The BMW UUC Digest Volume 2 : Issue 779 : "text" Format Messages in this Issue: Gauges Re: Gauges Re: Gauges Re: Gauges Re: Gauges Re: Gauges Re: E46 323i control arm replacement? Re: E46 323i control arm replacement? <E36> Tranny , motor interaction <E36> engine pinging Re: <E36> engine pinging Re: <E36> engine pinging Two questions... Re: Two questions... Power steering E30 ETA
---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 12:42:05 -0700 (PDT) From: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Gauges Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have a few questions if you guys have a minute. So I got a VDO oil pressure and water temp. gauges and their respective sending units today. I flipped through the instructions and they seem pretty straight forward, but I was curious how you guys/gals have gone about wiring them in your E30's. I have got an 87 325e. The instructions say to wire the oil pressure swith before the fuse box. I understand this, but at what point or where exactly do people wire them on these cars? The temp sensor looks like it will fit where the bleeder valve goes on the thermostat. The oil sender unit just replaces the original. Am I correct? Also I would like to keep my temp guage on the dash console (the original gauge) so if it was wired to the thermostat I assume I could keep it since it isn't going to bypass the original one. But, on the oil pressure gauge I don't want the genie lamp to be on if I replace the old unit with the new one and the guage. Is there a way to keep this lamp as well? If I can't then would the new sending unit just be wired to where the original one was? I guess the main point here is how do people generally go about wiring these guages in their E30 six's? I know these are alot of questions, but I would appreciate it. Thank you, Ryan- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 18:32:21 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Ryan Simmons <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [email protected] Subject: Re: Gauges Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> --- Ryan Simmons <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I have a few questions if you guys have a minute. > >So I got a VDO oil pressure and water temp. gauges and their >respective sending units today. I flipped through the instructions >and they seem pretty straight forward, but I was curious how you >guys/gals have gone about wiring them in your E30's. I have a 325is so your e is probably different but since I installed mine in the ctr console/ash tray area I used the wires going to the cig. lighter for power and ground. Find out what the threads are on those VDO senders but my guess is they're NPT (maybe 1/8-27). If so you'll need adapters. I mounted the coolant temp one in place of the stock one (since my stock gauge is dead anyway) on top of the t-stat housing and the oil pressure one in place of the stock pressure warning sender. Again this required an adapter, I used a VDO one that I bought from BMP. The stock warning sender gives you a warning at something like 7psi at which case your engine is toast so I had no problems removing mine. The light does not stay on if the connector is unplugged. Carlos 98 M3 E30 325is ____________________________________________________ Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 20:03:47 -0700 (PDT) From: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Carlos Lopez" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Cc: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [email protected] Subject: Re: Gauges Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I think the "e" is the same as far as most electrics. Did you wire both the oil pressure and water temp. gauges to the cig. lighter? I understand how to install everything now that I have had time to think and look at the car, but I am not sure that I have the right senders. The autoparts store I go to sells mostly VW stuff, but the guy said that BMW senders are usually the same as the VW ones. Sound right? The thread on the oil pressure looks like the right size (part # 360 006). The temp. sender I know now won't mount where the bleeder valve is. The VDO part # for the temp sender is 323 088. It has a plunger looking thing on the top of the sender. How does the sensor wire hook up to this? I don't even see a contact place. Is this the type of sensor that has a tube going from the sender to the guage containing water? Thanks again. Ryan- > > I have a 325is so your e is probably different but since I installed > mine in the ctr console/ash tray area I used the wires going to the > cig. lighter for power and ground. > > Find out what the threads are on those VDO senders but my guess is > they're NPT (maybe 1/8-27). If so you'll need adapters. > > I mounted the coolant temp one in place of the stock one (since my > stock gauge is dead anyway) on top of the t-stat housing and the oil > pressure one in place of the stock pressure warning sender. Again this > required an adapter, I used a VDO one that I bought from BMP. The > stock warning sender gives you a warning at something like 7psi at > which case your engine is toast so I had no problems removing mine. > The light does not stay on if the connector is unplugged. > > Carlos > 98 M3 > E30 325is > > > > ____________________________________________________ > Start your day with Yahoo! - make it your home page > http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs > > ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 02:13:54 -0700 From: "J. Ochi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Cc: "Ryan Simmons" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, [email protected] Subject: Re: Gauges Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 08:03 PM 8/18/2005, Ryan Simmons wrote: >The thread on the oil pressure looks like the right size (part # 360 006). Oil pressure sender 360-006 is threaded with a metric M10 thread. Unfortunately, I don't know enough about the E30s to say whether this is the right thread to replace the original idiot light switch. This sender does have a contact for an idiot light - it triggers at 7 psi, just in time to tell you that you lunched the motor. So, you can replace the original switch with this sender (if the threads match, of course...), hook up the warning contact on the sender to the existing wiring, and run a new wire from the other contact on this sender to your new gauge. Ground on both the temp and pressure senders is through the sender housing, so the only wire coming off the sender is for the signal. >The temp. sender I know now won't mount where the bleeder valve is. The >VDO part # for the temp sender is 323 088. It has a plunger looking thing >on the top of the sender. How does the sensor wire hook up to this? The "plunger looking thing" is a contact that will slide into a .250" female spade connector. So, just crimp or solder a standard female spade connector (not a fully insulated one, though...but you can use a connector where the wire part is insulated, but the spade part is bare...) onto the wire going back to your gauge, and slide the connector onto the end of the sender. Just FYI, this sender is also threaded with a metric M10 thread. Hope this helps, Jim Ochi ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 07:31:22 -0700 From: John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Gauges Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Fri, Aug 19, 2005 at 02:13:54AM -0700, J. Ochi wrote: > At 08:03 PM 8/18/2005, Ryan Simmons wrote: > >The thread on the oil pressure looks like the right size (part # 360 006). > > Oil pressure sender 360-006 is threaded with a metric M10 thread. > Unfortunately, I don't know enough about the E30s to say whether this > is the right thread to replace the original idiot light switch. My e30 uses a straight metric thread on the sender. (not a pipe thread) I don't remember which size, but M10 sounds familiar. If you need, VDO also sells an adapter which converts to standard pipe thread. Or at least they did. -- "It is an honor to be Cookie Monster." -Sesame Street spokeswoman Audrey Shapiro ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 08:07:36 -0700 (PDT) From: Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: Gauges Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> -- John Bolhuis <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > My e30 uses a straight metric thread on the sender. (not a pipe > thread) I don't remember which size, but M10 sounds familiar. If > you > need, VDO also sells an adapter which converts to standard pipe > thread. > Or at least they did. I believe the stock sensors/senders are M12x1.5, at least on my car they are (coolant temp/oil press. idiot light). I had quite a fun time finding adapters. -Carlos. __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 17:41:35 -0500 From: Neil Maller <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: E46 323i control arm replacement? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> on 8/18/05 2:08 PM, Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Difficulty level of E46 323i (6/2000 prod. date) control arm > replacement? Compared to an E30/E36 control arm replacement? Pickle > fork and some cursing will do as far as special tools? More difficult: the E46 control arm is aluminum, so you have to be a lot kinder to it than the E36. No BFH, no profligately applied prybar or pickle fork, etc. Neil Fort Wayne, IN 96 M3 - Bastard child 03 525iT - Sterling Grey Metallic 77 MGB - Original owner, need to sell 05 Mini - Cooper S with LSD! ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 02:29:14 -0700 From: "J. Ochi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: E46 323i control arm replacement? Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 03:41 PM 8/18/2005, Neil Maller wrote: >on 8/18/05 2:08 PM, Carlos Lopez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > Difficulty level of E46 323i (6/2000 prod. date) control arm > > replacement? Compared to an E30/E36 control arm replacement? Pickle > > fork and some cursing will do as far as special tools? > >More difficult: the E46 control arm is aluminum, so you have to be a lot >kinder to it than the E36. No BFH, no profligately applied prybar or pickle >fork, etc. But if you're removing the control arm to replace it, you don't really have to worry about thrashing it. Go ahead and use the air hammer, pickle fork, BFH, whatever to remove the arm. Granted, using the correct puller to separate the ball joints does make the job much faster and easier, but if you don't have the puller, I'd say to go for it with the pickle fork and the BFH... I'd put the job pretty much on par with replacing the control arm on an E36. Jim Ochi ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 16:44:39 -0700 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] Subject: <E36> Tranny , motor interaction Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Question for those that might have had or have an e36 non-M and M. I just drove my son's 328 and it feels very different from the M3. That is it doesn't seem to do anything at less than 2,000 rpm and the throttle seems like it's in molassis until that point. Is this normal? Is there a process for greasing the throttle plate or cable? The other unfamiliar feel is that when shifting the rpms don't drop as in the M3 (which I think has a Dinan flywheel). Is this the interaction of the dual mass flywheel in concert with the clutch valve thingy of recent topical conversation? The car is otherwise solid and quiet and once it gets past 3,000 rpm it really wakes up and feels more torquey than the M3. I've read where the ICV can be cleaned out with Gunk Intake Medic without taking out the ICV. But the valve is buried under the intake, is one of the two tubes accessible by some means? Thanks. -Kevin ---------------------------------------------------------------- This e-mail communication is confidential and is intended only for the individual(s) or entity named above and others who have been specifically authorized to receive it. If you are not the intended recipient, please do not read, copy, use or disclose the contents of this communication to others. Please notify the sender that you have received this e-mail in error by replying to the e-mail. Please then delete the e-mail and any copies of it. Thank you. ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Aug 2005 22:19:46 -0700 (PDT) From: Brian Ruiz <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: <E36> engine pinging Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I had a Dinan chip and CAI in my car, but under load after the car was warm, it would ping like crazy. I assumed the Dinan chip was for a higher octane, because the pinging went away when I filled up the tank with higher octane race gas. However, since that gas is so ridiculously expensive, and because I was intending to anyway, I went ahead and picked up a Conforti intake and Euro HFM kit with chip. I swapped it all in last night/this morning, and although at certain rpm points the pinging has stopped, it is still pinging just as much at other rpms. I know that there is the anti-knock version of the chip, but before I go through the hassle of that swap process, anyone have any ideas? Should I change out the knock sensors? O2 sensors? Plugs? TIA, Brian 95 M3 __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 08:31:54 -0700 From: Rex Tener <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Cc: UUC Digest <[email protected]> Subject: Re: <E36> engine pinging Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> At 10:19 PM 8/18/2005 -0700, Brian Ruiz wrote: >I know that there is the anti-knock version of the chip, but >before I go through the hassle of that swap process, >anyone have any ideas? Should I change out the knock >sensors? O2 sensors? Plugs? Hey Brian, I am assuming you are already running premium fuel in this car. California premium? You might also want to check to see if the knock sensor is properly torqued. Does your car burn oil, maybe carbon build up on the top of the pistons. Why not just run race gas all the time. :-) I know, hardly the serious answer you were looking for. However, locally in the SF Bay Area, the difference between the hamster piss California premium and 100 octane gas is now just over/under a buck a gallon at my local 76. At the beginning of the year 100 octane gas was more than double the cost of premium at the same station. -- Rex Tener [EMAIL PROTECTED] ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 10:06:27 -0700 (PDT) From: "Jim Bassett" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [email protected] Subject: Re: <E36> engine pinging Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> On Thu, August 18, 2005 10:19 pm, Brian Ruiz said: > I went ahead and picked up a > Conforti intake and Euro HFM kit with chip. I swapped > it all in last night/this morning, and although at > certain rpm points the pinging has stopped, it is > still pinging just as much at other rpms. The Conforti chip is also programmed for higher octane, so your solution with the Dinan chip will be the same for the Conforti chip. Basically, it's an issue mainly here in CA, since what we got as "premium" is lower octane that most of the rest of the country's "premium". > anyone have any ideas? You can get a definitive answer by calling Josh at Eurosport, but IME the only solution is to mix in higher octane gas to bump up the octane of the tank of gas to eliminate the pinging. I do this all the time on the race car, but then it's fairly easy since just about every race track has higher-than-91 available. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - JimC SW & intake, pings occasionally 1993 325is #44 JP - JimC chip & intake, mixed octane at the track ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 11:20:46 -0400 (EDT) From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [email protected] (bmw list) Subject: Two questions... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I am comming up on my annual maintainance window and have two questions that I need help with. 1) I am planning on flushing my brake system (finally) and was curious what size and type tubing I should go find to slip over the bleed valve at the calipers so I can send the old brake fluid to a catch bottle. 2) I have measured and done the math and discovered that the oversize oil drain plug in my car is an M14x1.5 and that the M12x1.5 STI tap that would be needed to put an insert in is remarkably close to being M14x1.5... close enough that for a drain plug it will work [1]. The problem I have is that I can't manage to locate anyone that I can get an M12x1.5 Time-Sert from. Most places only stock the coiled wire style insert which I don't want to use here as I need the flat lip the solid inserts have to be sure the copper washer seals correctly. I have found a few places that claim to sell Time-Serts, but either they have no way to order, don't stock the metric sizes, don't stock the 1.5mm thread pitch M12, or have an amazing minimum quantity to order... Anyone have a good idea of where to order, beg, borrow, steal, or otherwise find one of these inserts? [1] Remarkably close in that the tolerance ranges for the two taps overlap. At the worst mismatch possible, the final threaded hole is either undersize by something like 0.02mm or oversize by something like 0.05mm. If this was a load bearing structure, I wouldn't risk it, but depending on the fit, locktite or one of the bearing retaining compounds will make up for the errors. -- Joe -- Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 11:13:24 -0400 From: "Gary Derian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, "bmw list" <[email protected]> Subject: Re: Two questions... Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> What is wrong with an oversize drain plug? I'd leave well enough alone. With an insert, I'd want the sealing washer to seal on the original pan surface, not the insert. That way is less likely to leak. Any hardware store clear vinyl tube should work fine, 1/4 inch ID seems about right. Gary Derian >I am comming up on my annual maintainance window and have two questions >that > I need help with. > > 1) I am planning on flushing my brake system (finally) and was curious > what > size and type tubing I should go find to slip over the bleed valve at the > calipers so I can send the old brake fluid to a catch bottle. > > 2) I have measured and done the math and discovered that the oversize oil > drain plug in my car is an M14x1.5 and that the M12x1.5 STI tap that would > be needed to put an insert in is remarkably close to being M14x1.5... > close > enough that for a drain plug it will work [1]. The problem I have is that > I > can't manage to locate anyone that I can get an M12x1.5 Time-Sert from. > Most > places only stock the coiled wire style insert which I don't want to use > here as I need the flat lip the solid inserts have to be sure the copper > washer seals correctly. I have found a few places that claim to sell > Time-Serts, but either they have no way to order, don't stock the metric > sizes, don't stock the 1.5mm thread pitch M12, or have an amazing minimum > quantity to order... > > Anyone have a good idea of where to order, beg, borrow, steal, or > otherwise > find one of these inserts? > > [1] Remarkably close in that the tolerance ranges for the two taps > overlap. > At the worst mismatch possible, the final threaded hole is either > undersize > by something like 0.02mm or oversize by something like 0.05mm. If this was > a > load bearing structure, I wouldn't risk it, but depending on the fit, > locktite or one of the bearing retaining compounds will make up for the > errors. > > -- Joe > > -- > Joseph M. Krzeszewski Network Operations > [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jack of All Trades, Master of None... Yet > Search the ARCHIVES:http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] > > > __________________________________________________________________________ > In memory of Michel Potheau - friend, enthusiast, founder of the BMW CCA. > > UUC Motorwerks - BMW Performance Fine-tuning and home of the Ultimate > Short Shifter - accept no substitutes! > 908-874-9092 . http://www.uucmotorwerks.com ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2005 11:48:40 -0400 From: Carey Probst <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], "[email protected]" <[email protected]> Subject: Power steering E30 ETA Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I have a minor power steering fluid leak and plan to replace the hoses first as they may be OEM. Any tricks I should know about replacing them? TIA Carey ------------------------------ End of [bmwuucdigest] digest(15 messages) **********
