation fixed any problems as the system was be newly installed so 
there was no problem to fix.  But at such a small
cost ~$25, it was a no brainer to install a system which constantly  pumps 
fresh air into the holding tank.   I thought briefly about getting a 
12V air pump, but  if I were to make any changes it would be to plumb the 
galley sink drain to the head inlet so that when I leave the boat for an 
extended period, 
the head inlet could easily be flush with fresh water.   This eliminate salt 
water organisms from the inlet line which die off in 
the line and decay, without oxygen, anaerobically. 


-
Paul E.
1981 C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

On Aug 14, 2016, at 11:01 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:

Message: 1
Date: Sun, 14 Aug 2016 08:32:27 -0400
From: Dave Syer <syerd...@gmail.com>
To: "dre...@gmail.com" <dre...@gmail.com>,    C Stus List
   <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Guidance required on Sewage hose type - LF38
   NOW Active holding tank vent


Paul ? great blog, lotsa detail.   You have piqued my curiosity with your 
active holding tank vent project.   I have a rather ?piquant? poly holding tank 
in my 33-2.  I changed the in and out (but not the vent) hoses  and still I get 
a stench, particularly when the adjoining lockers are opened.   The tank itself 
was removed and repaired, and while out it could not be de-stinked by any means 
I attempted, bleach, etc.  Maybe there?s a way to deal with that, dunno.
Am considering replacing the tank, but would rather resolve the cause. (or do 
both, and make provision for better/active ventilation in the new tank)
In your post below, you seem pretty pleased with the result, any other 
insights?  Anything you would do differently?

Dave

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List (no subject)

[Dave via CnC-List]

A life in the connector biz tells me to look at military or heavy industry.  
Check out brad Harrison 2 or 3 pin mini series. 
Example 

http://www.bradharrisonsales.com/mc_2-6p_stoow_us.htm


If I had a deck stepped mast in salt water this is what I would use, and 
probably rather than a chassis mount connector On deck I would wire a female 
pigtail thru a cable gland fixed to the deck.  (On a boat like a C anyway - 
easier.  On a bluewater cruiser I would terminate inside an enclosure). Find a 
friend in the electrical field.  
My 33-2 has a keel stepped mast and I used a terminal block under the setee.  
The boat wiring has ring  terminals left attached to the block, and the mast 
wiring (mast removed spring and fall) has flanged fork terminals.  Easy to 
remove but won't fall off if the Terminal screw loosens.  

Dave



Message: 2
Date: Fri, 29 Jul 2016 17:36:50 -0300
From: Rick Taillieu <rtaill...@eastlink.ca>
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Two Prong DC outlet
Message-ID: <008001d1e9d8$ef457790$cdd066b0$@ca>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

Mark,

I have fought with the mast wiring problem on my 25 ever since I bought it
in 1999. I have three cables coming from the mast, VHF coax, mast lights and
wind instruments.
Because it is deck stepped there are only a few products that can be used
and none of the ones I tried worked for more than a couple years before the
contacts corroded beyond cleaning or the crew stepped on the connector while
racing.  I also got rid of the original C wiring leading into the deck and
sealed off that leak point into the core.
Finally a couple years ago I saw these
https://www.bluesea.com/products/1003/CableClam_1.40in and the problem was
solved.
In my future boat anything removable that needs to go through the deck will
have one of these.

Rick Tai
Sent from my iPhone___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Gary,
 I have a Flex-o-Fold also, and if I don't "lock" it, it will continue
to spin.  I use reverse.
Gary
S/V Kaylarah

~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 3:26 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I used to have a Martec. I always moved the shaft to the horizontal prop
> position to assure the blades both folded, or one could end up with a
> ‘hanging blade’ and you know how much that means!
>
>
>
> Now I have a Flex with gears – it folds in any position, and I doubt that
> it must be stopped, as the forward motion of the boat will push the blades
> backward, causing them to fold as long as the shaft is not being powered.
> I’m sure stopping it would help a lot. I have been leaving my Yanmar in
> forward for 22 years with no problems (knock on wood).
>
>
>
> Gary
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *ALAN
> BERGEN via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, June 8, 2016 2:49 PM
> *To:* cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> *Cc:* ALAN BERGEN <trya...@alumni.usc.edu>
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List (no subject)
>
>
>
> For a folding prop, you do have to stop the shaft in order for it to
> fold.  You also have to center it (blades in the horizontal position) for
> both of them to fold.  With feathering props, you shift into reverse, the
> shaft turns and the prop feathers.
>
> Alan Bergen
>
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 11:20 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Gary,
>
> I believe the list has addressed this before but I'll throw it out there
> again.
>
> A freewheeling prop has less resistance than a fixed one.  There are a few
> assumptions being make in that statement.
> *Fixed blade prop
> *No shaft driven generator/alternator.
>
> The navy does it regularly.  As a throttleman onboard an aircraft carrier
> with 4 shafts, I can tell you, a trailing shaft always required less
> compensation than a fixed shaft.  The only reason we ever stopped the shaft
> was to do maintenance/repairs on the main engine or because of a shaft seal
> failure.  The emergency shaft seal would be ruptured if the shaft was
> allowed to spin.
>
> As for our boats with featuring/folding props you have to stop the shaft
> in order to allow the prop to feather/fold.  As others have mentioned you
> may have to shift into reverse to feather the prop.  Staying in reverse
> ensures that the prop doesn't "re-feather" and start spinning again.
> Pretty unlikely.  I occasionally forget to shift into neutral when
> starting... Oops!
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Jun 8, 2016 9:48 AM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Aside from drag, I don't see what harm having it is neutral could do to
> the mechanical systems.  That said, if I recall correctly, the MarTec prop
> folks suggest putting it in reverse temporarily to rotate the prop blades
> into a neutral position...but that could just be something I imagined.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
> > On Jun 8, 2016, at 9:06 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> >
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2016 09:05:42 -0400
> > From: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
> > To: CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission in forward or reverse while
> >sailing?
> > Message-ID: <cc3239bb-3ac8-46c7-9c72-c0a940bd3...@gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > Mine recommends reverse but also says the transmission will be damaged
> if left in forward.  Not sure why.  Dave
> >
> >> On Jun 8, 2016, at 7:16 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> The answer may depend on what make of transmission you have, but my
> Hurth transmission recommends reverse.  If your prop is spinning in
> forward, I would suggest that is not good.  I would recommend reverse.
> Some transmission, I'm told, have the oil pump on the input shaft, so there
> is no lubrication when the engine is stopped.  That's one reason you want
> to make sure the prop is not free-wheeling.  The other reason, of course,
> is drag.
> >>
> >> Gary
> >> S/V Kaylarah
> >> '90 C 37+
> >> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> >>
> >>
> >> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of ou

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Thank you Josh.  That makes sense.
Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 2:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gary,
>
> I believe the list has addressed this before but I'll throw it out there
> again.
>
> A freewheeling prop has less resistance than a fixed one.  There are a few
> assumptions being make in that statement.
> *Fixed blade prop
> *No shaft driven generator/alternator.
>
> The navy does it regularly.  As a throttleman onboard an aircraft carrier
> with 4 shafts, I can tell you, a trailing shaft always required less
> compensation than a fixed shaft.  The only reason we ever stopped the shaft
> was to do maintenance/repairs on the main engine or because of a shaft seal
> failure.  The emergency shaft seal would be ruptured if the shaft was
> allowed to spin.
>
> As for our boats with featuring/folding props you have to stop the shaft
> in order to allow the prop to feather/fold.  As others have mentioned you
> may have to shift into reverse to feather the prop.  Staying in reverse
> ensures that the prop doesn't "re-feather" and start spinning again.
> Pretty unlikely.  I occasionally forget to shift into neutral when
> starting... Oops!
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Jun 8, 2016 9:48 AM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Aside from drag, I don't see what harm having it is neutral could do to
>> the mechanical systems.  That said, if I recall correctly, the MarTec prop
>> folks suggest putting it in reverse temporarily to rotate the prop blades
>> into a neutral position...but that could just be something I imagined.
>>
>> Tom Buscaglia
>> S/V Alera
>> 1990 C 37+/40
>> Vashon WA
>> P 206.463.9200
>>
>>
>> > On Jun 8, 2016, at 9:06 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> >
>> > Message: 6
>> > Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2016 09:05:42 -0400
>> > From: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
>> > To: CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission in forward or reverse while
>> >sailing?
>> > Message-ID: <cc3239bb-3ac8-46c7-9c72-c0a940bd3...@gmail.com>
>> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> >
>> > Mine recommends reverse but also says the transmission will be damaged
>> if left in forward.  Not sure why.  Dave
>> >
>> >> On Jun 8, 2016, at 7:16 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> The answer may depend on what make of transmission you have, but my
>> Hurth transmission recommends reverse.  If your prop is spinning in
>> forward, I would suggest that is not good.  I would recommend reverse.
>> Some transmission, I'm told, have the oil pump on the input shaft, so there
>> is no lubrication when the engine is stopped.  That's one reason you want
>> to make sure the prop is not free-wheeling.  The other reason, of course,
>> is drag.
>> >>
>> >> Gary
>> >> S/V Kaylarah
>> >> '90 C 37+
>> >> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Tom,

I put mine in reverse to stop the prop, then position the shaft so the
blades are folded.  Then I put it back into reverse to lock them in place.
It's easy, especially if you mark the shaft position when the boat is out of
the water.

Jake


Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III "Midnight Mistress"
Hampton VA


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Buscaglia via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 8, 2016 09:47
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Tom Buscaglia <t...@sv-alera.com>
Subject: Stus-List (no subject)

Aside from drag, I don't see what harm having it is neutral could do to the
mechanical systems.  That said, if I recall correctly, the MarTec prop folks
suggest putting it in reverse temporarily to rotate the prop blades into a
neutral position...but that could just be something I imagined.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Gary Nylander via CnC-List]

I used to have a Martec. I always moved the shaft to the horizontal prop 
position to assure the blades both folded, or one could end up with a ‘hanging 
blade’ and you know how much that means!

 

Now I have a Flex with gears – it folds in any position, and I doubt that it 
must be stopped, as the forward motion of the boat will push the blades 
backward, causing them to fold as long as the shaft is not being powered. I’m 
sure stopping it would help a lot. I have been leaving my Yanmar in forward for 
22 years with no problems (knock on wood).

 

Gary

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of ALAN BERGEN 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, June 8, 2016 2:49 PM
To: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Cc: ALAN BERGEN <trya...@alumni.usc.edu>
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

 

For a folding prop, you do have to stop the shaft in order for it to fold.  You 
also have to center it (blades in the horizontal position) for both of them to 
fold.  With feathering props, you shift into reverse, the shaft turns and the 
prop feathers.

Alan Bergen

 

On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 11:20 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
<cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Gary,

I believe the list has addressed this before but I'll throw it out there again. 
 

A freewheeling prop has less resistance than a fixed one.  There are a few 
assumptions being make in that statement.  
*Fixed blade prop
*No shaft driven generator/alternator.

The navy does it regularly.  As a throttleman onboard an aircraft carrier with 
4 shafts, I can tell you, a trailing shaft always required less compensation 
than a fixed shaft.  The only reason we ever stopped the shaft was to do 
maintenance/repairs on the main engine or because of a shaft seal failure.  The 
emergency shaft seal would be ruptured if the shaft was allowed to spin.

As for our boats with featuring/folding props you have to stop the shaft in 
order to allow the prop to feather/fold.  As others have mentioned you may have 
to shift into reverse to feather the prop.  Staying in reverse ensures that the 
prop doesn't "re-feather" and start spinning again.  Pretty unlikely.  I 
occasionally forget to shift into neutral when starting... Oops!

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Jun 8, 2016 9:48 AM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

Aside from drag, I don't see what harm having it is neutral could do to the 
mechanical systems.  That said, if I recall correctly, the MarTec prop folks 
suggest putting it in reverse temporarily to rotate the prop blades into a 
neutral position...but that could just be something I imagined.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200  


> On Jun 8, 2016, at 9:06 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com>  wrote:
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2016 09:05:42 -0400
> From: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com <mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com> >
> To: CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> >
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission in forward or reverse while
>sailing?
> Message-ID: <cc3239bb-3ac8-46c7-9c72-c0a940bd3...@gmail.com 
> <mailto:cc3239bb-3ac8-46c7-9c72-c0a940bd3...@gmail.com> >
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Mine recommends reverse but also says the transmission will be damaged if 
> left in forward.  Not sure why.  Dave
>
>> On Jun 8, 2016, at 7:16 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:
>>
>>
>> The answer may depend on what make of transmission you have, but my Hurth 
>> transmission recommends reverse.  If your prop is spinning in forward, I 
>> would suggest that is not good.  I would recommend reverse.  Some 
>> transmission, I'm told, have the oil pump on the input shaft, so there is no 
>> lubrication when the engine is stopped.  That's one reason you want to make 
>> sure the prop is not free-wheeling.  The other reason, of course, is drag.
>>
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah
>> '90 C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!


___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

 

___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List]

For a folding prop, you do have to stop the shaft in order for it to fold.
You also have to center it (blades in the horizontal position) for both of
them to fold.  With feathering props, you shift into reverse, the shaft
turns and the prop feathers.

Alan Bergen

On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 11:20 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gary,
>
> I believe the list has addressed this before but I'll throw it out there
> again.
>
> A freewheeling prop has less resistance than a fixed one.  There are a few
> assumptions being make in that statement.
> *Fixed blade prop
> *No shaft driven generator/alternator.
>
> The navy does it regularly.  As a throttleman onboard an aircraft carrier
> with 4 shafts, I can tell you, a trailing shaft always required less
> compensation than a fixed shaft.  The only reason we ever stopped the shaft
> was to do maintenance/repairs on the main engine or because of a shaft seal
> failure.  The emergency shaft seal would be ruptured if the shaft was
> allowed to spin.
>
> As for our boats with featuring/folding props you have to stop the shaft
> in order to allow the prop to feather/fold.  As others have mentioned you
> may have to shift into reverse to feather the prop.  Staying in reverse
> ensures that the prop doesn't "re-feather" and start spinning again.
> Pretty unlikely.  I occasionally forget to shift into neutral when
> starting... Oops!
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Jun 8, 2016 9:48 AM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Aside from drag, I don't see what harm having it is neutral could do to
>> the mechanical systems.  That said, if I recall correctly, the MarTec prop
>> folks suggest putting it in reverse temporarily to rotate the prop blades
>> into a neutral position...but that could just be something I imagined.
>>
>> Tom Buscaglia
>> S/V Alera
>> 1990 C 37+/40
>> Vashon WA
>> P 206.463.9200
>>
>>
>> > On Jun 8, 2016, at 9:06 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>> >
>> > Message: 6
>> > Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2016 09:05:42 -0400
>> > From: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
>> > To: CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
>> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission in forward or reverse while
>> >sailing?
>> > Message-ID: <cc3239bb-3ac8-46c7-9c72-c0a940bd3...@gmail.com>
>> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>> >
>> > Mine recommends reverse but also says the transmission will be damaged
>> if left in forward.  Not sure why.  Dave
>> >
>> >> On Jun 8, 2016, at 7:16 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> The answer may depend on what make of transmission you have, but my
>> Hurth transmission recommends reverse.  If your prop is spinning in
>> forward, I would suggest that is not good.  I would recommend reverse.
>> Some transmission, I'm told, have the oil pump on the input shaft, so there
>> is no lubrication when the engine is stopped.  That's one reason you want
>> to make sure the prop is not free-wheeling.  The other reason, of course,
>> is drag.
>> >>
>> >> Gary
>> >> S/V Kaylarah
>> >> '90 C 37+
>> >> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
>> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Gary,

I believe the list has addressed this before but I'll throw it out there
again.

A freewheeling prop has less resistance than a fixed one.  There are a few
assumptions being make in that statement.
*Fixed blade prop
*No shaft driven generator/alternator.

The navy does it regularly.  As a throttleman onboard an aircraft carrier
with 4 shafts, I can tell you, a trailing shaft always required less
compensation than a fixed shaft.  The only reason we ever stopped the shaft
was to do maintenance/repairs on the main engine or because of a shaft seal
failure.  The emergency shaft seal would be ruptured if the shaft was
allowed to spin.

As for our boats with featuring/folding props you have to stop the shaft in
order to allow the prop to feather/fold.  As others have mentioned you may
have to shift into reverse to feather the prop.  Staying in reverse ensures
that the prop doesn't "re-feather" and start spinning again.  Pretty
unlikely.  I occasionally forget to shift into neutral when starting...
Oops!

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 8, 2016 9:48 AM, "Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Aside from drag, I don't see what harm having it is neutral could do to
> the mechanical systems.  That said, if I recall correctly, the MarTec prop
> folks suggest putting it in reverse temporarily to rotate the prop blades
> into a neutral position...but that could just be something I imagined.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
> > On Jun 8, 2016, at 9:06 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> >
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2016 09:05:42 -0400
> > From: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
> > To: CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission in forward or reverse while
> >sailing?
> > Message-ID: <cc3239bb-3ac8-46c7-9c72-c0a940bd3...@gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > Mine recommends reverse but also says the transmission will be damaged
> if left in forward.  Not sure why.  Dave
> >
> >> On Jun 8, 2016, at 7:16 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> The answer may depend on what make of transmission you have, but my
> Hurth transmission recommends reverse.  If your prop is spinning in
> forward, I would suggest that is not good.  I would recommend reverse.
> Some transmission, I'm told, have the oil pump on the input shaft, so there
> is no lubrication when the engine is stopped.  That's one reason you want
> to make sure the prop is not free-wheeling.  The other reason, of course,
> is drag.
> >>
> >> Gary
> >> S/V Kaylarah
> >> '90 C 37+
> >> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> >>
> >>
> >> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Kanzaki recommends neutral for a fixed prop, neutral or reverse for a
fixed/folding prop.  If you have a folding/feathering prop, shifting into
reverse for a few seconds causes the prop to fold or feather.

Joel

On Wed, Jun 8, 2016 at 9:47 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Aside from drag, I don't see what harm having it is neutral could do to
> the mechanical systems.  That said, if I recall correctly, the MarTec prop
> folks suggest putting it in reverse temporarily to rotate the prop blades
> into a neutral position...but that could just be something I imagined.
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
> > On Jun 8, 2016, at 9:06 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> >
> > Message: 6
> > Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2016 09:05:42 -0400
> > From: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
> > To: CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission in forward or reverse while
> >sailing?
> > Message-ID: <cc3239bb-3ac8-46c7-9c72-c0a940bd3...@gmail.com>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> >
> > Mine recommends reverse but also says the transmission will be damaged
> if left in forward.  Not sure why.  Dave
> >
> >> On Jun 8, 2016, at 7:16 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >> The answer may depend on what make of transmission you have, but my
> Hurth transmission recommends reverse.  If your prop is spinning in
> forward, I would suggest that is not good.  I would recommend reverse.
> Some transmission, I'm told, have the oil pump on the input shaft, so there
> is no lubrication when the engine is stopped.  That's one reason you want
> to make sure the prop is not free-wheeling.  The other reason, of course,
> is drag.
> >>
> >> Gary
> >> S/V Kaylarah
> >> '90 C 37+
> >> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> >>
> >>
> >> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List (no subject)

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

Aside from drag, I don't see what harm having it is neutral could do to the 
mechanical systems.  That said, if I recall correctly, the MarTec prop folks 
suggest putting it in reverse temporarily to rotate the prop blades into a 
neutral position...but that could just be something I imagined.

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


> On Jun 8, 2016, at 9:06 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2016 09:05:42 -0400
> From: David Knecht <davidakne...@gmail.com>
> To: CnC CnC discussion list <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Transmission in forward or reverse while
>sailing?
> Message-ID: <cc3239bb-3ac8-46c7-9c72-c0a940bd3...@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Mine recommends reverse but also says the transmission will be damaged if 
> left in forward.  Not sure why.  Dave
> 
>> On Jun 8, 2016, at 7:16 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>> <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> The answer may depend on what make of transmission you have, but my Hurth 
>> transmission recommends reverse.  If your prop is spinning in forward, I 
>> would suggest that is not good.  I would recommend reverse.  Some 
>> transmission, I'm told, have the oil pump on the input shaft, so there is no 
>> lubrication when the engine is stopped.  That's one reason you want to make 
>> sure the prop is not free-wheeling.  The other reason, of course, is drag.
>> 
>> Gary
>> S/V Kaylarah
>> '90 C 37+
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> 
>> 
>> ~~~_/)~~


___

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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Stus-List (no subject)

[Dave via CnC-List]

Mine has shims in the mast step to adjust the height.  As another posted, a 
fully tensioned rig  may make it Impossible to align the holes.  


Subject: Stus-List mast collar tangs C& C 33-2


When I was rigging my new to me 33-2 we couldn't locate one of the the mast 
collar tangs so I had a friend fabricate a duplicate. Both are now misaligned 
and the holes are about 1/4 inch too high to slip the bolt in (the boat is 
fully rigged). My friends have different opinions on this.  One says release 
the rigging and the tangs will slightly deform the cabin top when we reset the 
mast. Another days remake the tangs so the bolts line up with jokes in the mast 
when it's fully rigged. Looking for help from you folks.





Cheers,

Doug

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
<https://overview.mail.yahoo.com/mobile/?.src=Android> 

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Scott Wells via CnC-List]

Will do thanks!

On Saturday, May 7, 2016, Joel Aronson <joel.aron...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Scott
>
> Go to YouTube and search C 35rigging. The first video shows the setup of
> The Office.
>
> Joel
>
> On Friday, May 6, 2016, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com');>> wrote:
>
>> Scott,
>>
>>
>>
>> I have 15 years of experience with the 35-3 and my boat is in Hampton
>> VA.  I have done many modifications and upgrades.  I would be glad to share
>> pictures and experiences.
>>
>>
>>
>> Joel, although not a C owner for much longer, has plenty of advice and
>> experience to.  There are a couple of other 35-3’s on the bay too.
>>
>>
>>
>> When you have a question, give the list a shout and I’m sure you’ll get
>> some opinions, comments, snide remarks, and maybe some good advice!  We’re
>> a happy clan of C owners.
>>
>>
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>>
>>
>> Jake
>>
>>
>>
>> *Jake Brodersen*
>>
>> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>>
>> *Hampton VA*
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Scott
>> Wells via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Friday, May 6, 2016 17:28
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Cc:* Scott Wells <captainsc...@sundancemarine.net>
>> *Subject:* Stus-List (no subject)
>>
>>
>>
>> Bought a 1986 35-3 keeping it on the Upper  Cheaapeake Bay. It is a
>> salvage project so I am looking for other 35-3 owners on the bay to
>> communicate with. More so I would like to visit a boat to look through, ask
>> questions because In the shape I bought her I  not sure how and what is
>> typical and what has been altered. It used to be a St Mary's College race
>> boat.
>>
>> --
>> Captain Scott Wells
>> Sundance Marine Services LLC
>> 443 877 5830
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
>


-- 
Captain Scott Wells
Sundance Marine Services LLC
443 877 5830
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Scott

Go to YouTube and search C 35rigging. The first video shows the setup of
The Office.

Joel

On Friday, May 6, 2016, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:

> Scott,
>
>
>
> I have 15 years of experience with the 35-3 and my boat is in Hampton VA.
> I have done many modifications and upgrades.  I would be glad to share
> pictures and experiences.
>
>
>
> Joel, although not a C owner for much longer, has plenty of advice and
> experience to.  There are a couple of other 35-3’s on the bay too.
>
>
>
> When you have a question, give the list a shout and I’m sure you’ll get
> some opinions, comments, snide remarks, and maybe some good advice!  We’re
> a happy clan of C owners.
>
>
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com');>] *On
> Behalf Of *Scott Wells via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Friday, May 6, 2016 17:28
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cnc-list@cnc-list.com');>
> *Cc:* Scott Wells <captainsc...@sundancemarine.net
> <javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','captainsc...@sundancemarine.net');>>
> *Subject:* Stus-List (no subject)
>
>
>
> Bought a 1986 35-3 keeping it on the Upper  Cheaapeake Bay. It is a
> salvage project so I am looking for other 35-3 owners on the bay to
> communicate with. More so I would like to visit a boat to look through, ask
> questions because In the shape I bought her I  not sure how and what is
> typical and what has been altered. It used to be a St Mary's College race
> boat.
>
> --
> Captain Scott Wells
> Sundance Marine Services LLC
> 443 877 5830
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Scott,

 

I have 15 years of experience with the 35-3 and my boat is in Hampton VA.  I 
have done many modifications and upgrades.  I would be glad to share pictures 
and experiences.

 

Joel, although not a C owner for much longer, has plenty of advice and 
experience to.  There are a couple of other 35-3’s on the bay too.  

 

When you have a question, give the list a shout and I’m sure you’ll get some 
opinions, comments, snide remarks, and maybe some good advice!  We’re a happy 
clan of C owners.

 

Cheers,

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Scott Wells 
via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 6, 2016 17:28
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Scott Wells <captainsc...@sundancemarine.net>
Subject: Stus-List (no subject)

 

Bought a 1986 35-3 keeping it on the Upper  Cheaapeake Bay. It is a salvage 
project so I am looking for other 35-3 owners on the bay to communicate with. 
More so I would like to visit a boat to look through, ask questions because In 
the shape I bought her I  not sure how and what is typical and what has been 
altered. It used to be a St Mary's College race boat. 

-- 
Captain Scott Wells
Sundance Marine Services LLC
443 877 5830

___

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Stus-List (no subject)

[Scott Wells via CnC-List]

Bought a 1986 35-3 keeping it on the Upper  Cheaapeake Bay. It is a salvage
project so I am looking for other 35-3 owners on the bay to communicate
with. More so I would like to visit a boat to look through, ask questions
because In the shape I bought her I  not sure how and what is typical and
what has been altered. It used to be a St Mary's College race boat.

-- 
Captain Scott Wells
Sundance Marine Services LLC
443 877 5830
___

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Lorne,

I had this problem on my 35 too.

In the morning I found that the Seal was gone (Black Seal, used too 
much of it in the Dark n Stormies).


:)

Cheers, Russ
 Sweet 35 mk-1


At 04:42 PM 26/04/2016, you wrote:


Tr
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Stus-List (no subject)

[Lorne Serpa via CnC-List]

Tr
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Francois, 

How did you make the holes in the pedestal and the SS guard? Did you use a 
fitting to make it watertight? Got any pictures? 

Chuck 

- Original Message -

From: "Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> 
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Jean-Francois J Rivard" <jfriv...@us.ibm.com> 
Sent: Friday, April 8, 2016 10:23:26 PM 
Subject: Stus-List (no subject) 



Hi, I ran mine in the pedestal itself. 



You can run it unobtrusively from the pedestal into the guard near the compass 
binnacle. Then you can run that to the pod. 



-Francois Rivard 
1990 34+ "Take Five" 
Lake Lanier, Ga 



Sent from my iPad 



> On Apr 8, 2016, at 1:35 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote: 
> 
> Stus-List 37+ and XL (and probably 34's too) Pedestal Guard 
> Wiring 


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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List]

>From PO I have some through binnacle and GPS zip tied to outside tubing and
through small waterproof deck fitting. At first I just thought it was lazy
to go to deck fitting, but it is much more serviceable and accessible fwiw.

Kevin
89 30-2 Osprey

On Fri, Apr 8, 2016, 7:24 PM Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi, I ran mine in the pedestal itself.
>
> You can run it unobtrusively from the pedestal into the guard near the
> compass binnacle. Then you can run that to the pod.
>
> -Francois Rivard
> 1990 34+ "Take Five"
> Lake Lanier, Ga
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> > On Apr 8, 2016, at 1:35 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> >
> > Stus-List 37+ and XL (and probably 34's too) Pedestal Guard
> > Wiring
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> like what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
> Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
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Stus-List (no subject)

[Jean-Francois J Rivard via CnC-List]

Hi, I ran mine in the pedestal itself.

You can run it unobtrusively from the pedestal into the guard near the
compass binnacle. Then you can run that to the pod.

-Francois Rivard
1990 34+ "Take Five"
Lake Lanier, Ga

Sent from my iPad

> On Apr 8, 2016, at 1:35 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
>
> Stus-List 37+ and XL (and probably 34's too) Pedestal Guard
>Wiring
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Doug Welch via CnC-List]

The current complement is 2 X G27 and 1 X G22NF (smaller than G24). It seems 
like there should be room replace the 22NF with a 24 but we'll see. I will take 
and post a photo next time I'm on the boat.
Cheers,Doug 

On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 5:20 PM, Dave via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 

 
Hi Doug - went through this think myself, I had the std 33-2 setup of 2 group 
31 (I think...  Could be 34). Deep cycle flooded batteries (batt 1 and 2) and 
an added xantrex smart charger.  Got some advice from a backup power 
designer
Will parallel the existing batteries and add a u1 start battery, switched with 
a blue seas selector/ combiner, (in a panel with 24/7 breakers and no more 
kick-off toggle) an vsr, all monitored by Victron energy bmv-70, which fits the 
stock 2" hole.  Decided against a smart regulator as offering little benefit.  
Fitting that 3rd battery is a trick, would live to know how it was fine in 
yours.
Dave
The stock alternator is fine 




n Sunday, February 28, 2016 9:41 AM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List 
 wrote:




 We have two T12 136ah  ( slightly larger and heavier than a group 27 ) Rolls 
house batteries which are now in their 12th year of service.  I was thinking 
they were near their end of life but a battery equalization last year seems to 
have given them a new lease on life. We replaced a Rolls starting battery after 
11 years. 
 Ed
 1982 LF38
 On Feb 27, 2016 1:20 PM, "Doug Welch via CnC-List"  
wrote:

   Our new (to us) 33-2 has a couple of Surette Group 27 Deep Cycle Batteries 
of indeterminate age in plastic battery boxes with no lid and a Canadian Tire 
22NF starting Battery (In what looks like a home made wooden battery box). 

   My first instinct is to replace the deep cycles with Interstates and upgrade 
the 22NF to a Group 25 Marine Starter Battery in proper battery boxes (I have 
seen first hand how quickly a dropped wrench landing on exposed 12v battery 
terminals can go very bad).

   The charger is a relatively new looking Professional Mariner ProSport 20 
Heavy-Duty Marine Battery Charger. Both banks are monitored by a cruising 
equipment company e-meter.

   My questions are 
   1. Does anyone have 2 G27s and a G25? Is there room?
   2. Someone told me the Surette are very good batteries with longer than 
average life and I shouldn't be in a hurry to replace them. Experience ? 
Thoughts?
   3. Anything else from your experience I should be thinking about?

   Cheers,
   Doug 

Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List (no subject)

[Dave via CnC-List]

Hi Doug - went through this think myself, I had the std 33-2 setup of 2 group 
31 (I think...  Could be 34). Deep cycle flooded batteries (batt 1 and 2) and 
an added xantrex smart charger.  
Got some advice from a backup power designer

Will parallel the existing batteries and add a u1 start battery, switched with 
a blue seas selector/ combiner, (in a panel with 24/7 breakers and no more 
kick-off toggle) an vsr, all monitored by Victron energy bmv-70, which fits the 
stock 2" hole.  Decided against a smart regulator as offering little benefit.  
Fitting that 3rd battery is a trick, would live to know how it was fine in 
yours.

Dave

The stock alternator is fine 





n Sunday, February 28, 2016 9:41 AM, ed vanderkruk via CnC-List 
 wrote:




 We have two T12 136ah  ( slightly larger and heavier than a group 27 ) Rolls 
house batteries which are now in their 12th year of service.  I was thinking 
they were near their end of life but a battery equalization last year seems to 
have given them a new lease on life. We replaced a Rolls starting battery after 
11 years. 
 Ed
 1982 LF38
 On Feb 27, 2016 1:20 PM, "Doug Welch via CnC-List"  
wrote:

   Our new (to us) 33-2 has a couple of Surette Group 27 Deep Cycle Batteries 
of indeterminate age in plastic battery boxes with no lid and a Canadian Tire 
22NF starting Battery (In what looks like a home made wooden battery box). 

   My first instinct is to replace the deep cycles with Interstates and upgrade 
the 22NF to a Group 25 Marine Starter Battery in proper battery boxes (I have 
seen first hand how quickly a dropped wrench landing on exposed 12v battery 
terminals can go very bad).

   The charger is a relatively new looking Professional Mariner ProSport 20 
Heavy-Duty Marine Battery Charger. Both banks are monitored by a cruising 
equipment company e-meter.

   My questions are 
   1. Does anyone have 2 G27s and a G25? Is there room?
   2. Someone told me the Surette are very good batteries with longer than 
average life and I shouldn't be in a hurry to replace them. Experience ? 
Thoughts?
   3. Anything else from your experience I should be thinking about?

   Cheers,
   Doug 

Sent from my iPhone___

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Rick Rohwer via CnC-List]

Chuck
For my two bits, Sterling Hayden wrote some damn fine books.  They lit me up!

Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA (damn it’s cold)

> On Dec 31, 2015, at 12:58 PM, Dave via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 
> Whynott - a new one for the list- thanks.   wanderer is great, re read many 
> times.  Sterling Hayden was an intriguing guy, lived through interesting 
> times.  Voyage is very good too.  
> Dave
> 
> 
> Message: 12
> Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2015 14:59:18 -0500
> From: "Chuck Gilchrest" <csgilchr...@comcast.net 
> <mailto:csgilchr...@comcast.net>>
> To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...
> Message-ID: <002101d14405$bc3db160$34b91420$@comcast.net 
> <mailto:002101d14405$bc3db160$34b91420$@comcast.net>>
> Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"
> 
> All,
> One of my favorite reads that involves sailing and boat building is Douglass
> Whynott's "A Unit of Water, A Unit of Time", which is a non-fiction account
> of the last boat built by Joel White at Brooklin Boatyard in Maine (the son
> of writer EB White as well as being a prolific naval architect).  The book
> is a quiet book, best enjoyed in front of a fireplace with a few Benjamin
> Mendlowitz calendars and coffee table books available for reference photos
> of the various boats mentioned in the text.  
> Chuck Gilchrest
> Half Magic
> 1975 25 mk 1
> S/V Orion
> 1983 35 Landfall 
> Padanaram, MA 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Martin
> DeYoung via CnC-List
> Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 2:29 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Martin DeYoung <mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com <mailto:mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...
> 
> Andrew,
> 
> If you enjoy Sterling Hayden's Wanderer, look for a copy of his novel
> "Voyage". IIRC it is set in 1900 and begins on a dark and stormy night in
> Boston harbor.  In short it is a story of a clipper ship hauling coal around
> the horn to San Francisco.
> 
> For years I carried paperback copies of Wanderer or Voyage to read on
> offshore passages and never got tired of re-reading them.
> 
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C 43
> Seattle
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Andrew
> Burton via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 7:32 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Andrew Burton
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...
> 
> Rereading Wanderer, by Sterling Hayden. Great great book!
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 61 W Narragansett 
> Newport, RI 
> USA    02840 
> 
> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ 
> <http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/>
> +401 965-5260 <tel:+401%20965-5260>
> 
>> On Dec 30, 2015, at 17:37, Dave via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>> <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> wrote:
>> 
>> Just finished 'Moxie' by Phil weld - great book, impressive man.
>> In the same vein, about t re-read 'around the world alone' by Alain Colas.
> 
> 
> ___
> Sent from my iPhone
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[jtsails via CnC-List]

Currently reading Dewey Lambdin. Not the easiest to read but his books are 
rapidly climbing to the top of favorites list. I also enjoy anything written by 
James L. Nelson. And there are always the traditional picks of C. S. Forester, 
Alexander Kent, and Patrick O’Brian. For a change of pace, I like Randy Wayne 
White’s “ Doc Ford” series and for a light quick read I go to original Clive 
Cussler books. Oh, and I shouldn’t leave out the Dudley Pope “Ramage” series!
James Taylor
“Delaney”
C 38 Mk11
Oriental, NC

From: Rick Rohwer via CnC-List 
Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2016 10:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: Rick Rohwer 
Subject: Re: Stus-List (no subject)

Chuck 
For my two bits, Sterling Hayden wrote some damn fine books.  They lit me up!

Rick
Paikea 37+
Poulsbo, WA (damn it’s cold)

  On Dec 31, 2015, at 12:58 PM, Dave via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

  Whynott - a new one for the list- thanks.   wanderer is great, re read many 
times.  Sterling Hayden was an intriguing guy, lived through interesting times. 
 Voyage is very good too.  
  Dave


  Message: 12
  Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2015 14:59:18 -0500
  From: "Chuck Gilchrest" <csgilchr...@comcast.net>
  To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...
  Message-ID: <002101d14405$bc3db160$34b91420$@comcast.net>
  Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"

  All,
  One of my favorite reads that involves sailing and boat building is Douglass
  Whynott's "A Unit of Water, A Unit of Time", which is a non-fiction account
  of the last boat built by Joel White at Brooklin Boatyard in Maine (the son
  of writer EB White as well as being a prolific naval architect).  The book
  is a quiet book, best enjoyed in front of a fireplace with a few Benjamin
  Mendlowitz calendars and coffee table books available for reference photos
  of the various boats mentioned in the text.  
  Chuck Gilchrest
  Half Magic
  1975 25 mk 1
  S/V Orion
  1983 35 Landfall
  Padanaram, MA

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin
  DeYoung via CnC-List
  Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 2:29 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Martin DeYoung <mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com>
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...

  Andrew,

  If you enjoy Sterling Hayden's Wanderer, look for a copy of his novel
  "Voyage". IIRC it is set in 1900 and begins on a dark and stormy night in
  Boston harbor.  In short it is a story of a clipper ship hauling coal around
  the horn to San Francisco.

  For years I carried paperback copies of Wanderer or Voyage to read on
  offshore passages and never got tired of re-reading them.

  Martin DeYoung
  Calypso
  1971 C 43
  Seattle

  -Original Message-
  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
  Burton via CnC-List
  Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 7:32 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Cc: Andrew Burton
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...

  Rereading Wanderer, by Sterling Hayden. Great great book!

  Andrew Burton
  61 W Narragansett
  Newport, RI
  USA02840

  http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
  +401 965-5260


On Dec 30, 2015, at 17:37, Dave via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
  wrote:



Just finished 'Moxie' by Phil weld - great book, impressive man.

In the same vein, about t re-read 'around the world alone' by Alain Colas.


  ___
  Sent from my iPhone
  ___

  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
of page at:
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Stus-List (no subject)

[Dave via CnC-List]

Whynott - a new one for the list- thanks.   wanderer is great, re read many 
times.  Sterling Hayden was an intriguing guy, lived through interesting times. 
 Voyage is very good too.  
Dave


Message: 12
Date: Thu, 31 Dec 2015 14:59:18 -0500
From: "Chuck Gilchrest" <csgilchr...@comcast.net>
To: <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...
Message-ID: <002101d14405$bc3db160$34b91420$@comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"

All,
One of my favorite reads that involves sailing and boat building is Douglass
Whynott's "A Unit of Water, A Unit of Time", which is a non-fiction account
of the last boat built by Joel White at Brooklin Boatyard in Maine (the son
of writer EB White as well as being a prolific naval architect).  The book
is a quiet book, best enjoyed in front of a fireplace with a few Benjamin
Mendlowitz calendars and coffee table books available for reference photos
of the various boats mentioned in the text.  
Chuck Gilchrest
Half Magic
1975 25 mk 1
S/V Orion
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram, MA

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin
DeYoung via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2015 2:29 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Martin DeYoung <mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...

Andrew,

If you enjoy Sterling Hayden's Wanderer, look for a copy of his novel
"Voyage". IIRC it is set in 1900 and begins on a dark and stormy night in
Boston harbor.  In short it is a story of a clipper ship hauling coal around
the horn to San Francisco.

For years I carried paperback copies of Wanderer or Voyage to read on
offshore passages and never got tired of re-reading them.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C 43
Seattle

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 2015 7:32 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Andrew Burton
Subject: Re: Stus-List Winter sailing reads...

Rereading Wanderer, by Sterling Hayden. Great great book!

Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840

http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
+401 965-5260

> On Dec 30, 2015, at 17:37, Dave via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
wrote:
> 
> Just finished 'Moxie' by Phil weld - great book, impressive man.
> In the same vein, about t re-read 'around the world alone' by Alain Colas.


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Stus-List (no subject)

[Dave via CnC-List]

Pretty pleased with two blade folding gori on my 33-2.  


st [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Joe at
Zialater via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, December 21, 2015 11:58 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Joe at Zialater
Subject: Stus-List Folding prop for 30-1 with A4

My 1975 30-1,  Zia is up for a nice Christmas gift this year - a folding
prop.  

Any recommendations for a good folder that will still give me decent
performance in forward and reverse?  I don't know the current two blade prop
specs but she is being pushed by a smooth running Atomic 4.

Thanks for any input - and happy holidays!

Joe Boyle
Zia
An

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Re: Stus-List New Subject 84 35 Mk3

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Jon,

 

You’ve picked a good model.  There is a lot of experience on this list that you 
can draw from. A lot of us have been there before and have the scars to prove 
it.  Don’t be afraid to ask questions.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of JP Mail via 
CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2015 11:40
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: JP Mail <jon.peterpr...@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows - welcome

 

Me too. She's an '84 35mk3. Though not perfect, appears to be very well cared 
for and well outfitted. Has new port lights, recent rod rigging, fuel tank and 
rebuild of 3gm. Interesting thing about window refit is a ss frame around them. 
Haven't seen that in my research before. Things I need peace of mind with is 
hull integrity and hull/deck joint. There is also a bead of silicone along toe 
rail. This raises an eyebrow.  I know a 30 year old boat will have issues but 
there are issues I can deal with and others I don't have the time or energy to 
deal with.  I've done the soda blast and hull surface restore before and can do 
it again, but I don't want to face recoring. After a year search I'm settled on 
a C though. Hence joining the list.  I think the 35 mk 3 hits all the buttons 
for me. 
Jon.
Sent from my iPhone 

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Stus-List The subject line police are on the job!

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

You tell em!

Tom Buscaglia
S/V Alera 
1990 C 37+/40
Vashon WA
P 206.463.9200


> On Oct 30, 2015, at 6:33 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 01:04:22 + (UTC)
> From: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net>
> To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Danny Haughey <djhaug...@juno.com>, Ron Ricci <rvri...@gmail.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications
> Message-ID:
><796088000.5658329.1446167062569.javamail.zim...@comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Hi Danny, 
> 
> It's nice that so many C listers responded to your request to find a winter 
> haulout marina for your Tartan. 
> Can you please change the subject line to something other than "boom furling 
> complications" ? That's misleading. 
> 
> May I suggest: "Reconmmended marinas for haulout and winter storage in Mass 
> and RI area" ? 
> 
> 
> Chuck 
> Resolute 
> 1990 C 34R 
> Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md 

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Stus-List The subject line police are on the job!

[Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List]

True.  But once you change the subject line it starts a new topic string.  All 
of the prior discussion is gone from the string.  

Typoed from my iPhone

> On Oct 30, 2015, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 14:25:38 -0400
> From: Stevan Plavsa <stevanpla...@gmail.com>
> To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List The subject line police are on the job!
> Message-ID:
><caddevn6j7gk0dzbvmknn7nja0cxv93aznnxjm1tqugdxi8q...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I'm with Chuck. Information is only useful if people can find it. Good luck
> searching the archives for that discussion. Subject lines *are* important.
> 
> Steve
> Suhana, C 32
> Toronto

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Re: Stus-List The subject line police are on the job!

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

I'm with Chuck. Information is only useful if people can find it. Good luck
searching the archives for that discussion. Subject lines *are* important.

Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto


On Fri, Oct 30, 2015 at 10:17 AM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> You tell em!
>
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
>
>
> > On Oct 30, 2015, at 6:33 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> >
> > Date: Fri, 30 Oct 2015 01:04:22 + (UTC)
> > From: Chuck S <cscheaf...@comcast.net>
> > To: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" <cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> > Cc: Danny Haughey <djhaug...@juno.com>, Ron Ricci <rvri...@gmail.com>
> > Subject: Re: Stus-List Boom Furling complications
> > Message-ID:
> ><796088000.5658329.1446167062569.javamail.zim...@comcast.net>
> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> >
> > Hi Danny,
> >
> > It's nice that so many C listers responded to your request to find a
> winter haulout marina for your Tartan.
> > Can you please change the subject line to something other than "boom
> furling complications" ? That's misleading.
> >
> > May I suggest: "Reconmmended marinas for haulout and winter storage in
> Mass and RI area" ?
> >
> >
> > Chuck
> > Resolute
> > 1990 C 34R
> > Broad Creek, Magothy River, Md
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
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Stus-List (no subject)

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Neil,
  White Lake is great place and you will enjoy.  Plan an overnight in Pentwater 
during the summer and give me a shout.  
Glad to have you visit Pentwater Yacht Club.
Bill Walker
CnC 36
Pentwater, Mi


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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

As previously mentioned, check the mast step, most of them have sunk a bit. 
There is balsa coring in the hull in some forward panels, however, no issues 
with my boat. It's a great racer/cruiser, fast and fun to sail.

Mike Amirault
C 33II  "Lovely Cruise"
SMSC___

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Stus-List no subject

[Ken Rodmell via CnC-List]

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Stus-List (no subject)

[William Walker via CnC-List]

Chuck, 
  Going Garmin wired masthead, gmi 20 displays, linked to my Garmin 741 
chartplotter.  I may keep a couple displays which are good and move below and 
link in using the chartplotter as bridge.  
   I won't k ow what I am selling until install done, and may sell individually 
or package.  I will post here after installing in May. 
Email me at wwadjourned@Gmail com and I will give you first shot.  I have been 
looking for a analog wind display for two years and just gave up. 
Bill Walker





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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Curtis via CnC-List]

So I ha no Idea it would be so pricy. Here is what I was quoted. Is this a
DIY project? should I try to make my own?
Help$$$


*Solid Teak Handrails:*

   - *Qty (2) - 9-Loop*
  - *12 Centers*
  - *112 overall length*
  - *1 Thick*
  - *2-1/2 High*
  - *4 Pad Bases*
   - *Qty (2) - 6-Loop*
  - *12 Centers*
  - *76 overall length*
  - *1 Thick*
  - *2-1/2 High*
  - *4 Pad Bases*
   - *Furnished finish sanded, cleaned, and ready for application of finish
   coats by others.*

*Pricing:*



*(2) 9-Loop  (2) 6-Loop Solid Teak Handrails - - - - - - - - - - - -
$1,070.00*



*Packaging - - - - - - - - - - - - - -  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - - - - - $55.00*



*Packaging  Shipping via Motor Freight - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $
237.00*



*Total Project - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
- - - -$1,362.00*



*Note:*



*The above prices are valid for thirty (30) days from the date of this
proposal. *



*Delivery:*



*Typically 8 - 12 weeks, dependent upon prior commitments at date of order
entry.*



*Payment:*

On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 8:04 PM, Paul Fountain p...@seasource.ca wrote:

  Had new ones made for Perception by Mark Bruckmann, Bruckmann Yachts,
 his dad was one of the original 3 builders that formed CC  Ran the
 custom shop. They look great on the boat!

 Sent from my iPad

 On Feb 21, 2015, at 5:53 PM, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:

   I need to replace the 9 loop deck rails and 6 loop interior hand
 rails on my CC30 MK1. they where terrible in shape when i bought the
 boat 2012. I refinished them and rebedded, but they have served the old
 girl well. I have checked the web found a few sources, but I wonder if any
 owners have found the exact replacement ones? Let me know. Thanks for your
 time. Capt Curt.
 --

 *Best regards,*


 *Curtis McDaniel, *


 *CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady *

 Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
 didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
 from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
 Discover.  -Mark Twain
 http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



  *cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


 * __/) *

 .



 ___

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 bottom of page at:
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-- 

*Best regards,*


*Curtis McDaniel, *


*CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
Discover.  -Mark Twain
http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



*cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


* __/) *

.
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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Stainless was $200 a rail and no maintenance for life!
On Feb 22, 2015 4:48 PM, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
wrote:

 So I ha no Idea it would be so pricy. Here is what I was quoted. Is this a
 DIY project? should I try to make my own?
 Help$$$


 *Solid Teak Handrails:*

- *Qty (2) - 9-Loop*
   - *12 Centers*
   - *112 overall length*
   - *1 Thick*
   - *2-1/2 High*
   - *4 Pad Bases*
- *Qty (2) - 6-Loop*
   - *12 Centers*
   - *76 overall length*
   - *1 Thick*
   - *2-1/2 High*
   - *4 Pad Bases*
- *Furnished finish sanded, cleaned, and ready for application of
finish coats by others.*

 *Pricing:*



 *(2) 9-Loop  (2) 6-Loop Solid Teak Handrails - - - - - - - - - - - -
 $1,070.00*



 *Packaging - - - - - - - - - - - - - -  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
 - - - - - - - $55.00*



 *Packaging  Shipping via Motor Freight - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $
 237.00*



 *Total Project - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
 - - - -$1,362.00*



 *Note:*



 *The above prices are valid for thirty (30) days from the date of this
 proposal. *



 *Delivery:*



 *Typically 8 - 12 weeks, dependent upon prior commitments at date of order
 entry.*



 *Payment:*

 On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 8:04 PM, Paul Fountain p...@seasource.ca wrote:

  Had new ones made for Perception by Mark Bruckmann, Bruckmann Yachts,
 his dad was one of the original 3 builders that formed CC  Ran the
 custom shop. They look great on the boat!

 Sent from my iPad

 On Feb 21, 2015, at 5:53 PM, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 wrote:

   I need to replace the 9 loop deck rails and 6 loop interior hand
 rails on my CC30 MK1. they where terrible in shape when i bought the
 boat 2012. I refinished them and rebedded, but they have served the old
 girl well. I have checked the web found a few sources, but I wonder if any
 owners have found the exact replacement ones? Let me know. Thanks for your
 time. Capt Curt.
 --

 *Best regards,*


 *Curtis McDaniel, *


 *CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady *

 Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that
 you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail
 away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore.
 Dream. Discover.  -Mark Twain
 http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



  *cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


 * __/) *

 .



 ___

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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com




 --

 *Best regards,*


 *Curtis McDaniel, *


 *CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady*

 Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you
 didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away
 from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream.
 Discover.  -Mark Twain
 http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/



 *cpt.b...@gmail.com bobhick...@rogers.com*


 * __/) *

 .




 ___

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Re: Stus-List (no subject)

[Antoine Rose via CnC-List]

Easy DIY
Teak is not the only choice. Iroko is an adequate substitute. The original were 
made of mahogany. You can even use recycled pvc planks made for backyard decks 
(not the prettiest, but say adios to varnishing)

DIY, you need a ten feet planks of something, a hole saw (ideally on a 
press-drill) and a router to do the rounding.

Antoine

Le 2015-02-22 à 16:48, Curtis via CnC-List a écrit :

 So I ha no Idea it would be so pricy. Here is what I was quoted. Is this a 
 DIY project? should I try to make my own?
 Help$$$
 
 
 Solid Teak Handrails:
 Qty (2) – 9-Loop
 12” Centers
 112” overall length
 1” Thick
 2-1/2” High
 4” Pad Bases
 Qty (2) – 6-Loop
 12” Centers
 76” overall length
 1” Thick
 2-1/2” High
 4” Pad Bases
 Furnished finish sanded, cleaned, and ready for application of finish coats 
 by others.
 Pricing:
  
 (2) 9-Loop  (2) 6-Loop Solid Teak Handrails - - - - - - - - - - - - $1,070.00
  
 Packaging - - - - - - - - - - - - - -  - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
 - - - - - $55.00
  
 Packaging  Shipping via Motor Freight - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $   
 237.00
  
 Total Project - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 
 - -$1,362.00
  
 Note:
  
 The above prices are valid for thirty (30) days from the date of this 
 proposal. 
  
 Delivery:
  
 Typically 8 - 12 weeks, dependent upon prior commitments at date of order 
 entry.
  
 Payment:
 
 On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 8:04 PM, Paul Fountain p...@seasource.ca wrote:
 Had new ones made for Perception by Mark Bruckmann, Bruckmann Yachts, his dad 
 was one of the original 3 builders that formed CC  Ran the custom shop. 
 They look great on the boat!
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 On Feb 21, 2015, at 5:53 PM, Curtis via CnC-List cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 wrote:
 
 I need to replace the 9 loop deck rails and 6 loop interior hand rails on my 
 CC30 MK1. they where terrible in shape when i bought the boat 2012. I 
 refinished them and rebedded, but they have served the old girl well. I have 
 checked the web found a few sources, but I wonder if any owners have found 
 the exact replacement ones? Let me know. Thanks for your time. Capt Curt.
 -- 
 Best regards,
 
 Curtis McDaniel, 
 
 CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady
 
 Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
 didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
 from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
 Discover.  -Mark Twain
 http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/
 
  
 
 cpt.b...@gmail.com
 
  
 
  __/) 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 ___
 
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 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
 of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 -- 
 Best regards,
 
 Curtis McDaniel, 
 
 CC 30-MK1 East Coast Lady
 
 Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you 
 didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away 
 from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. 
 Discover.  -Mark Twain
 http://eastcostlady.blogspot.com/
 
  
 
 cpt.b...@gmail.com
 
  
 
  __/) 
 
 . 
 
 
 
 ___
 
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