VACList DigestVACList-Digest Thursday, July 25, 2002 Issue 375
Today's Topics:
1. Re: Land Yacht vs Land Yacht International
2. Re: Charge line fuses
3. Land Yatch vs Land Yatch Int.
4. Re: Charge line fuses
5. Re: Help w/comparing years
6. Re: Charge line fuses
7. Bambi awning
8. Re: Hud work
9. Re: Brake line fuses
10. Re: Bambi awning
11. Re: Charge line fuses
12. Re: Brake line fuses
13. Re: HUD work on 66 Safari
14. moderation
15. Re: HUD work on 66 Safari
16. Re: help w/comparing years
17. Re: Trailer Brake Aggressiveness
18. Re: Freeze damaged plumbing help and welding plastic information
19. Re: Bambi awning
20. Re: moderation
21. Re: Brake line fuses
22. Re: HUD work on 66 Safari
23. Any Streamline owners out there?
24. Size does matter - but how much?
25. Re: Trailer Brake Aggressiveness
26. Awning storage solution?
27. Re: Size does matter - but how much?
28. Re: some civility, please
29. Re:
30. 1965 Safari for sale
31. Re:
32. Unable to reply; was moderation
33. Re:
34. Trendsetters
35. Re: message #30 7/25/03
36. Re: Freeze damaged plumbing help and welding plastic in formation
37. Re: Thetford Replacement
38. Re: message #30 7/25/03
39. Re: Trailer Brake Aggressiveness
40. Land Yatch vs Int.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message Number: 1
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 18:13:41 -0600
From: Charlie/Betty Burke <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Land Yacht vs Land Yacht International
Over the many years Airstream has played fast and loose with traditional tags like
Landyacht, International, Excella etc. When the Excella 500 was introduced it was
indeed the top of the heap. Then several years later along came the Excella 1000 and
then the Excella, and then the big leap to the Limited with it's special colors. Now
in 2000 they have reintroduced the Classic in lieu of the Excella's. And most
recently the International has been reintroduced as a 22'. The confusion will never
end. But that's marketing.
Charlie
"schuetzen - RKBA!" wrote:
> On Wed, 24 Jul 2002 10:35:52 -0400, Dick Kenan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> >
> > I had a 1972 Land Yacht Safari once. It's service manual listed
> >"Land Yacht" and "International" as feature/trim package names; someone on
> >this list told me that "Safari" meant 23' in length.
>
> you are correct but please note that the Excella was to the Airstream what the
> Eldorado was to the Cadillac line. It had all the gizmos, gimcracks and
> bells/whistles which were options to the LY or the Intl.
> If you watch the "Airstream Show" as I call it, on TV (Promised Land), that is a
> post 74, Intl Sovereign. the age is only a guess as I have not seen a website
> where the trailer might be discussed.
> My Sovereign is an Intl to which the original owner (a VP with IBM in CA - it is
> a Cupertino? product) added most of the Excella options.
>
> 'snuff
> chas
>
> --
> Charles L Hamilton, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Houston, TX
> WBCCI #1130 VAC S*M*A*R*T '76 Sovereign
> www.schuetzen.net [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> ----------RKBA!---------------------------------
> X-No-Archive: Yes
>
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>
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>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 2
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 19:16:36 -0400
From: "Weimers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Charge line fuses
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> That fuse is to protect the charge wire. Should be appropriate for that
> wire. If the wire is #10 then 30 amps is appropriate. If larger than a
> larger fuse is appropriate, at both ends.
>
> The larger the fuse the less voltage drop in the fuse and the greater
> the maximum charging rate.
>
I was using a fuse at first, but when it blew on two separate occasions, I
was not aware that my trailer battery was not charging until the lights went
dim. (my ammeter doesn't work because of the missing shunt and the Univolt
conversion). I decided to use a circuit breaker instead of the fuse. Since
the automotive circuit breakers are self-resetting, the charging line will
keep working even after a high load trips it. I suppose that the fuse would
be safer in the event of a dead short. I'm not an electrical engineer, so I
don't have the figures of what loads a particular gauge of wire should
handle, so I'm glad to see you recommend a 30 amp fuse. I was using a 50 amp
fuse , I
think, which I suspected was too large ....and you confirm that. But
...what are your thoughts about using the circuit breaker as opposed to a
fuse? Should the circuit breaker be rated lower than a fuse (since it
takes more time to "trip" it)? Maybe it would also be good to use a fusible
link in the charging line in conjunction with the circuit breaker?
What's the best way of hooking these things up?
Originally, I also used a (separate) fuse on my trailer brake line also. I
decided that was really unsafe and switched to a circuit breaker ...since
they reset themselves.
On an aside: never install an automotive circuit breaker upside down so
that the case can collect water. I had one short out when my heater hose
exploded and filled the circuit breaker with antifreeze! (Often, I learn the
hard way.)
MARC WEIMER
Punxsutawney, PA - Home of the Groundhog
#15767
1963 Globe Trotter
1971 Globe Trotter
http://users.penn.com/~mweimer/weimer.html
------------------------------
Message Number: 3
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 21:24:34 -0400
From: Ron Ainsworth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Land Yatch vs Land Yatch Int.
Thanks Kevin
Ron and Barbara Ainsworth
'72 Ambassador International 29'
email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Greetings Ron and Barbara!
It is my understanding that during the years that Land Yacht was used by
Airstream as an identifier, it was a generic term that applied to all
Airstreams built. International was a premium package that could be
added to virtually any Land Yacht, and included a variety of equipment
that varied by year and possibly by series (Overlander, Sovereign, etc.)
Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
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------------------------------
Message Number: 4
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 21:29:14 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Charge line fuses
12 volt self resetting circuit breakers are used in charge lines. Typically
40 amps. NEVER, EVER, use any form of any kind of fuse in a brake line. To do
so is asking for disaster. If a short in the brake system did develop, some
braking would still take place. It might not be enough, but it certainly is
better than zero.
Shorts in 12 brake systems are almost always related to poor or lack of
proper care. Magnets do wear out and must be replaced, before they wear into
the plastic insulator. When a major brake is done every 10,000 miles, as it
should be, worn magnets will be caught before they can short out. Magnets are
normally good for about 20,000 miles, on an average. Additionally, if someone
has towed through high grass or weeds, or rocks, it would be very wise to get
underneath the trailer and check the wiring for damage.
There is no substitute for proper maintenance. Fuses and circuit breakers are
great, but only if they are used correctly.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 5
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 21:31:59 -0400
From: Daisy Welch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Help w/comparing years
Well, oh darn. However, if you have a center bath, I still want to hear
all about it!
Daisy
Ron Ainsworth wrote:
>
> Guess what... that gray water tank in our 72 isn't original. It was likely
> added by one of the two previous owners. Don't ask how because I haven't the
> slighest idea, I haven't had to get into it, I just figured it was original.
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 6
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 19:32:01 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Charge line fuses
The current capacity of wires from the National Electric Code is
sometimes conservative. At 12 volts, voltage drop is often more critical
than at 120 volts.
The NEC rates typical 10 gauge copper at 30 amps, 8 gauge is rated at 40
amps, 6 gauge at 55 amps, 4 gauge at 70 amps, 2 at 95 amps, 1 at 110
amps, and 1/0 at 125 amps. This is the rating for wire insulation rated
to operate at no greater than 60�C, 140�F. Conductors with insulation
rated at higher temperatures can carry greater currents. But they will
have greater voltage drop.
Neither fuses nor circuit breakers trip at 101%. Both tend to carry 125%
of rating for a long time, and begin to trip reliably at 150% and up.
Both circuit breakers and fuses can be had with various trip curves.
Fortunately copper wire has considerable thermal inertia so that its not
damaged, whether in a motor, transformer or cable, by short time current
overloads.
Fusible link or fuse along with a circuit breaker may be better
protection, but it will introduce greater voltage drop making the charge
line less effective. There needs to be fuse or breaker at both ends of
the charging wire because there are substantial energy sources at both
ends of the charging wire.
Not all circuit breakers reset themselves, many require manual
resetting. The main reason most automotive circuit breakers reset is for
use with head lights. To restore headlights more rapidly than if manual
reset is required.
Because they use several different metals, both fuses and circuit
breakers should be protected from moisture. Else they will trip
prematurely from bad contacts.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 7
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 19:44:10 -0600
From: "Pete Ryner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Bambi awning
My dad has a Bambi and wants to put an awning on. Trouble is that no one we
can find has a 6' awning. Does anyone have any experience or suggestions?
I know he can have a fabric made and use poles, but it would have to be
threaded into the trailer channel every time. Looking to avoid that hassle.
Thanks in advance
Pete
------------------------------
Message Number: 8
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 20:59:39 -0500 (CDT)
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Hud work
I think hud money repairing an airstream is hundreds of times better
than them putting money into public housing projects as is done in
mississippi with very negative results. I have never received any
government funding but with out the generosity of people allowing us to
work on our travel trailers on their property the government would have
long ago seized our home as being unfit to live in. It is right for the
government to help people in their own homes. That gives me a little
hope that this country might yet be saved.
To Bob: I am sorry government funding of your militia group did not come
threw.
rusty
------------------------------
Message Number: 9
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 22:45:17 -0400
From: "Weimers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Brake line fuses
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> 12 volt self resetting circuit breakers are used in charge lines.
Typically
> 40 amps. NEVER, EVER, use any form of any kind of fuse in a brake line. To
do
> so is asking for disaster. If a short in the brake system did develop,
some
> braking would still take place. It might not be enough, but it certainly
is
> better than zero.
Are you saying that you should not use a circuit breaker either?? I
realized the folly of using a fuse after I thought about it, but I figured
that a circuit breaker would come back on. Without a circuit breaker, I'm
afraid I might have an electrical fire. I can see your point, however.
> Shorts in 12 brake systems are almost always related to poor or lack of
> proper care
And with a 31 year old trailer and a 29 year old tow car, I get even more
concerned!
While on this subject, what is the proper gauge of wire to run from the
brake controller to the back of the tow vehicle?
I have not been happy with my brakes since my kids pulled my breakaway
switch and fried my magnets. (1971 Globe Trotter, single axle). With the
new magnets the brakes are just not as strong as they once were. I can't get
the wheels to skid even if I adjust the controller to maximum ....unless I
am moving slowly and/or the surface is slippery. I figure that the brakes
should be able to lock up on dry pavement at, say, 35MPH if the rheostat is
on maximum setting. Under normal conditions, I figure that the rheostat in
the controller should be adjusted so that they won't skid. In other words,
normally they would NOT be working at their maximum capacity. The way mine
are now, I have no reserve. Sometimes I wish they were a little stronger.
How do you usually judge if the braking action is OK? Are there different
strength magnets? I've tried adjusting the shoes to no avail. What do you
think I should look at next? What voltage should I see at the brake magnets?
MARC WEIMER
Punxsutawney, PA - Home of the Groundhog
#15767
1963 Globe Trotter
1971 Globe Trotter
http://users.penn.com/~mweimer/weimer.html
------------------------------
Message Number: 10
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 22:58:18 -0400
From: "Jim Stewart" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Bambi awning
I installed a 6' Fiamma bag awning on my Bambi. It slides right into the
awning rail, but at only 6', doesn't provide must shelter. It also is rather
difficult for one person to set up. Some people on this list have suggested
a separate collapsible shelter. Fiamma has a web site listing sizes and
features if you really want it.
Jim
'61 Bambi
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pete Ryner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2002 9:44 PM
Subject: [VAC] Bambi awning
> My dad has a Bambi and wants to put an awning on. Trouble is that no one
we
> can find has a 6' awning. Does anyone have any experience or suggestions?
> I know he can have a fabric made and use poles, but it would have to be
> threaded into the trailer channel every time. Looking to avoid that
hassle.
> Thanks in advance
> Pete
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 11
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 22:59:38 -0400
From: "Weimers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Charge line fuses
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> The current capacity of wires from the National Electric Code is
> sometimes conservative. At 12 volts, voltage drop is often more critical
> than at 120 volts. ......<<<cut>>>
>
Thank you for your informative post. This helps a lot.
I have indeed noticed a lot of trouble with voltage drop through fuses
...especially the old glass tube fuses in my old cars. Some of them will
develop a voltage drop and resistance so great that the resulting heat seems
to melt the solder joint (or whatever) inside the fuse and they'll quit
working ....they still look good, but they are actually dead. I've had
probably a dozen do that in the last 30 years (in different cars). I tend to
like the automotive circuit breakers better than fuses especially in
important circuits like lights!
MARC WEIMER
Punxsutawney, PA
------------------------------
Message Number: 12
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 21:18:11 -0500
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Brake line fuses
probably the brake wire should be at least 12 gauge for minimum voltage
drop. Maybe 14 is passable.
With the rheostat (and sometimes there's an external resistor) set for
maximum brake current, there should be nearly battery voltage at the
brake magnets. With only two brakes that should be a condition easy to
achieve.
I've had several headlight fuses fail from fatigue at the middle of the
fuse element. They got warm enough with the headlight load to expand and
a few years of expansion and contraction broke them. Fuses coming
unsoldered because of heat the clips gets worse as the fuse rating
increases in any particular package. 1/4" diameter fuses and clips don't
handle 40 amps well.
Gerald J.
--
Entire content copyright Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer.
Reproduction by permission only.
------------------------------
Message Number: 13
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 23:22:28 -0500
From: "John R. Kleven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: HUD work on 66 Safari
How is the date on my PC? I didn't know that was important. My punctuation
and grammar are coming along though, I have been working on it!
Randy
> how about correcting your date on your pc??
> it is July, not August.
> thanks
> chas
>
>
>
> ...
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 14
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 23:45:37 -0400
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: moderation
If you know a thread is going to be banned, please behave like mature adults
and not post to it.
Please keep personal arguments off list, the rest of us don't want to hear
it. However if you are being hounded by another list member and cannot
handle the problem yourself, come to me offlist, maybe I can help.
Perhaps some of you need to be removed from the list without warning. My
predecessor did this on a regular basis and I am beginning to understand
why.
Believe me, you don't want a grumpy monitor. So please do not give me a
reason to be grumpy!
Monitor Scott
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 15
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 22:54:39 -0500
From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: HUD work on 66 Safari
Dear Bob ,
I for one have listened intently to the way you fixed up your home. I am
proud if ANY of the money you spent came from the taxes I pay. EVERYONE
deserves a safe clean home to live in. I too live in my airstream full time.
this is NOT the lap of luxury that Chas may think it is. we are a family of
4 and it is what we need to do to accomplish our goals. I am sorry and
embarrassed by Chas responce I am a 7th generation Texan and few of us are
as redneck as chas please don't think we are all like that, most of us
Texans are reasonable compassionate people.
Gina
in texas
71 sovereign
>From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [VAC] Re: HUD work on 66 Safari
>Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 13:09:50 -0700
>MIME-Version: 1.0
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>
>A VAC MEMBER IN TEXAS SENT THIS:
> > On Sat, 24 July 2002 11:59:54 -0700, "My Airstream"
><[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>wrote:
> > >
> > >All in all I thank my lucky stars for the HUD grant. It is allowing
> > >necessary repairs that I could otherwise not afford.
> >
> > welfare is great!
> > all of us taxpayers are happy to see that you are happy enjoying our tax
> > dollars.
> > keep on sucking those Fed dollars, as you seem to be a true son of the
>Socialist
> > State of Kalifornia... meanwhile, the rest of us not members of a
> > Socialist/Communist society will continue paying for our own repairs.
>Really
> > cannot believe that anyone would get on any elist and brag about using
>welfare
> > for anything.!!
> >
> > fwiw
> > chas
>
>I felt compelled to publish my reply.
>Dear Chas,
>I don't think you really know me OR you wouldn't say such things. I had my
>first job at age 5 in New York as a TV actor. I worked more or less
>straight through until my mid 50's. During that time I founded two world
>industries, videography and downhill bicycle touring. Today thousands of
>people make their livings in the industries that I founded and nurtured.
>
>I will not get into the personal tragedies that caused me to lose my
>businesses but I will say that at one time I was among the most sued men in
>the world. People just wouldn't take responsibility for their actions and
>when they fell down on their bicycles they tried to take it from my
>company.
>
>You sound like a nice enough fellow . . . albeit judgmental. Maybe we
>could
>have a sporting wager on who has paid the most taxes to date. One thing I
>am sure of, is that YOU are not paying for MY grant. I covered it a long
>time ago.
>
>One more thing. There are many people on this list who could use the help
>of HUD to maintain their modest Airstream homes. I related my experiences
>to help them without a thought that it would offend you or others.
>
>Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
>66 Airstream Safari
>Mira Mar Mobile Park
>Oceanside, CA
>
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 16
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 04:01:16 +0000
From: "H. A. K." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: help w/comparing years
My 52 flying cloud and my 67 caravel have grey water tanks !!!
(course I had to install them my self --- but hey,,, make them
how you want them)
hak
>Our 72 has a gray water tank. Just in case anybody wants to know.
>
> Ron and Barbara Ainsworth
>'72 Ambassador International 29'
>email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
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>
sincerely yours,
K. Andre' Hylton
52 trotter
72 safari
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------------------------------
Message Number: 17
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 23:01:25 -0500
From: Kevin D Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Trailer Brake Aggressiveness
Greetings Marc!
When you replaced the magnets was there an aggressiveness rating
mentioned? I hadn't heard of such a thing until I had the brakes
rebuilt on my '64 Overlander in 1999. It seems that the magnets are
available in a variety of aggressiveness ratings. For instance the
factory speicified 4,000 pound aggressiveness rating for the original
electric brakes. The fully loaded backing plates of the correct
diameter were not available with 4,000 pound aggressiveness ratings so
we upgraded to 6,000 pound aggressiveness rating - - the trailer can now
nearly overpower the Suburban brakes when the trailer brake controller
is adjusted to full power.
I am assuming that if the magnets are available in 4,000 and 6,000 pound
agressiveness ratings that they may be available in other ratings and
may explain why your brakes aren't performing to your satisfaction.
Good luck in finding a solution to your concern.
Kevin D. Allen
1964 Overlander International/1999 GMC K2500 Suburban
1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
WBCCI/VAC #6359
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] On Behalf Of
Weimers
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2002 8:45 PM
To: Multiple recipients of VACList
Subject: [VAC] Re: Brake line fuses
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
I have not been happy with my brakes since my kids pulled my breakaway
switch and fried my magnets. (1971 Globe Trotter, single axle). With
the
new magnets the brakes are just not as strong as they once were. I can't
get
the wheels to skid even if I adjust the controller to maximum ....unless
I
am moving slowly and/or the surface is slippery. I figure that the
brakes
should be able to lock up on dry pavement at, say, 35MPH if the rheostat
is
on maximum setting. Under normal conditions, I figure that the rheostat
in
the controller should be adjusted so that they won't skid. In other
words,
normally they would NOT be working at their maximum capacity. The way
mine
are now, I have no reserve. Sometimes I wish they were a little
stronger.
How do you usually judge if the braking action is OK? Are there
different
strength magnets? I've tried adjusting the shoes to no avail. What do
you
think I should look at next? What voltage should I see at the brake
magnets?
MARC WEIMER
Punxsutawney, PA - Home of the Groundhog
#15767
1963 Globe Trotter
1971 Globe Trotter
http://users.penn.com/~mweimer/weimer.html
------------------------------
Message Number: 18
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 22:57:57 -0400
From: "Mr. Joy H. Hansen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Freeze damaged plumbing help and welding plastic information
Hi Don,
Got several responses to my request and must just say thanks to those
providing the information.
However, I used PEX on the '69 Safari that I hope to finish one day. Most
plumbing is installed, but not tested. Then, I have confidence in my work
when the PEX gauge fits! :)
Anyway as a note to all, to get at the panel hiding the shower mixer valve,
I decided to remove the approximate 1 inch deco
trim from the trim strip. I hope it's replicable? Just moving it caused a
fracturing like glass - it's history. That gone, I removed the aluminum
trim strip. I was astonished that the panel I wanted to remove to get at
the mixing valve plumbing was only secured at the top? The other dimensions
were
silicone. Made it easy to remove the plumbing and observe the holes in the
lines and the varied diameter of the 3/8 tube. My local plumbing shop does
not have a stocked 3/8 tube to 1/2 inch PEX. So, I use a 3/8 compression
fitting with a 1/2 inch pipe sweat fitting on the other end. I do have a
1/2 inch sweat pipe to 1/2 inch pipe. Messy, but it
does the job. Are there other ideas for connecting PEX to the original
mixing valve, or should the valve be replaced after so many years of
service?
Certainly the sink faucet needs to be changed as the tubes were distorted
all the way the faucet. The connectors are lead with nylon inserts and
the faucet connectors are badly corroded. I have to remove the entire basin
top to reglue the plywood backing and have it mostly free. However, the "P"
trap will give me problems as with the Safari, the assembler always put a
dab of glue on the fittings to be sure they don't loosen. Unfortunately, it
means that the "P" trap must be sacrificed sometimes. Hopefully I can
remove the strainer fitting; however, I needed brute force to get the thing
separated in the Safari. Nasty that a dab of glue causes such a tragic
restoration. Added to this is the corrosion of so many years and the parts
are forever joined - though leaky!
However, looking at the difference between the '69 Safari bathroom and the
'74 Argosy bathroom. I like the Safari tub, but not the necessary
horrendous destruction to get at replacing things. Might change my mind if
the black and gray water tanks are defective in the Argosy.
Then, you've been through all this and that's why your advice is so
meaningful.
Hope my restoration ramblings haven't put you to sleep. Maybe it's a
sickness or an addiction endless restoration of Airstream products. :)
Lots of thanks,
'69 Safari 23
WBCCI 1666
'74 Argosy 22, Joy
------------------------------
Message Number: 19
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 04:11:08 +0000
From: "H. A. K." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Bambi awning
You can have one cut down to size.
The roller tube is hollow (sorta).
you have to grind off the rivits to pull out the sping tension.
Then you can cut the tube to size (as well as the awning).
Warning --- if you want a seem on both ends of the awning fabric,,,
be sure to leave some extra (to fold over and sew).
I've cut down an awning or two --- its not that hard...
Just takes time,,,and remember measure twice and cut once
cause one you cut --- its a done deal
hak
>My dad has a Bambi and wants to put an awning on. Trouble is that no one
>we
>can find has a 6' awning. Does anyone have any experience or suggestions?
>I know he can have a fabric made and use poles, but it would have to be
>threaded into the trailer channel every time. Looking to avoid that
>hassle.
>Thanks in advance
>Pete
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
sincerely yours,
K. Andre' Hylton
52 trotter
72 safari
_________________________________________________________________
Chat with friends online, try MSN Messenger: http://messenger.msn.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 20
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 21:11:14 -0700
From: "Bob Hightower" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: moderation
For some reason, I have not been able to reply to the list. Is this some
temporary glitch?
Bob Hightower
'76 Sov
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Scheuermann" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, July 24, 2002 8:45 PM
Subject: [VAC] moderation
> If you know a thread is going to be banned, please behave like mature
adults
> and not post to it.
>
> Please keep personal arguments off list, the rest of us don't want to hear
> it. However if you are being hounded by another list member and cannot
> handle the problem yourself, come to me offlist, maybe I can help.
>
> Perhaps some of you need to be removed from the list without warning. My
> predecessor did this on a regular basis and I am beginning to understand
> why.
>
> Believe me, you don't want a grumpy monitor. So please do not give me a
> reason to be grumpy!
>
> Monitor Scott
> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
> When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 21
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 00:13:16 -0400
From: "Weimers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Brake line fuses
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dr. Gerald N. Johnson, electrical engineer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> With the rheostat (and sometimes there's an external resistor) set for
> maximum brake current, there should be nearly battery voltage at the
> brake magnets. With only two brakes that should be a condition easy to
> achieve.
What worries me about my setup is that I don't have or need to have an
external resistor. I remember my Dad's trailer had a long external resistor
on his trailer. If he hit the brakes without it, the wheels would lock up
fast at any speed. My brakes won't normally lock up with everything at
maximum.
I think I'll go out there tomorrow and see what kind of voltage I've got
back at the magnets. My tow vehicle is an old Chrysler. They are notorious
for poor electrical connections. Considering that I have my trailer brake
setup wired directly to my battery, however, I should have all the voltage I
want ...unless of couse, there is a weak link somewhere.
I'm wondering if I have the right magnets. My Airstream dealer sold 'em to
me.
>
> I've had several headlight fuses fail from fatigue at the middle of the
> fuse element. They got warm enough with the headlight load to expand and
> a few years of expansion and contraction broke them.
My '37 Dodge with the 6 volt system had a headlight fuse hot enough to cause
second degree burns when I touched it! Imagine the voltage drop on that
one! (And I was wondering why my headlights were so dim!)
MARC WEIMER
Punxsutawney, PA
------------------------------
Message Number: 22
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 23:34:29 -0500
From: "gina terrell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: HUD work on 66 Safari
seems our friend chas is perfect........
>From: "John R. Kleven" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of VACList <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [VAC] Re: HUD work on 66 Safari
>Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 23:22:28 -0500
>MIME-Version: 1.0
>Received: from [12.232.139.193] by hotmail.com (3.2) with ESMTP id
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>
>How is the date on my PC? I didn't know that was important. My
>punctuation
>and grammar are coming along though, I have been working on it!
>Randy
>
> > how about correcting your date on your pc??
> > it is July, not August.
> > thanks
> > chas
> >
> >
> >
> > ...
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
> > http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
> >
> > When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>To unsubscribe or change to a daily Digest format, please go to
>http://airstream.net/vaclist/listoffice.html
>
>When replying to a message, please delete all unnecessary original text
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
Join the world�s largest e-mail service with MSN Hotmail.
http://www.hotmail.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 23
Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 22:31:20 -0700
From: "Lauren Kruger" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Any Streamline owners out there?
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Hi all -
=20
I have been receiving this list for a while now, and am wondering if ther=
e are any people out there who are Streamline owners. I have a 1966 Stre=
amline Duke. While some of the info on your list is universal, I was hopi=
ng to hook up with people with Streamline specific information. I am look=
ing to find someone who might have a manual I can get a copy of. I'm also=
looking for replacement latches for my cabinets, any ideas would be grea=
tly appreciated.
=20
Thanks...
=20
Lauren - Sonora, California
1966 Streamline Duke
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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<HTML><BODY STYLE=3D"font:10pt verdana; border:none;"><DIV> <DIV>Hi all -=
</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>I have been receiving this list for a while=
now, and am wondering if there are any people out there who are Streamli=
ne owners. I have a 1966 Streamline Duke. While some of the in=
fo on your list is universal, I was hoping to hook up with=
people with Streamline specific information. I am looking to f=
ind someone who might have a manual I can get a copy of. I'm also looking=
for replacement latches for my cabinets, any ideas would be greatly appr=
eciated.</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <DIV>Thanks...</DIV> <DIV> </DIV> <=
DIV>Lauren - Sonora, California</DIV> <DIV>1966 Streamline Duke</DIV> <DI=
V><A href=3D"msn:[EMAIL PROTECTED]@/compose.htm?NW=3Dtrue&mailto:lulukruger=
@msn.com">[EMAIL PROTECTED]</A></DIV><BR><BR></DIV></BODY></HTML>
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------------------------------
Message Number: 24
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 01:57:52 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Size does matter - but how much?
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Hi y'all,
First time writing to the list - but I've been reading it for a long time now.
We are hoping to take our '69 Globetrotter (21') camping next month and I am
having trouble figuring out just where we can take it. Many campground
guides and websites list maximum RV lengths such as:
"Only small trailers up to 24 feet"
or
"Up to 34 foot motorhomes"
or
"Driveway length 30 feet"
etc.
If our Globetrotter is 21 feet and the Suburban towing it is 18 feet (not
counting the 17 foot canoe on top of it) - does that limit us to only sites
that are approximately 40 feet - which are few and far between in my favorite
campgrounds? OR should I figure that they would allow a 21 foot trailer in
almost any site and we could park the Suburban elsewhere?
Nitpicky camp hosts aside - what's the general rule of thumb here?
Thanks,
Virginia Fesunoff
1969 Globetrotter
17.4' Old Town Discovery
1996 Suburban
Riverside, California
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<HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2>Hi y'all,
<BR>
<BR>First time writing to the list - but I've been reading it for a long time now.
<BR>
<BR>We are hoping to take our '69 Globetrotter (21') camping next month and I am
having trouble figuring out just where we can take it. Many campground guides
and websites list maximum RV lengths such as:
<BR>
<BR>"Only small trailers up to 24 feet"
<BR>
<BR>or
<BR>
<BR>"Up to 34 foot motorhomes"
<BR>
<BR>or
<BR>
<BR>"Driveway length 30 feet"
<BR>etc.
<BR>
<BR>If our Globetrotter is 21 feet and the Suburban towing it is 18 feet (not counting
the 17 foot canoe on top of it) - does that limit us to only sites that are
approximately 40 feet - which are few and far between in my favorite campgrounds?
OR &<BR>
<BR>Nitpicky camp hosts aside - what's the general rule of thumb here?
<BR>
<BR>Thanks,
<BR>
<BR>Virginia Fesunoff
<BR>1969 Globetrotter
<BR>17.4' Old Town Discovery
<BR>1996 Suburban
<BR>Riverside, California</FONT></HTML>
--part1_d6.19c5638e.2a70ed60_boundary--
------------------------------
Message Number: 25
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 00:26:36 -0400
From: "Weimers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Trailer Brake Aggressiveness
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin D Allen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> Greetings Marc!
>
> When you replaced the magnets was there an aggressiveness rating
> mentioned?
No. I've been suspecting that this is exactly the problem I have
encountered. I'd say the dealer sold me a set for a dual axle set-up ,
which would be carrying 1/2 the weight my single axle does; I'd need more
aggressive brakes as a result. I think you have hit the nail on the head!!
Thanks.
I've got some parts ordered for my '63 GT project, so I'll be at the dealer
soon to collect them. I'll ask him about the aggressiveness ratings on his
magnets while I'm there.
> we upgraded to 6,000 pound aggressiveness rating - - the trailer can now
> nearly overpower the Suburban brakes when the trailer brake controller
> is adjusted to full power.
>
Now THAT'S what I'm looking for! (You never know when the brakes in an old
Town&Country might give up the ghost, now do you? ;-)
> Kevin D. Allen
> 1975 Cadillac Convertible (towcar in-training)
Got the old Cadillac going yet? You have a much more expensive project
getting that one going than I had! It ought to be "way cool", however!
MARC WEIMER
Punxsutawney, PA - Home of the Groundhog
#15767
1963 Globe Trotter
1971 Globe Trotter
http://users.penn.com/~mweimer/weimer.html
------------------------------
Message Number: 26
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 04:27:25 -0700
From: Rivka <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Awning storage solution?
Might be totally barking up the wrong Airstream, but it seems that i
keep hearing people complain about making/using older "pole style"
awnings. complaining mostly about set-up and take-down.
now maybe this has already been thought of, or maybe someone can
tell me why it wont work, otherwise it seems like a nice solution to
this problem of having to pull of and on the plain pole awnings
people have in older models.
***now im assuming that what we are starting with is basically just a
square/rectangular piece of fabric, run in the channel connected to
the trailer, with some rigid front edge and two poles at the corners.
(i may be partially wrong about that assumption, but it's what i
gather from looking a bunches of photos.)
so if the problem is having to feed it in and then pull it out if the
channel for each use, then hear the idea...
1 flip the upright poles up horizontal to meet up with the main front edge pole
2 roll it up, incasing all three poles, all the way to the trailer
body as tight and neat as possible (rolling under i think is a
important thing as not to catch water later)
3 at some point before you are now standing holding a heavy roll,
hopefully you have installed a few snap taps that go from bottom to
top of the roll, snaping back into the trailer.
thus keeping it rolled and tightly hugging the outer skin, hopefully
neatly to be more than sufficient to travel with in place.
( i also have a idea for doing it without mounting this snap fitting
in the skin for those people not willing to change the skin)
really hope this has already been done, it seems paper clip obvious.
let me know
ps, for cool style points i would think it great to line the last 8
inches or so (whatever showed on the outside on the last roll) with
silver material, so that when rolled up, it would blend/match the
skin styling more.
--
Rivka & "Destiny"
My '66 Airstream Ambassador
"I am looking for something. I don't know what, but I'm sure I'll
know when I find it.
If you have it or know where I can find it, please let me know." -Who Knows
------------------------------
Message Number: 27
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 07:57:30 -0400
From: "Weimers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Size does matter - but how much?
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> If our Globetrotter is 21 feet and the Suburban towing it is 18 feet (not
> counting the 17 foot canoe on top of it) - does that limit us to only
sites
> that are approximately 40 feet - which are few and far between in my
favorite
> campgrounds? OR should I figure that they would allow a 21 foot trailer
in
> almost any site and we could park the Suburban elsewhere?
>
I'm not sure, but maybe the length of the campsite, as listed in the
campground guides, has more to do with the flat part of the site. Sometimes
the approach (where the car is parked) might be at a nasty angle, but we've
had our 21 foot trailer in just about any site we wanted except for sites
designated as "tent only". In my experience, the 21 foot trailer still has
great maneuverability, yet is big enough for us to live in. I believe that
you could get your 21 foot GT into any site they say a pop-up could get into
...That's about what we have done. Sometimes it's been a pretty tight
squeeze. Sometimes the car has to be parked unattached to the trailer.
Just make sure you use a good "spotter" to help you park.
I think they seem to rate these campsite lengths pretty conservatively.
Have fun!
MARC WEIMER
Punxsutawney, PA - Home of the Groundhog
#15767
1963 Globe Trotter
1971 Globe Trotter
http://users.penn.com/~mweimer/weimer.html
------------------------------
Message Number: 28
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 09:03:48 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: some civility, please
Folks, please, let us discuss Airsteams, not politics and taxes.
Just Plain Polly
1964 Globe Trotter
Colorado
WBCCI 7113
------------------------------
Message Number: 29
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 08:27:23 -0500
From: "Louis Joyner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
Andy:
Please stop being coy and tell us what we're all dying (or dancing and
holding it) to know: which toilet is it that fits under the fiberglas shelf?
I know one family of 6 that will be relieved to get the news.
Louis Joyner
'64 Overlander just back from a 5000 mile shakedown
>
> Message Number: 43
> Date: Wed, 24 Jul 2002 16:57:13 EDT
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> Bob. The Airstream factory and I work on a replacement years ago. However,
> you must open the fiberglass shelf as the replacement toilet is dropped
down
> through the bench and then tied into the floor flange. As of this time, I
am
> aware of only one that will fit.
>
> Andy
>
>
------------------------------
Message Number: 30
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 09:47:01 -0400
From: "john or cindy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: 1965 Safari for sale
Hi fellow listers
This is a heads up notice that I just listed a friends unfinished project
trailer for sale in our VAC classifieds section. $1200.
Thanks
John Young
WBCCI & VAC 6034
------------------------------
Message Number: 31
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 11:00:21 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re:
Louis.
A dealer is in a very different position than an individual. I have no
problem giving out information that I know works and/or solves a problem.
However, it seems that there are a select few that become argumentative, and
want to go on and on and on with a subject, such as the recent HUD thing.
I simply don't have the time to become involved with that type of discussion.
As most of you know, I have been around the Airstream family for over 36
years, and have made many contributions to the product and family. The
Airstream factory will be the first to confirm that.
The greatest difficulty is selling parts to someone that has no tools, or
very few, has no mechanical background or ability, that becomes irate when
explicit and exacting detailed installation instructions are not provided.
We sell parts, offer some assistance with installation instructions, but we
cannot train someone to become a mechanic. I am not trying to be critical,
but facts are facts.
The replacement toilet for the rear bath models that have the bench seat is
made by Thetford and is model number 20920.
It is the "only" toilet that will fit, but I assure you that the installation
will not meet with some owners approval.
The instructions are simple. Cut a hole in the bench to match the toilet,
lower it in place and mount it to the floor flange. Seal the cut edges of the
bench. The toilet will be higher than the bench by about one inch.
It is not a perfect fit, but again, it is the only unit that Airstream and I
have found to work.
Now for the fun part. Watch all the negative feedback.
When that happens, I will await responses from others that will defend or go
to bat for someone that is more than willing to share knowledge in positive
ways.
The various Airstream sites, this one included, are to share knowledge and to
be helpful at least in a reasonable way to each other. It is not, in our
opinion, a place to attack anyone, for any reason.
A dealer overall will always have more answers than any individual, only
because they get exposed to many many things that most owners are not exposed
to.
Differences of opinions, and the reasons why, are always welcomed.
Arguments and bashing serves no useful purpose except to satisfy someone's
ego.
Working together, as best each of us can, with the time that each of us can
contribute, will contribute considerable to the advancement of
"Airstreaming."
To that end, we have been dedicated for over 36 years, and will continue to
do so.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 32
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 11:06:08 -0400
From: Dick Kenan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Unable to reply; was moderation
At 09:11 PM 7/24/2002 -0700, you wrote:
>For some reason, I have not been able to reply to the list. Is this some
>temporary glitch?
I haven't noticed one, but it must be a glitch of some kind. Scott's
warning was not directed at you.
- Dick
(5368)
"God Himself, sir, does not propose to judge a man until his life is over.
Why should you and I?"
-Samuel Johnson, lexicographer (1709-1784)
---------------------------------------
Dick Kenan Tel: 770-451-0672
Retired and loving it!
WBCCI # 5368, 28' 1995 Excella
Atlanta
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.mindspring.com/~as5368/
------------------------------
Message Number: 33
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 10:33:47 -0500
From: "Don Hardman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:
----- Original Message -----
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Louis.
The replacement toilet for the rear bath models that have the bench seat is
made by Thetford and is model number 20920. It is the "only" toilet that
will fit, but I assure you that the installation will not meet with some
owners approval. The instructions are simple. Cut a hole in the bench to
match the toilet, lower it in place and mount it to the floor flange. Seal
the cut edges of the
bench. The toilet will be higher than the bench by about one inch. It is not
a perfect fit, but again, it is the only unit that Airstream and I have
found to work.
Andy
inlandrv.com
airstreamparts.com
------------------------------
Message Number: 34
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 08:37:50 -0700
From: "Alec Fisken" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Trendsetters
The vintage Airstream movement has officially gone mainstream - for proof,
check out Pottery Barn's new Flying Cloud replica at this link:
http://ww1.potterybarn.com/cat/pip.cfm?grp=152695&scat1=ACC&cats=HMADEP&cur=
2&tot=13&src=shpcHMADEP%7Cp1
We all knew we were hip before our time, but now the rest of the world will
know too ;)
Kathy Fisken - Seattle
------------------------------
Message Number: 35
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 15:43:06 -0400
From: "Bill Mosko" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: message #30 7/25/03
Joy,
my shower mixing valve is not passing water. i'm thinking it is a moem &
seals may be blocked. after removing the knob, i am stumped. is a special
tool requiered to remove stem assy ?
69 International Soverien Land Yacth
Bill Mosko [EMAIL PROTECTED]
------------------------------
Message Number: 36
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 15:04:46 -0500
From: "Jim Combs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Freeze damaged plumbing help and welding plastic in formation
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Just FYI: I bought a brand new Moen shower valve at Home Depot
to replace the original out of my '76 Sovereign. I was a bit
amazed to find out that the new one is an almost exact match.
I mean, exact down to the casting.
The one difference being the pipe connections. Instead of
sweat joints, it has nice female NPT threads. The next isle
over at HD had the brass PEX fittings that fit. Male threads
to barb (for the crimp on PEX). Very slick install.
Jimbo / '76 Sovereign
-----Original Message-----
From: Mr. Joy H. Hansen [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
[snip]
> Are there other ideas for connecting PEX to the original
>mixing valve, or should the valve be replaced after so many years of
>service?
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<TITLE>RE: [VAC] Re: Freeze damaged plumbing help and welding plastic
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<P><FONT SIZE=2>Just FYI: I bought a brand new Moen shower valve at Home Depot
</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>to replace the original out of my '76 Sovereign. I was a bit
</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>amazed to find out that the new one is an almost exact match. </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>I mean, exact down to the casting. </FONT>
</P>
<P><FONT SIZE=2>The one difference being the pipe connections. Instead of </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>sweat joints, it has nice female NPT threads. The next isle
</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>over at HD had the brass PEX fittings that fit. Male threads
</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>to barb (for the crimp on PEX). Very slick install.</FONT>
</P>
<P><FONT SIZE=2>Jimbo / '76 Sovereign</FONT>
</P>
<P><FONT SIZE=2>-----Original Message-----</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>From: Mr. Joy H. Hansen [<A
HREF="mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]</A>]</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>[snip]</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>> Are there other ideas for connecting PEX to the
original</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>>mixing valve, or should the valve be replaced after so many years
of</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>>service?</FONT>
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Message Number: 37
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 13:07:17 -0700
From: "My Airstream" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Thetford Replacement
Just as the list was getting the answer to Thetford toilet replacement model
we completed sealing our Aqua Magic distribution box and thoroughly
lubricating the flushing mechanism. When we turned the water on, the
flusher began to leak in two places. One is in front of the flushing
mechanism and the other is where the water input enters the toilet. The
gasket between the input tube and porcelin is dry and shot.
So now we are wondering if we take the toilet apart will we be able to
procure or fabricate the parts OR are there some unseen parts that just
can't be found.
Bob Kiger http://cruiserbob.com
66 Airstream Safari
Mira Mar Mobile Park
Oceanside, CA
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Louis.
> The replacement toilet for the rear bath models that have the bench seat
is
> made by Thetford and is model number 20920. It is the "only" toilet that
> will fit, but I assure you that the installation will not meet with some
> owners approval. The instructions are simple. Cut a hole in the bench to
> match the toilet, lower it in place and mount it to the floor flange.
Seal
> the cut edges of the
> bench. The toilet will be higher than the bench by about one inch. It is
not
> a perfect fit, but again, it is the only unit that Airstream and I have
> found to work.
> Andy
> inlandrv.com
> airstreamparts.com
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Message Number: 38
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 15:35:05 -0500
From: "Jim Combs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: message #30 7/25/03
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Pull off the chrome outer sleeve. Then there's a C-clip near the
top of the valve that you can pull with a pair of needle nose
pliers or a small pointed pick. The valve will lift out after
the C-clip comes off.
Jimbo / '76 Sovereign
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill Mosko [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
>
>my shower mixing valve is not passing water. i'm thinking it is a moem &
>seals may be blocked. after removing the knob, i am stumped. is a special
>tool requiered to remove stem assy ?
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<P><FONT SIZE=2>Pull off the chrome outer sleeve. Then there's a C-clip near the
</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>top of the valve that you can pull with a pair of needle nose </FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>pliers or a small pointed pick. The valve will lift out after
</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>the C-clip comes off.</FONT>
</P>
<P><FONT SIZE=2>Jimbo / '76 Sovereign</FONT>
</P>
<P><FONT SIZE=2>-----Original Message-----</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>From: Bill Mosko [<A
HREF="mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]";>mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]</A>]</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>></FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>>my shower mixing valve is not passing water. i'm thinking it is a
moem &</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>>seals may be blocked. after removing the knob, i am
stumped. is a special</FONT>
<BR><FONT SIZE=2>>tool requiered to remove stem assy ?</FONT>
</P>
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Message Number: 39
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 19:30:20 -0400
From: "Weimers" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Trailer Brake Aggressiveness
Kevin:
I decided to test my trailer brakes this evening. I wanted to see if
they are getting the proper voltage. (which might be causing them to stop
poorly). I discovered a new hazard ....children who drive their own cars can
take off with Dad's tools locked in the trunk! That's where my voltmeter
is: in my son's car who left for the State of Indiana last Sunday.
So, I decided on an alternate test. I found a 35 watt headlight bulb and
patched it into the trailer brake magnet wire connections (in parallel). The
bulb went from very dim to very bright as the brake controller was depressed
...just like it should. The brightness of the bulb was, as far as I could
see, just the same as when I had it hooked up to my (brand new) battery in
the car. If my wires were corroded, or too small, or if there was some
deficiency in the electrical system someplace, the bulb would have appeared
dimmer. So, without proper quantitative measurements, I'm going to rely on
my observations (and gut reactions) and declare that I am getting plenty of
voltage to my magnets. I could hear them operating also. In conclusion, I
believe my magnets are just not strong enough. I'd say that your
recommendation about the aggressiveness of the magnets will solve the
problem of my weak brakes. I wish I knew what I have now! I wonder if there
is any way to tell.
MARC WEIMER
Punxsutawney, PA
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin D Allen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of VACList" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, July 25, 2002 12:01 AM
Subject: [VAC] Re: Trailer Brake Aggressiveness
>
>
> Greetings Marc!
>
> When you replaced the magnets was there an aggressiveness rating
> mentioned? I hadn't heard of such a thing until I had the brakes
> rebuilt on my '64 Overlander in 1999. It seems that the magnets are
> available in a variety of aggressiveness ratings
<<<<<<<<<<.......cut.........>>>>>>>>>>
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Message Number: 40
Date: Thu, 25 Jul 2002 19:37:09 -0400
From: Ron Ainsworth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Land Yatch vs Int.
Hi Chas,
>BTW, anybody know why they call this coach "International Land Yatch"? I
>thought it would be one or the other, but not both.
could you tell us where you find that term written or ... where did you see
it?
that might help us to dispel or learn something new.
thanks
chas
Sure Chuck. The "Land Yatch" part is on the plate forward of the door. The
"International" is amidship the hull.
Further confusion enters the picture when you look in the owner's manual and
there are line drawings showing layouts of both models, and you realize your
metal jewel has a little of both types, but not all of either.
See why I'm confused?
Ron and Barbara Ainsworth
'72 Ambassador International 29'
email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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