For me, the only remaining advantage of FF over smaller sensor size is
the smaller depth of field of FF, when this can be simulated nicely in
software, I will be ready to step over to smaller sensor sizes.
Mirrorless is the future, I think, as it gives more freedom to the lens
designer because
Dear Group,
Googlin I found for down load:
Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Classic CC 2020 9.0.0.10 RePack
What is this Newer than 8.4?
Greetz, Jos
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Thanks Bipin Gupta,
How large are the DNG files that you are processing? (K1?)
greetz, Jos
On 10/30/2019 6:22 PM, Bipin Gupta wrote:
Past 4-years I've been using a 4K (3840x2160 pixels) Toshiba Satellite
P50t-B Laptop with 64 Bit Windows 10, Intel i7 CPU, 20 GB RAM, Dual
Video Cards, 1 TB Fast
,and repeat the import action, than it goes faster.
So I have to use fresh files for a test on the same computer.
Greetz, Jos
On 10/30/2019 8:11 PM, Larry Colen wrote:
On Oct 28, 2019, at 1:58 PM, Jos de Fotograaf wrote:
Dear group,
I need a new laptop and want one that is faster on Lightroom
Thanks Ralf,
I have now a Nvidia Geforce GTX. I will dive in the options. Does it
mean that a laptop good for gaming would be good for LR?
Greetz, Jos
On 10/29/2019 11:18 PM, Ralf R Radermacher wrote:
Am 28.10.19 um 21:58 schrieb Jos de Fotograaf:
I need a new laptop and want one
important that simple I/O tests.
I now use a iPad instead, defer any serious processing until I am back home.
Even my 3-4 year old iPad is faster than my 10-year old laptop.
stan
On Oct 28, 2019, at 4:58 PM, Jos de Fotograaf wrote:
Dear group,
I need a new laptop and want one that is faster
Dear group,
I need a new laptop and want one that is faster on Lightroom processing
than my present HP pavilion with i7 and SSD
I think of ordering several "mobile workstations" upto 2000euro and do a
comparative test with them.
Thinking of i7, 8th or 9th generation / 4 or 6 cores/16 or 32 GB/
Right Godfrey,
maybe the last really great thing we did before our role in evolution
will be taken over by AI / Robotics.
I would give a few years of my life for a glance in the future.
Greetz, Jos van der Hijden
On 7/20/2019 7:20 PM, Godfrey DiGiorgi wrote:
And today is the day, 50
Hi Doug,
I tried the Sigma 8-18mm on my K1.
On FF it gave only APS-C coverage as it was limited by the build on
metal sun-shade.
I carefully cut of the sunshade, this increased the coverage to a square
APS-C coverage at the same optical quality as original APS-C
The coverage increased a bit
Oh Bill make a copy of your old cameraraw file befor you start
modifiying it!
On 8/11/2018 11:27 PM, Jos de Fotograaf wrote:
Hi Bill,
Profile I do not know, but lens naming I do as follows:
I have a picture taken with a K5 and this Sigma 10-20mm this name is
not known by light room,
When I
Hi Jostijn,
Interesting option
Is my understanding right, that I have to add the information manually
to each picture, sometimes in batch?
Greetz, Jos
On 8/10/2018 11:14 PM, Jostein wrote:
Bill,
I'm still on Lightoom 5, and anyways use a number of unconventional
optical setups. I use a
Hi Bill,
Profile I do not know, but lens naming I do as follows:
I have a picture taken with a K5 and this Sigma 10-20mm this name is not
known by light room,
When I read its metadata with the little program "PhotoMe", it shows
lens ID: 3 44
When I import this photo into lightroom, the lens is
; and the white house sets off the colors of the other objects.
What is the orange rectangle below and to the left of the house’s chimney? One
could clone it out.
Rick
On Jul 29, 2018, at 10:45 AM, Jos de Fotograaf wrote:
Several people gathered at the spot to take pictures.
Many already left
I agree with the remarks of Mark: robustness of Metz flashes is less
than their products 30-40 years ago (the hammer type that could be used
as a hammer!)
But, lets be fair, presents types are relatively cheaper and have more
options.
I had a AF-1 and a AF-2 both failed after a few years due to
Thanks Henk, location is "Van Gogh village" Nuenen, half of my family
lived there for many centuries
On 7/29/2018 5:07 PM, Henk Terhell wrote:
Great picture and location!
Henk
Op 2018-07-29 om 16:45 schreef Jos de Fotograaf:
Several people gathered at the spot to take pictures.
Ma
Several people gathered at the spot to take pictures.
Many already left, because "too cloudy" and nothing to be seen.
Than, suddenly the moon became visible, vaguely with the bare eye, much
better on the sensor, proving again that the sensor sees much better in
the dark, than the human eye.
K1
out
ambiguity. Take, for example, a look at how the Canon lens-IDs are
sorted in EXIF here:
https://sno.phy.queensu.ca/~phil/exiftool/TagNames/Canon.html#LensType
HTH,
Jostein
Den 18.07.2018 11:47, skrev Jos de Fotograaf:
Dear group,
I was looking into the cameraraw.dll file to correct the lensname of
some of
Dear group,
I was looking into the cameraraw.dll file to correct the lensname of
some of my SIGMA lenses.
I noticed that there are lensnames for Pentax, Sigma, Tamron and some
more brands, but not for Canon or Nikon.
My question is: how is the lensnaming for Canon and Nikon applied in
I have a manual and I can ask.
My problem is that I can not ask if I do not know the right question.
I use my K1 as an advanced user, but there are probably things that I
don't know, but would like to know
The manual is not for comfortable reading, a well written book could be
helpful.
Is the *Pentax K-1 e-book by Yvon Bourque worth buying?
Greetz, Jos
*
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spend some time to find ways to convert my stereo
DNG's to available 3D TV.
Greetz, Jos
On 13-Mar-18 11:14, Jan van Wijk wrote:
Hi Jos,
On Sun, 11 Mar 2018 19:48:30 +0100 Jos de Fotograaf wrote:
I succeeded in opening the viewer, it slides open by strong, but controlled
force.
Holding the view
forum on dpreview.com where you might find
some more qualified answers: https://www.dpreview.com/forums/1050
On Sun, Mar 11, 2018 at 9:18 AM Jos de Fotograaf <josdefotogr...@4prof.nl>
wrote:
Dear group,
I want to use my Pentax stereo adapter on my K1.
Want to use the stereo pictures in
Dear group,
I want to use my Pentax stereo adapter on my K1.
Want to use the stereo pictures in modern 3D systems.
In analogue days I looked to the stereo slides with the Pentax stereo
viewer.
For starting I think to display the "stereo slides" on a smartphone and
look to the picture through
I see it differently:
Also people with one eye can see perspective.
Perspective has to do with relative distance to the subject.
At the right distance for a certain perspective, you have to chose a
angle of view for the wanted size of he subject.
Greetz, Jos
On 02-Mar-18 21:52, Igor PDML-StR
/13/2018 6:25 PM, Jos de Fotograaf wrote:
To improve the success rate with large groups I follow some advises:
* I tell them to go closer to each other. CLOSER!
* You must see my lens with both eyes, otherwise you are covered partly
* If there is a flashgun I tell them to see the flash with both
To improve the success rate with large groups I follow some advises:
* I tell them to go closer to each other. CLOSER!
* You must see my lens with both eyes, otherwise you are covered partly
* If there is a flashgun I tell them to see the flash with both eyes
otherwise there will be a
Introduction:
My Metz 58AF-1 got defective zooming mechanism than I bought a Metz
58AF-2 after 3 years the flash tube blew into peaces, I opened it to try
to replace the tube and found out that the tube is too small and can be
overloaded too easy. I reworked the head to fit a bigger tube, but
Thanks for all comments,
There are so many wideangle and fisheye Samyangs on the market, that
makes it difficult to decide which one to order.
Some have no click aperture, handy for film, but not for stills I think,
probably no "A" position on the aperture ring.
Also it is not always clear if
Dear group,
I am considering Samyang 14/2.8 for my K1.
Any comments?
Greetz, Jos
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t;s...@stans-photography.info> wrote:
Page 89-90?
On May 12, 2017, at 3:49 PM, Jos de Fotograaf <josdefotogr...@4prof.nl> wrote:
Dear group, Ricoh website tells me to find the password for connection in the
user manual..I was not successful..plse help...
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that page shows the screenshots where to put the password, but what is
the password to put in?
On 12-May-17 22:09, Stanley Halpin wrote:
Page 89-90?
On May 12, 2017, at 3:49 PM, Jos de Fotograaf <josdefotogr...@4prof.nl> wrote:
Dear group, Ricoh website tells me to find the pa
Dear group, Ricoh website tells me to find the password for connection
in the user manual..I was not successful..plse help...
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Fantastic! I never noticed that little drawing! Thx
Greetz, Jos
On 30-Mar-17 22:19, postmas...@robertstech.com wrote:
Jos de Fotograaf <josdefotogr...@4prof.nl> wrote:
To do some lens testing I want to have a well defined subject distance.
I think this is defined to the po
To do some lens testing I want to have a well defined subject distance.
I think this is defined to the position of the sensor surface.
Is there an indication on the body for this?
Greetz, Jos van der Hijden
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Jos de Fotograaf wrote:
_Is DST in the GPS info itself?_
No
Some members suggested that the camera needs look-up tables to see DST data of
specific countries.
I am not so sure about that.
You need either DST tables (combined with timezone info), OR manual setting of
DST yes/no
I did not get
p the "OK" button in the middle of the 4 way controller to zoom
in. You can control the amount of zooming with the rear control wheel.
Mark
On 3/29/2017 2:19 PM, Jos de Fotograaf wrote:
I want to compare sharpness of several FF lenses on K1.
I have those test pictures with defini
Thank you Mark, this is very helpful!
On 29-Mar-17 21:07, Mark C wrote:
In live view tap the "OK" button in the middle of the 4 way controller
to zoom in. You can control the amount of zooming with the rear
control wheel.
Mark
On 3/29/2017 2:19 PM, Jos de Fotograaf wrot
I want to compare sharpness of several FF lenses on K1.
I have those test pictures with definition lines and want to focus
manually onto those lines.
I could use my Pentax magnifier on the optical viewfinder, but I would
prefer to use the electronic viewfinder (live view) in enlarge mode.
easier -
one less thing to clutter my head with. In fact even without gps I think I
just leave them on UTC.
On 27 Mar 2017, at 19:15, Jos de Fotograaf <josdefotogr...@4prof.nl>
wrote:
Stan, your explanation of GPS sounds logic, thks.
The GPS is also used when shooting ASTRO, but I did not t
be to
verify that you have the latest firmware. But I know that I have been in many
situations where the auto-set time on various GPS capable devices has simply
been wrong.
stan
On Mar 27, 2017, at 10:35 AM, Jos de Fotograaf <josdefotogr...@4prof.nl> wrote:
Hi Stanley, thks. So it shoul
DST
local time.
So, not sure what the issue is with yours, but it does seem that it is working
for me.
stan
On Mar 27, 2017, at 8:46 AM, Jos de Fotograaf <josdefotogr...@4prof.nl> wrote:
This weekend my country (Netherlands) moved to summer time (DST)
I could have changed the clock of
ng, I select the "destination" time zone, and in the fall I
go back to the "hometown" time zone.
Alternatively, you could check and uncheck DST as required.
On Mon, Mar 27, 2017 at 8:46 AM, Jos de Fotograaf
<josdefotogr...@4prof.nl> wrote:
This weekend my country (Netherlands) m
This weekend my country (Netherlands) moved to summer time (DST)
I could have changed the clock of my K1 the easy way by just set the
clock 1 hour later.
I decided to let it happen automatically.
In the menu I selected "GPS time sync"
Then I switched on GPS logging and left it on for one
of the petal hood so you
can compare with the original and see if it is making a difference in
that one corner? Perhaps the lower left because that one is likely to
be down no matter whether you are holding the camera and landscape or
portrait mode?
Jos de Fotograaf wrote:
You're right: the hood
The lens has a very nice image on APSC.
Optically the lens is rotation symmetrical.
So cutting the top and bottom pedal will for sure give me a perfect 1:1
8mm image, without any corner vignetting!!!
Cutting the side pedals will increase the FF image, at lesser optical
performance, how much
Bipin, thks for your tips.
plse see my remarks in your text
On 26-Feb-17 19:04, Bipin Gupta wrote:
STOP! Do not cut the Lens Hood out first. Note, it has a flower petal
type hood with the longer petal on the top & bottom.--> correct
It's these longer ones that causes the
the vignetting isn't from a decreasing image
circle as you zoom out?
I don't know one way or the other, but if you cut the hood and
discover that doesn't fix the problem, you'll be mighty pissed. :)
On Sat, Feb 25, 2017 at 2:31 PM, Jos de Fotograaf
<josdefotogr...@4prof.nl> wrote:
I have the Sigma
that removal would have
important consequences.
On 2/26/2017 9:16 AM, Steve Cottrell wrote:
On 26/2/17, Jos de Fotograaf, discombobulated, unleashed:
Must be alternative knowledge?
Ha ha - an alternative reality maybe ;-)
If you're going to cut a lens shade up, before you do I would suggest
Must be alternative knowledge?
On 26-Feb-17 01:19, Steve Cottrell wrote:
On 25/2/17, Jos de Fotograaf, discombobulated, unleashed:
And what is the best way to cut, with a sharp knife or with a Dremel, to
maintain a nice look?
The best way to cut is with your eyes closed and your hands
I have the Sigma 8-16mm and it gave me nice pictures on the K5. Sharper
than the Sigma 10-12 EX that I had for a while.
Using the 8-16mm on K1 in FF mode, is okay at 16mm, but zooming out,
brings in shadowing from the sun shade.
The sun shade is fixed to the lens and I am thinking of cutting
I had the same experience when using the new 28-105. This lens has the
focusing ring very close to the body. The lens has manual focus overide
and the ring turns too easy. Quite often I touch it unintentionally
after autofocusing.
On 08-Jan-17 22:04, Gonz wrote:
Question: How is the K-1
Thanks Steve, that are some very interesting links, showing good results
with Canon dslr.
Making my own telecine machine would be a very interesting project, but
I have several very interesting projects waiting for me to have time..
I am getting more and more facts on the table to
Thanks Bruce and Steve,
I will have to do a test if bars or flicker can be avoided by adjusting
the projector speed.
Of course this has to be in combination with the different frame rates
that the K1 offers (30 or 25 or 24)
If the projector has 16 frames per second and it can be adjusted
the quality of film transfer by
trying to shoot it with a dslr.
Paul via phone
On Nov 25, 2016, at 4:19 PM, Jos de Fotograaf <josdefotogr...@4prof.nl> wrote:
Thanks Mike, you are right if the mechanical shutter would be used for video,
but I would expect the that The K1 uses the electronic s
exposures on your shutter. An hour and a half's film would pretty much wear the
camera out.
On 24 November 2016 at 21:17 Jos de Fotograaf <josdefotogr...@4prof.nl> wrote:
Thank you for your response, Paul.
Could you plse indicate which properties (or lack of properties) make
the K1 ill
:
No, it's not a good idea. A DSLR is ill suited to the task of movie film
transfer. There are machines that transfer film quickly and efficiently, as
well as hundreds of companies that offer the service.
Paul via phone
On Nov 24, 2016, at 7:54 AM, Jos de Fotograaf <josdefotogr...@4prof.nl>
Dear group,
I have this box with 50year old 8mm family films.
I want to digitize them for distribution to my children.
Is it a good idea to use my K1 for this? Any experience?
Greetz, Jos
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