The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 307 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: 325iT Maintenance Re: 325iT Maintenance running an auto-x Re: running an auto-x Re: running an auto-x Re: DME stomp code 1281 solution Well, fixed it Grand Am cup/Rolex weekend (long) Re: 3.73 Diff Re: 3.73 Diff Re: Oil Pump (was Re: DME stomp code 1281 solution) Re: Oil Pump (was Re: DME stomp code 1281 solution) E36 airbag mounting screws Re: E36 airbag mounting screws FS: Used B&B Tri Flow exhaust for E36 DTM tips
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2004 22:54:40 -0400 From: Steve Lilley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: 325iT Maintenance Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Hi Tom, Here's the maintenance schedule I'd recommend for the E46: Change oil & filter every 5K Replace Engine Air Filter every year Check battery eye for correct color every year Flush brake fluid every 2 years Replace Cabin Air Filter every 2 years Replace Spark Plugs every 2 years Flush Differential Fluid every 2 years Flush Manual Transmission Fluid every 2 years Flush Coolant every 2 years Flush Power Steering Fluid every 2 years (using turkey baster) Replace Fuel Filter every 3 years or 50K miles Replace RSMs every 3 years or 50K miles Replace original battery after 5 years, and every 4 years after that Replace shocks and springs every 5 years or 75K (can I wait until then??) Replace thermostat, tensioner, water pump, radiator outlet temperature sensor, and thermostat housing every 5 years or 75K Replace engine drive belts (A/C Compressor Belt & Drive Belt) every 5 years or 75K Replace Rear Trailing Arm Bushings every 5 years or 75K Replace cooling system hoses every 6 years or 100K Replace Plastic Radiator, coolant hoses, and cooling system bleeder screw every 6 years or 100K Replace Oxygen sensors as required by check engine light (or lower fuel economy) Regards, Steve 2004 330i ZHP 2000 323i (sold) ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2004 23:22:23 -0400 From: "Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: 325iT Maintenance Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I guess I missed the original post, which might be relevant if the poster stated annual miles. > Replace Engine Air Filter every year Even if you do more than 30K miles a year, or live in a dusty environment? This item should be mileage oriented, not time. Adjusted for air conditions. Given a low dust environment, 15-20K miles will keep you very safe. 30K miles will get it as the fuel economy starts to drop away. > Replace Spark Plugs every 2 years Even if you only do 7500 miles a year? This item should be mileage related. 30K miles would be the low end of the interval. > Flush Differential Fluid every 2 years > Flush Manual Transmission Fluid every 2 years Both of these should be mileage related, with time a consideration. 30K miles maximum mileage. > Replace RSMs every 3 years or 50K miles How about just replacing them when they fail? Unless you ignore the distinct thumping in the rear, there will be no detrimental side effects of allowing these mounts to fail before replacing. > Replace original battery after 5 years, and every 4 years after that Don't replace the factory battery until it fails. There is no battery available on the US market that comes close to the quality of the original Varta batteries. I've seen factory fitted BMW batteries last 9 years or more, while the locally available replacements (even "genuine" BMW units) are good for less than 4 years on average. > Replace shocks and springs every 5 years or 75K (can I wait until then??) If you need brand new handling, change your shocks every 25K miles and springs every 50K miles. If you're a normal person, replace the shocks when they fail and the springs when they break, or begin to sag. > Replace thermostat, tensioner, water pump, radiator outlet temperature > sensor, and thermostat housing every 5 years or 75K > Replace engine drive belts (A/C Compressor Belt & Drive Belt) every 5 > years or 75K > Replace Rear Trailing Arm Bushings every 5 years or 75K Replace all of these items when they show signs of failing, except the water pump, which should be changed at or around 60K miles, only due to the catastrophic damage a pump failure can cause. > Replace Oxygen sensors as required by check engine light (or lower > fuel economy) Now I'm really confused. You have listed mileage or time limits for some truly silly items, yet one of the more important ones, you'll let the car tell you? A slow oxygen sensor will not set the check engine light, and very few people monitor their fuel economy. Change the pre cat oxygen sensors at or about 100K miles. Brett Anderson KMS --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.735 / Virus Database: 489 - Release Date: 8/6/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2004 19:29:33 -1000 From: Jay G <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: E36M3 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: running an auto-x Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> sorry for the cross post...this has also already been posted to the UUC Garage digest, so i apologize if you've seen it before...but i want as much input as possible :) hey fellow garagers...i'm one of the "chiefs" at our local auto-x, and we're gonna have a meeting this week and brainstorm a few ideas to make our auto-x a little more efficient...so, i want the opinions of my fellow garagers... we currently run 4 heats, and the classes are distributed so the heats are about the same size, e.g A,B,stock with D,E mod, etc...workers currently run one heat and work the next, i.e. run heat 1, work heat 2; run heat 2, work heat 1... unfortunately, our only racing venue at this time is on a race track...no open airfields or large parking lots is available...so, that kinda jumbles the logistics a bit...our courses usually run from one end of the couse to the other...see our track here: http://www.hawaiiracewaypark.com/layout.html the timing trailer is usually setup in the skid pad, and the beginning/end of our courses is at the sweeper (turn 7), and hairpin (turn 1)...we run the courses a different direction each month... we do have a wireless timing system which works good most of the time, but it does crap out every now and then, resulting in re-runs...also walking the course takes a little while...drivers times are announced over broadcast FM radio- a system we just got, and is pretty cool i have to say... anyway, we'd like to be able to do things more efficiently, especially with our growing number of autox'ers...we average over 100 every month, and the course is ~60-70 seconds long... some have suggested to make the courses shorter, but imho, that'd decrease the fun...or do we need to just get started earlier??? what do you folks do in the mainland to take care of a lot of entrants...any ideas greatly appreciated... ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 07:39:30 -0400 From: "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Jay G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: running an auto-x Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> do you run more than one car at a time? the bigger autocrosses I've been to either run two courses simultaneously or start cars at X second intervals (so there are multiple cars on the track at any one time) and I don't think I've ever been to an autocross where the timing doesn't crap out once in a while :) chris pawlowicz ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jay G" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Monday, August 09, 2004 1:29 AM Subject: [UUC] running an auto-x > > hey fellow garagers...i'm one of the "chiefs" at our local auto-x, and we're > gonna have a meeting this week and brainstorm a few ideas to make our auto-x > a little more efficient...so, i want the opinions of my fellow garagers... > ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 09 Aug 2004 02:07:18 -1000 From: Jay G <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: running an auto-x Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> yes we do chris...cars are spaced about 20-30 seconds apart depending on how long the course is...we usually *aim* for one car finishing, one car in the middle of the track and one car just leaving the grid all at the same time... and timing problems suck... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Pawlowicz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > do you run more than one car at a time? > and I don't think I've ever been to an autocross where the timing doesn't > crap out once in a while :) ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2004 21:02:31 -0700 From: Tom Reynolds <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: DME stomp code 1281 solution Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'd suggest an oil analysis be done on the oil, that way you'd get to see if there are any metallic contaminants, percentage, composition, etc. Try Larry Turner at http://www.youroil.net Best regards, Tom Reynolds Hereford, AZ At 07:16 PM 08/08/2004 -0700, Jim Bassett wrote: > >At 02:07 PM 8/8/04, Jamie Howton talked about: >>Now to tear into my 330i, I lost the oilpump in the middle of the carosel >>at Blackhawk Farms Raceway last weekend. So far everyone I have spoken to >>immediately says oilpump nut, right after I tell them I span off the track >>the session before. Anyone ever have this happen to them? > >Been there, done that, on my E36 325is. I also know of at least one other >instances of it happening on an E46 330i. > >>What usually gets damaged engine wise? > >If you're lucky, nothing really. If you are unlucky (like I was - I >couldn't see the low oil warning light), spun bearing, burned pistons. Not >pleasant. > >>The car ran for maybe a total of a minute after the red light came on with >>a mixture of Mobil 1 5W30 and Redline 20W50. > >Hmm, may be OK. But you'll have a better idea once you drop the oil pan and >have a look. Have a close look at the oil when you drain it, as well as in >the oil pan. *Any* indication of metallic material and you should change >the bearings as a minimum. > >Hope that helps, > >Jim Bassett >1998 M3/4 - oil pump nut secured (preventative) >1993 325is #44 JP/A5 - oil pump nut secured, but cost me a bottom end >rebuild :-( >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > > >--- >Incoming mail is certified Virus Free. >Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). >Version: 6.0.728 / Virus Database: 483 - Release Date: 07/27/2004 > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.728 / Virus Database: 483 - Release Date: 07/27/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 09:09:23 -0400 From: "Robinson, Lee" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'M3SIG'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "'UUCDigest'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Well, fixed it Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> So, I nearly tore the car entirely apart on Friday. Removed the plug & coil wires, dis-assembled the distributor, checked the coil. Checked the O2 sender, checked the temperature sender for the ECU. Nothing, not a damn thing was wrong. Finally, I decided to open up the alternator & see what it looked like inside to see if anything glaring was wrong. First step for that is to remove the AFM, of which the first step is to unplug to connector to the ECU. Hmmm, seems like someone's already disconnected that.....I wonder who that could've been. I bet it was that a$$hole who replaced the voltage regulator. Wait.....D'oh! For those of you in N. GA who heard some bit of a firestorm of obscenities on Friday evening, I apologize...... I also realize that after such a bone-head move that all of you reserve the right to smack me in the head with a rolled up newspaper....... Thanks, Lee ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 07:18:34 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Grand Am cup/Rolex weekend (long) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gruppe, This weekend Jack Money and I went to Mid-Ohio to participate in the BMW club race which was one of the support races for the Grand Am Cup/Rolex series. Talk about doing a lot of walking, Jack needs to buy a golf cart or a 4 wheeler or something or I'm going to quit. This gig doesn't pay enough! :-) Seriously I had a blast, I was exhausted every night but loving it, some of the stuff was so kewl it is hard to describe but I'll try. We had two sessions each day, bad thing was BMW CR was up first so unfortunately these guys were the ones drying the track for everyone else. Friday's session was at 8:00am so Jack decided we're not going to make that one (we arrived at the hotel at 3:15am, typical for us). The second practice was in the afternoon so it gave us a chance to make an adjustment to the car (C-Mod E36 M3) but it bit us in the @ss, Jack did 3 laps with full on tire rub from hell, D'oh! We found our mistake, fixed it but there was no more track time left for Friday. Oh well time to go schmooze with the Pros. A co-worker of mine had shown me a picture of this racer lady Milka Duno on Thurs. and I noticed she was a Rolex series driver, hmmm... maybe I can get her autograph for him. Jack and I walked around and pretty quickly found her, followed her (now feeling like some weirdo stalker) and of course she was on her way to the ladies room. Wait, talk to her for about 2.5 seconds and very quickly I got the, "autograph session tomorrow OK? bye, bye", crap! I even broke out into Spanish to get her to talk some more and maybe give me a friggin' autograph on a Friday when nobody else is around but it wasn't going to happen. The autograph session was right in the middle of the BMW Club race but she didn't give me a chance to 'splain that. Oh well. Back to BMW CR. Jack qualified 2nd on Sat. morning and that's where he finished in the sprint race. Good race, lots of battles. David Daniel with the A-Mod E28 M5 from hell got around Jack at the start and stayed in front for a few laps but Jack eventually reeled him in and passed him before the carousel. The M5 lost a pwr steering belt a bit later which affected brake boost so he dropped back some more but finished 3rd overall. The race winner was Ray Mason with a very wide-bodied E36 M3, think PTG looking car w/o actually being a PTG car, he's got lots of motor, yikes! After the race they actually had champagne for these 3 guys which I assume they sprayed all over each other and the fans. Tommy Mauk and I were walking back and heard all 3 of them being interviewed over the PA system. They had an announcer for the BMW race which was fairly amusing, they started off with just factual stuff, cars in the race, model of BMW, etc. The one thing I wished they would've known is what the "P" stands for in the class letters, they kept saying "J Production" or "K production." This ain't SCCA brother. :-) They pronounced Jack's last name as Mooney, when they figured out it was Money the guy said, "Jack Money and he's got plenty of it!", Tommy got a kick out of that one. His wife Melissa won in D-Mod and she came from a ways back in the grid, I don't think she even saw the green flag on the start. I had a radio and called the start for Simon Hunter as he usually has a close battle with John Paton. John got by on the start but had a small incident later in the race and Simon took the lead and finished first in J-stock. We watched the Rolex series race in the afternoon from the Buckeye chapter corral/hospitality area which was great. A view of madness from up high was excellent. I timed Milka and she was turning 1:25-1:26s laps which was kind of slow by comparison to the race leading Ganassi car (1:22s). The PTG cars (Auberlen/Marks) and (Said/?) were lapping at about 1:27-1:28. They sounded very cool, w/o even having to look up I could tell when they approached turn 7 from the two very quick blips of the throttle, somehow the sound of the blips would cut right thru even the noise the Rolex prototypes would make. Milka/Andy Wallace finished 2nd overall which was kind of amazing given their pace at the start of the race. Later at the impound garage I asked one of the Ganassi crew guys what Wallace was running and he was in the 1:20s! The Ganassi cars could barely get into the 1:21s with the fastest driver behind the wheel. Another reason was there were probably 10-12 full course yellows during the 3 hr race, probably more I lost track. Typical Nascar stuff since I believe that's who backs the Grand Am series. Other cool things from the weekend: The portable dyno, not the small bolt it to the wheel variety, this was the rolling drum variety, about 6ft off the ground, kind of hard to describe. I called Ben Keyes on the phone so he could listen to the Acura NSX being dynoed and I was about 50 ft away. Up close it was painful because the exhaust was so loud. Later I grabbed some pics while a Porsche cup car was on the dyno. Driver change practice, these guys can get in and out seriously fast, I like how they just leap into the car, saw the Turner Motorsport guys doing the same on Sunday. Pit crew wheel change practice, there was a Porsche on rain tires which confused me until I realized there were having one guy practice putting them on and taking them off. Larry Wright in the Cup race sharing an E46 M3 with John Munson. We've known Larry for a while now so it was cool to see him in a pro race. He had the 2nd fastest lap in practice going into the race but due to problems with the car (no ABS for a while) they didn't qualify very well. Fixed that but then a cam position sensor problem caused more grief during the race. There was other stuff but I forget and this post is long enough. Carlos '88 325iS '93 325iS __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - 100MB free storage! http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 07:32:40 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: 3.73 Diff Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> yes and no. I actually went stiffer on springs, but softer on swaybar. Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of ben keyes Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2004 6:52 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] 3.73 Diff Brett Anderson wrote: >I know where you're going, but the Quaife is a fabulous >track diff, *IF* you know how to set up your suspension. >Most racers don't have a clue. > > dumb guy talking here, but if the problem I've heard with the Quaife is due to it not working when a rear wheel is off the ground, I'd assume the proper set-up would be a softer rear than normal to keep it on the ground, correct ? Ben will have Brett rebuild the 3.46 someday... Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 07:38:09 -0700 From: "Marco Romani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: 3.73 Diff Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Well at this rate you're probably going to have to wait till 2005 to see the outcome. grrrr Marco -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mark Dadgar Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2004 1:36 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] 3.73 Diff On Aug 5, 2004, at 1:25 PM, Carlos Lopez wrote: >> Marco >> 95 M3 IP "soon" to be DM w 3.73 and quaife > > How the heck can an E36 M3 be a D-Mod car? Screwly rules if that's > right. Poor E30 guys. ;-) Screwy Marco. :) This is going to be either an amazing Club Racing coup or a disaster of epic proportions. I can't wait to see which! - Mark Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 09:40:02 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Oil Pump (was Re: DME stomp code 1281 solution) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Jamie, I'm pretty sure that, if you drop the oil pan, that you'll find that your oil pump is still in there somewhere. It would not be possible to actually "lose" the oil pump unless the pan somehow came off or got ripped open. Scott Miller Provider of technically accurate but totally useless information GGC BMW CCA Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2004 16:07:47 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: DME stomp code 1281 solution Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> <snip> >Now to tear into my 330i, I lost the oilpump in the middle of the >carosel at Blackhawk Farms Raceway last weekend. <snip> >Regards > >Jamie Howton ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 14:10:50 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Oil Pump (was Re: DME stomp code 1281 solution) Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks Scott, what should I be looking for? Will it say �lpumpe on it, or will any unused pump that I find in there do just fine? ;-) Regards Jamie Howton (Kidding) ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 14:49:21 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: E36 airbag mounting screws Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Can anyone confirm for me the size of the torx screws that screw into the back side of the steering wheel that hold on the airbag? I think it's a T27, but the first time I ever took them off I used a T25 (I think). I somewhat stripped one of them and I really need to get them out so I can replace the instrument cluster. In the event that I'm completely screwed, anyone have any good ideas how to get a stripped airbag screw out? :-/ Thanks, Brian 93 325 __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail Address AutoComplete - You start. We finish. http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 09 Aug 2004 18:22:06 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 airbag mounting screws Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 02:49 PM 8/9/04, Brian Ruiz talked about: >Can anyone confirm for me the size of the torx screws >that screw into the back side of the steering wheel >that hold on the airbag? I think it's a T27, but the >first time I ever took them off I used a T25 (I >think). I did the same thing - the correct size is T27. >I somewhat stripped one of them and I really >need to get them out so I can replace the instrument >cluster. Why? You can remove the instrument cluster with the steering wheel in place (BTDT on the M3). Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 13:51:36 -0700 (PDT) From: Paul T <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: uuc digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: FS: Used B&B Tri Flow exhaust for E36 DTM tips Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Used B&B Tri Flow exhaust for E36 with 3" DTM tips P/N from www.bbtriflo.com: FBMW-0240 325 w/ Twin 3" DTM Tips 92-98 about 2 years old, new is $850+ asking $500+shipping from (97068) Right side tip has minor cosmetic damaged, but professionally repaired pictures available, email me at: [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you're interested. local pickup welcome. I'm in Portland Oregon. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - 100MB free storage! http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
