KR> Why messages appear empty - it's probably not "plain text"
The number one reason why posts show up with nothing in them is because the message was sent as HTML, rather than plain text. The system doesn't pass HTML because HTML requires a lot more bandwidth to transfer, which means higher data rates (which is important for folks with limited data plans or slow internet), and it further bloats the archive. The default for many email systems is HTML, but it's a pretty simple matter to change message type to "plain text" rather than "HTML". Many also allow you to set message type automatically based on destination. I have mine set to automatically make any email sent to www.krnet.org be sent in plain text only. Google is your friend here..."how to send plain text messages from . Mark Langford, Harvest, AL ML "at" N56ML.com www.N56ML.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> 4-into-1 exhaust system help?
I gave up trying to find an exhaust system that even vaguely resembles what I have on N891JF. I'm going to have to build another one that replicates it, unless I want to remove the engine, completely reconfigure the firewall and intake system, etc. Building a new system, as painful as that sounds, is easier than the alternative. I was going to build it out of 321 stainless until I checked the prices. A 321 U-bend is $94, a 304 U-bend is $40, and a mild steel U-bend is $10. I need 8 U-bends (four are actually J-bends, but same price), just to think about getting started, we're talking $800, not to mention collector, tailpipe, flanges, etc, if built from 321 stainless. The existing one made it to 600 hours and was mild steel. I'll have N56ML back in the air before I put another 600 hours on this one! By contrast, my Corvair system was almost reasonable built from 321, because it is built so simply using only three U-bends for six cylinders. But it's not a complex 6-into-1 system either, just a pair of simple 3-into-1 pipes. I have everything I need to start on it, and that's what I'm doing all weekend, and probably next weekend as well. I built two mockup engines, one with the old exhaust to measure distances and angles from, and the other as the fixture to build the new system onto. We'll see how it goes. One thing I learned along the way is that Great Plains has no exhaust systems built, but they do have fixtures, so they are "to order" with a 30 day lead time. The configurations are shown on their website at http://greatplainsas.com/scexhaust.html , none of which are similar to mine. Also, gauge size is not mentioned on their website, but they are 18g (.049"), rather than the 16g (.065")like the original exhaust system, so I had to get all materials elsewhere. I did buy flanges from them, but am not enamored with them as the mounting holes are huge compared to the 8mm studs, so I'll have to carefully center the flanges to the ports before I start welding tubes to them. Mark Langford m...@n56ml.com http://www.n56ml.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Melting lead
Paul Visk wrote: > How do you melt a 5 lbs chunk of lead on the stove? I melted mine on a small standalone hot plate (so I could do it outside). The pot was a thin one with a lid, and it did take a long time, but it worked. This hot pad is a cheapo thing that's probably 50 years old, with a simple coil of nichrome wire in a spiral shape down in a piece of ceramic plate. I would think a gas stove should do the job... Mark Langford m...@n56ml.com http://www.n56ml.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> stall speed
Before I get corrected by a bunch of people, IAS stall speed remains the same regardless of altitude. Not sure what I was thinking when I wrote that. Right after I sent that I thought "I wonder why I never thought of that before". It occurred to me when I woke up at 1AM and something was nagging at methat's a basic premise of IASstall speed is always the same, regardless of altitude. I've gotten so used to flying the iEFIS and having a true air speed indication, the two have converged in my little bitty mind. I think this question is even on the Basic Airman Knowledge test (I probably made that up too). My only excuse is that I started mixing GPS speed with IAS, and that I'm getting dumber by the day... Mark Langford m...@n56ml.com http://www.n56ml.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> stall speed
Bob Russell wrote: > What are realistic stall speeds with flaps? As Larry said, you'll want to go to altitude and stall it several times to get the "indicated" stall speed, because airspeed indicators are notoriously inaccurate at low speeds...even the fancy new electronic versions that I've used are off at the lower end of the spectrum. For example, N891JF stalls "hard" (nose over) at about 36 mph indicated, and that's on the MGL iEFIS. This isn't far from what Jim Faughn reported in his "how to land a KR" treatise, but those are indicated. GPS stall speed is closer to the low fifties, at the altitudes that I practice stalls at. If you are asking what's the difference in stall speed with "plans-built" flaps, my guess would be about two mph, three mph at the most, based on my experience with the much larger flaps on N56ML. KR2S N56ML stalls at 57 mph with barn door flaps, 62 mph clean at "average" loading conditions. KR2 N891JF stalls slightly slower, and even the belly board drops stall speed 1.5-2 mph. These are all GPS speeds, taken on calm days in two directions probably at 4000' or so, so it'll be a little less nearer to sea level...which you don't want to do. You can extrapolate it though...about a 2% difference per thousand feet. You probably already know this though. More stall speeds are listed at http://www.krnet.org/kr-info.html , although their accuracy is not assured. Speaking of which, nobody's sent me information for a newly minted airplane for probably five years. No new KRs are flying for five years? Please do some testing and send me your numbers... Mark Langford m...@n56ml.com http://www.n56ml.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Archives
>> Is there a new link to the archives? The new KRnet email archive is at https://www.mail-archive.com/krnet@list.krnet.org/. I've had problems accessing it from work, likely because they think it's a malware site or something, so there may be issues still, but we're working on it. Mark Langford m...@n56ml.com http://www.n56ml.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Archives
Robert Russell wrote: > Is there a new link to the archives? I keep getting a not found message when > I click on the link at the KRNet Page. There is a new archive link now. I'll update the website tonight. The Tugantek archive has been down for months, and we're unsure if it'll ever be back up. Tom's been notified, but hasn't managed to get it back up yet. John Bouyea stepped up to the plate and reformatted a LOT of email files to get us all the way back to 2003, so there should be 14 years of KRnet email in the archive now, and we have a few left to load, back into the late 90's. I'll fix the links tonight. Mark Langford, Harvest, AL ML "at" N56ML.com www.N56ML.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Tailwheel assembly
Phil Matheson wrote: > I have a glass round tailwheel spring from Steve glover where do I get the tailwheel assembled to fit that spring. Does it not have a steel insert embedded in the end that is about 3/4" thick to bolt the plans version of the tailwheel bracket to? That's how the one is on Jim Faughn's plane. I'll get you a picture of it... Mark Langford m...@n56ml.com http://www.n56ml.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Pitch sensitivity
Kayak Chris wrote: > with all this talk about pitch sensitivity, one common mention is > using forward CG. What is up with that? My last plane really liked aft > CG (within the envelope obviously) and flew MUCH better there. What > happens to a KR at aft CG? You had an odd bird if it flew better with an aft CG than a forward CG. Could you go into further detail about "how" it flew better with a forward CG than an aft CG? See http://www.n56ml.com/wb/index.html for more on the KR aft CG, which I'm pretty sure is common to most aircraft. This story should scare you...it certainly scared me! Also see http://www.askacfi.com/5222/forward-cg-vs-aft-cg-which-is-better-and-why.htm as a starting point. With the CG at the absolute front of the limit, my KR2 does require a trim tab on the elevator or it'll dive pretty quickly. I didn't set it up that way, but that's the way it is. Almost everything I installed after I bought it was to move it aft, but it wasn't enough to move it very far. My KR2S is usually flown right in the middle of the range, maybe slightly aft, but even with heavy passengers there was not a huge difference. Go really aft though, and you are living very dangerously, as discussed at http://www.n56ml.com/wb/index.html ... Mark Langford m...@n56ml.com http://www.n56ml.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
Re: KR> Interesting Crankshaft
Matt Quimby wrote: >> I finally got the prop hub off my crankshaft. Noticed something interesting - there’s no keyway to align the prop hub. Is anyone else running a setup like that? Should that be a red flag, or a reason to consider just starting with a new crankshaft and prop hub? << The keyway is only there to force the pulley back onto the same orientation after removal. This is so your timing marks don't get out of whack after you remove and replace the hub. Finding an accurate TDC is not as easy as you might think, without direct perpendicular access to the piston crown. The screwdriver down the sparkplug hole isn't real accurate. The taper is what transfers the force from crank to hub... Mark Langford m...@n56ml.com http://www.n56ml.com ___ Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. Please see LIST RULES and KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html. see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change options To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@list.krnet.org
KR> Pesak and Sylvester KR2Ss
Both Robert Pesak and Mike Sylvester have recently finished up and been flying their KR2S's, but they didn't make it to the KR Gathering. The three of us got together today down at Mike's airport, which is practically part of the Talladega Speedway in Alabama. We talked a while, joked a bit, froze our buns off, and then flew some. A picture of each (and a link to each of their planes) is located at the top of the KRnet webpage at http://www.krnet.org/. These are two very fine KRs, and will be in serious contention for the awards at the 2017 Gathering at Lee's Summit, Missouri in September. Also see enclosed photo with Robert on the left, Mike in the middle, and Rusty (local Bearhawk/Rebel owner. -- Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 161210_034m.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 141738 bytes Desc: not available URL: <http://list.krnet.org/mailman/private/krnet_list.krnet.org/attachments/20161210/6a764b90/attachment.jpg>
KR> Hand propping VW, release mechanism
Mike Taglieri wrote: > Actually, that drawing is right here someplace, because I asked the > same question years ago and someone responded by posting it. So it > must be in the KRnet archives. It was originally in the KR > Newsletter. All of the KR Newsletters are at http://www.krnet.org/newsletter/ , and they are text searchable. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> MGL, iPad, iFly, Stratux, etc.
OK, I pounded out some thoughts on many of today's subjects. It's rough and incomplete, but a start at ventilating on several topics. See http://www.n56ml.com/n891jf/panel/#ifly for details. Oh, and to make another point, I can still get in the KR and fly it (like today, five touch and goes at three different airports), despite my endless whining about the iEFIS...ADS-b or not. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Mgl, dynon,Garmin
Stef wrote: > So what is your experiance with the Dynon or MGL. Whatever you do, do NOT waste your money on an MGL iEFIS. I've been meaning to write this up for several months, but I know it would take me many weeks to list the many hardware and software failures that I've had with mine. I will attempt a "short list" tonight. I agree with Rudi that the previous MGL units we apparently good, but the iEFIS is an exception. Please consider the lowly iPad or iPad Mini. These things are bullet proof, and can run all kinds of apps with thousands of users and very well developed software. I bought a practically new Mini from ebay for $154 last week. More tonight... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Useful Load
I should have included this one too: http://www.experimentalaircraft.info/flight-planning/aircraft-stall-speed-1.php Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Useful Load
"Kayak Chris" wrote: > What does "utility category" mean? Google for "utility category aircraft", and https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Load_factor_(aeronautics) is at the top. Utility means 4G load factor, and Normal means 6G. > Where is this formula, not sure what to look for (I tried) I googled "aircraft stall speed equation example", and the one at the top is https://www.quora.com/How-do-you-calculate-the-stall-speed-of-an-aircraft and the third one on the list is https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=789635 For the lift coefficient of the "new" airfoil (Cl), see the wing lift polar diagram at http://www.krnet.org/as504x/design.html , which shows it to be about 1.55 at stall angle of attack. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Useful Load
John Lange wrote: >>> Is there a way to increase the useful load by 50 pounds? > Sorry, we are looking at a KR2 that is partially built. Has > fuselage, tail and stabilizer built, no start on the wings yet. Lots of folks have built KRs and simply placarded them at 1100 pounds or more. There's evidence that the spars and the rest of the plane can handle that easily. It's up to you, as the builder, to declare the gross weight when you get it inspected and fill out the airworthiness paperwork. You could also build it by the plans and consider it "utility category". If you wanted to make it "Light Sport" compatible, you could add several inches to the wing length to get the gross weight to wing area ratio to fit that category. We only miss the stall speed by one or two knots. If you add 50 pounds to the gross weight, it might be a foot added to each wing. Check the web for the equation, which involves lift coefficient of the wing, air density, gross weight, and wing area. Plenty of ways around this problem, but don't fall into the trap of "beefing" anything up. This plane doesn't need it, unless you hang a very heavy engine off the firewall, and even then, the reinforcements required are minimal. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Useful Load
John Lange wrote: > Is there a way to increase the useful load by 50 pounds? Is this question about an airplane being built, or already finished and registered? KR2 or KR2S? Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Wing tank building material
Mike Stirewalt wrote: > Please pardon my Trump comments ML. I know these kinds of > observations are out of bounds and I won't do it any more, nor follow > up on anything I've written here today. Let's put an end to politics on this list right now! This kind of crap does nothing but offend exactly half the people on this list, and serves no other purpose than to divide us further. I unsubscribed a very good friend a few years ago who started his rant with "I hope this doesn't get me unsubscribed...". He was gone as soon as I read that, and still is. Anybody that follows in Mike's steps is "moderated"...that means you can't post for a while, if ever. You all know the rules, and if you don't, please read the rules again, at http://www.krnet.org/info.html ... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> wing tank building material
Jeff Scott wrote: > People on the KRNet make a fuss about using only vinyl-ester, but > unless you are planning to run alcohol contaminated fuel, epoxy tanks > really aren't an issue... I've learned not to trust auto fuel of any kind if you buy it from an "off-brand" establishment, and that's often where auto fuel without ethanol comes from (around here, anyway). For a while there were no "reputable" stations (the big names, with actual quality control standards) that sold ethanol-free fuel in my area, so I had to get it in places that gave me the creeps. The last time I bought fuel for the Swift (which has an auto-fuel STC), I filled several 6 gallon cans with some stuff from the local "no-name" ethanol free gas station...and boy did that stuff stink! I should have quit when I noticed the smell, but wasn't entirely sure where the smell was coming from, until I was pouring it in the Swift the next day...very funky smelling fuel. I should have drained it right then, but I didn't think it would be a problem. Next time I came in the hangar that funky smell was overwhelming, the two main 1.25" fuel hoses that connect the wing tanks to the sump were weeping fuel, and the hoses were mushy and failing. I found the tanks empty, and after I removed the hoses later, I found what you see in the photo below...two "exploded" hoses. I don't know what chemical was in that gasoline, but it was not rubber friendly! I suspect "plug gas", which a no-man's-land volume of petrochemical brew that results from the pipeline transport system where two adjacent loads of fuel get combined into something you don't want to run in your car, much less your airplane. It's cheap though, so the no-name no-conscience fuel establishments buy it, and you're screwed! My point is...stick to reputable gas stations, especially if they turn over a lot of fuel. That's a good sign. I've run over 5000 gallons of Raceway auto-fuel through N56ML's vinylester tanks, much of which contained ethanol, and never had any problem, not even water. I have heard lots of stories about various epoxies with ethanol-tolerance "issues" though. See enclosed photo. It's a sobering thought. Fortunately I never had the chance to run the thing, so I don't have to fear carburetor or pump damage. I've since replaced the hoses, and at the moment it's full of 100LL. And the answer to the next question is "yes, I'm still working on getting it back in the air, maybe this spring..." Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: exploded_hose.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 84564 bytes Desc: not available URL: <http://list.krnet.org/mailman/private/krnet_list.krnet.org/attachments/20161113/404bbccc/attachment.jpg>
KR> Project for sale
Phill Hill wrote: > Lack of a Tech Counselor is one of the major problems I have... I never had a Tech Counselor...he showed up once early on and confessed that his specialty was aluminum aircraft, my workmanship looked fine, and that I should forge on without him. The FAA did away with any kind of inspection (other than the final airworthiness inspection) many years ago. It should be noted, however, that three TC inspections are a bonus when it comes to getting insurance, but I was still able to get insurance, even with only a few hours of tailwheel training, and a hundred hours of flight time. I am sure I'm not the only one to have built a KR without a Tech Counselor, and in fact am probably in the majority. With resources like the Internet, KRnet, and all the other experimental aircraft related forums, videos, and websites, I see no reason why any reasonably capable person cannot build and fly a KR without issue. I'm sure you've had other obstacles in your way, but I don't think you can blame the lack of EAA support. I gave up on my EAA chapter many years ago, and some will argue that I should have helped to improve it, rather than bailing. But I chose my battle, and opted to help the Experimental world directly through KRnet. Apparently it's not been enough. I'm sorry it didn't work out for you. It's always a shame to see dreams evaporate, along with the time and money invested. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> What is your KR2's tailwheel weight with 2 on board?
I'll correct myself on what the plans call for...it's a 3.5" tailwheel. Although most folks are using 4", there's a wide variety on KRs. Before you buy a new 4" tailwheel, see http://www.n56ml.com/kgear.html , especially the part about grease in the bearings. If you want grease in the bearings, be very careful where you order it from! Otherwise you'll wonder why the bearings are completely shot after a few months... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> What is your KR2's tailwheel weight with 2 on board?
"Ryan" wrote: > What kind of tailwheel does your plane have? I have a solid 3" wheel. I doubt most people can answer this question to your satisfaction, because it requires three people (pilot, passenger, and somebody to read the scale), and the huge variables are the weights of the passenger and pilot. Other than giving a general idea of whether or not you are even in the ballpark of having a flyable plane, there is not real reason to know this anyway. But the accurate and right way to do this is to start with the weight and balance spreadsheet for your plane, add the pilot and passenger weights of your choice, and then the weight on the tailwheel will fall out of the spreadsheet. But that's not the information you are looking for...what you really care about is whether or not the airplane is within the flyable limits of the aircraft. For more on this, see http://www.n56ml.com/wb/index.html , on how to do a weight and balance in general, including an Excel spreadsheet. This process is also covered in the KR2 Plans, along with a blank calculation page. By the way, I may be confused about what I'm replying to. The subject is "What is your KR2's tailwheel weight with 2 on board?" but the question within is "What kind of tailwheel does your plane have?" I have a solid 3" wheel." So I'll tell you that the plans call for a 4" solid tailwheel on both my planes, and that's what most of us are flying. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> What are most KR-2's inside fuselage width?
Rob Schmitt wrote: >It is definitely tight for two full sized adults. I was looking for a photo I took at the KR Gathering in 2001, to illustrate how tight the KR2 (and KR2S) are if you build it per the plans. Especially the KR2 with the bubble canopy, which forces both pilot and passenger to lean in a bit to dodge the edge of the bubble. That's easily dealt with solo, as you can just slide over a tad in the seat, although a center stick limits that. See image below, which shows Rob Schmitt in the passenger seat of Terry Chizak's KR2, taken from above by some idiot hanging out the missing back door of Larry Flesner's Tripacer. Also, note how "short-coupled" the KR2 is...the horizontal stabilizer is very close to the wing, hence the pitch sensitivity... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 01092324_sardines.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 98088 bytes Desc: not available URL: <http://list.krnet.org/mailman/private/krnet_list.krnet.org/attachments/20161105/3ab960b9/attachment.jpg>
KR> Speed Brake split flap design
Paul Visk wrote: >> If you go back to the 2015 gathering pic's. You'll see Dan design. It's probably exactly what you want. I think his plan is still for sale. << To elaborate, Dan Pritchard's plane has flaps with a "Fowler" type deployment mechanism, but I didn't notice that they were also continuous across the bottom as a belly board. Looking at the third photo down from the top of http://www.krnet.org/mmv/, it's possible that it does, but I have no photos showing that. Maybe somebody else does, and can post it. The best photo I have of that (that didn't get into the Gathering photos) is enclosed, and I don't believe it shows the wing flaps being connected to the belly board, at least not externally. That's a relief, because I thought about doing that, but wasn't wild about the geometry or linkage mechanism, so went went with larger outboard flaps instead. Remember, there's a limit of about 200k on photos, so don't bother sending a 5MB file from your phone...it won't make it. Note that the enclosed photo is both large, and detailed. That's done with FREE software called "Irfanview" (among many others), and is pretty easy once you figure it out. Google is your friend here... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: 150906_s005.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 97611 bytes Desc: not available URL: <http://list.krnet.org/mailman/private/krnet_list.krnet.org/attachments/20161104/6cc626ef/attachment.jpg>
KR> De-registered Aircraft
Thanks for all the clarifications...many of which are different, depending on FSDO (which is not surprising). It would only make sense that there is SOME way to get this accomplished, although it may not be easy. See below message from Robert Kidd... ___ I bought a Falcon XP project that had been de-registered (N536AA, experimental exhibition, de-registered 1996). DAR told me it was ?dead, could be used for parts only?. I called Oklahoma and talked to registration. They said no problem, we do this all the time, just send in a photo and letter describing situation, along with FAA Bill of Sale. I got Bill of Sale signed by last registered owner, sent photos of parts, new registration form, they wrote back and said it needed to be put together to be an ?airplane?. So I mocked it up and took photos. They registered it. I finished putting it together and contacted local FSDO to get Airworthiness Cert issued. They wanted me to use a DAR, but he was $450, so I asked if they could do it, discussion about schedules, told him I was willing to wait, be flexible, whatever it took. (FSDO did contact previous registered owner and asked him some questions about it. I was at least the 4^th owner after he had de-registered it). Had A do condition inspection prior to FSDO staff doing inspection, FSDO came, found 4 or 5 issues they wanted corrected, I fixed those, they came back, issued new AW cert and operational limitations (because it is exhibition, I had to provide program letter at time of AW issuance). 10 hour fly off for phase 1, within designated area, log book signoff to exit phase 1, and I?m flying. 136 hours on it over a couple of years now, just coming up on 2^nd anniversary with it. It can be done. Robert Kidd Logan Utah
KR> Airworthiness Certificate cancelled or surrendered
I recently saw a KR for sale that was "almost ready to fly". After looking at it I looked up the tail number and the plane has been "deregistered", as well as the Airworthiness Certificate. I've always thought that a deregistered aircraft was "dead in the water" but according to something I found on the web, there is apparently a path back IF the Airworthiness Certificate hasn't been "surrendered". I needed clarification on this, and others may need it also. I'm too lazy to look up the official regulation on this, but I'm sure it's not too hard to find. From a thread on Vans Aircraft: "Has the original airworthiness been surrendered? If so, the aircraft is "dead in the water". Once the airworthiness certificate for an experimental amateur-built aircraft has been surrendered, there is no path back. If the airworthiness is still valid, then no problem. It can be put back into service by going through a new phase I test program. No one but the original builder is eligible for the repairman certificate." Just FYI... -- Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> first flight details.
Mike Sylvester wrote: >>After a lot of discussion, We are blaming pilot error. While I was cruising at reduced power setting, I had leaned the engine, I think I had more throttle than the lean jet could handle when I tried to extend the down wind or possibly carb icing.<< Probably too lean...I'd keep it close to full rich unless it's stumbling or something, until you can get it to altitude and see how far out you can lean it before a cylinder starts missing. Are you sure you're getting full travel on the mixture lever with your control knob? It didn't seem like enough travel, but that's all dependent on the geometry, so maybe so. I really doubt it could ice up that quickly, especially with the temps we've had lately. Anytime the engine starts stumbling, my number one suspect is mixture. This is where one glance at the mixture meters usually clears the matter up in a microsecond... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Scat ducting
Stef den Boer wrote: > I have seen someone from the KR group used scat ducting at the Exhaust, just > from the cylinders , I cant find it, and will it work? If you mean from the engine's combustion exhaust, no SCAT ducting won't work for that. SCAT, SEAT, and the other two varieties are based on silicone or neoprene fabric and has a maximum temperature that is probably a third as high as engine exhaust temperature. There's a good description of the varieties at the bottom of http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/scat.php . We normally use it for carb heat and cabin heat applications, carrying heat off an exhaust "stove" to the carb or cabin. See the photo at the bottom for one place that I used it as a carb heat source. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> PICTURES
Bill Weir wrote: > Obviously I don't understand the system. A message comes through from Joe > Horton and then the info that the non-text part has been scrubbed and then > everyone seems to have seen the picture. How do I get into the game? I got the picture also, and have never heard anyone complain of not receiving a photo that was replaced by anything resembling "scrubbed". I suspect you have some kind of overactive anti malware stuff running, or your ISP is doing you the "favor" of saving you from potentially dangerous JPG files (which are pretty rare, I'm sure). While we're on the subject of pictures, I'd like to remind people that there is a limit of 250kb for messages, which means you can't send a photo over about 200kb. You can't just take a photo with a digital camera or smart phone and send it to the link without thinking...they are quote often several Mb (which far exceeds the limit), and the jerk moderator isn't going to approve them, so learn how to resize (smaller) and compress your images before you send them to 800 people, or get a free "dropbox" account, upload the photos, and send the link to 800 people instead. Thanks, Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Training Aircraft
Victor Taylor wrote: >> It might be that we could set my airplane up for dual training when it is done. I already have dual sticks and pedals in it. I don't have dual throttles but that might be possible to add.<< I agree that having someone willing to give newly minted KR pilots an opportunity to get some stick time, and more importantly, a few landings before trying it themselves, would be a great idea. Troy Petteway gave me two hours of KR2 time before my first flight (required by the insurance company), and it was invaluable training. Bill Clapp was willing to do the same, but neither has a KR these days. The KR Gathering is usually a good place to do this, as those who are nearing first flight are accommodated if at all possible. As for dual throttle, I don't think that's a show stopper, even if the throttle is located on the other side of the cockpit. It's a small panel, and the trainee should be able to reach it if needed, and if not, the instructor can handle it. Thanks for bringing this up Victor... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> KR2s For Sale - Oregon
Dan Pritchard wrote: >> You can see lots of greatphoto shots (thanks to Mark L.) on the 2015 >> McMinnville Oregon KR Gathering site.<< And the link is http://www.krnet.org/mmv/ Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Hm, canopy again...
Also, see http://www.n56ml.com/kcf.html if you haven't already. It will probably answer a lot of your Dragonfly canopy questions... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Hm, canopy again...
Matt Quimby wrote: >> Any of you guys that used Dragonfly canopies, can you please tell me how you made it work?<< I made the canopy frame before I made either front or aft deck, just so I could get that transition from canopy to those decks seamless looking, and I think I succeeded nicely (see the two photos at the bottom of http://www.n56ml.com/ ). Jim Hill put a Dragonfly canopy on his otherwise stock shaped KR2, and there are some photos of it at the top of http://www.n56ml.com/jhill.html that show one way to put a Dragonfly canopy on a KR2. It looks like he cut it back significantly to fit his plane, and I'm not sure if this is a stock aft deck or not, but knowing him, it was probably scratch built. I think Jim was either the first or one of the first to put a Dragonfly canopy on a KR2. The sides actually curve in a bit at the bottom, and gives excellent visibility when compared to the KR2 bubble canopy. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> New airfoil on old style spars question
Kayak Chris wrote: > I have a kr2 plans built boat stage with outer spars made and all > the wafs attached. > > Does the new style airfoil match the spars positions? What changes would be > needed to the shape of the spars of any (shaved down, chamfered etc) > ? Go check the airfoil templates at http://www.krnet.org/as504x/templates.html and compare the spar thicknesses shown in the templates to your existing spars. Adding material is easy, and there is likely some room for some removal but I'm not about to sign up for figuring out how much. The goal was to fit perfectly on the KR2S. I will confess to not having checked the KR2, which has different sweep than the KR2S. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Aileron Rigging - bellcranks and push pull cables
Oh, and I forgot push-pull-cables. They can be bad news, and heavy is the least of it. The more curves there in the housings, the more slop you'll have as they take up the space between cable and housing, and the friction is much higher than a pulley system. There's a very good reason why the vast majority of aircraft use pull-pull cables, and it's less friction and virtually no slop. I have first hand experience on my "work project" for the last six years. A young engineer chose push-pull cables, and laying out on a table, they were "friction free". Install them, add a few curves, and it becomes a nightmare. And the higher load you put on them, the higher the friction goes. That doesn't really happen with pull-pull cables. We are changing back to what I recommended in the beginning...aircraft-type pull-pull cables. Granted, for straight, short cables, from stick to bellcrank, that'll probably work, and have the advantage of the ability to land if one side fails, but I don't know of a single KR (and very few other aircraft) that have had that problem. Give it a try though, and let us know how it works out. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Aileron Rigging - bellcranks and push pull cables
Tony King wrote: > But I'm pretty sure using push-pull cables with no > bellcranks would eliminate any differential action of the ailerons. > It might be possible to get some of that back by doing something like > what Mark Langford did with his ailerons (where the front edge sticks > up into the airflow as the aileron goes down) . I guess my question > really is what effect is that likely to have on a KR? Yep, you'll need a bellcrank if you want differential ailerons, and the plans version does that. Any kind of bellcranks works though...it's just the geometry of the hole pattern (which I'm sure you know). Frise ailerons work fine too. Either one does the job, but I chose to do a little of both, and it works great, as the only time I need to touch the rudder pedals is on takeoff and during windy landings or a slip. But Larry Flesner will be quick to tell you that the stock differential ailerons work fine too, just like they are, and that the best way to keep the ball centered in a KR is to simply keep your feet away from the pedals, whether straight ahead or in a turn...it works great! There's more on Frise ailerons buried in the page at http://www.n56ml.com/owings.html , but you might get lost in there. I don't recognize the young kid in those photos though... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> new airfoil modifications
Kayak Chris wrote: > Dumb question, can I assume this suggestion applies to the kr1 kr1.5 > etc (all kr variants) as well? Probably so. Few people build KR1's anymore (it's usually a KR2S that's narrowed a bit), so nobody's built a KR1 with the new airfoil, but it is interchangeable with the RAF48, but with more efficient performance. I shouldn't even have said "new KR2"having flown KR2S and the KR2 for hundreds of hours each, and the fact that building an S is almost exactly the same labor and cost as a KR2, I think you'd be crazy to build a new KR2 when the KR2S is so much better. See more on this kind of stuff at http://www.n56ml.com/kopinion.html ... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> new airfoil modifications
KRnetHeads, At the Gathering, it was brought up that a downside to the "new airfoil" is that the aileron bellcrank has to be modified (due to the thinner airfoil cross section at the bellcrank location, I assume). One look at that bellcrank was enough to tell me that I needed something entirely different, so I did it my own way anyway (well documented at http://www.n56ml.com/owings.html, but not really relevant to my point). To me, the advantages of a wing with less drag, longer range, higher speeds, longer glide distance, and similar stall characteristics out-weigh the advantage of "just follow the plans" when it comes to the bellcrank. A lot of folks have opted for the new airfoil and managed to alter the bellcrank to work successfully, so would those that have, please post a link as to how they did it? This should remove any issue with building the new wing, for those who are concerned. My guess is that the result was simpler and more elegant than the bellcrank shown in the plans. The old newsletters show several ways to improve on the old bellcrank, so I'm not the first guy to think it was a bit convoluted. Also mentioned at the gathering was that there was no real discussion of the differences between the three versions of the airfoil, so I edited that to point out the it's all about thickness-to-chord length ratio. See http://www.krnet.org/as504x (near the bottom) for that, and even more at http://www.krnet.org/as504x/templates.html . I think it's pretty safe to say that if you are building a new KR2 or KR2S, you should be using the new airfoil. Templates are free and located at the bottom of the previous link. With many years of "testing" by lots of KR pilots, it is well proven at this point. -- Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> EAA recognizes the KR Gathering
See below, which also has a link to KRnet's website! http://www.eaa.org/en/eaa/eaa-news-and-aviation-news/news/09-22-2016-successful-kr-gathering-in-mount-vernon-il?mkt_tok=eyJpIjoiTW1FNVpXWXhPR1JqWTJWbCIsInQiOiJaQ2ZzOHNOYmVuTnVBOVhaTSs3V040QkMzVmRmOGRuSHB5bUxmVE16TmdtQ2dodjR2UmVkSkozVHp2MExiZXdSMXNBSWYzaG5xZlY1cGxRVlh2TmREb3h5blQ0VUZ4TTEzR3BYK0M0b2NYWT0ifQ%3D%3D -- Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> 2016 Gathering photos
I finished my 2016 KR Gathering website last night, and it's at http://www.krnet.org/mvn2016/ . I sifted through about 700 pictures to get it down to only 75 or so. Let me know if there are any mistakes. This might be the first time I show up in any of the pictures! One more thing...some of y'all probably saw my engine quit three times immediately after starting, which is more than just a little disconcerting, especially since it usually fires up immediately and purrs. I was sitting there wondering what the problem was, when suddenly the fuel pump started running...it had gone intermittent on me, and stopped and started several times in just a few seconds. I flipped on the backup pump and all was well, and didn't skip a beat all the way home. I now have a new pump, and will install it this weekend...if I can reach the dang thing way up under panel... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Research-Gathering history
Paul Visk wrote: >Can someone come up with what year the first KR Gathering was?Also, if you have a short thought that would fit into the story about this years gathering. The definitive, all-encompassing history of the KR and the Gathering are written in the KR Newsletters, available at http://www.krnet.org/newsletter/ . I'm guessing you already have them all downloaded. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> gathering
Oh, and I forgot Joe Horton won "Longest Distance", for flying 733 (statute) miles to the Gathering. He had to leave early due to inclement weather moving in, which would have prevent him from getting back home any earlier than Monday, if then. It was great to see Joe again, as well as everybody else in the KR family... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> gathering
Joe Horton wrote: >> How about a report of events and banquet since I had to get outta there early Friday...<< Awards were: Best Paint - Joe Weber Best Firewall Forward - Brad Stone Best Panel and Interior - Mark Langford Best KR - Mark Langford People's Choice - Joe Weber I took 700 pictures (which is how I "remembered" the awards), and will get a web page done sometime in the next week, with captions to detail what went on. I think it was a great time for all. Rob Schmitt flew at least three guys, if not more, one of which was working toward a first flight soon. It was another great Gathering, despite the low turnout due to weather. Charlie Becker gave a very detailed and informative presentation on the certification paperwork to get an Experimental airplane signed off, as well as the Repairman's Certificate. Scott Wick gave an interesting "History of Wicks Aircraft" presentation. One of the things he mentioned was that the US gov't forbid them from making organs in order to conserve wood, so they temporarily went into the aircraft business building wings for some aircraft, as well other war support equipment. There was also a presentation by Stewart Systems paint. I missed that one, given my lack of concern about painting matters. Thanks to Joe Horton and Mark Jones for leaving early, as well as Robert Pesak and Mike Sylvester for not bringing their planes. Otherwise, I surely wouldn't have won Best KR! Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Gathering
I got an email from a new member from the Michigan City, the Michigan/Indiana border (KMGC). He can't make the Gathering, but requests somebody in a KR drop in to visit him, as he plans to by a KR2 next week, and would like to sit in or fly in one. If interested, email me and I'll send his phone number. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Tire pressure and Slime
Sid Wood wrote: > Dick specifically shows how to avoid pinching the tube on the > split rims. No need for slime. I'm quite aware of how to assemble a tube into a tire with loads of talc to avoid a pinched tube. I haven't pinched a tube yet, and I've replaced 16 tires on the KRs so far, usually reusing the tubes. As I said in my post, I learned the secret to avoiding pinched tubes (after initial installation) is to keep them aired up to above 25 psi (or avoid really hard landings). I added Slime to that tube because it had a slow leak and over a month it would drop down from 50 to 25 psi, and become susceptible to pinched tubes again, and the Slime put an end to it without me having to take the tire off and replace the tube. With this ancient brake setup, removing the wheel is a huge pain the the butt and would take at least an hour, not to mention jacking up the plane, which I don't like to do either. I started putting Slime in my mountain bike tires about ten years ago, after picking up a thorn or two every year and having to patch a tube on the road or walk home to get the truck. I put Slime in those tubes ten years ago, and haven't had a flat tire since...nor do I need to top off the tires nearly as often. My apologies though...I should have kept that to myself, rather than concern the list with it. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Tire pressure and Slime
It's been a while since this subject came up, but I've had two flat tires on landing due to a pinched tube, and learned years ago that if I need to keep a minimum of 25 psi in my tires...I fill them up to 50 PSI and check them every couple of months, especially as the temps start dropping toward winter. I also put Slime in the tires to minimize the chance of any kind of air leak doing that to me again. It seems to have worked out fine, as I've not had a flat tire since. There was some concern voiced on the net that my tires would be unbalanced, but I've seen no sign of that at all. I put all new tubes and tires on 1JF when I refurbed it, and it's had a slow leak ever since on one side. About a month ago I put some Slime in it, and it's still holding 50 psi. Something to consider. See y'all at the Gathering... -- Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Not trimming replies! - SOLUTION
for your basic idiot...A through D above. If you ask me about this thread at the Gathering, you'd be well advised to hand me a beer first... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com >
KR> ENOUGH!!!!!! Rules enclosed....again
st plain don't have any place on KRnet. This includes messages dealing with politics, nationalism, or religion. There are plenty of email lists where you can flood your email inbox with warm, touchy-feely messages from the heart. KRNet is NOT going to become one of them! I have already thrown one of my best friends off the list for doing this, mainly because he started the sentence with "I'll probably get thrown off the list for this...". He was espousing his political view...exactly the same as mine, but the rules are the rules, and even I abide by them. Don't throw down the gauntlet, especially when you know better! 15) Change the subject if the thread starts to deviate from the original intent. This makes searching the archive much more productive and far less time-consuming for future builders who are in search of information. 16) Please read ALL of your messages before replying to ANY of them. Why? Because much of the time, your reply will have already been answered by somebody else (or lots of people), and your reply may just be redundant, or even worse, already disproved by somebody that knows more about it than you do! 17) The best way to send photos to the list is to put them on a website somewhere else and send the link to the list. If that's over your head or you only have one or two, you can send them direct to the list, as long as the total size doesn't not exceed ~200k (a total of 250k, but your text and "encoding" will cost you some of that). That's likely only one or two pictures. This means you will likely have to shrink it down to something reasonable like 800x600, AND compress the image 50% using something like IRFANVIEW, a free image processor available online. If it's oversize you'll get a message that the moderator is considering it, but the same guy that wrote this is the moderator, so you can guess what the answer is. If you can't find an image processor and can't post it online and send a link, you likely should not be building an airplane either. It's really not that tough. I've posted a LOT of 70k images on the list and on my website that are quite acceptable. Surely you can do it with three times that allotment. 18) Those who violate these suggestions may find themselves wondering why they don't get KRNet mail anymore. I reserve the right to throw anybody overboard that I see fit... -- Every couple of days I get a message saying somebody can't post to the list, but are receiving them just fine. There are several possible causes: 1) You just set up a "new" computer and the default is "normally" to send all email as HTML. The server rejects these, but doesn't bother to notify you, so you simply don't get through. The remedy is to go into your "tools", "options", and "send" (in Outlook Express) and change your "mail sending format" to "plain text". That'll fix it. 2) You just set up a "new computer" and you incorrectly typed your email address in the "reply to" field while setting up Outlook Express. This will lead to all kind of problems, but you won't be able to post because your reply-to address doesn't match the address from which you're subscribed, so it fails. Best policy is to leave the "reply to" field blank. The only folks that need that are spammers or others who don't want you to know how to reply to their messages. 3) You're trying to post from work or some other email account from which you are not subscribed. The list should inform you that you are not a member of the list, and that should be your first clue. Some people get irrate, convinced that their God-given right to post has been revoked by the moderator jerk, and I get nasty emails. The easy answer is to join from both accounts (send a message to krnet-join at list.krnet.org from the "excluded" account, and set one of them to receive no posts, so you don't get them twice. 4) One more reason would be if your ISP is stupid like Netzero, and tells you your email address is "somethingorother at somewhere.COM", but your return address is actually "somethingorother at somewhere.NET" instead. Same problem as number 3...your subscribed address needs to match your reply-to address, or it's not gonna work. 5) If you suddenly stop receiving email from the list entirely, and you've done nothing stupid with your email accounts, the first place to look is your ISP's spam filter. That'll kill everything from the list in a heartbeat. It's happened to me, and I'm the list owner. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Firewall
Paul Visk wrote: >> Fiberfrax Firewall Material from Wicks and a piece of stainless steel sheet .016" thick. I tried to find some .005" SS shim stock, but couldn't find it wide enough.<< I couldn't find any either, and bought the .016" also. When I took it out of the box, it amazed me how heavy it was. It didn't pass my "light enough to fly" test, so I kept looking. I eventually found some .004" or .005", sold by Rand Robinson! I don't see it on nVAero's website, however. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> RANGE
Bill Weir wrote: > The moral of the story is that if one is building a KR > to provide as much room for fuel as possible. I think you meant to say "The moral of the story, IF you are planning on flying around the world, is to provide as much room for fuel as possible". Most of us are quite happy with 15-20 gallons. I flew non-stop back from OSH to Alabama on 16 gallons of fuel one year (with a slight tailwind), averaging about 42 mpg. KR's are about the most fuel efficient airplanes in the world, so I would not make fuel storage my overarching mission requirement unless I had a really good reason... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Fuel gauges- senders
N56ML's header tank sending unit didn't work until I had about fifty hours on the plane...it had stuck to the film that results from the vinylester curing in the tank. Eventually it came lose during some rough air and started working, but even then, I continued to use a calibrated stick to check fuel each time I flew it, and I do the same with 891JF, despite having a totalizer and fuel gauge on it as well. The reason for this was reinforced when a guy with a C-210 was renting my hangar for a while, and lost 40 gallons of 100LL through a leaking fuel drain valve. I walked in the hangar a few days later and there was no sign or smell of fuel anywhere. So you can park it full (which I usually do also, to minimize water condensation), and still have an empty fuel tank next time you fly. Something to keep in mind. And of course, when you're calibrating your fuel dipstick should be calibrated to show fuel in the flying attitude, despite filling (and checking) it with the tail down (for tail draggers). Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> today's sunrise
I flew down to Mike Sylvester's place this morning to see his newly minted KR2S. Pretty awesome work! He was threatening a first flight early, so I had to take off at sunrise to get there, and stumbled across the great sunrise at the top of http://www.n56ml.com/sunsets/ . This is the kind of stuff that makes building a plane a lot more than "just" having a time machine! A good day all around... -- Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Landing Gear legs
Stan wrote: > I was looking in to the landing gear for a Kr2S > Would I be ahead to bend something like this in the press brake or go > the Deli Gear route? The Diehl gear consists of two cast aluminum spar brackets, two lower axle attach brackets, and two Scotchply fiberglass gear legs connecting the two. I don't have personal experience with the aluminum gear legs, which is why I haven't piped up on this until now. But I do know somebody that had it, Troy Petteway. I believe his plane used the normal spar castings, but he used aluminum gear legs. He got them from Steve Bennett. That way there's no bending involved. He did manage to break one in an engine-out landing on curvy road, but I have also broken a Scotchply gear in a similar situation. My first landing was 5.5g's, so they were already proven to exceed the design parameters. It obviously works, but I wouldn't want to put a continuous aluminum gear leg under my plane unless I'd built a bunch of them and they tested with no failures (think minimum bend radius stuff), or somebody else had done the same. Grove Aircraft makes bent aluminum gear that is one piece, and I'm pretty sure Rand Robinson sold something similar, if not exactly that. See http://www.groveaircraft.com/landing_gear.html for plenty of options. They also sell aluminum gear legs that could be used with spar brackets. Troy's opinion was that the aluminum was more springy than the Scotchply, which has some slight amount more damping. That might have been a function of loading though. That's all I can offer you on that comparison...no real facts. See http://www.n56ml.com/kgear.html for more on what Diehl gear looks like. nvAero sells them now, as well as Scotchply gear legs. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Fwd: [CorvAircraft] KR2 project
Forwarded message. Do not contact me (Mark Langford) as I know nothing about it. Might be a decent source of parts...or not. From: Robert Gustafson at bobgustaf2 at gmail.com List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: Sat, Aug 27, 2016 at 12:38 PM Subject: my kr 32 i have a kr2 for sale the airplane is ready to fly but needs engine and a few other things to get it flying,i am 79 years old and no longer flying,i would like to sell this kr2 project , i hope you can help me. Bob Gustafson, email to bobgustaf2 at gmail.com
KR> O'brien brakes?
Has anybody successfully used O'brien brakes (photo enclosed) on a KR, or anything else? Thanks, -- Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: obrien_brakes.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 19226 bytes Desc: not available URL: <http://list.krnet.org/mailman/private/krnet_list.krnet.org/attachments/20160827/50a55e5c/attachment.JPG>
KR> DPDT ignition and fuel pump switch
Larry Flesner wrote: > If that's the design, I'd certainly want a VERY RELIABLE "one" > switch. Is that the switch that failed on Mark (on the ground, > thankfully) that kept him from making the California trip? Yep, so I replaced it with an identical new Otto switch, also supposed to be good for 25,000 cycles at 16A at 28V, which failed while flying back from SNF a few months later. Since it's a DPDT (double pole double throw) switch, there was a fresh unused pair of poles available at a flip of the switch, and the prop didn't even even spin down before it fired back to life again. A bi-color LED next to the switch was my instant clue...when the bright green LED went out at the same time the ignition quit. I've since replaced that DPDT switch with a much higher quality Honeywell DPDT relay rated at 15A at 250VDC. That story is at http://www.n56ml.com/n891jf/panel/index.html#switches, with pictures of the fried contacts (and the pristine ones). The overall electrical system layout and schematic are at http://www.n56ml.com/electrical/index.html . Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> switch labeling
One more thing on this. The engine will continue to run for a few (maybe five) minutes with NO oil pressure. It would be a shame to have to put it in a field or in the woods because the fuel pump quit because oil pressure dropped below whatever the min oil pressure the switch breaks contact. Yea, I know, think of that and flip the switch...you hope! Trust me, it gets awful foggy when the prop stops. Also, oil pressure switches normally trigger a tiny light or an electronic circuit, and fuel pumps (Facets) draw about .8A. Make sure it has beefy contacts on it, and again...I hope you remember... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> switch labeling
Craig Williams wrote: > My second switch is to bypass all that and provide a ground to run > the pumps when priming and starting and if the oil pressure switch > was to fail. How would you label thatswitch? "Emergency Pump". You need it to be as clear as possible when you or the guy who flies it later needs it, and only has 2% of their wits about them due to the prop stopping! You realize that you won't have any fuel pressure until the engine turns over enough to trip the oil pressure switch, right? That's going to prolong starting. Personally, I'd use a VW fuel pump relay, which has a connection to the coil and powers the fuel pump during cranking and also disconnects it when the engine quits (crash). And for those who think they'll switch the pumps off before they crash, these things happen quickly and when I glided for 15 minutes into a beanfield, I not only didn't think to turn the pumps off, but I also didn't think to shut the fuel petcock off. Yep, I should of had a checklist for that! I was concentrating on getting the thing on the ground safely. There's more info on this setup at the bottom of http://www.n56ml.com/fuel/index.html ... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Speeds
Doran Jaffas wrote: > My question is simply this; On a stock retractable gear KR2 what is > the maximum safe continous safe real world operating speed assuming a > properly built aircraft? You didn't specify an engine, so I assume you mean airframe Vne, which is listed as 200 MPH in the plans (page 3 of my plans) and other promotional data. If you are talking about engines, then please see http://www.krnet.org/kr-info.html for a clue on that. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Oilite bushing insertion
Below is something I wrote for the "KROnline Newsletter" in 1996. There are more of these at http://www.krnet.org/kronline/, but many are missing photos (due to poor linkage practices, a server move, and my negligence toward fixing them). I've dug up the photo and enclosed it, but it's way over compressed. I could redo that photo now five times bigger and perfectly clear to have the same file size. See below. __ Oilite bearings are normally constructed of sintered bronze. Oilite is a commonly used brand name, but there are many sources. They are manufactured in a manner which leaves tiny voids throughout the structure, somewhat like a sponge. They are then thoroughly impregnated with oil, so that during use, oil is constantly released to keep the rotating parts lubricated. This continuous lubrication makes them ideally suited for KR tail surface hinges. Oil impregnated sintered bronze flange bearings are available in many different shapes and sizes, but the selections are slim down in the .1875" ID range. The bearings shown are actually made by slicing a longer bearing in half (Boston Gear #FB35-3). The flanged part has a 3/64" flange, and is cut so that the bearing extends 1/8" (full depth) into the larger of the two hinge channels. The remaining part of the bearing is then machined down to 1/8" length and is used on the inner 1" channel. Because there is no flange on the inner hinge, an aluminum or nylon spacer must be installed around the bolt as a positive means of preventing the spacer from slipping out of the hinge. Of course, you could also put another flanged bearing on the inner hinge, and cut the excess bearing away, or just buy a 1/8" long sleeve bearing for this location (Boston Gear #B25-1). Installation instructions vary, but the bearings are usually installed as an interference press of about .001" for this size. The press fit will compress the inner diameter somewhat, so the bore will then require reaming to the proper bolt diameter to provide a .001" running fit. Use a sharp reamer, as a dull one may smear the pores of the surface, effectively closing off the oil supply. Follow instructions provided by the bearing manufacturer. Of course, the instructions say to countersink the flange 3/64" so that it is flush with the surface. That would almost certainly require a machine shop, so they were simply left on the outside. Longer hinge bolts will be required. I?ve also heard that after assembly, you can soak the bearings in a 130-150 degree oil bath to replenish some of the oil lost during the machining process, but have never seen this as part of the installation instructions from a manufacturer. For the do-it-yourselfer, you could just drill the required 5/16" hole slightly large for a slip fit, and use "wicking" green Loctite 290 to hold the bearing in place. Loctite 290 is used when joining oily materials, and is well suited for this job as it wicks in between surfaces are are already assembled. Also, the flange will hold the outside, and the spacer will ensure that the inner bearings stay put. Also, note that tolerances on these bearings are not extremely tight, so treat each one as if it were different. It probably is. After a press fit installation, an AN3 bolt will probably not even fit in the hole, so expect to buy a 3/16" reamer for sure. Any local bearing emporium will have (or can order) oil impregnated sintered bronze bearings. I bought mine at an Invetech bearing store for about 50 cents each, with two required for each hinge (mine were cut in half, remember?) But if there are no local sources, one is Boston Gear at 14 Hayward Street, Quincy, MA 02171. They can be reached at (617)328-3300. There are photos of the finished hinged installed at http://www.n56ml.com/kvs.html. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Kr2s Engine?
"Stan" wrote: > Based on the above wouldn't the Corvair seem to be the better > choice? What is the advantage of the o200 vs the Corvair or the > Corvair over the o200? What is the time between overhaul on a > Corvair? The difference between the two boils down to the O-200 is a real airplane engine, designed for the job, with compromises to make it last. This includes lower compression for reduced stressed, and a more primitive carb for simplicity. The biggest thing with the O-200 is that it's purpose made for the job, with giant bearing near the prop to handle prop loads. The Corvair was not designed to run wide open all the time, but if you put a $2000 crankshaft in it and add a $1000 front bearing, the crank becomes pretty reliable and there are few weak links left, one of which is the semi-rare cam gear failure (and we know what to watch for on that now). Rebuilds on a Corvair are pretty cheap, compared to the O-200, and heads and cylinders survive rather well. Corvair parts are rather plentiful, and simple stuff like gears are still made and cheap, rather than rare and expensive. Having said that, if reliability is your number one goal, the O-200 is the way to go. If efficiency and performance is your goal, the Corvair may be the way to go. Cost is probably about the same either way, as far as initial installation, depending on luck and scrounging ability. It's too early to tell what the TBO is on the Corvair...there just aren't enough hours on them yet. I'd bet serious money that it's longer on the Continental than the Corvair though! I don't think anybody would disagree with that. I have a lot invested in Corvairs, and will stick with them. They are far better than VWs, both in reliability and safety. And I have two of them ready to run already. No, I'm not trying to sell either of them. If I were starting over and an O-200 presented itself for a reasonable price, I'd seriously considering buying it. With a new 4340 crank in my Corvair though, I'm good with that option too, especially since they are both paid for. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> anti-glare screen film - ebay and Paypal
If you're looking for an anti-glare screen film for whatever you have on your panel that's too glossy, this deal is hard to beat. By buying three "iPad2" anti glare screen protectors for $5, free shipping, you can anti-glare a lot of equipment. I used one for my old iPad2, cut another in half to make two iFly 720 films, and have one left over for whatever needs it next. On iPad and 720, it eliminated ALL real glare, with no discernible impact on brightness. On the contrary, it looks a lot more brilliant without all the extraneous reflections. I highly recommend these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/230909939563?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT is the link, and they seem to have plenty of them. For those who haven't discovered ebay, you don't know what you're missing. It's a great system that is "self-governing", based on buyer and seller reviews which keep people straight. It's a great place to buy just about everything for a very low price, and almost anything you can think of. Ebay is not a "personal information giveaway" either...there's a lot of protection built into the system, and I've never had a problem with it. Same goes for Paypal, which is a great way to buy things online without spreading your personal information and credit card numbers all over the globe. Ebay is a tool that every scrounger should have in his toolbox... -- Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Facet pumps in series
Craig Williams wrote: > Can you plumb 2 facet pumps in series and will each run the engine > if the other fails? It may depend on exactly which model you buy, but I did exactly that with N56ML and N891JF, using the Facet 40108 that is commonly sold by AS and Wicks. See http://www.n56ml.com/fuel/ for more on that. The first photo down appears as though there's a "cross" in the system, but they are simply overlapping with a tie-wrap to secure the flex hose end. I get a slight fuel pressure boost on N56ML with both pumps running, but I keep the same pressure regardless on N891JF by using a pressure regulator inline that maintains 3 psi. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Time-Out's over - assuming civility again
g thru all of those posts for nothing. A gentle reminder to "reply offline" and furnishing your email address will be a big help. On the other hand, it's entirely possible that just about everybody would like to know more about something helpful, just post it and get it over with. 10) Do not advertise commercial products to this list. It's OK to let folks know there's a new service or a new business, but point them to web site. We don't need a bunch of advertising here. Personal testimonials as to a product's usefulness are welcome anytime, as long as it's not YOUR product. Advertising and selling KRs, KR parts, or something that can be used on one IS permissible anytime, however. Just don't go overboard if it's your business you're "selling". 11) Try not to take things personally. We're all here to help each other. There are usually several ways to take comments. Always try to pick the "nicest" interpretation, rather than trying to read animousity into a post. It's a lot easier to just ignore a snide comment and let it slide. Try to avoid "having the last word". 12) It's OK to interject some personality into emails, just make a contribution while you're at it. I like to let other KRNetters know who I am and what my interests are, but I try to tack that sort of stuff to the bottom of a post in which I've made some sort of contribution to the cause. 13) Keep personal stuff offline. Finding that some other KRNetter is from your neck of the woods isn't a good enough reason to bother us all with your efforts to strike up an acquaintance. Email him direct, rather than to the list. 14) Do not forward "chain mail" or ANYTHING that urges the sender to "send this to everyone in your address book", or "forward to all your friends". These are almost always either hoaxes, viruses, or just plain don't have any place on KRnet. This includes messages dealing with politics, nationalism, or religion. There are plenty of email lists where you can flood your email inbox with warm, touchy-feely messages from the heart. KRNet is NOT going to become one of them! I have already thrown one of my best friends off the list for doing this, mainly because he started the sentence with "I'll probably get thrown off the list for this...". He was espousing his political view...exactly the same as mine, but the rules are the rules, and even I abide by them. Don't throw down the gauntlet, especially when you know better! 15) Change the subject if the thread starts to deviate from the original intent. This makes searching the archive much more productive and far less time-consuming for future builders who are in search of information. 16) Please read ALL of your messages before replying to ANY of them. Why? Because much of the time, your reply will have already been answered by somebody else (or lots of people), and your reply may just be redundant, or even worse, already disproved by somebody that knows more about it than you do! 17) The best way to send photos to the list is to put them on a website somewhere else and send the link to the list. If that's over your head or you only have one or two, you can send them direct to the list, as long as the total size doesn't not exceed ~200k (a total of 250k, but your text and "encoding" will cost you some of that). That's likely only one or two pictures. This means you will likely have to shrink it down to something reasonable like 800x600, AND compress the image 50% using something like IRFANVIEW, a free image processor available online. If it's oversize you'll get a message that the moderator is considering it, but the same guy that wrote this is the moderator, so you can guess what the answer is. If you can't find an image processor and can't post it online and send a link, you likely should not be building an airplane either. It's really not that tough. I've posted a LOT of 70k images on the list and on my website that are quite acceptable. Surely you can do it with three times that allotment. 18) Those who violate these suggestions may find themselves wondering why they don't get KRNet mail anymore. I reserve the right to throw anybody overboard that I see fit... Other KRnet info is given at http://www.krnet.org/info.html . -- Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> TRIGEAR KR2 - KR Newsletters
Bill Weir wrote: >> You had for sale ,or sold a KR2 that was described as having a retractable >> trigear undercarriage that was being converted to a taildrager. I wonder if >> you could describe how the trigear retract was done? You guys apparently missed that I forwarded that KR2 for sale email... it wasn't MY KR2, and the guy selling it may know very little about it, as the plane was given to him by the widow of the guy that built it many years ago. The all-retractable gear setup was mentioned in several issues of the KR Newsletters, which are two thousand pages of searchable PDF files, located at http://www.krnet.org/newsletter/ . Below is an excerpt from issue number 47, in 1979. "KR-2 N24BD Bill DeFreeze was on hand to demonstrate his retractable tri-gear system to all comers. If you're looking for the least expensive, quickest to build, retractable trigear, Bill has it. He's selling plans to the system, one that utilizes many of Rand/ Robinson's existing parts. A twenty dollar bill will get you the easy to follow drawings and construction photos. I believe John Shaffer's "KR2SS" has them (or something similar) now. There are some photos of it at one of the Gatherings also, although his may be a different incarnation than the plans version. I had lunch with John at OSH this year, but I forgot to ask him if he would be at the Gathering this year. I hope so, and I know I will be. It's worth pointing out that retracts on KRs went by the wayside after Dan Diehl proved that his fixed gear, when properly faired, weighs less and has lower drag than the RR plans-built retracts, and you don't have to worry about gear-up landings! They do look cool, and you can make them pretty slippery if done right (like Don Betchan did using motorcycle forks). But still, there's that pesky gear-up thing! For those who have not discovered the KR Newsletters, reading these will keep you spellbound with KR history, innovation, improvements, and many ways to build and fly KRs, for weeks to come. Reading these will make you a lot "KR smarter"... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Fwd: KR2 for sale
BTW, "Liberty Landing" is in Missouri, southwest of Kansas City. See http://www.airnav.com/airport/4MO4 . I should have mentioned that in the previous email. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Fwd: KR2 for sale
Subject:KR2 for sale List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org Date: Sat, 6 Aug 2016 03:50:55 GMT From: redblackvette at netzero.net <> To: krnet at list.krnet.org "Hi All I have a KR2 for sale. With out engine but it has the mount for VW. It has flown 20 years ago but the owner changed it from tricycle gear retractable to fixed gear tail drager. The builder passed away last year and his wife gave me the airplane. It is at Liberty Landing airport. It has no gauges but the air frame really is not in to bad of shape. My name is Dennis Brooks cell phone is 816-217-3977, and email address is redblackvette at netzero.net ". See photo below. To reply to this message, forward it to redblackvette at netzero.net, not to the original sender, Mark Langford! Dennis doesn't like to type emails (or shrink photos), so I recommend calling him directly if you are interested in the plane. Looks like a huge head start on getting in the air, if you're good with a KR2! -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: N78TG.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 149819 bytes Desc: not available URL: <http://list.krnet.org/mailman/private/krnet_list.krnet.org/attachments/20160806/2d96e38e/attachment.jpg>
KR> O2 bung for mixture meter
I should have mentioned that when this bung is welded in place, it would be good to have a sensor screwed into it to minimize distortion of the threads...with anti-seize between the two. Yes, it will smoke, but it beats buying an 18 x 1.5mm tap to fix it later... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Cyberdyne mixture meter
John Bouyea wrote: > Can you tell us about which exhaust bung you welded into the manifold? I'm > wondering what size to order as I took the plunge like Chris... I don't have one here to measure, but I'm pretty sure that Bosch sensor requires a standard 18mm x 1.5mm bung, as shown at https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2990/overview/ . Somebody that has one on hand is welcome to check though. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> "wire grip" throttle cable connection again available at AS
A few weeks ago somebody was lamenting the apparent demise of the "wire grip" that was previously available from Aircraft Spruce to connect throttle cable to carburetor. I was disappointed to see this, but it's not gone after all. See http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/wiregrip.php , and the photo below. I just ordered two of them, and they are available on both coast's stores. This is a fairly unique connection (best I can tell), and works quite well. Be careful not to over-torque it though, and study it carefully before torquing, because if you torque the wrong art, you twist the fragile fingers off, and it's worthless. Of course I would never be that stupid... -- Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: wire_grip_throttle_cable.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 19087 bytes Desc: not available URL: <http://list.krnet.org/mailman/private/krnet_list.krnet.org/attachments/20160731/52d3342d/attachment.JPG>
KR> Cyberdyne mixture meter
Chris Gardiner wrote: > I notice this meter recommends using a narrow band O2 sensor instead of the wide band type I was planning for. > > What O2 sensor are you planning to use? This question was not directed at me, but I do have an opinion. An inexpensive ($20) narrow-band Bosch "one-wire" sensor will suffice just fine for this job. When this thing says "too rich", it really is, and when it says "too lean" (the bottom LED), you'll have already noticed a real power drop, so narrow band is fine. I like to keep mine at the point where the bottom LED is barely flashing on and off, or "just south" of that (not even visible). Wide band units and there sensors are very expensive, as was mentioned, and simply not needed for our application. I have almost 1400 hours flying behind one that looks just like this (apparently a Cyberdyne knockoff, or perhaps just "rebranded"), and I can't imagine what other information I would need from an air/fuel meter. Bosch part number is 11027. More on this is at http://www.n56ml.com/corvair/o2meter/ . 100LL eats these things every hundred hours or so, so that's another reason to go cheap... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Oshkosh and nav/engine monitors/iFLYs
A few thoughts on OSH this year: - The KR Forum needs a breath of fresh air, not just me up there channeling whatever comes to mind about KRs. Next year we'll do something different, perhaps getting four different KR builders to get up and tell the stories of their KRs for 15 minutes, or something like we did a few years ago, four pilots with different engines to talk about that aspect of flying their planes. We'll think of something. - I ran into Marty Roberts before the Forum, and he's working with the new Great Plains Aircraft owners to smooth the transition and improve customer service, and he's still part of that team. He also spoke a few minutes at the Forum and handed out GPASC catalogs. My understanding is that the new guys are A, and are dedicated to improving the products and carrying on with GPASC. - Larry Flesner and I flew up to OSH at a fairly steady 148 mph TAS, at 7500'. I was burning about 3.6 gph most of the way, which is 41 mpg. My trip back AVERAGED 37.3 mpg, which includes taxiing, climbing to 10,500 for the return trip, dodging clouds, rain, and Chicago airspace, and a fuel stop in Indiana, while doing my usual 145 mph TAS cruise speed, with a mostly neutral wind (neither head nor tailwind). To me, that's the strongest attribute the KR has...efficiency. The highest CHT registered on the flight was 332F, so there's something to be said for adequate air passages in cylinder heads. -I used both a Stratux and a Stratus on the way to OSH, and I can tell you that the Stratux needs an internal fan or it will overheat and reboot constantly, and the iPAD will shut down due to heat if left in the sun for a few minutes at a fuel stop on a hot day. Cooling the iPAD by mounting it in the panel with an air gap and a fan behind a hole on the backside blowing on it mitigates that problem, so I'm told. The iLEVEL3 AW that Rob mentioned can apparently transmit serial data from either a GRT EIS or an MGL RDAC to an iPAD wirelessly, so now it's just a matter of locating an iPAD app that can display navigation and engine data at the same time on one screen. I don't recall seeing that yet, so I'm starting to think I'd need two iPAD minis on the panel to cover that, or, simply use my trusty old EIS for that kind of data...it works just fine. The full-size iPAD will also burn lots of battery power and decrease steadily until it quits, if turned up to full brightness, despite being plugged into an Apple 3A source. Perhaps sourcing a higher current power source is the answer to this. I've read the iPAD Mini's don't have that problem, probably since the screen is so much smaller. More research is required on all of this. - IFly GPS's are currently shipped without an anti-glare film over the insanely glossy touch-screen, and they currently don't have anybody making them to fit the 720 (and presumably the 740). Their vendor bailed. So I have ordered three IPAD-2 anti-glare sheets for $5 off ebay, one of which I'll stick on my iPAD, and the other I'll cut down for the 720. The glossy screen is ridiculous, IMHO. Also, if you decide to mount an iFLY 720 vertically on your panel, mount it in front of or to the left of the pilot, not to the right (like mine). The screen is polarized such that the brightness level is maybe half as bright when viewed from the left as it is from directly or the right, and "portrait" mode only works one way, not the other! Anybody considering buying the iFLY 720 or 740 should also consider running the iFLY app on a cheap used iPAD, because it starts instantly, is very responsive, and is very reliable, not to mention CHEAP! The yearly subscription is the same either way Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> water injection installed
NetHeads, After years of threatening to do it, I finally got around to installing water injection on my plane, and test flew it today. I ran water injection on my 2110cc Karmann Ghia back in the late 70's when I lived in the desert, to tame the detonation caused by the 9.9:1 compression ratio (lots of long stories in that sentence). It was only activated above certain throttle settings using an adjustable vacuum switch, squirting water down the throats of twin Weber 40IDF carbs, and worked quite well. What I didn't realize is that water injection also "steam cleans" piston tops and combustion chambers, because when I pulled the heads to lower the compression, the chambers and piston tops looked like new! I don't have detonation problems with the latest incarnation of my 2180cc airplane engine, especially since I dropped the compression ratio to 8.1:1 so I could run 93 octane auto fuel on the hottest summer days, but I do like the idea of keeping the chambers and pistons squeaky clean and deposit free. So I found a "windshield washer kit" on ebay for $12 that uses a pliable plastic bag for the reservoir, allowing me to easily fasten it to my engine mount in an area that is otherwise quite tight on space. I can report today that running the injection at near wide open throttle is barely perceptible, indicated only by a 20-30 rpm drop in RPM, and it makes the engine run slightly leaner, according to the mixture meter. I installed the push-button switch that came with the kit, but only used a pint or so of water in two minutes of operation, so I'll probably install a toggle switch so I can run it for 10 minutes to empty the bag and do some serious cleaning. I welded primer port fittings into the intake manifold for each cylinder (total of four), with a standard .020" diameter primer nozzle installed in each cylinder's inlet manifold runner for the primer system. Since the engine starts without priming in the summer, I simply disconnected the fuel line and slipped the plastic tubing into the tee that goes to each side. Works like a charm. I was concerned about the primer nozzles sucking water out of the bag at high vacuum (idle), so I also bought a $10 "pneumatic" 12V solenoid (a Keurig coffee maker replacement part) from ebay so water only flows when I want it to. Although this likely falls under the heading of "stuff you don't need", I like the idea of having clean combustion chambers and piston tops, and a quick way to quell detonation should it ever happen with this low compression ratio. Obviously, this won't work in freezing temperatures, but it's not needed for detonation in the winter anyway. See enclosed photo for my rather shoddy (but temporary) installation, but it does work fine this way. As you can see, real estate is limited, so a normal hard plastic reservoir wouldn't fit. All electrical connections are insulated and there's a fuse and a breaker in the line also. See http://www.n56ml.com/ghia2.jpg for a picture of the Ghia (still got it), and see the water injection "installation" photo below this message as an attachment. -- Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: injection-setup.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 84421 bytes Desc: not available URL: <http://list.krnet.org/mailman/private/krnet_list.krnet.org/attachments/20160730/7b650e1d/attachment.JPG>
KR> really folks?
Phillip Hill wrote: > There's a simple way to eliminate quoted text. > All you do is click "Reply" or "Reply All" > then press CTRL+A and start typing. This works fine for Windows, but most of the flagrant violators use smartphones, and simply can't be bothered to figure out how to edit or remove previous text from a reply...at the expense of those who search the archives later, despite simple instructions to be found through Google. But then it would take more than three seconds to dash off a reply... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> iFly 740/EFB's etc.
billjacobs386 via KRnet wrote: > http://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L=DChcSEwjRoq3YlpfOAhXGWoYKHdmBBcIYABAA=www.google.com=CAESIeD2BpP05h9NCxUF8t_5GvKPqAQctEMY3AMPJrPdx2JS5A=AOD64_2ab7is0ilHwKfolIqNUu5B9GZefQ==0ahUKEwiGjqnYlpfOAhWSMx4KHV_EB3oQ0QwIGQ= > Please don't simply send a link to the list without some explanation of what it is. That's a hallmark of malware email, and I personally would not click on it, no matter where it appears to go. It's time for me to repeat some list rules, in particular: 2) When replying to a post, delete everything except one or two key sentences from the previous post. Carrying all that useless baggage around from previous posts also gives people fits when searching the archives later, as they end up getting 10 hits for the same message. This goes double for the "trailer" stuff at the bottom. Four or five copies of this stuff at the bottom of a post is a clear indicator that three or four people in that chain simply don't care to follow the rules. 3) Conversely, at least put SOMETHING in the post to remind us what you're replying to. A post like "yeah, that's how I did mine and it works great" doesn't mean a thing if you don't know what the guy's talking about, so please cut and paste some of what you're replying to above your comments. 6) Put your name and email address in your signature to make emailing others "offnet" easier. If we all had our addresses at the bottom of our posts, it would be far easier to "email direct". If it's blue just click on it, if it's not, cut it and paste it into the "To" box. If throwing your email address out on the internet makes you nervous (and it should), camoflage it a little by replacing the @ symbol with "at", or something similar, so bot crawlers won't know what to do with it. The rest of this list is located at http://www.krnet.org/info.html . For those who have never read the rules (despite what the "welcome to KRnet List email" says, please read the rules and abide by them. Jeff Scotts previous post is an example of how this is done correctly. It's pretty simple, really, to make it easier on future users to search the archives, while making the list less cluttered. All it takes is a few seconds of your effort to save several hundred others the trouble of sifting through an email looking for that useful nugget of information... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Spinner
I meant to say "I used TWO layers of 9 ounce RA7725 cloth..." Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Spinner
Joe Nunley wrote. > Is two layers of fiberglass cloth thick enough for a prop spinner? > (Ididn't have any carbon fiber at the moment) It doesn't seem stiff >enough. I used layers of 9 ounce RA7725 (as Aircraft Spruce calls it) fiberglass to make my last spinner, and it's just about perfect. It weighs something like 4 ounces, as I recall. Using 5.85 ounce 7533 (KR cloth), two layers wouldn't be enough...four would be required for similar properties, and that's four times the work and opportunity for wrinkles. It should work though. Give it a try. I tried to send this from OSH but something changed with my SMTP port number and I couldn't send from my iPhone. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Engine offset
Stef wrote: > What is the experience from the people who are flying with 110 hp Or more? > Should I do 3 degrees offset or is there no reason to do this? I fretted over this, but set it up for straight ahead, just in case I changed to an O-200 later. I small trim tab on the rudder compensated for it, and I was happy with that. You'll need the trim tab anyway...but it might have more of an angle in it, which still isn't much. I wouldn't worry about it... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Great plains
Most of us know that Marty Roberts took over GPASC about a year ago, but it changed hands again a few months ago, so I'm told. It turns out that there's a lot to running this international business, and it's quite an effort, even for two people. The current owner is still climbing the learning curve, and is likely buried with a lot more business than he expected... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> status of kr super 2
Robert Dunleavy wrote: > anyone know the status of the kr super 2 a few guys were building? It > seems no one has posted on their website in yearsrobert I've not been a fan of the KR Super 2 since it was first made public, mainly because of my concern that builders would be led down a path toward construction, and then the leader would either be hit by a truck or lose interest, leaving a bunch of unfinished projects with a questionable path forward. It appears as though that may have happened... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> KR1B motorglider criteria question
The KR-1B wingspan is 27', empty weight 484 pounds, and gross weight 800 pounds. According to the previously mentioned rules (assuming they are true), that means a max weight of 452 pounds, whether gross or empty, which is less than either of the advertised numbers. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> RUDDER SIZE
N56ML's rudder is 3.5" taller than the KR2S plans call for, and has an aerodynamic balance to lighten the load on it. I say that, but the plans don't actually have a dimension on that, you have to scale it (1/4) to get 40.5" tall at the trailing edge. My rudder is a total of 44" tall at the trailing edge. The plane slips at a crazy sharp angle and drops like an elevator while doing it, so I like my taller rudder. It was added after initial construction by "scabbing" onto the existing rudder with fiberglass, and then overhanging the vertical stabilizer, which effectively gives me even more rudder. You can see it clearly in the photo at the top of http://www.n56ml.com/. You can see from the photo that the rudder is quite proud to be part of the action... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Morning flight
Robert Pesak wrote: >> Had A great flight down too Marks hanger this morning. The air was smooth as glass going down but heading back too M54 (Lebanon,Tn.) it was rough. I had A good visit But figured I better get goin weather didn't look so good just of Nashville.<< Robert's KR2S is an awesome machine...it looks like it rolled out of a factory with molded parts. The workmanship is incredible. It has some pretty good ideas on it, such as a tightly integrated aluminum plenum that almost cools the O-200 TOO well. He already has some "lessons learned" that hopefully he'll be sharing with the list. See enclosed photo. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: Pesak_KR2S..jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 115921 bytes Desc: not available URL: <http://list.krnet.org/mailman/private/krnet_list.krnet.org/attachments/20160703/93a4cb96/attachment.jpg>
KR> VW heads - RM-049 vs DRD L3
Kayak Chris wrote: > Mark, the 049 heads from revmaster are about twice the price what > you're paying DCD IIRC. What do you make of the price difference and > what that means? I have no idea. It usually means "you get what you pay for", but sometimes it means "we have a big name, and it's going to cost you". But as I mentioned before, given the kind of good luck Jeff Lang has had with his O49 torture test, the O49's may very well be worth it. What worries me about them though is they appear to have very little in the way of air passages, according to the photo I posted the other day (below), but it's not the "whole picture", and somebody who has an RM-049 is welcome to send me one to help with that decision. The reply that the seat material was "good quality" but not an exact material didn't do much for my confidence in them, but at least he didn't say "they're plain cast iron". The other day I asked the guy at FAT Performance what material their SS exhaust valves were, and he had no idea. How do we make decisions based on no information? I'd like some real steady-state CHT numbers from people with different heads on aircraft with KR-comparable speeds, preferably from folks who are monitoring all four cylinders, along with OAT and speed along with that. I seem to be one of the few that records this kind of stuff though...but y'all are welcome to prove me wrong on that. Or you could start this weekend. The end result of this compilation would be a more educated group of VW head buyers... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: RM-049.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 31869 bytes Desc: not available URL: <http://list.krnet.org/mailman/private/krnet_list.krnet.org/attachments/20160702/1f2e096b/attachment.JPG>
KR> VW sucked vavles
Mike Stirewalt wrote: > I've attached my favorite VW head picture. One of our old timers up > in Oregon sent this in. If memory serves he had over a thousand hours > on this engine. Those valves are . . . awesome. That's a fairly typical valve-sucking scenario, where the valve head goes out the exhaust port and the rest of the engine develops a miss and low power, but no other urgent symptoms. I once rebuilt one that the lady had been driving for 6 months and thought maybe it needed a tuneup. The compression check told the story! It's not always just an inconvenience to be addressed though. See the enclosed photo. This is why I'm on a high-quality valve and seat binge. You can't just accept a pair of heads from a reputable source...often the vendor can't (or won't) tell you the valve metallurgy, so what are you really getting? It really matters. This engine ran for about 10 more seconds... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: dropped_valve_sm.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 176098 bytes Desc: not available URL: <http://list.krnet.org/mailman/private/krnet_list.krnet.org/attachments/20160701/83490d60/attachment.jpg>
KR> DRD L3 heads with chrome seats and large chambers
The other day I meantioned DRD's "OEM 043" cylinder heads. Since then,
I've stumbled across what they call the "L3" head, which appears to have
more suitable seat material ("high-chrome"), stainless valves, 4130
retainers, and a much larger chamber volume without a "step". This
means it's far easier to set up a tight quench volume (to facilitate
auto-fuel) and reasonable (low) compression ratio. I asked about the
valves and was told "they're high quality", but got no further details.
I've ordered a set of Manley exhaust valves just to be sure. I no
longer take chances with exhaust valves! It's amazing how folks sell
things that they don't know the details of, such as valve and seat
material. It's, uhh, important.
I'm not necessarily recommending these, just pointing out that they
appear to be a better choice than the OEM 043 heads, and are only
slightly more expensive ($499/pair). I have no idea if these have the
same large cooling passages as the 043 heads, however. My guess is that
they are different castings entirely, given the large chamber volume, so
they may be more limited in the air passage department. I really don't
know. See
http://www.drdracingheads.com/xcart/DRD-Stocker-plus-35.5X32mm.html
With Jeff Lang's experience on the Revmaster 049, that looks pretty good
too. Others are welcome to post their real world experience, with
details like CHT, OAT, fuel type, head type, compression ratio, etc, so
others can make informed decisions, rather than depend on marketing.
I will have another set of data points in a few weeks, just in time to
fly to OSH...
Mark Langford
ML at N56ML.com
http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Brainless posters
the answer is. If you can't find an image processor and can't post it online and send a link, you likely should not be building an airplane either. It's really not that tough. I've posted a LOT of 70k images on the list and on my website that are quite acceptable. Surely you can do it with three times that allotment. 18) Those who violate these suggestions may find themselves wondering why they don't get KRNet mail anymore. I reserve the right to throw anybody overboard that I see fit... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> DRD heads
Owen wrote: > Which did you go with? I didn?t see a "OEM 43? among them, They call them "OEM 043 clone", SKU OEMT1HEAD, for $420/pair. They are stock valve size (to reduce cracking between seats), and can be bored to whatever cylinder size or depth you want for free. I will put stainless valves in them also, of course. See link below. http://www.drdracingheads.com/xcart/OEM-Style-Dual-port-type-1-heads-12mm-spark-plug.html Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> VW heads
I called Revmaster Tuesday, but got no answer. Today was better, and I talked to a guy about their heads, hoping to find some with nice air passages as well as "advanced" valve seats. The photo on Revmaster Aviation's website only shows the chamber side, and their website in general had lots of issues, such as an inop price list. He told me to go look at the photos on the automotive website, since they were the same RM-049 heads for either application. After seeing that photo, I was not impressed that the passages are much better than what has become normal for VW head castings, although the castings are clearly not stock VW derived. He also said their seat material was something like "latest technology that others are also using, not just cast iron", for what that's worth. I've been conversing with DRD Racing for a few days, and their Chinese-derived heads do indeed have large cooling passages. Given the overall quality of these castings, I'm going to ASSume that they wouldn't install crappy seats in an otherwise decent looking head, so I've ordered a pair, especially after seeing a photo that DRD provided today. I'll update y'all when I have a pair on the work bench and can get better photos, but the best I can do for a comparison at this point is the two photos below (or enclosed, I hope) of a Revmaster RM-049 and the DRD "OEM 43" head passages. Cooling trumps seat life, at this point in my life. More after I do some testing on these heads. This may prove to be a dumb idea, but somebody's got to try them out... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: RM-049.JPG Type: image/jpeg Size: 31869 bytes Desc: not available URL: <http://list.krnet.org/mailman/private/krnet_list.krnet.org/attachments/20160623/8451549e/attachment.JPG> -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: DRD_passages_small.jpg Type: image/jpeg Size: 72750 bytes Desc: not available URL: <http://list.krnet.org/mailman/private/krnet_list.krnet.org/attachments/20160623/8451549e/attachment.jpg>
KR> Spar dimensions
Chad wrote: > Quick question. The dimensions for the main spar called out in the > plans. 2 5/32" top view. Is that to include the birch ply or is that > the cap only? Spar cap only. The "drawing number 12" covers spar and verticals, and underneath shows the additional web plywood added, with no dimensions, so I assumed the dimensions applied to caps only. And my spar material came very close to 2-5/32, so that clinched it for me. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> VW Engines
Jeff Lange wrote: > Too bad the "soon to be officially mine" Corvair powered KR has taken to circulating the better part of the cam gear teeth throughout the engine? That sounds like an engine that was run without a front bearing for some period of time. The nose of the crank moves so far up and down that it frets the teeth, triggering an eventual failure. I know two guys on these list that know a lot more about it than I do... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> VW Engines
Some random thoughts that I feel must be said: Turbocharging a VW would be a recipe for disaster IMHO, and insurance that you wouldn't do much flying. Don't forget...it's all about flying, not how fast you can say your plane would go if it were running. GPASC has proprietary parts...flywheel, adapter, hub, crank, bearing, and case come to mind quickly. Having built one of these several times, I'm not a fan of the keyway setup. The slots are in hub and crank are shallow, and the key is provided as a square key that you need to grind (or mill) down to something way thinner to fit between hub and crank. Getting a good fit with maximum material is trial and error. The key is only there to ensure the timing mark stays constant if the hub is removed. The taper is where the power is transferred. Crank and hub are also matched sets due to tolerances on the angle. The hub still needs to be lapped onto the crank, which is a two-hour chore by hand. The hub/bearing clearance is not consistent. The crank and bearing are sold as a set, and getting a new bearing for an existing crank is iffy. I've torqued the case to 8 ft-lbs and the crank still spun, then when I torqued it to 14 the crank seized. No amount of refitting cured that one. I'm not a great fan of the prop bolt...1/2" RH threads. Revmaster's is .75" LH threads, which can be torqued higher for a better connection. Otherwise, a simple engine backfire can unscrew the prop, despite proper torque and Loctite 620 on the bolt threads. If the crankshaft's oil seal leaks, the hub isn't going to come off without a 20 ton press, so tear the engine down to replace the seals, and hope the next seals work better. My luck with those seals has not been good either. That's the only place my engine has lost oil. If you're working with the hub before it's torqued and remove it while the keyway is facing down, the tiny key falls down into the cavity below the cam gear, and you get to tear the engine down again to retrieve it. Yes, I'm stupid, but it could happen to you as well. Buy the GPASC manual and read it. There's a lot of trial and error work to be done in there, not to mention the basics of case and other clearancing when boring and stroking a VW engine. I guess the 2700cc Corvair really spoiled me...no machine work or trial and error. Generally, VW heads have a tiny area of air passages between the top and bottom of the head, even after serious deflashing. This has gotten even worse over the years, rather than better, now that factory VW heads have dried up. Corvairs have way more cooling passage area, hence they cool far better. N56ML would fly around on the hottest of days at cruise speed and it might be 320F. This VW is closer to 380F. The "cure" for this is to move the CHT probes to the head studs, so the temperature will read a lot lower. Makes you feel better, at least. Fiberglass plenums are my next experiment, and probably a set of heads with larger cooling air passages, if I can find them. Keep in mind that I used to be a VW mechanic, and am no stranger to trial and error with details like chamber volume, but this is ridiculous, and apparently never ending. GPASC is on its third owner in less than a year, so consistency is not something I'd count on. I could write more, and someday I'll have time for further details, but I feel obligated to get this said. For the moment I'm off to adjust the valves again. Stirewalt's right, I "make" time by not getting enough sleep, and it's not getting any better... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Question concerning Ellison Model 2 Carb on a HAPI VW engine
Rene Ffrench wrote: Yes, you'll need a primer. I have 3.5 psi feeding the carb. The carb isn't supposed to flow unless it is receiving air, so primer is required to get it going. I'm using a primer, and you'll a primer in all but the warmest of conditions. I ran an 1/8" copper tube from an electric primer solenoid to a T that splits to each side, and at each head is another T, with a primer nozzle going to a fitting that I welded into each intake (total of four). Actually, I welded a piece of steel tubing into the manifolds and threaded it. Four nozzles may be overkill, but "real" airplane people are astounded that I can turn it over a couple of blades in freezing weather and it starts and runs smoothly! There is a special primer fitting that AS (and likely Wicks) sells that has an orifice in it that sprays an atomized mist. It also has a cone connection that must be silver soldered (not as hard as it sounds) to the copper tubing. See http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/primerfittings.php?clickkey=3014828 for all of this stuff, and I warn you that it is expensive. You don't need everything in the photo, just the discharge nipple, the cone fitting, and retaining nut (AN-805). Don't take my word for it though...investigate a little. I've bought stuff that I didn't need, and it's all expensive. One benefit of this system is that if your engine suffers vapor lock in flight and starves for fuel, you can "pulse" the primer off and on to keep the engine running. Been there, done that, glad it works... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> "blast from the past"
Larry Flesner wrote: > Any chance we can use our collective memories and come up with a list of > year and location for all the past Gatherings? I've attended 25 of the > last 26 Gatherings but can't remember all the years and locations. Here's the list of links from KRnet: '94 Columbia, TN Gathering photos '95 Columbia, TN Gathering photos '96 Pine Bluff, Arkansas Gathering photos '97 Perry, OK Gathering photos '98 Columbia, TN "East Coast Gathering" photos '98 Perry, OK Gathering photos '99 Lake Barkley, KY Gathering photos 2000 Oshkosh photos 2000 Lake Barkley, KY Gathering photos 2001 Oshkosh photos 2001 Pine Bluff, Arkansas KR Gathering photos . 2002 Red Oak, Iowa KR Gathering photos . 2003 Red Oak, Iowa KR Gathering photos. 2004 Mount Vernon Gathering photos. 2005 Mount Vernon Gathering photos. 2006 Mount Vernon Gathering photos by EL Miller and Glenda McElwee. 2008 KR Gathering photos 2009 and more recent KR Gathering photos Bob Lee was doing such a good job posting photos that I quit posting mine after 2009, but may eventually get time to post some of them. All of the above represent links that can be found at http://www.krnet.org/ if you want to see pictures and commentary... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> 19 year old KRnet "blast from the past"
I was doing a search for some plenum differential pressure measurements last night when I ran across this snippet of KRnet archive that rekindled some old memories. See http://www.sport-aircraft.org/digests/1997/197.txt if you have 10 minutes to kill, and still remember those earlier days on KRnet... -- Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Cable safe
Chris Pryce wrote: > Here's an alternative if you're willing: > > http://www.eaavideo.org/video.aspx?v=4605134888001 That's a great idea, but make sure it's in the right place the first time, because compression fittings are almost "forever"! A dremel with a carborundum wheel would make quick work of it, but it's not something you'd want to do very often. Personally mine are a fairly loose fit through the firewall...just shields and grommets, and the cable housing is clamped with a P-clamp very near the end. This minimizes stretch of the housing between firewall and end point (mixture, throttle, whatever), and reduces freeplay. I think I'll keep doing it my way... Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Fwd: Re: Flywheel alternators
After re-reading my post, let me amend it a bit. Start on page 30 at "Flywheel Alternators" and read through page 32. Mine is a 20A, but you could even have a 15A. You could also have a 30A, I suppose. Mine charges at 14.3-14.4V anytime the engine is much above idle, and has plenty of current for 91JF's meager needs. See http://www.twinslan.net/~n0nas/manuals/onan/940-0751%20Onan%20NH%20(RV%20spec%20J-P)%20NHC,%20NHCV%20(spec%20E)%20Engine%20Service%20Manual%20(04-1987).pdf Pages 31 and 32 are all you need to test regulator and generator. This is a "Synchro 20" I have this dumb-as-dirt single-phase system also, and it is surprisingly smooth voltage with zero EMI noise on the radio, or the rest of the system, best I can tell. Given that these use permanent magnets, it is certainly conceivable that they could lose their magnetism over time, but I wouldn't expect it to happen quickly. Regulator would be my first guess. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
KR> Flywheel alternators
Mike Stirewalt wrote: > Anybody know if the flywheel alternators that are in the Great Plains > engines wear out with time? It seems my voltmeter needle is riding > around 11 volts instead of 12 with the engine at full RPM. It might be > my imagination. See http://www.twinslan.net/~n0nas/manuals/onan/940-0751%20Onan%20NH%20(RV%20spec%20J-P)%20NHC,%20NHCV%20(spec%20E)%20Engine%20Service%20Manual%20(04-1987).pdf Pages 31 (starting at "30A synchro system) and 32 (testing) are all you need to test regulator and generator. I have this dumb-as-dirt single-phase system also, and it is surprisingly smooth voltage with zero EMI noise on the radio, or the rest of the system, best I can tell. Given that these use permanent magnets, it is certainly conceivable that they could lose their magnetism over time, but I wouldn't expect it to happen quickly. Regulator would be my first guess. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com On 6/13/2016 3:02 PM, Mike Stirewalt via KRnet wrote: > Anybody know if the flywheel alternators that are in the Great Plains > engines wear out with time? It seems my voltmeter needle is riding > around 11 volts instead of 12 with the engine at full RPM. It might be > my imagination. > > If they DO wear out with time, what needs to be replaced? What wears? > > I just aborted a trip to La Paz because the voltmeter needle seemed to be > riding a little lower than it usually does. I didn't want to be coming > back across the border without a working transponder so I landed in San > Felipe and just came back home. Better safe than sorry. This alternator > situation worries me but it might be just fine and my imagination the > problem, not the alternator. It's got a lot of hours on it - the > flywheel alternator I mean - and am wondering if I've got a problem > developing. > > Thanks, > > Mike > KSEE > > > > Affordable Wireless Plans > Set up is easy. Get online in minutes. > Starting at only $9.95 per month! > www.netzero.net?refcd=nzmem0216 > > ___ > Search the KRnet Archives at http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search. > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org to change > options > >
KR> [CorvAircraft] Prop
That equation has never worked for me either. If it makes anybody feel any better, Joe Horton reminded me today that he can reproduce 180 mph TAS on a regular basis, and his ASI system is well calibrated. He also has a nosewheel out front. Temperature and altitude are factors, and of course RPM and weight of the plane. I flew the KR2 (old wing) with a 54x50 prop today at WOT at 168 mph TAS at about 2500 ft, so I'm getting over 100% efficiency. Bottom line is this equation doesn't fit KRs. Properly built, they are simply more efficient than most airplanes out there, especially at the time that equation was probably hatched...I'm guessing the early 1940's. Mark Langford ML at N56ML.com http://www.n56ml.com
