[RBW] Re: FS: Droptube Rivendell Custom 54cm

[Brewster Fong]

Hey Joe, why not get an e-bike?  I'm old and still ride regular bikes, but 
a lot of my friends, especially those in their 70s, have all gone to 
e-bikes. Specialized has arguably the best right now with its second 
battery and 100-120 mile range.

Good Luck! 

On Wednesday, May 8, 2024 at 5:23:30 AM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Motorcycle: I don't know. I think it's going to take a while to sell my 
> Riv at a price I can live with so I'm not real focused on the next step 
> yet. 
>
> On Wednesday, May 8, 2024 at 4:55:23 AM UTC-7 Michael Morrissey wrote:
>
>> What motorcycle are you going to buy?
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, May 8, 2024 at 7:16:12 AM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:
>>
>>> Oh Joe...you waited so long for that bike. I do hope you don't regret 
>>> selling it. I'm sure it'll make someone happy. ...hmm might be a good bike 
>>> for Leah...54 cm MIGHT work for her
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, May 8, 2024 at 12:35:51 AM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>
 $5k + shipping 

 On Tuesday, May 7, 2024 at 10:25:24 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Divorce from reality forces sale, I've convinced myself I want a 
> motorcycle again. Details and geometry in Craigslist ad, I need to take 
> new 
> pics with current drivetrain, will post that album soon. 
>
>
> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/d/clearlake-park-rivendell-custom-54cm/7744497816.html
>
> Joe Bernard 
> joeremi62 gmail com
>


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[RBW] Re: Abomination? Riv Road "upgrades"

[Brewster Fong]

I think carbon wheels have come a long way!  I recently bought a set of 
BTLOS carbon rim brake wheels and love them! They hold up to my 200lb 
weight, are aero (45mm deep rims), and super light (the wheelset came with 
a listed weight of 1305g - 729g rear and 576g front)! That's tubular wheel 
weight! The weight was a surprise as the estimate they gave when I finished 
selecting the parts was 1325 +/- 25g, so I was expecting 1350g! 

Still the wheels have been fantastic and with Reynolds blue carbon pads, I 
find the braking to be excellent, although I haven't ridden them in the 
wet. There's little to no flex and they seem to hold up to everything I put 
them through as I do occasional rides on gravely roads. 

I'm now thinking maybe I should get a set for my Della Santa, which has 
standard 32h Mavic Open Pro rims and Campy Record hubs...lol 

Of course, YMMV! 

Good Luck! 

On Tuesday, March 19, 2024 at 7:57:32 AM UTC-7 josh.yo...@gmail.com wrote:

> Do whatever makes you happy! I have carbon bits on my Homer so we can be 
> abominations together.
>
> Josh
> Seattle, WA
>

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[RBW] For Sale: Classic Dale Saso Tandem Bicycle 53cm/51cm (CTT)

[Brewster Fong]

 For Sale: Classic Dale Saso Tandem Bicycle 53cm/51cm (CTT)

This is a circa 1988 Dale Saso custom-built tandem with mostly Campagnolo 
parts. The fillet-brazed frame itself is in excellent condition with little 
signs of wear and no rust or dents. The workmanship is superb as 
illustrated in the pictures of the fillet brazing on the head tube and seat 
post cluster (photos 4, 5 and 6). The color is a silver-blue fading to 
silver, front to rear with a color-matching Silca pump. The components are 
mostly Campagnolo. The frame was custom-ordered in the late 1980’s and 
built by Dale Saso, a custom bike builder located in San Jose, CA. The bike 
is currently located in San Francisco, CA. Would prefer a local sale in the 
SF Bay Area. I am listing this for a friend who is an architect as can be 
seen by his artful freehand notes

 Frame: double diamond configuration (no diagonal “marathon” tubes). 
Fillet-brazed.
 Seat tube: measures 53cm (captain) x 51cm (stoker) measured center of 
bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube (ctt). 
 Top tube: 21” captain’s top tube x 25” stoker’s top tube (measured center 
to center). 
 Head angle: 73 degrees. 
 Fork Rake 1-3/4”
 Bottom Bracket: oval (“boom”) tube connecting both bottom brackets
 Wheel size: 27” clinchers but adjustable for 700c.
 Hubs: Phil Wood hubs
-Front: 108mm (with standard spoke holes with Campagnolo quick release – 40 
hole
-Rear: 140 mm (with standard spoke holes) comprised of 26mm brake space, 
78mm body and 36mm (6-speed) cluster space. Allen bolt release. 40 hole. 
 Rims: Super Champion Competition 27”
 Tires: Specialized Touring 27” clinchers 
 Headset: Campagnolo Nuovo Record
 Brakes: Mafac cantilever Campagnolo Record braze-on front and Mafac brake 
levers
 Pedals: Campagnolo Superleggero with ALE toe clips and Alfredo Binda 
straps
 Crankset: Campagnolo triple
 Chain: Regina Record Oro drilled
 Derailleurs: Campagnolo Rally (rear) and Nuovo Record front braze-on
 Shifters: Nuovo Record braze-ons
 Freewheel: 6-Speed English threaded
 Handlebars: Cinelli Giro-Italia front/3T(?) stem and 3T handlebar rear 
with custom stem both wrapped with black cloth
 Water bottom mounts (4): with 4 ALE alloy cages
 Pump: color-matched frame-fit Silca 
 Seatpost: Campagnolo Super record front; rear?
 Saddle: front Concor Superleggera front; rear?

Asking price: $1875 plus shipping 
Payment accepted: cash and paypal +3% fees (unless using “friends and 
family”)

Link to photos;
https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sfc/bik/d/san-francisco-fs-classic-dale-saso/7593452133.html

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[RBW] Re: $1800 a fair price for a 53cm Susie? 2-piece silver crankset included

[Brewster Fong]

Is this for an entire bike or a frameset with bb, headset and crankset?  If 
the latter, I would say it is a bit high as you can find plenty of used 
framesets for less.  Of course, YMMV! Good Luck! 

On Monday, July 12, 2021 at 9:58:31 AM UTC-7 Justin Kennedy (Brooklyn, NY) 
wrote:

> A friend is considering buying a used 53cm orange Susie, including bb, 
> headset, and 2-piece Silver crank 
> .
>  
> It's def been ridden hard but in good condition. He seems to be balking at 
> the price but I think it's a fair ask, considering the size and color are 
> most in-demand and difficult to source and it includes bb and crank. What 
> do you think? 

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[RBW] Re: Shimano discontinuing rim-brake hubs?

[Brewster Fong]

LOL, this sounds so much like carbon forks. The fear of death and 
destruction. On the other hand, if you listen to my buddies, you shouldn't 
be on disc brakes if you don't have the proper hydro disc brakes and thru 
axle.  They probably look down at you at mechanical disc brakes and qr 
axles. LOL

I'm still a rim brake hold out and have actually gotten some good deals as 
people want to "upgrade!"  






On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 1:27:22 PM UTC-7 George Schick wrote:

> Chris - while there are other rim brake manufacturers (Paul, Tektro, etc.) 
> who are still making rim brakes, I think one of the concerns - and it has 
> been batted back and forth on this blog as well as by Grant on his own Blug 
> - is that if rim brakes disappear entirely (which I doubt) and cyclists are 
> forced to use disc brakes, they won't be able to do so without a front fork 
> change.  AND, as Grant has pointed out, not all forks are built 
> substantially enough to work safely with disc brakes.  One of the issues 
> discussed had to do with which side of the bike's fork the disc caliper is 
> located.
>
> Just this past week a cyclist in my area had a front wheel "fall off" 
> while riding on a path and he sustained serious head, face, and other 
> injuries.  I'm waiting to find out the details, but I wouldn't be surprised 
> if the bike had a left-side disc brake mount and he hadn't tightened the QR 
> sufficiently, and it worked its way loose during hard braking. 
>
>
> On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 12:35:44 PM UTC-5 Christopher Cote wrote:
>
>> There is no practical reason at all that you couldn't run a disc-brake 
>> hub with a rim-brake rim. Maybe you can make a valid objection for 
>> aesthetic reasons, but it's hardly a reason for concern, IMHO. 
>>
>> Chris
>>
>>
>> On Friday, May 21, 2021 at 11:01:36 AM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Per Grant's blog:
>>>
>>> *Shimano is going to stop making  middle-to-upper end non-disc brake 
>>> hubs soon, road and mountain. *
>>>
>>> Thank God there is always Phil Wood. And no doubt vast quantities of old 
>>> Shimano rim-brake hubs buried in garages worldwide.
>>>
>>>
>>> -- 
>>>
>>> ---
>>> Patrick Moore
>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 9 Speed Cassette Availability

[Brewster Fong]

Agree!  For those who ride Campy and 11 speed, there is a 12-32 Centaur 
cassette that works well. I much prefer a 12t cog over an 11t bc it comes 
with a more useable 16t cog.  Otherwise, 12t starting cogs, outside of the 
12-36 and I think a 12-28 are basically nonexistent for 11 speed.

Good Luck!

On Tuesday, January 26, 2021 at 2:03:26 PM UTC-8 Steve Palincsar wrote:

> For most road drivetrains (i.e., not 26" wheels, and not tiny microdrive 
> chain rings) 12 is a better 1st position than 11 (because it's not as 
> unreasonably high) and in the case of the 12-36, it can easily be 
> customized into a 13-36 simply by replacing the 1st position sprocket (and 
> for most road drive trains with 48T chain rings or larger, a 13T 1st 
> position gives you a more usable top gear than a 12, and at the very top 
> end a 1 tooth gap is nicer than a 2 tooth gap).  In my opinion.
>
>
> On 1/26/21 4:55 PM, lconley wrote:
>
> Shimano makes 11-34, 11-36, 11-40 11 speed mountain cassettes. The 11-34 
> and 11-36 are pretty pricey though. 
>
> Laing
>
> On Tuesday, January 26, 2021 at 4:44:04 PM UTC-5 Tim Baldwin wrote:
>
>> Steve, thanks for the links. I guess I meant hard to find in that I went 
>> to my LBS who did not have any in stock and could not find any currently 
>> available through distributors. I figure this low supply is due to the 
>> surge in sales last year but curious if it could be the beginning of the 
>> industry phasing out of 9 and lower speed parts moving forward. I'm fine 
>> ordering some things online (mostly through Riv or other small 
>> manufacturers that sell directly) but I do prefer supporting local shops.
>>
>> I could also swap chain rings but the crankset is new and my current 
>> cassette is older. Seems easier to swap the cassette. And I'm quite happy 
>> with the current steps in my gearing.
>>
>> Laing, I could fit 11 speed on my new wheel I'm building with a new model 
>> MI5 hub. I have used (and still have in my bin) a SRAM NX 11 speed 
>> cassette/derailleur before. I found the gear range lacking as it is 1x 
>> only. I also tried the Microshift Advent 9 speed. That one I did not like 
>> steps between gears as much. I guess after trying some of the newer stuff, 
>> I'm having trouble seeing the appeal. I can get the gear range I'm looking 
>> for with a 2x9. The 1x systems seem to either give up range or are 
>> ridiculously expensive. There's also something about 9 speed looking 
>> "right" to me on a Rivendell.
>>
>> My main concern is getting parts in the future. I helped out at my LBS 
>> over the summer because they were so busy. This will most likely be another 
>> busy year for bike shops. I think I'll order a handful of cassettes to tide 
>> me over for a while. I hope that as manufacturers catch up with resupplying 
>> parts they continue to make "outdated" 9, 8 and 7 speed stuff. There are 
>> certainly a greater number of options for cassettes when going to 10 and 
>> above.
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 26, 2021 at 1:39:29 PM UTC-6 lconley wrote:
>>
>>> Note that new Shimano 11-speed mountain cassettes fit on old 9-speed 
>>> Shimano style hubs - the 11 speed is only 0.05mm wider than the 9-speed. I 
>>> just put a 12-46 (I used a Shimano 12 tooth 1st position cog in place of 
>>> the 11 tooth cog) 11-speed cassette on my old Phil Wood 9-speed touring hub 
>>> for my Gus Boots Willsen. Fits beautifully - chain even clears the 29x2.5 
>>> tire by 4mm. The inner large cogs kind of cantilever over the hub flange 
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, January 26, 2021 at 2:12:51 PM UTC-5 Tim Baldwin wrote:
>>>

 I'm currently looking for 9 speed cassettes for my Atlantis. I'm hoping 
 to be able to do a tour this year after staying local in 2020. With 
 touring 
 in mind, I'd like 12-36 but it seems those are rather hard to find right 
 now. I currently have 11-32, but I'm riding in flat Chicago. The 12-36 
 would give me the same ratios for my normal riding but get rid of the 11t, 
 which I don't use, and would give me a 36t, which I foresee using on my 
 trip. With the VO 46/30 crank I'm using, this gives me a range of 21 to 
 100 
 gear inches, which seems perfect to me. After seeing the high demand for 
 bike parts in 2020, what do Riv riders predict for future availability of 
 9 
 speed parts? I found someone with a stash of 12-36 9 speed cassettes for 
 sale on ebay, do I stock up now?

 Also, how much does cassette price/quality make a difference? I've 
 mostly used cheaper cassettes but wondering if would make sense to go up 
 to 
 10 speed to take advantage of fancier cassettes. The cassette on ebay I 
 mentioned is Alivio so on the lower end of the spectrum. I'm using a 
 Suntour thumb shifter in friction so I think I could make 10 speed work. 
 However there's something about the ease of setup and maintenance of 9 
 speed shifting that makes me want to stay in that 

Re: [RBW] Re: A Bit Irked that Riv Changed the Seatpost Size

[Brewster Fong]

My bad, the Op did ask about suspension posts. Someone else asked about 
dropper post. Still, it does make you wonder what Grant is thinking going 
to a 26.8mm seatpost on his frames?! 

Good Luck!

On Friday, November 27, 2020 at 8:53:01 AM UTC-8 Brewster Fong wrote:

> The question I have is are these "suspension" post that you refer to the 
> same a dropper post that he OP is seeking?!  The dropper post is the latest 
> thing for gravel/mtbs as it allows you to adjust the saddle height with the 
> press of a button. These posts aren't cheap a they start at like $200 and 
> go up! I think Sram's wireless post is $800+
>
> Good Luck! 
>
> On Thursday, November 26, 2020 at 3:59:09 PM UTC-8 Mark Roland wrote:
>
>> Here are a bunch of 26.8 suspension posts on eBay 
>> <https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=26.8+seat+post&_sacat=0=nc%2520Type=Suspension%2520Seatpost&_dcat=58101>
>>  
>> right now. Should last a lifetime of Rivs!
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, November 26, 2020 at 6:48:44 PM UTC-5 Mark Roland wrote:
>>
>>> Yes. Tubing diameter and thickness generally dictates seat post size. In 
>>> that sense, the sizing is part of its functionality. A 26.8 seat post size 
>>> is not exactly unusual, and before 27.2 became dominant, was fairly common. 
>>> I have several bikes, other than my recent Rivs, that use this size. 
>>>
>>> If you want a cheap but good one, you can get a Kalloy Uno 
>>> <https://www.modernbike.com/kalloy-uno-602-seatpost-26.8-x-350mm-silver>
>>> .
>>>
>>> If you want a middle range, you can get one from Dajia Cycleworks(note 
>>> most sizes currently out of stock).
>>>
>>> If you want blingy dingy doo, you can get a Nitto 
>>> <https://www.rivbike.com/collections/seat-posts/products/nitto-s83-seat-post-26-8-or-27-2>
>>> .
>>>
>>> There are many vintage 26.8 seat posts available on eBay, including 
>>> Campy 
>>> <https://www.ebay.com/itm/Campagnolo-Nuovo-Record-Seatpost-26-8-1980-s/174534355105?hash=item28a30ee8a1:g:jRIAAOSwpVxfvWOq>
>>>  
>>> (though these tend to often be short) .
>>>
>>> Or use the seat post included with all Rivendell framesets.
>>>
>>> Before we pile on too heavy, I don't see it as a dying, esoteric size at 
>>> this point.
>>>
>>> The OP wants to run a suspension post due to medical issues. Running a 
>>> suspension post, which are of questionable value in my experience (but 
>>> obviously not for the OP), is what is unusual, not the seat post size.
>>>
>>> I think there are probably ways (though perhaps pricey) to have your 
>>> cake and eat it too. For that you might need to go custom, as I pointed out 
>>> above. Since Thudbuster makes specialty seat posts while Riv makes standard 
>>> bicycles, it would make more sense to complain to TB and try to convince 
>>> them there is a market for 26.8 suspension seat posts. 
>>> On Thursday, November 26, 2020 at 2:51:41 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>
>>>> Isn't seatpost diameter dictated by tubing choice? That said, I agree 
>>>> that 26.8 is less desirable given supply than 27.2.
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Nov 26, 2020 at 10:19 AM Nathan F  wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I was also disappointed to learn my Hillborne used a 26.8. What a 
>>>>> frustrating choice, since seat post diameter is one of the few things in 
>>>>> the bicycling industry that is *almost* standard nowadays (ignoring 
>>>>> the sizes in use on modern MTB, plus all the proprietary crap). Then here 
>>>>> comes Riv using something else! And instead of picking a size with some 
>>>>> sort of tangible benefit, they picked a seemingly random one used 
>>>>> infrequently 3+ decades ago. It's a bit eye-rolling, really, for all of 
>>>>> Riv's talk over the years bemoaning the fickleness of the industry they 
>>>>> then spec the strangest, most hard to find post diameters (30.0 on a 
>>>>> custom?? Really? I'd return it!).
>>>>>
>>>>> Here's a controversial statement: being the only frame manufacturer 
>>>>> using a dead/rare post size is almost no different than using a 
>>>>> proprietary 
>>>>> seat post. 
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>  
>>>> -- 
>>>>
>>>> ---
>>>> Patrick Moore
>>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>>>
>>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: A Bit Irked that Riv Changed the Seatpost Size

[Brewster Fong]

The question I have is are these "suspension" post that you refer to the 
same a dropper post that he OP is seeking?!  The dropper post is the latest 
thing for gravel/mtbs as it allows you to adjust the saddle height with the 
press of a button. These posts aren't cheap a they start at like $200 and 
go up! I think Sram's wireless post is $800+

Good Luck! 

On Thursday, November 26, 2020 at 3:59:09 PM UTC-8 Mark Roland wrote:

> Here are a bunch of 26.8 suspension posts on eBay 
> 
>  
> right now. Should last a lifetime of Rivs!
>
>
>
> On Thursday, November 26, 2020 at 6:48:44 PM UTC-5 Mark Roland wrote:
>
>> Yes. Tubing diameter and thickness generally dictates seat post size. In 
>> that sense, the sizing is part of its functionality. A 26.8 seat post size 
>> is not exactly unusual, and before 27.2 became dominant, was fairly common. 
>> I have several bikes, other than my recent Rivs, that use this size. 
>>
>> If you want a cheap but good one, you can get a Kalloy Uno 
>> .
>>
>> If you want a middle range, you can get one from Dajia Cycleworks(note 
>> most sizes currently out of stock).
>>
>> If you want blingy dingy doo, you can get a Nitto 
>> 
>> .
>>
>> There are many vintage 26.8 seat posts available on eBay, including Campy 
>> 
>>  
>> (though these tend to often be short) .
>>
>> Or use the seat post included with all Rivendell framesets.
>>
>> Before we pile on too heavy, I don't see it as a dying, esoteric size at 
>> this point.
>>
>> The OP wants to run a suspension post due to medical issues. Running a 
>> suspension post, which are of questionable value in my experience (but 
>> obviously not for the OP), is what is unusual, not the seat post size.
>>
>> I think there are probably ways (though perhaps pricey) to have your cake 
>> and eat it too. For that you might need to go custom, as I pointed out 
>> above. Since Thudbuster makes specialty seat posts while Riv makes standard 
>> bicycles, it would make more sense to complain to TB and try to convince 
>> them there is a market for 26.8 suspension seat posts. 
>> On Thursday, November 26, 2020 at 2:51:41 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Isn't seatpost diameter dictated by tubing choice? That said, I agree 
>>> that 26.8 is less desirable given supply than 27.2.
>>>
>>> On Thu, Nov 26, 2020 at 10:19 AM Nathan F  wrote:
>>>
 I was also disappointed to learn my Hillborne used a 26.8. What a 
 frustrating choice, since seat post diameter is one of the few things in 
 the bicycling industry that is *almost* standard nowadays (ignoring 
 the sizes in use on modern MTB, plus all the proprietary crap). Then here 
 comes Riv using something else! And instead of picking a size with some 
 sort of tangible benefit, they picked a seemingly random one used 
 infrequently 3+ decades ago. It's a bit eye-rolling, really, for all of 
 Riv's talk over the years bemoaning the fickleness of the industry they 
 then spec the strangest, most hard to find post diameters (30.0 on a 
 custom?? Really? I'd return it!).

 Here's a controversial statement: being the only frame manufacturer 
 using a dead/rare post size is almost no different than using a 
 proprietary 
 seat post. 

>>>
>>>  
>>> -- 
>>>
>>> ---
>>> Patrick Moore
>>> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Black hole of mixing Campagnolo and Shimano

[Brewster Fong]

I have a friend who is doing this and one caveat he found, mixing DA 9 
drivetrain with Campy 11 shifters is only possible if you use Campy 11 
shifters from 2011-14. The newer ergo shifters, from 2015+, have a 
different "pull" and will not work with his DA 9 drivetrain.  

He is trying to find the earlier Campy 11 shifters, but I think ebay may be 
his only source.

I know, Good Luck! 

On Friday, November 20, 2020 at 6:22:20 PM UTC-8 Kurt Manley wrote:

> Campy 10 or 11 speed shifters work perfectly with shimano 9 speed. Unless 
> you already have the 9 speed levers I'd shop for 10 or 11 speed levers.
>
> good info here,
> https://www.cxmagazine.com/shimano-campagnolo-ergopower-compatibility
>
> On Friday, November 20, 2020 at 11:52:46 AM UTC-8 Damien wrote:
>
>> Hey all, hoping to tap your collective knowledge on this topic. I have a 
>> pretty standard Albatross-Riv-Shimano set up on my Sam (Deore RD, Tiagra 
>> FD, 11-36 9 speed cassette with Sugino triple up front, Microshift 9 speed 
>> bar end shifters) and am *exploring *the idea of converting to drop bars 
>> and using 9 speed Campagnolo Centaur shifters (since I love the way these 
>> look and feel), potentially using a JTek Shiftmate 3. 
>>
>> It sounds simple, but as with most things, I imagine it's not as simple 
>> as it sounds. Before I start getting parts together for this mess, would 
>> love to know if anyone feels strongly about this working well together, not 
>> working well together, or if it's not worth the hassle and I just stick 
>> with my Microshift bar ends on the drops. I figured that it would be nice 
>> to keep the whole upright stem-handlebar-levers-shifters combo in tact if I 
>> want to go back upright, and since I'm changing bar styles, why not 
>> consider another option?
>>
>> Anyways, would love all of your thoughts on this, especially if you have 
>> first-hand experience. Thank you all in advance!
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: new Google Groups question

[Brewster Fong]

The new group sucks. But, new messages should be highlighted (bold). If so, 
then read what you want. Look for the 3 dots to mark as read for whatever 
you don't read. Good Luck! 

On Tuesday, November 10, 2020 at 3:25:12 PM UTC-8 dougP wrote:

> Apparently the classic format is now history.  My question is:  Is there 
> any indicator as to which posts are updated or new?  In the classic format, 
> new & updated posts were bolded.  Hopefully it's just these old eyes 
> missing something obvious, but I don't see any way to see the difference.  
> Does anyone know or see some indicator that I'm missing?
>
> Thx,
>
> Doug peterson
>

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Re: [RBW] Brake levers for setting up Canti front and V for rear wheel

[Brewster Fong]

Agree. I had the cheapest mini-v brakes up front (Tektro 926al) and a 
Suntour XC Pro canti brake in the rear and worked well. The problem I had 
with canti up front was it would squeal, shudder and had almost no stopping 
power. I changed pads to Kool stop salmon and that helped, but the problems 
persisted. I was consistently adjusting the front canti and it would work 
for like 5 minutes or maybe one ride. In the end, my LBS suggested giving 
the cheap v-brake a shot and WOW, all of a sudden I had stopping power 
without any shuddering or squealing!  

Of course, I later learned that one option that might have helped would be 
to use a fork cable hanger as it might have stopped the squealing and 
shuddering, maybe...it looks like this:

[image: Tektro Front Cable Hangar with Adjusting Barrel 1-1/8]

Of course, YMMV! 

Good Luck!

On Monday, August 3, 2020 at 1:34:12 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Since V brakes are often (not always!) more powerful (meaning, here, brake 
> harder for given hand pressure) than cantilevers, I'd say that you are 
> wasting your time thinking of a V for the rear. I can see a V for the 
> front, leaving aside modulation, if you want a higher stopping 
> power-to-hand pressure, but in the rear, anything works, IME -- even the 
> most horribly ineffective brakes I've used in front worked fine in the rear.
>
> On Mon, Aug 3, 2020 at 2:16 PM Ash > wrote:
>
>> Generally I have no problems with v-brakes.  I like them.  When I used 
>> them on my last 2 Riv builds, I felt like they can a bit too abrupt for 
>> front wheels at times.  A modulator solved that problem.  Since I do not go 
>> on mountain biking or on technical trails, a little mushiness the modulator 
>> introduces is not an issue.
>>
>> However, I like experimenting.  Will at Riv had once mentioned in passing 
>> that Canti for front ant v for back would be ideal.  That idea stuck with 
>> me.  My new Susie is going to be built that way.  Ideally I would like the 
>> brake levers on left and right to have the same feel.  Is there a v-brake 
>> lever that has a similarly shaped canti counterpart?  Or are there levers 
>> that support both modes? 
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Anyone ever hear of a parts builder OMAS.

[Brewster Fong]

Yeah, I think they stopped making bike parts like 40 years ago. But that 
doesn't mean what you found isn't good! If it works for you, I say go for 
it! Good Luck! 

On Sunday, July 26, 2020 at 10:52:51 AM UTC-7 Joel Stern wrote:

> Brewster, that was the only thing I could find. I may just take a chance 
> and buy the NOS hubs I found. Thanks
>
> On Sun, Jul 26, 2020 at 11:10 AM Brewster Fong  wrote:
>
>> There is a page on them at the Classic Rendezvous site:
>>
>> http://www.classicrendezvous.com/Italy/OMAS.htm
>>
>> I remember buying this part kit way back in the mid to late 80s. I still 
>> may have a nut or something in my box, but the parts were really light!
>>
>>
>> http://www.bikerecyclery.com/nib-o-m-a-s-complete-hardware-upgrade-kit-for-campagnolo-nuovo-super-record-alloy-ti/
>>
>> Good Luck!
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, July 26, 2020 at 8:04:54 AM UTC-7, Joel Stern wrote:
>>>
>>> They seen to have worked with campy for a bit.  Any info is appreciated. 
>>>  
>>>
>>> Thanks
>>>
>>> Joel
>>>
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>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/f831b8cd-fb8e-4af0-982a-8abbc1c8c353o%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Anyone ever hear of a parts builder OMAS.

[Brewster Fong]

There is a page on them at the Classic Rendezvous site:

http://www.classicrendezvous.com/Italy/OMAS.htm

I remember buying this part kit way back in the mid to late 80s. I still 
may have a nut or something in my box, but the parts were really light!

http://www.bikerecyclery.com/nib-o-m-a-s-complete-hardware-upgrade-kit-for-campagnolo-nuovo-super-record-alloy-ti/

Good Luck!


On Sunday, July 26, 2020 at 8:04:54 AM UTC-7, Joel Stern wrote:
>
> They seen to have worked with campy for a bit.  Any info is appreciated.  
>
> Thanks
>
> Joel
>

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[RBW] Re: Derailer / Shifter Math for my Custom

[Brewster Fong]

I can confirm that ALL 11 speed systems work together equally. So you can 
mix and match Campy drivetrain with Shimano/Sram cassettes or visa versa. 
So if you have a Campy 11 drivetrain, e.g., Campy shifters and derailleurs, 
you can use a wheel that has Shimano 11 cassette. Just make sure you use an 
11 speed chain. I like KMC, but there's Sram, Wipperman and others, 
especially if you want a master link. 

Good Luck! 

On Thursday, July 23, 2020 at 4:51:50 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> The first thing I would do is try the Campy 11 shifter and derailer with 
> the Shimano 11 cassette. I don't have the cold hard facts in front of me, 
> but anecdotal evidence is the spacing is so close for 11- and 12-speed 
> systems that it'll work just fine. 

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[RBW] Re: Grand Bois Cypres 700 x 30 substitutes?

[Brewster Fong]

I just picked up a pair of Schwalbe One V-Guard clincher tires to try on my 
Trek Madone. Interestingly, for a "racing style" bike, it has plenty of 
clearance!

At only $26 each, these seem like a decent deal:


https://www.backcountry.com/schwalbe-one-tire-clincher?s=a

Good Luck!

On Monday, June 22, 2020 at 4:37:28 PM UTC-7, Nick Payne wrote:
>
> Schwalbe have the G-One Speed 700x30. I've been running these tubeless for 
> a couple of years.
>
> Nick
>

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[RBW] Re: Valuating modified 2003 Curt Goodrich 26" wheel custom frame FS

[Brewster Fong]

I too agree that $500 is about the right price. One issue is tire size. 
Your tires are 26" (559mm) and most bikes today run "29ers" or 700c (622mm) 
wheels. There is even a single speed CX racing category, but again, it uses 
700c wheels. 

Still, it might fit in the vintage mtb category where 26" wheels are still 
king! LOL

Good Luck!


On Friday, June 19, 2020 at 7:13:43 AM UTC-7, A. Douglas M. wrote:
>
> I love your customs, Patrick, but they are tough sales as single speed 
> unique geos by a low production builder. 
>
> Looking on eBay custom frames have been going for $500 (No rad racks). The 
> only two recent sales going for 1200 and 2000 were a Pegoretti and Vanilla 
> respectively. 
>
> I’m sure you could get more but I’d imagine it would take a while. I’d 
> list it for $1500 and start a dialogue with any potential buyers. 
>
> FWIW I always have at least one single speed in my quiver.  
>
> Best, 
>
> Aaron 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Brake lever preference with Nitto Noodles

[Brewster Fong]

If you ever decide to use Campy ergo levers, I use both the 2nd gen (round 
hoods) and the latest 3rd gen (gumby hoods) with Nitto Noodle bars and love 
it! 

Of course, YMMV!

Good Luck!

On Saturday, May 16, 2020 at 7:45:55 AM UTC-7, Erik Wright wrote:
>
> Howdy,
>
> I have a Roadini set up with 46cm Noodles. I'm using 9spd 105 brifters 
> that I took off my old road bike, and I'm struggling to dial in the feel of 
> the hoods. This is partially due to the lever / hood design (pretty boxy 
> and bulky, don't like it that much), but I also can't work out the bar to 
> hood transition, if that makes sense. I'd like a smooth transition from the 
> top of the bar into the hood position of the lever, in effect creating a 
> feel of the bullhorn handlebar. After many micro adjustments, I just can't 
> get that with this lever/bar combo. Either the levers feel too close and 
> create a harsh/abrupt transition to the hoods, or they're too far below the 
> bend for my liking.
>
> I figured I'd switch to downtube shifters and go with the Tiagra BL-R400 that 
> Riv sells 
> 
>  
> and uses on most of their bikes, but wanted to check in and see if anyone 
> here has a different lever that they *love* with Noodles. Brakes are Paul 
> Racers, if that's a factor.
>
> Let's hear 'em!
>
> Erik, Philly
>
> p.s. Riv's out of stock with those Tiagra levers so if you have some in 
> your bin that you'd like to get rid of, consider this a low key WTB post.
>

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Re: [RBW] Tubulars on Rivendells

[Brewster Fong]

On Saturday, April 25, 2020 at 6:17:23 PM UTC-7, ted wrote:
>
> Re: association of tubulars with "roadies" 
>
. These days I don't know what a typical tubular rider would be except 
> perhaps a professional racer.
>

Another reason some people are willing to ride tubular tires is because of 
carbon rims. A couple of my buddies ride carbon tubular wheels that weigh 
in the 1000 to 1200g range for the wheelset!  That's crazy light. They also 
claim they can feel the acceleration like when you sometimes need to "close 
the gap" or maybe was watching and people took off and now you're 
struggling to stay in contact. And since the "pros" use it, I think 
tubulars will be here for a while.

>
> Anybody in the sf bay area interested in a pair of old lightly used light 
> tubular wheels? Mavic hubs (freewheel rear)  gl280 front gl330 rear rims. 
> There's an AC aluminum freewheel on the rear at the moment.
>
> On Saturday, April 25, 2020 at 4:48:04 PM UTC-7, Bill Schairer wrote:
>>
>> Also being a Bill, I’ll volunteer my answer to Ted’s question.  I have 
>> two sets of the Vlaanderen tires, each set with about 1800 miles times 4 
>> gives me about 7200 tire miles? I have had one puncture too large for 
>> sealant -glass cut.  The tire was at about the rated mileage limit and well 
>> worn but, unlike Bill L, I had no previous experience repairing tubulars so 
>> doing the repair was my opportunity for a learning experience.  REMA patch 
>> and glue worked and the tire is still in service.  All other punctures (not 
>> sure how many but not a lot) have been fixed with sealant.  I’ve opted to 
>> ride with 2 spares and save sealant injections for home.  I’ve changed 
>> exactly one tire on the road, the aforementioned flat. All other punctures 
>> were slow enough that I got home or they sealed from previously 
>> administered sealant.  So far, I’ve come to the conclusion that latex tubes 
>> are more puncture resistant than butyl and leak more slowly when punctured. 
>>  I’ve also pulled 3 goat heads out of tires with no sealant without any 
>> resulting loss of pressure.  I don’t think I can ever remember doing that 
>> with a clincher. 
>>
>> I also did a complete tube replacement on a used FMB tire that I acquired 
>> with a leak.  That involved cutting a new $15 tube in half, pulling it 
>> through and gluing it back together. Probably got the instructions on that 
>> from Sheldon Brown.  It took a long time but, again, this was a learning 
>> experience.  That tire has about 90 of my miles on it.  Not the greatest 
>> repair job - a little lumpy - but definitely worth it. 
>>
>> I am also puzzled by a couple comments I’ve seen regarding these tires 
>> being for “roadies.”  I don’t consider myself a roadie - never raced - 
>> always been a commuter, tourer and now recreational rider too.  I’ve ridden 
>> my tubulars on and off road and will ride them under any conditions I would 
>> ride a clincher.  Besides that, I believe many cyclocross racers use 
>> tubulars and I shouldn’t think they are roadies.  Just saying. 
>>
>> I apologize as I know I have a tendency to get carried away with my 
>> enthusiasm but reading the positive experiences of others who debunked the 
>> notion that tubulars are something exotic not worth the trouble finally 
>> pushed me to give them a try.  I mean, there are similar discussions 
>> regarding tubeless? Besides, the more people who will give them a shot, the 
>> better chance we will get or keep more choices.  I highly recommend them 
>> for anyone who enjoys working on their bicycles.  If somebody else does all 
>> your work, maybe not the right choice.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Bill Walton and Friends Bike For Humanity Event

[Brewster Fong]

What I find funny is his bike is like a what 68-70cm and there's no double 
top tube!  In comparison Grant puts a double top tube on a 56cm bikebut 
I do like that he as either 32h or 36h wheels! Need that durability! Good 
Luck!

On Wednesday, April 8, 2020 at 10:42:04 AM UTC-7, Robert Tilley wrote:
>
> Bill is a big Deadhead and I'm pretty sure that one is custom painted to 
> prove it. His Holland in the attached pics was.
>
> Robert "Bill went to my high school but way before me" Tilley
> San Diego, CA
>
> Sent from my BlackBerry - the most secure mobile device
> *From:* bfd...@gmail.com 
> *Sent:* April 8, 2020 8:49 AM
> *To:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com 
> *Reply-to:* rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com 
> *Subject:* [RBW] Re: Bill Walton and Friends Bike For Humanity Event
>
> Now that's a big bike! And look only a single top tube...LOL
>
>
> On Wednesday, April 8, 2020 at 8:11:49 AM UTC-7, Kent Peterson -- Eugene, 
> Oregon wrote:
>>
>> This ride, featuring proper social distancing, looks like fun for a good 
>> cause.
>>
>>
>> http://kentsbike.blogspot.com/2020/04/bill-walton-and-friends-inter-galactic.html
>>
>> Kent Peterson
>> Eugene, OR USA
>>
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>  
> 
> .
>

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[RBW] Re: Bill Walton and Friends Bike For Humanity Event

[Brewster Fong]

Now that's a big bike! And look only a single top tube...LOL


On Wednesday, April 8, 2020 at 8:11:49 AM UTC-7, Kent Peterson -- Eugene, 
Oregon wrote:
>
> This ride, featuring proper social distancing, looks like fun for a good 
> cause.
>
>
> http://kentsbike.blogspot.com/2020/04/bill-walton-and-friends-inter-galactic.html
>
> Kent Peterson
> Eugene, OR USA
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Who needs a custom?

[Brewster Fong]

Agree. I went out this morning and found I had a flat rear tire (slow 
leak!). So I put that bike away and took out my other bike. Assuming you 
have the room, it is nice to have more than one bike. Otherwise, if you 
really only want one bike, make sure you have extra wheels! Good Luck!

On Monday, March 30, 2020 at 2:34:11 PM UTC-7, James Valiensi wrote:
>
> What would you do if you could only have one bicycle? 
>
> I’d just kill myself... 
>
> > On Mar 30, 2020, at 1:26 PM, ted > 
> wrote: 
> > 
> > True, dat 
> > 
> > -- 
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> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/823f2d7a-8000-465e-9433-21ce9c1ab91e%40googlegroups.com.
>  
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Custom, not a custom

[Brewster Fong]

Cool. That price is right in line with other top builders like Dave Kirk 
and Dave Wages/Ellis Cycles!  For example, Dave Kirk's Onesto lugged 
stainless steel tubing (Reynolds 953) is right there at like $4200. Dave 
Wages/Ellis starts at like $3500 and can easily go up pass $7000 for a 
frameset!

Of course, neither  wouldn't have Grant/Rivendell's geometry!  Lots of good 
choices out there!

Good Luck!


On Thursday, February 13, 2020 at 9:10:01 AM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> The new (as of 2/13/20) Blahg mentions a new program from Riv which I 
> think is brilliant. Mark Nobilette is going to do some frames kind of 
> in-between the current styles and original, and will be offered as 
> completes with Joe Bell paint (Riv's color, geometry and parts choices) for 
> around $4000. 
>
> I ain't mad that I'm spending significantly more to get a true custom 
> built for my needs in my color. I may be mad later when I decide I need one 
> of these, too 

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[RBW] Re: The Collector's Edition

[Brewster Fong]

My buddy is into MTBs and he does a "vintage" ride every year in Marin 
County. Basically, 90s-era mtb bikes and components are considered vintage. 
Last year he picked up a fairly rare Fat Chance (Yo Eddy?). All of these 
bikes have 26" wheels and tires (559mm). This is basically outdated 
technology and he loves it. Granted, he's an mtb/cross type guy and has 4 
other bikes with proper 700c wheels aka 29ers and a bunch of dedicated road 
bikes. So if you're into vintage, look at 90s-era mtbs!  Good Luck1

On Sunday, February 9, 2020 at 8:41:08 PM UTC-8, Jason Fuller wrote:
>
> So, I've been into bikes for three full decades now but I also spent more 
> than a decade being really into older Volkswagens. I definitely gravitated 
> towards the historically significant models:  I had a 1992 Jetta GTX 16V, a 
> 1984 Rabbit Pickup diesel, and perhaps most notably a 1975 Golf swallowtail 
> with carbureted 1.5L. 
>
> My 1992 XO-1 reminds me of that '75 Golf in a lot of ways. It's 
> historically significant, really exciting to a very select few people. It's 
> fun to operate, raw and agile, but the vast majority of people would not 
> understand the attraction. It's geekery at its purest.  
>
> I've tinkered with the build, trying to balance doing it justice while 
> also keeping the investment reasonable as my Hillborne is the "nice bike" 
> of the fleet. I'm happy with where it's at. The only planned update is Rene 
> Herse Elk Pass tires to replace the touring Pasela's. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Rene Herse Triple

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, January 22, 2020 at 11:04:19 AM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
> On 1/22/20 1:51 PM, Jack K wrote:
>
> Steve Palincsar wrote in part: 
> *Also, I started out prejudiced against 11 speed: a bad Spinal Tap joke, 1 
> more useless speed provided at the cost of hundred dollar chains and a 
> three hundred dollar chain tool.   *
>
> Steve, if you're paying $100 for a decent 11 speed chain or $300 for a 
> serviceable 11 speed chain tool you really ought to rethink your part and 
> tool suppliers. For reference I just fired up www.jenson.com and found 
> the following apparent bargains on 11 spd chains and chain tools (w/ free 
> shipping on a $60 order):
>
>- SRAM PC-1110 cheapie chains for $14/each: 
>https://www.jensonusa.com/SRAM-PC-1110-Powerlock-11SP-Chain 
>- Shimano SLX/105 HG-601 mid-quality chains for $19.99/each: 
>https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-CN-HG601-11-Speed-Chain 
>- Shimano XT/Ultegra HG-701 better-quality chains $26.99/each: 
>https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-XtUltegra-CH-HG701-11SP-Chain 
>- Shimano XTR/Dura-Ace HG-901 ultimate-quality chains $34.99/each: 
>https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-XtrDura-Ace-CH-HG901-11SP-Chain 
>- Cheapier portable 11spd chain tool $4.90/each: 
>https://www.jensonusa.com/Foundation-325P2-Bike-Chain-Breaker-Tool 
>- Park CT-5 portable chain tool compatible with 5-12 spd chains 
>$16.95/each: 
>https://www.jensonusa.com/Park-Tool-CT-5-Compact-Chain-Tool 
>- Park CT-3.3 shop style chain tool compatible with 5-12 spd chains 
>$36.95/each: 
>https://www.jensonusa.com/Park-Tool-CT-33-5-12-Speed-Chain-Tool 
>
> When you wrote about the $100 11 speed chains and $300 11 speed chain 
> tools did you really think that was accurate or was that intended to be a 
> humorous exaggeration? In any case, stock up now while prices are low!
>
>
> It may be humorous exaggeration now, but when 11 first was introduced, 
> indeed the only choices were hundred dollar chains and a special three 
> hundred dollar Campagnolo chain tool (it was Campagnolo or nothing).  And 
> as the saying goes, you only get one chance to make a first impression.
>
 
In contast, when I built up my DS last year, I went with a Chorus 11 
drivetrain and used a KMC x93 11 speed chain, it  cost around $20-25 and 
has a removable link. In the past, I have used a Campy 9 chain with a sram 
masterlink, it worked fine. So if you like removable links, like I do, just 
get an aftermarket one from Sram, KMC, Wipperman and others. Of course, 
YMMV! Good Luck! 
 

> -- 
>
> Steve Palincsar
> Alexandria, Virginia 
> USA
>
>

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[RBW] Re: 1/1/20 Blahg

[Brewster Fong]

On Thursday, January 2, 2020 at 9:33:42 PM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I don't think he's right about the return of dt shifters. I would also 
> contest his contention that manual shift is making a comeback in sports 
> cars; there's a stalwart few who never abandoned them, but I'm not seeing a 
> mad rush back in that area. Dual-clutch semi-autos with paddle shifters are 
> not the car equivalent of downtubers. 


Agree, this is way off topic, but what car mfr is bringing back manual 
shifters?!  Yes, Miatas, certain Hondas, Toyotas. VWs, Ford, GM and of 
course BMW and Porsche still offer it.

But with the advent of Battery Electric Vehicles (BEV), the leader is Tesla 
and they only have one speed. Same for the Chevy Bolt and Nissan Leaf.  
Even the new $150K Porsche Taycan will only have a 2 speed transmission. 
None of these BEVs have manual transmissions. 

Similarly, with bicycles, things are going to e-shifting with Shimano di2, 
Sram etap and Campy EPS. They all work very well. I don't see a return to 
dt shiftersGood Luck! 

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[RBW] Re: Law professor, Riv Rider

[Brewster Fong]

I recall it was a custom, not an atlantis. According to this former Riv 
builder Joe Stark said he built it:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/22432095@N03/2844653628

Further, there was a story that the bikes were stolen:

https://www.bikingbis.com/2009/01/13/jimmy-carters-bicycle-ripped-off-secret-service-on-the-case/

Don't know what he rides today...

On Thursday, December 5, 2019 at 11:28:17 AM UTC-8, tc wrote:
>
> Interesting. Maybe we should invite her to the Bunch. Also makes me wonder 
> who among the “famous” also rides Riv’s. I know President Carter has a red 
> Atlantis — but haven’t heard about any others. I’m sure there are some... 
>
> Tom

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[RBW] Re: Anyone elsed notice Rivendell's freaky, inconsistent seatpost standards?

[Brewster Fong]

There appears to be two major sources for 26.8 and 29.8mm seatposts. 
Kalloy, as you mentioned, and Thomson. Not sure anyone else, including 
Nitto sells a 29.8mm.Good Luck!


On Monday, November 11, 2019 at 10:39:19 AM UTC-8, Matt D wrote:
>
> So what's the deal with Grant's thinking on seatposts? There are a lot of 
> Rivs that come with the 26.8mm seatpost standard. Roadini, Sam H., and the 
> lower two sizes of the Clem come with 26.8 and I believe all the others are 
> made for 27.2 or 29.8 in the case of the Hubbuhubbuh and 59cm Clem.
>
> So, my questions...
>
> Considering how hard they are to come by outside of the stock Kalloy 
> seatposts Rivendell ships with frames, "Dajia Cycleworks" (really just a 
> Velo Orange house brand), and Nitto stuff, why use it at all? Does the 
> 0.4mm jump really impart much of a benefit to ride quality? If it does and 
> you're already willing to forego wide compatibility why not go straight to 
> 26.0? When 26.8 isn't used, why isn't it used? Why jump straight to 29.8 
> for the largest Clem? If a 59cm Clem needs such a beefy seatpost shouldn't 
> the 57 and 61 Roadinis get one too, or are they not offroady enough? Why do 
> tall Clems have to use a seatpost in a size Rivendell doesn't even sell? Do 
> the Roadeo and Homer use 27.2 so people can use more conventional 
> with-the-times parts on it and if so, why not others too?
>
> I've always been baffled by this so if anyone with inside knowledge can 
> explain this to me I'd love to hear why.
>

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[RBW] Re: PSA: Riv Cross Custom

[Brewster Fong]

On Sunday, November 3, 2019 at 5:11:25 PM UTC-8, Fullylugged wrote:
>
> The lister is apparently not a fan of current the Riv line-up. The slammed 
> stem, sort cage D-A rear with a race pine cone and racing crankset is 
> totally out of place on this fireroads designed bike. The price is about 
> double what I predict it will end up going for. Pretty frame set though.


Interesting that you think the stem is "slammed."  To me, the handlebar is 
the same height as the saddle, which is basically what Grant preaches.  
Further, the crankset isn't really  "racing" as it could be a Ritchey Logic 
compact, although he doesn't list the chainring sizes. I think it would be 
a nice bike to ride on trails, gravel or fire roads, although I'm a roadie 
and don't really ride off-road. But, I agree the price is a bit ambitious 
and agree that it should sell at about half of what he wants. Hmm, I wonder 
if he would sell just the frameset...

YMMV, Good Luck!

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[RBW] Re: Charlie H Gallop!

[Brewster Fong]

On Friday, September 20, 2019 at 3:20:01 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Truss Bike!


Maybe the ugliest bike ever made

[image: Image result for kirk precision bicycle]

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Re: [RBW] Re: Custom Rivendell Roadbike for sale 59cm

[Brewster Fong]

Yes, assuming your bike is a true "custom" Rivendell, e.g., it was hand 
built by one of a number of excellent frame builders, then it will be worth 
more if the "sticker decals" say Rivendell instead of Resurrectio

Further, I notice you have some hashtags on the bottom of your CL ad -- 
#waterford, #toyo, #steel.  It is interesting that you list Toyo as they 
are a Japanese builder, not MUSA. Since you have the original paperwork, it 
should say who was the builder. If so, you should list it as a frame built 
by say Goodrich, Sachs, Nobilette, Starck, Della Santa or a number of other 
excellent builders is going to worth more.

But that's up to you. If you're happy with the way it is advertised, then 
good luck with the sale! 

On Tuesday, August 20, 2019 at 12:51:04 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I think what Brewster is getting at is it warrants new Rivendell decals. 
> You're going to get burned on the price selling as is.  

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[RBW] Re: Custom Rivendell Roadbike for sale 59cm

[Brewster Fong]

I don't understand why this is called a "Resurrectio" if you have the 
paperwork that shows it was originally a custom Rivendell?!  I know it has 
been repainted, but shouldn't the original paperwork prove it was a custom? 

Good Luck!

On Monday, August 19, 2019 at 1:25:34 PM UTC-7, Ahmed Elgasseir wrote:
>
> 59cm MUSA Riv for sale. Built in 2003. 700c wheels, chris king headset, 
> Nitto bars, stem, and seatpost plus much more. 
> I bought it off the original owner so I have the receipt and original 
> build list, although some stuff has been modified/upgraded since then. 
> Recently repainted/reborn as a Resurectio by Silva Cycles in Campbell. 
> It's in perfect condition. Contact me for pics. I'm thinning out my herd 
> and it's always been a tad too big for me (I'm 5'9"). 
>
> thanks!

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Re: [RBW] SRAM quick link release, g-r-r-r-r-r

[Brewster Fong]

And if you don't like Park, KMC makes a similar tool too:

[image: undefined]

On Tuesday, June 11, 2019 at 2:46:29 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> Park makes a tool for that.   $16
>
> [image: Park Tool MLP-1 Master Link Pliers]
> On 6/11/19 5:37 PM, George Schick wrote:
>
> This afternoon I struggled to get a easy-link (or whatever SRAM calls it) 
> to "release" so I could clean the chain on one of my bikes.  Granted, this 
> chain has been in use for quite a few years before I got around to removing 
> and cleaning it, but sheesh you'd think it would still come apart 
> relatively easily.  Nope, I tried dosing it with TriFlow, then with Liquid 
> Wrench, and finally with good old reliable PB Blaster, but none of them 
> loosened it up enough to allow the easy link to be squeezed together to the 
> point where it would come apart.  I wound up resorting to the use of a 
> chain tool to forcefully get it apart.  Anyone have any recommendations of 
> either a solvent or a tool that will aid in the removal of these so-called 
> easy links?
>
> -- 
> Steve Palincsar
> Alexandria, Virginia 
> USA
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Whoah! 1 x 12?????

[Brewster Fong]

Come on Man, catch up! Rotor has a 1x13 with its hydraulic drivetrain

https://road.cc/content/tech-news/244867-video-first-look-rotor-1x13-all-you-need-know-about-rotors-latest-hydraulic

Btw, Sram has had 12 speed for what a year and Campy introduce 12 speed 
mechanical this year. 

The best thing about 11 speed is you can mix and match! All 11 speeds are 
compatible with each other so I run Sram etap 11 drivetrain with Campy 11 
wheelset. Shifts perfectly!

Of course, YMMV! 

Good Luck!

On Wednesday, November 7, 2018 at 3:36:53 PM UTC-8, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> The industry has gone to 12 now?
>
> They have a 1 x 12 on an Atlantis. Far out!.
>
>
> I also wonder if, with the existing 11 and 12 cogset setups if you are 
> tied in to a certain manufacturer, component-wise, like with indexing.
>

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[RBW] Re: About a crash a Riv could have prevented

[Brewster Fong]

Agree, one thing I've learn is you can't "force" bikes onto people. They 
have to figure it out for themselves. Now, if they are interested in your 
bike, then go for it. 

Once, I had just built up an old litespeed ti frameset that I got cheap. It 
had 25mm tires and fenders and a bunch of mix Campy/Shimano parts I had 
laying around - basically a mutt bike. But, it is a nice riding bike that I 
now use as my commuter. One day, my boss saw my bike and she said - Wow, I 
bet you spent $500 for your bikeI told her I spent a little more. She 
just looked at me and I could see her amazement that anyone would spend 
more, let alone $1.6Kin other words, people who don't ride have no idea 
what a bike costs or the difference between a $200 target bike or a $2000 
Rivendell.
\
Further, I agree that the rider may have crashed whether she had the disc 
brake bike or a Riv.  

Of course, YMMV! Good Luck!

On Thursday, November 1, 2018 at 12:48:23 PM UTC-7, Daniel D. wrote:
>
> Sounds like a terrible idea,  don't be "that guy".  There are plenty of 
> good bikes out there besides riv.  Doesn't matter the bike, new riders are 
> going to crash sometimes...
> On Thursday, November 1, 2018 at 12:10:38 PM UTC-7, Ash wrote:
>>
>>
>> In future if I hear about someone shopping for a bike, I'll be sure to 
>> insert myself firmly into the process (even if it will annoy them) and try 
>> harder make them get a Riv. 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Finding out how a Bike's Performance Changes with Changes to Components

[Brewster Fong]

On Sunday, October 28, 2018 at 4:22:42 AM UTC-7, Steve Cole wrote:
>
> So my question is what can the bike industry do to help cyclists better 
> understand the component choices they have and the effects on riding will 
> be with different components?  
>

Lol, there is or use to be a place where cyclists could go to get help 
understanding component choices - a bike shop. However, where shops have 
moved to "concept stores" or  the internet has force shops to carry the 
bare minimum of stock, unfortunately, most shops are not very helpful, 
especially for ibob/Riv related components. 

May be contact Riv to see if they have a dealer near you who could assist 
or at least answer questions. 

I know, Good Luck!

>
> Sorry for running on so long.
>
> Steve Cole
> Arlington, Virginia
>

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[RBW] Re: What do Rivendell Riders use for a floor bike stand?

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, September 19, 2018 at 12:45:22 PM UTC-7, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
> Just a simple floor bike stand to park the bike in. Holds back wheel type 
> thing. Roll in, roll out.
>
> I have one of those 2-tier leaning-on-wall bike racks but lifting a 27.5 
> lb.  bike overhead every day up to the rack top hangers is a back or neck 
> injury waiting to happen.
> So I want to park the second bike on the floor. No other space in garage. 
> Either on top teir or on floor next to other bike in a floor stand.
> Just a simple floor stand like one of those that you park in by the back 
> wheel on the floor.
> Thanks for the info.
>

I have the Nitto workstand that Riv use to sell for like $40 many years 
ago. It looks like this one:

 

Riv hasn't carried it in a long time and I don't know if it is still 
available (perhaps Jitensha or Alex Cycles), but it's collapses and folds 
down nicely. Otherwise, I also have a stand now know as Feedback Sports 
(formerly Ultimate or something like that).

Good Luck!

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Re: [RBW] Jobst on 650b?

[Brewster Fong]

My favorite is his gearing. I believe he had something like a 52/47 
chainrings upfront and like 13-24 in the rear. In his "later years" he put 
on a 13-26. So on all those wonderful alpine climbs he did, Jobst basically 
grinded up standing in his 47x26 gearing. But I understand that was his 
style. He wasn't the fastest up, but he got there. When he was on 
rec.bicycles.tech, he basically chew people out for people trying to 
challenge his findings without any evidence to support their claims. I miss 
those days


On Friday, September 14, 2018 at 9:19:48 AM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> John: see: 
>
> https://www.trentobike.org/byauthor/JobstBrandt.html
>
> https://yarchive.net/bike/index.html
>
> Etc.
>
> Somewhere online Jobst described his history of alpine touring, starting 
> shortly after WW II (wooden rims, tubulars). For ~50 years he toured the 
> alps, paved and dirt, dry and wet, on a road bike with 5 or 6 speed 
> freewheels, Carradice saddlebag, toe clips/straps; fenders and racks were 
> as foreign to him, apparently, as electric assist.
>
>
> On Thu, Sep 13, 2018 at 9:58 PM, Lum Gim Fong  > wrote:
>
>> I am interested to know what mega milers like him think about use of 
>> racks, fenders, luggage,  and lighting, since they have that stuff all 
>> worked out.
>>
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>
>
>
> -- 
> Resumes, LinkedIn profiles, bios, and letters that get interviews.
> By-the-hour resume and LinkedIn coaching.
> Other professional writing services.
> http://www.resumespecialties.com/
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, New Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique
> **
> **
> *Auditis an me ludit amabilis insania?*
>

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Re: [RBW] Jobst on 650b?

[Brewster Fong]

On Thursday, September 13, 2018 at 10:14:11 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> There is no "like him". Jobst was a cantankerous fellow who rode hard and 
> didn't think much of things like road conditions or exhaustion. 


Agree, you need to do a search for his annual Europe trips. He had a 
checklist of things he would pack. Here's a few iconic pictures of him 
riding:

 

With some guy named Tom Ritchey.

[image: Tom Ritchey: A Tribute to Jobst]

A local ride

[image: 
https://us.ritcheylogic.com/media/magefan_blog/2015/05/3-peterjobstalpinerd1988800.jpg]

Jobst was direct, opinonated and didn't suffer fools gladly.  But he was 
smart and used his engineering skills (formerly worked for Porsche and HP) 
to help develop basically all of Avocet products and wrote the Bicycle 
Wheel book.  Good Luck!

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Re: [RBW] Jobst on 650b?

[Brewster Fong]

Yup, Jobst was before the 650b (584mm) craze. He developed the Avocet 
Fasgrip 700x28 (28-622) clincher and had the best cornering shot ever!


Good Luck! 

On Wednesday, September 12, 2018 at 4:03:56 PM UTC-7, William deRosset 
wrote:
>
> Dear Patrick,
>
> Jobst was an early and vocal proponent of 28-622 clinchers, specifically 
> the nicer slick-tire Avocets. Once those came available (he was involved in 
> their testing and promotion), he was no longer riding (wider) tubulars and 
> advocated for the continuation of the MA-2 rim extrusions, full 
> ferrules/eyelets, and 36° 3X builds for 700C sporting use (he recommended 
> 32° for 559 rims). I don't know where he would have landed on the current 
> wide-tire movement/craze. He also had a reductionist approach (if it cannot 
> be measured conveniently it doesn't exist) and was a cranky-sounding dude 
> in his online persona.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Will
> William M. deRosset
> Fort Collins, CO
>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: silver crankset questions

[Brewster Fong]

This is interesting. Last Saturday, I caught up with a rider on a climb out 
of Muir Beach and he was riding one of the latest carbon wonder bikes - a 
3T.  Yes, the same company that makes those stems and handlebars now makes 
framesets!  Apparently, 3T thing is to offer a 1x drivetrain. They claim 
you can save something like 400 grams over a normal double drivetrain. 
Whatever.

When I caught up with the guy, I asked him about using the 1x drivetrain on 
the road. I know it is becoming the big deal off-road, but I hear/read 
people blast it for road riding. This guy said he loved it!  He had a 42t 
chainring and a 10x42 11 speed rear cassette. He told me that although he 
was out of shape, when he gets "in-shape" he's going to swap the 42t out 
for a 46t?!  Yow, 46x10 high gear?!  Since I was on my Trek Madone with 
etap, I'm wondering if he said that to show me that he's not a "poser..."  
Lol!  

Personally, whatever works for you is what's right. A lot of my friends 
have switched not only to a "compact" crankset 50/34, but have also gone to 
an 11-32 11 speed cassette in the rear. So much for being "racers!"

Good Luck!  



On Monday, August 20, 2018 at 4:10:42 PM UTC-7, Benz, Sunnyvale, CA wrote:
>
> The guard sold with the Silver Wide/Low crank should support up to a 40T 
> chainring. Even with a 40T big ring, the jump to/from a 24T small ring is 
> still 16T, which is usually the recommended max spread (e.g., 50/34). 
>
> As for whether a 38T big ring is enough, you need to figure that for 
> yourself. You need to consider both the physical as well as the mental 
> aspects of this question. 
>
> For example, my 26” wheeled Atlantis has a 40x12 tall gear, and I spin out 
> easily on the local hilly terrain. I’ve thought about changing it out for a 
> bigger gear, but I’ve since learned to coast contentedly, meaning I learned 
> to let go of trying to be the “Fastest possible downhill”, at least on my 
> Atlantis. 
>
> It’s also funny going to my Atlantis from my other higher geared bikes, 
> because I feel like Superman spinning up its biggest gear. Of course I’m 
> going significant slower but it’s still nice to feel the downtube shifter 
> clunk into the highest gear on the flats.

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[RBW] Re: TdF pros are using oversize rear derailer pulleys. Should you? Or, trickle... up? Cycle technology

[Brewster Fong]

When did Grant come up with this idea?  Large pulleys have been around 
since at least 2013 and possibly earlier:

https://www.bikeradar.com/us/gear/article/friction-facts-bigger-pulleys-really-are-more-efficient-37615/

Good Luck! 

On Sunday, August 5, 2018 at 3:18:34 PM UTC-7, ian m wrote:
>
>
> 
>
> Does this make the Altus like the best kept secret in racing tech of the 
> century?
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: MIT Roadeo coming?

[Brewster Fong]

Niobium tubing is Chinese-made tubing that I think Ritchey uses on its 
steel frames:

http://www.firmetal.com/niobium/niobium-tube-pipe.html

After all, weren't people asking what is Kaisei tubing just a few years 
ago?!  Of course, Kaisei tubing use to be known as Ishiwata tubing which is 
good stuff!  

Good Luck!

On Friday, August 3, 2018 at 10:39:58 AM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> What the heck is niobium?? I have Oakley shades made of "unobtanium", 
> which sounds about as legit. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: MIT Roadeo coming?

[Brewster Fong]

https://alexscycle.com/collections/randonneur-frames/products/rivendell-rambouillet-frame-front-fork-1

On Friday, August 3, 2018 at 7:39:16 AM UTC-7, Fullylugged wrote:
>
> Alex cycles has new Rams made with niobium tubing in blue and green in 50, 
> 52, and 56 sizes for $1,625 plus shipping (frameset).  Good deal for those 
> wanting them. I think supply is very limited. 
>
> Sent from my iPhone 
>
> > On Aug 3, 2018, at 8:56 AM, 'Tim' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com > wrote: 
> > 
> > Christopher, what do you mean that it's still possible to get a new Ram 
> from Japan? Is there NOS out there? Nothing I have read or heard would lead 
> me to believe that there are new Ramboullets coming out of Japan. This 
> would not be the first time I've not known what I'm talking about. 
> > 
> > -- 
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[RBW] Re: MIT Roadeo coming?

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, July 31, 2018 at 6:03:15 AM UTC-7, Lum Gim Fong wrote:
>
>  Although the Roadini is probably the best engineered bike on earth right 
> now. 
>

Can you explain what makes the Roadini the *best engineered bike on earth* 
right now?!  It looks like a regular tig-welded frame with a fancy seat 
lug?!  

Thanks.

>
>

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[RBW] Re: MIT Roadeo coming?

[Brewster Fong]

Is this a good comparison?!  Doesn't the Roadeo have lugs at all joints? 
This roadini thing looks mainly tig-welded except for the seat lug which 
looks...well, different. 

I'm not against bikes made in Taiwan, as Maxway and Giant (mainly carbon) 
make good stuff. But this doesn't appear to be a good comparison.  Is there 
something else?

Good Luck! 

On Tuesday, July 31, 2018 at 4:22:59 AM UTC-7, Belopsky wrote:
>
> It's already out. https://www.rivbike.com/products/roadini
>

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[RBW] Re: Do you think MUSA-RIVbike used sale values will change due to the current non-MUSA production bikes?

[Brewster Fong]

What I would be concerned about is offering less features like lugs. For 
me, Rivendells have always been well made and have nice lugs. However, I 
haven't been on the site in a while, but notice that some of the new frames 
are now TIG-welded or have very simple lugs?!  Really?!  That's like BMW 
making their 1 Series cars front wheel drivebut I digress. So not 
having nice lugs would be more a deal breaker than whether the frames was 
made by Waterford, Toyo or Taiwan (Maxway?).  

Btw, MIT is not all bad. My local LBS (A Bicycle Odyssey in Sausalito) is 
having a big sale on all its frames right now and they carry an interesting 
Taiwanese frameset from a company called Rikulau.  They make a Reynolds 953 
and 931 stainless steel framesets that are really nice. If I didn't 
recently buy a used Della Santa, I would be very tempted. 

Also, for those who are not paranoid, some of the best carbon framesets are 
also made in Taiwan. Giant makes carbon frames for just about everyone on 
the planet. They're one of the leaders in carbon fiber design.  So MIT 
should be a concern, more about what features are being offered.
 
Good Luck! 

On Saturday, July 28, 2018 at 11:28:33 AM UTC-7, Lum Gim Fong wrote

> This is just something I was pondering as I was commuting today.
> Thought it might make an interesting discussion.
>
> From what I understood before, the order went Wisconsin $- Toyo 
> -Taiwan $$$, even though I think Riv stated in their writings that all 
> were made just as well. Although there were diffs in features and labor 
> that would make a MUSARIV more $$ than a Toyo in some instances.
>
> Now that runs of Taiwan made models are coming out of previously MUSA 
> models, do you think that will increase or decrease used sale values of the 
> MUSA and Toyo Rivs?
>
> I don't own a MUSA Rivbike but was just wondering.
> I have a Toyo and Taiwan frames.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Outside article on CF

[Brewster Fong]

Joe,

I have a Calfee and rode it exclusively for about 20 years with no 
problems. It came with a kestrel carbon fork which has a steel steerer 
tube. Not light, but really strong. As you know, I'm not a lightweight, so 
I've had no problems with the Calfee over those years. Just recently picked 
up a used Trek Madone 700 and the carbon is super thin compared to the 
Calfee. Don't know if this is going to last 20 years, but so far, it rides 
great, especially with the Sram etap ;) 

But really the leaders in carbon today can be found in some American 
builders like Calfee, Crumpton, Parlee, Appleman, and a few others.  But 
those are expensive as a frame starts at around $3000 and can easily go 
over $5000.  For mass production, Taiwan is the leader and Giant is 
arguably the best. They basically build frames for just about everyone you 
can think of.  One guy in our group just bought a fancy Canyon bike with 
ultegra di2 and disc brakes. Very nice, but that frame is build by Giant.  
It is solid, yet light (16+lb range).  The complete bike is like $4000.

Around the SF Bay Area, if you look at all the big group rides, I would say 
90-95%+ are on carbon. Of course, nobody has saddle bags, racks, fenders or 
anything like that and the most mileage is probably 80 or less on each 
ride.  Then you see the Randonneur guys and they all seem to be on steel 
with racks and bags. Those guys do lots of miles and some are really fast  

But carbon isn't for everyone. For those who are paranoid, I say stay far 
away from it! My latest bike will be a used Della Santa I just picked up. 
It is made of Dedacciai (sp?) zero steel tubing and feels really light. 
With some lightweight Campy parts (yes carbon), it should build up to a 
nice 18+ lb. bike. I'm expecting a fun ride! 

Of course, YMMV! 

Good Luck! 


On Thursday, July 26, 2018 at 11:51:56 PM UTC-7, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Sure, but the steel trust has been built up over a century. As it stands 
> now I would probably trust a Calfee frame because they've been doing it for 
> a couple decades and seem to be pretty good at it (and charge accordingly). 
> But that frame is still going to need a metal fork for me. I know what 
> carbon looks like when it shatters on a Formula One car and I ain't going 
> there. 

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Re: [RBW] Thanks Grant

[Brewster Fong]

No way!  If you really want a "religious war" then it's got to be 
*clinchers versus tubulars?!*  

Good Luck!

Brewster

On Tuesday, July 3, 2018 at 2:01:32 PM UTC-7, Rod Holland wrote:
>
> Helmets next?
>
> rod
>
> On Tuesday, July 3, 2018 at 4:51:49 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>> Friction shifting sucks! Ok it doesn't really suck, but my old man ears 
>> can't hear when I'm between shifts anymore. Clickety clack!
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Other annoying threads

[Brewster Fong]

On Friday, June 22, 2018 at 11:42:20 AM UTC-7, lconley wrote:
>
> Every time you change the battery in an electric car, you have a 
> relatively large backward step (increase in carbon footprint). Batteries 
> are expensive because they consume a lot of energy to manufacture. The 
> longer that battery lasts, the smaller your carbon footprint so take care 
> of your battery if you want to minimize your carbon footprint. As 
> technology marches forward, especially battery technology, the smaller the 
> overall carbon footprint for electric cars will get. Gasoline engines have 
> been continually developed for the last 120+ years and have a lot of 
> infrastructure in place (gas stations etc.). Electric car technology kind 
> of ground to a halt ~100 years ago and only in the last 20 or so has really 
> picked back up. The electric cars 20 years from now will be way, way better 
> than the ones they have now. The current Chevy Bolt (238 mile range) 
> already makes the current Nissan Leaf (151 mile range) look stone age by 
> comparison. The technology gets better every year. Once there are more 
> recharging stations, it will be easier to travel intercity by electric car. 
>

My Tesla-phile friends rave about Tesla and its 300+ mile range.  They also 
rave about Tesla's supercharging network and how you can now drive a Tesla 
across the country. They blast existing car companies too. But I remind 
them that car companies have established networks of dealerships and can 
easily put in charging stations on their property similar to what Tesla has 
done.  So the question is how long will it take?  All the major car 
companies will be rolling out their EVs in the next 5 years. The high end 
will be very crowded and it will only trickle down to the masses. These are 
interesting times.

In the meantime, I'm happy to drive my 2014 Prius with its almost 20 year 
old hybrid technology using Nimh batteries instead of the latest lthion-ion 
batteries found in today's EVs.  Or, I just jump into my 1990 BMW 535i with 
its "big six" gas hog eating engine and enjoy the 5 speed manual 
transmission!  

Bike content - fortunately, I commute to work on a bicycle! 
 

> One interesting aspect of commuting by electric car and charging at night 
> is that the extra load on the electric grid at night usually helps the 
> electric grid be more efficient. Generators are more efficient when fully 
> loaded than partially loaded.
>
> The other day when I parked in the low emitting and fuel efficient parking 
> spot at work, there was a guy parking a Harley in another one of the spots. 
> Being the annoying engineer that I am, I had to point out that he did not 
> qualify, he was fuel efficient, but not low emitting. He predictably got 
> very annoyed and claimed that fuel efficient and low emitting were the same 
> thing, but they are not, at least not in Florida. Motorcycles do not have 
> catalytic converters or evaporative emissions controls in Florida, not sure 
> about other states, especially California. Motorcycles and scooters pollute 
> all day and all night even when they are not running by letting their 
> hydrocarbon fuels evaporate directly into the air. I read somewhere that a 
> motorcycle puts out ten times the pollution of a modern car. Due to the 
> small number of motorcycles and scooters, they are not a big part of the 
> overall air pollution, so they have almost no regulations. So, while you 
> may feel holier than thou sitting beside the SUV on your Vespa - you do 
> have a smaller carbon foot print, there is a good chance that you are 
> polluting the air more.
>

In San Francisco, e-bikes, e-scooters (Scoot!) and my favorite 
e-skateboards are everywhere!  I especially like climbing up our hills and 
seeing guys fly up the hill on their e-skateboards - quiet, fast and they 
look very relax! 

>
> Bicycles put all kind of cars and motorcycles and scooters to shame, but 
> unless you exhale through a carbon capture device, your carbon foot print 
> is still not zero.
>

Whatever, you're going to have a "carbon foot print" sitting at home 
watching the game on the couch too. So that's a given! 

>
> Geeking out on technology again.
>
> Owning ten Rivs is probably not all that green.
>

I don't know any Rivs, but I do have 2 steel frame bikes and 2 carbon bikes 
- ah!

Good Luck!  

>
> Laing
>
>
> On Friday, June 22, 2018 at 12:55:22 PM UTC-4, masmojo wrote:
>
>> I read somewhere that the Prius is now the #1 car for owner retention. At 
>> the time I read that the average Prius owner was going in 11 years & 
>> counting!
>> Now, I  realize that Prius are technically hybirds, but the fact is that 
>> mechanically there's  far less involved with an electric car then a petrol 
>> powered car or even a hybrid. So, long term electric car owners should be 
>> able to get massive numbers of miles out of their vehicles and aside from 
>> the eventual battery change, service should be cheaper as well.
>> Point 

[RBW] Re: Truss-frame Atlantis!

[Brewster Fong]

Come on, if you want a "truss" frame, nothing beats the Kirk Magnesium for 
ugliness!  Good Luck!



On Monday, April 30, 2018 at 4:07:08 PM UTC-7, Garth wrote:
>
>
> If you're gonna do curvy tubes and all  something like this looks very 
>> sweet !  Ye' ol" ever new again .  A Schwinn ...
>
>
> The impression of the one long continuous curving tub from rear dropout to 
> head tube really "flows" .  
>
> I'm not saying to make it just like this, rather to look at the endless 
> possibilities of coolness :)   
>
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
>
>  
>

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Re: [RBW] Chroming a Rivendell?

[Brewster Fong]

Agree, besides the cost, there's the maintenance. Yes, chrome does require 
some upkeep. I recently bought a used Ron Cooper bike with chrome fork. The 
chrome fork probably isn't original, but it had a nice layer of rust on it. 
Using a stainless scrubber, I was able to remove most of the rust without 
damaging the chrome.  But, there's still some pitting that can't be 
removed. 

So yes, you can do it and if you have the money well, it would be 
different!  However, if you're really going to spend the big $$$s on 
chroming a Riv, then you really should have a custom! Of course, YMMV! Good 
Luck!

On Wednesday, February 21, 2018 at 4:17:44 PM UTC-8, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> You might find someone who will do it cheaper, but if you’re looking for 
> bicycle-quality chrome plating, it’s not cheap. Here are Joe Bell’s prices, 
> which include $350 to chrome plate a fork and $500 to plate just the rear 
> stays and dropouts: http://www.joebell.net/pdf/JB_form_09-17_v2.pdf 
>
> Custom plating an entire frame would be prohibitively expensive.
>
> --Eric N
> Twitter/Instagram/YouTube: @CampyOnlyGuy
>
> On Feb 21, 2018, at 3:41 PM, Lum Gim Fong  > wrote:
>
> Anyone chromed their 'dell upon need for a repaint?
>
> Any downsides to chroming? Is it expensive?
>
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[RBW] Re: Have a Sub 20lb Roadeo?

[Brewster Fong]

I agree in part. A Roadeo is currently listed at $2600 for the frameset, 
although if you read the text, it is listed at $2250, so maybe the price 
increased.  However, they only have like a 63cm in stock and I'm not sure 
what their eta for new ones are.

So what else can you get for $2600?  Well the 2018 Trek Emonda SLR frameset 
price has actually gone down, I believe it is now made in Taiwan (Giant?) 
instead of Wisconsin, to about $3000:

https://www.trekbicyclesuperstore.com/product/trek-emonda-slr-frameset-305218-1.htm

However, there are other steel builders out there who are cheaper like 
Roland Della Santa who I believe charges between $2000-2500, but you get 
what he wants to build.

Anyways, Roadeo is a good choice for those who like it. Good Luck!

On Friday, February 9, 2018 at 12:41:39 PM UTC-8, Ryan Merrill wrote:
>
> You could get a vintage race bike, but then you are buying a used bike 
> that may or may not be in your size, or your preferred color, and have 
> wacky wheel spacing, or take weird sized seat posts, ect. 
>
> My Roadeo never rode like a vintage race bike. It wasn't near as 
> twitchy...that's really the best way I can describe the difference that 
> I've felt. It's quite a nice riding bike but I felt like it was unlike 
> other race bikes I've ridden. 
>
> I consider the Roadeo a high end road bike frameset, and if you compare it 
> price wise against other high end road bike framesets it's price, even the 
> current price, isn't that far off. What's the price of a new Trek Emonda 
> SLR frameset go for nowadays?  
>
> but still, since I purchased my Roadeo frame, which I did wind up selling 
> because I don't road ride anymore, the price has gone up six hundred bucks. 
>
> On Friday, February 9, 2018 at 1:12:57 PM UTC-6, Davey Two Shoes wrote:
>
>> I think the real problem here is the Roadeo is simply outclassed in it's 
>> price bracket. You could easily get a custom geo steel road bike with a 
>> carbon fork fork less. If the plan is a lightweight steel build I'd say 
>> there are way better choices for your money.  
>>
>> If lugs are the the desire, why not get a vintage race bike?
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Un-un-racing update: My first ever mountain bike race

[Brewster Fong]

This kind of happened to a friend of mine. He went down to the Sea Otter 
Classic one year and wanted to ride the course. However, he found that the 
"fun" ride was more expensive the entering a race/!  So he entered as a 
racer and figured he sit in the back and enjoy the sights. Well, he 
finished something like 27th out of who knows how many!  He did say it was 
fun and he got to ride the course!  Good Luck! 


On Sunday, February 4, 2018 at 7:37:06 PM UTC-8, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>
> 
> I'm a pretty devout unracer.  One of my un-unracing activities is I'm the 
> volunteer team mechanic for the El Cerrito High School Mountain bike racing 
> team.  Today's team ride was a non-league race.  It was open to the public 
> and the kids urged me to sign up.  So, I did my first ever mountain bike 
> race.  I entered the Sport category, which might have been above my skill 
> level, but whatever.  The weather was perfect down in Fort Ord, Monterrey.  
> It was pretty exciting to be in a real racing environment.  Other fellas in 
> the 45-54 age group tended to gain time on me in the technical turns and 
> such and the descents, but I was pleased at the ground I'd make up on the 
> climbs.  I was not last in the Sport 45-54, but was close. I think the kids 
> all enjoyed that I got after it. Anyway, it was a memorable day on the 
> bike, and it happened to be a day on the bike that demanded hydraulic disc 
> brakes and through-axles and front suspension.  There's no way I could have 
> used a Rivendell, even a hypothetical fantasy Rivendell.  The fact is, 
> there are bikes out there for most tasks.  Sometimes it's fine to just use 
> the right bike for the task and enjoy the ride.
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
>  
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Have a Sub 20lb Roadeo?

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, January 31, 2018 at 11:01:14 AM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
>
> On 01/31/2018 12:34 PM, Brewster Fong wrote:
>
> I think the "advantage" of a threadless headset is in the adjustment. 
> Throw in a face plate stem and you can easily swap stems and bars. But 
> really, how many people do that?  So again, it comes back to adjustment. 
> Threadless is so simple and requires what a 5mm hex wrench?! 
>
>
> And yet, many times I've encountered riders on a club ride who had loose 
> headsets -- threadless in all but one case (and he was screwing around with 
> the headset the night before, didn't adjust it right and left the wrench in 
> the car -- and this as we were about 2 hrs into a 4 day tour in South 
> Dakota!) -- and not one of those riders with threadless headsets had any 
> idea how to adjust their headset.  Not a one.  Being a threaded headset 
> user, I have no idea either, so we'ved asked around and *not one single 
> person on the entire club ride* -- and they themselves all had threadless 
> headsets -- *ever* had any idea how to adjust one.
>

So let me get this straight. A guy is about to go on a four day tour and 
the night before he decides to "screw around" with the threadless headset. 
However, he has no idea what he's doing and then a couple of hours into the 
ride, the headset comes loose and he has no idea how to adjust it nor does 
he have a 5mm to fix it?!  Wow. I agree in that scenario, there is no 
advantage. I guess the advantage would be to a threaded headset as he would 
need two specific tools (32mm or 36mm) to adjust it.  In that case, the 
threaded headset would probably keep him from being tempted to "screw 
around" with the headset the night before a big ride.  Unbelievable  

>
> So in my book, although there's unquestionably a theoretical advantage 
> there, in practice it's meaningless since nobody seems to know how to do it.
>

In your scenario, where no one knows how to work on a threadless headset, I 
agree! But adjusting a threadless headset really isn't that hard and a lot 
easier than a threaded headset.

Of course, as you shown in your example, YMMV! 

Good Luck!  

>
> -- 
> Steve Palincsar
> Alexandria, Virginia 
> USA
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Have a Sub 20lb Roadeo?

[Brewster Fong]

I think the "advantage" of a threadless headset is in the adjustment. Throw 
in a face plate stem and you can easily swap stems and bars. But really, 
how many people do that?  So again, it comes back to adjustment. Threadless 
is so simple and requires what a 5mm hex wrench?! 

As for your question as to whether carbon wheels are "dumb?"  Depends on 
what you want. One reason why tubular tires are so popular again is that 
with a carbon rim wheelset, you can get a total wheelset under 1200g and 
1000g is not unreasonable!  In contrast, a standard wheelset is around 
1700g or so and carbon clincher wheelsets are around 1400-1500g.  So for 
the weight weenies, a tubular carbon wheelset can save as much as a pound.

On Wednesday, January 31, 2018 at 12:38:11 AM UTC-8, ted wrote:
>
> If you want the bar height a Nitto Technomic gives threadless is not 
> appealing, so I don't think thats a reasonable stem to do the weight 
> comparison with. 
> I have a Nitto Pearl stem (11cm extension 26.0 clamp) that I weighed at 
> 346gr. That's ~.35lb more than your 189gr for the Bontrager race lite. The 
> threadless headset saves a few grams but you should also add for the star 
> nut, top cap, and several cm of steerer tube.
> I seriously doubt that is going to add up to an additional .15lb savings 
> over the straight stem comparison.
> Looking at quoted weights for Campi headsets on the Bens Cycles web site I 
> come up with a 6gr savings for the threadless over the threaded version. I 
> bet a star nut and top cap weigh more than that.
>
> I would never argue with somebody who prefers the aesthetics and easy 
> height adjustability of a quill stem over the weight savings of a 
> threadless set up.
>
> On Tuesday, January 30, 2018 at 6:33:39 AM UTC-8, RJM wrote:
>>
>> Factoring in the headset weight differences and the weight differences 
>> between a Nitto Technomic 427g vs. a Bontrager race lite 189g road stem 
>> (just pulling these out of thin air) you might see a half pound difference. 
>> But, there is something about the classic styling of a nice quill stem on a 
>> roadeo that really sets it off. Plus, if you were going to be a weight 
>> weenie, I don't think you would be choosing a steel frame anyway. 
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, January 27, 2018 at 12:50:57 PM UTC-6, JohnS wrote:
>>
>>> Isn't it still true that you can save 1/2 pound with a threadless 
>>> steerer tube? Seems like that would help with getting to sub 20lbs. That's 
>>> what I would prefer to have on my Roadeo, someday
>>>
>>> JohnS
>>>
>>>
>>> On Friday, January 26, 2018 at 1:52:55 PM UTC-5, LBleriot wrote:

 Without the B17 and enormously heavy Crane bell, this gets pretty close 
 20 lbs.

 On Thursday, January 25, 2018 at 6:21:48 PM UTC-5, lum gim fong wrote:
>
> Reading Grant interview where he was saying they were shooting for 
> sub-20 wihen they developed  the Roadeo and was wondering if anyone here 
> has realized this on their Roadeo.



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[RBW] Re: Seeking opinions on 11 speed roadie setup

[Brewster Fong]

I run 9 speed cassette on 2 bikes, 7 speed fw on another an 11 speed on my 
go-fast. I'm not sure what the "advantages" are, if any, of going to 11. 
Well, I guess if you like closer range of the cogs, there's more of them, 
so that's good. You can also find stuff that may not be available in 8 or 9 
speed like replacement parts.  For example, if that 8 speed STI shifters 
break, you may not be able to replace it. Same if 9 speed STI. Campy is a 
little better as you can rebuild them and small parts are available.

Further, if you're currently running 8/9 speed Shimano, you will probably 
need a new wheel to accommodate 11 speed. So you're looking at new 
shifters, RD, rear wheel and a chain.  So, if money isn't an issue, I say 
go for it. But at that point, it might be more cost effective to just get 
another bike.  So it comes down to how much do you want to spend.  I will 
say that e-shifting is pretty nice as you just tap the lever and it goes. 
Is it worth the extra $$$? Probably not as the latest mechanical shifting 
like DA 9000 is super smooth and amazing.  Still, it is a novelty and I 
hear that for cross "racers" they all inof course, YMMV!  Good Luck! 

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 12:28:49 PM UTC-8, Jeffrey Arita wrote:
>
> Hi Paul,
>
> I too have the itch.  I am the original owner of a Merlin Extralight ('95 
> vintage).  I originally spec'd it with 8-speed Dura-Ace, early brifters.  
> After awhile running the 8-speed drivetrain I converted the crank to a 
> triple, using a 39-tooth 'tripleizer' along with a wider bb.  Run 
> 53-39-26.  Then I got a real 'job' and stopped cycling altogether.fast 
> forward to 2011, I started cycling again (thank goodness).  I converted the 
> cogset to a 9-speed and installed 9-speed bar-cons.  Still run the 53-39-26 
> crankset.
>
> Present Day: Boy that 11-speed cogset sure would be cool to run, along 
> with a NEW wheelset, right?  But that would mean new shifters and perhaps a 
> new rear derailleur.  One part of me says 'go for it' while the rational 
> side of me says it won't make a huge difference.  I am sticking to my 
> rational side for now ;)
>
> Maybe check out a larger big chainring on your existing crank?  Increase 
> your top-end?
>
> Good luck,
>
> Jeff
>
> On Sunday, January 14, 2018 at 12:24:44 AM UTC-8, Paul Y wrote:
>>
>> Hi all,
>>
>> Looking for opinions and perspective s before scratching an itch!
>>
>> I've been riding my Roadeo with a dura ace 7400 double crank (38 and 48t) 
>> with a Sora 8 speed 11-25 cassette, Shimano bar ends (9 speed but running 
>> friction) and an older XT rapid rise rear derailer.
>>
>> The gearing is pretty good for me - it's enough to manage 10 deg climbs 
>> and truck along around 35 kph.
>>
>> I've been riding the Roadeo like a typical club rider might, generally 
>> without fenders and wearing lycra, though I haven't actually been riding 
>> with a club! The plan is to ride a few audaxes this year though.
>>
>> I'm tempted to change to a new Shimano 105 5800 drivetrain (11 speed) and 
>> brifters, which should go on easily as I already have a 105 11-speed hub.
>>
>> I love the robustness of the current setup but always looking for ways to 
>> get more speed ( and I'm constantly training / trying to build strength).
>>
>> Has anyone else transitioned their bike similarly? As in, going from Riv 
>> values to modern racy (meshed with steel and larger tires)? I still have a 
>> Sam setup as a practical bicycle so I guess that leaves me freedom to 
>> embody another cycling personality.
>>
>> Thanks for reading, and hopefully sharing your feelings on this.
>>
>> Paul
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Seeking opinions on 11 speed roadie setup

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, January 16, 2018 at 9:14:58 AM UTC-8, Belopsky wrote:
>
> Campy 11/Shimano 11 are interchangeable as far as:
> Campy 11 drivetrain w/ Shimano 11speed cassette or vice-versa
>

Agree. I'm using Sram etap with Campy 11 cassette/wheel and it works 
perfectly. 

But is there a way it doesn't work?   

Good Luck!

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[RBW] Re: Seeking opinions on 11 speed roadie setup

[Brewster Fong]

Haha, as other have said, if you want more "speed" going to 11 isn't really 
going to do it. Fitness is the key. Nevertheless, if you need to go to 11 
speed, why stop at 105?! Yes, a 105 groupo is relatively cheap - under $500:

https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-105-5800-11-speed-groupset-black-72462.html

But if you really want to upgrade, go e-shifting!  You will pay twice as 
much or more (ultegra di2 groups can be found around $1000, etap $1300 or 
more), but the one thing you can get with 11 speed or even 10 is wide range 
gearing. You need 11-32? No problem - Campy, Shimano and Sram all have it.  
You need more? Well, you can easily find 11-40/42/46 and there's even an 
11-50 option! 

https://factoryjackson.com/2017/04/19/sunrace-mx80-11-50-11-speed-cassette/

So, upgrade if you must, but only fitness is going to get you faster. Good 
Luck!

On Sunday, January 14, 2018 at 12:24:44 AM UTC-8, Paul Y wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> Looking for opinions and perspective s before scratching an itch!
>
> I've been riding my Roadeo with a dura ace 7400 double crank (38 and 48t) 
> with a Sora 8 speed 11-25 cassette, Shimano bar ends (9 speed but running 
> friction) and an older XT rapid rise rear derailer.
>
> The gearing is pretty good for me - it's enough to manage 10 deg climbs 
> and truck along around 35 kph.
>
> I've been riding the Roadeo like a typical club rider might, generally 
> without fenders and wearing lycra, though I haven't actually been riding 
> with a club! The plan is to ride a few audaxes this year though.
>
> I'm tempted to change to a new Shimano 105 5800 drivetrain (11 speed) and 
> brifters, which should go on easily as I already have a 105 11-speed hub.
>
> I love the robustness of the current setup but always looking for ways to 
> get more speed ( and I'm constantly training / trying to build strength).
>
> Has anyone else transitioned their bike similarly? As in, going from Riv 
> values to modern racy (meshed with steel and larger tires)? I still have a 
> Sam setup as a practical bicycle so I guess that leaves me freedom to 
> embody another cycling personality.
>
> Thanks for reading, and hopefully sharing your feelings on this.
>
> Paul
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Frank Jones, latest Knothole post

[Brewster Fong]

On Saturday, December 16, 2017 at 4:13:36 PM UTC-8, iamkeith wrote:
>
>
> >"But with long (and slanted!) track ends, why not fixed? What am I 
> missing?"
>
> I had to read it a couple of times to understand, not being a fixed gear 
> rider.  Basically, he's saying there's too much chance of pedal strikes 
> with such a low bottom bracket.  Think corners without the ability to keep 
> your inside pedal elevated
>

Thanks. When I saw the name JONES, I thought this thread was about a Jones 
Bike, like those built by JEFF Jones.  I didn't know or realized that Riv 
is coming out with a "Jones" bike of their own. 

Good to know. So is it going to be lugged or is Riv going tig-welded like 
what they seem to be headed.

Good Luck!

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[RBW] Re: New Lugged Bike Builder of Note

[Brewster Fong]

On Sunday, December 17, 2017 at 7:02:37 AM UTC-8, Addison wrote:
>
> Happy Sunday morning all,
> I shared this on the ibob list but it later occurred to me that I should 
> share it here as well.  A friend of mine has been apprenticing with Roland 
> Della Santa for a few years and has just unveiled his first bike.  He built 
> it for his father for his birthday and it's a stunner.  It's been fun to 
> see Jake work with Roland because he has pushed Roland a bit beyond the 
> Italian race bike model, with some wider clearances and more practical 
> designs.  My last DS was pretty much built by Jake and some of you may have 
> already seen pics of that.  Jake has what I think might be the only lugged, 
> adventure, mountain bike, Roland ever made.
>
> Anyway, here is Barrett #1 with lots of pics.  We had a little event at 
> the Dropout Bikeshop here in Reno for the Reno Rambler Cycling Club to 
> unveil it.  Enjoy!
>
> http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/2017/12/theres-new-sheriff-in-town.html
>

 Very nice! Is Jake taking orders for new framesets or will he still work 
for DS?  

Thanks!

>
>
> Addison Wilhite, M.A. 
>
> Academy of Arts, Careers and Technology 
>  
>
> *“Blazing the Trail to College and Career Success”*
>
> Educator: Professional Portfolio 
>
> Blogger: Reno Rambler 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Jobst ever say why he didn't wear helmet?

[Brewster Fong]

On Thursday, October 5, 2017 at 9:06:52 AM UTC-7, lum gim fong wrote:
>
>
> *Please let's not discuss helmet use.*
> *I'm Just looking for Jobst quotes.*
>
> Just wanted to know if he ever discussed this publicly.
>
> I cannot find any comments by him about it online.
> Anyone here read anything he said on this?
>
> Thanks for any links.
>
> Let's leave this at just links. Thanks.
>

Although I didn't see anything from Jobst about helmets, there are two big 
sources for his quotes/responses to mainly questions in rec.bicycles.tech 
(which I believe is still around!)

The first is Sheldon Brown's Bicycle FAQ by Jobst:
 http://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/index.html

The second is the one cited in the FAQ, Norman Yarvin's yarchive.net:

http://yarchive.net/bike/index.html

The second is broken down by topic and cites who the author is like Jobst.

Good Luck! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Custom bike

[Brewster Fong]

On Thursday, September 7, 2017 at 8:07:58 PM UTC-7, Fullylugged wrote:
>
> And don't forget the Sauron MTB ;)


You mean this one?



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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant Petersen Interview up on the Gravel & Grind website

[Brewster Fong]

On Friday, July 28, 2017 at 12:16:47 PM UTC-7, Jay Connolly wrote:
>
> I was intrigued by this number, as well. I heard an interview with Grant 
> somewhere in which he expressed reluctance to excite the hostile, loveless 
> bike-frame geometers of the interwebs, and I don't blame him. I've owned 15 
> or more steel bikes in the last 20 years, and only on the Rivs have I been 
> able, effortlessly, to ride no hands. I take that as a sign of balance and 
> stability in the bike. I could do it briefly on various other frames, but 
> nothing like the Rivs. Maybe it's meaningless, but I find it both useful 
> and pleasant on long rides.


That's interesting.  Is riding no handed "the test" to show that a bike is 
balanced and stabled?  I bought all of my bikes used and have been able to 
ride no handed on each of them - 90s Calfee tetra, 90s Litespeed Classic 
and my newest bike - 2013 Trek Madone. I run 700x25 tires@80psi on all of 
them.  The Trek has the shortest wheelbase and it took some time to get use 
to the handling as it is quicker than the other two bikes. Otherwise, it is 
fine.

Good to know that my bikes are all balance and stable!

Good Luck!  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Discs versus calipers

[Brewster Fong]

I have to agree that thoughts about parts becoming extinct or hard to find 
is becoming paranoia. Really, quill stems? There's nitto. But don't forget 
that kalloy and sunlite, chinese made stuff, still sell quill stems.  Steel 
forks? Come on, as long as there are steel framebuilders, there will always 
be a way to get a steel fork - custom or not! 

OK, now maybe if you're talking french or rarer Swiss bottom bracket 
threads.  Well, guess what, Phil Wood still offers bb with french and swiss 
threading! Heck, you can get a bb for Raleigh Super Corsa and Chater Lea 
threads too:


   We offer the following bottom bracket cup threadings (all cups are sold 
   as a set and include thread retaining compound): 
   - British (1.370 x 24 tpi, RH/LH thread) in stainless steel and 7075 
   aluminum
   - Italian (36mm x 24 tpi) in stainless steel and 7075 aluminum
   - French (35mm x 1mm) stainless steel
   - Swiss (35mm x 1mm, RH/LH thread) stainless steel
   - Raleigh Super Corsa (1.370 x 26 tpi, RH/LH thread) stainless steel
   - Chater Lea (1.450″ x 26 tpi, RH/LH thread) stainless steel
   - T47 (47 x 1 tpi, RH/LH thread) 7075 aluminum

link:  http://www.philwood.com/products/bbhome.php


Now it may not be cheap, but at least it is still available!  So instead of 
fretting about what may or may not be around in 20 years, I say get out and 
enjoy whatever you got! 

Good Luck!


On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 1:34:12 PM UTC-7, Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
> masmojo said "it's getting hard to replace Rivendell parts".  
>
> Let me know what Rivendell part you are having a hard time finding, and 
> I'll try to help you out.  If you are fretting about hypotheticals, I think 
> that's a little bit unnecessary.  Jones makes awesome bikes.  I don't think 
> it would be productive to fret that you might have to go back to Jones if 
> you damage a Jones truss fork.  I don't think it would be productive 
> criticism to inform Jones that they should stop making truss forks.  
>
> On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 1:16:58 PM UTC-7, masmojo wrote:
>>
>> Bill, part of my concern is also long term viability. As it stands it's 
>> getting very hard to replace Rivendell parts, because they are such throw 
>> backs. For forks you gotta go back to Rivendell or go custom & even custom 
>> might get hard to source at some point. It's doable now, but what about 10 
>> or 15 years down the line?
>> Can I go somewhere else yeah, but I'd rather not.
>> VOs new Polyvalent should be in soon. It'll have low trail, 1 1/8" 
>> steerer & disc brakes! I am afraid I might hafta get one of those, but a 
>> Rosco Bubbe with those features would get my money faster.
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Discs versus calipers

[Brewster Fong]

On Friday, June 23, 2017 at 11:53:11 AM UTC-7, Garth wrote:
>
>
>Then again, I hope Riv never ever makes a disc brake frame.  As 
> been said, there are countless people who will make you a  frame just the 
> way you like it.  
>
>   Also, try demanding a custom frame be designed in a very specific 
> way from any given builder , and questing that builder when they don't want 
> to do it that specific way for *whatever their reasons *, and see how 
> that goes. After all, it's *their business* *and craft*, not yours.   You 
> are free to shop somewhere else. 
>

Agree. I had this exact situation happen to me. Let's just say I tried to 
get a frame built by an established builder with one of the best 
reputation. However, what I wanted was to match modern components - i.e., 
e-shifting with his frame.  Basically, I was asking for a track bike with 
brakes and a RD hanger. He wouldn't do it. We went back and forth and he 
kept talking about building something similar for a guy in the 90s using 
Mavic Zap shifters. When that died, he ended up having to redo the frame to 
add shifter bosses and he swore never to do another one.  

Bottom line - you want something specific, find a builder that will do it! 

>
>Sure, you can have a frame made just like Riv, made to similar 
> specs and ride qualities, but it will never be a Rivendell brand product. 
> Is this so important , a *name* ?   
>
> This reminds me all branding and how we get attached to brand names. 
>
>Yeah , I hope "classic bike" style remains , no disc brakes for these . 
>

Then again, I haven't been following Riv for a while and was kind of 
disappointed that they now offer tig-welded frames?!  That to me is 
disappointing as I love their lugs and there's plenty of tigged frames out 
there. But hey, it's a business and I understand the need.

Good Luck!

>   
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: Rear hub for Atlantis build: WI or PW?

[Brewster Fong]

On Thursday, June 15, 2017 at 8:45:44 PM UTC-7, panog wrote:
>
> If one believes that the XT diiscussion here is purely circumstantial or 
> anecdotal and wants more proof then a basic Google search on the subject 
> would show a lot of unfavorable comments on what XT developed to be. Plain 
> and simple. Most people do not make negative comments on a product if they 
> are not deserved. 
>
> Pano
>
> PS. I am a Shimano man and also prefer cup and cone hubs
>

It may be anecdotal, but many years ago, iboberAlex Wetmore warned of the 
problems with the XT (M770) hubs that have aluminum axles:

There is one major problem with the LHT wheels. *They are using the
FH-M770 rear hub, which has smaller bearings (3/16") than standard
Shimano rear hubs (1/4") and uses aluminum axles with easy to strip
threads. 

I knew about the smaller bearings, but just learned about the aluminum
axle this weekend with a friend visited with a "broken" one. *When he
took it apart in my shop he discovered that the end cap had stripped
the threads in the axle. *I took a photo which you can find here: 

*http://alexandchristine.smugmug.com/Bicycles/Shimano-XT-Aluminum-Axle/10997988_eTAGA#768940509_7GQHt*
 


The axle in the rear is a standard 10mm steel Shimano hub axle. *You
can see that the thread pitch and the height of the threads is the
same on each. He had not adjusted the bearings from the Shimano
factory before having this failure. *I personally think that this is a
silly place to save weight on a touring bike and would recommend LX
hubs over XT ones for touring and commuting wheelsets. *Since the end
cap is also used to preload the bearings it will not be fully threaded
onto the axle. *In this
case it looks like it was being held on with only two or three
threads. I was disappointed to see this "development". 

*XT has almost always been light in smart ways, so that it ends up a
little lighter than LX without giving up any durability. *Now it looks
like LX is the durable group and My heavy duty city/tour wheelset is
built on plain Deores. The bearing feel is phenomenal compared to even
five years ago. The seals are magnificent. They just need a little
touch of the cone wrench out of the box. 


So you have been warnedGood Luck!

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[RBW] Re: On downsizing (and the 1 bike, and 650b)

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, May 31, 2017 at 10:28:03 AM UTC-7, Brian Campbell wrote:
>
> Sell everything but the Sam and buy northing else. Chances are you will be 
> just fine, since the Sam can do all of the riding and eventual kid hauling 
> (Congratulations!) that you will likely do. Set it up with new 
> bars/saddle/rack if you need to.
>
> I have 2 bikes my AHH and a 1989 Trek 950 mountain bike. I have divested 
> myself of bikes in the double digit number range and I love the simplicity 
> of it. If it is not single track riding, AHH. If I am riding trails, Trek.
>
> Swapping wheels, while not complicated is an added complication. When 
> little ones arrive, your "free time" tends to get taken up pretty quickly, 
> completely and often times, unexpectedly. Anything that adds an additional 
> layer of management makes it more complicated than it has to be. It is just 
> one more possible impediment to actually riding when your time is not your 
> own anymore.
>

I don't understand this statement -  "Swapping wheels, while not 
complicated is an added complication."  So you're recommending this guy 
"sell everything" and just ride. I get that. But then what happens if he 
breaks a spoke or something happens to his wheels?!  Shouldn't a 
spare/backup/extra set of wheels be available?!  Otherwise, if something 
happens to his one pair, he's out and can't ride at all?!  

Further, I don't know the OP nor do I know his mechanical abilities, but 
swapping wheels is not complicated nor does it add any kind of 
complication. After all, he has to take off and put on a wheel if he gets a 
flat?! As a single parent having to raise two girls, by myself since they 
were 6 and 8, there were times I couldn't get to the bike. Having a backup 
set of wheels or 3 ;)  was very helpful when I did find time to ride and 
found a broken spoke. Of course, YMMV!  Good Luck! 

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[RBW] Re: On downsizing (and the 1 bike, and 650b)

[Brewster Fong]

I don't understand having only one bike, especially if you commute, tour or 
just ride a lot. I guess if a person is on top of maintenance and things 
don't break, it should work. However, I found that one bike, even with 
several wheelsets isn't enough. I have had things break when I'm ready to 
go out and didn't have time to look at my bike the night before. Unless 
space is an issue, having a second bike provides security by having a 
backup and also some versatility as you can even have more than one type - 
a commuter/tourer/all arounder type bike for everyday use and maybe a 
weekend bike for go-fast rides or off-roading.  

As a roady, my bikes then to lean towards the "go-fast" route and weigh 
between 15 to 19lbs. However, being the "fat guy" in the group, it really 
doesn't matter how light my bikes are as the engine is still weak. But I'm 
working on it.

Otherwise, if you really can't have more than one bike, I agree that two or 
more wheelsets is the way to go! 

Good Luck! 

On Tuesday, May 30, 2017 at 10:45:25 AM UTC-7, drew wrote:
>
> All good advice. While i had considered a set of different tires, a 
> totally different wheelset+tires seems like it would do more to access the 
> bike's versatility in a convenient way. and then i'd have an excuse to 
> experiment with compass tires... interesting. 
>>
>>
> In reality, the sam may be better suited to my actual needs, but i love 
> the hunq more, and i find that touring with a bike leaves me deeply 
> sentimental about our relationship and time together, even if it isnt the 
> most practical in non-touring times. Selling it, i fear, would be almost 
> immediately regrettable. 
>
> ill try to answer some of the questions.
> -my roady friends aren't super roady, but a few have invested in nice 
> carbon or titanium bikes. when we ride, it isnt for speed or time, but i 
> have felt like im slowing them down. 
> -i also have a 1985 trek 870, and a miyata mixte also a 91 stumpjumper 
> frame. none of them are essential or get ridden very much.
>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Save Bruce Gordon Cycles

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 at 2:10:23 PM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> IMHO, Steelman priced himself out of the market. Nice frames that suddenly 
> rocketed into the stratosphere in price while remaining pretty much the 
> same.
>

I believe steelman's prices were similar to Sachs and Vanilla. The 
difference is they have excellent marketing and he didn't. Same goes for 
BG, his prices were the same and quality equal or better than the others, 
but his marketing isn't anywhere near what Sachs and Vanilla developed. 



> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com 
> @CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram)
>
> On May 23, 2017, at 2:06 PM, Brewster Fong <bfd...@gmail.com > 
> wrote:
>
> The boutique custom steel framebuilding business isn't easy. I understand 
> that one of the best, Mark DiNucci gets about $5500 for his framesets but 
> he doesn't have a big wait list. The two steel framebuilders who supposedly 
> have 5+ year wait list and can command top dollar for their framesets, 
> i.e., $5500+ per frameset are Richard Sachs and Sasha White/Vanilla. 
>
> Others like Dave Kirk and Dave Wages/Ellis Cycles don't have as long a 
> waitlist, but are getting about $4000/frameset.  Still are others like 
> Rivendell, who I believe contracts with Mark Nobilette (sp?), and Waterford 
> and they get about $3500+ per frameset.
>
> BG is old school and his framesets go for top dollar too. I just don't 
> think he has much business. Framebuilding is a tough business. Ask Brent 
> Steelman. He was asking $5000+ for his framesets and is now completely out 
> of the business, choosing to sell imported rugs instead and I understand 
> he's doing very well. 
>
> Good Luck! 
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Save Bruce Gordon Cycles

[Brewster Fong]

The boutique custom steel framebuilding business isn't easy. I understand 
that one of the best, Mark DiNucci gets about $5500 for his framesets but 
he doesn't have a big wait list. The two steel framebuilders who supposedly 
have 5+ year wait list and can command top dollar for their framesets, 
i.e., $5500+ per frameset are Richard Sachs and Sasha White/Vanilla. 

Others like Dave Kirk and Dave Wages/Ellis Cycles don't have as long a 
waitlist, but are getting about $4000/frameset.  Still are others like 
Rivendell, who I believe contracts with Mark Nobilette (sp?), and Waterford 
and they get about $3500+ per frameset.

BG is old school and his framesets go for top dollar too. I just don't 
think he has much business. Framebuilding is a tough business. Ask Brent 
Steelman. He was asking $5000+ for his framesets and is now completely out 
of the business, choosing to sell imported rugs instead and I understand 
he's doing very well. 

Good Luck! 

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Re: [RBW] Save Bruce Gordon Cycles

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, May 23, 2017 at 8:28:32 AM UTC-7, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> He’s going to take a potentially valuable bicycle collection to the 
> recycler for scrap? That strikes me as either monumentally stupid or 
> something done in a fit of pique. What’s wrong with selling them?
>

I think the problem is BG expects his bikes to fetch top dollar. I remember 
seeing pictures of his collection 10 years ago and the numerous awards he 
won. But there were a couple of problems with his bikes. First, Bruce is a 
big guy and rides a 61cm or something like that. So that narrows the 
market.  Second, he wants a lot for his bikes. Now, I don't blame him as 
his work is fabulous. But, when you're asking $7k to $10K or more, well the 
market gets really small, especially for steel. Yes, Richard Sachs and 
Sasha White/Vanilla can command $6K/frameset, but they're the exception.   
Here's a few examples of his work:

https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fJhGNCfBn0Y/V1r1UbJBUgI/BLY/ivSDccAWoDgydhkjADq6uT2ws30nZkLRQCLcB/s1600/Picture%2B005.jpg

https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vuHrbMAltWg/V1r1RdbBHVI/BLI/eqaSdrnpDMwCmOFq22ISj8HQXqkK9YE4QCKgB/s1600/jbl_030407_NAHBS_1084.jpg

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_JnO-tW2_nB0/S8jQ9Ig0sHI/AIo/DXJWAmlYM-c/s1600/XA7I0020.JPG

Here are some photos of his collection:

http://urbanvelo.org/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2013/10/IMG_0734.jpg

http://www.bicycleretailer.com/sites/default/files/styles/colorbox_popup/public/images/article/Bruce%20Gordon%20Bicycle%20Gallery.jpg?itok=1pcJZ_CX

Good Luck! 



>
>
> On May 22, 2017, at 8:40 PM, Evan Baird  
> wrote:
>
> Cross Post from BOB
>
> Hey Everybody. I spoke with Bruce Gordon again this afternoon and he still 
> hasn't found a buyer for his shop. My partner Norma and I decided that we 
> want to try to raise the money to turn BG Cycles into a frame building 
> school and bike touring museum and open it to the public. I think what 
> Bruce is asking is an insanely low amount of one of the most respected 
> names in custom bicycles and I think that he deserves a comfortable 
> retirement after everything he's done for the American Bike Industry. If 
> you can't support us directly please help us spread the word about our 
> crowdfunding campaign. We have about a month to pull this off, after which 
> Bruce told me he's just going to take his bicycle collection to the 
> recyclers and scrap the lot. I really believe he intends to do that, and I 
> would break my heart to see such beautiful and historical bikes get 
> destroyed.
>
>
> https://www.gofundme.com/save-bruce-gordon-cycles
>
>
> 
>
>
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[RBW] Re: Airless tires: What's old is new, with a cushy twist

[Brewster Fong]

Looks like a copycat of the Michelin Tweel technology:

http://www.michelintweel.com/tweel-SSL-HardSurface.html

Good Luck! 

On Sunday, April 23, 2017 at 10:01:31 AM UTC-7, Deacon Patrick wrote:
>
>
> http://gizmodo.com/bridgestones-airless-tires-will-soon-let-cyclists-aband-1794492775
>
> With abandon,
> Patrick
>
> www.CredoFamily.org
> www.MindYourHeadCoop.org
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Downhill and uphill and getting old and fat and passed.

[Brewster Fong]

On Sunday, April 2, 2017 at 3:56:02 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Does anyone know of a link that takes you to average climbing speeds in 
> the big races, over the years, so that you can compare say, Romain Maes 
> with Gino with Jacques with Eddy with le Blaireau with Big Mig with the 
> more recent fellows whom I have not troubled to follow? IOW, did climbing 
> speeds climb when multispeed, on-bike-shifted gearing systems were allowed 
> into the peloton and, further, as these were refined?
>

There are some stats out there. For example, if you wanted to know the 
"overall" speed of the TdF from 1903 to 2014, check out this graph:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tour_de_France_records_and_statistics#/media/File:Overall_Speed_Tour_de_France.gif

Comparing climbing speeds is a little more tricky because each climb is 
difference, so you need to ask about a specific climb like alp d'huez or 
ventoux. Then on a specific climbs, there are usually several routes. For 
example, climbing up Mt Ventoux has 3 different routes:

http://www.veloventoux.com/?c=montVentoux

On alpe d'huez, it depends on the length of the climb. For the 14.454km 
climb, Marco Pantani has the fastest time:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alpe_d%27Huez#Fastest_ascents

But what's really interesting is it appears that the 14 fastest times had 
some sort of doping allegation or disqualification! Further, there is a 
comparison of Coppi's 1952 time and it appears that it wasn't broken until 
the 1980s.

So it isn't that easy to compare climbing speeds. Easier for overall times, 
which are faster over time and probably due to a combination of doping and 
aero bikes. Good Luck!


>
>

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Re: [RBW] Current indexing systems and shifting in general, per the Knothole

[Brewster Fong]

On Friday, March 10, 2017 at 1:28:26 PM UTC-8, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> I think you've nailed it with "respect for 50yo carbon frames", they will 
> be virtually non-existent. There's no real concern for the longevity of 
> current electronic shifting systems because they'll be replaced in a few 
> years along with the frame they're attached to. 
>
> I think traditional steel bikes with manual components will continue to be 
> passed around and restored indefinitely, but this is simply not the case 
> with carbon racey bikes. We are in the era of the disposable bicycle in 
> that market. 
>

I have to agree. It is already happening with Shimano Dura Ace 1st 
generation di2. Parts are no longer available and the 800-1000 users are 
out of luck or have to pay exorbitant prices for spares!  I know one guy 
who got rid of his 1st gen DA carbon bike and now has a new carbon bike 
with guess...mechanical Sram Red!  :)

Btw, my calfee is now 20 years old since I bought it used in 1997 (I 
believe its a 94 model) and is still going strong. I have easily over 
30,000 miles on it and expect it to last another 20 years. But the latest 
carbon frames out of Taiwan are much much lighter and who knows how long 
they will last.then again, the MUSA Trek Emonda SLR frame that weighs 
680g has a weight limit of 275lb, so who knows?! Good Luck! 

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Re: [RBW] Current indexing systems and shifting in general, per the Knothole

[Brewster Fong]

On Friday, March 10, 2017 at 4:31:18 AM UTC-8, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> Boy, this all makes my 84 Trek look better & better, because I don't want 
> to buy stuff I want to Just Ride.
>

That's great! If a 1984 Trek is all you need to ride, then I say Just 
Do It!  In contrast, I have a buddy who just got into riding about 5 years 
ago. He has the latest Trek (well, 2014 version) with di2 and all the 
works. It got him riding and he has now lost over 30lbs and flies up 
the hills!  I had been trying to get him on a bike for 20 years, but you 
know what was stopping him? dt shifters. He couldn't stand having to reach 
down to shift. Same goes for bar-ends. However, with integrated shifters, 
where your hands almost never leave the bar, he's into it!  He is now one 
of the guys pushing everyone to get out of bed on the weekends to ride! He 
also rides on the weekdays after work during the summer. 

So, what ever floats your boat and gets you out on the bike, I say go for 
it and enjoy! Good Luck!  

>
> Michael
>
> On Friday, March 10, 2017 at 7:18:17 AM UTC-5, Garth wrote:
>>
>> With the electro stuff, are they gonna have batteries indefinitely ?  I 
>> doubt you will see may "classic" electro shifting bikes down he road with 
>> original parts. Me, I am getting a bit turned off by all the technology 
>> creeping into everything, as if a computer is "THE answer" to everything, 
>> and it's not since the only "solution" would be the impossibility of all 
>> problems. 
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Current indexing systems and shifting in general, per the Knothole

[Brewster Fong]

On Friday, March 10, 2017 at 4:18:17 AM UTC-8, Garth wrote:
>
> With the electro stuff, are they gonna have batteries indefinitely ?  I 
> doubt you will see may "classic" electro shifting bikes down he road with 
> original parts. Me, I am getting a bit turned off by all the technology 
> creeping into everything, as if a computer is "THE answer" to everything, 
> and it's not since the only "solution" would be the impossibility of all 
> problems. 


I disagree. I think e-bikes are here to stay. Besides the "racing" stuff 
like di2 and etap (which btw uses standard 2032 batteries for the shifters, 
but requires proprietary batteries for the FD and RD), there are numerous 
e-bikes out there for many uses. On my commute home, I have several hills 
to climb. I routinely get passed going up by a Bakfiet and Yugo cargo bikes 
loading with kids and groceries. I also get passed by kids on 
e-skateboards going up hill!  The latter is kind of a trip as you see these 
kids standing on their e-boards cruising up the hill.

Also, e-bikes are a good way to get just one more car off the road. I 
usually talk to the owner and most appear to be moms. I find it interesting 
and a lot more fun than driving a minivan, which I had when my girls were 
small.

Yes, batteries are going to need replacing at some point. But like a car, 
they should be available.  After all, if there's money to be made, I'm sure 
the mfrs will continue to provide it! Good Luck! 

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Re: [RBW] Current indexing systems and shifting in general, per the Knothole

[Brewster Fong]

On Thursday, March 9, 2017 at 12:59:50 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> On 03/09/2017 03:32 PM, Brewster Fong wrote:
>
>
>
> On Thursday, March 9, 2017 at 11:16:59 AM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote: 
>>
>>
>>
>> On 03/09/2017 01:05 PM, Brewster Fong wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 8, 2017 at 9:29:31 PM UTC-8, Bill M. wrote: 
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, March 8, 2017 at 2:14:48 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote: 
>>>
>>> On 03/08/2017 04:21 PM, Brewster Fong wrote:
>>>>
>>>> For my next bike, I'm planning on going etap "wireless" with mid-cage 
>>>> RD. I want to run 11-32 in the rear with a sub-compact double like a 46x30 
>>>> or 46x28.  Since I don't "tour" or carry a load, a 30x32 or 28x32 should 
>>>> be 
>>>> more than enough to get me up the hills around here! Of course, YMMV!  
>>>> Good 
>>>> Luck!
>>>>
>>>> You can help that luck by making sure your frame has a round seat tube 
>>>> and uses a clamp on front derailleur.  Which pretty much means a titanium 
>>>> frame.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Or a Calfee.  Which, come to think of it, Brewster already owns.
>>>
>>
>> Haha, my secret is out!  Actually, I'm thinking of getting one of these 
>> really lightweight carbon bikes to see what all the fuss is about. I see my 
>> buddies with these 14-15lb bikes with e-shifting and they're loving it!  I 
>> mean, take a look at the latest Trek Emonda. With not really stupid light 
>> parts, you can get a 10.25lb bike that supposedly has a weight limit of 
>> 275lb?!  Yow!  I doubt there are many here who are that heavy, but if so, 
>> there it is! 
>>
>>
>> The Calfee may have a round seat tube, but I'm pretty sure none of the 
>> Trek "Anagram" bikes do.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> I do agree that a round seat tube with a clamp on FD is ideal. However, 
>> my 90-ish Litespeed Classic ti bike has a braze-on FD hanger tab and I have 
>> my FD mounted at the lowest point for my 48/34 crankset.  
>>
>>
>> And some braze on mounting tabs have their slots configured to allow 
>> smaller than 50T big rings.  Many these days do not.  It is a limiting 
>> factor you need to be aware of.
>>
>
> Agree. At last year's NAHBS, I got into it with Mark DiNucci, one of 
> the premier builders at the show!  When I heard he was showing, I really 
> wanted to check out his frames. He didn't disappoint as he had 2 or 3 of 
> the cleanest bikes/frames on display:
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kPQOrqCuwckm-exlTPpGukQhPT-sKfoTZB_RlC-uxvwKLAaamIisH6ft8t0Bjl49fX7zTMHrklzcRgtDrO8ZIAkLPq8Js6lb0VJXDqHjRC4k0b_F4mkGEQT9tjuTF-B0SmtrQmzg2RqmdX8IXFQ-5HstJR4KB_mIeUnXlGvD4DNZnCl5CFMi-gHo4bqdMpyhYJ6e6PgCuKFM5DWqc0H_qOYIW2tuRRBMZcs8-IyBwJPPYhGKQMJx7ChgQppYt2hwXDRXLTeRrjHl8zD4UFLGj1etwmZA33TqV9snOzwwOj_t4bkGPMdI3VIKJOl1PFX6NTBj3R7eVv_-FN7nogmJjetxeD_suXSxEAFLUEU_r4WlG9zEPWafiRzgUkrT_fvV_uKGHxJ8LgDkDWS0UnTffrWKg4SeBBB_N2TXyTCgWDGE9pEISQlQ5yeH62F7OuUGcYMczifibKHBSQSq9HrkMnteji2zoxBUKfO5TNOu31w_ka8xCG4tyTDGCUgUv7DU2-XfXoPaioReLpq7U7FRfU75-_HH3Xvv9CsNJ-MUVA3m2ZQN0RyfhwiLMzmHKc1kcXtJP_onFZPr-rVEnsOTTIuxAShfxX2k-afUggK6ad4jDgk0I2hFn9InubSN7UXK61DzGOxO6xb5dKEBI7BteGqvpXNlsKGr6EODLnOzAg=w605-h905-no>
>
> <https://c1.staticflickr.com/2/1450/24998049119_709088d918_z.jpg>
>
> <https://c1.staticflickr.com/2/1566/25247415832_af6f9b9c23_k.jpg>
>
> Beautiful work especially the long thin lugs that just flow into the 
> frame. Gorgeous! But one question I had for him was whether I could get a 
> frameset without the FD hanger tab. He blew up! He asked why? I told him I 
> wanted to be able to adjust the FD to work with whatever crank I got. He 
> then went on about how they design the frame with the crank in mind and how 
> the hanger tab would be properly place!  Since he got animated, I let it 
> go. But later thought, I should have asked what happens if someone decides 
> to change their crank?  Let's say you are young "racer" type and want to 
> use a crank with 53/39 chainrings. Later, you get older and slower and want 
> more gearing so you go to 50/34 or 48/34.  Will that new crank if the FD 
> hanger tab? Let's say it does. Then a few years later, you want to go even 
> smaller like a 44/30 or 44/28?!  Will that tab still allow the FD to work 
> with this new smaller gearing?!  
>
> I guess if I ever get the money for a DiNucci, that is one of the 
> questions I'll be asking! Good Luck!
>
>  

>
> Going from the now omnipresent 35/50 to 39/53 is within the capabilities 
> of t

Re: [RBW] Current indexing systems and shifting in general, per the Knothole

[Brewster Fong]

On Thursday, March 9, 2017 at 11:16:59 AM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
>
> On 03/09/2017 01:05 PM, Brewster Fong wrote:
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, March 8, 2017 at 9:29:31 PM UTC-8, Bill M. wrote: 
>>
>> On Wednesday, March 8, 2017 at 2:14:48 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote: 
>>
>> On 03/08/2017 04:21 PM, Brewster Fong wrote:
>>>
>>> For my next bike, I'm planning on going etap "wireless" with mid-cage 
>>> RD. I want to run 11-32 in the rear with a sub-compact double like a 46x30 
>>> or 46x28.  Since I don't "tour" or carry a load, a 30x32 or 28x32 should be 
>>> more than enough to get me up the hills around here! Of course, YMMV!  Good 
>>> Luck!
>>>
>>> You can help that luck by making sure your frame has a round seat tube 
>>> and uses a clamp on front derailleur.  Which pretty much means a titanium 
>>> frame.
>>>
>>
>> Or a Calfee.  Which, come to think of it, Brewster already owns.
>>
>
> Haha, my secret is out!  Actually, I'm thinking of getting one of these 
> really lightweight carbon bikes to see what all the fuss is about. I see my 
> buddies with these 14-15lb bikes with e-shifting and they're loving it!  I 
> mean, take a look at the latest Trek Emonda. With not really stupid light 
> parts, you can get a 10.25lb bike that supposedly has a weight limit of 
> 275lb?!  Yow!  I doubt there are many here who are that heavy, but if so, 
> there it is! 
>
>
> The Calfee may have a round seat tube, but I'm pretty sure none of the 
> Trek "Anagram" bikes do.
>
>
>
>
> I do agree that a round seat tube with a clamp on FD is ideal. However, my 
> 90-ish Litespeed Classic ti bike has a braze-on FD hanger tab and I have my 
> FD mounted at the lowest point for my 48/34 crankset.  
>
>
> And some braze on mounting tabs have their slots configured to allow 
> smaller than 50T big rings.  Many these days do not.  It is a limiting 
> factor you need to be aware of.
>

Agree. At last year's NAHBS, I got into it with Mark DiNucci, one of 
the premier builders at the show!  When I heard he was showing, I really 
wanted to check out his frames. He didn't disappoint as he had 2 or 3 of 
the cleanest bikes/frames on display:

<https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/kPQOrqCuwckm-exlTPpGukQhPT-sKfoTZB_RlC-uxvwKLAaamIisH6ft8t0Bjl49fX7zTMHrklzcRgtDrO8ZIAkLPq8Js6lb0VJXDqHjRC4k0b_F4mkGEQT9tjuTF-B0SmtrQmzg2RqmdX8IXFQ-5HstJR4KB_mIeUnXlGvD4DNZnCl5CFMi-gHo4bqdMpyhYJ6e6PgCuKFM5DWqc0H_qOYIW2tuRRBMZcs8-IyBwJPPYhGKQMJx7ChgQppYt2hwXDRXLTeRrjHl8zD4UFLGj1etwmZA33TqV9snOzwwOj_t4bkGPMdI3VIKJOl1PFX6NTBj3R7eVv_-FN7nogmJjetxeD_suXSxEAFLUEU_r4WlG9zEPWafiRzgUkrT_fvV_uKGHxJ8LgDkDWS0UnTffrWKg4SeBBB_N2TXyTCgWDGE9pEISQlQ5yeH62F7OuUGcYMczifibKHBSQSq9HrkMnteji2zoxBUKfO5TNOu31w_ka8xCG4tyTDGCUgUv7DU2-XfXoPaioReLpq7U7FRfU75-_HH3Xvv9CsNJ-MUVA3m2ZQN0RyfhwiLMzmHKc1kcXtJP_onFZPr-rVEnsOTTIuxAShfxX2k-afUggK6ad4jDgk0I2hFn9InubSN7UXK61DzGOxO6xb5dKEBI7BteGqvpXNlsKGr6EODLnOzAg=w605-h905-no>

<https://c1.staticflickr.com/2/1450/24998049119_709088d918_z.jpg>

<https://c1.staticflickr.com/2/1566/25247415832_af6f9b9c23_k.jpg>

Beautiful work especially the long thin lugs that just flow into the frame. 
Gorgeous! But one question I had for him was whether I could get a frameset 
without the FD hanger tab. He blew up! He asked why? I told him I wanted to 
be able to adjust the FD to work with whatever crank I got. He then went on 
about how they design the frame with the crank in mind and how the hanger 
tab would be properly place!  Since he got animated, I let it go. But later 
thought, I should have asked what happens if someone decides to change 
their crank?  Let's say you are young "racer" type and want to use a crank 
with 53/39 chainrings. Later, you get older and slower and want more 
gearing so you go to 50/34 or 48/34.  Will that new crank if the FD hanger 
tab? Let's say it does. Then a few years later, you want to go even smaller 
like a 44/30 or 44/28?!  Will that tab still allow the FD to work with this 
new smaller gearing?!  

I guess if I ever get the money for a DiNucci, that is one of the questions 
I'll be asking! Good Luck!

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Re: [RBW] Current indexing systems and shifting in general, per the Knothole

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, March 8, 2017 at 9:29:31 PM UTC-8, Bill M. wrote:
>
> On Wednesday, March 8, 2017 at 2:14:48 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
> On 03/08/2017 04:21 PM, Brewster Fong wrote:
>>
>> For my next bike, I'm planning on going etap "wireless" with mid-cage RD. 
>> I want to run 11-32 in the rear with a sub-compact double like a 46x30 or 
>> 46x28.  Since I don't "tour" or carry a load, a 30x32 or 28x32 should be 
>> more than enough to get me up the hills around here! Of course, YMMV!  Good 
>> Luck!
>>
>> You can help that luck by making sure your frame has a round seat tube 
>> and uses a clamp on front derailleur.  Which pretty much means a titanium 
>> frame.
>>
>
> Or a Calfee.  Which, come to think of it, Brewster already owns.
>

Haha, my secret is out!  Actually, I'm thinking of getting one of these 
really lightweight carbon bikes to see what all the fuss is about. I see my 
buddies with these 14-15lb bikes with e-shifting and they're loving it!  I 
mean, take a look at the latest Trek Emonda. With not really stupid light 
parts, you can get a 10.25lb bike that supposedly has a weight limit of 
275lb?!  Yow!  I doubt there are many here who are that heavy, but if so, 
there it is! 

I do agree that a round seat tube with a clamp on FD is ideal. However, my 
90-ish Litespeed Classic ti bike has a braze-on FD hanger tab and I have my 
FD mounted at the lowest point for my 48/34 crankset.  

Alternatively, if I don't go crazy and get that fancy carbon bike, I'm 
still thinking about a custom steel. If so, it will definitely use a 
clamp-on FD adapter. Or, if I must put on a FD hanger tab, it is going to 
be either one really long hanger or mounted very low so I have the option 
of running anything from 53/39 to 46/28 or smallerGood Luck!



> I have had no problems mixing SRAM road and mountain 10 speed derailleurs 
> and shifters with 44/28 and 42/26 cranks and 11/32 or 12/28 cassettes. 
>  Even on my Calfee, now sadly sold.
>
> Bill 
> Stockton, CA
>

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Re: [RBW] Current indexing systems and shifting in general, per the Knothole

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, March 8, 2017 at 12:41:59 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
> 
>
>
> With Shimano road 11 they've taken road cassettes to 32T, but for many 
> with the usual (and often not replaceable with any better gearing) 34/50 
> that's not a low enough low gear.  It was much simpler in 10 speed days: 
> replace cassette and rear derailleur as noted above and you're good up to 
> 36T in back.  That won't work with 11, and it's necessary to enter the 
> world of altering cable pull.
>
>
> Agree.  With 11 speed, all of the different platforms work with each 
other. So you can mix Campy, Shimano and Sram wheels and cassettes.  With 
my friends, several have gone to bigger gearing like 11-32 or 11-36 and one 
friend just picked up an 11-40 or 12-40, so don't know if that will work. I 
know there's also 12-42 and I think either an 11-50 or 12-50 11 speed 
cassette!  The key is you need to have a "mid-cage" RD.  All of these big 
gear cassette is being driven by the latest "1 by" movement. But that 
doesn't stop you found adapting to a bike with a double or even a triple 
crank!  Of course, you may need a "mid-cage" RD and the wolf tooth thing. 

For my next bike, I'm planning on going etap "wireless" with mid-cage RD. I 
want to run 11-32 in the rear with a sub-compact double like a 46x30 or 
46x28.  Since I don't "tour" or carry a load, a 30x32 or 28x32 should be 
more than enough to get me up the hills around here! Of course, YMMV!  Good 
Luck! 

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Re: [RBW] Re: When is a bike old?

[Brewster Fong]

On Monday, February 27, 2017 at 7:03:59 PM UTC-8, Mark in Beacon wrote:
>
> The reason for devising it has little to do with practicality and much to 
> do with the way our economy is set up, as well as the law of diminishing 
> returns and a number of other interesting factors. When TSHTF, and your 
> electronic shifting gizmo goes on the fritz, good luck finding someone who 
> A. knows how to fix it, and B. can source parts. But at that point, 
> e-shifts will likely not be one of your top 100 concerns, so don't fret!
>

I think that's already happened!  Shimano abandoned its 1st gen Dura Ace 
di2 and parts are no longer available. Shimano didn't sell many of these 
groups and just sacrificed those that had to be the first on the block to 
have it! I had a friend with this group and I think it was his RD that 
broke. It was either spending really big bucks for a NOS one from ebay 
(like over $500) or get a new Ultegra di2 group, which is much more robust 
with the 4 wires instead of 2.  He ended up junking the system and is now 
riding Sram Red mechanical.  

Note, the current generation of Ultegra di2 is bombproof and considered the 
standard. DA saves a little weight, but the cost difference makes just 
about everyone in my group choose Ultegra di2.  Campy EPS? Almost none 
existent. I've seen it only in shops and at least my LBS, which sells lots 
of the latest bikes, says they only sold a few. The new kid on the block is 
Sram Etap. It's wireless and expensive. But so far, appears to be holding 
up. There are some reports of battery tabs breaking, but it sounds like 
user error as one guy was cleaning his bike with some sort of degreaser 
that was weakening the tab!  So, if you really NEED etap (I like it!), make 
sure you DON"T clean your bike with a degreaser! 

>
> On Monday, February 27, 2017 at 7:33:40 PM UTC-5, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>> No, the *question *was whether e shifting *reduced* mis-shifts, and 
>> whether this *reduction* was the *reason* for devising it.
>>
>> I'm afraid Steve is right; you've not stated any good reason for electric 
>> shifting except cosmetic, and in my book, that's a pretty modest reason for 
>> an entirely new system.
>>
>> Now, I personally rather like the idea of getting rid of cams and cables 
>> and pinch bolts and using servomechs to shift. After all, once you take the 
>> indexing step, then the matter of skill is out the door, and you might as 
>> well choose the simpler and more reliable system.
>>
>> But that's back to my question: is electric shifting more reliable and 
>> more simple? Will the stuff last as long as STI?
>>
>> So, once again *(please read carefully!)*: What is, or what are, the 
>> reasons for switching to batteries and servo motors?
>>
>> On Mon, Feb 27, 2017 at 5:27 PM, Brewster Fong <bfd...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>>
>>> Agree. But the concern was whether e-shifting leads to "mis-shifts."  In 
>>> my group, I haven't notice it. 
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Unlike the old Mavic Zap stuff from the 90s, this stuff really works. 
>>>> There's basically tiny computers controlling the shifting. Most people I 
>>>> know have Shimano ultegra di2 and love it. But the one guy with Sram etap 
>>>> loves it too and in fact, upgraded his second bike to it. The best thing 
>>>> about etap is there's no wires. So if you like your bike to look like a 
>>>> track bike with only brakes cables, then this is the system for you!  In 
>>>> contrast, Shimano di2 does require wires, but many frames, especially 
>>>> carbon ones, are being designed to hide the battery and control boxes. Add 
>>>> in a Garmin to track everything and being able to upload your latest time 
>>>> and you're set! 
>>>>
>>>> One interesting thing that I notice is you see with all these guys with 
>>>> major cross chain where you're in the big cog in the back and big 
>>>> chainring 
>>>> at the same time. Further, with 11 speeds, you can get 50/34 chainrings 
>>>> and 
>>>> 11-32 in the rear. So, you see guys riding in their 50t big ring and 32t 
>>>> rear cog, with no noise or protest from the system!   With di2, there's no 
>>>> rubbing either as the FD "automatically" shifts to avoid any noise. Now is 
>>>> it good for the life of the chain? Who cares, everything is done 
>>>> effortlessly!
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> You've neglected to mention, with integrated brake/shift levers you're 
>>>> limited in how much adjustment you can make of the front derailleur 

Re: [RBW] Re: When is a bike old?

[Brewster Fong]

On Monday, February 27, 2017 at 7:00:35 PM UTC-8, Ron Mc wrote:
>
> What seems to make the most sense would be a dyno hub or dyno BB that 
> keeps your battery charged.  
>

Good recommendation! It is probably cheaper and lighter than putting a 
motor and battery in your frame too! ;)

 

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Re: [RBW] Re: When is a bike old?

[Brewster Fong]

On Monday, February 27, 2017 at 4:33:40 PM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> No, the *question *was whether e shifting *reduced* mis-shifts, and 
> whether this *reduction* was the *reason* for devising it.
>

As someone who doesn't own a bike with e-shifting, I can only say what I 
see, *NONE* of my friends with e-shifting have every had a "mis-shift," but 
that's a small sampling and anecdotal. Also, I don't think this was the 
reason it was devised. I think it was devised to make faster shifting. I 
mean, a computer is faster than manual in processing pretty much anything. 
So why wouldn't shifting be the same? Does it make that much of a 
difference if you're 1 second or less faster shifting? For the majority, I 
would say no. Still, for the pros it might make that difference and we all 
know how we MUST emulate what the pros are riding!

Patrick, if you really want to know more, why are you asking the ibob list 
where most people are probably still using friction shifters or at least 
that's the reputation?!  Why not read a few cycling review and then go test 
it yourself. I'm sure trhere's a Trek/Spec/C'dale has a shop near you?!  

Anyways, take a look at a few articles like this one:

http://www.cyclingweekly.co.uk/news/product-news/six-reasons-electronic-groupsets-better-mechanical-224550

Hey even your buddies at retrogrouch addressed this issue:

http://bikeretrogrouch.blogspot.com/2016/05/electronic-vs-mechanical-shifting.html

So whether its cosmetic or actual interest in faster shifting, e-shifting 
is here to stay. The question is whether you are open enough to investigate 
it for yourself without being influence by others.

btw, I've tried it and like it. I don't have it, but can see myself getting 
it on a future bike. Why not? Cycling is suppose to be fun! Good Luck!



> I'm afraid Steve is right; you've not stated any good reason for electric 
> shifting except cosmetic, and in my book, that's a pretty modest reason for 
> an entirely new system.
>
> Now, I personally rather like the idea of getting rid of cams and cables 
> and pinch bolts and using servomechs to shift. After all, once you take the 
> indexing step, then the matter of skill is out the door, and you might as 
> well choose the simpler and more reliable system.
>
> But that's back to my question: is electric shifting more reliable and 
> more simple? Will the stuff last as long as STI?
>
> So, once again *(please read carefully!)*: What is, or what are, the 
> reasons for switching to batteries and servo motors?
>
> On Mon, Feb 27, 2017 at 5:27 PM, Brewster Fong <bfd...@gmail.com 
> > wrote:
>
>>
>>>
>> Agree. But the concern was whether e-shifting leads to "mis-shifts."  In 
>> my group, I haven't notice it. 
>>
>>>
>>> Unlike the old Mavic Zap stuff from the 90s, this stuff really works. 
>>> There's basically tiny computers controlling the shifting. Most people I 
>>> know have Shimano ultegra di2 and love it. But the one guy with Sram etap 
>>> loves it too and in fact, upgraded his second bike to it. The best thing 
>>> about etap is there's no wires. So if you like your bike to look like a 
>>> track bike with only brakes cables, then this is the system for you!  In 
>>> contrast, Shimano di2 does require wires, but many frames, especially 
>>> carbon ones, are being designed to hide the battery and control boxes. Add 
>>> in a Garmin to track everything and being able to upload your latest time 
>>> and you're set! 
>>>
>>> One interesting thing that I notice is you see with all these guys with 
>>> major cross chain where you're in the big cog in the back and big chainring 
>>> at the same time. Further, with 11 speeds, you can get 50/34 chainrings and 
>>> 11-32 in the rear. So, you see guys riding in their 50t big ring and 32t 
>>> rear cog, with no noise or protest from the system!   With di2, there's no 
>>> rubbing either as the FD "automatically" shifts to avoid any noise. Now is 
>>> it good for the life of the chain? Who cares, everything is done 
>>> effortlessly!
>>>
>>>
>>> You've neglected to mention, with integrated brake/shift levers you're 
>>> limited in how much adjustment you can make of the front derailleur to 
>>> avoid rubbing (unlike friction shifters, where you can position the FD 
>>> anywhere you like).  So that gives back something that was lost when they 
>>> went to STI.
>>>
>>
>> Ah, but you're limiting yourself to one system!  Yes, Shimano STI 
>> shifters are positional and have limited amount of trim. Sram double tap is 
>> positional too. They both also require specific shif

Re: [RBW] Re: When is a bike old?

[Brewster Fong]

On Monday, February 27, 2017 at 4:07:18 PM UTC-8, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
> On 02/27/2017 07:00 PM, Brewster Fong wrote:
>
>
>
> On Monday, February 27, 2017 at 3:49:03 PM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote: 
>>
>> Continuing this aside: what exactly is the purpose of electric shifting? 
>> I assume there is some benefit to someone besides the seller, since someone 
>> or other has been trying to make it work since the mid or late '90s. Does 
>> it make mis-shifts, which I assume (right? wrong?) are more common with 
>> cables the smaller the gaps between cogs, less likely?
>>
>
> What's the purpose  of e-shifting?! Are you crazy?!  Of course, its to 
> sell more bikes!  Come on, get with it!
>
> But seriously, the latest e-shifting is fast and reliable. 
>
>
> So too is cable shifting.
>

Agree. But the concern was whether e-shifting leads to "mis-shifts."  In my 
group, I haven't notice it. 

>
> Unlike the old Mavic Zap stuff from the 90s, this stuff really works. 
> There's basically tiny computers controlling the shifting. Most people I 
> know have Shimano ultegra di2 and love it. But the one guy with Sram etap 
> loves it too and in fact, upgraded his second bike to it. The best thing 
> about etap is there's no wires. So if you like your bike to look like a 
> track bike with only brakes cables, then this is the system for you!  In 
> contrast, Shimano di2 does require wires, but many frames, especially 
> carbon ones, are being designed to hide the battery and control boxes. Add 
> in a Garmin to track everything and being able to upload your latest time 
> and you're set! 
>
> One interesting thing that I notice is you see with all these guys with 
> major cross chain where you're in the big cog in the back and big chainring 
> at the same time. Further, with 11 speeds, you can get 50/34 chainrings and 
> 11-32 in the rear. So, you see guys riding in their 50t big ring and 32t 
> rear cog, with no noise or protest from the system!   With di2, there's no 
> rubbing either as the FD "automatically" shifts to avoid any noise. Now is 
> it good for the life of the chain? Who cares, everything is done 
> effortlessly!
>
>
> You've neglected to mention, with integrated brake/shift levers you're 
> limited in how much adjustment you can make of the front derailleur to 
> avoid rubbing (unlike friction shifters, where you can position the FD 
> anywhere you like).  So that gives back something that was lost when they 
> went to STI.
>

Ah, but you're limiting yourself to one system!  Yes, Shimano STI shifters 
are positional and have limited amount of trim. Sram double tap is 
positional too. They both also require specific shifters if you want to use 
a triple versus a double crank.  However, Campy ergo front shifting is a 
rachet and has multiple positions so you can shift either a triple of 
double. It's almost like friction shifting.

The last is Sram etap. It is also positional as you have to shift both 
levers at once to go from big ring to small ring and visa versa.  But my 
buddy loves it and says he has never had a mis-shift.

>
>
>
> If you don't have guys in your group with e-shifting, shame on you! No, 
> seriously, go down to a LBS and check it out. Go to the big boys - 
> Trek/Specialized/C'dale/Giant. You'll see the latest! The big thing in my 
> group that got everyone drooling is etap with hydraulic disc brakes. Simply 
> amazingGood Luck!
>
>
> Other than trimming the front derailleur, you haven't give a genuine 
> reason to do so.  The fact that it works isn't enough: cable shifting works 
> too, and costs thousands less without requiring charging a battery.
> Being "new" is insufficient; you really need to show "better."  And that 
> you haven't done.
>

I'm not trying to show "better."  What I like about etap is the look. No 
derailleur cables!  Very clean look and once they have e-braking, no cables 
at all! ;)  If I had the money, this Mark DiNucci would be on my list 
(click the picture for the slideshow):

http://theradavist.com/2016/02/2016-nahbs-dinucci-classic-road-with-sram-red-etap/#1

As for pricing, yes etap is pricey as the basic shifters, FD, RD and 
charger is about $1200-1600 and complete group is about $2000-2500. But 
that's similar to mechanical Campy SR/DA 9100/Sram Red. The most popular 
Shimano Ultegra 11 di2 can be found for under $1000 from the UK.  Yes, you 
can get other gruppos for less - Ultegra 11 mechanical can be found for 
about $500-600 and 105 11 speed which is probably 85% of DA can be found 
around $400-500.

So if you're happy with your shifting and don't want to try anything new, 
keep going! Hey, I'm still have 9 speed and both my bikes (Calfee carbon 
and LItespeed ti) are ov

Re: [RBW] Re: When is a bike old?

[Brewster Fong]

On Monday, February 27, 2017 at 3:49:03 PM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Continuing this aside: what exactly is the purpose of electric shifting? I 
> assume there is some benefit to someone besides the seller, since someone 
> or other has been trying to make it work since the mid or late '90s. Does 
> it make mis-shifts, which I assume (right? wrong?) are more common with 
> cables the smaller the gaps between cogs, less likely?
>

What's the purpose  of e-shifting?! Are you crazy?!  Of course, its to sell 
more bikes!  Come on, get with it!

But seriously, the latest e-shifting is fast and reliable. Unlike the old 
Mavic Zap stuff from the 90s, this stuff really works. There's basically 
tiny computers controlling the shifting. Most people I know have Shimano 
ultegra di2 and love it. But the one guy with Sram etap loves it too and in 
fact, upgraded his second bike to it. The best thing about etap is there's 
no wires. So if you like your bike to look like a track bike with only 
brakes cables, then this is the system for you!  In contrast, Shimano di2 
does require wires, but many frames, especially carbon ones, are being 
designed to hide the battery and control boxes. Add in a Garmin to track 
everything and being able to upload your latest time and you're set! 

One interesting thing that I notice is you see with all these guys with 
major cross chain where you're in the big cog in the back and big chainring 
at the same time. Further, with 11 speeds, you can get 50/34 chainrings and 
11-32 in the rear. So, you see guys riding in their 50t big ring and 32t 
rear cog, with no noise or protest from the system!   With di2, there's no 
rubbing either as the FD "automatically" shifts to avoid any noise. Now is 
it good for the life of the chain? Who cares, everything is done 
effortlessly!

If you don't have guys in your group with e-shifting, shame on you! No, 
seriously, go down to a LBS and check it out. Go to the big boys - 
Trek/Specialized/C'dale/Giant. You'll see the latest! The big thing in my 
group that got everyone drooling is etap with hydraulic disc brakes. Simply 
amazingGood Luck! 

 

>
>
>
> On Mon, Feb 27, 2017 at 4:23 PM, Steve Palincsar <pali...@his.com 
> > wrote:
>
>> Yes, that happened to a woman on a ride I led a couple of weeks ago.  Not 
>> a way to make me fall in love with that technology, unless there's a 
>> special use-case involved.  Those stick them anywhere auxiliary shift 
>> buttons could be a godsend to someone with only one hand that works (and I 
>> have encountered such folks along the way) but certainly for me it's a 
>> solution that offers nothing whatsoever.
>>
>> On 02/27/2017 06:04 PM, Eric Norris wrote:
>>
>> I was on a ride last week when two guys on bikes rolled in to the coffee 
>> place. One was on a bike with electronic shifting. Halfway through a 
>> 40-mile ride, he was stuck in the small ring because the bike’s battery was 
>> low. Granted, he said he hardly ever has to charge the bike’s batteries, 
>> but my “old-fashioned” bikes with cable-actuated shifting will never have 
>> that problem. 
>>
>> Disclaimer: I have plenty of electronics with me when I ride … just not 
>> shifters. If all my batteries died, my bike would still work.
>>
>> --Eric Norris
>> campyo...@me.com 
>> @CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram)
>>
>> On Feb 27, 2017, at 2:59 PM, Brewster Fong <bfd...@gmail.com 
>> > wrote:
>>
>> Yeah, my riding buddies all have the latest in bicycles. They're all 
>> drooling over disc brakes and e-shifting and if you don't have either, well 
>> watch out for all the death and destruction!
>>
>> So, I'm the guy with the "old bikes" in the group. Both of my bikes were 
>> both used - a 94-ish Calfee carbon bike and a 90-ish Litespeed Classic. I 
>> bought my Calfee used in 1997 and I believe its a 94 model. It is strong 
>> and I easily expect it to last another 20 years. My litespeed was picked up 
>> a few years ago for $400 and it is now my commuter with fenders and lights. 
>> Both are running Campy 9 speed, although I'm considering "upgrading" the 
>> Calfee to 11 speed as I would like to check out the Campy 3rd gen ergo 
>> levers which I call gumby hood. 
>>
>> I'm old and fat, so I really not interested in the latest. But what's 
>> newGood Luck!
>>
>> On Monday, February 27, 2017 at 6:36:50 AM UTC-8, Addison wrote: 
>>>
>>> I've had people assume my Riv is an "old" bike for a long time now but 
>>> yesterday when I was riding home I stopped to take a photo of the rushing 
>>> Truckee River in Reno and a gent paused to compliment me on my &

Re: [RBW] Re: When is a bike old?

[Brewster Fong]

I have to admit that if I was going to go to e-shifting, etap is the way to 
go. Yes, you do have to monitor the battery to make sure its charged, but 
my buddy says he "rarely" ever charges it and probably only does it once a 
month. Still, the wireless feature is kind of neat, makes a bike look like 
a track bike!  

However, I'm the luddite and am holding out against disc brakes. Too many 
standards and it doesn't seem necessary for road bikes. Now off-road is 
different and I hear its great!  In contrast, my "buddies" are amazed that 
I still use single-pivot brakes and haven't killed anyone yet

On Monday, February 27, 2017 at 3:04:14 PM UTC-8, Eric Norris wrote:
>
> I was on a ride last week when two guys on bikes rolled in to the coffee 
> place. One was on a bike with electronic shifting. Halfway through a 
> 40-mile ride, he was stuck in the small ring because the bike’s battery was 
> low. Granted, he said he hardly ever has to charge the bike’s batteries, 
> but my “old-fashioned” bikes with cable-actuated shifting will never have 
> that problem.
>
> Disclaimer: I have plenty of electronics with me when I ride … just not 
> shifters. If all my batteries died, my bike would still work.
>
> --Eric Norris
> campyo...@me.com 
> @CampyOnlyguy (Twitter/Instagram)
>
> On Feb 27, 2017, at 2:59 PM, Brewster Fong <bfd...@gmail.com > 
> wrote:
>
> Yeah, my riding buddies all have the latest in bicycles. They're all 
> drooling over disc brakes and e-shifting and if you don't have either, well 
> watch out for all the death and destruction!
>
> So, I'm the guy with the "old bikes" in the group. Both of my bikes were 
> both used - a 94-ish Calfee carbon bike and a 90-ish Litespeed Classic. I 
> bought my Calfee used in 1997 and I believe its a 94 model. It is strong 
> and I easily expect it to last another 20 years. My litespeed was picked up 
> a few years ago for $400 and it is now my commuter with fenders and lights. 
> Both are running Campy 9 speed, although I'm considering "upgrading" the 
> Calfee to 11 speed as I would like to check out the Campy 3rd gen ergo 
> levers which I call gumby hood. 
>
> I'm old and fat, so I really not interested in the latest. But what's 
> newGood Luck!
>
> On Monday, February 27, 2017 at 6:36:50 AM UTC-8, Addison wrote:
>>
>> I've had people assume my Riv is an "old" bike for a long time now but 
>> yesterday when I was riding home I stopped to take a photo of the rushing 
>> Truckee River in Reno and a gent paused to compliment me on my "beautiful 
>> old bike."  I just said thanks and didn't correct him.  And then it 
>> occurred to me that I shouldn't correct him because my Allrounder is going 
>> on 18 years of age.  Many miles but it looks sharp...I've taken care of it 
>> through commutes and offroading and tours.  Anyway, just ruminating...and 
>> posting a couple pics.  Happy Monday!
>>
>> http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/2017/02/when-is-bike-old.html
>>
>> Addison Wilhite, M.A. 
>>
>> Academy of Arts, Careers and Technology 
>> <http://www.washoeschools.net/aact> 
>>
>> *“Blazing the Trail to College and Career Success”*
>>
>> Educator: Professional Portfolio <http://renorambler.wix.com/portfolio>
>>
>> Blogger: Reno Rambler <http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/> 
>>
>>
>>
>>
> -- 
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>
>

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[RBW] Re: When is a bike old?

[Brewster Fong]

Yeah, my riding buddies all have the latest in bicycles. They're all 
drooling over disc brakes and e-shifting and if you don't have either, well 
watch out for all the death and destruction!

So, I'm the guy with the "old bikes" in the group. Both of my bikes were 
both used - a 94-ish Calfee carbon bike and a 90-ish Litespeed Classic. I 
bought my Calfee used in 1997 and I believe its a 94 model. It is strong 
and I easily expect it to last another 20 years. My litespeed was picked up 
a few years ago for $400 and it is now my commuter with fenders and lights. 
Both are running Campy 9 speed, although I'm considering "upgrading" the 
Calfee to 11 speed as I would like to check out the Campy 3rd gen ergo 
levers which I call gumby hood. 

I'm old and fat, so I really not interested in the latest. But what's 
newGood Luck!

On Monday, February 27, 2017 at 6:36:50 AM UTC-8, Addison wrote:
>
> I've had people assume my Riv is an "old" bike for a long time now but 
> yesterday when I was riding home I stopped to take a photo of the rushing 
> Truckee River in Reno and a gent paused to compliment me on my "beautiful 
> old bike."  I just said thanks and didn't correct him.  And then it 
> occurred to me that I shouldn't correct him because my Allrounder is going 
> on 18 years of age.  Many miles but it looks sharp...I've taken care of it 
> through commutes and offroading and tours.  Anyway, just ruminating...and 
> posting a couple pics.  Happy Monday!
>
> http://reno-rambler.blogspot.com/2017/02/when-is-bike-old.html
>
> Addison Wilhite, M.A. 
>
> Academy of Arts, Careers and Technology 
>  
>
> *“Blazing the Trail to College and Career Success”*
>
> Educator: Professional Portfolio 
>
> Blogger: Reno Rambler  
>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] My Cantis cant get no respect.

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, January 10, 2017 at 4:13:58 PM UTC-8, Eric Daume wrote:
>
> I'll say, V brakes are the ones that don't seem to get any respect. Cantis 
> still have some cool factor from the 'cross crowd, but V brake seem mostly 
> relegated to cheap hybrids. But if you look at power, cost, weight, 
> modulation, and set up ease, I think V's would at least get a podium finish 
> in every category.
>
> IME, for snow and ice, disc brakes are the best. Otherwise, I would be 
> happy with V brakes on everything else.
>

Agree. I had suntour xc pro canti brakes and hated them on the front!  No 
matter what I did - change pads, adjust toe-in, etc. It would work for a 
few rides then it was back to the squealing and shuddering. This was on a 
steel frame bike with a steel fork too.  I was using Campy ergo shifters 
and it was a pain. So I went into my LBS and they said try a mini-v brake. 
I bought the cheapest Tektro 926al for about $20 and wow, what a 
difference!  It was like night and day!  No more squealing or shuddering or 
the lever almost hitting the handlebar. It just worked. It was like the 
best $20 I ever spent!  I gave away that suntour canti brake, but still 
keep the one in the rear as I didn't have a problem with it.

So my new frame is going to have Paul minimoto mini-v brakes. I tried the 
Pauls on another friend's bike and it worked great. Also, easy to adjust 
too.

Of course, YMMV!  Good Luck!

>
> Eric Daume
> Plain City, OH
>
> On Tue, Jan 10, 2017 at 5:06 PM, Michael Hechmer  > wrote:
>
>> Probably like a lot of us, I got an email announcing a Jan Hein blog 
>> comparing rim & disk brakes.  Now, I have almost no experience with disk 
>> brakes but much of what I read makes me think they could be a good choice 
>> for some bikes.  I found myself saying, not my experience,  when he 
>> compared posted CP and canti brakes. Jan has a phenomenal amount of 
>> experience that's hard to challenge, but  My experience of modulation 
>> with good, and I emphasize good, cantis has not been any less than with 
>> good CP brakes.  The issue of shutter, which he raises with cantis, because 
>> they mount lower on the fork than CP brakes, seems, to me, to be related to 
>> the skill of the bike builder.
>>
>> Here's my experience with Cantis vs CP brakes.  My early Saluki, with 
>> Paul's cantis offers excellent stopping power and modulation that is just 
>> as good as the Pauls's CP brakes on my Rambouilet.  I originally had Pauls 
>> posted CP on my tandem with 38 mm tires and converted the frame to cantis 
>> in order to go to 45mm and switched to Paul's neo-retros.  There is no 
>> difference in modulation, the cantis might offer a minute amount of extra 
>> braking (when set up properly).  However a tandem might not be an exact 
>> comparison to braking on a single.  The extra mass is huge, but the extra 
>> weight in the rear (no offense honey) helps to keep the rear wheel planted 
>> and adds to rear braking power.
>>
>> Michael
>>
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>
>

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[RBW] Re: Has anyone used this bell?

[Brewster Fong]

On Tuesday, January 10, 2017 at 7:17:00 PM UTC-8, Jon BALER wrote:
>
> If you want this bell,  buy the knog original.   This is a knock-off


I don't know anything about this knock off, but the Knog Oi bell is 
terrible! I bought one on their kickstarter campaign and it is one the 
worst bell I have ever used! A $10 cheapie from Performance is far 
superior. The main problem appears to be the striker is plastic (really?! 
WTF?!) and the spring is weak. So it rattles and slightly rings while 
you're riding along and hit a bump and when you use it - forgetaboutit!  
Its like the softest sound and on places like riding across the Golden Gate 
Bridge, where there's lots of noise, you can barely hear it.

Save your money and either get a Spurbell or buy one of those superior $10 
bells from Performance:

 
http://www.performancebike.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10052_10551_1179171_-1_400246__400246

Good Luck!

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[RBW] Re: My Debate

[Brewster Fong]

 Jock wrote:



Wait, you have an Eisentraut and it's hanging on the wall?!  Why? If it is 
not damaged, why not fix that up and get it going?!  Although now retired, 
Albert Eisentraut's frames are second to none!  

Good Luck!  

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Re: [RBW] Need help choosing rear hub for Soma San Marcos

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, November 23, 2016 at 12:45:23 PM UTC-8, Brewster Fong wrote:
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, November 23, 2016 at 12:42:19 PM UTC-8, Brewster Fong wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, November 23, 2016 at 7:32:25 AM UTC-8, Belopsky wrote:
>>>
>>> o..Ashwath looks like you got some reading to do!
>>>
>>> Shimano wont work with Campy. I think there are ways to go about it 
>>> where it does, but basically just don't. I think you need special cables as 
>>> well for Campy bits?
>>>
>>> Rear is 130mm. There are many hubs that support Campy, but they have to 
>>> be Campy specific.. Are you building your own wheels?
>>>
>>
>> One option is to replace the Campy freehub body with one designed for 
>> Shimano cassettes.  Not sure if it works with a Veloce rear hub, but for 
>> the Record/Chorus/Centaur with the oversized axle, but there are a couple 
>> of options:
>>
>> For standard 17mm axle, you will probably need this one:
>>
>>
>> http://www.totalcycling.com/en/Campagnolo-Freehub-Body-For-Shimano-891011-Speed---R1137139-17mm-alloy-axle/m-19018.aspx
>>
>> For 9mm axle, it might be this one:
>>
>>
>> http://www.totalcycling.com/en/Campagnolo-Freehub-Body-For-Shimano-8910-Speed---R1134955-9mm-Steel-Axle/m-19019.aspx
>>
>> You should verify which one will work with your specific hub if 
>> interested. Good Luck!
>>
>
> Apparently, there's also a Campy freehub body for shimano 
> 8/9/10 cassette for a 12mm axle too:
>
>  
> http://www.totalcycling.com/en/Campagnolo-Freehub-Body-For-Shimano-8-9-10sp-With-12mm-Axle/m-22417.aspx
>
> Just need to figure out what size axle you have! 
>

Actually, the 12mm axle might be the one you need as this description 
includes Mirage rear hub with cartridge bearings:


   - Also known as Fulcrum R5-120, identical part 
   - Fits Campagnolo Bullet, pre-2013 Scirocco, pre-2014 Vento and Khamsin 
   wheels including CX variants, Campagnolo Mirage, Veloce and 2007/8 Centaur 
   hubs, Fulcrum Red Wind and pre-2014 Racing 4, 
   - For use with Fulcrum and Campagnolo wheels that use 12mm axles and 
   sealed cartridge bearings 
   - For use with Shimano and SRAM 8, 9, 10 and 11 speed cassettes 
   - Replaces FH-BU015X, WH-KX9 and R5-020 


Note - Fulcrum and Campagnolo are related. I believe Fulcrum is Taiwan made 
Campy parts. 

link:  
https://www.amazon.com/Fulcrum-Campagnolo-Freehub-Shimano-Cassettes/dp/B00BNZZ678/ref=sr_1_2?s=outdoor-recreation=UTF8=1479934913=1-2=campagnolo+freehub+body+for+shimano

So, the Total Cycling hub at $41 is a great deal, if it fits!  Good Luck!  

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Re: [RBW] Need help choosing rear hub for Soma San Marcos

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, November 23, 2016 at 12:42:19 PM UTC-8, Brewster Fong wrote:
>
>
>
> On Wednesday, November 23, 2016 at 7:32:25 AM UTC-8, Belopsky wrote:
>>
>> o..Ashwath looks like you got some reading to do!
>>
>> Shimano wont work with Campy. I think there are ways to go about it where 
>> it does, but basically just don't. I think you need special cables as well 
>> for Campy bits?
>>
>> Rear is 130mm. There are many hubs that support Campy, but they have to 
>> be Campy specific.. Are you building your own wheels?
>>
>
> One option is to replace the Campy freehub body with one designed for 
> Shimano cassettes.  Not sure if it works with a Veloce rear hub, but for 
> the Record/Chorus/Centaur with the oversized axle, but there are a couple 
> of options:
>
> For standard 17mm axle, you will probably need this one:
>
>
> http://www.totalcycling.com/en/Campagnolo-Freehub-Body-For-Shimano-891011-Speed---R1137139-17mm-alloy-axle/m-19018.aspx
>
> For 9mm axle, it might be this one:
>
>
> http://www.totalcycling.com/en/Campagnolo-Freehub-Body-For-Shimano-8910-Speed---R1134955-9mm-Steel-Axle/m-19019.aspx
>
> You should verify which one will work with your specific hub if 
> interested. Good Luck!
>

Apparently, there's also a Campy freehub body for shimano 
8/9/10 cassette for a 12mm axle too:

 
http://www.totalcycling.com/en/Campagnolo-Freehub-Body-For-Shimano-8-9-10sp-With-12mm-Axle/m-22417.aspx

Just need to figure out what size axle you have! 

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Re: [RBW] Need help choosing rear hub for Soma San Marcos

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, November 23, 2016 at 7:32:25 AM UTC-8, Belopsky wrote:
>
> o..Ashwath looks like you got some reading to do!
>
> Shimano wont work with Campy. I think there are ways to go about it where 
> it does, but basically just don't. I think you need special cables as well 
> for Campy bits?
>
> Rear is 130mm. There are many hubs that support Campy, but they have to be 
> Campy specific.. Are you building your own wheels?
>

One option is to replace the Campy freehub body with one designed for 
Shimano cassettes.  Not sure if it works with a Veloce rear hub, but for 
the Record/Chorus/Centaur with the oversized axle, but there are a couple 
of options:

For standard 17mm axle, you will probably need this one:

http://www.totalcycling.com/en/Campagnolo-Freehub-Body-For-Shimano-891011-Speed---R1137139-17mm-alloy-axle/m-19018.aspx

For 9mm axle, it might be this one:

http://www.totalcycling.com/en/Campagnolo-Freehub-Body-For-Shimano-8910-Speed---R1134955-9mm-Steel-Axle/m-19019.aspx

You should verify which one will work with your specific hub if interested. 
Good Luck!

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Re: Noodles uncomfortable? Was: [RBW] Re: Nitto M151F bar story behind it on all those riv builds lately?

[Brewster Fong]

On Thursday, October 27, 2016 at 11:08:59 AM UTC-7, Olof Stroh wrote:
>
> Grant wrote:
>
> I THINK the consensus here is that a Noodle still wins (my vote, but 
> that's to be expected, I'm sure).
>
>  
>
> I had a Nitto 176 aka Dream Bar I bought from Riv and loved. Read the 
> praise for Noodles, bought them and tried to love them but found them to be 
> murder for my wrists. They are now adorning my cellarfloor while I had to 
> search ebay for my second and third Dream Bar as Riv had taken its hand 
> from them. 
>

Rivendell isn't the only source for the Nitto 176/Dream bars as they are 
still available! 

Somafab has them listed on their website, albeit only in 42/44cm:

http://store.somafab.com/nittom176dream.html

Further, any shop should be able to order them via Merry Sales as they're 
listed in their catalog on page 96:

http://www.merrysales.com/merry_catalog_2016_pricefree.pdf

Good Luck! 

 

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[RBW] Re: Brake comparison again

[Brewster Fong]

On Wednesday, October 19, 2016 at 11:10:30 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> I have lots of experience with bunches of SP & canti brakes, along with 
> assorted levers,  but very little with V brakes and none with disks. During 
> the last month I have had the opportunity to try both out.  We have test 
> ridden two tandems (a DaVinci with ICS and a CoMotion with a Rolhoff). 
>  Much to my surprise I could not tell much difference between those to sets 
> of disk brakes and the neo retros on our tandem.  Both the power and 
> modulation felt very similar.  I am now visiting my son in El Cerrito and 
> we borrowed a bike with Tectro V brakes.  I found them very powerful but 
> the front brake had almost no modulation at all.  Just the slightest touch 
> of the lever brought the bike to a complete stop.
>
> Is this typical of V brakes?  Do others who have tried these have a 
> similar impression?
>

My experience with v-brakes is very positive. I use them with Campy ergo 
levers and like that the bike stops with the slightest touch! There's also 
no vibration/shuddering or sequealing either.  I had a terrible Suntour xc 
pro canti front brake with kool stop salmon pads and all the bike did was 
squeal, shudder and rattle. I put on a $20 cheapie tektro mini v-brake and 
it was amazing! I had instant stopping power without all the noise and 
vibration! I would never go back to cantis. Highly recommend mini 
v-brakes!  In fact, my new bike will have Paul mini v-brakes on it!

Disc brakes? I hear they're great on tandems. My friends who have them, 
ride singles and love disc brakes! They won't go back!  The only negative 
report about disc on tandems I've seen is by Santana as they prefer 
v-brakes and dual pivots over disc.  But based on comments in various 
forums, it sounds like they are in the minority:

http://santanatandems.com/Techno/BrakePower.html

Good Luck!

>
> Michael
>

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[RBW] Re: RBW Cassettes from IRD

[Brewster Fong]

A cheaper alternative to the Harris cassette is Shimano sells an 11-30 9 
speed cassette:

http://www.wiggle.com/shimano-hg50-9-speed-cassette/

For $18, it is a pretty good deal. But two things about them. First, 
there's that 11t small cog that many don't like. Second, I found the 
quality of Shimano HG50 to be mediocre. It just doesn't shift as crisp as 
my ultegra/dura ace cassettes. Still, for $18, it is definitely worth a 
try. Good Luck!


On Sunday, October 16, 2016 at 1:28:37 AM UTC-7, Rob H. wrote:

> Harris Cyclery has a 13-30 Century Special
>
>
> http://harriscyclery.net/product/harris-custom-century-special-13-30-9-speed-cassette-702.htm
>
> On Saturday, October 15, 2016 at 6:01:56 PM UTC-7, Bill in Roswell GA 
> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Looks like Soma has the 12-32.
>>
>> According to IRD website, they are no longer making the 12-32, only 12-30 
>> and 12-34.
>>
>> I need to know such things as I just rebuilt my 20 year old MTB 9 speed! 
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Bill in Roswell, GA
>>
>> On Saturday, October 15, 2016 at 6:12:12 PM UTC-4, John Hawrylak wrote:
>>>
>>> A few months ago the RBW website advertised 9 spd cassettes from IRD in 
>>> sizes not commonly available.  Now, there is only the standard 
>>> Shimano/Srams on the site. 
>>>
>>> Does anyone know what happened???   The idea sounded good and their 
>>> write up was convincing.
>>>
>>> John Hawrylak
>>> Woodstown NJ
>>>
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Grant's Stock on Bike Forums has Appreciated

[Brewster Fong]

On Thursday, October 6, 2016 at 1:39:23 PM UTC-7, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> OHO. Oh, no. No no no no; no old mountain bikes; this is very, very 
> strictly Old School Roadie: no clipless, no aero levers, and I think that 
> shifting is limited to dt and bar ends. Wool and leather and steel highly 
> preferred. Approved bikes date from the early 20th century thru the '70s, 
> IIRC.
>
> I must admit having a large sentimental and aesthetic fondness for 
> "classic" road race bikes -- say, 50s thru very early 80 (I started earning 
> my cycling chops about the time Eddy went Pro, and I once built a bike with 
> a real Cyclo Benelux rd; but even I feel constrained by the Eroica rubric. 
>
> But I'd love to ride one; would have to replace the aero levers and pedals 
> on one of the Rivs, though.
>

Well they did make one exception at this year's Eroica California by 
allowing ANDY HAMPSTEN to ride the bike he used to win the Giro in 1988, 
his 7-11 *Huffy* bike, which has both aero levers and clipless pedals:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/46195580@N03/26378658655

https://www.flickr.com/photos/46195580@N03/25776015083/

So, they do make some exceptions...;)  Good Luck! 

>
> On Thu, Oct 6, 2016 at 1:00 PM, 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com > wrote:
>
>> I had to look up Eroica.   Sounds like a fun scene.  Especially if they 
>> include 80's MTB's! 
>>
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Turkey Vulture Gearing 101

[Brewster Fong]

On Friday, September 16, 2016 at 5:37:24 AM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:
>
>
> On 09/15/2016 11:45 PM, Clayton.sf wrote: 
> > 40t cogs are the domain of 1x gearing IMO, unless it is an academic 
> exercise or you are schlepping too much much gear. 22x40 - you would likely 
> be able to walk as fast. And... why not use at triple at that point. 
> Personally I like short cage derailers for dirt or none at all and don't go 
> beyond 36 in a cassette. 
>
> Triples aren't an option because 
> 1) there aren't many, if any, made for the type of bottom brackets used 
> on carbon road bikes; 2) integrated brake/shift levers don't do triples 
> (either at all, in the case of the higher group levels, or very 
> successfully); 3) even if you could change crank sets you are still 
> stuck with a 50T large chain ring on most of these bikes because the 
> front derailleur is mounted on a "braze-on" bracket whose adjustment 
> slot is made such that you can't lower the front derailleur at all.   
> Along with that 50T big ring comes a 34T small ring. 
>
> Boy, this is a real generalization that isn't really true!  Well, at least 
> with Campy equipment. 



First, triple crank. Yes, for 2016, Campy still offers a triple crank:
>

 
http://www.campagnolo.com/US/en/CampyWorld/Product/new_triple_transimissions_athenacentaur_and_veloce

Second, integrated shifters and triple - Campy ergo levers are still triple 
compatible. In fact, the current Athena is triple compatible with 11 speed:

http://www.campagnolo.com/US/en/Support/is_the_triple_crankset_compatible_with_an_11_speed_groupset

Third, agree that Campy triple crank gearing are 30/42/53 or 30/39/52:

http://www.campagnolo.com/WW/en/Components/athena_power_torque_11x3_crankset

But I believe the 30t small ring is still 74mm bcd, so you can actually 
substitute a smaller ring down to 24t? 

Also, it looks like Shimano still offers triples in Ultegra, 105, Claris 
(what's that?!) and Tiagra.  However, they are only for their 10 speed 
groups. Haven't seen anything for 11 speed, so it may not be available. 



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[RBW] Re: What does "Presta" mean?

[Brewster Fong]

On Thursday, September 1, 2016 at 10:50:38 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> Almost 40 years ago I bought my first set of wheels with something called 
> "Presta Valves."  I always assumed that  it was Italian for press the pump 
> onto the stem, but now realize that might not be true.  In the last two 
> years I have replaced both my floor pump and a mini pump.  Both of these 
> don't allow me to presta dem on; now I have to screwda dem on.  OK, so the 
> little thingamabob gets pressed down to open the valve, but still I think 
> they should now be called screweda valves.
>

Sheldon Brown has a definition:

 http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_p.html#presta

Good Luck!

>
> Michael
>

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Re: [RBW] Thinking of a Riv

[Brewster Fong]

On Friday, August 26, 2016 at 2:17:39 PM UTC-7, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>
> Steve,
>
> I like your Century Special 13-30 range.  That may be something for me to 
> aspire to.  I'm not really sure of what I need for a low gear.  I like the 
> idea of the 18 given my currently weakened state.  As I build strength and 
> endurance, a higher low gear that allows closer spacing may be preferred.  
> I guess I'll know when I get there.  :)
>

Another option is Shimano also sells its HG-50 9 speed cassette in 11-30 
with gear ratio: 11-12-14-16-18-20-23-26-30 teeth

Now, you may not need that 11t cog, but if your front rings are small, it 
could come in handly. Further, at about $18, it's a good deal too:

http://www.wiggle.com/shimano-hg50-9-speed-cassette/

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-sora-hg50-9-speed-road-cassette/rp-prod387

Good Luck!


On to some great news:  Now that I've selected the 3x9 with bar ends that 
> Riv stocks, my build should be done today and ship around Tuesday of next 
> week.  Yeah!  :D
>
> Thanks again everyone for the continued education.
>
> Tim
>
> On Fri, Aug 26, 2016 at 1:58 PM, Steve Palincsar  > wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> On 08/26/2016 04:43 PM, Tim Butterfield wrote:
>>
>> On Fri, Aug 26, 2016 at 10:32 AM, Steve Palincsar > > wrote:
>>
>>> I'm not seeing a 9 speed 12-36 cassette, although I do see a 12-34. 
>>>
>>
>> This page has the option for 9 speed 12-36t cassette.
>> http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/cs.htm
>>  
>>
>>
>> Ah.  I see it now.
>>
>> 12 - 14 - 16 - 18 - 21 - 24 - 28 - 32 - 36
>>
>> gives you this gearing with a "nominal 27 inch wheel"
>>
>> 54.0 81.0 103.5 
>> 46.3 69.4 88.7 
>> 40.5 60.8 77.6 
>> 36.0 54.0 69.0 
>> 30.9 46.3 59.1 
>> 27.0 40.5 51.8 
>> 23.1 34.7 44.4 
>> 20.3 30.4 38.8 
>> 18.0 27.0 34.5 
>> so that 122 or whatever must be an error of some sort.  103 is far more 
>> reasonable and usable, although to my taste, I'd prefer it a bit lower.
>>
>> Changing the 1st position sprocket to a 13 would give you this instead:
>>
>> 49.8 74.8 95.5 
>> 46.3 69.4 88.7 
>> 40.5 60.8 77.6 
>> 36.0 54.0 69.0 
>> 30.9 46.3 59.1 
>> 27.0 40.5 51.8 
>> 23.1 34.7 44.4 
>> 20.3 30.4 38.8 
>> 18.0 27.0 34.5 
>> Here's what my Century Special 13-30 looks like with those same chain 
>> rings:
>>
>> 49.8 74.8 95.5 
>> 46.3 69.4 88.7 
>> 43.2 64.8 82.8 
>> 38.1 57.2 73.1 
>> 34.1 51.2 65.4 
>> 30.9 46.3 59.1 
>> 27.0 40.5 51.8 
>> 24.0 36.0 46.0 
>> 21.6 32.4 41.4 
>> I have this on several bikes, some with 48 instead of 46 T big rings, 
>> some with 26 instead of 24T inner rings.  I really like the 95.5" top gear 
>> and the spacing between the top gear and the next one down.  
>>
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>
>

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