The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 347 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: [bmwuucdigest] Re: Garage Wish list? Re: heated floors Re: RG6 and Cat5 in garage? Re: RG6 and Cat5 in garage? Re: <E30> Fuel Injection connector Re: <E30> Fuel Injection connector Re: <E30> Fuel Injection connector Re: Auto Body in MA area Re: BMW P Codes Cleaning out the garage and house sale...... Re: [bmwuucdigest] Garage Wish list? Re: RG6 and Cat5 in garage? Re: RG6 and Cat5 in garage? Re: RG6 and Cat5 in garage? Re: RG6 and Cat5 in garage?
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 20:47:37 -0500 From: "Dave Swingle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] Re: Garage Wish list? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I went the heated floor route.(If you saw the Monster Garage GT-40/Bronco almost-Rack-Crawler episode, that was me). I used a dedicated 40 gallon water heater for the heat source. This is not nearly as efficient as a heating boiler, but it's much cheaper to buy and I found that it was difficult to find a boiler small enough for this application. It's actually more efficient than a water heater used to heat domestic water, since you are heating the same water over and over again, and only raising it about 30 degrees instead of 120 or so. I'm in Northern Illinois, and find that it's only necessary to heat the air to about 60 degrees (slab is at about 68-70) in the dead of winter. Perfect working temperature, and because the floor is warmer than the air it's extremely comfortable. I'd gone many years using space heaters, and hated the fact that although you can heat the air up pretty quickly the floor is like standing on a giant ice cube for several days. When I'm not going to be out there for more than a few days I'll set the temp down to about 60 at the slab. I find that the heater can raise the room temperature about 1 degree per hour or so, depending on the outside temperature. So for weekend work, just turn it up Friday night when you get home and it will be pretty good by Saturday morning. I use a slab sensor thermostat in line with an air thermostat as a high-end limit. This comes into play when the outdoor temperature rises and the differential between slab and air temp starts going up. In my experience (last winter) this added about $50-60 a month to the gas bill. This garage is VERY well insulated, including the slab and foundation, has minimal windows, and the overhead door leads into the front garage that you can see from the street so there is very little wind leakage. Gary's right, you can't really turn it all the way off in the winter because the water will freeze (duh) unless you put antifreeze in the system which starts a whole 'nother set of problems. One more thing - if you go this route be sure to leave space WITHOUT tubing in it where the lift columns will go! Other stuff that you should consider - piped in compressed air (put the compressor outside or in the basement so you don't have to hear it). Sink, TV Cable wiring, FM radio wiring, mini-fridge, etc. I brought in CAT5 but never used it - from the time I started to the time I finished the project, 802.11 wireless got real cheap. Dave Swingle > > Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 14:18:44 -0700 (PDT) > From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: RG6 and Cat5 in garage? > Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > I chose not to put tubing in my garage floor. A > garage slab is a huge heat accumulator so heating it > is basically a full time deal. I tend to go out there > a few hours at a time and don't need continuous heat. > Gas is getting expensive and I didn't want to tie > myself into such an expensive prospect. I know that I > would never use it if it took 3 days to warm up. I > did find a huge gas heater to hang from the ceiling. > It has 220,000 BTU/hr and will heat the place in > minutes. > > Gary Derian > > > Why the disclaimer of "no heated floors"? Are you > > in > > a warm climate? If you're pouring a new floor, the > > cost of adding radiant heating to it is basically > > just > > the tubing and some valves, etc., assuming your > > water > > heater can handle it. > ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 21:59:39 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: heated floors Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Don't use standard PEX. Use a product called Kitec. It's made in Canada, is BMW friendly, as it's all in Metric, although they have standard adapters to fit it to the heater, etc. It's two layers of PEX (which is a plastic composition, not a brand of pipe) and a layer of aluminum in between. Guaranteed for 30 years in walls, so with added support of concrete, it's gonna last longer. Guaranteed against splitting after 5 freeze cycles (Standard "pex" tubing is only good for 2, on average). Also much easier to lay, as it stays where you put it, although it still needs to be tied down to the rebar before pouring. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > Why the disclaimer of "no heated floors"? Are you in > a warm climate? If you're pouring a new floor, the > cost of adding radiant heating to it is basically just > the tubing and some valves, etc., assuming your water > heater can handle it. > > Even if funds are tight, which I expect will be the > case when I build my home, I plan to run the PEX > tubing for radiant garage heat, even if I don't > actually plumb in the connections right away. Think > infrastructure - things that will be tough to add > later. If you decide you want heat in 2 years, you're > out of luck. > > Neil > --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.745 / Virus Database: 497 - Release Date: 08/27/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 19:01:19 -0700 (PDT) From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: RG6 and Cat5 in garage? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> With nice tall ceilings! Gary Derian --- KMS - Brett Anderson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: it will probably end > up as a mother-in-law suite now, so it was a smart > choice.... > > Brett Anderson > KMS ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 05:19:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Neil Deshpande <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: RG6 and Cat5 in garage? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Gruppe: With a TiVo that has been hacked you can stream recorded shows to any laptop on a dot-B wireless LAN. Not only does this give you TV in the garage, it could give you TV on a laptop wherever in the house you were DIY'ing. I hardly watch TV (total hours this year below 20), but ever since I had my TiVo hacked, I've been running a lot of shows I like to skim (iDesign, etc.) in the background on the PC while I get work done at my desk. The stream is smooth with dot-B, but I'm upgrading to dot-G so that my room-mates can stream at the same time w/o bandwidth constraints. Neil Deshpande *** John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Dunno that I'd want to watch TV in the garage. I figure I can use my 802.11 network for data svcs. You might not want to watch TV, but having a sat receiver in the garage just for the music channels is great. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 22:34:37 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E30> Fuel Injection connector Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Don't use dielectric grease in this connector. Dielectric grease is a conductor, it will short the pins. You want to use a regular grease, the pressure of the pin connectors will scrape away enough grease to make good contact, as you tighten the connector halves together. The remaining grease will prevent corrosion. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > On the E30 connector (C191 from the web , but no listing in Bentley???) > under the intake.... how do you remove the upper portion of the connector? > > By unscrewing the lower half I could look into the female side of the > contacts. A slight amount of tarnish. But I couldn't get off the male side. > No C clip was evident. > > There was also no dielectric grease. --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.745 / Virus Database: 497 - Release Date: 08/27/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 23:15:54 -0400 (EDT) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (bmw list) Subject: Re: <E30> Fuel Injection connector Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >From KMS - Brett Anderson > >Don't use dielectric grease in this connector. > >Dielectric grease is a conductor, it will short the pins. You want to use a >regular grease, the pressure of the pin connectors will scrape away enough >grease to make good contact, as you tighten the connector halves together. The >remaining grease will prevent corrosion. > > >Brett Anderson >KMS > Um, I think you got this one backwards. Dielectric grease does not conduct electricity, while regular grease might (depending on the additive mix). For those who say, "whoah there, if dielectric grease is non conductive, why do we use it in electrical connections?" the answer is that it keeps the air off the parts of the connector that are not in contact and doesn't create interesting alternate paths for the electrons. While regular grease may do the same for a while, it often does strange stuff later. Someone used plain old grease on the door pilar connector in my E30 and it corroded the pins under the grease. Major PITA to clean off and clean up. Dielectric grease is for electrical connections while regular grease is for bearings. -- Joe -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 05:43:02 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], bmw list <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: <E30> Fuel Injection connector Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Um, I think you got this one backwards. Dielectric grease does not > conduct > electricity, while regular grease might (depending on the additive > mix). The Derian like answer would be, a dielectric material is an insulator not a conductor. Carlos. :-) __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 22:38:57 -0400 From: "m3 drvr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Auto Body in MA area Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Thanks for you response. I will give them a call. Right now it is between Sansossio and Dick's autobody in Somerville. Regards, Clyde 98 M3/4 >From: "Michael Gilbert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: Re: [UUC] Auto Body in MA area >Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 09:35:02 -0400 > >Hi Clyde, > >I have used Sansossio (I live in Natick) and I can attest to their skill >and >also their integrity. They put my E36 M3 back together so it drives like >new. I am now friends with both big and little Phil and the guy Dave there >is a magician. They work on E36's all day long so they have tons of >experience with your car, and they are active sponsors and supporters of >the >BMW CCA, including hosting various events. I HIGHLY recommend them. > >-Mike Gilbert >97 M3 >01 330xi > >-----Original Message----- >From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of m3 drvr >Sent: Monday, August 30, 2004 12:12 PM >To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >Subject: [UUC] Auto Body in MA area > > >If you are not located in the Mass area then you can discard this email. > >I am looking to get some small body work done to my M3 (E36) and I was >think >of using Sansossio Auto Body Inc in Natick, MA. I don't know any >personally >who has used them so I thought I would ask the list. Is there someone out >there that has used them will good (or bad) results. Please let me know >asap. > >Thanks in Adavance. > >Clyde > >_________________________________________________________________ >Check out Election 2004 for up-to-date election news, plus voter tools and >more! http://special.msn.com/msn/election2004.armx > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > >Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > >__________________________________________________________________________ >In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > >UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate >Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! >908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com _________________________________________________________________ FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar � get it now! http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 23:00:51 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: BMW P Codes Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> So something good came out of it then. If P7400 does not exist, then it doesn't exist. Remember, these people programmed your control unit. The code is false, the code reader that retrieved it is confused. Brett Anderson KMS > -----Original Message----- > Well, what I found out after paying my $25 for 24 hours access is that > P0171 means "System too lean (Bank 1)" and P7400 does not exist in their > database. It is otherwise a really nice system though, I was able to > download over 1GB of model specific training manuals in pdf format, > that'll give me something to read... > > Regards > > Jamie Howton --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.745 / Virus Database: 497 - Release Date: 08/27/2004 ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 23:19:19 -0400 From: Chris Turrisi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [EMAIL PROTECTED], E36 M3 List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Cleaning out the garage and house sale...... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> OK Gang: I cleaned out the garage and house and have the following items for sale..... I can provide more information and pictures to anyone that is interested.... All items will be shipped from 11706 and I will accept any reasonable offers....I need to clean this place out...... Anything that does not sell will be posted on Ebay in a week or so..... BMW PARTS: JT Designs rear shock mounts with spare sets of his and her bushings. Where installed in a 325 for approximately 1,000 miles. List price is $105.00. Asking price $50.00 + shipping. M3 stereo head unit. It was taken out of the car at 9,000 miles and I have all the security codes you need to make it work. BMW part number 90 88 1 600 303. List price $550.00. Asking price $300.00 + shipping. M3 stock amplifier. It was also taken out of the car at 9,000 miles. BMW part number . List price $ 350.00. Asking price $200.00 + shipping. M3 stock rear speakers. These were also taken out of the car at 9,000 miles and worked great. BMW part number . Asking price $150.00 + shipping. M3 factory wood shift knob with 5-speed logo in mint condition. Was removed from the car at 20k miles. BMW part number . Asking price $75.00. M3 factory wood e-brake handle in mint condition. Must remove the entire handle mechanism as the wood handle is permanently attached. BMW part number . List price $250.00. Asking price $150.00. Stock E36 US oil filter housing in great condition. Will fit any car without an oil cooler. BMW part number 11 42 1 740 001. List price $195.00 . Asking Price $75.00 + shipping BMW part number 11 42 1 738 639. List price $419.00 . Asking Price $100.00 + shipping Stock M3 muffler which was removed from the car at 14,000 miles. It is in perfect condition. BMW part number . List price $695.00. Asking price $200.00 + shipping. E36 output shafts. Used with 45K miles on them. Have two to sell. BMW part number 33 21 1 227 585. List price $368.00. Asking price $100.00 each + shipping. Stock E36 M3 3.2 air box. Removed from M3 with 18,000 miles on it. BMW part number . List price $200.00. Asking price $50.00 + shipping. BMW lighted shift knob with attached boot in mint condition. BMW part number . List price $150.00. Asking price $100.00. Bridgestone SO-2 245/40-R17 tires with half tread left. I have two tires to sell. Asking price $25.00 each + shipping. MISCELLANEOUS STUFF: Houston Instruments DMP-162 42" pen plotter with several new pens and original software. Plotter works and completes the test page fine. Moved up to an ink jet model. Asking price $100.00 and will not ship. Olympus digital camera model D-620L in near mint condition. There are no scratches on lens and some minor marks on the case. The camera is a 1.6 Megapixel with the ability to take up to 5 shots in a row without having to wait for it to save each picture. Package includes, leather case, (2) 16 MB cards, (4) 8 MB cards, battery recharger unit, AC power cord, download/computer connect cord. Asking price $250.00 + shipping. Selling camera to move up. K40 radar detector. It was professionally installed and removed from my M3. I have everything you need to install it. It has the front and rear detectors and fits perfectly in the M3. Bought new for $1,200.00. Asking price $175.00 + shipping Sorry for the WOB; but hopefully some of this will be useful to you guys/gals. Chris ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 22:25:35 -0500 From: "Dave Swingle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] Garage Wish list? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Another couple of thoughts - for workbenches I went to a "used restaurant equipment" place and bought two stainless-steel worktables. You also need some of the normal wooden space (to pound on things on) but the stainless surfaces are great for working on small items because they are highly reflective and clean up very well. Gives kind of a neat look to the garage too. For the lift - I bought a used Rotary commercial lift. I found that Rotary has phenominal customer service - they informed me, without my asking, that my lift was still under the original warranty (based on serial #). They mailed and faxed me all the instruction manuals for free, and gave me contact info for a local installer who did the work "on the weekend". They were very helpful with regard to the concrete spec, what to do if you don't have enough etc. I highly recommend epoxy-coating the floor. The Griots stuff is probably fine, but first go to a real paint store (NOT Home Depot) and price real two-part polyamide epoxy. Do not screw around with anything called Latex epoxy. It will never stand up to car tires. Follow the directions, let the floor age at least 4 months, acid etch etc. and you'll end up with a very sturdy surface that cleans up very nicely. No matter what the label says, put on two coats. Takes about 6 gallons to coat a large two-car garage. Slippery when wet though. I mounted a retractable drop-light on each side of the lift. Remember to put 110 and 220V outlets above where the lift will go so the wiring drops down from above. I also put in (thru the wall) the largest window-type air conditioner that I could find at Home Depot. Need a 220V outlet for that too. Dave Swingle ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave Swingle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2004 8:47 PM Subject: Re: [bmwuucdigest] Re: Garage Wish list? > I went the heated floor route ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 23:36:52 -0400 From: "marshall lytle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "'Marc Plante'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: RG6 and Cat5 in garage? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I am in the dc area also and I made the mistake of building a garage without a heated floor. It really sucks working under the car in the winter lying on a freezing cold slab. I have an 80k btu gas space heater, but down near the floor where you work on cars never gets warm because of the permanently cold concrete floor. Put heating in the floor, or at least lay the pipes! You will not regret it! Marshall -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Marc Plante Sent: Tuesday, August 31, 2004 4:43 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] RG6 and Cat5 in garage? Warm enough climate (Washington, DC) that I figured I could use space heating for those bitter cold times that I *need* to be working on the car. I don't anticipate spending long winter days renovating cars, though I should anticipate a future owner with that interest. Thanks for the nudge. I'll at least research it. Marc ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 08:17:29 -0400 From: Vic Maslanka <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: RG6 and Cat5 in garage? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If you get a lift, you rarely need to lay on the floor. Given a choice between a lift and a heated floor, I'll take the lift. Vic Maslanka ---marshall wrote:--- I am in the dc area also and I made the mistake of building a garage without a heated floor. It really sucks working under the car in the winter lying on a freezing cold slab. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 06:31:33 -0700 (PDT) From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: RG6 and Cat5 in garage? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> In my old garage, I only had a kerosene heater, the cylindrical type with no blower. The heat went straight up and nicely warmed the ceiling. The floor was freezing. A box fan strategically placed to blow the warm air down did a nice job. A ceiling fan would be much better but some type of fan to keep the air mixed is necessary if you don't have a heated floor. Gary Derian --- marshall lytle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I am in the dc area also and I made the mistake of > building a garage without > a heated floor. It really sucks working under the > car in the winter lying > on a freezing cold slab. I have an 80k btu gas > space heater, but down near > the floor where you work on cars never gets warm > because of the permanently > cold concrete floor. > > Put heating in the floor, or at least lay the pipes! > You will not regret > it! > > Marshall ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 05:57:29 -0700 (PDT) From: Jonathan Brush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: RG6 and Cat5 in garage? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> So, Brett, your mother in law works on cars, and doesn't mind concrete floors? Cool. :^) Jon Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 21:43:03 -0400 From: "KMS - Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I ran both into my garage.... Of course, as it's 1200sqft, it will probably end up as a mother-in-law suite now, so it was a smart choice.... Brett Anderson KMS _______________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Win 1 of 4,000 free domain names from Yahoo! Enter now. http://promotions.yahoo.com/goldrush ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
