The BMW UUC Digest 
Volume 2 : Issue 818 : "text" Format

Messages in this Issue:
  Re: E38 Key Remote battery replacement
  Re: e36/46 major parts replacement intervals?
  E39:  Service Engine Soon Indicator
  Re: E39: Service Engine Soon Indicator
  Re: E39:  Service Engine Soon Indicator
  Re: E36 Plastic Impeller Water Pump
  E36 Plastic Water Pump Impeller
  Re: mileage rollback possible?
  <e39> AC still soaking the floor
  Re: <e39> AC still soaking the floor
  Re: <e39> AC still soaking the floor
  [E36 M3]  NGK Sparkplugs - BKR6EQUP
  Re: [E36 M3]  NGK Sparkplugs - BKR6EQUP
  Re: E38 Key Remote battery replacement
  <E36> Occasional ASC light

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 01:38:41 -0400
From: "KMS- Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: E38 Key Remote battery replacement
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> I assume you are basing weakness on distance?  Sometimes, my key unlocks
> from about 50 ft away, sometimes only from about 10.  I believe
> the antenna
> for E38s is in the left side B pillar.

C pillar, but close enough.

FYI, there was a little known service action in 1996 to reduce the range of
the remote, per FCC regulations......



Brett Anderson
KMS - Koala Motorsport
www.bmwdiffs.com
440 564 7574
9988 Kinsman Rd
Novelty, OH 44072
(Near Cleveland)





------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 00:03:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Kazuto Okayasu" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: e36/46 major parts replacement intervals?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


My comments are E46 only, as were Andre's.

> 2. Window regulators fail, sometimes more than once.  When the dealer
> replaces it, make sure they put the vapor seal back correctly otherwise
> your car will be flooded the next time it rains.  This flooding is
> apparently not an uncommon problem.

There seems to be some evidence that this might be avoidable by checking
and tightening/loctite the 4 nuts in the corners that hold the regulator
assembly.

> 3. Engine thermostat fails.  There may have been recalls on this, but I
> forget.

The recall or TSB was on very early cars, though this has been known to
happen on later ones.

> 4. Sunroof rail guides break, so the sunroof remains closed.

If this starts out as just the shade not moving, I believe this is a $6
repair of a guide clip, until the whole cassette goes at some point.

> 5. The mousefur lining trim on the inside along the door tends to fall
> off.  Some 3M weatherstripping glue will fix it.

Only coupes have the offending part. The glue is 3M Super Weatherstrip
Adhesive.

> 6. There have been reports of rear sway bar mounts breaking, even on stock
> models, but this doesn't seem to be a common thing.

This is much more common on E39s, but looking at the way the the E46 ones
are designed and the way they're stressed, it's not surprising.

> 7. The rear shock mounts die.

Well, this goes back to the E30.  IMO even the strongest OE mounts (E46M3)
are junk.  My factory mount lasted a year; the M3 ones went 3x longer. I
now have aftermarkets.

> 8. The control arm bushings and other various suspension bushing parts
> seem to wear out very quickly.

I've seen rear diff mounts go out, including my own.  At least the front
ball joints seem to hold up better than on E36s.

> The engine and transmission so far seem quite solid.

Generally agreed, though there are known issues with the clutch, and cam
sensors have a tendency to die.  Engine mounts seem to go before 100k; the
PS reservoir will leave an indentation in the hoodliner.  Fuel level
senders, cooling fan recall, occasional electrical gremlins.

-- 
Kazuto Okayasu
Administrative Computing Services
University of California, Irvine


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 07:12:05 -0500
From: "Steve & Barb Conner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: E39:  Service Engine Soon Indicator
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I have been chasing a problem in a 99 540.  As the subject says, I have 
been getting the Service Engine Soon indicator on the dash.  Using one 
of the OBDII scan tools the code reads (and has always read) P0171, 
System Too Lean (Bank 1).  At this point I have changed both front O2 
sensors, one at a time, hoping to find the problem and fix it.  I had 
originally assumed bank 1 was the driver's side and changed the driver's 
side front sensor.  The code was quickly back.  I then changed the right 
front sensor and the light stayed out for the past week.  DOH!  It came 
on again last night and is setting the same code.  Any ideas?  The car 
has 85k miles.  Is this possibly an idication of another sort of 
problem, or should I just change the other two sensors and see if that 
fixes things?  TIA for any suggestions.

Steve Conner
Kokomo, IN 


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 08:46:57 -0500
From: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Steve & Barb Conner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: [email protected]
Subject: Re: E39: Service Engine Soon Indicator
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Just a WAG, but check the band clamps on the air intake, and inspect
all intake hoses for proper fit and cracking.  I had the same issue on
my 02 330i and it truned out to be an aftermarket cold air intake that
was leaking after the MAFS.

---
Jamie Howton
2000 M5
1995 M3
Hampshire, IL


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 11:10:03 -0400
From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Steve & Barb Conner" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
   <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: E39:  Service Engine Soon Indicator
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

A system too lean doesn't mean the sensors are bad, but rather something 
causing excess oxygen to be in the exhaust.  Most likely an air leak, or a 
semi-plugged injector, or something else <grin>.

Gary Derian


>I have been chasing a problem in a 99 540.  As the subject says, I have 
>been getting the Service Engine Soon indicator on the dash.  Using one of 
>the OBDII scan tools the code reads (and has always read) P0171, System Too 
>Lean (Bank 1).  At this point I have changed both front O2 sensors, one at 
>a time, hoping to find the problem and fix it.  I had originally assumed 
>bank 1 was the driver's side and changed the driver's side front sensor. 
>The code was quickly back.  I then changed the right front sensor and the 
>light stayed out for the past week.  DOH!  It came on again last night and 
>is setting the same code.  Any ideas?  The car has 85k miles.  Is this 
>possibly an idication of another sort of problem, or should I just change 
>the other two sensors and see if that fixes things?  TIA for any 
>suggestions.
>
> Steve Conner
> Kokomo, IN
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com 


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 08:44:08 -0500
From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: E36 Plastic Impeller Water Pump
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

on 9/28/05 12:20 AM, "C. Craig Eller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I am getting concerned about the dreaded plastic impeller water pump failure.
> Rumor has it that BMW went to a metal impeller version sometime in 1997.
> Question is: when did they do it?

In theory they changed over to metal impeller water pumps after 5/96
production, but there may be occasional exceptions. My car, BTW, was built
5/96 and had the original plastic pump, and yes, it failed out on the track
at under 50K miles (hi Carlos!).

Neil
Fort Wayne, IN
96 M3      - Bastard child
03 525iT   - Sterling Grey Metallic
77 MGB     - Original owner, need to sell
05 Mini    - Cooper S with LSD!



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 09:48:52 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
From: "C. Craig Eller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: E36 Plastic Water Pump Impeller
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Gentlemen,

Thanks for all the thougtful replies.  I believe that I am going to replace my 
water pump soon anyway regardless of plastic vs. metal constuction.  I also 
noticed a small bit of leaking around the thermostat housing last night which 
also appears to be plastic and have ordered a metal replacement from Turner 
Motorsports (who, BTW, also has the metal impeller water pumps in stock as 
well).

After doing some homework (which I should have done in the first place), I was 
able to locate an old post by Bret Anderson which answered the question 
concerning the switchover date from plastic to metal impellers which is:

6/96 is steel.  4/96 was the last month to use plastic.

Hope this helps others who were interested in this topic.  Thanks again to all.

Craig Eller
BMW CCA Everglades Chapter
97 ///M3 Sedan

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 09:48:56 -0400
From: Chris Turrisi <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: mileage rollback possible?
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>



Will you ship to a residential address?


Thanks,,

Chris

At 01:20 AM 9/28/2005 -0400, you wrote:
>No US BMW dealer can manipulate mileage via their diagnostic equipment.
>
>BMW NA has the ability to manipulate mileage, at least on E36, but of
>course, given the Federal legal implications, they're way above board.
>
>There are many European or Asian based software's available that can
>manipulate the mileage.  It's a Federal offence in the US to own such
>software.
>
>So, to answer the original question, it's possible to change the mileage,
>but the particular item that was being looked at was a scam from the onset,
>regardless of mileage, the car doesn't exist.
>
>For those who think that it does, or those who just placed their order, I
>have just taken possession of ownership title to the Brooklyn Bridge.
>$7600, delivered, within the contiguous US.  Insured delivery, via UPS, one
>brick at a time.  Guaranteed......
>
>
>
>Brett Anderson
>KMS - Koala Motorsport
>www.bmwdiffs.com
>440 564 7574
>9988 Kinsman Rd
>Novelty, OH 44072
>(Near Cleveland)
>
>
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > First off, let me state I am not looking to have the mileage on my car (or
> > anyone's car I know) rolled back.
> >
> > A non-BMW friend at work came across a likely scam on eBay today.  Typical
> > offshore stuff, but we started talking about the mileage of the
> > car ... 2004
> > MY 330i with about 15k.  Seems reasonable, but since the guy was asking
> > $7500 for the car, he wondered if the mileage had been rolled
> > back which led
> > us to the question -> is it possible to roll back the mileage of a late
> > model BMW?
> > Obviously, it would take a shady dealership or someone with access to the
> > GT1 system to reprogram the instrument cluster, but I wonder if it is even
> > possible to either roll back the cluster (ie, cluster reads
> > 14,884 miles and
> > does not allow any readings less than that during reprogram) or,
> > in the case
> > of cluster replacement, ECU logs mileage and does not allow the cluster to
> > read less than what is stored in the ECU memory.
> >
> > Like I said, I'm not looking to have it done; just wondering if
> > it was even
> > possible with all the electronic checks that may be possible with all the
> > different modules on board.
>
>
>
>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
>
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 07:19:44 -0700
From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: <e39> AC still soaking the floor
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

 I'm still stumped even after finding my Bentley manuals.  Not a single 
mention of AC drain tubes.  Good instructions on removing the entire AC 
system from the dash, but I certainly don't want to go that far if I can 
avoid it.
 I applied shop vac to the ends of the drain tubes under the car and
only got a few drops of condensate for my efforts.  Still no tube
blockage that I can locate from below.  After a half hour of AC use, I
am again rewarded by a lake of water sloshing out onto the rear carpet.
 If I plug the rear vent outlet, will the condensate eventually shoot 
out of the side mirror housings like some horrible mechanical tribute to 
Red Skelton?

-- 
 "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster."
   -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 09:39:09 -0500
From: Jamie Howton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: <e39> AC still soaking the floor
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

This may or may not be helpful but I used to own Porsche 928s, the
sunroof drain tubes on those cars would clog resulting in the water
dripping into the car.  I used to use weed-whacker plastic line to
clean out the tubes sort-of rotor-rooter fashion.

I don't know where to look inside the car for where the drain tubes
connect, but maybe you can shove some of this plastic weed-whacker
line up from below to clear the clog.  Don't know if it'll work but
it's an idea.

--
Jamie Howton
2000 M5
1995 M3
Hampshire, IL


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 07:45:33 -0700
From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: <e39> AC still soaking the floor
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

On Wed, Sep 28, 2005 at 09:39:09AM -0500, Jamie Howton wrote:

> I don't know where to look inside the car for where the drain tubes
> connect, but maybe you can shove some of this plastic weed-whacker
> line up from below to clear the clog.  Don't know if it'll work but
> it's an idea.

 Thanks, but the tubes seem clear right up to the point where they meet 
an L fitting.  The wire doesn't bend past that unfortunately.

-- 
 "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster."
   -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 09:58:29 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
From: "C. Craig Eller" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: [E36 M3]  NGK Sparkplugs - BKR6EQUP
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I am planning on replacing the plugs in my 1997 ///M3 and have done a little 
research on the options available.  The engine is stock except for some 
Sharking.   Looks like the consensus is the NGK BKR6EQUP multi-electrode is a 
good choice for general street use.  Apparently this type of plug has a preset 
gap from the factory that cannot be modified.  Has anyone had good or bad 
experience with these plugs?  Does anybody know a cheaper source than 
www.sparkplugs.com?  Thanks in advance.

Craig Eller
BMW CCA Everglades Chaplter
97 ///M3 Sedan

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 09:25:20 -0700
From: Kazuto Okayasu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: [email protected]
Subject: Re: [E36 M3]  NGK Sparkplugs - BKR6EQUP
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

At 06:58 AM 9/28/2005, C. Craig Eller wrote:

These are the factory plugs in M52TU and M54 engines.  They seem to 
be made primarily for long replacement cycles more than anything 
else, but I haven't heard a single complaint about them.  I changed 
mine at 50k miles, and frankly they looked like they had at least 
20-30k left on them when comparing them to the shiny new ones I put 
in.  I don't know what sparkplugs.com wants, but I think I paid 8 or 9 bucks.

>I am planning on replacing the plugs in my 1997 ///M3 and have done 
>a little research on the options available.  The engine is stock 
>except for some Sharking.   Looks like the consensus is the NGK 
>BKR6EQUP multi-electrode is a good choice for general street 
>use.  Apparently this type of plug has a preset gap from the factory 
>that cannot be modified.  Has anyone had good or bad experience with 
>these plugs?  Does anybody know a cheaper source than 
>www.sparkplugs.com?  Thanks in advance.
>
>Craig Eller
>BMW CCA Everglades Chaplter
>97 ///M3 Sedan
>Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
>
>
>__________________________________________________________________________
>In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
>UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
>Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
>908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com

Kazuto Okayasu  Manager, Desktop Support Services
Administrative Computing Services, University of California, Irvine
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 18:45:19 -0400
From: "Dean Boucouras" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[email protected]>
Subject: Re: E38 Key Remote battery replacement
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

I would like to thank Brett Anderson, Andy and everyone else who has helped 
me out with this.

Thanks again gentlemen,

Dean

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "KMS- Brett Anderson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "UUC Digest" <[email protected]>
Sent: Tuesday, September 27, 2005 11:44 PM
Subject: Re: [UUC] E38 Key Remote battery replacement


> 99 should have a replaceable battery.   Pry the small cover off the back 
> of
> the key, remove the two small Phillips screws and the back cover from the
> key.  Battery is part number 51 21 8 354 417.  It's a CR something or
> another, standard battery, but it's simpler for us to buy them from the
> dealer so I haven't taken notes on the generic number.  Basically an
> oversized watch battery.
>
> If you don't change it within 60 seconds, you will lose the remote
> synchronization and have to initialize both remote keys again according to
> the owners manual instructions.
>
> Brett Anderson
> KMS - Koala Motorsport
> www.bmwdiffs.com
> 440 564 7574
> 9988 Kinsman Rd
> Novelty, OH 44072
> (Near Cleveland)
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> The battery is becoming a bit weak in the key remote to my 1999
>> 740i Sport.
>> Upon initial examination, I did not find a quick way to take the key 
>> apart
>> to check and see what type of battery I need to purchase to
>> replace the weak
>> battery.
>>
>> What type of battery do I need to purchase?
>> Where can I buy one?
>> How do I replace the weak battery?
>
>
>
> Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]
>
>
> __________________________________________________________________________
> In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA.
>
> UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate
> Short Shifter - accept no substitutes!
> 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com 


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2005 18:14:40 -0700
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [email protected]
Subject: <E36> Occasional ASC light
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


Any idea what would cause the ASC light to come on intermittently? There
doesn't seem to be a pattern to factors which cause the light to come on.
It's a recent occurence.
A Peake scan doesn't show any codes set but I don't expect this to be
engine related.

-Thanks, Kevin
'99 E36 M3.



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