The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 348 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Re: E30 Steering Rack Replacement Re: Garage Wish list? Re: Garage Wish list? Re: Garage Wish list? Re: Garage Wish list? :Re: RG6 and Cat5 in garage? Re: Car Transport Re: E36 Cooling/Heat and Window Issues Re: E36 Cooling/Heat and Window Issues Re: E36 Cooling/Heat and Window Issues Re: E36 Cooling/Heat and Window Issues Re: E36 Cooling/Heat and Window Issues Re: RG6 and Cat5 in garage? Re: Auto Body Shop in Mass (UUC) Garage Wish List
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2004 10:17:59 -0400 From: ben keyes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E30 Steering Rack Replacement Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Ed MacVaugh wrote: > If you don't want to bend the subframe tabs down to > clear the rack, you do need to loosen engine mounts > and lift the engine on a block of wood under the oil > pan to get enough clearance to remove the rack huh. both of my subframes must have been pre-bent or something, since the E36 rack came out of the subframe from Zionsville & slide into the subframe from Raven without any bending of anything. of course the motors were out of the cars at the time, so that might have something to do with it :-P I assume the rack fouls on the oil pan on the back side where the part which the intermediate shaft connects to sticks up ? > I think "later" means for Europe where early cars > had manual racks which didn't require the engine lift > to clear. makes sense. or is it part of the P/S system which gets in the way ? Ben needs to remember his cars are not quite normal.... ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 08:22:00 -0500 From: "Scott Staewen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Garage Wish list? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Definitely true where a lot a salt is used. I had a Volvo stored in a heating garage in Minnesota that was reduced to a rust heap in short order. But I think the solution is to *add a complete wash bay* to the garage rather than keep it frozen. rss >cars last a lot longer (rust-wise) if you keep them frozen all winter.. it >sure is nice to get into a warm car on those really cold mornings, but the >freeze/thaw they go through every night accelerates the rusting process a >huge amount > >it can also mask a dying battery.. starts right up in the warm garage.. is >completely dead after sitting frozen all day in the parking lot at work.. >much more convenient to be stuck at home! > >plus, babying a car just teaches it to be soft :) > > >chris pawlowicz '89 325i '99 z3 2.8 > _________________________________________________________________ On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 09:22:59 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Garage Wish list? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 8/31/04 4:26 PM, "Marc Plante" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I have a good problem. I'm in the middle of updating the house, and part of > the project is a three car garage. Also, because of the topology, the ceiling > is going to be about 17 feet up, which allows for the potential of a loft in > the future, though the budget won't allow for it right now. If you plan to put in a loft later, make sure the builder uses storage trusses for the roof support. These provide walk-under clearance - almost. My garage loft has the usual spring-loaded pull-down death stairs, but also a 4x6' hatch with a block and tackle above. I use this to lift up large out of season items such as the snow blower, patio furniture etc. Epoxy floor paint. Wish I had done this, may yet. Plenty of 120/240V power in a dedicated distribution panel with enough slots for lots of individual circuits. Many wall outlets. Lots of light; 8ft dual fluorescent fixtures are inexpensive and work well. Pick fixtures that are rated to start at low temperatures. My garage is fully lined with 1/4" pegboard. It's attached with screws so that I can get back into the wall cavity to add wiring or whatever when necessary. (However an attached garage will probably need drywall for fire code reasons.) Readymade Formica type kitchen counters from your local home store make inexpensive work surfaces. Since you garage is attached, consider choosing low-noise belt-drive GDOs. on 8/31/04 4:26 PM, Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I chose not to put tubing in my garage floor. A > garage slab is a huge heat accumulator so heating it > is basically a full time deal. I'm with Gary. Unless you plan to live or work full time in the garage (or have an unlimited budget) this doesn't make economic sense either in terms of initial or running costs. Heat it and cool the garage only when you need to. Interestingly my detached 22x24' fully insulated garage never gets below freezing even during our coldest northern Indiana nights, so your attached garage in a milder climate certainly won't. For space heating I have a built-in 4 kw 240V electric fan heater which gets the temperature up to a comfortable working level quite quickly, and only ran about $150 at Lowe's. Cost of operation is immaterial because hours of use are limited. For cooling I have a 12,500 Btu/hr RAC that I bought at a Sears scratch and dent sale. It's proven to be barely adequate; 15,000 or even 18,000 would have been better to pull the temperature down more quickly. A hot car on a hot summer day holds a lot of stored heat. on 9/1/04 8:31 AM, "marshall lytle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > It really sucks working under the car in the winter lying > on a freezing cold slab. Hey, why lie on the floor? $20 buys you a mechanic's rolling creeper! But yes, the concrete slab holds a lot of cold, so to speak. But how much are you prepared to spend to counter that? Neil 96 M3 ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 09:32:52 -0700 From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Garage Wish list? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Wed, Sep 01, 2004 at 09:22:59AM -0500, Neil Maller wrote: > Lots of light; 8ft dual fluorescent fixtures are inexpensive and work > well. Pick fixtures that are rated to start at low temperatures. I've done a little research into garage lighting. Seems like your best bet is several fluorescent t8 fixtures with good electronic ballasts. More cost-effective and efficient than more exotic lamps, at least in low-bay garages. > My garage is fully lined with 1/4" pegboard. It's attached with screws > so that I can get back into the wall cavity to add wiring or whatever > when necessary. (However an attached garage will probably need drywall > for fire code reasons.) When my attached garage was inspected (in CA), taped drywall was only required on the wall facing the living space. It's good to have the walls coated with something light colored just to make the area brighter though. > Readymade Formica type kitchen counters from your local home store > make inexpensive work surfaces. I concur. I got a nice 12' section for my workbench. Tough & cleans up easily. You can scratch it by sliding a dirty old transmission around on it, but if you choose the right pattern, scratches aren't very noticeable. -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 11:01:59 -0700 (PDT) From: Gary Derian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Garage Wish list? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 60 watt T12 lights (5500 lumens) are pretty efficient but the electronic ballasts on the T8 (59 watt, 5800 lumen) start much better at low temps. High output T12s come up to 210 watts. Those are less efficient but put out 14,000 lumens each tube. That is equal to 11 100 wall bulbs. 100 lumens per square foot is a good bright light level. Gary Derian --- John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I've done a little research into garage lighting. > Seems like your best > bet is several fluorescent t8 fixtures with good > electronic ballasts. > More cost-effective and efficient than more exotic > lamps, at least in > low-bay garages. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2004 09:45:10 -0500 From: "Scott Staewen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: :Re: RG6 and Cat5 in garage? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Dropping in cat5 before drywall is installed is very cheap and easy, and you may find that you need it later. Even if you test it out beforehand, after the garage is built and all your equipment is installed, you might find that your bandwidth suffers, or maybe you'll have no connection at all. It mght be handy to have the option of putting a wireless access point *in* the garage. rss > > > > Dunno that I'd want to watch TV in the garage. I figure I can use my > > 802.11 network for data svcs. > _________________________________________________________________ Don�t just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search! http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/ ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 12:05:56 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Car Transport Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> http://www.dasautoshippers.com/ -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Neil N. Sent: Monday, August 30, 2004 7:48 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] Car Transport I used Dependable Auto Shippers. Good service, phone tracking, no car damage (enclosed) cross-country. $1,400 from Pleasanton, CA to Burlington, MA. I think it's www.das.com HTH, Neil --- Steve Albrecht <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I know this subject has been discussed previously, > but not having the > need at the time, I didn't take notes. I am looking > for a car transport > recommendation. The car will be transported from the > San Jose area to > Vancouver Washington. I appreciate any help on > this. A contact phone > number would also be appreciated. > > Cheers > Steve Albrecht > Cupertino, CA > Search the > ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, > founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and > home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages! http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 12:12:35 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 Cooling/Heat and Window Issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> In the E36's there is an adjustment knob directly underneath the main vent in the center of the dash board that controls the mix of air. If it's set to cold, the heater may be working, but the hot air would not be coming out of the vents. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, August 30, 2004 11:50 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] E36 Cooling/Heat and Window Issues Thanks to everyone for all the window advice. Haven't seen anything on the heater issue yet. Anyone? Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 15:39:30 -0700 >From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: E36 Cooling/Heat and Window Issues >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >A friend is shopping for an E36. <snip> >2. We've had hot weather lately, and the AC was very cold. So >eventually I asked my friend if he had tried the heater yet, and he >hadn't. So while still sitting with the engine idling, we switched >off the AC and turned up the heat. The knob that controls the vents >works fine, but the air never got hot. I suggested leaving the heater >on while we drove away, just to see if it had an effect. Sure enough, >as soon as we started driving, we got heat. But none at idle. > >Remembering the water pumps with the plastic impellers, I suggested >that the car needs a water pump. But the dash temp gauge stays right >in the middle of the range, at least while I was looking at it. So >maybe the heat control valve? But why would this not work at idle? >Anyone? Buehler? > >TIA for any feedback on these matters. > >Scott Miller >GGC BMW CCA Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 11:27:27 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 Cooling/Heat and Window Issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Roan, we didn't see that knob, only the right and left temp knobs. But the issue was, we got heat when the engine was revved, but not at idle. I doubt that the knob you m ention would affect that, unless it sets the RPM level at which the heat comes out? I don't think even BMW would design it that way. Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA [EMAIL PROTECTED] com To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED] cc: 09/01/2004 10:12 Subject: RE: [UUC] E36 Cooling/Heat and Window Issues AM In the E36's there is an adjustment knob directly underneath the main vent in the center of the dash board that controls the mix of air. If it's set to cold, the heater may be working, but the hot air would not be coming out of the vents. -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Monday, August 30, 2004 11:50 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [UUC] E36 Cooling/Heat and Window Issues Thanks to everyone for all the window advice. Haven't seen anything on the heater issue yet. Anyone? Scott Miller GGC BMW CCA >Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 15:39:30 -0700 >From: "Scott & Charlotte Miller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: "UUC Digest" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Subject: E36 Cooling/Heat and Window Issues >Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >A friend is shopping for an E36. <snip> >2. We've had hot weather lately, and the AC was very cold. So >eventually I asked my friend if he had tried the heater yet, and he >hadn't. So while still sitting with the engine idling, we switched >off the AC and turned up the heat. The knob that controls the vents >works fine, but the air never got hot. I suggested leaving the heater >on while we drove away, just to see if it had an effect. Sure enough, >as soon as we started driving, we got heat. But none at idle. > >Remembering the water pumps with the plastic impellers, I suggested >that the car needs a water pump. But the dash temp gauge stays right >in the middle of the range, at least while I was looking at it. So >maybe the heat control valve? But why would this not work at idle? >Anyone? Buehler? > >TIA for any feedback on these matters. > >Scott Miller >GGC BMW CCA Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[EMAIL PROTECTED] __________________________________________________________________________ In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 13:16:05 -0700 From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 Cooling/Heat and Window Issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >works fine, but the air never got hot. I suggested leaving the heater > >on while we drove away, just to see if it had an effect. Sure enough, > >as soon as we started driving, we got heat. But none at idle. Did anyone check the coolant level? -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 14:05:51 -0700 (PDT) From: wy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 Cooling/Heat and Window Issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Roan, we didn't see that knob, only the right and > left temp knobs. But the > issue was, we got heat when the engine was revved, > but not at idle. I > doubt that the knob you m ention would affect that, > unless it sets the RPM > level at which the heat comes out? I don't think > even BMW would design it > that way. Scott, BMW did actually did that. The left and right temp knobs are just for temperature control. If you want heat or cold air, you will need adjust the thumbwheel. It is mark with blue and red dots. This feature is not found in the e30. Will _______________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Win 1 of 4,000 free domain names from Yahoo! Enter now. http://promotions.yahoo.com/goldrush ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 14:53:58 -0700 (PDT) From: Tammer Farid <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: E36 Cooling/Heat and Window Issues Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Will, I think you misunderstood Scott's question. I recall that in my E36, I could get hot air out of the vents at idle. Scott, I'm sorry but I don't have an answer to your question. The thumb wheel only controls the dash vents, so that you can have cool air on your face with warm air on your feet/legs. You'll get heat from the footwell vents regardless of where the thumbwheel is set. And it *should* occur regardless of engine speed. tammer --- wy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Roan, we didn't see that knob, only the right and > > left temp knobs. But the > > issue was, we got heat when the engine was revved, > > but not at idle. I > > doubt that the knob you m ention would affect that, > > unless it sets the RPM > > level at which the heat comes out? I don't think > > even BMW would design it > > that way. > > Scott, BMW did actually did that. The left and right > temp knobs are just for temperature control. If you > want heat or cold air, you will need adjust the > thumbwheel. It is mark with blue and red dots. This > feature is not found in the e30. > > Will __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 13:14:08 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: RG6 and Cat5 in garage? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> If you're going to put a space heater in your ultimate garage don't scrimp and also buy a CO detector. Except maybe Brett. wink wink. -Kevin ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 14:01:45 -0700 (PDT) From: Jonathan Brush <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Auto Body Shop in Mass Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I used Dick's for my daughter's VW when it got keyed badly (don't ask). It was a very long wait for a slot, which was OK because the car drove and worked fine. And they kept the car for a long time. But that's because they did the job right: took off all the trim (no masking tape) and really cleaned up the car. It looked *perfect* when done and 3 years later there is no problem with their work. Too bad the veedub is such a piece of S**T. Jon Thanks for you response. I will give them a call. Right now it is between Sansossio and Dick's autobody in Somerville. Regards, Clyde 98 M3/4 __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? New and Improved Yahoo! Mail - Send 10MB messages! http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2004 20:11:57 -0700 From: Tom Kosmalski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: (UUC) Garage Wish List Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Haven't been following this one closely. From experience, I highly recommend electronic balast lights. Standard versions "buzz" which is annoying if you spend a lot of time in there, or like to listen to music. Apologies if this has already been covered. Tom Kosmalski, Owner of what my father terms the "Garage Mahal" ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
